Just wanted to show that Alclad chrome can be a reliable paint finish even without a clear coat if you prepare your parts carefully and paint in the proper conditions.
This is so helpful, thank you for all of the info! I'm working on my 2nd Mando build but this is my first time attempting the Beskar finish. I'm feeling alot better going into the process now. Much appreciated :)
Yes, yes that does help! I can’t tell you how many projects I have done and forced myself to be satisfied with the results because I thought I had to clear coat Alclad. Unfortunately Alclad changes hue when you clear coat it with there Aqua gloss. Now that I know this trick I’m all for it.. thank you so much
Glad the vid is helpful! Some people will coat with a water based clear first because a lacquer will etch the chrome finish. You can use Alclad Aqua gloss or Liquitex gloss varnish or Createx clear. Then use Spraymax2k on top
@@pandapropsncostumes that what I normally do. I normally use Aqua Gloss but it change is the Hugh of the chrome after it dries a little. And I only do that because I thought you had to for durability. But seeing this video I’m happy that I won’t have to do that using your method
Thanks bro for the info. Great work. I'm doing a Bandai mandalorian kit with soft goods. I need to buy a compressor for my airbrush. But I was told by a representative from a local hobby shop that Alclad will destroy any cheap airbrush which I got mine for $40. So I'm not sure which way I'm going to paint it.
It depends on the type of airbrush that you have the reason why They probably mentioned that there might be damage is because Alclad paints are lacquer based. So you have to use a lacquer to clean the airbrush. Depending on the type of airbrush, whether it's a single action or double action or siphon feed, some of the fittings or o-rings inside might be made out of a cheap material and lacquer can soften or dissolve those materials. On higher quality airbrushes those parts are just made to a higher standard and can withstand stronger solvents like lacquer thinner. I generally don't paint costume parts with a dual action airbrush. It's kind of pointless because you don't need that sort of fidelity or control for medium to large pieces. For a lot of my props, I've actually used a single action Paasche H airbrush probably for over 20 years and I've put everything through it including lacquers water based enamels you name it and it's still going strong. I've never replaced a single part in it. You might want to look into that one. They're not very expensive and they are tanks
Fantastic amazing finish! two questions: 1) what is the point of putting the two coats of clear over the black before spraying the Alcad crome? what happpens if you just put it straight onto the black 2) Will a clear coat change the lovely finsh you've go if you put that ontop? Thanks you so so much
The clear on top of the black evens out the black for a smoother finish and gloss clear is self levelling when applied properly. This gives a glass like finish and actually allows some light to pass through the chrome and produce an almost refractive effect on the light. This is what gives the chrome its reflectivity. If you skip this clear over the black, it will result in a bright aluminum look but it will not be reflective like chrome. If you are applying clear coat over chrome it must be done properly. Do not spray clear gloss lacquer over the chrome as it will etch they chrome finish. You need to do an intermediary coat with a water based clear such as Alclad Aqua gloss or Liquitex clear. Then apply a clear coat on top. The best clear would be a 2K automotive clear that requires an Hlvp spray gun or you could use 2K in a spray can from Spraymax which mixes the two components before you spray, but the contents must be used within a day.
@@pandapropsncostumes Thak you so much mate. really appriciate you getting back to me. all the best and thanks again. Will look into the waterbased clear coat layer. Thats a invaluable piece of advice. very clever x thanks for letting me pic your big brain lol
just ordered my first airbrush and the AlCladd chrome. Do you need to cut the AlClad to thin it or is it good straight out of the bottle for getting that Beskar look. thanks
Thanks a bunch, just got a resin fiberglass set, about to prep it for paint. Need a compressor, but I have a Iwata Eclipse brush (gravity fed), will that be ok?
P.Grenier Sand your print with 180/220 grit. Clean it off. Fill big gaps with bondo (less shrinkage and stronger than glazing putty). Fill small seams and area where there were supports with glazing putty. Sand these filled areas with 220 grit. Spray two coats of Duplicolor filler primer. That’s just my personal brand preference but I like that it is compatible with most other brands and has a good finish. Sand with 400 grit. Sand until you see that the valleys are filled with filler primer but the peaks of the print lines are visible. Spray two coats, sand with 400. Spray one coat, sand with 600. Spray final coat of Duplicolor regular sandable primer. This will reveal any mistakes. Sand or fill as needed. One last coat of sandable primer before your top coat color.
Hi, I'm restoring an old steel bike where I'm having a buddy re-do the decals (one such decal on it is Reynolds 581 100% Chrom-Molly Tubing) but now the new vinyl badges will say 100% Beskar...LOL...he's a great graphics designer, my head badge will say "THIS IS THE WAY". Any how, I stumbled across your video. I have stripped, sanded, filled some nicks/dings and re-sanded and now have 3 sanded coats of Dupli-Color's automotive primer fully off-gassed and cured. I'm ready for a top coat and I was just going to use Dupli's Auto Engine Enamel with ceramic in a cast iron color and probably just leave it as it (sort of a semi-gloss) I rarely don't like to clear coat as it just makes for more work and touch up is harder if needed later. Any how, I love this and really want to get a weathered Beskar look. So tell me if this is a good route: 3 light coats of Dupli Automotive Gloss Black enamel, then a 4th good medium coat...let dry and off-gas for about 2-3 days...then wet sand, clean and apply 3 medium coats of Dupli automotive clear gloss enamel, wait for the last/3rd coat to get to that tacky state as you said, then using a small detail HVLP sprayer spray the alclad chrome. I just don't know how much chrome to lay down and I also don't know how to produce the weathered look esp. with 3 coats of clear under the alclad? Alclad is enamel based and not lacquer, correct? Any suggestions here? Thank you for taking the time to produce this video.
Sounds like a cool Project! Alclad is lacquer, so I wouldn’t use any enamel based paints underneath. I would go with lacquer all the way through. Eg: Duplicolor sandable hot rod black primer, Duplicolor gloss clear acrylic lacquer, then Alclad. You don’t need to wait forever for lacquer to cure. I generally avoid enamel products if possible unless it’s small details, I may thin Testors enamels with lacquer and airbrush them
@@pandapropsncostumes ah darn...appreciate the feedback, but I think I'll stick with Dupli's Engine Enamel with ceramic for durability (it's been tested on bike frames as a very viable coat next to a well-done powder-coat job. It doesn't need to bake any at high temps to set which is good vs. some that actually require the metal to get hot.) The lacquer is just going to cost more, be too much of a learning curve for me and certainly not be as durable. Now what I can do is they have a dark-like graphite engine enamel with ceramic, maybe I could lay that as a base, say 3 light coats...let it dry for 3 days...wet sand...then lay a few light coats of this cast iron color and some how before it sets up use a chip brush or something to burnish the bike frame joint areas to give those areas a look as if they have been worn some from wind friction around them? IDK? Maybe I should just stick to cast iron color and be done?
I 3D printed the smaller rounds and molded and cast them. You can get metal ones from JJ Industries. Yes, Alclad comes in a can but it doesn’t spray as well as an airbrush
@@pandapropsncostumes yea I just purchased 2 4 oz bottles but i need to look into the smaller rounds i printed a few making them thinner but lost the length
I haven't tried the airframe aluminum yet, but I have tried Alacad aluminum, the lexan version, and their other metal / chrome colors. I think the key is the clear coat over the black. The chrome lays very thin, and I think the light goes through the chrome and clear, kind of a refraction effect and then the black gives it the depth. I have done the same technique using Alacad chrome over grey and white and the chrome is "brighter". I have painted over grey and black without the clear and it looks like aluminum. I think the best look for the Mandalorian is the darker chrome look. Even on the screen used helmets, they use Alumaluster which csost about 3X the cost of Alclad - but the point is they don not paint the helmets with 100% opacity on the chrome. They spray it with about 65% opacity. This gives the darker look. I see people paintignt heir helmets full chrome all the time and it doesn't look right. The mandalorian is not Captain Phasma bright chrome. Its darker. :) I think this Alclad approach is good mainly due to cost and that it's readily available in most hobby shops. I'd like to try Alumaluster but I havent had the chance to and shipping is expensive to where I am.
@@pandapropsncostumes thank you so much for the detailed explanation, and so promptly as well! Thanks for the advice, I think I definitely put the alclad on too thick, the airframe aluminum ended up turning out more on the phasma-y side of color. Will probably redo it with that in mind!
I dont know how you do it! I used alclad Polished Aluminum and it comes right off cant even touch it much I need to try alclad Chrome now to see if its different
2 questions hopefully not dumb ones. 1. Why not 2K ? I see you're getting great shine without it. Others swear 2k is only way to get good chrome. 2. If you clear coat to that level smooth finish and then silicone mold. Can you jump straight to the chrome stage when you pull it out ? Or better to mold a 400.level then clear every new pull ?
M ML Good questions! I often do stuff for film and TV. I don’t always have the luxury of time to spray 2K even though I am set up for it. Duplicolor in a spray can is faster to apply and cure than 2K especially for smaller pieces (breadbox sized or smaller). I could mold and cast or paint in the mold, I’ve done that before. But for this build I’m not molding or casting parts for sale, this is my personal build. There’s also the cost of molding and casting and I usually determine up front i need to do that for myself or a client. This video was made mainly for people that are 3D printing their own parts and painting them. Hope that helps!
@@pandapropsncostumes That really does thank you. Did I understand correctly, its possible to 2k coat a mold before casting?? I've heard of RC car people doing something similar but never really knew the term or method.
M ML I’ve pre painted the insides of molds before casting before, I’ve done it many times. I primarily use lacquer based paints because they dry faster in the mold. Also note that not all mold materials take paint well. I have not used 2K paint in a mold as the spray guns are often too big to spray into a typical mold I might use. I have airbrushed lacquers but not 2K. My fear would be that the 2K takes too long to dry and may cause drips inside the mold. But again I’ve never tested this. It would be safe to prime the inside of the mold and then use 2K as the final paint over the primed casting
Calvin Yung in the video you can see the shoulder which I kind of rushed for a convention. I chased the coats of primer, top coat and clear all in a couple hours and I didn’t get to sand the black very smooth. That’s why it’s not fully reflective. I also used a water based product called Fine Finish to smooth the print but it’s not as smooth as it would be compared to standard filler primer. But take a look at that Chirrut staff topper and the round charges, they are quite reflective because I spent a little more time prepping them.
I have a lacquer question. I thought you weren't supposed to paint lacquer over lacquer? And duplicolor gloss black and clear gloss are acrylic lacquer, so is that why it's ok to paint alclad over acrylic lacquer? Because it's acrylic lacquer and not just lacquer?
You can totally paint lacquer over lacquer. You should NOT paint lacquer over enamel or enamel over lacquer (although some say you can, its risky). The issue is that lacquer has a stronger solvent than enamel but it cures and "flashes" or gasses off faster than enamel. When you lay a strong solvent over enamel, it can soften and melt the enamel, casing wrinking etc. This is compounded when people are not patient and don't let paints fully cure. They will continue to off gas and cause a chemical reaction, ruining the paint. Sometimes the opposite can also ruin paint when enamel is painted over lacquer. Its still a solvent and since it can take a long time to cure, it can soften the lacquer underneath if its not fully cured. I have done this somewhat succesfully int he past, but I generally do not bother with enamel paints any more. Also, I don not use Rustolem as their paints use a solvent that takes FOREVER to off gas and cure, which makes it very difficult to top coat, even 5-7 days later. I hope that clarifies things!
@@pandapropsncostumes ah, well now it makes sense. Great advice, thanks for taking the time to teach me something new! That explains why my Rust-Oleum primer seemed to bubble up under my base coat on some EVA foam armor I made. I only gave it a few hours to dry in Florida humidity, not fun. I have my duplicolor gloss black and gloss clear one the way with some Bondo filler primer and alclad. Now to decide whether to clear coat the top. I picked up a new Created ULVA high gloss paint from SprayGunner that people have said is close to a 2k...
Would you be able to brush this on? I'm looking for a good chrome paint to use on action figures and everything I find is either a spray or an airbrush.
@@pandapropsncostumes i dont have an airbrush right now or a compressor, am i good if i buy an airbrush of around 30$ and a small compressor that can output 30 bars?
Nope, not in any of my prop work. Probably used it for over 10 years the same way and it never has rubbed off on me. If you watch the full video, I even demonstrate trying to rub it off, it doesnt come off
@@pandapropsncostumes that is crazy because I used alclad chrome ii a tone myself and mine rubbed off of every single piece just by rubbing my fingers across.
This is so helpful, thank you for all of the info! I'm working on my 2nd Mando build but this is my first time attempting the Beskar finish. I'm feeling alot better going into the process now. Much appreciated :)
This looks great T took your advice and grabbed a pascha airbrush so i can use this method for future silver armor props. Keep up the great vids.
The Bossk Thanks!
Love the info redoing my beskar armor
Yes, yes that does help! I can’t tell you how many projects I have done and forced myself to be satisfied with the results because I thought I had to clear coat Alclad. Unfortunately Alclad changes hue when you clear coat it with there Aqua gloss. Now that I know this trick I’m all for it.. thank you so much
Glad the vid is helpful! Some people will coat with a water based clear first because a lacquer will etch the chrome finish. You can use Alclad Aqua gloss or Liquitex gloss varnish or Createx clear. Then use Spraymax2k on top
@@pandapropsncostumes that what I normally do. I normally use Aqua Gloss but it change is the Hugh of the chrome after it dries a little. And I only do that because I thought you had to for durability. But seeing this video I’m happy that I won’t have to do that using your method
Cool video..thanks for the demo!! This is the way!
Trey Eversman This is the way!
Have you tried any of the other shades from Alclad ? This one looks amazing, I was just curious if you did, how they turned out.
Beautiful.
Thanks bro for the info. Great work. I'm doing a Bandai mandalorian kit with soft goods. I need to buy a compressor for my airbrush. But I was told by a representative from a local hobby shop that Alclad will destroy any cheap airbrush which I got mine for $40. So I'm not sure which way I'm going to paint it.
It depends on the type of airbrush that you have the reason why They probably mentioned that there might be damage is because Alclad paints are lacquer based. So you have to use a lacquer to clean the airbrush. Depending on the type of airbrush, whether it's a single action or double action or siphon feed, some of the fittings or o-rings inside might be made out of a cheap material and lacquer can soften or dissolve those materials. On higher quality airbrushes those parts are just made to a higher standard and can withstand stronger solvents like lacquer thinner. I generally don't paint costume parts with a dual action airbrush. It's kind of pointless because you don't need that sort of fidelity or control for medium to large pieces. For a lot of my props, I've actually used a single action Paasche H airbrush probably for over 20 years and I've put everything through it including lacquers water based enamels you name it and it's still going strong. I've never replaced a single part in it. You might want to look into that one. They're not very expensive and they are tanks
Very nice looking armour. 👍🏾🤤
Great vid. I’m about to start a mando suit. I can’t figure out if I should rub n buff or Alclad. Is that Alclad alc 107?
Andrew Barrett yes it is :)
Fantastic amazing finish! two questions: 1) what is the point of putting the two coats of clear over the black before spraying the Alcad crome? what happpens if you just put it straight onto the black 2) Will a clear coat change the lovely finsh you've go if you put that ontop? Thanks you so so much
The clear on top of the black evens out the black for a smoother finish and gloss clear is self levelling when applied properly. This gives a glass like finish and actually allows some light to pass through the chrome and produce an almost refractive effect on the light. This is what gives the chrome its reflectivity. If you skip this clear over the black, it will result in a bright aluminum look but it will not be reflective like chrome.
If you are applying clear coat over chrome it must be done properly. Do not spray clear gloss lacquer over the chrome as it will etch they chrome finish. You need to do an intermediary coat with a water based clear such as Alclad Aqua gloss or Liquitex clear. Then apply a clear coat on top. The best clear would be a 2K automotive clear that requires an Hlvp spray gun or you could use 2K in a spray can from Spraymax which mixes the two components before you spray, but the contents must be used within a day.
@@pandapropsncostumes Thak you so much mate. really appriciate you getting back to me. all the best and thanks again. Will look into the waterbased clear coat layer. Thats a invaluable piece of advice. very clever x
thanks for letting me pic your big brain lol
Rust-oleum not so good. I agree...lived in Seattle and messed up a bunch of paint jobs
Humidity and lower temperatures and Rustoleum don’t mix. I don’t use it at all. I prefer Duplicolor and Montana, they are so much better!
just ordered my first airbrush and the AlCladd chrome. Do you need to cut the AlClad to thin it or is it good straight out of the bottle for getting that Beskar look. thanks
Shake it good, pour it right into the airbrush. Always test the flow on a scrap first. Light dusting passes. Good luck!
Fantastic video, may I ask where you got the files for the shoulders?
The name is escaping me at the moment but I recall I got some of my files from Great Ape Studio Art
Thanks a bunch, just got a resin fiberglass set, about to prep it for paint. Need a compressor, but I have a Iwata Eclipse brush (gravity fed), will that be ok?
Yes that should work fine. Good luck! This is the way :)
@@pandapropsncostumes this is the way
What «grain size» of sand paper tu use on the initial pre-primer sanding?
P.Grenier Sand your print with 180/220 grit.
Clean it off. Fill big gaps with bondo (less shrinkage and stronger than glazing putty). Fill small seams and area where there were supports with glazing putty.
Sand these filled areas with 220 grit.
Spray two coats of Duplicolor filler primer. That’s just my personal brand preference but I like that it is compatible with most other brands and has a good finish.
Sand with 400 grit. Sand until you see that the valleys are filled with filler primer but the peaks of the print lines are visible.
Spray two coats, sand with 400.
Spray one coat, sand with 600.
Spray final coat of Duplicolor regular sandable primer. This will reveal any mistakes. Sand or fill as needed.
One last coat of sandable primer before your top coat color.
Hi, I'm restoring an old steel bike where I'm having a buddy re-do the decals (one such decal on it is Reynolds 581 100% Chrom-Molly Tubing) but now the new vinyl badges will say 100% Beskar...LOL...he's a great graphics designer, my head badge will say "THIS IS THE WAY". Any how, I stumbled across your video. I have stripped, sanded, filled some nicks/dings and re-sanded and now have 3 sanded coats of Dupli-Color's automotive primer fully off-gassed and cured. I'm ready for a top coat and I was just going to use Dupli's Auto Engine Enamel with ceramic in a cast iron color and probably just leave it as it (sort of a semi-gloss) I rarely don't like to clear coat as it just makes for more work and touch up is harder if needed later. Any how, I love this and really want to get a weathered Beskar look. So tell me if this is a good route: 3 light coats of Dupli Automotive Gloss Black enamel, then a 4th good medium coat...let dry and off-gas for about 2-3 days...then wet sand, clean and apply 3 medium coats of Dupli automotive clear gloss enamel, wait for the last/3rd coat to get to that tacky state as you said, then using a small detail HVLP sprayer spray the alclad chrome. I just don't know how much chrome to lay down and I also don't know how to produce the weathered look esp. with 3 coats of clear under the alclad? Alclad is enamel based and not lacquer, correct? Any suggestions here? Thank you for taking the time to produce this video.
Sounds like a cool
Project! Alclad is lacquer, so
I wouldn’t use any enamel based paints underneath. I would go with lacquer all the way through. Eg: Duplicolor sandable hot rod black primer, Duplicolor gloss clear acrylic lacquer, then Alclad. You don’t need to wait forever for lacquer to cure. I generally avoid enamel products if possible unless it’s small details, I may thin Testors enamels with lacquer and airbrush them
@@pandapropsncostumes ah darn...appreciate the feedback, but I think I'll stick with Dupli's Engine Enamel with ceramic for durability (it's been tested on bike frames as a very viable coat next to a well-done powder-coat job. It doesn't need to bake any at high temps to set which is good vs. some that actually require the metal to get hot.) The lacquer is just going to cost more, be too much of a learning curve for me and certainly not be as durable. Now what I can do is they have a dark-like graphite engine enamel with ceramic, maybe I could lay that as a base, say 3 light coats...let it dry for 3 days...wet sand...then lay a few light coats of this cast iron color and some how before it sets up use a chip brush or something to burnish the bike frame joint areas to give those areas a look as if they have been worn some from wind friction around them? IDK? Maybe I should just stick to cast iron color and be done?
where did you find the thinner ammo rounds and great job by the way.And do they make alcad chrome in spray cans??
I 3D printed the smaller rounds and molded and cast them. You can get metal ones from JJ Industries.
Yes, Alclad comes in a can but it doesn’t spray as well as an airbrush
@@pandapropsncostumes yea I just purchased 2 4 oz bottles but i need to look into the smaller rounds i printed a few making them thinner but lost the length
Would you advise using airframe aluminum over chrome? How'd you get the chrome a little bit darkened?
I haven't tried the airframe aluminum yet, but I have tried Alacad aluminum, the lexan version, and their other metal / chrome colors.
I think the key is the clear coat over the black. The chrome lays very thin, and I think the light goes through the chrome and clear, kind of a refraction effect and then the black gives it the depth.
I have done the same technique using Alacad chrome over grey and white and the chrome is "brighter". I have painted over grey and black without the clear and it looks like aluminum.
I think the best look for the Mandalorian is the darker chrome look. Even on the screen used helmets, they use Alumaluster which csost about 3X the cost of Alclad - but the point is they don not paint the helmets with 100% opacity on the chrome. They spray it with about 65% opacity. This gives the darker look. I see people paintignt heir helmets full chrome all the time and it doesn't look right. The mandalorian is not Captain Phasma bright chrome. Its darker. :)
I think this Alclad approach is good mainly due to cost and that it's readily available in most hobby shops. I'd like to try Alumaluster but I havent had the chance to and shipping is expensive to where I am.
@@pandapropsncostumes thank you so much for the detailed explanation, and so promptly as well! Thanks for the advice, I think I definitely put the alclad on too thick, the airframe aluminum ended up turning out more on the phasma-y side of color. Will probably redo it with that in mind!
So do you airbrush this stuff on? Or do you use a brush?
You use an airbrush
How much would you say is needed for the full armour? Thank you!
Sorry for the late reply. I did my helmet with 3/4 of an ounce. So I would say 5 ounces should do it for a full Beskar set
I dont know how you do it! I used alclad Polished Aluminum and it comes right off cant even touch it much I need to try alclad Chrome now to see if its different
It’s all in how you prep the coats underneath :)
@@pandapropsncostumes I went right down to the shop and tried your prep work. I will give it a few hours and test it out :) thank you for the video
@@LonelyWolfJ no worries, let me know if it works. If you need help, I’m happy to lend advice :)
2 questions hopefully not dumb ones.
1. Why not 2K ? I see you're getting great shine without it. Others swear 2k is only way to get good chrome.
2. If you clear coat to that level smooth finish and then silicone mold. Can you jump straight to the chrome stage when you pull it out ? Or better to mold a 400.level then clear every new pull ?
M ML Good questions! I often do stuff for film and TV. I don’t always have the luxury of time to spray 2K even though I am set up for it. Duplicolor in a spray can is faster to apply and cure than 2K especially for smaller pieces (breadbox sized or smaller). I could mold and cast or paint in the mold, I’ve done that before. But for this build I’m not molding or casting parts for sale, this is my personal build. There’s also the cost of molding and casting and I usually determine up front i need to do that for myself or a client. This video was made mainly for people that are 3D printing their own parts and painting them. Hope that helps!
@@pandapropsncostumes That really does thank you. Did I understand correctly, its possible to 2k coat a mold before casting?? I've heard of RC car people doing something similar but never really knew the term or method.
M ML I’ve pre painted the insides of molds before casting before, I’ve done it many times. I primarily use lacquer based paints because they dry faster in the mold. Also note that not all mold materials take paint well. I have not used 2K paint in a mold as the spray guns are often too big to spray into a typical mold I might use. I have airbrushed lacquers but not 2K. My fear would be that the 2K takes too long to dry and may cause drips inside the mold. But again I’ve never tested this. It would be safe to prime the inside of the mold and then use 2K as the final paint over the primed casting
I mostly see people having a mirror finish for using Alc107 , how come yours doesn't? Is that the yo your non drying clear coat method?
Calvin Yung in the video you can see the shoulder which I kind of rushed for a convention. I chased the coats of primer, top coat and clear all in a couple hours and I didn’t get to sand the black very smooth. That’s why it’s not fully reflective. I also used a water based product called Fine Finish to smooth the print but it’s not as smooth as it would be compared to standard filler primer.
But take a look at that Chirrut staff topper and the round charges, they are quite reflective because I spent a little more time prepping them.
@@pandapropsncostumes I actually want it to be less mirror for some application, good to know I can unsmooth the black to make it dull🙂
which specific alc is this that you used?
Scott Brandeburg ALC 107 for plastic :)
i couldnt find your specific duplicolor gloss clear is there a chance u have a link to it?
This is what I use repaintsupply.com/dupli-color-dal1695-acrylic-lacquer-clearcoat-p6123.html
@@pandapropsncostumes thx this helps alot
@@pandapropsncostumes Is this available in Canada? Any Local places in Vancouver you recommend? PS love your videos!
What kind of paint do you use for the gloss black? Is it also alclad? Or is it another kind of paint?
I found your other video where you explain . Alclad has a dark chrome, have you ever used that?
I use Duplicolor gloss black or even Duplicolor hot rod black sandable primer. I use Duplicolor gloss clear Acrylic lacquer. Then the Alclad
I just use their regular chrome. You can modulate how reflective you want it based on how many coats you put on
I have a lacquer question. I thought you weren't supposed to paint lacquer over lacquer? And duplicolor gloss black and clear gloss are acrylic lacquer, so is that why it's ok to paint alclad over acrylic lacquer? Because it's acrylic lacquer and not just lacquer?
You can totally paint lacquer over lacquer. You should NOT paint lacquer over enamel or enamel over lacquer (although some say you can, its risky).
The issue is that lacquer has a stronger solvent than enamel but it cures and "flashes" or gasses off faster than enamel. When you lay a strong solvent over enamel, it can soften and melt the enamel, casing wrinking etc. This is compounded when people are not patient and don't let paints fully cure. They will continue to off gas and cause a chemical reaction, ruining the paint.
Sometimes the opposite can also ruin paint when enamel is painted over lacquer. Its still a solvent and since it can take a long time to cure, it can soften the lacquer underneath if its not fully cured. I have done this somewhat succesfully int he past, but I generally do not bother with enamel paints any more.
Also, I don not use Rustolem as their paints use a solvent that takes FOREVER to off gas and cure, which makes it very difficult to top coat, even 5-7 days later. I hope that clarifies things!
@@pandapropsncostumes ah, well now it makes sense. Great advice, thanks for taking the time to teach me something new! That explains why my Rust-Oleum primer seemed to bubble up under my base coat on some EVA foam armor I made. I only gave it a few hours to dry in Florida humidity, not fun. I have my duplicolor gloss black and gloss clear one the way with some Bondo filler primer and alclad. Now to decide whether to clear coat the top. I picked up a new Created ULVA high gloss paint from SprayGunner that people have said is close to a 2k...
How is it durable? I've used Alclad and it turns black after touching it. Whats your secret?
IRMAO CUSTOM MODELS Watch the video, I explain the technique I use and it’s fine for durability
How do you weather the Alclad chrome paint??
I usually use water based acrylics on top with no problems. See my other videos on weathering
Would you be able to brush this on?
I'm looking for a good chrome paint to use on action figures and everything I find is either a spray or an airbrush.
Can u do a tutorial for it all the costume
Not rey that’s a bit difficult as the costume is mostly done but I can do an overview for sure :)
@@pandapropsncostumes can u do a tutorial for how to apply the paint like yours in the video plz
would 1 bottle do for a mando helmet
Yes I painted mine with 3 coats and used a little over half of a 1oz bottle. A full set of beskar armor takes 4-5 bottles
@@pandapropsncostumes i dont have an airbrush right now or a compressor, am i good if i buy an airbrush of around 30$ and a small compressor that can output 30 bars?
Okay! Sheesh!
it does rub off a lot though.
Nope, not in any of my prop work. Probably used it for over 10 years the same way and it never has rubbed off on me. If you watch the full video, I even demonstrate trying to rub it off, it doesnt come off
@@pandapropsncostumes that is crazy because I used alclad chrome ii a tone myself and mine rubbed off of every single piece just by rubbing my fingers across.
the paint is too thick. chrome is reacting to you chrome paint losing its shine