Solar Install Pt 1: No Drill Solar Panel Install | Roadtrek RV Van Fiberglass Roof Using 3M VHB Tape
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- Part 1 of 2: I install the 100 watt Renogy panels on the fiberglass roof of the Roadtrek Camper Van RV without drilling any holes, but instead use 3M VHB tape, then explain why you should use a MPPT controller for the most power during full time van life. Part Two: • Solar Install Pt 2: No...
VHB & ETERNABOND TAPES: gohobo.io/TBZS
INSTALL VIDS PART 1 (2017): • Solar Install Pt 1: No...
INSTALL VIDS PART 2 (2017): • Solar Install Pt 2: No...
5000mi Follow Up (2017): • LONG TERM TEST 3M VHB ...
1 Year Follow Up (2018): • NO DRILL NO HOLES SOLA...
2 Year Follow Up (2019): • How 3M VHB TAPE Is Hol...
5 Year (FINAL) Update (2022): • RV Van Solar Panel Ins...
Building the strut "auto tilt" bracket Part 1: • RV Solar Panel Install...
Building the strut "auto tilt" bracket Part 2: • RV Solar Panel Install...
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You can find links to everything here INCLUDING THE VHB TAPE in the SOLAR SECTION: hobotech.tv/amazon/
VHB & ETERNABOND TAPES: hobos.cc/TBZS
INSTALL VIDS PART 1 (2017): czcams.com/video/qghxSwUgxEc/video.html
INSTALL VIDS PART 2 (2017): czcams.com/video/QWLqGw0pegk/video.html
5000mi Follow Up (2017): czcams.com/video/5DEBb1Mtu0M/video.html
1 Year Follow Up (2018): czcams.com/video/pUU8IAVfwz8/video.html
2 Year Follow Up (2019): czcams.com/video/nShLdvEQyZI/video.html
5 Year (FINAL) Update (2022): czcams.com/video/o2yhVvBcsEU/video.html
Building the strut "auto tilt" bracket Part 1: czcams.com/video/Ajss5bl0BqE/video.html
Building the strut "auto tilt" bracket Part 2: czcams.com/video/9GQiJyYaLxs/video.html
I've been researching average cost to install solar power and found an awesome resource at Ewans Energy Roadmap (google it if you're interested)
Please can tell us Where do I buy the solar panel the variable angle frame at do you know?
Hi Hobotech. 2013Popular owner here. I just installed the same 100 watt Renogy panels on my Roof using the same techniques. with VHB tape and then Eternabond. I am going to run them in Parallel, and I have run the Cables through the A/C Vent Into a hole that was already there for other cables like A/C power. Next steps, Drill a hole in the metal floor of the van into the Battery Compartment so I can run the Cables from the Blue Sky Charge Controller into the house battery compartment, then run the cables with grommets. I am going to the stock battery location that is located on the right side of the van below the floor. I used your video as a guide for the VHB Panel install and it worked great. That VHB is tough. I drove about 60MPH on the freeway about an hour or two after install and no problems. Thanks!
Six years and 30,000+ miles later thru snow and blistering hot temps, this No Drill method is still holding up. He installed the panels with VHB tape on the bottom of the brackets. After 24 hours he covered them with Eternabond tape to protect from the elements. He cleaned the fiberglass roof first followed by wiping down with ethyl alcohol. He suggests this method for metal and fiberglass roofs (not rubber roofs).
Great video very helpful! For others with curved roofs that don't want to deal with bending the brackets, Renogy makes special curved brackets for about $25.
Thanks. Glad my videos help people. Sounds like I should buy up the flat $5 Renogy brackets, bend them, and resell them here for $20!
Thanks for much for sharing your experience.
I am in the process of mounting a 120w panel to the roof of my Casita and plan to use the VHB tape. No holes!
This is a big panel and will have to be mounted width wise on the higher center part of the roof. I would have gotten a smaller panel but I had this panel already and have been carrying it in the bed of my truck but it is cumbersome and I want it stationary.
Renogy has a tilt bracket for RVs that I got to use when parked but you still have to use the foot brackets like yours. This means the panel is going to sit at least 3” above the surface, plus it over hangs about 7” on each side from the elevated section. Hope my description makes sense. Because this is a big panel I am using 2 sets of brackets, a total of 8 to attach with the VHB tape. I feel the need to put some sort of air dam at the front and rear to decrease the chances of lift off as well as drag.
I am hoping to get your opinion about this proposed set up.
Just one minor note: If you have old sun baked chalky pain on roof i would suggest a light sanding down of paint in the spots where tape will be before cleaning it. It will adhere a lil bit better. Of Course if you have roof surface rust you will need to sand it down where tape will be used before cleaning.
I love when people make honest videos and tell us when something didn’t work. I take a course from Mobiltec, on vintage camper restoration and his moto is “I’m Larry at Mobiltec, I make mistakes so you don’t have to”. So thanks for the honestly
I mounted a 270 watt Renogy panel on my Grand Caravan 13 months ago using 3-m VHB and only one corner has failed to date. It was about 3 weeks ago. I just re taped it in the same fashion and am keeping an eye on the rest of the corners. So far they're all holding strong. I also ordered a sunroof "Visor"? to mount in front of the panel to help keep wind from rushing under the panel causing lift. Working great so far.
VHB tape is amazing stuff. It's all about surface prep. On those huge 270w panels you'd want at least 6 if not 8 points of contact. I've ran my little 100 watters over 6 months now through rain, snow, and 80 mph interstates. So far, so good. (*knock on wood*)
Dude bend the mounts to fit the fit the curve! Thank you so much!
Im convinced after doing this to my friend roadtrek that the durabond is the equalizer,that stuff is magic....thank you for the how too
This is excellent info. I hate the idea of drilling holes in the roof. Like I said before you are good at explaining how to do things and other highly technical "stuff".
Cheers!
Glad I watched this, I am going to put a awning rail up on the side of my Class B and really didnt want to drill holes in it to mount the rails, then I remembered watching this solar install with you using the VHB tape, that will work just great holding the rails, Great DIY posting! thanks!!
To minimize aerodynamic drag from the panels, affix a "bull nose" foam piece to both the leading and trailing edge of the solar panels. Again the mileage gain could be immeasurable.
The panels are so close to the roof the drag is minimal. I typically get 15 mpg highway which is darn good for a near 5 ton rig with a huge basket and bike hanging off the back. Besides, you need that air gap to keep the panels cool. A cool panel is an efficient panel.
I have done several solar panels on different campers and I always drill into the roof. It's the safest way. I know people don't like drilling into the roof but it's a must especially when you driving down the highway at 60 70 mph. The tape cant handle sun and Rain Over years it will break down and you will have a panel flying on the highway. As long as you protect the roof correctly you shouldn't have any problem or any leaks. Thank you for posting video proposing You video
6 years going strong. See all of my follow up vidoes.
I watched your video with great interest since I also own a class b with two flexible panels glued to the top. Lots of negative comments on the longevity of the flexible panel. I haven't had any problems at year 3 but I'm not full time and its covered when not in use. I know the 3M tape is great but I'd very nervous about placing 20 lb glass panels with just tape. I would probably put 3 tapes per side instead of two for my own insecurity. I'm sure you already know that a fixed flat position produces significantly less power than raising the panels when the sun is lower during the winter months ( almost 30% less) . Good luck.
I personally know several people (full timers) that have had multiple failures of flex panels within the first year. You might have extended life because you keep them covered when not in use. Baking in the heat without an air gap is one quick way to cook them. In any case, I've ran 15k miles and over 1.5 years on this VHB tape install (see my follow up videos) without a single issue. VHB is not only used in space but also to hold windows in 50 story skyscrapers, and they also use it to hold steel paneling to frames on semi trailers. Using it to hold a 20lb panel to my van roof is child's play compared to that. PS - Besides these I also have tilting ground deploy panels too that I show in more recent videos.
There should be room for air flow between the panels and the roof.
The panels need it to cool down, to perform better.
I work on cars they use a lot of 2 sided tape the stuff breaks down after a few years. I would use a few screw on the front side for insurance
Tripped across your channel, and so glad I did. Just bought a fibreglass shuttle bus that I am converting. I am about to search some of your previous vids and hope to learn ,ore. So appreciate your sharing. Someday I would love to cross paths, and learn more. Would you take questions ...
Taking your advise on a lower budget, and doing it myself.
Put a thin wood shim on tape when bending.
Thanks for this very helpful video!!!
I plan on doing the on my 30 ft tow behind trailer
it's all only as good as the paint it's sitting on..and I'm sorry to tell you paint does peal and delaminate especially on fyberglass...Yieks...
I'd advise one too - first take the paint down to the bare serfice befor applying and bonding to the fyberglass or metal serfice...Lord that could really end up being a bad deal going down the highway
I pray he comes to his scences soon and regroups and fastens them pannels down correctieally..
blessings
Hi Tom! I’ve watched this video several times since you made it, and, as recently as today, 1/2/23. Although you’re van is not the same brand as mine, and, mine is a 1989 Dodge Xplorer 230XLW, I think the roof mass of yours and mine are pretty much the shame as far as length and width. My question is this: what actually ‘IS’ the correct and precise width of the roof? Or of YOURS to give me an estimate at least about mine? I’m unable to get any width information regarding mine online. The reason I’m asking is bc I’m thinking seriously of buying the Renogy 2pcs Solar Panel Kit 320W 24V Monocrystalline Off Grid for RV for ‘my’ van (my van roof is fiberglass and being of curved nature). Longwise I’m quite sure the two of them will fit okay (65.6 inches long each, and, the only thing on top is my new Maxx Aire Deluxe), but, was just curious as to the width of the roof with these panels being 39.5 inches wide. HAPPY NEW YEAR 2023! Stay safe! ~Jim @TOTALLY RELAXED! (CZcams)
If you go to home depot you can buy a sheet metal bender, About 4" long for under $10.00 which would make it easier to bend those tabs.
Soo TRUE I own that tool and MANY MANY OTHERS to make all of my projects go SMOOTHER!!
looks good Hobe. You have thought of everything. I would want to spend more to have better quality
That's my philosophy as well. I never like to redo a job twice (or more).
Thanks for the video! That VHB tape is amazing.
so now its 2021 and I just got a 95 Roadtrek 190 with the same roof. I am going to do this exact install, but i think solar panels from renogy or other manufacturers might have improved since then in terms of watts/area of panel. So maybe I can fit 2, higher wattage panels like a pair of 120w or 150w watt panels. So I want to know the width of your panels because i think that width works perfectly with the roadtrek roof. looks like one can go slightly longer but not that much wider Pls LMK the approx width. thank you
Well thought out plan. Thanks for explaining.
Also posted this question to your FB group... do you think the VHB method would be strong enough when applied to a PVC covered roof as Forest River is using currently on their TTs? If I use screws it voids their roof warranty.. but if the VHB ends up pulling the PVC away from the plywood, that will also void the warranty not to mention I might lose a panel on the freeway.
I'm don't too smart, should use 1 or 2 pieces of wood too widened out the force of the wrenching, but like what's beening done, love u man.
According to air force wind tunnel testing , fifty five miles per hour is the threshold when pushing a brick shaped object through the air . Same as hydroplaning on water , over fifty five M.P.H. and your asking for something more expensive . T/C/E
And having the panels at a bit of an angle probably helps keep the panels cleaner.
Snow slides off easier too.
Roger that.
Put a safety cable on those panels, just in case.
Hey just want to say thanks for all your videos which I've been binge-watching in anticipation of buying one of these vans, and also thanks for the Amazon links...Have you considered flexible solar panels attached to some exterior window shades for when you're parked? I did notice how hot it gets in the van on those windows. I guess there would be a lot of unsightly wires blowing around though and they would definitely block the view.
This was helpful
You have shown in much detail more then any body else. Oh sure they talk about this but don't really show as much as you do. Sir.you have your self a new viewer Iv SUB to you ? A again Thanks best of luck in day to come your going to have fun.
Thanks! I intentionally put more detail into my videos than others do. Welcome aboard the Hobotech Train!
Nice work!
I have this idea to use a 100 w rigid solar panel as the lid on a custom vent opening in my van. I plan to bend/weld a 1 inch lip of sheet metal up and out of the roof line and attaching weather striping to both panel and that lip for double waterproofing. I think it will work, but wonder about the bottom side of the solar panel being visible from inside the van. Can I insulate that to help with heat transfer?
No. The bottom must remain open to the air to allow heat transfer.
I have 4 of the 180 watt solar (720 watts 48 amps total) panels that I want to run into the Bluetii AC200P.
I also have a Roadtrek 210, do you think its possible to run this. I have all that appliances your Roadtrek has and I live out of the van and need everything running. Is this possible?
Nice, however, there should be 4 inches roof clearance for adequate ventilation.
An inch is plenty. I've been running this setup for a year and half and always get full power without overheating issues.
Id like to understand solar panel ventilation. Is there a chemical reaction giving off heat downward? How much? How is it that flat panels (that I've heard can be 25% efficient now) don't have this issue? I'm asking as I was wanting to using a rigid solar panel and a roof vent and insulating the bottom of it.
Tim's RV Tips 4 inches my ass!!
Let's hope you never get a dead panel or need to clean underneath...How would you *ever* get them off????
I’m trying to figure out how to factor in roof fan shading. I Have a big fan
Ok I have to figure out which way to park my RoadTrek when I get it!
The best thing is to park the side with the most windows towards the north. This is usually the front. However, in practice it's often hard to do this as you have to choose between privacy (and having your doors facing a nice view) verses power and getting hot from the sun. Reflectix in the windows only goes so far.
Ok I will have to wait and watch to see how you park your van to see what you mean.
So you don't have room for a pair of the 120 watt panels in that location? I have the same van and I am preparing to make a similar installation. The bigger the better!
ok you uploaded this video in 2017...i just bought a new RV and i have the same solar panels, going to stick them on in the same way! my question is, did it work for you? how long did it last? i sure dont want to drill in a new roof....lol come on hobo! let me know. thanks man!
I installed the same kit using this method 2 years ago. They have been through two cold Canadian winters and hot summers and are still well bonded to my fibreglass roof.
So many people saying "Only one corner has failed" how many moons before the second corner fails, YOU DON'T CATCH IT. And the third, then our panels are blowing in the wind? Someone behind you gets hit? Worth it? no. I say this because I once used chincy fasteners on a solar setup I did on my diesel truck, they didn't last and next thing I know at 50 MPH they tore off of the roof and landed in the road, smashed... Thank God nobody was behind me.
"So many people"? I only heard one person and they admitted to not doing the proper surface prep. Like I said, 8 seasons and 17000 miles they are JUST FINE.
Would highly recommend you have some type of safety cable attached to those panels. Could be the difference from disaster happening should a panel come loose. Gives you some time to stop
Thanks for your opinion but after 2 years and 17k miles they are holding just fine.
HOBOTECH Ah, well that is good that they have held this long. Knock on wood.
hello, the brackets where you use the 3m vhb come with the solar or you purchased those apart?
can you put a big piece of metal and a big magnet in the other side betteR?
I've been liking all you vids, hopeing to to help boost your channel. Thanks for shareing your knowledge.
If you had turned the panels around, the wires would have been at the back and you wouldn;t have had to run extra wiring on the roof
EXCELLENT instructional video.!!!
The way you were standing on that ladder they were probably vaulters ant crows. Happy Klinkies. Always enjoy your publications. Safe travels. Belly rubs for Oden
I decided to wire my Renogy (400 watt 4 panel )system series/parallel. I do want to run a fuse for each solar panel, what amp fuse should I use.
10 amp per 100w panel
"Famous last words" Heh! I hear that! Fingers crossed!
Great job. No drilling on the fiberglass roof. I have a TBO roof, vacuum formed, not necessarily smooth. Would you suggest drilling or no drilling?
Thanks for the video. I have the covered buttons on my side panels. Once the screws are removed, are there any problems removing the panels?
Try Arizona: 120F on the ground and 180F on the roof. These panels will BAKE! Stay in the shade.
This install was done in AZ and they worked flawless in 110 degree summer heat. Again, not sure where you got your information but 1.5 years later all my panels are pushing 5-6 amps each and every day without a sweat.
hi hobotech....so i'm currently doing the same install as you except on a metal van roof...just wondering have you ever tried to loosen the the nut on the inside of the panel to see if you could remove the panel? seems you'd have to make some sort of socket extension to get under there? the gap looks tight. thank you for this detailed video!......c
No, but it should be possible. The panels have a 25 year warranty so they should outlive the vehicle they're on.
Hello, I enjoy the vid (Ideal); can you remove the panel if damaged?
Good vid Tom, Thanks,
Michael
Does the VHB only work with fiberglass or will this work on a standard metal roof? Cleaned and prepped of course
@hobotech would you consider putting VHB tape in between the panel frame and bracket?
Great video and very informative.
Getting ready to install panel on my Casita. I hate the thought of drilling holes in my roof, so I would like to know how your install is holding up. I would like to do the same install as you if there have been no problems. could you lets us know how its held up/ Thank you.
Others have asked the same here. 5000+ miles in all kinds of wind and weather including snow and ice with no issues so far.
Would eigh5 braces be more secure?
Kinda still new to solar but never heard about your comments on series vs parallel connections. I was thinking of putting 4 panels on roof of my cabin, two on one side of the peak and two n the other to catch most sun but was going to connect all in series (4 BRV 180w to a Bluettit200ac). Would i do better to connect 2 in series on each side and then join them in parallel?
Nice video for 2019
the rivets on the other! doesn't it leak there or !! ?? looks like you have that on the other solarpanel,,,
I realize this is a 6 year old vid but anyway, why didn't you use flexible solar panels?
you need removable panels here in oz the sun is too hot to park in
I have both. The roof panels actually provide some shade for the roof, and I use semi-metallic tarps to cover the sun side in hot weather. Certainly makes it more livable but for us Yanks we just drive to cooler places in summer.
Tom,
04 roadtrek owner here. Did the converter/charger upgrade. Have the renogy kit like you. Any issues I should know about when plugging in? Will the converter argue with the solar?
I've watched a few videos on solar panel installation and none of them have put fuses on. Is it essential? I mean it's probably wise but, is it essential? It's just cos I'll be fitting it myself and I need it to be as simple as possible so I don't break anything 😏
No, just a good safety measure.
So how is the tape holding up, have you had any problems yet?
czcams.com/video/5DEBb1Mtu0M/video.html
You're getting more comments now
When U said nerd alert I thot it was cus U were playin with Ur mini lightsaber! That glow of purple shootin up was at the same time.
40,000th view here!
Wow your doing SO much with your RoadTrek! Are those 100 watt panels? I'm getting 2 100 watt panels on my 2017 RoadTrek (also underwood generator, volt start, and 4 6 volt AGM batteries). I wish I had all your skills!
Thanks! Yes, they are 100w Renogy (the standard ones). I already bought a 3rd I'm using for ground deploy, and about to buy a 4th soon. Can never have enough solar. Enjoy that shiny new Roadtrek!
Wait how are you fitting so many solar panels on your roof? They are only able to put 2 100 watts on my Roadtrek because of the Fantastic Fan. Do you go over the cost of your solar panels and other parts needed? (I'm still watching part 1 right now) You should make a business of helping people with their vans. I bet you could make some great money doing it. I know at the RTR event people install solar for others. How How did you learn to do so much stuff? Your so handy!
I only have 2 on the roof. I could have fit a 3rd in front of the fan but I didn't want to mess with the aerodynamics. The 3rd panel (and coming 4th) are ground deploy with tilt brackets that allow me to put the panels in the sun even if I park in shade. I recommend doing this as it has REALLY helped. You'll see the 3rd panel in later videos. I have seriously considered a business doing builds but being a full timer without a "shop" makes that challenging. I may help out at the 2018 RTR and maybe Jamie's van build too if I get back to AZ early.
Yeah we were talking about squeezing a 3rd one in front of the Fantastic Fan but we didn't think there would be enough room for one. I didn't think about the aerodynamics of it. What do you mean by ground deploy? You mean portable ones you set outside? So you will have 2 100 watts on top of your van and also 2 100 watts that are portable you take outside? How will you get them in the sun if your sitting in the shade? Just with long cables? And how will you run the wires of the portable ones inside to your batteries? Ok but what about doing this. You go to peoples houses that need help that also would have the tools? Or rent the tools you need from somewhere like Home Depot and add it to their bill. I'm hoping to get to Jamies van build and to the RTR. It depends on when I get my Roadtrek. I just want to go to Jamie's van build so I can gain some knowledge.
What was your total cost for the panels with the parts?
Where di you get those brackets? What are they called again? DO you have a supplies list?
The aluminum ones for the panels? They come with the Renogy kits but you can buy them separately. I don't have the supply list anymore but what I basically did was look what came with the kit and then bought the parts. For some reason at the time the kit cost more than getting the parts separate.
www.amazon.com/Renogy-Solar-Panel-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B00BR3KFKE
For this install I used:
2x100w Renogy Mono Panels (the cheap ones)
Renogy Commander 20A (I should have gotten the 40A in hindsight)
Renogy MT50 Controller (and I had my own 20 foot Ethernet cable to connect it)
1 pair of Renogy Branch Connectors
1 Renogy 20A MC4 Inline Fuse
Renogy 8ft 10AWG Tray Cable (for connecting the batteries to the Commander)
Renogy 20ft 10AWG (AK-20FT-10) Solar Cables (for connecting the panels to the Commander)
Then of course the 3M VHB 4950 and Eternabond tapes
Hi, how did you clean the roof?
What do you do if you ever need to remove them?
heat gun and flat pry bar, it will be super goopy and you will never get all the goop off
Wish you had a separate camera person filming this. Found I was getting motion sickness due to the constant jerkiness of the shoot and the ultra-close views due to the fact that this is, basically, a 26 minute long 'selfie', and had to abort. But I do really like the idea.
So I have two vents on my van roof and the only space for a solar panel is in between them, and it'll be a fairly snug fit. Am I going to lose power? Thanks
Probably, unless you can setup tilt brackets and point the panel towards the south.
@@HOBOTECH Hmm...thanks 🤔👍
if/when the solar panels go bad, how do you remove them to put a new one on ?
3M makes an expensive solvent for VHB. Isopropol alcohol will work, slowly. VHB is really stuck on.
I bought some 3m vhb tape to do this project but Im wondering if I got the right tape. mine is red. what tape did you use? Im ready to mount but want to do it right.
See my pinned comment.
You should be a teacher. 🍎
I get that quite a bit. Certainly would pay better than CZcams.
Ok I'm confused. Why do you need a kill switch for the solar? If it's parked inside somewhere it's still using power?
If you don't add a kill switch then your solar is ALWAYS on even if you don't want it to be. For example, an electrical repair on your house systems. You want zero power in the rig during a repair job. Yes, it is still possible to get voltage from solar even in a garage if it has windows or flourescent lights! I've also found the kill switch handy for resetting the controller when it misbehaves or when I want to subtract solar from a scenario. It's well worth the few extra bucks to put it in!
Thanks for the info! I'm not sure if my solar will come with a kill switch or not. If not I will have to get someone to add one in my van!
What specific type of VHB tape?
They have different types.
He used 4950 VHB
I don't want to drill my camper shell & I don't trust tape in extreme temps. It's a delimna.
Watch my 1 and 2 year follow up videos. Also see my 3rd roof panel install I did last month. Proof that VHB holds just fine under all weather including weeks of 105 degree days here in AZ.
Thanks for this video! How has this solution held up over the long term?
See the description.
@@HOBOTECH ah! Merci!
What brand of brackets do you recommend
hobotech.tv/amazon
Has anyone had a failure as of today ????
Mine has been going strong the past 5000 miles through all weather conditions including snow. Not sure how others fare. There are very few videos where people used VHB and report the results.
HOBOTECH thanks for the reply this may be my solution !!!!!
Hey, what's the width of the tape? 1 inch?
Yes, it's on my Amazon page.
I would never, ever, ever trust tape to hold down panels on a stationary surface, let alone one moving at speed. They'll be subjected to strong winds trying to blow them away -- and that's just when the RV is stopped. Through-bolting is the only secure way. The panels are also too close to the surface, which will heat them up and reduce their output. It will also be impossible to clean under them.
You've been misinformed. See my follow up videos. Not only are my panels still mounted strong after 15,000 miles of 4 season driving, but I receive max output on sunny days.
Put a small pice of wood on bracket before bending the bracket... problem solved
How's the tape holding up?
See the description.
Not sure this is a great idea I work with vhb tapes all the time on a very hot day it will lose all its strength. We're im from it is illegal to install anything without a mechanical fasteners. Your vent has 30 holes screwed into the roof what wrong with 4 more .especially anyone doing this on a painted roof the bond is only as strong as the paint. The best way I have found is to use a combination of polyurethane caulking and heavy duty riviots
You must not be using it right because I live in Arizona where it is 105 degrees all the time. 3 years going strong.
What brackets did you use?
hobotech.tv/amazon
I noticed you don't have the solar panels covered from the sun while you are installing them? Also, is that enough ventilation clearance under the panels? They don't like heat.
The panels weren't plugged in at the controller so covering wasn't necessary. It's definitely more than enough ventilation. Rigid panels already have an air gap due to the frame. The ones that overheat are the flex ones when glued to the roof.
Hi Hobotech...will the tape work on non fiberglass roof as well? I'm almost done with my van & this is the last thing I need to do for boondocking. I have side rails & cross bars, but only 3 -4 ft in length. I was thinking of of making a cargo basket to replace factory rails, using slotted angle iron for frame and flat angle iron for cross bars. U think that would work? I would then have to forgo the tape and drill tho. I'm a newbie & looking for any Ideas. Thanx!
I don't see why that wouldn't work as long as the panels fit. VHB works on most non porous surfaces. It won't work on rubber roofs or silicone. Since you have a metal roof that's fine. I would suggest at minimum you use Dawn soap and water to strip any wax off the roof then do your usual surface prep. I'd probably go so far as to light sand the areas where the tape is going and then do the prep.
HOBOTECH okay thank!