The Correct Way to Flush Your Engine - Leaves No Residue
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- čas přidán 9. 05. 2021
- The most important step after chemically flushing your engine oil is to change the oil and filter again, run the engine for 10 minutes and then drain. This second oil change is to remove any remaining engine flush chemicals and dirty oil circulating in the engine to avoid contaminating your new oil.
Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush: amzn.to/3o93BMP
Mobil 1 Extended Performance High Mileage Full Synthetic Oil: amzn.to/3exKtFg
In this video I will show you how dirty the second oil flush is after the initial engine flush with Liqui-Moly. I go into more detail about engine flushing and Liqui-Moly in my article here: owenlucas.com/engine-flush-no...
Step by step double flush procedure.
1. Pour 1 can of Liqui Moly into your engine.
2. Run engine for 10 Minutes, idle speed, do not drive.
3. Drain oil and change filter.
4. Add new oil and run engine for 10 minutes or go for a short drive.
5. Drain oil again (to remove any remaining old oil and left over sludge) and change filter.
6. Add new oil and you are finished.
See Through Glass Oil Filter: • Clear Oil Filter (Glas...
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The small details like the white paper in the drain pan and the condition of the car being serviced is what makes this video excellent.
Thank you for the compliment!
Whats the paper do
@@DanielPMurilloContrast for the color of the oil.
@@DanielPMurillo prevents splash
I'm a retired ASE Master Technician that was trained at the GM Training College in Atlanta by the experts from GM, engineers who designed cars for a living, and this is some of what I learned about oils there.
NO oil is "good for" 20,000 miles unless it's in an engine running on propane and here's why. *_There are no filters out there good enough to filter out the carbon!_* Internal combustion engines that burn gasoline or diesel make microscopic clumps of carbon atoms that stick to the oil on the cylinder walls and get into the oil. They're like *FINE SANDPAPER* and they polish the metal parts, and polish them, and polish them...
Until the clearances get big enough to cause something to break, either a lifter that can't hold pressure because it bleeds off too much oil too fast or a rod bearing that bleeds off to much oil from the journal so the inserts make contact with the journal... etc. etc.
Even the best oils need to be removed before they get dark, it's that carbon that makes it dark. So the best thing to do is to replace your oil every 3000-5000 miles. This gives you another benefit. Modern oils have detergents that keep the sludge from building up inside your engine so when you drain it out to replace it, the sludge precursors drain out with it. These detergents wear out from heat after a few thousand miles so it's best to replace your oil every 3000 miles and you'll never have to "flush" the engine in the first place. NEVER!
I've taken engines apart that had a half million miles on them and had good service records at the dealership they bought the car from. They brought it in there every 3000-5000 miles for an oil change, and this is what I found: CLEAN ENGINES with very thin layers of sticky old oil on the non-wearing metal surfaces; and the polished bearing surfaces were still within specs.
Save your money on that synthetic oil and spend the savings on more frequent oil changes and you too can have an engine that'll go to the moon and back. Remember, unless you're burning propane which doesn't make carbon, CARBON is the real problem, not "cheap oils".
Those "cheap oils" are just as good as synthetic for normal engines, they lubricate just as good as synthetics. Synthetics would be good choice for a propane burner, then you could go 10,000 miles, that is if they're using super detergents that don't break down, detergents they didn't have back in the 1990's. But in a gasoline or diesel engine, it's a total waste of money, and can lead you to do one of the worst things you can do: *_Go 20,000 miles between oil changes with worn out detergents and carbon particles slowly eating up your engine from the inside._*
Thank you for your thorough and masterful response. Those are very good points and imagining how the carbon works away like fine sandpaper on metal components is a good visualization. You provide enough reasons not to go beyond a 5K OCI.
Can't argue with facts from an expert with a life time of experience. Thankyou and enjoy your retirement
Yeah, it's actually dangerous to simply flush. It's safer to avoid flushing, especially on newer cars. It's can simply abuse some damage inside the engine.
The comment said it all, the chemicals that cause that thin layering on the engine act as a sealant for the long haul.
Thank you for the comment 👍
Thank you for sharing your experience
Frequent oil changes are likely best but no matter what I do, my oils is instantly black on my Cummins. High compression will push that blow by past the rings into the oil. I added an oil centrifuge which has actually been removing some of that soot from the oil. I will likely flush the engine to see if I can get the rings to seal a little better.
As a mechanic, I see MANY cars that could use a method like this. Good work.
Thank you sir!
Oil and filters are cheap compared to internal engine part replacement. I don't blame you for doing extra oil changes after the flush. Some might say it's overkill but it sounds like cheap insurance to be safe.
extra oil changes?...why?...if you are uncertain, one change is sufficient
after 1st engine flush i'll do a 2nd extra oil change after 500km mileage after the 1st flush. I change engine oil every 5,000km mileage FYI.
Yeah. My mechanic says I need a new head. 12-1500 bucks. Bought it this way. Don't judge me.
@@johnedward71 bump
Excellent comment thanks
Yes, the cheap oil and filter flush is actually the key to getting all carbonized debris out. Little extra work - but the engine block is nearly factory-clean.
When would be the next time to do such a flush once cheap oil and filter flush is done ?
@@hamzakhalid95 If you keep up on ur oil changes 5k miles maximum, shouldn't be for awhile.
Having torn engines apart i n the past, that's a yes and a no. Pulling the pan and heads on a used engine is always interesting and at least a cup or two of old oil always manages to hide somewhere inside, the condition of which tells you everything about the owner's oil change routine. But it doesn't really matter, since just doing 2 or 3 short-interval oil change (say 100 miles) in a row you will get very close to "clean as possible" and that's close enough. My own engines upon getting torn apart were always clean and had minimum wear on timing chain and gears (the real test) and I flushed them maybe once every year or two. The flushing isn't nearly as important as short oil change intervals.
@@robertmaybeth3434 that’s good information to know thank you very much
@@robertmaybeth3434 so what was your method, routine system?
Fun fact from Europe - car manufacturers here say the oil should be changed every 20k miles - because it is good for the environment. I don't get it how eco it is to see a 3 year old car being scraped because it's 100k mile engine with only 3 oil changes seized LOL
😲 Those are pretty extreme cycles to recommend and they better have the best oil to last that long! I am sure it is possible on brand new vehicles but for older cars, not so much.
@@OwenLucas European oils are considered pretty top of the line. However, if I spend 10,20,50K$ on a vehicle, I'm not going to try to save $50-100/year on an oil change or two at the expense of my engine.
1-2 20K, 3-4 10K oil changes and you are out of warranty and SOL. Try and get your blown engine repaired out of warranty even if you had the dealer do all the servicing.
Thank you for being straight to the point with proof as backup. A+++ amazing.
Logically, if you want to wipe your hands, do you use "a dirt or a clean" "tissues/wipes" ?
The same thing goes to how to clean inside the engine. You have to use pure things to clean in general with a few good steps.
Anyhow, I do believe that the best way to "flush/ clean" inside the engine is :
1- Drain an old oil and oil filter.
2- Add new oil & new oil filter.
3- Add engine flush liquid " any good brand " you trust.
4- Turn on the engine for 10 to 15 minutes . During the operation, don't move your car and don't even push the accelerator " gas pedal " at all.
5- Drain the oil and oil filter again.
6- If your car has "high mileage" , repeat the same procedure twice or even thrice, at the same time.
7- When you finish. Add the oil and oil filter. That would be the last step.
NOTICE:
Use the cheapest oil , while you do flush engine. I Mean cheap oil for engine flush procedures. The last step, use the best oil brand and original oil filter which would be last for a big while inside your engine. Make it the best, no matter how much does it cost.
Pay a few hundred dollars, then you'll gain more life for your engine.
By the way, some people do prefer add new full synthetic oil and new oil filter many times and do the same steps with no engine flush liquid at all. They consider the additives of full synthetic oil, enough to flush / clean inside the engine itself.
I mean , they clean their engines by using good quality oil and oil filter many times at the same time to flush, with no engine flush liquids
. They do believe that the engine flush liquids, make rubber and another stuff inside the engine,,, "dry / worn out" somehow.
Maybe they are alright 🤷🏻♂️
can I just use the same oil filter to drain it twice?
I have the car ramps I use, I have to accelerate to get the car on the ramps for the oil change. What happens if I move the car onto the ramps ?
@@MrYniguez2 you are gunning the engine. Load. Not great. Put on ramps first!
I would add only one thing. Mineral based oils are better for flushing engine because they contain more dispersants and detergents.
Why? Because they break down more and faster and need those additives.
Anyone else lose their mind with the drain plug in the catch pan hahaha. It's completely a trivial point, but I can't be the only who prides themselves on getting that drain plug out without a synthetic oil hand spa treatment lol. Appreciate you taking the time to produce the video, nice overlay with the graphics too.
Ha, I hate when that happens, having to fish out a drain plug in hot oil. I let it fly out for the video though, to show an uninterrupted stream of oil. If you really want some cringe, I changed my oil 6 times in a row, until it turned clear....without catching the drain plug! czcams.com/video/4Ag7H1bge3g/video.html
@@OwenLucas 🤣🤣🤣 too funny! Should I come across that video I'll do my best to restrain myself haha
Omg I thought it was just me that felt that way! 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Fumoto valves
I use a magnetic tool grabber extended out once I get it loosened to the point of coming out and just use the magnet at a distance to spin it the rest of the way.
Did my 09 pilot with this same process this weekend. Engine is noticeably more responsive. 150k miles. I believe Liqui Moly is a good quality product.
You have very steady hands, not a drop spilled on the valve cover. Great job, you should have been a surgeon.
Thanks! 👍
He is... a car surgeon.
I was thinking the same. I spill everywhere and always a big gust of wind comes out of nowhere as soon as I begin pouring.
This is the most accurate video about flushing engine oil on CZcams.
One of the best flush videos I’ve seen.
Thank you!
Anyone who leaves their oil in for 20k miles is insane🤦
The final oil fill was with Mobile 1 Extended Performance High Mileage Synthetic. Designed to last 20k miles or 1 year. If I notice any issues I'll change the engine oil early but I think it will be fine. I'm going to complete an oil analysis once the 20k is completed so stay tuned!
@@OwenLucas why not do an analysis at 10k and then again at 20k? If the oil isn't doing its job well, then you'll know sooner before doing more damage than just letting things go.
@@OwenLucas yeah and a box of pizza is supposed to last the night but that never happens now does it
Change oil evry 6k best engine last longer
@@owen8538 sh!t i change mine every 3months 😅 but then again I love the smoothness of my Engine sales goes with my transmission oil every 3 months
Great video. I just did it on a 2011 Volvo S60 T6 with 148k kms. I bought the car used with 113k kms a couple of years ago and after replacing the PCV/Oil catch and seeing some sludge I decided to do the flush. The oil is so clean now that I can barely see it's level on the stick. I'll do it on my '16 CX9 soon too
Does it perform way better?
So during this flushing, which oil filter is in the car? The used one or new one. Thanks
Do you have any manual videos how to do ?? I have same car ... dealer is asking $1500 to tune up
@@babagandu The video just showed you lol.
How many oil filters did you use in the oil change process?
Short and sweet, It's hard to videos which are too the point ... Great job man!!! kudos
Thanks this is really helpful, I’ll do.
Very clearly presented the correct procedure of using Motor Flush Oil.
Thank you very much.
Thank you!
Liquimoly makes a dam good product used one of their products on a corvette with a nasty lifter tick, made it run smooth as silk and never ticked again
It would’ve being good to see what the engine oil looked like after 10 minutes of running it and then drain that well compared to the previous oil change
I was thinking the same thing
nothing changed inside the valve cover 308,000 km driven audi a4 b5 which has once had a long life service nad dirty engine. the oil was black and had to be changed a few times, but visually nothing changed
After how many km do you change the oil?
I have done the last 3 oil changes every 5000 kilometers. Now the engine is open because of the valve lifters and the chain tensioner change, and at the same time the oil sump was opened. absolutely terrible condition all places, although I have been using cleaning oils recently (mobile1 5w30 esp) . surprisingly, the oil pump strainer was not blocked.
@@TheMadeBlade so it didn't help either. Did your engine use oil?
I have to give you props for pouring the flush chemical and oil without a funnel and making ZERO mess!
what i did is put haf a qt of diesel in the same engine you flushed ran it for 15 min idle and had great results...that was 3 years ago and still running amazing today...also noticed it got quieter over time
I subscribed because this is the right procedure to do. Thanks for sharing.
Just purchased a used 2005 car.first flush at 100 miles 2nd flush 500 3rd flush at 1000 miles using marvel mystery oil.now premium oil and filters for a long happy life with no sludge!!!
See Through Engine Oil Filter: czcams.com/video/bvmT7UCWA2Y/video.html
Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush: amzn.to/3o93BMP
Changed my oil 6 times in a row: czcams.com/video/4Ag7H1bge3g/video.html
Step by step double flush procedure:
1. Pour 1 can of Liqui Moly into your engine.
2. Run engine for 10 Minutes, idle speed, do not drive.
3. Drain oil and change filter.
4. Refill oil to full capacity and run engine for 10 minutes or go for a short drive.
5. Drain oil again (to remove any remaining old oil and left over sludge) and change filter.
6. Add new oil and you are finished.
So you changed the filter twice?
@@NadeemKhan-cn6fx Yes, because you don't want your new filter to be full with flushed out stuff.
Yes, the filter was changed twice to capture any sludge or residue.
Thank for guide.🙏🙏
Is it just okay not to replace and just retain the filter at step no. 5? After provide to step number 6 ?
I've only read about this on forums. Thank you for explaining this method and listing the steps.
Glad it was helpful!
Good video, excellent advice
ASE Certified Tech here 👍👌
I am more impressed at the neatness and accuracy of your poured oil from a 5 gallon container was!
Haha thanks!
Very informative
That's wild how dirty the second flush was, still!
I will just use Liqui-Moly before each oil change , no additional change of oil and filter . Oil stays very clear and at 7500 miles when I change it . It comes out as your second oil change . I use Pennzoil Platinum / Ultra Platinum oil and a Amsoil Filter . I will take up to two hours to change oil / filter , letting as much oil drain out as possible .
I used to work in a fleet... not sure if letting oil drain for two hours achieves anything that 20 minutes drain time wouldn't. Of the engines I've torn apart for various reasons, even some that had been sitting for weeks, at least half cup to a cup of old oil always was still inside the engine anyway.
A+ pouring skill.
diesel fuel is the cheapest and oldest engine cleaner,just don't mix too much of it
Good job, i did exactly the same on my Passat CC 3.6 V6 because Volkswagen use 5w30 long life oil and I don't like this oil.
So I use Motul Engine Flush, after the first oil draining I put cheap 5w40 with a new oil filter, then I drive about 5 kilometers my car to drain a new time 5w40 oil.
To finish I use Castrol 5w40 VW 502.00 505.00 oil with Purflux oil filter and my engine doesn't make the same sound as before, it works vert well without any oil consumption.
Now I will replace oil and aller filters every year or every 10000 kilometers.
Sorry for my English i'm French !
Your English is great! It is interesting to see the different products people use in Europe. Glad to hear your engine is running nice and smooth, may it run many more miles!
Short video and clear for understanding ! Thank you !
You are welcome!
Car will run forever getting this treatment 👍🤝
I change my engine every 3000-5000 km, saves having to flush and it runs smooth.
Am i the only one thinking when watch this video, he put oil to the engine without using funnel and its amazing.
Did this to my 2.0 TFSI A6 C6 today. An extra flush like you said with a new filter. Car is running smoother than ever before.
do u wait a while before doing the second flush? thanks
@@brenny902 No, I just ran the car 20 minutes with the new fresh oil and then changed it again.
@@DDtch6669 thanks bro
Thank you for your video. Very useful and informative.
Thank you for watching!
I’m currently trying to help out my 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 with 306,800 miles (5.3L L33 V8.) Put Seafoam in the oil, ran an extremely high concentration of it for about 20-25 miles in the gas tank as well (26 ounces to about 3 gallons of gas.) Did the intake spray as well.
The past two oil changes I’ve done them 2,500 miles apart. I put Seafoam in at 1,200 miles and once I hit 1,500 miles I am going to add Rislone engine treatment and let it idle/low rpm drive through the neighborhood. After, I plan on draining all oil and maybe even pouring a quart or two through it just to get whatever’s loose at the bottom of the oil pan.
After watching this video I’m going to buy cheap oil and a filter and let it pick up all the detergents and residual sludge/loose carbon. Hadn’t of done it if I didn’t see this.
Thanks!!
Wow your engine will be super clean. Congrats on hitting 300k!
If you drain the oil after flush whilst engine is still hot leave it for 5mins the chemicals actually burn off, by design of the product. You can simply flush again with oil to be extra safe but you don’t actually need to!
I'll be honest - my first comment 2 years ago was a troll comment. My way of flushing my diesel vehicle (EGR deleted) is to drop the oil, and refill with a cheaper oil (I used a mercedes oil mb229.51 because it's cheap) While I wait for a delivery of correct oil from Germany (Liqui moly). It's a volvo xc70 d5 that uses 0w30.
The MB oil that comes out is obviously black but is definitely cleaner, but the liqui moly oil that goes in stays clean for up to 2000 miles before picking up a darker tinge That is when I change my filter too. I think on a well maintained engine like yours, you really don't need to use any flush.
You simply don't give sludge or buildup a chance to take hold. If it makes you feel better, I would use a diesel specific oil to use as a flush oil before you do your long term oil change. It has more detergents in it to help remove the emissions equipped "Acidity" from the EGR system. But if it's not equipped or deleted? It's a great flushing oil.
You could keep and re-use it, but because the Merc oil is cheap, I just simply dispose of it... It's served its use of a 100-500 mile engine flush.
Removing the inlet manifold/rocker cover on the d5 engine at 190,000 miles reveals it looking "as new".
Thanks for the video.
I used to flush with new oil after each engine flush but I since learned that the oil flush solution is designed to evaporate after you add new oil and drive the car. The specific temperatures of the solution are way lower than the driving temperature of the engine. However, you do need to flush with new oil if this is your first motor flush as the video shows. I actually flushed multiple times until my oil came out looking identical to the newly added oil. Then afterwards, I simply flushed every 3rd oil change and added new oil without the oil flush.
Best way.
@Boris yes. Smoother engine and quieter. Tiny bit better throttle response. Highy recommended. Ignore the naysayers.
I was thinking to try liqui moly flush on my father's car. Is it safe to use for old car? My father normally change his engine oil on time but is it safe to flush it? Any advice?
@@laraangelic3503 i just flushed a 1988 BMW 528e and it’s fine. Every car is different though so no idea what the history of your dad’s car is.
@@laraangelic3503 if it’s more than 30 years old I’d be careful
Change your oil every 5k and this shouldn't have to be performed unless you really like the car and plan on keeping it for a long time. As a dealership tech I can tell you that MOST do not care this much about their vehicles. If they did I'd never have work.
Some parts are just junk from the factory. You'd be fine.
@@ABeans07 😂😂😂
I own an 05 Civic with oil consumption. Would this be reccomended to do on the engine? I've been told that flushing the engine could cause more oil to be dispursed & that'll create an even bigger problem. I plan on using the Liquid-Moly Anti Friction, but would the flush alone protentially cause more problems? Thanks. V-TEC engine @ 170k btw
@@dbzownz12345 in your case I'd think possible piston ring issues, they may be worn and there were issues around your year range with blocks leaking from the factory and head gaskets blowing. The block leak was a recall so I'd doubt that's an issue and a blown head gasket is pretty noticable so u doubt it's that. So I'd focus on sealing any leaks and then see how it consumes. If it still a serious issue after that I'd recommend piston rings.
@@alleyesopen7776 What's the best product you'd suggest for sealing the leaks? I've ben told to use Rislone (yellow bottle) or their Compression Ring Sealer or Liquid Moly Anti Friction. Also heard Seafoam HM formula could prevent blow by as well, thoughts? Thanks.
Irv Gordans went 3,000,000 miles with oil changes every 3,000 miles. A good way to know when to change your oil is if you begin not to see your oil level lines on the dip stick through the oil. It’s time to change oil and filter. Over fifty five years using this method and never ever had an engine fail. When I sold the vehicles people commented my engines as being the best seen and heard. I would reply thank you I take care of my vehicles.
Very very very informative
Totally agree - second flush with cheap oil - Warm the engine first (Diesel) - Don't forget to change your oil filter after you drop the fist oil&flush out the engine
So I have to buy 2 filtres? One for the flash and the other one for using it after
Life of an engine is in its oil!
Good job on the video, thank you for posting.
Thank you for watching!
I always use my garden hose! Works for me.
Funny, I was thinking about flushing my ML55 and whether I should flush it again with regular oil. And just like that this video was in my recommended section. I guess I will do a second flush with regular oil after seeing the discoloration of the oil coming out after the second flush. Get it out! Thanks for the video!
These cell phones listen to us man! 💀
@@edubb2491 Propably! In this case it was a good thing... o_0
I appreciate the oil states could last 20k miles, I would never leave my next oil change that long. I don't flush my engine on my vehicles, I just do regular servicing at intervals given, both vehicles happy at 200k plus.
Thanks for sharing. The 20k oil will be analyzed by Blackstone Labs once it reaches that point to see if there is any life left in it and how it did overall. So well see in a few months!
For my cars, and for other people that they care about their engines in Poland, 10k kilometers is the limit. Compared to The high mileage 20k miles shit
@@hubertgorlewski2404 exactly
I change my oil 6k as is cheaper to do oil and filters rather than engine rebuild
Excellent idea
Totally agree with your, process.
Good video, using Liqui Moly or Forte engine flush is good stuff. After the flush I always use cheapest oil I can get (even semi of non synthetic will do) , new filter, run for two minutes. Drain. If oil is still dirty, I repeat the procedure.
Last oil and filter is high grade. Also I use Forte fuel additive for cleaning fuel system, fuel tank and add seal conditioner.
Never had problems. Even with engines that had not run for years - use fogging oil prior first start up!
Great tip!
Looks like a second flush is needed on every oil change by the looks!
Thanks
GREAT VID!👍
I agree with your method. Flush the engine will release gunk which won't come out without an extra oil change.
There are some flush products that are meant to used for ~100miles before oil change, since their chemicals are not so harsh on the parts. I think I would trust them more. Engine gaskets are sensitive parts which could lead to very expensive repairs. Never done an engine flush though. I prefer using good oils and shorter change intervals. Great video 👍
I personally do this method every oil change and the oil stays clean for a long while after changes. Get the engine hot, add a quart of diesel, idle for 10 minutes, and finally drain. It gets a whole lot more stuff out and doesn’t cost much. Doing a flush with cheap oil is very wasteful.
@@markm0000 well oil and filter is only around 40 bucks. But I’ll let people do what they want
Engine flush will destroy engines with wet cambelts
@@gamesmaster1060why
@@andyrendon7753 For my car, 9 liters of oil, its 100,- euro's in oil.
I've done this once. Too much extra work, in my opinion. Instead, I now use Full Synthetic only and do my oil changes more frequently at every 4 K mile intervals. The internals of the engine looked squeaky clean when I opened it up for valve cover gasket replacement. 100K miles, all good, knock-on-wood.
Over 100k miles of this engine was filled with full synthetic so what you see is an accumulation over the years. 4k oil change intervals should keep the inside of your engine nice and bright!
@@OwenLucas
A Nissan engineer took apart engines that had oil changes at various mileage intervals. He recommended changing your oil after just 2000 miles (3200 km) for the best possible protection.
very useful to add insight and knowledge
Glad it was helpful!
Good job.
That was an expensive oil change! I do something similar every 4 or 5 changes because I buy 5L of oil each time and save whatever is leftover for the periodic second flush. I use a LiquiMoly flush, then I run the cocktail of leftover oils with a cheap filter for 500 miles before doing the proper change. I also jack the car up at all kinds of angles to get more out of the sump lol. Perhaps OCD, but I enjoy doing it. I've also tried the LiquiMoly Sludge flush which you run in the engine for around 100 miles.
That's a very good approach, you must have a super clean engine! I just got a can of the sludge remover, not easy to get in the US, it came over from the UK, can't wait to try it out!
I also get 5 L canisters and my car takes 4 Litres. I just measure out a litre and when the draining oil is almost all out I just flush the pan out by adding the litre with the drain plug out.
Probably not necessary to try to get every last drop of dirty oil. You can't do it unless you want to take apart the whole engine. I learned this when I took apart my 1988 Nissan pickup, it had 180,000 miles on it and only 100K of those miles were mine. I changed the oil every 3 months like clockwork and here is what I found when I took the engine apart to do in-car overhaul: the timing chain was like new (although the tensioner was chewed up but not all the way gone). The connecting rod bearings were like new, and no ridge at the top of the cylinder (as happens on under-maintained engines). The piston rings were still fine but I changed them anyway (after honing the cylinders). In short the engine had no sludge deposits and little noticeable wear, you'd need a micrometer to measure any. Changing oil too often is the better course of action, to me.
Top tip. You don't have to use engine oil flush if you change your oil regularly. 5k miles for regular oil and 10k miles on synthetic oil. Change your oil people.
My oil was changed regularly for the past 15 years, at some point gunk and sludge will form from heavy use. It wasn't too bad on my car but imagine a taxi idling all day or a work truck towing heavy loads day in day out.
3k on regular oil/5k on synthetic oil
@@barrypowell829 I usually go a little over 3K with regular oil or synthetic blend. 10K between oil changes seems to be temping fate. I assumed there is some small print that says "Up to" right before the 10K recommendation with synthetic oil.
I probably change mine too early, a habit I picked up from my Dad. His theory was he never saw an engine fail because the oil was too clean.
Got a 2006 Corolla and have 260k miles on it. Never had a problem aside from a worn out clutch had to replace it on 190k. Modern oils have detergents that will clean your engine. Please stop using engine flush, you will scar the bearings and crankshaft. By the way I forgot to say it's 5k and 10k highway miles. If you live on NYC or LA with traffic you should change your oil early. Try to check the dipstick every week to see if it's already black. Drive safe everyone.
Can't argue with that. I watch a lot of these videos and read a lot about car maintenance. There's a lot of things i wanted to try including engine flushes just to make myself think i was doing something amazing to keep my car tiptop. After consuming so much information, i came to realise no, it's actually just that simple. The best quality oil does all the work for you. You just got to keep it there fresh and clean every 12000km in my case. Anything beyond is just trying to do something to tell yourself damn I'm so good at maintaining my car, look at all this these things I'm doing
Very nice video on engine flush great info shared practically 👌
Glad it was helpful!
Great video.
I've always changed my oil every 5000km and flush it 3 times instead of two. I know it seems overkill but both my cars run smoothly and have never caused me any issues.
Same I always change mine at 5000km mileage(about 2-3mth) and I'll do a full flush once a year which after the 1st flush I'll do another(2nd) final flush on 500km mileage and the every flush costs me about MYR160 Malaysian ringgit(about USD40). Most people not consider flushing but to have smooth ride I thought it is the best way
@Christopher Tan Yeah twice! Same brand and type. It's kinda sound stupid but rather not to use flush additive because it'll affecting the seals lifespan. I'll do it once a year on year end
@@yeongkarsoon481 But i think the vendor of engine flush has considered about the seal/rubber issue. Now Days in Indonesia, the authorized service use engine flush as the part of periodic service.
I changed my oils every 15000km since 2004 on my ford falcon. No engine flush and now have 600000 km on original engine.
@@yeongkarsoon481 is it problem if we use to drive 500km or more after 1st flush or recommend to change for 2nd flush immediately?
I do the extra flushing by blowing out the dirty oil using a small leaf blower with moderate power plugged in from the top engine inlet with clean rags. I've noticed it was able to blow away almost half a quart of dirty oil that doesn't drain with gravity alone. The only downside is oil is blowing all throughout the ground.
That is an interesting approach! I guess if you tape a bag around the drain hole it could prevent it from spraying and catch everything for easy disposal.
If you do tape à bag, make some holes on the top for air to escape
And the dust the leaf blower might be sucking up blowing it in the engine 😅
I’ve always wondered this too .
Be careful using these chemicals It could knock off sludge and if it’s a chunk it could get caught in a very small clearances of the engine. Instead use something like Castrol GTX ultra clean oil. It’s not a harsh cleaning. Change the oil every two thousand miles a couple of times. That way it’s slower but safer. Just my opinion.
Have you seen hot shots secret stiction oil treatment? What that does is turns the sludge and chunks of carbon back into a liquid for the car to easily expose of them. I'm waiting for some to arrive to try out as many people are talking about there products
Excellent view point. While adding the flush. Should i need to remove existing oil by the volume of flush we are adding. My engine oil is 3.8L capacity. Planning to use Liqui moli flush
Yes I filled up the engine oil completely each time and it is fine to use the flush with the original old oil. 👍
@@OwenLucas 😊 Thanks
I'm gonna do this to my 06 WRX. I feel like it really needs this.
I'm gonna get a 2nd oil change tomorrow due to this vid. I had some acetone flush in the engine two days ago. Got first oil change today. thanks
Good luck!
After flushing,I asked to pour half liter of mobil oil from new pack as my TOYOTA probox need 3.5 liters of mobil oil.The mechanic poured in half liter first and drained it straight bringing down the black particle left in crankcase.After that he poured the remaining 3.5 ltrs and gooo
@@ijaztariq2541 yeah I added 250 ml of nano boron nitride as lubricant and 300 ml of molybdenum (Liquid Moly) - so I had an extra 1/2 quart out of 7 quarts total. Normally this is supposed to be fine for my oil pan since it has a front pickup tube and that extra oil prevents lack of oil during quick acceleration throwing the oil to the back of the pan. But the Liquid Moly or molybdenum had this magnetic induction effect where it got sucked into the spark plug wells past the piston rings - since the Liquid Moly is nano size. So in other words I was supposed to drive the engine for 10 minutes to work in the boron nitride - and the engine sounded terrible. The next day I was idling at the auto parts store contemplating what to do and the "service engine soon" light kicked on and then the engine stalled out!
So I drove to the oil change quick lube where I had just had the new synthetic oil put in the night before. They insisted that I just take out the extra 1/2 quart of oil by changing out the filter since they didn't want to replace that fresh 7 quarts of oil. So I played along with that and drove off - no charge - new filter - and the Service light came on again - flashing.
So I got another oil change at a different quick lube place - and the service light still came on. By this time I had checked the code and I got misfire in cylinder six. So I then cleaned out that spark plug well - and it was all black from the molybdenum!! I still had a general misfire after I replaced the spark plug. So then I cleaned out ALL the spark plug wells and replaced all the spark plugs. STILL had a general misfire - only now it was Flashing.
So then I realized I had damaged my catalytic converter - since I also did another engine flush and then I tried to clean out the catalytic converter with lacquer thinner. Since that didn't work then I got a $200 new cat and got it welded in by the muffler shop for $200. STILL got the cylinder six misfire flash and it went away.
Engine still sounded terrible and like it had valve damage or maybe rod damage. So I tried adding some MORE boron nitride and then I got the misfire code again - this time solid and not flashing.
So I drove to this one mechanic and he said that the new catalytic converter is working fine but the cylinder six misfire is intermittent - so it's NOT a valve or rod knock! This was a huge relief to me. He said maybe I needed to replace the ignition coil. In fact I had just put in all new ignition coils - but he said maybe that one was bad. So I ordered 1 nice Delphi OEM ignition coil. It took too long to get it so I switched out the cylinder six ignition coil - with cylinder two. Misfire was still there.
So I bought a 2nd new ignition coil locally and misfire was still there.
Finally I removed the cylinder six spark plug - it's behind the firewall so you can't see it. The porcelain on the plug was cracked - and I was not sure if I cracked it when taking it out. That particular plug for my engine is too long to use the spark plug socket. So when I put in the NEW spark plug again I did not torque it to spec since that seemed to be putting to much torque at the wrong angle - since that cylinder is hard to get at.
Sure enough NOW finally the misfire was gone and the engine works - apparently fine now. In fact the lifter ticking noise seems to be better for sure than before - so all that engine flushing and snake oil seemed to clean out the engine after all.
Still I do have another 250 ml of boron nitride - and I could add a bit to it - but I have learned my snake oil lesson for now. haha.
Once in a while I drive 500 miles on cheap oil, drain it and the oil looks new. Amazing what taking care of an engine accomplishes.
clean/dirty looking oil doesn't mean anything dude, only a 'used oil analysis' can be trusted.
What a waste of time and money
I absolutely agree. I do exactly the same thing. I find that just draining it and filling up with new oil straight away doesnt change anything It still looks just as dirty on the dipstick as the old worn out oil. all the contaminants stay on the bottom of the pan, on the engine parts on the block and then it just contaminates the new oil straight away.
Usually oil should be changed right after driving as most contaminants will be suspended in the oil rather than settling into the pan.
@@bryanmartinez9848 yep exactly. While its hot. Its better straight away
absolutly 100% correct
Thank you sir for your great content..watching here.. Nice tips for everyone..
Thanks for visiting!
If you are doing oil changes every 20k miles, I am not surprised it comes out so dirty. Its better to change the oil every 3k to 5k instead of 20k and not have to worry about flushing the sludge and varnish out.
Wow! Finally someone uses his brain lol! I always said this is the best way but ppl always say it's ofc a bit more expensive. Few ppl really LOVE their car or cars in general.
Perfect mate!
Exactly! Thank for watching!
Great video
Thanks!
You can use the mobil1 used for flushing as engine oil for like lawnmowers, atv's, generators, things thet don't need high quality oil.
I've always thought of this and seeing someone else do it convinces me that I'm not being overly careful haha. My second thought is would it be safe to buy the cheapest filter for the first oil flush? Because i like to use genuine filters but I'd hate to waste one just for the first oil flush.
Yes since you're using it for minutes only, the cheapest filter will work great.
@@FroztiProductions not to mention that you are just letting the engine idle. I won't use a Purolator filter. They pack so much filter material that yes oil comes out of it cleaner... I have also seen an oil pressure DROP of over 10 pounds with one. I'll change my oil when I'm supposed to, to keep it clean and use a Good Fram filter and keep my oil pressure too. I drive a lot at higher rpms and oil pressure is your best friend(and Good brakes!)!
Ya'll Take care and be safe, John
@@JohnDoe-pv2iu lol so what happens when you use it on a Toyota that doesn't need more than 10psi like this Scion haha
Of course, for that purpose I can't think of any reason NOT to use el cheapo oil filter when its running 20 minutes and getting changed. I'd even buy a fram for that lol (they're the worst)
Mobil1 also has strong detergents in it as well. It's a high quality oil. I have spoken to people who work in Mobil oil products and they said the closest competitor in qualify is the Penzoil Ultra Platinum. They also said each brand actually picks different oil characteristics to be the best in. They didn't dive into specifics but said some brands might clean better, while others might fight heat better, and so. They said the Mobil approach was to be the best overall and balanced in each category.
Those are great points!
Pennzoil Ultra visibly started to clean the varnish in my engine in 2 oil changes. Can't recommend it enough.
Valvoline, Motul, and Amsoil top also
@@babagandu tmkc gandubaba
Walmart Super Tech has all the same fancy numbers and letters as the big boy companies. It’s API approved and has the seal to prove it. You like pretty bottles and logos and the higher price impressions you and makes you sleep better at night then buy it. Change your oil yourself every five thousand miles for about $30.00. Walmart full synthetic oil five quart jug about $21.00 and a K&N Mobil One or any quality filter total runs about $30.00. Do it yourself.
I like to clean the throttle-body and idle stabiliser while the flush is running in the engine. Gets all the blowby gunk from around the outside of the injectors off.
Since we give the car for service pickup, we couldn't be sure if they do Liqui Moily engine flush. Can we pour in thé same and then drive down to service centre for oil change? Will it cause any problem?
Mechanic here 15 plus years. Use the BG brand EPR engine flush no need to do an extra oil change. Safe for enigne and seals. Good idea to flush newer vehicles every other service.
Disagreed. Use Synthetic and either the OEM filter or a Purolator Pure or BOSS and change every 5,000. You won't have a sludge issue
engine flush will destroy some engines with wet cambelts
Nice explanation. I have a Mitsubishi Lancer 2005 with 100k miles and I was planning to treat it with the engine flush, for the first time. However, I've seen other videos in which they suggest avoiding the use of these additives because, according to them, they can mess the seals and carry aggregates to places where they should not be. However, I see you used it on a similarly aged engine ...
I have not experienced any problems so far, runs just fine. Liqui Moly's website states: "Neutral to seals and other materials installed in the engine".
Look at other sources and make an informed decision. From my experience and reading, yes seal leams and engine problems can occur after flushing.
I agree also if you didnt build the engine i wouldnt recomend flushing it unless it is pivital to fixing a existing problem. I found after flushing a engine that where prior mechanics had used black rtv silicon that the silicon became soft elastic mushy and started leaking oil permanently where there was a good seal before the flush. I recomend not doing it unless you know all the engine parts will be able to handle it..
I used it on my 359,000 mile Honda CRV and it made it run great. Also added Ceratec in the new oil. Your car will be fine lol
Unless you have a problem, just throw in seafoam, marvel mystery oil, or another such product a few hundred miles before the change.
Its not as aggressive and people have done it for half a century with no problems
I gotta do that to my 200k 6.0 vortec nice job
How much motor oil was inside before adding the liquid moly ? Do I need to at some oil and the liquid moly for the flush? And much much oil would I need to add with the liquid moly in a car that carry’s 5.5l of motor oil ? I have a c180k w204 1.8l
Great process. We use Justice Bros lubricants and flushes at our shop here and it's amazing how dark the oil is after doing their oil cleaner product.
I’m sure the guys at molly have thought about there product staying in the oil , oil is a cleaner as well as a lubricant, and even a cooler of some sort , what is left in there shouldn’t be worried about , it will come out with the next oil change , or , through a breather
nice job
I did this 1 time extra re fill, run idle and 2nd drain.. it still has those black and residue from the old oil and other materials
i never had to flush the engine as i used to change the oil every 5000km even if the oil can be used for more mileage however im now using diesel engine oil which have more solvents.. the results are unbelievable at replacing the valve cover gasket the valve cover and cams were so clean
U are using diesel engine oil for petrol car ?
@@visharadsudans yes I do as well. Running diesels rotella t6 for the past 5 years on my Miata and the lifter tick has gone away and with no issues.
@@eviltwiiin wat are the benefits of using diesel oils in petrol cars ?
@@visharadsudans like the guy above said, diesel oil has more detergents.
When I replaced the valve cover on my 2001 BMW at 170k Miles everything was sparkly clean in there. No oil residue build up whatsoever.
I think modern engines, if oil is changed regularly, don't have as much gunk in there as people think. I replaced oil every ~8k miles
It sounds really weird but I actually use royal purple after chem flush due to how many specialized conditioners and aggressive detergents it has. Run it a hundred miles or so and then start your cheaper flushes, or just stick with the purple if that floats your boat, I'm an amsoil guy myself. It's more expensive, but it's the way to go.
Uea but purple leaves a white corrosive residue behind on metal and aluminum
@Highlights Unleashed I never use true aluminum LS's buy only iron block lm7s and sbc and LA chrysler and Magnums. I have NEVER seen white sediment from royal purple and I have no problems talking trah on royal bc I an AMSOIL guy. The shit works fine and actually concerned why you're getting white chalk in your builds
Not talking shit I have aluminum upper intake manifold and I tried using it as a degreaser and it caused it get this chalky white powder all over it. I was like you got to be f@@in kidding me 😂 I trying to clean it not get it dirty.
@@-OokySpooky- That 'chalk' is the cleaner eating the aluminum... Those types of cleaners have to be thoroughly rinsed off raw aluminum or this is the result. Scrub the snot out of it with hot soapy water, that probably won't remove all the oxidization but should prevent it from getting worse. So be careful where you put the Purple! That's all I'm saying
@@-OokySpooky- who said I had Ls engine 😂 I was talking about purple
Thank you, very interesting video :)
I consider doing this for my Honda's "10 year" oil change, 10 years with only basic oil change and 135 000 kilometers, a good flush won't hurt :)
Sounds like you should have some good results! Enjoy and good luck!
@@OwenLucas Thank you :)
I wanted to simply use an additive, but you convinced me than I should also do a flush after that, to remove the remaining additive, and the remaining super-dirty oil inside, the color of your flushing oil was eye-opening about how much residue stays in the engine after just a basic oil change.
Five stars video!
For the second filling, the engine oil should use any grade or same grade? If yes, can different brands mix together but the grade is the same?
Yes, the same oil weight, brand name doesn't matter.
Excellent question.I got a few different brands laying around same grade that I well wanna use and get rid of.