Excellent step by step demonstration. Just completed this service today and went smoothly. Much faster on the second side of course. I used the small VW tool to spread the housing but I think it bears mentioning a small but important thing; Turn the tool until it sits 90 degrees from vertical. It will wedge itself in place and then you can go about removing and/or replacing the strut from the housing. I bolted everything together below before installing the upper strut bolts, which made it easier for me. I could use a floor jack to lift the whole assembly into place. One other thing: if you have a large impact gun, turn the steering wheel right or left to improve access to the strut bolts. Simple! Thanks again for creating this how-to video 👍🏼
How did you manage to line up the cup/knuckle and slide the new strut in? I’ve been spending four hours with no luck. I can’t seem to get the nuckle to sit straight enough to be able to slide the strut in it
Appreciate the video, but you completely skipped the hardest part which is lifting the entire strut assembly and screwing a bolt in from the top. Tricks for this would be greatly appreciated.
Can you give advice on what differences I should be aware of when doing the same maintenance to a 2004 GTI VR6, MK4? I intend to replace the shocks and springs mostly because it will be opportunistic maintenance when I replace the control arms. The maintenance will be more involved but considering that the shocks and springs are original with 118K miles on the car, the time to replace the shocks/springs is when I replace the control arms. Finally, is there a suggested interval for replacing brake lines?
The OEM 17" wheels had slightly oversized tires which filled in some wheel gap but took away torque by changing the gearing. The aftermarket 16" wheels were significantly lighter and the 215/55 tires put gearing and ride quality (taller sidewalls) exactly where I want it. The spring rate and my damper (koni FSD) are in a sweet spot where you can go from firm but comfortable to very firm and responsive by changing the tire/wheel + damper setup.
myturbodieseldotcom, I got a quick strut set and it did not come with arrows on the top for installation so I don't know if the directions is correct. I install them with no problems. would it affect alligment if the top of strout is not pointing the right direction? thanks for help.
I didn't notice the arrows on the upper strut when I did this, so it's probably mounted incorrectly with my luck. Right after i replaced the strut on the left side, the tire on the opposite side started to rub against the wheel arch liner when i turn the car far to the left (roundabouts for example). I didn't have the time to replace both sides at one go. I replaced the right side at a shop a few days later, but the tire still touches the wheel arch... Is this a typical consequence if the strut is mounted incorrectly according to the arrows? Thanks in advance for any replies!
I'm not sure it can be installed wrong. Not 100% sure but I don't think the bolt holes are all equally spaced. You can tell by looking underneath for the nub that he shows at 9:16 opposite the arrows
old post and older video but might help someone looking today, there are 3 axle bolts on the market and the procedures differ. the oldest bolt has 6 sides and a washer, was 200nm + 180 turn, second was 12 sided with ribs underneath 70nm + 90 turn, third is a 12 sided with no ribs back to 200nm and 180 turn. without a decent 3/4 or 1 inch breaker and socket you'll never get a 180 turn even if you're built like the mountain from GOT, your half inch foot and a half breaker bar will just flex, or you'll shear the drive head, or split a cheap chrome socket.
My only grief with this video is the fact that you pointed the compressed spring at your face. Keep the ticking time bomb pointed away from your face and other people. Other than that nice job, man.
Figured it out by rewatching but I broke the stud, so I had to rip the boot and apply vise grips to keep it from spinning. Now I cant figure out how to get the strut all the way in, I tried using a jack carefully. Also no idea how far into the cup the strut is supppsed to go besides looking at the other side
@@seandonnelly3150 There is a 5mm allen or sometimes a splined inside to the roll bar link bolt. you hold it still with that. The strue goes in until it pokes out a few mm at the bottom of the hole. There is actually a small ledge that it rests on. Take a look when the old one is out.
Excellent step by step demonstration. Just completed this service today and went smoothly. Much faster on the second side of course. I used the small VW tool to spread the housing but I think it bears mentioning a small but important thing; Turn the tool until it sits 90 degrees from vertical. It will wedge itself in place and then you can go about removing and/or replacing the strut from the housing. I bolted everything together below before installing the upper strut bolts, which made it easier for me. I could use a floor jack to lift the whole assembly into place. One other thing: if you have a large impact gun, turn the steering wheel right or left to improve access to the strut bolts. Simple! Thanks again for creating this how-to video 👍🏼
So glad I found this, helped me out of a right pickle! Thank you! :)
Awesome video, using the same process for my Audi A3 Quattro
Thanks for the video after all this time it's still helpful.
Why does every video skip the reinstall of the strut? It's like those two hours are cut from the video and it's magically back in...
Because every one struggles with it and don’t want you to see
Excellent Video. Great picture quality and clear instructions. You should be a teacher.
Another good video Chitty, the forum has gone crap since you sold it, the TDI Wiki doesn't show now
How did you manage to line up the cup/knuckle and slide the new strut in? I’ve been spending four hours with no luck. I can’t seem to get the nuckle to sit straight enough to be able to slide the strut in it
great video, thank you
Thanks for thee great vid! Can you provide the product code list for the for the strut mount, bearing, and bumpstops?
Well explained bravo bra
Appreciate the video, but you completely skipped the hardest part which is lifting the entire strut assembly and screwing a bolt in from the top. Tricks for this would be greatly appreciated.
How are those Kony FSD?
How much better are they then the OEM ones?
Do you need wheel allignment after spring change? I made everything according to your tutorial and it seems i need a wheel allignment
this helped a million
Can you give advice on what differences I should be aware of when doing the same maintenance to a 2004 GTI VR6, MK4? I intend to replace the shocks and springs mostly because it will be opportunistic maintenance when I replace the control arms. The maintenance will be more involved but considering that the shocks and springs are original with 118K miles on the car, the time to replace the shocks/springs is when I replace the control arms. Finally, is there a suggested interval for replacing brake lines?
thanks mate. any instructions or springs for lift (no lowering, I want higher). Cheers
Where's your bottom spring rubber pad sitting on the strut?
You don't need to remove the axle to get the strut out though...
I have the same exact car, and the bottom coil of my spring just snapped on the front driver side.
Mkv GTI here, same thing, same spot. Front driver spring broke about 5 inches from the bottom.
@@cooldrew689 MKV tdi but front passenger
Do VW not use a rubber spring seat between the spring and the damper?
No
Hi I have 420nm impact wrench is that good enough for golf mk5 gti front suspension work
Thanks very much
Great tutorial and very much appreciated. Out of curiosity, did you went from the oem 17" rims to aftermarket 16" ones?
The OEM 17" wheels had slightly oversized tires which filled in some wheel gap but took away torque by changing the gearing. The aftermarket 16" wheels were significantly lighter and the 215/55 tires put gearing and ride quality (taller sidewalls) exactly where I want it. The spring rate and my damper (koni FSD) are in a sweet spot where you can go from firm but comfortable to very firm and responsive by changing the tire/wheel + damper setup.
myturbodieseldotcom,
I got a quick strut set and it did not come with arrows on the top for installation so I don't know if the directions is correct. I install them with no problems.
would it affect alligment if the top of strout is not pointing the right direction?
thanks for help.
T
I didn't notice the arrows on the upper strut when I did this, so it's probably mounted incorrectly with my luck.
Right after i replaced the strut on the left side, the tire on the opposite side started to rub against the wheel arch liner when i turn the car far to the left (roundabouts for example).
I didn't have the time to replace both sides at one go.
I replaced the right side at a shop a few days later, but the tire still touches the wheel arch...
Is this a typical consequence if the strut is mounted incorrectly according to the arrows?
Thanks in advance for any replies!
I'm not sure it can be installed wrong. Not 100% sure but I don't think the bolt holes are all equally spaced. You can tell by looking underneath for the nub that he shows at 9:16 opposite the arrows
You don't have an air impact or electric impact?
So what is the correct torque procedure for the 12 point axel bolt? I can't seem to find it on the website in the description.
the axle bolt he used, the torque for that is 70nm / 52ft/lbs + 90 degree turn
old post and older video but might help someone looking today, there are 3 axle bolts on the market and the procedures differ.
the oldest bolt has 6 sides and a washer, was 200nm + 180 turn,
second was 12 sided with ribs underneath 70nm + 90 turn,
third is a 12 sided with no ribs back to 200nm and 180 turn.
without a decent 3/4 or 1 inch breaker and socket you'll never get a 180 turn even if you're built like the mountain from GOT, your half inch foot and a half breaker bar will just flex, or you'll shear the drive head, or split a cheap chrome socket.
How do you skip half the video where’s the re install
Any tips on one of the lower control arm bolts spinning freely?
If there's a nut on the other side... use a wrench on it and breaker bar on the closer one??
Didn’t show releasing the old spring
My only grief with this video is the fact that you pointed the compressed spring at your face. Keep the ticking time bomb pointed away from your face and other people. Other than that nice job, man.
On mine. The control arm would not go down.
GTI Racer Seth same I’m stuck on this step because I cannot get the control arm down and I can’t get enough room to remove the strut because of it
How do you undue the sway bar link, most asian cars you can keep it from spinning with a wrench on the backside
Figured it out by rewatching but I broke the stud, so I had to rip the boot and apply vise grips to keep it from spinning. Now I cant figure out how to get the strut all the way in, I tried using a jack carefully. Also no idea how far into the cup the strut is supppsed to go besides looking at the other side
@@seandonnelly3150 There is a 5mm allen or sometimes a splined inside to the roll bar link bolt. you hold it still with that. The strue goes in until it pokes out a few mm at the bottom of the hole. There is actually a small ledge that it rests on. Take a look when the old one is out.
Does it drive anybody else nuts that the engine starting up at the beginning isn’t a diesel?
so uh does this apply to my 2.5L mk6 golf? or? its a 2013 btw.
Yes
There's no need for the chalk mark. The breaker bar will instantly tell you where you left off.
All this to replace a strut another step backwards for Volkswagon !
رسول أبداه ميرسديس 250
VWs are such junk cars with a lot of headache
To much talking