Welding Titanium - Fabrication Series: 12
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- čas přidán 9. 07. 2024
- Titanium is a great material to use for components in racecar fabrication. Since we've previously covered 4130 and stainless, tonight we will focus some of the techniques involved in welding titanium.
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The information contained in this video is based on the opinion of Tim McAmis and his 30+ years in the motorsport and manufacturing industries. Any action you take based upon the content provided shall be done at your own risk. TMRC and its affiliates are not liable for any losses and/or damages in connection with the use of this information. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Tim you're the man! I forgot about your fantastic channel and luckily looked up welding Titanium and this episode showed up. Need to revisit all of your videos again- so much practical knowledge delivered in a no-nonsense informative approach. For a brief moment all makes sense in the world haha- Thank You Sir!
Shield your filler rod before you pull away from the molten puddle. Your filler rod is cherry red as well and it will contaminate your weld puddle when you start back up again. Great video and lots of helpful information👨🏭👍🏻
True.
Thanks for taking the time to create these great videos!
Your videos are extremely beneficial, thank you for creating/posting.
Sir you are very smart, i really love your videos. Keep up the great work and i'm surprised you only have 18k subs. You should have like 200k at minimum. Your information can help me later in life if i want to fab some stuff at my home lol.
In regards to welding, i think you are just a bit more informative than TFS (The fabrication series) but man both you and TFS make great videos. Next down would be Bob the welder.
Hi, was just wondering when you terminate the weld why u don't leave the end of the filler wire in the gas shield or cut the contaminated end off before starting the weld again ?.
Great information! I’ve been afraid to try Titanium out fear of making a big, expensive, disastrous mistake. I’m not scared anymore. Thanks!
Wondering if you have ever tried the Vortex cup. It is sold by Speedway Motors and Arc-zone. The cup is made of aluminum and then anodized black and is NOT recommended for DCEP, I guess because of arcing. One plus, it won't break if the torch is dropped. Thanks
have you ever built a full Titanium tube chassis
Is it possible you can make handle bar of haley davidson ape handle bar with titanium?
Thanks!!!!!!
Man I wish I could work for you man
I love tig welding stainless and I would love to learn how to do titanium and 4130
were does someone find titanium? my local metal supplier does not handle it.
It seems like sodering to me more then a weld. I used to work at a hvac shop. The shop Had sheet metal rollers. There was a Motorcross dirtbike race shop nextdoor. The owner asked if we could roll some titainium for his sons bike. We rolled it 24 times. It hardly had a bend. It was like a slight bend in a baseball hat. Titanium is interesting for sure.
Titanium needs lots of heat and tons of pressure.
shouldn't that be back purged like stainless?
DnV Auto Performance & Welding yup. Both tubes getting joined should be constantly purged while welding. The inside of that tube is in bad shape now.
@DroneRetrievalUnit oh i know it should be, im just more surprised he didnt stress the importance of it on the Ti, because that joint is trash, seemed like a waste of some good Ti, especially with the price of it, wish i could afford to waste it like that LOL
@Richard NZ I'm not sure what you mean by there only being metal on the backside, but I think there may be some confusion. The only way you dont purge titanium, that I can think of, is if say you are filling a gouge on a very thick piece. You are not penetrating all the way or even bringing the backside of the material to a reactive state. But say on a butt joint, like he demonstrated with the sheet metal, you are most definitely penetrating all the way through and getting the backside up to and beyond the reactive temp. And with tube, it is most likely going to be something somewhat structural. So, you need to make sure your weld is penetrating deep. If you dont back purge that tube joint, you dont have actual weld on the backside. Just a hot mess. Like trying to weld it with oxy acetylene. It loves argon, and the coverage isnt just for looks when it comes to structural integrity. Anyways.. Keep it metal \m/ weld on
Show us more about titanium backhalf cars
what grade of Titanium are you using?
Does titanium sugar?
Is that 10 seconds of after flow of gas.
Yes.
Other than being light weight why use titanium?
All depends on the application, but it is very very corrosion resistant. Titanium exhausts will outlast stainless. Good for salty/briney winter roads. I've heard some submarines use it for their piping because it lasts so long it's worth the extra money to not have to service it as often, which is stupid expensive, I guess.
I want to start off by saying that These are good videos I just have one problem the way you are explaining things. There is no difference in heat and how quickly it cools when you leave the argon on it or when you pull it away (the longer you continuously weld the hotter the piece will be at a constant welding temperature). The color difference is oxidization when you pull it away. If you look at the first weld you didn't give it enough time to cool down and it was at a temperature that the pipe started to oxidize. There is a greater amount of oxidization when you pull away right after you finish the bead because you are introducing more oxygen. The temperature is the exact same in both cases. That gold hew about 1/2 inch away from the weld is where the oxygen is mixing with the argon and there is some oxidization. Steel will oxidize at 1290 deg F (700C) and titanium will oxidize at 2,190 def F (1,200 deg C). The TIG welder operates at ~11,000 deg F (3K-20K). You have to keep the argon cloud on it until it cools below 1,290 deg F to avoid oxidization. You are 100% spot on with your technique.
At what temperature does titanium go from silver to light straw color?
@@brandyquad in normal atmosphere around 700 F, but that is also a subjective question. If you have no oxygen, it won't. The color change is oxidation. Any time that you are not welding in full containment (and properly purged) you will get color change. The more oxygen that you displace the less of a color change you will get. I see why you asked that question. In my previous comment I said 1,290 F. Above that is the blue to purple oxidization point in normal atmosphere.
@@Rusty_Raine Thanks for clarification. Thats very scientifically informative. I like to be on both sides of the fence when it comes to welding. Being knowledgable about what is happening and actually taking action, I think helps a person be a better overall welder.
@@brandyquad I agree. Thank you for a good conversation. I am a better scientist than I am a welder. I grew up welding on my dad's farm. He is a fabricator and a nuclear engineer. He always prompted me to ask the question of why something happens the way it does. 20 years in the navy gave me a love for teaching others. Hopefully within the next 3 years I will have a shop with multiple welding machines. I just need to build the shop fist. I am trying to set things up so I can film the shop build and creating a CZcams channel.
Basically any of part of the material that reaches over roughly 700° F must be shielded from atmosphere until it cools below that temperature. This includes interior of the tubing, backside of a butt weld or lap joint. The naturally occuring oxide layer, similar to aluminum, should be removed before welding since it contains oxygen. Lastly, remove all contaminants from the parts, filler rods with a degreaser such as acetone etc. prior to welding and all your joints will come out shiny and durable.
Damn my cheap ass needs a tig
$195 for a pound of grade 5 Ti tig wire... BAAAAAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAAA
GFYS!
This is awful. Sorry but almost everything in this video is wrong.