2004 Toyota Prius Wheel Bearing Repair
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- čas přidán 27. 01. 2018
- Identifying very loud drive train noise and vibrations. Identifying and Replacing defective front hub wheel bearing assembly on 2004 Toyota Prius. IMPORTANT: Torque hubnut to 216 Nm (159 ft-lb)
Total time for the job: About 2-3 hrs for 1 side. Second side took me just under 1 hour.
Here are all the torque specs:
Wheel to wheel hub
103 Nm (76 ft-lb)
Ties rod end to steering knuckle
49 Nm (36 ft-lb)
Tie rod end lock nut
74 Nm (54 ft-lb)
Lower ball joint to control arm
89 Nm (66 ft-lb)
Front wheel hub to steering knuckle
56 Nm (41 ft-lb)
Front strut to steering knuckle
153 Nm (113 ft-lb)
Front lower ball joint to steering knuckle (castle nut)
71 Nm (52 ft-lb)
Front brake caliper to steering knuckle
109 Nm (81 ft-lb)
Front axle nut to wheel hub
216 Nm (159 ft-lb)
Well explained, your voice is well suited for the videos
Thx, been many years ago. I would do it different now I guess. Less of the hammering lol
Weekend warriers like us need to earn our tools. You certainly earned a few more tools with this job, good work! I'd start with a good set of jack stands, it's a scotty kilmer job with only a jack.
Thank you gothard Schiller for this video it will help me to do my own car when future wheel bearings needs replacement.most appreciated.
Great video! Very useful for me & my adventure replacing the wheel bearing on my '09 Prius. A couple pf things that this video does not cover:
1. The shield around the speed sensor in the back of the bearing. I removed this with only a little trouble by first removing the entire yolk/knuckle assembly, then gripping the shield with a pair of Vice-Grips and whacking on the yolk while holding the Vice-Grips.
2. I found this bearing was very, very hard to remove. My Prius grew up in Upstate NY State where there are awful road conditions for a few months a year. Salt, sand, snow, cold temperatures, etc. This puppy was STUCK, and hammering on it was pretty useless. Ultimately, I took the entire yoke/knuckle off & was able to put the assembly in my vice, pointing down. Being careful, the jaws of my vice would fit just between the bearing assembly and the knuckle. I didn't clamp down with the vice, just used it to hold the yolk, while beating on the bearing. I put the four bolts in most of the way then, using an impact socket to buffer the hammer blows, I whacked the heck out of the socket, one at a time on each bolt. This ultimately did the trick.
This bearing was far and away, the most stuck thing I have ever liberated. It was glued (corroded) in the yolk like nothing I have encountered. I practically soaked the thing in penetrating oil ahead of time and, after I got it apart, I could tell that the penetrating oil didn't touch the corrosion. It was super-stuck.
I tried heat and pressure, using a propane torch and fitting a small hydraulic jack between the hub bolts and the frame. These may have loosened the bearing assembly, but I'm not sure.
3. One thing I learned from this was to use some non-hardening sealant, and anti-seize compound to reassemble this puppy. I think that this was the fifth front-end wheel bearing I have replaced on my '09 Prius (220K miles) and I hope the next time is easier.
Thanks a lot! It made me decide to do this myself in stead of taking it to a shop.
Thank you for uploading the video. This will help me out when I need to replace mine.
For anyone doing this be sure to check for sticky front brake pads and assure your tires aren’t contributing to noise. I did mine recently and it helped but the other influencing factor was cupped tires due to worn struts.
Punch out the wheel studs, you can use a longer bolt with a nut to pry out the bearing, On my case it split the bearing in 2 which allowed me to lay it on top of a couple of 4x4 boards and hammer out the bearing. It would be more stable than holding onto the assembly and beating on it, In my case the bearing was really seized and it took a considerable amount of beating to remove, Good video,
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
Decent job! Very inspiring. However, everyone ! Please be sure to torque the bolts on the new hub and use jack stands so you dont have a nasty accident while beating on things.
Thanks for pointing out the jack stands and the torque. Both are very important details.
Good job. A suggestion next time, instead of whacking the wheel bearing with a sledge hammer, why not leave the cap bolts loosely in (unthreaded say about 1/4 inch) and then strike at the bolt heads with a drift punch. By alternating from one side to the other, you can then "walk" the bearing assembly out of the spindle hub assembly. You might also be able to do this while the spindle is still attached to the strut.
This way you don't have to do an wheel alignment at the end.
Cheers!
That's is a great suggestions. Thanks. I should finally get myself a press. Would make it much easier.
This method (sort of) worked for me. Nothing else did. I took the entire yoke /"knuckle" off & was able to put the assembly in my vice, pointing down. Being careful, the jaws of my vice would fit just between the bearing assembly and the knuckle. I didn't clamp down with the vice, just used it to hold the yolk, while beating on the bearing. I put the four bolts in most of the way then, using an impact socket to buffer the hammer blows, I whacked the heck out of the socket, one at a time on each bolt. This ultimately did the trick.
This bearing was far and away, the most stuck thing I have ever liberated. It was glued (corroded) in the yolk like nothing I have encountered. I practically soaked the thing in penetrating oil ahead of time and, after I got it apart, I could tell that the penetrating oil didn't touch the corrosion. It was super-stuck.
I tried heat and pressure, using a propane torch and fitting a small hydraulic jack between the hub bolts and the frame. These may have loosened the bearing assembly, but I'm not sure.
One thing I learned from this was to use some non-hardening sealant, and anti-seize compound to reassemble this puppy. I think that this was the fifth front-end wheel bearing I have replaced on my '09 Prius (220K miles) and I hope the next time is easier.
Very thorough, thank you, gotta do my gals "pretty lil" Prius. Keep her happy, and my wallet not so slim. Times is a gitting 'ruff out there..... Thanx guy..... You from up Jersey way?
Just did mine, I had to resort to a 6 ton press, but it is all corroded like that because that's what aluminum does when it contacts steel.
@2:29 "wow thats very loose, just how like it!" lmao
wheel bearing ez, dont take the hub off like he did, take the 2 thick bolts out and hammer out the axle then unbolt and hammer the bearing out, its E Z, dont take off the bottom castle nut or steering thing
Getting that bearing out is a SOB isn't it? Good work sticking with it. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Usually only if the car spent any time in the rust belt. You do get some corrosion being that they are two dissimilar metals (aluminum knuckle/steel hub). But nothing a mini sledge can’t persuade.
@@nordicpride9708 Chicago area car...that definitely qualifies for rust with all the salt on the roads.
At 38:30 you showed the ring. What is that ring for?
Machine that hub assembly seat face 3 thousandths over!
Good job in diagnosing & tackling problems with front wheels; some observations:
- you are a MONSTER & a force to recon with the mini sledge hammer!!! whack... whack... ; )
- dust shields mangled and all
- i normally liberally spray brake clean lubricant also helps in cleaning metal parts.
- normally liberally Spray lubricant to help loosen metal parts to unscrew
- are you ready to upgrade to a work bench & vice assembly?
- I noticed that you didn't use a jack stand to suspend your car; its only a problem when there IS a problem. - Loose front wheel causes can be of various causes:
- BEARING HUB. this is definitely the MAIN cause of your road noise, speed, pull.
- LOOSE AXLE NUT, you noticed that loose nut immediately off the bat when you unscrewed it off the axle. It normally is ~170lbs torque, you took it off with about 30lbs of effort. I assess that you did some work on that axle as of recent that caused it to relax its tension. Probably need lock tight the nut back to seat in.
- BALL JOINT. this also may cause your wheel to click
- nice looking Prius
- thanks for sharing your project
Yes, you are correct. Just know, I did spray the day before. And no, didn't want to come out. I have a press at my shop which I normally would have used. But the monster in me just wanted to get the job done. The axle nut did come off at less the 170. Great observation. If I remember right I may have loosened them before filming. Ball joints checked out. If you would have heard the extremely loud grinding noise you would have been shocked. I even thought there was something wrong with the drive train after replacing the loose left side and the noise was still present. After the repair was done I knew for certain in THIS case it had been the wheel bearings. But when I started I was about only 80% sure.
Thanks for the comments. I am aware that there are some more refined and elegant ways to do this job, no doubt. And thanks for reminding me for not becoming sloppy on the blocks. After all I had the jackstands right there.
Does it matter which brand bearing you buy
depends on how long you want to keep the car running well. If its an older car. no
@@gerhard5911 my Chinese mechanic use a jackhammer to loosen it up
Smash that cast aluminum!
I don’t think it should’ve been that easy to get the axle nut off
Did you ever get a metallic taste in your mouth after doing this job? Because I did. I used a simple dust mask. Should of used a better mask for the job.
Stroke probably
no, I didnt
You remind me of Donald Trump working on his constituents viewpoint. Great job