Thanks Sammy. I had my eye on those… but kinda liked the older original style they had before they redesigned and chopped top them. Still a great looking option though. Can’t ever go wrong with an FJ!
i think most front axles bind on these little cralwers cuz theyre a design flaw. cars dont use these types of joints for a reason. a true cv joint would work way better. (also doesnt seem impossible to produce at these scales either its just a bunch of small ball bearings on a flower shaped metal)
Beautiful build. I just finished the same body and the stuffing the electronics in there was a challenge. What did you do to get the mounting plate on that rx? Next time you pull the body off, maybe slip a couple of o rings on the spacer bar in the inside notch of the body hinge, it’ll keep the pin from falling out when you unscrew it.
Thanks! Yeah, all of these body options are killer he offers. - for the RX mount, a friend made those up out of styrene. Just a base plate rectangle and a small styrene flat post sticking up between the metal prongs to hold the RX on the base. Super simple and gives you a nice surface to double side down.
Thanks you very much! -You don’t need an external BEC at all. Most every ESC has one built in of some level. I just like using the more powerful BECs with the more powerful servos to get the most out of them.
@@bcochener with 2s I direct power the RX or just the servo, depending on what is connected to the rx.... You need the BEC to get the 3s voltage 12.6V down to 8.4V?
@@sebo-Kids-RC All BECs step down the voltage from the battery. So yes. The stock SCX24 Combo ESC/RX is like a 5-6V BEC I believe. - for direct power to servo you most definitely need a BEC to step it down for these micro servos. I think you can direct battery power some 1/10th scale servos without a BEC possibly?? It all depends on the servos max Voltage input capacity.
@@bcochener yeah... I use the Injora 7kg and is good for 8.4V I direct power it from the battery or I direct power the RX from the 2s battery. I was wondering why you needed a BEC but you use 3s I think....
@@sebo-Kids-RC 3S or 2S, this Lizard Pro BEC only goes up to 6.5V max, that’s why I used the 8.4V BEC. If I was using a 2S battery, I would still run at least a 7.4V BEC.
Build is in the mail after watching this vid. Body still is not ordered… am i dumb to try and stuff a near identical setup into the cab only version or should i just get the same one you got. Basically wondering if shoehorning esc and receiver onto the opposite side as battery is possible and probably have to shorten wires to better manage it
What length links did you use on this build. I’m inspired to do a similar build. I’m starting with a deadbolt but I’m not sure the lengths will work with the body you used. Thanks.
I’d never build anything if I got mad about troubleshooting fitment problems. It happens here and there with most all brands. That’s why I share, to hopefully help out others. Cheers!
Wow what a rig everything you build is bad ass
I have no reason to build non-bad ass rigs 😂😂😂! Thanks Billy!
Leave it to an architect to make the most styling lookin micros, great inspiration
I appreciate that.
Man that is awesome 🔥🔥🔥
Appreciate it Matt!
its very therapuetic watching these build videos, love the attention to detail
Haha, appreciate that!
Yes it is sweet looking
Work of art 💯👍
Appreciate that!
Turned out 🔥🔥! Thanks for taking us along with your builds! Learning something new every time.
Appreciate that!
Love it recently bought a flub fj body I think yours looks a little better nice job bud 🔥🔥🔥😎👍
Thanks Sammy. I had my eye on those… but kinda liked the older original style they had before they redesigned and chopped top them. Still a great looking option though. Can’t ever go wrong with an FJ!
SICK@$$ BUILD!!!!! what more can I even say at this point. you rock brother!
Thanks Dirk! It was easy starting with this body… doesn’t take much to make it shine!
i think most front axles bind on these little cralwers cuz theyre a design flaw. cars dont use these types of joints for a reason. a true cv joint would work way better. (also doesnt seem impossible to produce at these scales either its just a bunch of small ball bearings on a flower shaped metal)
A true constant velocity joint would be awesome for sure!
These WT Micro bodies look great! I might just have to build one myself!
Definitely! I’m working on my 3rd right now for a Cheat Code. I say do it!!
Nice
nice video, It would be cool if you linked all the parts.
Tidy!! Man the proportions on that body are so sweet..
Thanks Nath! Man I love it as well!
Love your content! Thank you 🍻
Appreciate that! Cheers!
Yeah that front end looks mean, Will watch for the next one
Wow looks bad to the bone, I want one of these bodies looks so good 👍👍😎
I recommend them. Any one you pick will be a great choice. Just got the Willies bodies he started making. WTMicro on Etsy. Peace!
Nice build as always!!! Looks really good!!
Appreciate it Rob!
Beautiful build. I just finished the same body and the stuffing the electronics in there was a challenge. What did you do to get the mounting plate on that rx?
Next time you pull the body off, maybe slip a couple of o rings on the spacer bar in the inside notch of the body hinge, it’ll keep the pin from falling out when you unscrew it.
Thanks! Yeah, all of these body options are killer he offers. - for the RX mount, a friend made those up out of styrene. Just a base plate rectangle and a small styrene flat post sticking up between the metal prongs to hold the RX on the base. Super simple and gives you a nice surface to double side down.
What a beauty.... love to watch you doing all this details, so impressive
Questions, you wouldn't need a BEC with 2s, just direct power the rx
Thanks you very much! -You don’t need an external BEC at all. Most every ESC has one built in of some level. I just like using the more powerful BECs with the more powerful servos to get the most out of them.
@@bcochener with 2s I direct power the RX or just the servo, depending on what is connected to the rx....
You need the BEC to get the 3s voltage 12.6V down to 8.4V?
@@sebo-Kids-RC All BECs step down the voltage from the battery. So yes. The stock SCX24 Combo ESC/RX is like a 5-6V BEC I believe.
- for direct power to servo you most definitely need a BEC to step it down for these micro servos. I think you can direct battery power some 1/10th scale servos without a BEC possibly?? It all depends on the servos max Voltage input capacity.
@@bcochener yeah... I use the Injora 7kg and is good for 8.4V I direct power it from the battery or I direct power the RX from the 2s battery.
I was wondering why you needed a BEC but you use 3s I think....
@@sebo-Kids-RC 3S or 2S, this Lizard Pro BEC only goes up to 6.5V max, that’s why I used the 8.4V BEC. If I was using a 2S battery, I would still run at least a 7.4V BEC.
Build is in the mail after watching this vid. Body still is not ordered… am i dumb to try and stuff a near identical setup into the cab only version or should i just get the same one you got. Basically wondering if shoehorning esc and receiver onto the opposite side as battery is possible and probably have to shorten wires to better manage it
Oh sure it’s possible. I’m about to build the cab only myself on a Cheat Code chassis, so I’ll be doing the same thing.
Please do the cab only build on a cheat code v2
Coming up!
Awesome build. Working on my Cab from WT. Question. Why remove the center positive cable?
Thank you! -It’s because the BEC is now powering the Receiver, so no need to send power from the ESC to it.
Heck yeah that’s looking awesome 👍👍
You forgot to include a link where we can purcahse your custom RTR builds 😊
Thats one sick build!!!!
Thanks Corey! I’m loving it!
@@bcochener 🔥🔥🔥
I want that truck. Hell thinking about it, I want all your trucks
Haha!!!!
Wow I love this rig looking awesome 👍👍😎
Thanks 👍
I have this issues with my stock axles. With the ogrc axle shafts
Would love to have one of those Toyota pick up truck Body
What length links did you use on this build. I’m inspired to do a similar build. I’m starting with a deadbolt but I’m not sure the lengths will work with the body you used. Thanks.
The trucks are designed for the JLU/C10 wheelbase.
What kind of links are you using? Is it full scx24 c10 links from Injora love to replicate your build its awesome
Yep. @9:52 thanks for tuning in brother, hope this helps your build along. Cheers!
What are the dimensions of the battery you are running? Having issues locating something that fits well. Thanks.
21x40x17: www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-ft-2503s.html
Need a crawling video
Could this be put on a fcx24 with extended wheelbase?
Not sure, I do t have any FCXs. WT does make various lengths and also bodies for the TRX4M that are a tad larger. Something is bound to work for you.
@@bcochener Thank you. I will check them out.
What kind of tape do you use to secure your electrical?
I use 3M automotive/emblem double side tape.
@@bcochener
What about the black tape to secure your wiring on the inside of the body?
@@lml420 www.amazon.com/ProTapes-Colored-Crepe-Masking-Length/dp/B00DVAT4ZS/ref=sr_1_47?crid=2RE6M4QJ5H2PD&keywords=BLACK%2BMASKING%2BTAPE&qid=1698685709&sprefix=black%2Bmasking%2Btape%2Caps%2C114&sr=8-47&th=1
@@bcochener Thank you so much! Love the videos!
@@lml420 cheers!
Wow bad quality parts some company makes, I would be pissed!
I’d never build anything if I got mad about troubleshooting fitment problems. It happens here and there with most all brands. That’s why I share, to hopefully help out others. Cheers!