Homemade oxalic acid vaporizer for mite treatment
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- čas přidán 4. 12. 2021
- Homemade oxalic acid vaporizer for mite treatment from the back of beehive. The bees are much calmer when treatment is from the rear of the hive. Check the hive condition before treatment. High mite population can cause the bees to abscond. You don’t want to treat an empty hive.
Don't over treat!
Use black iron, copper or stainless steel for the pipe and cap (or the entire device); do not use galvanized steel.
Use propane, the lower heat will create a longer evaporation and less toxic gas.
Don't over heat, gradual heat is better.
Preheat the outside of pipe to prevent condensation before heating the cap.
Thank you for all your comments and suggestions. Let’s take the bit out of mites!
Safety First
Wear an approved Respirator
Wear gloves
Bucket of Water
Check the wind direction and stay upwind
MissBeeHavenMN.com
Good job, thank you for showing your method of construction. I know that we are using these outside, but inhaling zinc is not a good thing - much safer to use black iron instead of galvanized pipe.
I would "Strongly Suggest" you use Black Iron pipe when using that much heat. Galvanized pipe can bee toxic!
Right that crossed my mind too.
Or you can thread the pipe cap for a large Ford Diesel engine glow plug and apply 12 volts from a fully charged Semi Truck battery. It will shoot the vapor better than the professional models. While the regulated dose of Oxalic Acid is in fact 1 gram…. The University of Florida has done years of testing in which observations were made indicating that this is not a substantial enough dose. Their observations are that 4 grams provide a lethal enough dose (to veroa mites) of Oxalic Acid to be effective against 70% of veroa mites in a large 2-4 frame hive
Well done. Informative video. Thank you. I think I’ll make several of these later this week. Great idea.
Use black pipe for the cap. The rested doesn't get that hot.
Great design. A few safety things to consider but very impressive
It wpi;d be helpful if you contained a list of the sizes and types of materials in the description.
Agreed
Thanks man! Will make a list and do it myself
My Varomorus OA fogger from the Ukraine was 150. on ebay. I can do start to finish 19 hives in a half hour. This is a very good design for those off grid tho.
Awesome! My husband, just made me one, all stainless steel and copper. This is how Provap is making them. It works like a charm! I put 2 grams and it took less than two minutes. No more battery to carry around!!! Thank you so much for showing!
That is awesome news!
Did you get the desired results from doing it in terms of the treatment?
@@shakamuni01 No! After couple try the pipe was leaking and the end was getting block with residue of oxalic. It was a fun toy to try but it did'n last long.
Nice! Couldn't be any easier or cheaper to make. Thanks.
This is what I use.. I made mine from brass but it works well
Fecilitation tres simple a faire Merci
I like the idea of being able to build something myself, that doesn't cost an arm and a leg. I've seen a couple of comments somewhere else saying the vapor isn't as effective if above a certain temperature. Using a propane torch as the heat source, it seems it would be easy for me to be over the optimum temperature and not even know it... Do I have a valid concern? Thanks!
I think I might make this with a T instead of a elbow so I can add from the top
Nice make 1 that holds 4 grams 1 gram does not work but that is cool what u made
why not use copper? bc the threaded cap?
sweet
Any problems using all brass fittings? $28 in brass fittings from the hardware store isn't bad at all for building a homemade vaporizer!
Good idea and video. Do you treat in the winter when the brood is low?
No, it gets to cold here. I will be doing a mite check this spring.
I would like to replace 90 with tee and stopper. Relief valve in case tip clogs ;) no kaboom!
Use a slightly larger and longer copper tube
Do not use galvanized pipe, use copper, black pipe... brass... whatever.
right, galvanized is poison when heated
@@olddave4833 use galvanized pipe and drop it into a bucket of hydrochloric acid to remove the galvanization. or drop itinto a fire and burn it off. galvanization is a coating, not a type of steel.
@@schlomoshekelstein908 yes yes, everyone knows this. We call it 'galvanized pipe.'
I love making things cheaper than you can buy in the shops or online. This is wonderful and it works but he cost of the initial plumbing fittings and ongoing use of the propane are dearer than a factory made one from Amazon at less than £20. That seems the way now, cheaper to buy stuff ready made than save some money and make it yourself ☹️ They are taking the fun out of everything ☹️☹️😭
most people seem to be using 2 grams
No, no. The temperature is not good. 🤐
how so, did all his bees die?
@@olddave4833 ProVap220 v mine is a Hungarian product.
Very good video...I'm beekeeper from Greece and I have Chanel in youtube
It’s better for you to Buy a pro Vape 110.Ask do you have each use of this one you have to wait for it to cool down and it’s gonna take much longer this way. I know that the probate 110 is costly but this is definitely not a good alternative. The idea overall I understand is a good idea but it’s not practical enough
are you a salesman?
I went thru this too. I built a copper one.
Then I tried the bug vaporizer. It rusts out bad. I bought a varro-x. It's slow.
Finally pulled trigger on a pro vape and won't go back.
Sorry but you'll end up there eventually.
If you have ten hives, just make ten of these. These look cheap to make. When you treat just leave the thing in the hive and move on to the next hive and treat. Do this right down the line. If you have more than ten in one location, Im confident the first one is cooled down by then.
@@beebob1279 Don't even need to do that , just have multiple caps with OA already prepared. Just switch them out so you don't have to heat up the entire apparatus again.
Are you in Hugo?
Yes
Seems like a respirator wouldn’t be necessary if you put on the heat like you did and get away from it before it starts smoking. Hold your breath after it’s done to turn off the torch and step away.
Lol, no. Any trace of the vapor can really burn your lungs. Had it happen!
Careful with the temperature. Overheating oxalic acid changes it and makes it less effective. 230 degrees is the recommended temp.
According to the CDC, oxalic acid Sublimation temperature is 157° C (314.6°F) and the "Melting point (decomposes) of oxalic acid is 189.5°C (373°F). Here is the link: www.cdc.gov/niosh/ipcsneng/neng0529.html
@@MinnesotaBeekeeper - I followed the link, and it displays a 'Page not Found' message.
@@johnm.6422 This would be maybe better. Fred Dunn interviewing Janos Fenyosy,. czcams.com/video/Bry6rcXpmjQ/video.html