Can we make 300RWKW out of a v6 Holden?
Vložit
- čas přidán 25. 02. 2023
- hello again everyone, in this video we are putting my procharged lfx v6 holden up on the dyno at Revhigh Tuning Solutions to see what kind of power we can make, can we make 300rwkw (400rwhp)? or are we dreaming and falling victim to "no replacement for displacement" stay tuned to find out
For any tuning needs or builds that you may have i can not suggest Revhigh Tuning Solutions enough here is a link for you to follow if you require any work or modification done to your vehicle
www.revhigh.com.au/ - Sport
I am a tuner, 54 yo, been in the performance engine building game since I started work at 17yo, engine dyno, car and bike chassis dyno .
Firstly, you calibrate the load cell according to dyno manufactures specifications. Then this sets up accurate torque measurements .
My last dyno by dynamic dyno Australia ( Melbourne company) you stacked 100 kg on the load cell and went into the calibration of the dyno and made sure it read 100 kg. The rest is just maths converting roller speed , or using engine rpm. If all dyno are calibrated properly then they should be very close and accurate. All other bullshit is mythology !
Now, there are many shady characters, fraudsters Charleston’s, all works of life and dyno tuning has many.
Dyno dynamic dyno, have the X button, this allows you to fiddle the correction factor of the dyno to give you what ever reading you want!
The Charleston’s, use this on the very first run to show your car making less than it actually does , by say putting in a correction factor of
0.90 . The car will be down by 10% . Then they do there tuning and then go back I to the keyboard x button and change the correction factor to 1.20 ( for example). Now the car will show an increase of 30% over the first run. A trained eye can spot this by looking at the air fuel ration
Ignition timing and the before and after graph, as it’s not possible to gain a 30% improvement at every rpm on the graph .
And torque curves should not move forward or backwards but look identical just out by some rpm number .
Run will Robison run! The dyno should be set up and left alone from start to finish, changing ramp rates or fudge factors is a sign your dealing with a shady operator. A decent operator should know with years of tuning under his belt what works . Changing these things mid session mean you are no longe comparing apples to apples . The whole reason your on a dyno is the accurate measurements it provides
Why would you want to change its parameters mid session throwing this away? Run Forrest Run!
Dyno dynamic tries to eliminate this in shoot out mode . It will be printed on the graph and on the screen that it’s in shoot out mode.
Sadly, people get into to this business solely to make money! There not true enthusiasts ! They have not been building and tuning engine all there life, or done training course, tuning courses. Most have purchased a dyno, had a few hours training on how to operate the dyno .
Then they call them selfs tuners!
I laugh when I see the goal being a number, max torque and max power. All other things are secondary, going to shop to shop, dyno to dyno until they get a number there happy with. And I have sat in many cars and road many a bike that has had many hours of tuning by many different people and the car or bike was awful ! It drove like a cranky pig! And I have heard every excuse for why it’s a pig, big cam, big throttle body, laggy turbo and on it goes.
I show the customer that the fudge factor is set to 1 ( x button ) that the wide band sensor was x days or weeks old and I had many new spare in case I started seeing fuel numbers that didn’t make sense . Easy change the wide and sensor.
And in 99.9% of the time the dyno sheet with before and after number was total bullshit , with many making less power after tuning than there before number.
I could show my dyno wasn’t reading low or high by showing 100kg on the load cell was a 100kg in the calibration section on the dyno.
But after driving the car or bike , the difference was very noticeable, as the car felt great to drive!
A well tuned car always feels nice to drive, that’s the result of tuning!
Power comes from the mods , compression, cam, port work, boost.
How long the engine lives after tuning is always down to how skilled the tuner is, engines making absolute peak power
Generally don’t live long!
But a guy who knows what he is doing, won’t be chasing a peak number.
Customers can also be an issue here, cause they demand that peak number. It’s all that matters, they will rubbish a business and a low
reading dyno, rubbish a tuner cause he didn’t get that last 10 kw’s , yet praise the idiot tuner that has the engine on the knifes edge
And found that missing 10 kw, then live with the fact the cars a pig to drive , cause the idiot tuner is a guru for finding that last 10 kw.
See my last tuning shop, built and tuned bike that went drag racing, Dyno number mean bugger all, it’s the time slip!
Hard to convince a customer you found 30% more power if the bike is slower down the 1/4 mile or if the trap speed is slower.
And many a time my so called low reading dyno had a bike go faster the it was tuned by the guru dyno guy with his web down loaded generic map made in America on a fuel far different than we run here in Australia.
They would down load a map, that worked on a bike with the same k@n filter, same pipe etc,
Then use the dyn’s auto correct fuel mapping routines to get it looking close on cruise.
Tuner they where not not! And the 1/4 mile times proved it.
There are some great dyno operators and engine tuners out there and most are very costly, as they use the cost to weed out the time wasters and idiots chasing a number .
Direct injection or not, it’s been long established that boosted engines need fuel to keep the cylinder temps in check and to keep knock at bay. This is why the factory tune, 16:52 on any engine runs rich at wide open throttle boosted or not, it’s about making the engine last a warranty period
Not making peek power! Sure every time you lean out a rich mixture it makes power. But at what cost?
Some simple maths on boost numbers should give you an expected power number, minus some friction loses , losses due to heat soak etc.
But you should error on a lower than expected number , an ignition timing a few degrees below peak torque number.
And air fuel ration richer than a peak torque number and a car that drive nicely after tuning and performance as they dyno sheet suggests.
The rest is bullshit to part you from your cash!
True performance is measurable, get your self a draggy or something that can reliably measure your cars acceleration.
Do some testing before the dyno visit and then some more after the tune, If your new dyno sheet suggest the dyno session found 30% more power yet your own testing shows no improvement , then you know that session was a waste of money .
But by all means chase a number on a printed sheet and keep emptying the wallet if that’s what gets you excited
Oh and blowing black smoke on a dyno normally mean the afr ratio is well bellow 10:1 or there is a problem.
I have never seen a car even set rich by the factory blow black fuel smoke out the exhaust.
Run Forrest run fast and far way .
I’m a ford guy but it was a good video,still like holdens
sounds pretty good and decent power bud :0 keen for the future of the car :)
getting there slowly, 6 piston brakes up front is the next upgrade hoping to get that done in the next few months so stay tuned :)
Old mate at 7:10 was like yeah, yeah, yeah, nah. Fu.... 😂 video popped onto the feed after watching your other video you mention Ross did. Looks good, goes good. Well done
thanks mate :) glad you enjoyed, stay tuned because the full build of this car is coming very soon aiming for 500rwkw going to see if its possible every step of the journey will be uploaded here :)
i had 290rwkw from hitorque from just an otr and resonator instead of the muffler, then went to gc cars nerang and got pretty much a straight pipe exhaust from down pipe and made 269rwkw
i got a mate with a single turbo alloytec had the crank ground to take small block chev rods also fitted small block chev pistons and a manual chain tensioner with a gtr gearbox and 4wd in a mazda 6. Makes 650hp at all 4 wheels pretty easy on pump gas.
that would be insanely fun car to drive
@@osrsoutdoors was actually pretty hard to drive it struggled to put the power down even with 4wd. Here is the car was twin turbo for some reason i though it was single. He's got a 89 honda prelude rwd twin charged 4age running 65 psi boost thats insane to drive lol. czcams.com/video/rjJk23Xjd0U/video.html
@@mikejarden3679 tat is one serious bit of kit, makes me wonder what mines going to do when we cram 20psi++ into the final build
You game I’m too scared to use the Stock sv6 kw’s in my wife’s care in case it blows up
engine code? i am a swede so got no info on these cars since we dont have em here
Only made in Australia from 2013-2017 when the plant shut down.
its a lfx v6 in the alloytech family of gm v6 engines
I notice it say aollytech so dose that mean these lfx engine still have timing chains issues
@@joshlinton9355 the lfx is a part of the alloytech family however this is the predecessor of the llt engine which means it's more refined, timing chains aren't as much of an issue with the lfx but timing chains on any engine will always be something to keep an eye on
@@osrsoutdoors awesome cheers mate its that I got 2014 vf 3.6 Strom edition one and was wanting to do the same as you but more looking into turboing it rather then supercharger
@@joshlinton9355 the goat tt kits have a load of problems, I know someone who had it Installed and for 2 years now he's been chasing his tail trying to get it to run right and according to him loads of other people with the kits are having the same issues, I have hears there's a single turbo kit in the works for the vf lfx engines at the moment I would wait until that comes on the market
you would pick up at least 10kw maby more if you used stock standard rear wheel/tyres i use to have a rolling road dyno putting mags on always robbed power i got a mainline pro hub now days not an issue anymore.
yeah when i do track days and drags and whatnot i will be getting a set of 18's but for street use shows and cruises etc these will be the mags im running
@@osrsoutdoors what i ment is we use to have a pair of 235/45/17 stock holden wheels next to out dyno we would use to sometimes get a more repeatable number. Sometimes to just to demonstrate to customers there car hasn't lost 20hp since we tuned it your new wheels rodded you.
@@mikejarden3679 i see, i still have my stock rims they're 18's 245/40/18 all around may take them with me on the next dyno session