Good idea but one thing I would've done differently is cut up some jack stands for the supports. That way they would automatically lock when raising it.
Allen McKinney that is actually a great idea, but normally that would require a lot of ground clearance to begin with. try and watch the video fram safe jacks and you'll notice that the vertical bars are mounted at the end.
Wow that's a pretty slick homemade invention. Even with a unibody front wheel drive car, there are more than enough suitable areas to put a jack underneath it. I think it's sad that some people don't know that and end up tearing up the rocker panels on their car. Hats off to the guy who made this though.
You are on to something, first off to the experts the sheer strength is well over 20,000 lbs each bolts . They will never fail under a car. The welds may look ugly but they too are mig welded and better than grind offs from China. Clamp jacks increase pressure over load and you are relying on a hardened cog and a weld to support the load. The bolts will outperform the clamp on any day. I have a suggestion. Make the unit smaller and use one extension. Find 4 points under the car and make legs that hinge down with no height adjustment . bolt unit to the frame and don't weld it . Now you have stands bolted to the car and hidden from view. All you need is to jack it up and fold down the stands. Good work on the prototype :D
Enough nay sayers,.....I am making a ride on mower workstand and your idea for lifting it off the ground is exactly what I needed. I will incorporate some of what you did, thanks for sharing this!
You have to be careful when jacking on the pinch weld flange. Some cars have weak rocker panels and will bend upward when you jack on them. Another factor to consider is older cars where the rockers are rusted, they can totally cave in.
Thanks for the idea, can anyone share a dseign for the new improvement that should be stronger and accident proof. So a crocodile jack is also essential in puttin up this support? Thank you very much. Henry Ruiz. Thè Philippines.
I like it very much!, these doubters obviously haven't done much jacking! The main problem it solves is there's only one place you should support the car! so you can't put the axle stands in the correct place...because that's where you put the jack. The car I have just bought has had the stiffening ridge folded flat by either garages or home mechanics using axle stands in the wrong place!
Personally I never Jack up my car or support it by the jacking points, I always use suspension mount areas like where your axle is bolted to the car by large bolts etc because that is very solid, jacking points are OK but with a lot of use they can start to bend and it also takes the paint/underseal off them causing rust to start.
Joe HamRadioGuy. All he had to do was weld a 6 inch long piece of angle iron to the top of a Wal-Mart jack stand and had the same thing except safer and cheaper
Good video on your welding and fabricating techniques! Excellent idea for some vehicles and specific fixes! Perfect fit for the floor jack,especially on a one sided project! Thank you for the idea and video!
As a mechanical engineer this is not a good design its far too short and needs to have adjustability to pick up under the sills as close to the wheels as possible. The use of a horizontal member is great but use commercial jack stands that are rated for certain loads and have a wide base for stability. Your support system is a failure from an engineering perspective.
cool concept with added stability. you could also put a pivot point on top with metal casters on bottom to rotate out of way or use as a car dolly to move whole car or part . Using leverage locks on side to lock casters down and spring mechanism to retract. Cool simple invention either way .
The entire weight of the car is now on those 2 bolts. Unlike a jack stand where the pressure actually holds the clamps tighter. What’s the weight rating on those bolts? I Wouldn’t trust my life under that car.
420CEO First those are pins not bolts,that is what they are designed for. Second you won't trust this which has 4 points of contact, but you will trust a jack stand with 1.
He bought those "pins" with threads js, at the dollar store, why wouldnt you trust them? Those welds though. Im not a welder so I know when someone else is not a welder.
If you have ever jacked up a car from the sill panel jacking point you then have to look for a suitable point to place the jack stand. Finding a suitable place for a jack stand can be tricky on some modern cars that have full length under body plastic trays. I think this is a good idea.
The bolts are in "shear", no weight rating. However, a grade8 automotive bolt of 3/8" diameter (dia. of section with no threads ) would be sufficient for a three or four thousand pound vehicle. I was more concerned about the foot (base) of the jackstand- I prefer at least three legs on mine.
My 06 Sentra has stumped me for years as to how to raise the rear and use jack stands. (Thankfully the front has a central point obvious for a floor jack and two obvious jack stand points.) For the rear, to use the trunk jack under the seam like in the video there was no trustworthy place to put a jack stand. Recently, raising to replace an exhaust, I had the car slip off using the rear two "apparent" jack stand points, when one folded over. Finally after this latest incident I found I could put a stand sideways right behind the seam the scissor jack straddles that runs the length between the wheels, towards the rear wheel well. There is a little extra metal in that area. This also requires back and forth driver to passenger side steps. So I kind of admire this video integrating the jack stand with the floor jack. btw, I use the scissor jack on one side and a floor jack on the other, with the dish removed and a small vise slightly opened sitting over the hole where the dish fits, to straddle the seam under the car body. The stand however is so close to the floor jack it's barely possible to use together. I'd actually prefer two scissor jacks.
Using setscrews instead of hardened steel pins to support the car's weight seems like a risk. Useful if space is restricted, where a jack and normal axle stand would conflict, but otherwise a lot of work for little benefit. Just the angle piece on top of the jack might be a good idea to spread the load when needing to raise under the sills. Remove jack saddle, and create a 'Y' from the angle and the pin.
A car never has only one "support point" . You should really jack a unibody car up by where the subframe bolts on , and if you have to then put the jack stand on reinforced rocker area ..
Very good design! Fitting to the width of that support channel over a much wider area adds to the strength and stability far superior to a jack stand. The height is kept down to a minimum, just enough to pull the wheels and easily put them back on! Dr. Hacker does it again!! I'm thinking this idea or design could also be adapted to fitting under the front cross member eliminating the legs of a jack stand from getting in the way of the tires or complicating front end work. Safety first guys!
Great build! , a lot of vehicles are very weak at that jack up point and bend the medal! Good idea, just need to have a flatter platform on top so you can jack it up in a stronger area
Great idea! I'm looking for something like that for years but coudn't find a supplier. After watching your video I will build my own version. I will however modify your design to better prevent tipping.
If I may make a suggestion Make the feet bigger . Make the whole thing a little wider and a little taller . bigger bolts because all the weight is relying on those bolts. Cut a small channel on top bracket for the angle iron to sit in so you're not relying on the welds
Before suggesting wider, understand trusses. That may very well introduce new problems. Purchase something that is certified and made by a responsible company. Live long and prosper.
Looks like a nice Bolt Shear ! not sure how well those soft steel bolts will hold up... It is an interesting thingy and may work well for some folks, I like different approaches to common tasks like this. I give it 3 stars.
I use a round log from our firewood pile about 18 inches in diameter, with 4 by 1 packers if needed, it can’t tip over or drop down. Also spreads the pressure on your chassis. Safe as houses. Nice welding job though.
Just think of the cost of supplies too. They won't sell you a 2" piece of round stock. Have to buy 8'. Just like the rest of the materials. A better idea. Two jack stands. Use a piece of metal to connect the two tops of the jacks. etc.. you get the idea. Just make 2 stands one...
You should not lift by the pinch weld. The rocker around the pinch weld is reinforced and meant to take the load. You will eventually bend the pinch weld.
So this gives you one jack point rather than multiple. Anyone that knows what they’re doing won’t floor jack the weak spot of the pinch weld. They will hit the tranny mount, tow hook, frame, A arm bushing mount, etc...
lostintime86 you can't use 2 Jack stands, they are too high. Maybe if you have a 4x4 truck or suv that would work but not a car. German cars have to be jacked by the pinch welds.
I've been doing automotive work for over 30 years. I like the concept but It looks to unstable from side to side. Maybe if the bases were wider and they had some triangle side bracing welded on. Also current Jack stands only require one lever or bolt where your's requires two. Also the way it's lifted with the round pedestal in the middle shows that it won't come down even as it was leaning to one side when the jack was removed, I would just remove that part. I think it could work with some extra work, but with the current design I wouldn't crawl under that vehicle based on my experience in automotive repairs and using all kinds of stands. Thanks for sharing though. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
It's junk; pointless junk. It starts with the rig already under the car which means the car was somehow elevated previously so we're seeing step 2. Just not worth the bother. I have a general rule for YT videos to avoid anything with Genius, or Amazing, or Incredible, etc., in the title but unfortunately I let the thumbnail suck me in on this waste.
Felicitaciones Dr. Hacker...Excelente sus Ideas e inventos ..!!! Muy útil para el taller. y facilitar el trabajo... los admiro.. Gracias por compartir... Saludos desde Ciudad de Camaná Perú Betito Producciones..
Youd be surprised; bolts have and insanely high Straight Sheer strength. But yes.. Terrible welding. I still don't understand why he kept switching to stick, then back to mig, then stick welding again. Maybe to try and get a better bead? Ha
I have a couple of pto driven implements that use sheer pins. Bolts are in no way near the sheer strength of a pin. A sheer pin( which is made to sheer in the event of a lockup) has more sheer strength than a grade 2 bolt. This is risky.
Wayne: I don't see any pinholes or flux inclusions, and as long as he achieved full penetration all the way around, does the surface appearance matter that much to the strength of the joint?
Very unsafe As you lift it with a floor Jack it pulls your little 2 legged stand on an angle. Side note. Jack stands have 4 legs for a reason. Please put that in the scrap pile so you do not get hurt
The upper corners 90 ° should have reinforcements with triangles, to eliminate rupture by possible oscillatory movements left and right. Do not forget that a car weighs 1.5 - 2 tons ...
Yes pins would be a better idea. Or grade 8 bolts. Fortunately looks like the car weighs less then 2 tons. Also should have tacked the the tubing together to drill the holes, or drilled them separately.
well, I do agree that a jackstand with a wide base will allow more horizontal force, but if you think of his video as inspiration rather than then final design - I think its a good idea (but I also know that there is a commercial alternative safe-jack) but its helpfull to see others making stuff as inspiration.
Christian Andersen who are you trying to kid? This serves no other point other that an ugly jackstand! 99% of the stuff this person makes is a copy of an original or "HIS" version. These aren't " hacks", hacked up? Yeah but not hacks!
Two tons of truck that are supported by 2 bolts? What happens if the bolts shear off after repeated use? Jack stands are not that expensive. Plus not everyone has all that metal cutting equipment and welding equipment?
The idea is good, need stronger or bigger bolts though. I would also make the whole "lifting section" longer to get more clearance/space under the car if I made these.
Wood blocks will also work in this application. Also the load was not spread across the welded channel that touched the car because the leg height cannot be adjusted correctly to spread the load. Just use jack stands or blocks. But I did like how it lifted the car for sure.
You could make a three leg-ed stand with a pillar in the same way and put a single bolt in the pillar itself, would help you to adjust only one bolt - makes more simple. Good idea.
Ok Dr Hacker I'll give credit for thinking out side the "box" on this one but someone else has already been there done that. Please buy pins NOW!!!! I don't want hear that you were crushed under a car with them bolts......................
like everyone else, don't trust those bolts!!!!! they are not designed to be loaded that way. Also you should re-engineer the base to be wider similar to a jack stand. Kudos for doing it yourself and making the videos. Don't let the comments discourage you and keep at it.
Ok I've read the comments and most are right. With that said for a project a few modifications could be made. Make the feet wit a larger plate and put gusets on it. Make the length horizontally adjustable so you could use different tie in points and fixtures. Make it so it cold extend higher. You could also use it as a work stand or saw horse.
Nice job, but I believe it has limited application. To rotate tires on my family cars, I just went to Harbor freight and bought a second one ton floor jack for $29. I now have two floor jacks.That way I can jack up both wheels on the same side of the car and rotate them. Also, you can get a set of jackstands that are more heavy duty for $29
OK somewhat clever, but the foot print is too small. TOO TIPPY. Also, since tou got the fabricobbling stuff, make a tool to actuate the valve on your jack.
Don't listen to the critique, point is, is it may need a little tweaking and better bolts and height but it's ideas and effort like this that makes people think and create new ideas. So, thank you.
Thank you for showing us how to paint something red. I think that is what this video was. By the way... jackstands... $17 at Harbor Freight. And jack lowering tool at the end of the jacking rod...
Never, EVER wear gloves when you're using a drill press. If the glove gets caught in the drill bit, well you can imagine what would happen to your hand!
Пользовался одно время такой подставкой. Закончилось тем, что после установки такого "девайса" стал поддомкрачивать противоположную сторону и банально столкнул машину и с этой подставки и с домкрата.
Hooray!!!! I just spent $50 on material plus about 3 hours of fabbing to make a jack stand!!!! Or I can go to harbor freight and buy a pair for $19.99!
If you spent half as much time preparing your steel for welding as you do grinding the ugly welds, you would have better welds and not need to grind them to clean up the ugly welds. Taking a sanding disk to the steel before welding makes a huge difference.
Because he doesn't know how to mig weld properly. LOL he was making a mess with the mig. Watching the welding skills alone.. let alone the poor design, I would never get under a vehicle with that stand.
Good job! They'll go everywhere that Jack goes now. If you sat down and cranked out a half dozen of those, make em stack together real right, with bigger slide pins (Jesus! Enough about the tiny slide pins) That concept is so simple and sturdy! I love it! "Autodesk! I have an idea! " oh, on a side note, your welds? damn!! take a couple hrs. sit down and burn a couple a pounds of rod. 7018 when you need it to be strong. 6013,7014 when its a good fit and welded flat position (very fast and smooth) 6011,6010 when you're in an awkward position, and need an easier strike. Low amps bridges gaps, regular level amps penetrates well, highest amps for cutting and gouging (no shit, try it) overall, not a very strong weld, like 7018 & 11018. Have fun and thanks for the ideas!
Good idea but one thing I would've done differently is cut up some jack stands for the supports. That way they would automatically lock when raising it.
Allen McKinney Or could just use the jack stands as they were designed.
Or just use the jack stand instead of cutting it
Allen McKinney that is actually a great idea, but normally that would require a lot of ground clearance to begin with. try and watch the video fram safe jacks and you'll notice that the vertical bars are mounted at the end.
Cutting up jack stands to build more jack stands, brilliant! That's right up there with watering crops with Gatorade because plants need electrolytes.
OR just use the jack stands and don't cut them up
Wow that's a pretty slick homemade invention. Even with a unibody front wheel drive car, there are more than enough suitable areas to put a jack underneath it. I think it's sad that some people don't know that and end up tearing up the rocker panels on their car. Hats off to the guy who made this though.
You are on to something, first off to the experts the sheer strength is well over 20,000 lbs each bolts . They will never fail under a car. The welds may look ugly but they too are mig welded and better than grind offs from China. Clamp jacks increase pressure over load and you are relying on a hardened cog and a weld to support the load. The bolts will outperform the clamp on any day. I have a suggestion. Make the unit smaller and use one extension. Find 4 points under the car and make legs that hinge down with no height adjustment . bolt unit to the frame and don't weld it . Now you have stands bolted to the car and hidden from view. All you need is to jack it up and fold down the stands. Good work on the prototype :D
Enough nay sayers,.....I am making a ride on mower workstand and your idea for lifting it off the ground is exactly what I needed. I will incorporate some of what you did, thanks for sharing this!
You have to be careful when jacking on the pinch weld flange. Some cars have weak rocker panels and will bend upward when you jack on them. Another factor to consider is older cars where the rockers are rusted, they can totally cave in.
You could weld a bar with a drop peg across the top of two jack stands and get the same result but much safer.
Thanks, I might look into that !
Thanks for the idea, can anyone share a dseign for the new improvement that should be stronger and accident proof.
So a crocodile jack is also essential in puttin up this support?
Thank you very much.
Henry Ruiz.
Thè Philippines.
A GREAT way to place support exactly under a lifting point and a genius way to lift and support along the rockers.
I like it very much!, these doubters obviously haven't done much jacking! The main problem it solves is there's only one place you should support the car! so you can't put the axle stands in the correct place...because that's where you put the jack. The car I have just bought has had the stiffening ridge folded flat by either garages or home mechanics using axle stands in the wrong place!
They don't do real work on their cars or they would see the use for this.
Personally I never Jack up my car or support it by the jacking points, I always use suspension mount areas like where your axle is bolted to the car by large bolts etc because that is very solid, jacking points are OK but with a lot of use they can start to bend and it also takes the paint/underseal off them causing rust to start.
These are already being made nice idea however I'd like to see the base a little longer for more stability.
Joe HamRadioGuy ryyy66 k
Joe HamRadioGuy. All he had to do was weld a 6 inch long piece of angle iron to the top of a Wal-Mart jack stand and had the same thing except safer and cheaper
What grade are those bolts?? I’d much rather use high strength pins but a nifty setup nonetheless.
One may use 8.8, 10.9 or 12.9 grade bolts, however ordinary M12 bolts may serve the purpose.
Good video on your welding and fabricating techniques! Excellent idea for some vehicles and specific fixes! Perfect fit for the floor jack,especially on a one sided project! Thank you for the idea and video!
This gyu never welded before...He's a botcher ...indeed !
Perfect jugad working nicely friend 👍👍👍
Wow you invented the a less stable and safe jack stand. Now go run with scissors!
Is this is absolutely amazing. If it were my invention I would name it jack stands
As a mechanical engineer this is not a good design its far too short and needs to have adjustability to pick up under the sills as close to the wheels as possible.
The use of a horizontal member is great but use commercial jack stands that are rated for certain loads and have a wide base for stability.
Your support system is a failure from an engineering perspective.
cool concept with added stability. you could also put a pivot point on top with metal casters on bottom to rotate out of way or use as a car dolly to move whole car or part . Using leverage locks on side to lock casters down and spring mechanism to retract. Cool simple invention either way .
THAT THING WOULD MAKE A NICE BOAT ANCHOR!!! JUS USE JACK STAND.
The entire weight of the car is now on those 2 bolts. Unlike a jack stand where the pressure actually holds the clamps tighter. What’s the weight rating on those bolts? I Wouldn’t trust my life under that car.
420CEO First those are pins not bolts,that is what they are designed for. Second you won't trust this which has 4 points of contact, but you will trust a jack stand with 1.
Pins Huh??? 1:30
Those bolts aren't even grade 8. No way would I use that thing.
steve gibson II you don't know what you're talking about
He bought those "pins" with threads js, at the dollar store, why wouldnt you trust them? Those welds though. Im not a welder so I know when someone else is not a welder.
If you have ever jacked up a car from the sill panel jacking point you then have to look for a suitable point to place the jack stand. Finding a suitable place for a jack stand can be tricky on some modern cars that have full length under body plastic trays.
I think this is a good idea.
Good job my friend- more stable than one stand. Thanks for sharing.
Re-title this video: The Widowmaker
Need big life insurance.
The bolts are in "shear", no weight rating. However, a grade8 automotive bolt of 3/8" diameter (dia. of section with no threads ) would be sufficient for a three or four thousand pound vehicle. I was more concerned about the foot (base) of the jackstand- I prefer at least three legs on mine.
My 06 Sentra has stumped me for years as to how to raise the rear and use jack stands. (Thankfully the front has a central point obvious for a floor jack and two obvious jack stand points.) For the rear, to use the trunk jack under the seam like in the video there was no trustworthy place to put a jack stand. Recently, raising to replace an exhaust, I had the car slip off using the rear two "apparent" jack stand points, when one folded over. Finally after this latest incident I found I could put a stand sideways right behind the seam the scissor jack straddles that runs the length between the wheels, towards the rear wheel well. There is a little extra metal in that area. This also requires back and forth driver to passenger side steps. So I kind of admire this video integrating the jack stand with the floor jack. btw, I use the scissor jack on one side and a floor jack on the other, with the dish removed and a small vise slightly opened sitting over the hole where the dish fits, to straddle the seam under the car body. The stand however is so close to the floor jack it's barely possible to use together. I'd actually prefer two scissor jacks.
Using setscrews instead of hardened steel pins to support the car's weight seems like a risk. Useful if space is restricted, where a jack and normal axle stand would conflict, but otherwise a lot of work for little benefit.
Just the angle piece on top of the jack might be a good idea to spread the load when needing to raise under the sills. Remove jack saddle, and create a 'Y' from the angle and the pin.
Every heard of harbor freight !! Life's easier when others do the work for you..
These would be great for a car with only one support point where you can't put a jack stand on the same lifting pad.
A car never has only one "support point" . You should really jack a unibody car up by where the subframe bolts on , and if you have to then put the jack stand on reinforced rocker area ..
Very good design! Fitting to the width of that support channel over a much wider area adds to the strength and stability far superior to a jack stand. The height is kept down to a minimum, just enough to pull the wheels and easily put them back on! Dr. Hacker does it again!! I'm thinking this idea or design could also be adapted to fitting under the front cross member eliminating the legs of a jack stand from getting in the way of the tires or complicating front end work. Safety first guys!
Great build! , a lot of vehicles are very weak at that jack up point and bend the medal! Good idea, just need to have a flatter platform on top so you can jack it up in a stronger area
Not sure I would trust my life to my high school metal shop welding skills or your design LOL 😆
Looking at the design and quality of the welds especially on the angle iron, I wouldn't put any part of my body under that car.
Great idea! I'm looking for something like that for years but coudn't find a supplier. After watching your video I will build my own version. I will however modify your design to better prevent tipping.
Nicely done video. I like the parts where you hold the tape measure up to the parts so you can clearly see the dimensions.
i dont have jackstands, i use a block of a 4x4 and 2 cans of peas stacked on each other instead.
bad idea. wood will split under pressure
People would flock to see you under a car with that.
Would be just as safe
If I may make a suggestion
Make the feet bigger .
Make the whole thing a little wider and a little taller . bigger bolts because all the weight is relying on those bolts. Cut a small channel on top bracket for the angle iron to sit in so you're not relying on the welds
Forget bolts....use solid pins.
King Jong Un yeah what king jong un said
Before suggesting wider, understand trusses. That may very well introduce new problems. Purchase something that is certified and made by a responsible company. Live long and prosper.
Looks like a nice Bolt Shear ! not sure how well those soft steel bolts will hold up... It is an interesting thingy and may work well for some folks, I like different approaches to common tasks like this. I give it 3 stars.
I use a round log from our firewood pile about 18 inches in diameter, with 4 by 1 packers if needed, it can’t tip over or drop down. Also spreads the pressure on your chassis. Safe as houses. Nice welding job though.
i use jack stands
Just think of the cost of supplies too. They won't sell you a 2" piece of round stock. Have to buy 8'. Just like the rest of the materials. A better idea. Two jack stands. Use a piece of metal to connect the two tops of the jacks. etc.. you get the idea. Just make 2 stands one...
You should not lift by the pinch weld. The rocker around the pinch weld is reinforced and meant to take the load. You will eventually bend the pinch weld.
So this gives you one jack point rather than multiple. Anyone that knows what they’re doing won’t floor jack the weak spot of the pinch weld. They will hit the tranny mount, tow hook, frame, A arm bushing mount, etc...
lostintime86 you can't use 2 Jack stands, they are too high. Maybe if you have a 4x4 truck or suv that would work but not a car. German cars have to be jacked by the pinch welds.
racekar80 maybe...still a good idea,may need to custom fit it to your vehicules
I've been doing automotive work for over 30 years. I like the concept but It looks to unstable from side to side. Maybe if the bases were wider and they had some triangle side bracing welded on. Also current Jack stands only require one lever or bolt where your's requires two. Also the way it's lifted with the round pedestal in the middle shows that it won't come down even as it was leaning to one side when the jack was removed, I would just remove that part. I think it could work with some extra work, but with the current design I wouldn't crawl under that vehicle based on my experience in automotive repairs and using all kinds of stands. Thanks for sharing though. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
It's junk; pointless junk. It starts with the rig already under the car which means the car was somehow elevated previously so we're seeing step 2. Just not worth the bother. I have a general rule for YT videos to avoid anything with Genius, or Amazing, or Incredible, etc., in the title but unfortunately I let the thumbnail suck me in on this waste.
Felicitaciones Dr. Hacker...Excelente sus Ideas e inventos ..!!! Muy útil para el taller. y facilitar el trabajo... los admiro.. Gracias por compartir... Saludos desde Ciudad de Camaná Perú
Betito Producciones..
Awesome job I gotta learn some basic welding skills.
Good idea poor welding and bad execution you shouldn't rely on them tiny bolts please use haredned pins to prevent shear failure
Joe Randall the welding looks pretty good to me
Youd be surprised; bolts have and insanely high Straight Sheer strength.
But yes..
Terrible welding.
I still don't understand why he kept switching to stick, then back to mig, then stick welding again. Maybe to try and get a better bead? Ha
I have a couple of pto driven implements that use sheer pins. Bolts are in no way near the sheer strength of a pin. A sheer pin( which is made to sheer in the event of a lockup) has more sheer strength than a grade 2 bolt. This is risky.
waynekc01 : I would not dwell on it to much. Some people are beyond the understanding of the human mind.
Wayne: I don't see any pinholes or flux inclusions, and as long as he achieved full penetration all the way around, does the surface appearance matter that much to the strength of the joint?
7mins of my life I'll never get back. 😦
If I had these abilities, I would go to the basement, blind all the windows there, and be scrupulously careful that no one was filming.
Looks much more stable than a Jack Stand... Good Idea !!
This is EXTREMELY UNSAFE!
Jack stands are designed to hold a car elevated while you work underneath. Epic fail!
I'm not trying to be a jerk but using a jack with a hockey puck with a grove cut out then putting a jack stand would do the same.
or even a block of wood
Great idea. Really a more stable jack than what you get with cars today.
Nice idea. Thanks for sharing.
How to shear bolts by using a car------should be the title
Flat and small when disassembled. Needs a stronger set of pins.
Drsdxfgkkkoiutukjjnhgddsdssdsßzzxzzszsdxsssddsduyesltto colóp
Hello! I'm Brazilian and I loved the creation. Congratulations.
Nice weld...wish I could do that !
Very unsafe As you lift it with a floor Jack it pulls your little 2 legged stand on an angle. Side note. Jack stands have 4 legs for a reason. Please put that in the scrap pile so you do not get hurt
Agreed !! Great effort but this may act as a hing w/o the joint ! If you could find a way to lock it into the jack while lifting perhaps OK.
not all jack stands do have 4 legs actually, many have a single post and a large floor plate
yarpos
Or 3 legs and a 5/16" cotter pin to adjust the cradle height.
yarpos those feet don’t qualify as a large floor plate
Excellent idea, great video open up the mind to many possibilities!
Knowledge is Power
This is very unsafe. This is not a good idea and I hope no one actually crawls under a car that is supported this way.
What is the weight rating on those bolts? Looks like a fun project for somebody (like me) learning how to weld.
I can see uses for this. Good job!
that looks dangerous.....
😀
I agree awful little bolts hold that car
yes
The upper corners 90 ° should have reinforcements with triangles, to eliminate rupture by possible oscillatory movements left and right. Do not forget that a car weighs 1.5 - 2 tons ...
Gussets could be used to reinforce the welds.
Worried about the shear strength of the bolts....would pins be stronger?
Yes pins would be a better idea. Or grade 8 bolts. Fortunately looks like the car weighs less then 2 tons. Also should have tacked the the tubing together to drill the holes, or drilled them separately.
Have you had any problems with the on of switch on your ryobi grinder, ive gone through a fer of em, switch starts working opposite......
It relies on the sill which has clearly been distorted. I can see it working for some but the good old axle stands all day long.
Or you could use a JACK STAND!? Again trying to reinvent the wheel!
patrick mcglone single point lift and stand. not the same.
And not safe to be under doing any work. It just looks like an anchor to me.
well, I do agree that a jackstand with a wide base will allow more horizontal force, but if you think of his video as inspiration rather than then final design - I think its a good idea (but I also know that there is a commercial alternative safe-jack) but its helpfull to see others making stuff as inspiration.
Bingo
Christian Andersen who are you trying to kid? This serves no other point other that an ugly jackstand! 99% of the stuff this person makes is a copy of an original or "HIS" version. These aren't " hacks", hacked up? Yeah but not hacks!
Two tons of truck that are supported by 2 bolts? What happens if the bolts shear off after repeated use? Jack stands are not that expensive. Plus not everyone has all that metal cutting equipment and welding equipment?
The idea is good, need stronger or bigger bolts though. I would also make the whole "lifting section" longer to get more clearance/space under the car if I made these.
Tinkerers can come up with or fix anything!! Especially ones with talent like this fella.
Very dangerous.
500 kgs on those 2 bolts.
Topling risk.
copy paste: "sad but true"
огромная эрекция
9 months ago
The bolts are the least of your worries, look at the godamn welds!
Nothing a little bondo won’t fix! 😂
Wood blocks will also work in this application. Also the load was not spread across the welded channel that touched the car because the leg height cannot be adjusted correctly to spread the load. Just use jack stands or blocks. But I did like how it lifted the car for sure.
This works... if your jack stands are getting in the way and you need something more job specific.
Watching him lower the jack with pliers………… all you need to know! Too many problems with this video to point them all out……… safety first folks!
I would have just welded together 2 jack stands
blkthunderbolt knmoo
I like it! looks like a real time saver
You could make a three leg-ed stand with a pillar in the same way and put a single bolt in the pillar itself, would help you to adjust only one bolt - makes more simple. Good idea.
I am a bit worried about this. Those bolts could easily sheer under that pressure.
even a .25 inch grade 5 bolt has a shear weight around 4000 lbs.
Red Beard and The Den of Tools it won't sheer off
Rather than use bolts, why not use solid steel pins as used in a axle stand?
Red Beard and The Den of Tools that entire apparatus is begging to fall over under load
The shear force of one 10 mm bolt is over 3000 kg!
Ok Dr Hacker I'll give credit for thinking out side the "box" on this one but someone else has already been there done that. Please buy pins NOW!!!! I don't want hear that you were crushed under a car with them bolts......................
YOU,VE GOT ONE HELL OF A MIND!! WAY TO GO!!!
А говорят только русские мастера всё выдумывать,а тут иностранец креативным оказался ! Парень просто молодчина, идея супер!!!
A waste of 7 minutes of my time. Just buy a set of jack stands.
walkerch ya 🤦🏻♂️
Its too short genius!
Francesco Donato any taller and it won't fit , already too tall unless you have a truck or suv
like everyone else, don't trust those bolts!!!!! they are not designed to be loaded that way. Also you should re-engineer the base to be wider similar to a jack stand. Kudos for doing it yourself and making the videos. Don't let the comments discourage you and keep at it.
Ok I've read the comments and most are right. With that said for a project a few modifications could be made. Make the feet wit a larger plate and put gusets on it. Make the length horizontally adjustable so you could use different tie in points and fixtures. Make it so it cold extend higher. You could also use it as a work stand or saw horse.
Wow! Jack stands! What will you think of next !? Battery powered impact !?
if you took a few mins , and trimmed about half an inch off each foot , it would help
wouldnt work any better , but it would fit in the bin easier.
tom thompson haha!
Nice job, but I believe it has limited application. To rotate tires on my family cars, I just went to Harbor freight and bought a second one ton floor jack for $29. I now have two floor jacks.That way I can jack up both wheels on the same side of the car and rotate them. Also, you can get a set of jackstands that are more heavy duty for $29
Gostei,prático!
Farei dois pra mim,ótimo para manutenção no automóvel.
OK somewhat clever, but the foot print is too small. TOO TIPPY.
Also, since tou got the fabricobbling stuff, make a tool to actuate the valve on your jack.
hate to tell but walmart, every walmart has jack stands, not new, not genius
exactly ....it looks like he thinks he has reinvented the wheel! :D
or less
Don't listen to the critique, point is, is it may need a little tweaking and better bolts and height but it's ideas and effort like this that makes people think and create new ideas. So, thank you.
Thank you for showing us how to paint something red. I think that is what this video was.
By the way... jackstands... $17 at Harbor Freight. And jack lowering tool at the end of the jacking rod...
...wow, what a great idea! If only someone hadn't already invented jack stands. DUH. Dr. Hacker better go back to hacking medical school.
Jack stands always seem in the way of what i'm doing. This would be a good alt. when needed.
Jose Cunha s
Jose show us YOUR fucking idea dick.
Never, EVER wear gloves when you're using a drill press. If the glove gets caught in the drill bit, well you can imagine what would happen to your hand!
Saw it happen once. The girl took a ride in the ambulance. Many stitches & 2 fingernails pulled off.
Пользовался одно время такой подставкой. Закончилось тем, что после установки такого "девайса" стал поддомкрачивать противоположную сторону и банально столкнул машину и с этой подставки и с домкрата.
Hooray!!!! I just spent $50 on material plus about 3 hours of fabbing to make a jack stand!!!! Or I can go to harbor freight and buy a pair for $19.99!
Good job. You made a dangerous and stupid version of a jack stand. Genius.
Good job, you made an asshole comment. Genius and already done in earlier comments.
Fast Nasty, except I was being sincere.
Lose the music.
stuart paterson Amen to that
This is way better than just jack stands. This is way fckn cool!
If you spent half as much time preparing your steel for welding as you do grinding the ugly welds, you would have better welds and not need to grind them to clean up the ugly welds. Taking a sanding disk to the steel before welding makes a huge difference.
Why start with mig and finish with stick welding? Makes no sense!!
steb921 maybe he ran out of wire for the mig welder, I don't know just a wild guess.
steb921 my guess is his might welder wasn't hot enough for the thicker metal
Because he doesn't know how to mig weld properly. LOL he was making a mess with the mig. Watching the welding skills alone.. let alone the poor design, I would never get under a vehicle with that stand.
No mig was used in the making of whatever this is!!
because the MIG welds looked like baby shit. did you see the splatter?
I wish I would have seen this before I went to all the trouble to buy some jack stands.
Go back to school, ya little baby.
Good job! They'll go everywhere that Jack goes now. If you sat down and cranked out a half dozen of those, make em stack together real right, with bigger slide pins (Jesus! Enough about the tiny slide pins) That concept is so simple and sturdy! I love it! "Autodesk! I have an idea! "
oh, on a side note, your welds? damn!! take a couple hrs. sit down and burn a couple a pounds of rod. 7018 when you need it to be strong. 6013,7014 when its a good fit and welded flat position (very fast and smooth) 6011,6010 when you're in an awkward position, and need an easier strike. Low amps bridges gaps, regular level amps penetrates well, highest amps for cutting and gouging (no shit, try it) overall, not a very strong weld, like 7018 & 11018.
Have fun and thanks for the ideas!
What do you use to keep your work table from rusting?