Hey Keith, Would love to see a final walk through on one of your homes if possible. Also when you do it maybe go over things you look for before you cut the final checks and turn over the keys to the owners. Keep up the videos they're a huge help!
This is great video, you're a great teacher. I got my start in residential home building this past year after transitions rom pre-fab and modular construction and learned so much from our subs more than my actual boss.
That island sink should have a Boston Loop on the plumbing, which is two pipes coming out of the underground that go through slab. Two long turn 90°s, a Y on a horizontal underneath the dirt/ab, a vent tee underground, a Santee with a clean out under it on the drain side all 2" pipe except for the horizontal stub out in the Santee can be 1 1/2" or 2" pipe.
Usually I do plumbing that is what I went to technical college for. The toilet stub outs I usually use 1 1/2"-2" of foam wrap that is about a 1/4" thick. Same style dirt in the box for the tub drains. Maybe they did have two pipes stubbed up for the island sink. Usually I have the clean out and sand tee on the drain side on the underground so on top out I don't get it mixed up. Plus on top it's going to get tested with other fittings any ways.
Usually on jobs I have worked on the stem wall and some footings are poured first, then the slab. I have not seen many if any houses that the stem wall is not dug down lower than the ab for the slab as well as any footings.
We do have gravel, it's called chat, compacts super hard, kind of the go-to in this area, or road base. No vapor barrier as we are close to the river, we need to keep the concrete dry so water can stay in its place. I am not a fan of vapor barriers under concrete unless you have erosion issues in the soil that can affect the concrete, like in Vegas.
Thank you keith for the good video. You gave a ton of info on this video that are very helpful when Im ready to build my house, I will know what to look for. Many thanks.
I've seen rebar chairs that were just pieces of concrete, seems like that works pretty well. Then you don't have to guess where it should be as you are pouring. Also when should underlayment be used? Moisture from the ground can suck up into the concrete and get to the rebar?
Hey Yo Keith, I hope this finds you well.... 1st, You have THEEEE BEST clip I've found on slabs for my plans. And you answer questions too. I hope you can and will answer a couple for me, too. Scenario: I'm going to be constructing a VERY modest house after trucking in clay to raise the lot 1.5 meters and left to settle for one full year or two.... I want a single rectangular house about 5m × 15m (900 ft²). AND....I'm building in a rice village in Thailand. I also want a "ranch style" concrete patio all the way around with an extending roof. I want it to be 5 meters wide. Question: Should it be one giagantic slab 15m × 25 m ? Or should the slab be independent and patio slab just be poured up to the house slab? Lastly.... Finances are not going to be significantly different between 3,4,5 or 6 inchs of concrete. Is thicker always better? This part you don't need to know. Also all electrical will come from the rafters downward. The plumbing will be one bath and one kitchen sink going to a big catch containment that overflows to the municipality sewer system.... Thank you for the clip. I 👍 button
Thank you for the tip on burying the electrical conduit in the ground. I've seen folks that just lie them on top of the dirt prior to the foundation being poured. It makes sense that would cause a weakness. But what about running PEX tubes through the slab that are connected to the rebar, for radiant floor heating? Do those also weaken the slab?
In my arid climate it's generally not called for. The only reason I can see installing this is if you had high ground water or greater moisture in the soil, or high alkali in the soil that can can erode concrete.
Hello & thank you for your channel. If you have a crawl space, is it possible to not bury conduits, sewer lines, etc., below the slab? It all seems very inaccessible if something ever fails over time.
I’ve worked in construction on commercial properties for decades. I’ve seen slabs that didn’t have rebar imbedded in the concrete. There were potholes literally starting to form all over the place and one of the tilt up exterior walls was starting to separate from the rest of the building. If you don’t put rebar in your foundation you’re a class A Moron and you deserve to be separated from your money 😂
Really great videos Keith. I'm just about to start building for the first time and these are dynamite for me. I'm building with Interlocking Compressed Earth Block (like a cement stabilised Rammed-earth tongue and groove block system with a slurry mortar, so I should not need highly technical skills on laying the blocks), and making them myself, so if you have any advice I would love to hear it? I will also be using Cupolex plastic domes, which leaves an air cavity under the slab. This system is supposed to make the slab stronger and allows me to pump warm air from the ceiling back under the slab to aid winter heating. Do you know anything about this system?
Please send me info on it. It is basically acting as a thermal bridge. Creating a thermal bridge is going to be the big tech advance in all construction. They have already mastered this in windows, for the most part.
@@HowToBuildYourOwnHome Kieth, I'm not sure if you are asking for info on the Compressed Earth Block system or the Cupolex dome system, but here are both: So the Cupolex system you can see here: czcams.com/video/0X8G6qy2Gbs/video.html For the ICEB system, I will use a batch mixer and hydraulic press which applies 20 tonne of pressure to make 2 blocks at a time, and about 35,000 blocks in 8 days. I calculated I can save $100,000 on this stage alone. Here is the general concept: czcams.com/video/qGn6-zuSIR0/video.html here: czcams.com/video/GM32U_DOdYo/video.html and here: czcams.com/video/wloUJawQnSc/video.html I can help you with more info if you are interested.
Are there any regulations about building a garage slab over a sewer line running through the property. For instance a garage slab spanning the width of a back yard with the sewer line running under under the slab and garage.
Hey Keith, question about the 400 amp service pipe coming through the slab. That is going to connect to the power company's meter on the exterior--correct?
No and yes. No in the flat area and yes in the footings. No because it's hassle pouring and tripping over the rebar when you use chairs. We lift the rebar into place on the slab area as we go.
In south Florida they require vapor barriers and vertical dowels. Its cool to see how things are done under different codes
Hey Keith,
Would love to see a final walk through on one of your homes if possible. Also when you do it maybe go over things you look for before you cut the final checks and turn over the keys to the owners. Keep up the videos they're a huge help!
This is my kind of guy
This is great video, you're a great teacher. I got my start in residential home building this past year after transitions rom pre-fab and modular construction and learned so much from our subs more than my actual boss.
That is awesome!
That island sink should have a Boston Loop on the plumbing, which is two pipes coming out of the underground that go through slab. Two long turn 90°s, a Y on a horizontal underneath the dirt/ab, a vent tee underground, a Santee with a clean out under it on the drain side all 2" pipe except for the horizontal stub out in the Santee can be 1 1/2" or 2" pipe.
Usually I do plumbing that is what I went to technical college for. The toilet stub outs I usually use 1 1/2"-2" of foam wrap that is about a 1/4" thick. Same style dirt in the box for the tub drains. Maybe they did have two pipes stubbed up for the island sink. Usually I have the clean out and sand tee on the drain side on the underground so on top out I don't get it mixed up. Plus on top it's going to get tested with other fittings any ways.
Thanks Keith. Very timely and informative. Please video the pour.
Thanks, Keith! Great video -- It's rare when I watch a video in its entirety. Subscribed!
Glad to help. I will keep it up
Usually on jobs I have worked on the stem wall and some footings are poured first, then the slab. I have not seen many if any houses that the stem wall is not dug down lower than the ab for the slab as well as any footings.
Thank you, Keith. Very informative and interesting on how it all should be done right. 👍
Glad it was helpful!
I love walk out Basements than a pad....
I agree
Well done.Even i can understand the process
WOW, No gravel under the slab, & no vapor barrier.
We do have gravel, it's called chat, compacts super hard, kind of the go-to in this area, or road base. No vapor barrier as we are close to the river, we need to keep the concrete dry so water can stay in its place. I am not a fan of vapor barriers under concrete unless you have erosion issues in the soil that can affect the concrete, like in Vegas.
Thank you keith for the good video. You gave a ton of info on this video that are very helpful when Im ready to build my house, I will know what to look for. Many thanks.
Very welcome
Thank you for the advice. Cheers from Sydney Australia 🦘.
Great job this is the way to build a home I don't like the cable
I am not a fan of post tension either.
I've seen rebar chairs that were just pieces of concrete, seems like that works pretty well. Then you don't have to guess where it should be as you are pouring. Also when should underlayment be used? Moisture from the ground can suck up into the concrete and get to the rebar?
Those are good too
thanks for all the info
Hey Yo Keith,
I hope this finds you well....
1st, You have THEEEE BEST clip I've found on slabs for my plans. And you answer questions too.
I hope you can and will answer a couple for me, too.
Scenario:
I'm going to be constructing a VERY modest house after trucking in clay to raise the lot 1.5 meters and left to settle for one full year or two....
I want a single rectangular house about 5m × 15m
(900 ft²).
AND....I'm building in a rice village in Thailand. I also want a "ranch style" concrete patio all the way around with an extending roof. I want it to be 5 meters wide.
Question:
Should it be one giagantic slab 15m × 25 m ? Or should the slab be independent and patio slab just be poured up to the house slab?
Lastly....
Finances are not going to be significantly different between 3,4,5 or 6 inchs of concrete. Is thicker always better?
This part you don't need to know.
Also all electrical will come from the rafters downward. The plumbing will be one bath and one kitchen sink going to a big catch containment that overflows to the municipality sewer system....
Thank you for the clip.
I 👍 button
Thank you for the tip on burying the electrical conduit in the ground. I've seen folks that just lie them on top of the dirt prior to the foundation being poured. It makes sense that would cause a weakness. But what about running PEX tubes through the slab that are connected to the rebar, for radiant floor heating? Do those also weaken the slab?
I would thicken the slab to at least 4 inches. As long as you have two inches of concrete coverage you should be fine.
I would love to have good vapor insulation under so my slab would not "sweat"
In my arid climate it's generally not called for. The only reason I can see installing this is if you had high ground water or greater moisture in the soil, or high alkali in the soil that can can erode concrete.
Hello Keith, love the channel. Why wouldn't you just use shorter chairs in the field of the pour?
We have used them but I trip over them all the time, like I did today.
Great video, as usual. What's your preference Keith, post tension or rebar?
REBAR
Awesome!!!!! Thank you so much!!!
You bet!
What state are you at love your work you take pride do you not not put plastic under your footers to keep them dry all the time
I build in the south west region of Utah. No plastic needed, at least not in the soils where I build most. In some areas we have issues.
Hello & thank you for your channel. If you have a crawl space, is it possible to not bury conduits, sewer lines, etc., below the slab? It all seems very inaccessible if something ever fails over time.
You don't typically see houses that have crawl spaces with a slab foundation.
Not for a slab.
👍🔨📐🧱just subscribed ✌
What do you mean by blowing out the footings with a blower? Is it not dirt? How are you using a blower to blow dirt around. To what end?
Leaves and grass sometimes get push in.
I’m a concrete finisher I do tear outs for these all the time, if I find steel in your slab I’m charging double… also it does nothing
I never pour a slab without rebar. It does not stop the cracking, but it can limit the extent of any severe cracking or separation.
I’ve worked in construction on commercial properties for decades. I’ve seen slabs that didn’t have rebar imbedded in the concrete. There were potholes literally starting to form all over the place and one of the tilt up exterior walls was starting to separate from the rest of the building. If you don’t put rebar in your foundation you’re a class A Moron and you deserve to be separated from your money 😂
@@HowToBuildYourOwnHomeabsolutely, it becomes a solid unit.
3 1/2”thickness is min. code. 2” is bad in more ways than one.
Very true
Really great videos Keith. I'm just about to start building for the first time and these are dynamite for me. I'm building with Interlocking Compressed Earth Block (like a cement stabilised Rammed-earth tongue and groove block system with a slurry mortar, so I should not need highly technical skills on laying the blocks), and making them myself, so if you have any advice I would love to hear it? I will also be using Cupolex plastic domes, which leaves an air cavity under the slab. This system is supposed to make the slab stronger and allows me to pump warm air from the ceiling back under the slab to aid winter heating. Do you know anything about this system?
Please send me info on it. It is basically acting as a thermal bridge. Creating a thermal bridge is going to be the big tech advance in all construction. They have already mastered this in windows, for the most part.
@@HowToBuildYourOwnHome Kieth, I'm not sure if you are asking for info on the Compressed Earth Block system or the Cupolex dome system, but here are both: So the Cupolex system you can see here: czcams.com/video/0X8G6qy2Gbs/video.html For the ICEB system, I will use a batch mixer and hydraulic press which applies 20 tonne of pressure to make 2 blocks at a time, and about 35,000 blocks in 8 days. I calculated I can save $100,000 on this stage alone. Here is the general concept: czcams.com/video/qGn6-zuSIR0/video.html here: czcams.com/video/GM32U_DOdYo/video.html and here: czcams.com/video/wloUJawQnSc/video.html
I can help you with more info if you are interested.
Thank you
You're welcome
Are there any regulations about building a garage slab over a sewer line running through the property. For instance a garage slab spanning the width of a back yard with the sewer line running under under the slab and garage.
If it is your sewer line it should not be a problem. We do this all the time with slab on grade homes.
@@HowToBuildYourOwnHome Thanks for the reply.
Haha , Dude screams in the background @ 1:38
No moisture barrier?
Hey Keith, question about the 400 amp service pipe coming through the slab. That is going to connect to the power company's meter on the exterior--correct?
Yes.
I subscribed to your online course
Welcome aboard. Thank you.
how you can pass inspection with this. This is not the house. I think he build this without inspection
Thanks for the comment. This slab was in the process of getting ready for inspection. I filmed my pre-inspection.
Who schedules the slab inspection.
GC or owner operating as builder. Inspection is done by local building official, however the compaction test is done by a certified Geotech.
Where's the moisture barrier?
Not called for in our area, or at least on this side. We have not upward movement of moisture on solid rock.
so no chairs on the rebar
No and yes. No in the flat area and yes in the footings. No because it's hassle pouring and tripping over the rebar when you use chairs. We lift the rebar into place on the slab area as we go.
@@HowToBuildYourOwnHome you are not in cali? cause they are required.
Who schedules the slab inspection.
The builder schedules with the local building official, however the Geotech inspects and tests the foundation for compaction, especially the footings.