Huntsman House Style | With Huntsman Tailor Ralph Fitzgerald
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- Kirby Allison, Founder of Hanger Project, had the opportunity to visit Huntsman's cutting room in New York. It is the first cutting room to be opened by a Savile Row tailor outside of London. Huntsman tailor, Ralph Fitzgerald, takes us through the details of their Huntsman House Style and their iconic silhouettes.
H. Huntsman & Sons is a high-end fashion house and tailor located at No. 11 Savile Row, London. It is known for its English bespoke menswear tailoring, cashmere ready-to-wear collections, and leather accessories.
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www.huntsmansa...
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One of my materialistic goal in life is to get a bespoke suit by Huntsman.
pavan kallurkar Same!
Kirby Allison I’m having my first fitting with Ralph in two weeks!
How much they worth?
shnill £5,000+ but it’s well worth it, they make some wonderful suits
I'm rooting for you!
One of the reasons why I could never live in New York: I would go broke with the flyest wardrobe
I like Ralph, he knows his stuff and keeps it real!
Fascinating. The drape cut appeals to me more but the huntsman style always looks great on a manikin.
Kirby it’s like you are timing these perfectly. Your G&G video was the week of my trial shoe fitting with Daniel, I have a first fitting with huntsman this Sunday!
Tell them hello when you see them!
So interesting to see the different measurements there taking to get certain details right.
Selwyn L Yes! I want surprised to see Ralph talk about the house style in terms of specific measurements and proportions! Really makes me want one of their single button jackets!
I also have taken a lot more interest in a single button jacket/suit after seeing this.
This channel and sartorial talks are helping me to really appreciate the craftsmanship of a bespoke suit... shoes and garments. I've never had the experience of a tailor house... but one day I will & thanks to your guidance I won't feel so uncomfortable with interacting with fitting process & recommendations.
Daniel Durham Hugo runs a great channel!
Nice interview. Thanks. I am enjoying your series of interviews with bespoke tailors, shoemakers etc. Keep up the good work.
Hopefully more coming!
Im more fond of the Chittleborough and morgan styling cut.. it would be EXTREMELY intresting for you to visit Edward Sexton once you're in London! Breathtakingly gorgeous stuff!
You're really into the curved lapel right?
Thanks Kirby, wonderful looking jacket.
Love your channel! Keep up the great work!
David Sewell Thanks!
Very glad I found your channel, great job and thanks!
Wish I could afford such a suit.
Sell a couple kilo's of heroin and you can get one!
respect
Will there be a video that serves as a follow up?
Another fantastic video, thank you Kirby! I have an unrelated question, though. I have been noticing small holes and tears apper in some of my shirts, specially in the back and the underarm areas. Any idea why that might happen? I always put my dress shirts in a delicates bag when I wash them and I’m very careful when I iron them.
This is probably more due to stress on the seams while you're wearing the shirt, not a problem with laundry. Maybe it's time to add a little extra room... I've had to add some to to my shirts recently.
Lovely rolled lapel
Great video! Looking forward to the next one!
Hi Kirby,
Excellent video indeed! Could you introduce other famous house style (such as Anderson & Sheppard's, Liverano's, etc)?
BTW it seems that the pitch of your jacket sleeves is a bit off?
Hello Wongheichi. I’m trying to learn as much as possible about men’s tailoring. Could you please explain to me what you mean about Kirby’s pitch of his jacket sleeves being off? Thanks!
OlWhaleNZ
The sleeves are attached to the armhole of the jacket at a certain angle (the pitch). For a bespoke jacket, that angle should follow the angle at which our arms joint (if that is the right word) our body / shoulder when we naturally rest our arms. For example, someone may have his arms leaning forward; someone else's (say a soldier's) may be almost 90 degree to his shoulder. The jacket should accommodate that to look smooth.
You may refer to this post from the Parisian Gentleman:
parisiangentleman.co.uk/academy/do-your-sleeves-hang-low-how-sleeve-pitch-can-make-or-break-a-suit/
Hi Kirby. I really enjoy your video when you go and visit famous bespoke tailors. One question. Are there any bespoke tailors in the UK whose house style is a suit with relatively low gorge and wide lapels (not too wide)? e.g. Anderson and Sheppard's house style have skinny lapel.
sexton would be a option IMO
Anderson and Sheppard's can do any lapel you want, bring in a picture and they can do it. Literally anything you want granted you can afford it. That is the thing with bespoke, you can literally cut, and style the fabric any which way. Finding experienced tailor to get it right on 1st, 2nd, 3rd, ... 5th jacket is more diffiuclt. At anderson you literally have the best in world and experience, so. But it will be expensive probably.
What your talking about is a southern Italian tailor. Try a Neapolitan or Sicilian tailor.
Ha you hardly have to go to italy for that, and not at all necessary requiring a neapolitan style tailor. doing wider lapels is probably about the esiest adjustment there is to cutting for a customer's preferences. It's a flat 2 dimensional change, compared to the endless list of other styles the customer may want catered to.
Though italians do fine work I must admit.
6:50 A Huntsman tailor with Oxxford Clothes measuring tape . . .
Tyler Sanborn Funny how those things stick around... was at a fitting with Dimitri Gomez in London and he has an old Stanley Korshack shoe horn from when he was traveling with Cleverley who knows how long ago....
Never been so early! Keep it up! :D
Calvary is a hill in Jerusalem, the military organization is cavalry.
It was a missed opportunity to have someone model in the suit instead of just hanging it on an object.
It unfortunately wasn't made for me...
The Hanger Project Thanks for the video. Keep up the content.
Ralph is pronounced "Rayf". At least, that is the correct English pronunciation.
Speaking my best American English...
The lower part of this jacket is full of wrinkles, the stitching seems to close and it does not look good like too many Italian suits .Top part impeccable.
Not happy with the jacket some puckering to the front left also on the back.If they presented me with that at Gieves and Hawkes I would not be happy.
Probably just needs pressing.
Bro is literally Eggsy
Please kill the noise/music. It distracts from the conversation. Get someone that speaks English to transcribe the subtitles. Among other gaffs - ammo instead of the spoken armhole.