The Real Kingsman Tailors đ€”: Huntsman Savile Row | Kirby Allison
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 30. 06. 2024
- Huntsman Tailors, the real-life inspiration for the Kingsman movies, based on Savile Row in London, welcome Kirby Allison in for a personal tour around the shop and the factory below.
Campbell Carey, Huntsman's co-head cutter gives Kirby the guided tour, giving him the history of the company, as well as its origins as inspiration for Hollywood blockbuster spy movies.
Get in touch with Huntsman Tailors:
www.huntsmansavilerow.com/
/ huntsmansavilerow
đž: @ huntsmansavilerow
Shop Hanger Project: www.kirbyallison.com/
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One of my favourite moments of my live was, when I got my suit handed over and was told "welcome to huntsman"
Great showmanship and presentation that.
Kirby these videos are great. But a critique of mine is the way you interview the person. Instead of asking questions or letting the subject answer the questions you make very long monologues and statements. It's great that you know so much about each house, but I think it would be best if you left the explaining to the interviewee. If you want to do more info on each house, maybe state that at the beginning of each video.
Absolutely agree
Yeah really annoying lol
its hard to fault Kirby though, as his technique for interviewing may have developed from interviewees who give short answers. these are experts in their field after all. many of them have secrets they donât want to let go of. when kirby says something it may be easier for them to answer when they realize that theyâre talking to a peer who knows.
s. zebra I disagree. If they allow Kirby to film and interview, they would know his reputation or knowledge of the subject. Moreover, Kirby's monologues are longer than the answers the interviewee gives. So either way the answers given are still short. There are other ways to get people to explain more or talk more than you yourself talking longer than them. I think monologues defeat the purpose of getting long answers from the interviewee, as they feel they have nothing more to add to the discussion, because all that can be said has already been stated by the interviewer.
Jim Ferdinando thats true... and it would be nice to get more of the personality of the interviewee during this sort of thing. its a tough balancing act to do interviews, skew one way too much and its all about you, skew another then theyâll feel like their talking to themselves.
I started my working life at Huntsman in 1976 and clearly recall the very stylish Colin Hammick and the moody Brian Hall who worked the cutting bench behind. There were some real characters working there in the late seventies and some very special and well known clients. I once had to drop some hunting clothes off at Buckingham Palace, and another time had to to go back to the Albany with some Lord to collect three pheasants shot at the weekend. I thought they would be in a bag but instead had to walk along Piccadilly and Regent Street holding these dead birds by their necks.
How did you get into tailoring and start working at Huntsman?
Kirby is like a grown up version of reviewbrah.
@Caesar Ortega agreed
Face looks like he could be Reviewbrahâs older brother.
Itâs funny because itâs true!!
Do you think anyone has told Reviewbrah about Kirby? He might like the reference.
Didnât ya know? Heâs his uncle.
Just had a lovely conversation with Michael of huntsman and he spoke of this very service to which I found most heart warming to know that your children can not only have your cloths but have a service to refit them in a way that truly shows huntsman craft and brilliance in what they do...
Creating memories with a fabric feel...
well now I have to go and watch Kingsman again.. great film, great suits.
I came back to rewatch this video because is so rich in knowledge! Thank you Kirby.
Kirby, absolutely love and appreciate your interviews. You are an excellent interviewer and should be proud of yourself and the information that you provide.
Love seeing the behind the scenes of how fine garments are made. Very detailed and informative interview, and the suits are very nice, Iâd love to upgrade to one someday
My first bespoke was a 3 piece Huntsman in a blue bird's eye cloth from H&S. It is an iconic cut, BUT I'm only 5'8 and the long skirt of the coat does not flatter my frame. I eventually found that Neapolitan cut suits fits me best given my body proportions. It was a $6,000 lesson :-)
Wow, thanks for the excellent comment, Hotspur.
bespoke tailor should have told you :/ /at least I think :D Still waiting for my very first bespoke/
And the tailor didnt tell you that? Isnt that the only thing that sets apart top dollar clothing and just really expensive one? It isnt anymore about quality of materials and such, its about seeing the individual and making best effort of getting the right fitting product just for you.
You people spend money, because the act of spending big buck really seem to be the most important part.
You dont even have the common sense to actually demanding something in return for those extra thousands of dollars.
You blow my mind.
I'm 5"10 and what I just read really is interesting. Tip : shorten the jacket, they can do it, or a good alteration tailor.
I called it. Kirby stars in Kingsman III. Great vid Kirby. So informative.
PAUL F Haha. Yes. If you know any agents, please put us in touch!
I love these videos. Fun to learn about the different houses and the individuals involved.
This video was so great. I loved the movie and to see the shop that inspired it was awesome. I also love the orange suit that was worn in the movie, I hope to get one some day.
Thank you for filming this. Very informative. I will stop by and get a suit the next time I'm in London.
Great!
Fantastic job of the cameraman putting a flag between the camera, light source and Kirby.
Very enjoyable easy & high quality interview. Thank you.
That was fantastic, it illustrated the quality of superb tailoring.
Learned about the importance of a good dry cleaner and the pressing was something I had no idea was that vital to the finished product.
James Cordova good dry cleaning with bad pressing is still bad... proper pressing is essential, which is why I send all of my important dry cleaning to Stu at Rave Fabricare.
Iâm still looking for a good dry cleaner who can press properly. Itâs really been a nightmare.
@@kirbyallison As you're in Texas, would you happen to know a good cleaners in the Houston area?
Thankyou for taking the time to show us behind the scenes of this wonderful world of making very high end clothing
Great video Kirby! I love this format; a video with Dege & Skinner perhaps?
having the patterns of the passed away clients hanging in the atrium is.. eerily beautiful..
I agree. A very nice gesture from Huntsman
Well made video. Love the history and tradition of Huntsman.
Thanks!!
They just opened an Allen Edmonds store around the corner! Thanks for your education .... kinda excited to visit the store with some knowledge.
Wow!đ I had never been to Kingsman Tailor since before, there were lots of assorted different types of delight blazers and jackets.
đŽïžđ©đđđđŒ
Really interesting, though Kirby needs to work on minimising his use of 'you know', it's a bit distracting.
Craig Brown I have that same issue. We all have a tendency to fall back on âfiller wordsâ as a crutch when searching for what to say next.
@@YacDiesel
Maybe phatic words would be a better fit. But meh, same difference.
They're just words which communicate next to no information, but are just used.
One thing which I have snapped out of the habit of using, especially on the phone speaking to clients is "essentially", "basically" and "I feel". It's been hard. But it's a long road to recovery.
Dear Kirby, could you do a video on high quality Italian suits from Attolini, Brioni and Kiton etc.? Either bespoke or RTW? Beeing aware that your focus is primarily on English suits, I would find it particularly interesting, how someone like you with so much knowledge about the British craftsmanship, would compare the quality and finish of the British to the Italian makers. Thanks
Many informative answers to great questions!
A beautiful suit excites me. Even as a boy. I remember watching chuck woolery on love connection just as much to see what suit and watch he was wearing as watching the show.
That is EXACTLY the tie/suit fabric I adore - can anyone clue me in on the type of fabric/colouration of both the suit and tie of the gentleman at Huntsman? Wonderful.
He forgot to get his navy suit for war
I get that reference
@@peach-panther same
đ
Kirby standing next to this very understated distinguished gentleman looked like a little boy playing dress up ...
Kirby in my opinion looks better, those browns make the man blend into the walls, also Kirby hardly looks off the walls in gray white and black (or navy I canât tell). The whole âunderstatementâ part of classic menswear isnât my favorite tradition, it lead to things like business casual and other silly relaxed dress codes. Nothing wrong with not dressing like cream of wheat soup.
Agree. Trying to think why that may be, I believe it's because he is trying to hard. His Suit Color and Tie scream for attention. Also, the Interviewer must be the equivalent of a best Man or Brides maids at a wedding: "Never look better than the Bride". Otherwise you will draw the attention too much onto your person rather than the actual person of interest. This goes for Dresscode as same as the way the Interviewer asks questions and Interview Styles etc.
I can totally agree with you, but mostly because there is a big style comparison. He wears a more business type suit, which personaly looks more casual. And the guy next to him wears a more traditional and elegant suit.
Yeah, harsh but true. He's playing dress up, but I suppose he's doing what makes him happy and doing no harm, so long as it's not an ego trip.
Agree. Kirby seems trying too much to look standing out.
been to the location recently because i am a massive fan of the kingsman films, the street scream class
Kirby I donât know if you read this or not. But please please please consider Jacket construction, different types of interlining of Canvas and other interlinings that is often talked about in your videos but never discussed in detail. They often referred to as different types of canvases and different materials and methods on the inside linings and support materials of the jacket. However I never get to see this type of construction (Or options) of these types of materials I have heard from anything from Canvas to silk from other types of materials. Each one I understand is different for different reasons help us understand the inside of our garment exquisite jacket, thank you very much I love your program!!!!
I love the single button. Very unique.
Campbells tie was beautiful.
Great Interview here Kirby
11:58 those colorful drawings in large frames !
Notice the cleaners coming in @3.03đđ
Youâre doing a great job, Kirby!
The suit that Campbell (the tailor) is wearing looks absolutely amazing. The cut, the fabric, even the tie; everything about it is pure class. What fabric is that? Tweed? It looks so regal compared to Kirby's almost common looking attire.
Yeah, it's a tweed I think. The tie is a wonderful wool tie with a check pattern. I to prefer his outfit over Kirbys'.
Its sitting off his neck tho
I like this huntsman style
Very nice to see and hear. /jf
I'm dying to hear why 4 people didn't like this video. 4 people who presumably have an interest in fine tailoring, disliked a video on some of the finest tailoring available. The mind boggles.
Craig D Iâll never know...
You are one of the extremely few gentlemen who can pull off wearing a hat successfully
I can hear them but I feel they could have increased the volume on the equalizer a bit
One ventures to say that Kirby Allison is simply an anagram for Insipid Fop.
Hi Kirby. Where did you get your stroller suit from? Was it made as an outfit for you or did you make it up from separates?
Thanks
Hello fashion tailors wish you much success
How would you establish the chest size? If this can be established, can we establish a time frame for a navy coloured suit?
I want the tie that Mr. Carey is wearing.
Love the Huntsman Bespoke cut. I noticed no liquids...like a Coke-a-Cola to spill...đź
Great video! Interestingly, heâs collar doesnât hug his neck at the backâŠ.
Dear Kirby,
I absolutely admire your stroller Jacket. May I ask where I can obtain such a garment.
If you set your camera's shutter to be roughly twice the amount of frame rate, you shouldn't get any flicker going on. So if 24 frames per second try a shutter of 50
Serious High End.
I think Kirby is the one who wants be interviewed...damn Kirby I love the videos but work on allowing the subjects to relay the information. If there are specifics you wanted to touch on that weren't, add a small additional piece on the end of the video to fill in those gaps in information. Still loved the vid though.
maybe a playlist 'London Visits'
I didn't know until this interview that there is a third Kingsman movie.
Hopefully coming out next year
Quality costs money but it's money well spent!
I really need to lift up my game to have that distinguished gentleman look
Asian Platinum Awesome! Take a look at our archive of content!
Huntsman guy has the ole collar gap... is a perfect fit that impossible to get?
A 300⏠ss suit would look better... His shoulders also look weird.. Maybe an old suit or something..
Very possible that it is a vintage piece that was altered and not tailored for him
His suit, to me, seems tight in the waist - festooning from the button and, yes, the collar gap.
It seems to be a reoccurring trend on Campbell's suits to have at the very least a fairly noticeable collar gap. I assume they must be old suits and if not I'm curious as to why it happens for him, since most Huntsman jackets do fit snug around the wearers neck...
I'm glad I'm not the only one who noticed this. Terrible poor quality garment. They clearly don't care at all any more.
Kirby looks like the actor Joe Lo Truglio from Brooklyn Nine Nine (Charles Boyle)
Love your videos very informative and if they ever make another kingsman movie i think you would make a fantastic agent
I think he really likes cutters.
the soul of the garment.
There's an issue with the lighting in this video causing an unsettling strobing effect. There is a plugin which will remove it, and I think you can eliminate it using a different shutter speed when filming also.
Yes, thank you. The camera team was aware on the shoot, however the fluorescent lighting in the shop had a pulse frequency that was strange. It did not go away, no matter what shutter speed was used. In the end, it was decided that the content was worth putting up with the banding, much to our own chagrin. We will endeavour to avoid issues like this in future
Huntsman is very talented person tailor
Is it ok to button the suit when you're wearing a vest or waistcoat?
We do like the Row.
Being flown on a clientâs private plane to tailor him a bespoke suit...My dream.
Really enjoyed the look inside Huntsman and this entire series. Kirby do you own any suits from them or other Savile row tailors?
Randall Pertiet No... I donât own any suits from anyone on Savile Row yet. Not even Huntsman.
That frequent collar gap on Mr. Carey's suit though... Hmmm...
Yes, shocking...no one currently at Huntsman ever apprenticed under Colin Hammick/Brian Hall or their disciples. So all the cutters there interpret Hammick's iconic Huntsman house cut. Richard Anderson, AFAIK, was the last to apprentice under Hammick and left in 2001 to open up his own shop, taking along a lot of Huntsman staff with him...
A pity you didn't show any of the fabulous and unique house Tweeds that Huntsman make - a missed opportunity.
With one button, does the Huntsman style include a vest as a standard part of the look?
Great video, nice to find out about them.
Kirby really i luv you're taste man ....
Which suit is top in your wardrobe
Oxfords not brogues! đđŒ
how about oxfords with broguing?
But in the movie he explains oxfords incorrectly and states they have an open lacing.
Hi Kirby! Do you roll up on these places unannounced or are they expecting you?
I like how you walk, Kirby. Could you teach us how to walk? Not joking. Lol
Quickly... hahaha
The suit is nice suit.
This land....forever England. Savile Row has long been known for fine tailoring. Wondering if they could do a ladies business suit - jacket and skirt?
England as seen in such videos and as commonly remembered is all but gone, unfortunately. The "progress" towards global homogenization has all but destroyed the architecture, culture and general spirit of many Western nations.
i have a question for your next Q & A. What are your favorite movies for fashion and style? May I suggest three? Casablanca, The Good Shepherd, and Wall Street (Gordon Gekko).
Tough question!
I got to go here while on my honeymoon a few months ago. Very expensive.
I got a genuine Kingsman (huntsman) umbrella for ÂŁ185. About $360 AUD.
Sweet! Sounds like a great souvenir!
What is more important the pattern maker or the fabric cutter?
A lot of tailors draw their own patterns and strike the fabric... so most of the time, it's the same person. But, generally, the pattern maker would be more important. The fabric cutter should just follow the pattern.
Kirby has stated in various videos that he does a lot of talking because a lot of these guests have never or rarely come in front of a camera.
I noticed that Campbell Carey doesn't show any shirt cuff when his arms are at his side. Is that more of a formal than Kirby's look?
I think it is more of a personal preference. I personally always want to flex my french double cuffs.
Campbell's shirt cuff seems to end at his jacket cuff. When he pulls his arm up, the jacket retracts a bit, revealing the shirt cuff. I'm learning about these things, and deciding which I like more.
It's difficult to read too much into this. Depending on what you were doing exactly the moment before or if they had time to pull their sleeves down once they put on their jacket...
Can someone name the exact quote Kirby mentioned?
I really enjoy your videos, but the camera crew need to dial in the settings a little better, the light flicker in the backgrounds is very unprofessional and that is such a shame as it lowers this video.
Kirby looks a bit like he is going to a wedding?
Itâs a sad fact, if you want a genuine Huntsman Cut suit and/or Coat you get it from Richard Anderson next door who was trained by Colin Hammick & Brian Hall the 2 Master Tailors of Huntsman. Richards book âBespokeâ is an amazing history of Huntsman, who sadly went bust twice and lost all the real cut as itâs wasnât passed on in the traditional way. Nice video Kirby đ
All I see is Lieutenant Dan!
very very good
Collar gap, come on collar gap
Ahh man I thought the thumbnail was gonna be in the video I like orange
watch the movie kyle
It looks like Kirby knows more about Huntsman than Huntsman themselves
Caption says 1999 when he said they moved here in 1919.
Lee Alex Thanks! Weâll correct!
I felt like I was intruding. he stands so close to him. felt a bit awkward
Who would have thought Borat was a client.
Kirby, how long does a suit take to make?
My huntsman suit took 2 weeks
Campbell has very nice cheek bones