No Water, Low Pressure, Air in Water lines. Here's Why! #1 Troubleshooting video
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- čas přidán 27. 07. 2024
- Links to Common Water Well System Products
20 Gallon Bladder Tank amzn.to/3AarHhX
40/60 Pressure Switch amzn.to/3QyJMeO
Brass Tank T Manifold Kit amzn.to/3p89gUY
1/2 Hp 240v Pump 150ft Max Pumping Depth amzn.to/3zGY3iZ
Rubber Tape for Wire amzn.to/3vSR1GI
Wire Splice Kit amzn.to/3A7U68q - Věda a technologie
Can you tell us the proper steps to install a new pump and how to determine how many check valves to use.
1 check valve at the pump is all you need 90% of the time
czcams.com/video/iXSQg6LLwxY/video.html
Step by step installation. Many more well videos on my channel. Well Q&A Playlist
@@h2omechanic Thank you for the video and the reply. Sorry for this long-winded response, but thank you if you can assist me and anyone else in a similar situation. Trying to diagnose if it's a faulty check valve at the submersible pump or crack in well pipe at pump or on the line coming into house without pulling pump since we're still in the negative temperatures here in interior Alaska and 100 miles from the nearest well drilling specialist. Cannot see if there's any water spots on ground outside from well casing to the house, since we're under several feet of snow and ice for a few more months (usually thaws in April/May, with water not fully soaking into ground/evaporating until June/July). I can visually see the water rushing back down the well pipe via the whole house water filter with clear canister installed just after the well pipe that leads into crawlspace from underground (pre-expansion tank). The canister will drain down to less than 25% water and fill up with air approximately 75%. This happens after the water pressure drops from 50 down to 30 psi when using water and the pressure switch kicks on at that time. Pressure tank is set at 28 psi. There's a second check valve right before the expansion tank/pressure switch, so harder to diagnose since the gauge doesn't lose pressure over time because that check valve prevents pressure drop and is working. After the pressure tank water is exhausted and pressure is down to 28 psi the faucets start sputtering with air and spurts of water, and then several seconds later the water will rush back into the filter canister from the well pipe along with a bunch of air bubbles (delay of water filling canister). Once the water visually fills the filter canister again very rapidly, the water at faucets will continue sputtering before releasing brown sediment, and this takes approximately 20-30 seconds to clear up. Once the sputtering stops, a few more seconds pass before the sediment clears, and then the water is clear and the pressure tank starts building pressure again to 50 psi. This cycle repeats every time the pressure switch calls for water, and there has ALWAYS been water hammer once the pump cut off (the well pipe to crawl space will shake, and it has a foam "pool noodle" sleeve around it to deaden the noise). Been this way since we bought the home and didn't come up during inspection. Well and well pump installed 2019 when home built. Given the sediment that gets washed up every time, I was leaning towards a semi-educated guess/DIY diagnosis of a crack in the well pipe right above the pump, since that would create a water swirl that stirs up sediment that is getting sucked back into the pump and eventually the pump fills with enough water to overcome the air in the pipe and comes racing back up. After finding your video, now I'm wondering if it could be the check valve at the pump being bad. Again, sorry for the long drawn out reply/description. In your experience, has a bad check valve at the pump caused something similar? I.e. air in the well pipe, followed by sediment brown water before clearing again, only to repeat again, every time? Or do all signs point to a cracked pipe? Thanks again for reading. I know time is valuable.
@@h2omechanic I think my check valve is leaking so I'm going to add one just before the pressure tank. Will that usually get them to stop back leaking?
@@mickjager5974 no. Itll actually cause an air pocket to form in the line when the pump leaks down. Every morning itll cycle & send a small burst of air into the tank.
The only (half a$$) way to fix it easy is to add a check valve directly at the top of the well. But it still may cause the air issue, just less bc it takes the "trench pipe" out of the equation in regards to the drain back.
I'd consider it a band-aid, but 100% will stop the cycling. If you notice air during a shower or flush a toilet, now you'll understand why this happened.
In my opinion there is no one else on you tube who is as clear and concise as this young man when it comes to diagnosing well water issues!
Agree !
I subbed and rang the bell ...love the practical info for the novice ... I'm a 66 yr old retired builder who cut his teeth in the golf course irrigation business 40 years ago ... so I know a bit about wells and plumbing ... bought an old historic house to restore 6 years ago ... no info on well and the service guy never returned my calls with history ... 3 years later, no water one morning, simple diagnostic, 30 year old controller circuit board fried (Franklin 3 wire) ... simple fix ....then 3 years later, last week no water, controls good, pressure switch good ... both red and black (230 had power down into the casing) ... checked OHM reading for 1/2 hp, it was twice the specs, so bad motor ... called 5 well guys, only 1 returned my call (prior service guy) said he was booked out 5 weeks and said it would be $2,500 to pull and new pump ... so I looked at the dog the next morning and said, hey, we're going to be Well Guys ... eastern PA right on the Delaware River, 60 ft above it, so I know pump could not be that deep ... good quality sanitary seal, 1 1/4 poly with good brass fittings ... pulled the pump by hand, dog was no help and he's a 100 lb cart dog (bouvier des flandres) but he was supportive (from the shade) ... half way up (40 ft) I saw the wires were severely chaffed/open, corroded copper showing ... finally got the pump out and checked Ser # manufacture date ... 1987, 1/2 hp Franklin Electric with a Morris pump ... motor case was weeping rust .... Damn thing was 32 years old, 3 wire, red/black/yellow, wires were that old as well ... figured they didn't owe anyone anything (although house was a summer home for 60 years and empty for 20 of those last years before I bought it from their eastate (elderly couple) so it didn't have a lot of "run time" ... I did make up a double male garden hose and attached to my nice elderly neighbor next door, so I have water (I do a lot of "fixing and favors" for him and his wife, so he was glad to help out there .... so good news is I had watched all your well videos, so I ordered online, a good 3/4 HP Flint Walling pump and 100 ft of new 10 ga wire and WP splicing kit (local supplier only had 2 wire F&W's) ... and even found that 3M self sealing silicon tape on amazon (came today) got 6 rolls for $15 ... I was going to replace the torque arrestor and wire guards and rig a safety line until I watch your video ... and I agree, way too much stuff down a well casing to get stuck or go wrong ... So I'm only going with the pump, additional 1 1/4 brass check valve, and well taped wires (pump is at 80 ft, so easy to pull) ... Franklin controller was new 3 yr ago and well as new breaker/cut out switch, new pressure switch, pressure gauge and expansion tank, new spin down filter, followed by double GE Carbon filters ... all new Pex throughout the house ... anyway, long winded, but wanted to thank you for the tip on going with a "Clean" install without all the questionable "add on's" that could cause future trouble ... love that 3M self stick, self seal tape ... and I have 4 rolls of 3M Super "33" as well (your other tip) ... Pump and wire will be here tomorrow ... (I also took your idea and used an old cart wheel rim and build a small wood frame over my 5 ft deep well pit to support and guide the poly pipe on the way out (and back in) .. best of luck to you in your business ... you'll do well (no pun intended) with your logical and professional approach ...
I just bought a house with a well. I've always had city water, so wells are new to me. Thanks for posting such an informative video.
Finally found the Man to get down to problem shoots. This is my now go to channel!! Im so glad i found this channel.
Your channel saved the bacon for me today. Lost water pressure last night at 10pm, had it solved by this afternoon. Long story short, 280' deep, new pump and wiring
Happy to Help!
@@h2omechanic no doubt, your explanations were simple to understand, and the knowledge you shared saved me a couple thousand bucks I'm sure.. my brother is an electrician, so that helped some lol
All good to know. As a retired maintenance electrician, I appreciate the show and tell. The proof is in the failures.WOW! You know yer stuff.
I really enjoy your videos. I never knew how wells worked, were installed or repaired until you explained it. You do a great job. Thanks for your time.
EXCELLENT VIDEO ON CAUSES OF LOW PRESSURE. RARE VIEWS OF LINE FAILURES AT THE WELL PUMP.
I JUST pulled a Red Jacket 1/3 hp 230 volt set at 100 ft and it worked until 3 weeks ago..it's a 1973!!! Gotta be a record I'm in SW Missouri,love this channel!
Great video brotha very helpful. I have a junk check valve. Saved me from army crawling under the house for hours.
Thank-You! For your video!
I moved here 10 years ago. It’s a 30 year old house. We’ve been having air from all the water outlets for about 2 months.
When the weather is dry especially. When the weather is raining or moist there’s no problem.
I had a plumber out but he referred me to a pump company. The pump company did not respond to my email.
Your are videos are awesome. You have a natural talent for teaching. For years, I’ve tried to explain to people that great teachers are born, not made.
Thank you so much for such an informative video on the well pump itself, I found like a gazillion videos on the water tank and pressure switch but took me all day to find this. I was at my wits end trying everything I watched so now I am off to see if this is the issue.
I appreciate this video. I am replacing a pump. My expansion tank went bad and I have no idea how long it was bad. I pulled the pump, cleaned the screen sat the pump in a can full of water and let it run. It got a little better flow after a while but I didn't think how much should have been flowing. It was definitely no where near 5 gpm. Unfortunately I put it back down and got a little water pressure but never reached cut out. I just pulled it again this morning and I am heading to buy a new one. This video really helped convince me. I am kinda handy but people who do this had me believing it was something else. It is stranded wire so I feel the likelihood of a break was low. The pump is 18 years old. Thanks again
Once you pull it out again, just inspect the wire carefully looking for rubbed off wire coating/ exposed copper.
I have a well pump install video that would be great for you to watch. It's 20 minutes long but filled with great info.
Great video. Short and sweet, right to the point with good info. Thanks.
What a very informative video!!
Thank you SO much for your time. Your very helpful for many people. ❤️❤️🙏
Thanks Ang! I try my best
Very well explained. Thank you. When looking for well info, pump problem help..... this is a goto...
Subscribed
Very informative. Can you do a video of pulling the pump from the well? Thanks again for the video
Sure wish you were in my area. Great information. Thanks
Great explanation. Thank you.
Dear sir,
You are a brave individual, I would never be confident enough to offer diagnostics based on even my own uninformed anecdotal observations.
God Bless and best wishes.
Outstanding explanation! Thank You
Thank you for this educational your video has helped out diagnosing my well pump issue. Now all I have to do is pull my well pump. Thank you again
super informative ! thanks!
Awesome video man thanks for the help
Great video I would like to get an old well working again. It has a 4 inch cap with 2 PVC pipes & 4 bolts holding it.
Thanks! Now I know what to look for!!
Brass and 100+ psi poly, definitely 200psi poly for the bottom 200+ of a 400 drop. Check valve in the middle. On a long drop also use a 3 inch brass mpt to ins on the bottom of the pitless. Im in Ontario Canada though. So cool to watch your videos because its the same game depending on the landacape and geology.
As a well tech, these videos are great.
great info on some simple problems, even if it is costly! :)
That is great explanation and information. Will be asking questions of the well company! Thank you!
Thank you for this information, we just lost pressure at home. I checked the tank, swith and still no pressure went outside to see if something was visible and there was all the water around the well gushing out bringing sand out to the grass..
Great video! Thanks for the education. I am starting to think it's the pump at my house. I replaced the water tank initially, which said 1992 on the date of manufacturing, so was happy about the life out of that. Then I replaced the pressure switch with one with the arm on the side of it. That was a mistake overall, as i had to push the arm up and allow pressure back into the system. So I returned that and got a standard 40-60 psi switch yesterday, and it immediately went to 40psi. Thought that was the solution until pressure dropped again, ugh! So it gradually does build up, but the brand new switch does not kick on and off. I adjusted the range clockwise and it simply doesn't go up??? It's very frustrating. This AM, the pressure was good, although, a ton of air and sputtering coming out of showers for the first 20 seconds or so. The pressure was at 40 when I checked it, but now creeping back down to around 35 and convinced it won't build back up once again, and have the pressure switch cranked at least 4 full turns. Any help or feedback would be appreciated. Thanks again for the video.
I'm having the same exact problem at my house too :(
awesome great job
great video
Regarding your video titled, "Most Common Reasons For No Water" I would insert a comment at 10:42 while the system is being shut down. After turning off the power to the system, open a spigot and let the water run. Watch the pressure gauge drop to zero. If it does not read zero, then the gauge needs replaced. This caused a question for me because my pressure gauge never dropped below 30psi. Once I replaced the pressure gauge, the rest of the trouble shooting became easy. Thanks for some great explanation and instruction.
Thanks
Very Informative
Very informative thanks
hi i have a new pump and I moves it to a location closer to the well, and now when I turn it on it starts up fine until it reaches the cut off pressure.it shuts off and clicks right back on and then clicks off .clicks on. and the pressure drops while it does that but when it reaches the staring point it doesn't stay on may more it just keepa clicking on and off. untill i disconnect it wait a minute or so and when it's energized it starts again like before and repeats this cycle again. the pump is new about a month old. please advise if you have any idea of what is going on.thank you
thank you for your videos they are very informative, and easy to understand what you are explaining about the functions and operations of the pumps.i appreciate you taking time to help out folks.
Love your videos. We have an inline tank on our well , and have had the cabin water lines and hot water tank drained (with the well breaker off) for a couple months to prevent freezing. When I restart the system, should I do anything special, like turn the breaker on, then off, then on ,then off?
First of all I stumbled on your channel as a new homeowner on a well system and appreciate the video thus far. Installed a 60/40 pressure switch to step up the pressure from a 50/30. All was well for a week and I was enjoying the increase in pressure. One morning I noticed the pump running continuously when I woke up early. No water running or open faucets on in the house. Pressure stuck around 20-25 psi with the pump/breaker on. Once I turn off the pump at the breaker the water pressure drops off to 0 and I can hear running down hole. No obvious leaks above ground. No obvious (to me) pressure tank issues. So I guess I need to bring the ole pump up and inspect the piping/fittings/check valves down hole?
You are correct. Itll be a split pipe or cracked fitting.
I'm going to guess & say when you pull it out the pipe is going to be very thin. I00psi. Id replace it with 160-200 psi pipe. Either way your going in the right direction. My "Well Q&A" Playlist on my channel has 25 videos that will help you. Especially the install videos, step by step.
@@h2omechanic Much appreciated! Thanks for the willingness to express and share your experience and knowledge to folks!
@@h2omechanic hey just wanted to give you a quick update! Since your advice was so helpful. Line had a cracked fitting where my black roll poly pipe fit into a galvanized section. Got it fixed and now we have the best pressure and water flow ever! Big Props to you man! couldn’t have figured it out and fixed it for under $20 without the help! Thank you! Anytime you plan on coming to Texas, give me a holler!
Great video thank you can a jack hammer drive a two inch pipe and what is the smallest diameter submersible pump on the market today again a great video you can tell you are good at what you do in Michigan we have all kinda different water problems how far do u think a driven well can go
I have a well pump like you showed in this video and thank you it was informative. Can I leave that pump right where it's at and run an external pump in my basement? In other words instead of pumping the water i want the external pump to suck/draw the water from inside the house and using the same line. I have about 20 psi at the gauge so I'm sure it's either cracked or broke somehow.
Top video!!
Super helpful
Great video, thank you. Our hand-dug well is in a creek down a steep bank from our house. recently, the volume of water going through the system is less than half of what it normally is. The pressure is great for the first few seconds when you turn on a tap, but then it drops off very quickly. The creek is fairly low right now, but last year at this time we didn't have any problems. I'm thinking it could be a check valve issue but would appreciate any thoughts. thank you!
OK, nevermind! turns out our water filter is clogged. Thanks for the great video anyways :)
Been subscribed for a couple months, watched a lot of videos. Asked questions 2 - 3 times, didn't get any response. Will keep trying. 😊
1) Thinking to put pressure tank and connect to the pump about 10' under the ground to eliminate heating well house in the winter season. A) is it a good idea? B) how to do it? C) Should I install another pressure tank under the house in the crawl space? Well is about 30 yards away from the house.
Do all pumps come with a check valve, or is it something added in special circumstances? Second question, where is the bottom of the casing in relation to the pump? ie does the pump extend out the bottom of the casing, or is the pump protected inside the casing to prevent it from rocking and damaging itself or plugging up against adjacent rock and mud?
Thank you very much for the video. This is exactly what the problem with my well that you explained here. I have a brand new pump put in in March 2016. Two weeks ago new pressure. I thought it my be the pressure switch so I switched it and same problem remain. When I turned on the power the pressure would only go up to 10 psi. When I turned off pressure dropped to zero and I could hear the water flowing back down to the well.
I contacted the company that installed it and they are going to charge $3,000 to replace the pump. Therefore, in this difficult time I rather save some money, so will be diy. Do you have any recommendation for a good and long lasting pump currently out there in the market?
Great video @H2omechanic, what if there is no leakage along the pump but the pressure is still low?
GOOD evening thanks for your experience and time i have no water. How do I test the pump directly without it looping through the switch . I took it out of the well
best video i think i have seen
Hey Men thank you for your video exelent. Can you talk about solar pump please.
Hey thanks you're great. I'm getting a lot of air in the lines. It's probably the crack in the pipe? Or could it be a dry well? Check valve seem to be okay and pressures holding.
Could be a dry well if you've ran it out of water before . Typically it's not tho. A dry well is caused by a leaky toilet that ppl over look. If you find a check valve at the tank, or at top of well, that's why your pressure will hold. If the check valve in the pump is bad, or a split pipe, you'll get air, lots of sediment, higher electric bill, low water pressure at times.
Great description of submersible well pumps.
5 stars.
Where would you start with a house that is only pumping 35 psi?
The last time my well had poor pressure we replaced the pump and the water supply leading to the house was cracked.
The pump was fine.
Kill the breaker & look at the gauge at the tank, if it drops to 0 psi, you have a leak again somewhere.
If you wait 1 hour & turn the system back on and air eventually comes out of a faucet, that's an indication that the leak is down the well . Possibly a fitting cracked or a hole rotted in a metal fitting. Exactly like the pumps in this video
Thank you for your insight how bout the capacitor?
Hi hope your channel is doing well 3 years later. I am experiencing air in the water along with tonight I was walking by the well head and air was shooting out of the weep hole on the small pipe next to the well head itself. We have I believe the farm style well with a pressure tank mounted just below the surface of the ground. The pressure will spike when the water is shut off to 80 psi then drop quickly with poor flow. ( contacts pop on and off if the tap is opened before the iron curtain). I have replaced the float several times but have not prefilled the air in some time. Would low air pressure in the tank cause the weep hole to spout for a good long time.
For the last 15 years I've been running a Berkeley L20P4GMGS 2hp 20gpm pump I have had no problems or issues to date. My question is with the newest soft start pump coming out what would you recommend for a replacement. I was thinking using the same pump but with technology these days it makes it had to decide which quality pump a individual should purchase.
Last year my pump ran fine. This year, none of the zones would come on. The pump is running and the hydrant at the pump discharges water but with very low pressure. I can put my thumb on the hydrant and stop the flow. I bought a cheap pump two or three years ago and I’m wondering if I got what I paid for. When it turn on my system, all the heads dribble water. Kind of at a loss here. Think the pump wore itself out?
Just got a new house and i've got some air in my lines. Pitless adapter. Age and type of pump unknown. Owner had notes written that originally said water started 4 foot down, well is 45 feet deep. I popped the cap and looked down the well and the water isn't 4 foot down, probably more like 30-40 feet. That's got me a little concerned. From what I could see in the well it looks like a wack/bad install job in general so tomorrow i'm pulling the pump to take a look. The pressure tank is also on the older side so i'm replacing that just as a preventative measure to protect the pump. Pump works well, good amperage, good pressure. Lines are just sputtering often and it's got me a little concerned something is about to fail.
I pulled my pump . Found several little holes on the first stick of pvc. Being told I have a bladder or a tank .I haven’t yet found either. It’s a old homestead I own. Well was already there and now wanting to build
I have a 1hp 10gpm Goulds set @200' in a 380' hole with water starting around 100'. The other day I noticed it would no longer build over 40psi, therefore constantly running. (We're cutting off with the breaker) I'm going to pull it up for troubleshooting but do you think I should buy a more powerful pump?
Installed in 2011, 60gpm per report....tons of iron in our aquifer too.
The age of your pump is right in line with its life expectancy.
Don't buy a bigger GPM pump.
My suggestion would be a 5GPM or 7 gpm 1Hp. They are designed to provide water from deeper levels like you described. They'll provide more than they say but in theory they are geared lower (impeller designed differently)
What your experiencing is worn out impellers that can't build pressure anymore.
I'd install a 3/4hp 5or7 gpm pump. It will work better & you won't notice any difference in volume or pressure
Could I have pressure issues from a bad starting/run capacitor? My pump is just running and running but the tanks aren’t filling up. I opened a valve and it pumps water so after seeing your video maybe it’s strong enough to pump water up but not enough to pressurize the bladder .
Hi amazing video. Our pump pumps up to 20 psi when I turn the breaker off it does not drop down it just stays at 20 ; when I open the Spicket at the well it drops down to zero when I close the Spicket it goes back up to 20 what do you think the problem might be ? Thank you so much for your help !
Sounds to me like the pumps old & worn out or possible cracked pipe in well. Or a leak in yard or under home. If u find no leaks, the pump needs to be pulled out of the well
Thank u for ur videos.. ur awesome. My pump, bladder, and switch was installed in 07, myer pump... bladder and switch is bad, house has no water pressure, should I assume pump is bad as well
Yea, 15 y/o is roughly max life span for every major part. Replace the tank & switch & then see if it'll run. If not, then pull the pump.
Amazing video, great job, subscribed! I have air coming into the house water lines only after I haven't used the water for a while, like overnight, and only when it first comes on. If I keep the water flowing, like when outside water my plants, I don't have additional air in the lines (even after the pump kicks on again). Thinking this might be a crack in the well pipe which allows air in while the pump is at rest (water leaking out over time), perhaps somewhere above the water line. Does that make sense to you? I plan to pull the pump and check. Thanks for any advice.
Your on the right track! It's probably not a crack...but could be. It's typically a leaking check valve in the pump. If you have a check valve at the tank or at the top of the well, then that ones holding pressure back & the one in the pump is leaking slowly. If the pumps old, just replace it honestly. Or if it's less than 8 years old, add a check valve on top of your pump & re install! Your definitely in the right direction!
@@h2omechanic This is SO helpful. Thanks for being so generous with your expertise and time! Pump is about fifteen years old, so time for a change!
Happy To Help!😊
Very helpful, I have been having air, low pressure in my water, mostly in the hot for whatever reason, I had a plumber come out, he said it was the Well, I called a Well company they said it is inside the house and that there was nothing wrong with the well, to call a plumber, I called another plumber they said it was the water heater, switched it, still have the same issue, came back today says its likey the connections from the well to the house. They are coming back Monday to run pressure test on the connection, what do you think, So far I have spent $1700, still have the problem. I was quoted $450 for the test on Monday.
I have shorts on the issue on my channel for reference.
My house has an older well where the pump and pressure tank is in a closet(above ground). I have somewhat reduced pressure, it seems to be somewhat irregular have intermittent drops in pressure. Occasionally there will be air in the line. Any suggestions on where to start?
@h20 mechanic I got an issue. Deepened my well 1 yr ago and still having issues. Pumped silt and sand for 6 mo. Still a little comes through. Pump 30ft off bottom of well. Had the well line replaced a month ago now can not keep enough pressure to run the yard sprinklers. Took switch apart clean and functioning correct, gage says pressue 55-75 pump kicks on and off. I have 4- 70 gal pressure tanks and all new 2" pex for everything b4 comes into house. Sprinklers T off b4 running into house? 5 horse 3phase pump at 190ft? What could be reason I am not maintaining water pressure?
Hi. Really helpful video. Thanks.
My pump is not connected to any thing. Just an on off switch and we fill tanks and jugs manually, as the fixtures in the house were removed. We.bought a fixer upper . I noticed the pump in the ground began surging after about 5 minutes. Do you think i should pull her up?
I can't help you. There's too much that you could be missing for the system to operate correctly for me to go over. My suggestion is watch my videos on my channel. Find The Well Q&A Playlist
Hey h2o mechanic! Been watching a bunch of your videos. We have a scenario where we are sitting around 16psi, pump is drawing 6amps constantly, pressure tank won’t fill. It’s a submerged pump and popping the top we see water about 15 feet down (previous professional had mentioned well was drying up, which doesn’t make sense). We are unsure if this is pressure tank problem, pump problem, or possible well issue. Any thoughts on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
Hey I been researching to buy new line for the well water supply 200 psi.. well to pressure tank where can I buy and what type of line or brand name thanks…
Can an above ground pump be used where an old one was removed from down inside the well?
So what kind of feed line should be used if pvc has a potential to crack. Very good video.
We use Black roll pipe with metal fittings brass or SS. Pvc is fine for Very deep applications, but does get brittle with age.
I have trouble with my well pump. Somehow, the pump shorts out and doesn't get electricity when it is hanging normally. The pump comes back online only if I pull up the wire maybe a foot up, therefore making the wires tighter. At that pulled up position, it works fine until my iron removal system regenerates/backwashes... I had two companies stop by, and they just offer to replace the well pump which will cost ~$10,000. Do you have any suggestions on troubleshooting this? Thanks so much for your expertise and your time!!
Hey champ! Thank for your videos. I am looking to buy pump, so just want to brand would you recommend? Thanks
Goulds, Simmons, Jacuzzi, j-class.
What is a good pump for small diy well?
Can you tell me where I can get the jacuzzi deep well pump? I'm in East Texas and want this to last. I have searched the internet but can't seem to find that brand. We have a 700ft well and they say the pump is around 350. I have checked the Franklin box it seems to be ok. When I flip the breaker the over load pops.
Hello my parents have wx202xl astrol a year ago outside. The well goes up to 60 and I lose pressure which affects my sprinkler to go on?
Is the check valve same as the bleeder valve? Cuz my irrigation well pump has a bleed valve as well as a dole valve. The dole valve has reduced rhe pressure, but none the less I had some volume last time I used it before late fall. Yesterday I turned on the pump to irrigate and have a volume of a garden hose flow with hardly any pressure. It pumps 24 hours without any delay, but maybe 2 gal/ min. Do you think the well has droped? There is only one well driller in our area and he is swamped.
My 1st question to you would be is it in above ground jet pump or a submersible pump. You might have a cracked drop pipe like a few in this video.
The check valve is not a bleeder valve. Bleeders are used with older galvanized tanks.
Hi am Julian and thank you for this video. My Franklin water cylinder have no pressure and the motor cylinder gets hot when switching ON. Please help me.
Thank you for the video. Before I take the pump out, if there any way to tell if my well is dry? I live in Texas and we haven’t had any rain in months
If its dry, it'll be Too heavy to Lift by hand. You can drop an ice cube down the well & listen to hear it hit the water, every second it falls is 20ft. Once use a ice cube (not a rock) ice melts.
Pump was replaced a year ago and has a sand filter attached. It would easily fill my 40 gallon, or so, tank from 35 to 50 psi in about 3 or 4 minutes. Now if it take 5 or 6, but if the pressure gets down to about 10 if I’m filling something, it likes to never fill back up. This evening is hovered around 10 psi for several minutes before I cut the switch and cleaned one of the two above ground filters and fired it back it up. That let it get over the 10 psi mark but it took about 20 minutes to get to 50 psi.
Sounds like the well doesn't have enough water in it to fill the tank. Leave the breaker off all night & see if it helps. If it helps, look for a leak somewhere. Or call a well company bc you might need a Hydro-Fracing process done on the well to increase flow rate of the well.
If any filter is plumbed before the tank, that most likely the issue. All filters go after tank.
@@h2omechanic I’ll call the guys that set it up. It has two filters pre-tank. One on the pump that’s about 6 feet long, one going into the tank and one coming out. The set up was replaced in June of 2020 but it had also been replaced one year prior. They warrantied the whole thing and that was nice. The pump is at 653’ and the SWL was at about 40 a year ago.
Hi there. So my pump has shot off the end of the line a few times we changed the fitting to a metal one and now there's no water so we replaced the switch. Still nothing so now it's pulled out and I'll look at all the pipe and wire but it shows power to control box and the switch. It's only 30 feet and the pump was changed in September of last year.
Ok I need help my pressure switch burned up so I just replaced it and now I can't get any pressure to the house only when I add air to the bladder tank and it will only get up to 10 pounds.I replaced the pump 2 years ago and the bladder tank last year .Any Idea what could be my issue or issues?
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What pump you recommend for a 3 H.P. 40 G.P.M. three phase ,Drop pipe is 1-1/4" pump depth is 180 Ft
I have a pump with good pressure tank, air in pressure tank is set at 38lbs. Installed new switch 40/60. Installed new gauge. Pump will come on and run for a minute or two, then pressured starts to drop till there is no water. Then about 5-10 minutes later pump will come back on and run again for two minutes. New gauge will never read above 35lbs, even if water is off. What would cause this? Undersized pump? Broken line in well? Need some help before I pull pump and replace. Any suggestions? Thanks
Great video…having an issue with ours and need a little advice. Replaced tank (was water logged) and pressure switch (they had a 30-50 on a 40-60 tank) and it’s still not like it used to be. Pressure never gets high enough to shut off, and I think it’s been this way for a couple of months. This is a second home for us, so all we noticed was a significant increase in the electric bill. I think it’s just run itself to death.
You probably have a leak down the well on the drop pipe.
@@h2omechanic thanks…that’s what I’m thinking now as well. We had that freeze here in TX two years ago, and it probably made everything more brittle. I think the same is true for pressure tank…probably plasticized the rubber. When I replaced the tank, it was full of water. Pressure will hold at 10 psi after power is off, so probably a small split and pressure equalizes at that point.
@@h2omechanic I can’t say thanks enough for all the great info and content! Would never have tackled this one without your insight. My problem was actually the pump…not sure, but think maybe torque is what caused top cap to bend and that is where the leak was coming from. New pump, proper wiring and wrap, added a torque arrestor, and when powered on, pressure immediately banged up to 60+ and is now working like a champ! Did it all on a cold, sleeting TX night Thursday, but wasn’t that bad overall. Really appreciate the video content and you helped us get things back to normal. Keep up the great work!
My circuit breaker keeps tripping in about 2min time even though I tested the breaker, replaced the pressure switch and I believe the tank is still good. I would appreciate any thoughts that you might have. Thanks in advance!
My water pressure is good as soon as you turn on the faucet, but slowly gets weaker and weaker. I am pretty sure the bladder and pressure switch are good. What do you think?
Hi there got a question ok my son runs off a well he has low water pressure and needs to prime his system to get it running again then he has normal pressure would you know what is the cause of that
We have a deep well pump, when my wife starts shower, I hear water and what sounds like air surging in lines as well, possibly sounds like cavitation. Using pressure washer is surge of water, wait for pressure to build then more water. Don't know what pipe we have, seeing your broken pipes, was a help. The motor torque twists the lines. We hv high rust, don't know how old pump is.
Hello, maybe six months ago we had an issue with our tank. So I replaced the tank (replaced it with a bigger tank from 20gallon to 32gallon) and while at it I decided to replace everything else around it (pipes, pressure switch and control box). I remember it doesn’t take very long for it to build pressure from 30psi up to 50psi (maybe 10-15 seconds). Now the issue I am having is it taking longer to build pressure (a few minutes at least). It is now to the point that I can’t even fill up the tub without going back to the pressure switch and turning that lever to get it going again. Is it my pump causing this issue now? My pump is 1/2hp, my pressure switch is 30/50 and my tank size is 32gal. Any advice will be a great help and appreciated! Thank you!
Id say since you have a 30/50 switch, your tank being new its likely got too much air in it. Kill the power,drain all the water pressure to 0. Then check air on top w pressure gauge. It needs to be 25-27psi no more. If it is above 30, then you'll know that you found the issue
Good video 💪🏽. My problem is that the water line always has air when I turn the water on. Is that evidence that I need to install a new pump? ( it used to happen only when I turned the breaker off/on. I would notice a lot of air and grit coming out of the faucet)
Pull your pump out & look for a cracked fitting connection between pump & pipe or a cracked pipe. I bet 90% sure you'll find it. Or there's a bad check valve in the pump. It can leak down & trap air in the pipe. But this can only happen if you have another check valve at your tank or at the top of the well.
Personally, id pull it out, look for the crack, and still replace the pump. The year is stamped on pump motor. If its 8+ y/o just replace it.
I have air coming out of the water hose installed before the pressure tank , I just replaced the well pump about three months ago, the pressure gauge stays at the same pressure, not loosing any pressure. Just air coming out of the water hose at different times.
I bought one of the junk lowes pumps. A little over a year and pressure it only around 30. I don't think it's cracked though. Seems to hold ok. Drops a tad when I turn it off but that might be from the pressure tank pushing back at such a low pressure. I keep finding weird plastic shavings floating on top of the water. It's got to be from the pump. But my water keeps having weird pulp in it that looks like orange juice pulp. And sometimes I get this stuff that looks just like dryer lint. Some other things, just weird stuff coming up. The water looks clear though. I can't imagine where it could be even coming from. I thought perhaps a cracked septic but I don't think it could make it that far over and through all the dirt and rocks. So bizarre. Unless the last owner who were addict's and trashed the place had thrown something down there. But the cap was on and it looks like it hadn't been off in ages. But who knows, maybe something from decades ago was dropped in there.
I have plenty of filtering after the pump so lets hope a new high quality pump does the trick and doesn't break like the last one.
The 10 impellers are made of plastic and Teflon coated. They rotate at 3450rpm. The impellers were coming apart and that was the shavings you saw. It worn out the tolerance and couldn't build pressure anymore. Typically a failed bearing happens often in cheap brands & the impeller stack starts wobbling & rubbing & not running true. It's all too common. That's for your comment! It helps others with similar issues.
@@h2omechanic I ended up buying a more expensive American made pump. I put it in myself. Dang that was rough pulling up 120 feet of water filled line and pump myself!! This new pump is drastically better quality. Made from Lots of metal instead of cheap plastic. I think the bearing did fail on the last one and it shaved off a lot of the impeller and probably the weird stuff coming up was from shavings from the sides or something. Everything working great now. I'll always pay more for a good pump, not worth it to take a chance. I didn't even want to buy the cheap Lowes pump I knew that would bite me in the rear, but I was new in town and needed one fast and hoped for the best.
I’m having a issue where my pump won’t give me the same GPM when I turn my hose bib on I get good pressure and after the pressure switch kicks in the pump does not give me the constant pressure like it can’t keep up slows down also and takes pressure from the house to nothing I have a grizzly red jacket pump 1/2 HP 120 volt pump. Installed new 20 gallon tank and 40/60 pressure switch also any ideas I know this is a lot
I enjoyed your video, but you didn't so a solution for my problem. I pulled my pump, it was only 100 ft of pipe. I placed the pump in a kitchen garbage can full of water and turned the pump on. Water went everywhere, it was coming out between the stainless steel housing and built-in castiron check valve on top of the pump. I'm thinking there is an O-ring that went bad. The stainless steel housing has threads inside so I'm assuming it will unscrew from around the pump. Is that right? It's a 3/4 hp Gould pump and has 3.4 - 3.5 resistance from line 1 and line 2. No shorts. Look forward to your response.
Hey H20 Mechanic! Great Video. We have an issue with our well where after about 5-10 minutes of running the water our water pressure goes down drastically. Approximately 25% of normal water pressure. We have a feeling the water pressure tank is not getting filled quickly enough and runs low and we getting poor flow rate from well. We have lived in the house for about 16 years. The well was drilled before we moved in. I have replaced the well pump about 12-14 years ago. We had folks come out this week and replace the water pressure tank because the pressure gauge was not functioning correctly and they told me the bladder in the water pressure tank was faulty.. The new water pressure tank did not correct the low pressure issue. So I am thinking perhaps a problem with the well pump or possibly the well itself. We live in the NE and are still in a drought. Any suggestions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Depth of well & depth of pump would help me determine the issue properly.
1st it sounds like the water level is low in the well & runs out of pumpable water mid way thru. Possibly a leaky toilet in the house thats draining the well slow but 24/7 . So inspect toilets carefully!!!
Secondly. 14 years is at the service life of the pump, its time for the motor to die (bearings fail inside) or the pump end could be worn out inside (impellers) & not allowing pressure to build.
Turn off well breaker and wait 60 minutes and see if the pressure on the gauge drops to 0. It should hold steady if no water is leaking out.
@@h2omechanic Thanks so much for the information. We are having someone come out next week to check the well - depth of well, depth of pump, flow rate etc. I am hoping it's the pump. The well guy who is coming out does not think it's the pump. At this point, it makes sense to replace the the well pump in my opinon. We also had our neighbors drill a new well this summer which is around the timeframe we starting having issues. At that time we were in a draught and thought the draught was the issue for the low water pressure. I will try you recommended test today and let you know what happens.
Update!!! The well pump was faulty and replaced. In addition the flex tubing was replaced due to manganese build up. The good news is that there is plenty of water in the well
Great news! Thanks for your update!
@@josephecannon reading this I was even worried for you that the neighbor was taking to much water. But that's good news
Hi. My pump is a Tesla Ideal 2 and every few days or so it stops and come out with the code OL which means over load. We have pull the pump out and it doesn’t have that valve to stop the water coming back into the pump. Please advise if possible. Thanks
Buy a Simmons Check valve and put it on top of the pump. 1.25"x1"brass
If its a new pump hopefully it's still good.
Typically a OL happens & the motor is dying, so if the pumps old, replace it.
I stay away from Tesla stuff imo. I'd buy a Goulds or J-class or Grundfos. If the Pump has a Franklin Electric motor on it, it's Quality! Cheap pump have short lives & don't lift from very deep. I did a Video on Amazon pumps showing just that.