I’ll get my crayons! Dude, you crack me up, in a good way. No need to stress out, kick the dog, just handle it. In this world of working on vehicles and there systems, you would have a lot of dented fender & broken windshields. I enjoy your humor drops!
Not to waste your time, but it was kinda fun watching now with some experience, I was labeling all these wires yesterday. Should have engine nearly out of the 1 ton van end of today! Just a beginner. Really the only "fear" I have now is how to power the rest of the car through the system. Thanks.
I'm like u.i get alot of stuff from the junkyard..i am watching alot of your videos an hopping it will help me with my crank no start on my ls.i been working on it for weeks.
Well I am still having trouble with the starting..I have not flash the computer. Because I have the donor truck.I was driving the Chevy truck .an same harness so do I really need to get it reflash
Thanks JR. I have a s10 that I’d like to LS swap (after the mustang is done) but it was completely stripped of the factory wires. Rust free truck from Missouri I picked it up for $100.... I planned on just running a 8-12 fuse panel under the hood. Battery will be mounted in the bed. Where you helped me was the fact that I can run my fuse block off the back of my alternator. I’ll only be running the minimum, it won’t be run on the streets unless I plan on wiring headlights taillights etc. Basically just building it for the ‘Run what ya brung ‘ races on Friday night. Keep it up !
The Driveway Engineer once that time comes, I’d really want to know how you achieve that. I think I’m going to wire up brake, turn and headlights. That’s it.
Sick! Working on an LS1 swap in a BMW and trying to get it ready just for a first start, since I've never heard the engine run. Never in a million years thought it would be this simple!
JR. Mr. Driveway Engineer, sound clips can be dramatic, but the loping camshaft in the higher compression engine, complete with a clean crisp valve job sounds so good, I have to ask....What is it? I have been in Detroit, NE of town with buddies as we walked the “Show-N-Shines”, and heard that sound. As a car guy, you have to look and figure out where it is. Only the lucky one know what’s under the hood as they disappear into a small white puff of burn-out smoke. I am convinced that a Prius dreams about sounding that way, while plugged in its charging station late at night. I think they cry a little! Please share. Please! So cool, that should be a ring tone for phones. Subscriber.
You got it JR. The intro changes on videos if I remember right. I have 5.3L iron truck engine (1 of 1.3 million produced), but stock 9.5:1 compression. I saw the lift @ 0.50” and would have calculate actual valve lift w/stock 1.7 rockers, seems that 500 or under works w/stock spring, going higher requires better. LSA 112-114 is smooth & good vacuum, this one has a pipe that sounds like 108. Just sounds so nice. Did not want to pry as soo many combos can sound the same. Retirement does not pay well so I will replace stem seals, trunnion kit, I left T, C & G, modify oil pump, plastic gauge random rods & mains, new seals & gaskets, bar-bell and look for better oil pan for 67 C10 for driver only. 4 more surgeries to go as L3 epidural was good (#2), MRI done and Elbow surgery on the 4th over. Decades of this work, wears out parts. Miss my old wallet while sitting between 4 tool boxes, MIG, Torch, Sandblast, Press, 2 HD sewing machines & 30+ plastic or metal boxes of special tools including TECH-II. Shame as boys won’t touch them because the have no clue. Keep up the good work, great videos.
Hey. Love your content. Had a question… LS1 to G body alternator wiring single wire alt. What needs to be done to make this work. (ie do I need to put a resistor on that wire etc) you seem to be the most no-nonsense guy… I’m an amateur looking for any help possible
Sounds like I need to chase and label every wire from my "existing" ign. and fuse box in "the car" so I can power all through the original system, knowing what all does what. As my car has all the electric goodies. Luckily the old CPU is separated on the passengers side, and the ing / body wiring / fuze box is on the other. Damn simple, but complicated.
Most are separated like that. An LS harness only needs ground, power constant, and triggered power to run. That's why I'm able to wire the truck so simply, even when I add lights and whatnot back in, there's nothing to the engine side.
Hey man, speaking of minimal wiring have you thought of trying out the carb intake? I think I might go that rout not only for wiring sake, but to keep that “classic look” going with the truck.
Great post was hoping you could help with a wiring question regarding vss signal. I will be running a T5 on a LS swap. What pins are input vss from trans to ecm? I know it needs an input from trans but not sure on ecm pins. Thanks in advance.
@Miguel Ortega The VSS signal generator is a permanent magnifying type. This means only two wires are used, shown at the PCM, will be one “High” and one “Low”. It makes no difference which is which, as a “PM” generator produces an A/C voltage. I would suggest that you do a little extra work for a clean signal, not hard. First, at the transmission on the frame, place a ring connector with black for ground. Run this inside that harness and terminate next to the PCM’s location. Using extra wire, but place one end in the bench vice, the other end in a drill. Twist the signal wires to roughly 9 times per foot. This action shortens the wire, so start with extra. This is the factory method and by twisting, reduces the ability for high voltage or transient voltage to be induced into the signal wires. That extra ground works this way as well. I use aluminum tape to wrap all three wires to make the VVS harness. The hard working PCM takes this signal and splits it to inputs to the Speedo, ABS for rear axle signal only, then radio. These are the RDS radio that gets louder when driving faster and quit when slowing down. The Body Control even gets Milagros info to kill the radio & creates a warning noise in LF speaker, when your blinker was on for too long. It’s all very simple right? Best to you! ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired ( I am sharing what I have learned, yours may vary depending on the year, equipment and programming) Just helping Mr. driveway engineer, JR. Best to all.
Why not run your 10 gauge from the battery instead of your alternator to your distribution block? Would look cleaner but more importantly you could put your breaker closer to the battery.
Because it's a shorter run to the distribution block from the alternator. That's the factory block, and I'm not moving it. Also, the wire is in the wiring loom now
I’ll get my crayons! Dude, you crack me up, in a good way. No need to stress out, kick the dog, just handle it. In this world of working on vehicles and there systems, you would have a lot of dented fender & broken windshields. I enjoy your humor drops!
Not to waste your time, but it was kinda fun watching now with some experience, I was labeling all these wires yesterday. Should have engine nearly out of the 1 ton van end of today! Just a beginner. Really the only "fear" I have now is how to power the rest of the car through the system. Thanks.
I'm like u.i get alot of stuff from the junkyard..i am watching alot of your videos an hopping it will help me with my crank no start on my ls.i been working on it for weeks.
Well I am still having trouble with the starting..I have not flash the computer. Because I have the donor truck.I was driving the Chevy truck .an same harness so do I really need to get it reflash
Thanks JR. I have a s10 that I’d like to LS swap (after the mustang is done) but it was completely stripped of the factory wires. Rust free truck from Missouri I picked it up for $100.... I planned on just running a 8-12 fuse panel under the hood. Battery will be mounted in the bed. Where you helped me was the fact that I can run my fuse block off the back of my alternator. I’ll only be running the minimum, it won’t be run on the streets unless I plan on wiring headlights taillights etc. Basically just building it for the ‘Run what ya brung ‘ races on Friday night. Keep it up !
Same lol, all I really need is brake lights
The Driveway Engineer once that time comes, I’d really want to know how you achieve that. I think I’m going to wire up brake, turn and headlights. That’s it.
Sick! Working on an LS1 swap in a BMW and trying to get it ready just for a first start, since I've never heard the engine run. Never in a million years thought it would be this simple!
Thats strait to the point! Thank you .
Awesome video brotha!
JR. Mr. Driveway Engineer, sound clips can be dramatic, but the loping camshaft in the higher compression engine, complete with a clean crisp valve job sounds so good, I have to ask....What is it?
I have been in Detroit, NE of town with buddies as we walked the “Show-N-Shines”, and heard that sound. As a car guy, you have to look and figure out where it is. Only the lucky one know what’s under the hood as they disappear into a small white puff of burn-out smoke. I am convinced that a Prius dreams about sounding that way, while plugged in its charging station late at night. I think they cry a little!
Please share. Please! So cool, that should be a ring tone for phones. Subscriber.
Are you referring to the intro?
That's my truck, Daryl, a 79 C10 with an LQ4, 862 heads, 10.2:1 compression with a 230@50 cam
You got it JR. The intro changes on videos if I remember right. I have 5.3L iron truck engine (1 of 1.3 million produced), but stock 9.5:1 compression. I saw the lift @ 0.50” and would have calculate actual valve lift w/stock 1.7 rockers, seems that 500 or under works w/stock spring, going higher requires better. LSA 112-114 is smooth & good vacuum, this one has a pipe that sounds like 108. Just sounds so nice. Did not want to pry as soo many combos can sound the same. Retirement does not pay well so I will replace stem seals, trunnion kit, I left T, C & G, modify oil pump, plastic gauge random rods & mains, new seals & gaskets, bar-bell and look for better oil pan for 67 C10 for driver only. 4 more surgeries to go as L3 epidural was good (#2), MRI done and Elbow surgery on the 4th over. Decades of this work, wears out parts. Miss my old wallet while sitting between 4 tool boxes, MIG, Torch, Sandblast, Press, 2 HD sewing machines & 30+ plastic or metal boxes of special tools including TECH-II. Shame as boys won’t touch them because the have no clue. Keep up the good work, great videos.
you got a lot of the same stuff as me, fuse boxes and all, 'cept I got a long bed stepside lol....
Hey. Love your content. Had a question… LS1 to G body alternator wiring single wire alt. What needs to be done to make this work. (ie do I need to put a resistor on that wire etc) you seem to be the most no-nonsense guy… I’m an amateur looking for any help possible
Sounds like I need to chase and label every wire from my "existing" ign. and fuse box in "the car" so I can power all through the original system, knowing what all does what. As my car has all the electric goodies. Luckily the old CPU is separated on the passengers side, and the ing / body wiring / fuze box is on the other. Damn simple, but complicated.
Most are separated like that.
An LS harness only needs ground, power constant, and triggered power to run.
That's why I'm able to wire the truck so simply, even when I add lights and whatnot back in, there's nothing to the engine side.
Hey man, speaking of minimal wiring have you thought of trying out the carb intake?
I think I might go that rout not only for wiring sake, but to keep that “classic look” going with the truck.
No, not other than with injectors and a TB mounted on it still lol.
Wiring the engine to the truck takes ground, 12v constant, and switched 12v.
Very nice job
thanks bro
What brand of standalone wire harness from ebay or Amazon should I trust
Bro please let me know how you ran your ground cause my starter drags due to low ground
Block to frame, one on each side, battery to block and battery
@@TheDrivewayEngineer thank you I relocating to trunk do to turbo much respect
I'd still run the same grounds in the trunk
@@TheDrivewayEngineer my start terminal was loose an wiggly could that be a problem
which connector would be the one that triggers the starter?
What size breaker are you going to use for your 12v?
I think it has a 150a breaker in it
Great post was hoping you could help with a wiring question regarding vss signal. I will be running a T5 on a LS swap. What pins are input vss from trans to ecm? I know it needs an input from trans but not sure on ecm pins. Thanks in advance.
There's full diagrams on LT1swap.com.
It depends on the year of your harness and PCM, but I'm sure it's covered there.
@Miguel Ortega The VSS signal generator is a permanent magnifying type. This means only two wires are used, shown at the PCM, will be one “High” and one “Low”. It makes no difference which is which, as a “PM” generator produces an A/C voltage. I would suggest that you do a little extra work for a clean signal, not hard.
First, at the transmission on the frame, place a ring connector with black for ground. Run this inside that harness and terminate next to the PCM’s location. Using extra wire, but place one end in the bench vice, the other end in a drill. Twist the signal wires to roughly 9 times per foot. This action shortens the wire, so start with extra. This is the factory method and by twisting, reduces the ability for high voltage or transient voltage to be induced into the signal wires. That extra ground works this way as well. I use aluminum tape to wrap all three wires to make the VVS harness. The hard working PCM takes this signal and splits it to inputs to the Speedo, ABS for rear axle signal only, then radio. These are the RDS radio that gets louder when driving faster and quit when slowing down. The Body Control even gets Milagros info to kill the radio & creates a warning noise in LF speaker, when your blinker was on for too long. It’s all very simple right? Best to you!
ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired ( I am sharing what I have learned, yours may vary depending on the year, equipment and programming) Just helping Mr. driveway engineer, JR. Best to all.
@@deankay4434 i
@@larrywelton9925 What? I too? The eyes have it?
the other out put red wire goes to where
Isn't the battery supposed to be on passenger side?
That's the stock location yes.
YOURE KIDDING ME! 12V switch power can just be a damn toggle switch? ☹️
Sure, a switch is a switch lol
the one red wire thats butted to the #3
idk what wire you're referring to, but there's a diagram at the end.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer I got it thanks
Why not run your 10 gauge from the battery instead of your alternator to your distribution block? Would look cleaner but more importantly you could put your breaker closer to the battery.
Because it's a shorter run to the distribution block from the alternator.
That's the factory block, and I'm not moving it.
Also, the wire is in the wiring loom now
What Electric fan are you using
Ford Taurus
What year how many CFM. is it