Part 3 Reloading Dies Compared - Redding Dies
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- Our project was to compare Hornady, Redding and Lyman die sets with the goal of loading 50 rounds each for range testing...Unfortunately, with Redding, we were only able to load 4 rounds...let's show you how this happened...And once again, the brass was Starline, not Winchester - I grabbed the Starline jug by mistake...
The micrometer seemed overkill for the purpose too. I'm enjoying this series, friend.
A marketing scheme to catch the attention of people who want "precision." Like the rattle or blinking light in a fishing lure- there to catch fisherman!
I love your newer "angry" work. Factory crimp seems to solve all problems for me.
The Redding web site is a disaster too! Can't speak to Redding's quality as I only have RCBS and Dillon dies.
It’s disappointing that a great American Reloading tool company doesn’t mention in their literature that these reloading Dies are not suitable for cast bullets . I bet tens of thousands of handloaders have purchased Redding dies to load cast bullets only to find that they have the same problem as FortuneCookie45LC .
Could be, but im pretty sure 76highboy loads plenty of cast bullets in 45 colt or whatever. Maybe it depends on which redding die set you get.
It is in their instructions. This die not to be used with lead. Just a standard seating die will work from Redding.
Whats up LC!! I stick to my lee dies for my cast lead stuff and they work fantastic! Thanks for sharing!!!
A one time chamfer, not usually associated with pistol bullets, should help that. Good video.
Funny how all the other dies don't have an issue, yet the Redding does. I'd never buy a Redding pistol die.
Muy buenos tips para calibrar los dados de .45 Long Colt, yo no tengo dados con el micrómetro, pero ese es un aditamento que se le puede adaptar a los dados..!! Muy bien explicado..!! Excelente video
@13:32 yep that terminology came right from the paper work that came with the dies !!
I’m enjoying the series. I have been a lee die purchaser in the past and have expanded to RCBS dies; very happy thus far. Excellent series and great knowledge drops 😃👍🏻 reloading 44 special/magnum. Learning a lot about dies. I’m not a huge fan of worrying about grease/oil prior to working with them. But I always wipe them down with rem oil lightly prior to storage. 😃👍🏻
I have done more research on the subject and should be receiving a Redding Micrometer Seating die for 9mm very soon to test.
Several forums members wrote that you have not set the seating die properly.
I also contacted Redding before purchasing making sure this die also works with .356 powder coated cast Bullet and do not cause lead shavings.
Their response was that it works and the shaving was due to die not being set and used properly.
Have you tried to contact Redding to get some help and confirm you are using their die properly ?
Respectfully of course
Remove the expander plug for the expander die , and screw in the seating stem , and seat the bullet then crimp with the crimp die only. Works great with cast bullets , I use it on the 4570, - Gary from Dillons recommendation
Great review made me feel like I was in the room listening you . I have a few Lee a few RCBS and a load of Hornady . Shoot mostly cast so this was a great review .
TYTYTY.
I guess the tolerance is too tight in the seater die, and I suppose it’s that way to help keep the bullet in alignment when seating. Great for accurate jacketed or solid copper bullets, not so much for cast!
Like you said “it would’ve been nice to know that”!
And for the price of those die sets, you should be able to load any bullet for said caliber, not to mention a freakin shell holder! That just baffles me that these companies can’t seem to throw a shell holder into these “premium/Deluxe” die sets.
Or how about a extra seater plug/stem or two?
But I seriously hope you contacted Redding about that shaving issue. Plated bullets are going to do the same thing!
Redding instructions state the their Competition Bullet Seating Die should not be used with lead bullets. While I love the quality and precision of their dies I had a similar issue that you experienced. You need to switch to their non competition bullket seating die for lead. Hope this helps.
There is an adjustment in the micrometer head to adjust the seating stem further down to eliminate that issue and give you the correct amount of seating stem needed to do that action properly.... I have a competition Cedar guy and that's all I've ever used it on is cast powder-coated bullets
I mostly use Dillon , they work very well . Many Thanks !!
Do you find the lead in for the size die too large? I think Dillon size dies are made to feed for a progressive press. My Dillon 9mm size die does not even hit the lower half of the brass...
@@ironbomb6753 I have not used 9mm for years , it did work fine .
@@danoneill2846 thanks for replying. Happy shooting 👍😎
I got Redding dies for 6.8 western, put a case in my FLS die , pulled it out and it was covered in a gray grease… I’m soaking mine in parts cleaner. Then I’ll spray a light coat oil
Thanks for this video, Fortune Cookie. I have Redding die sets for six calibers. Found out they "run tight." Like you said, not great for cast bullets. Now, use Lee dies to seat and crimp.
All of Redding's micrometer dies have an adjustment to lengthen or shorten The seating stem you only get a few hundred thou of adjustment with the micrometer you have to adjust the length of the seating stem to get your gross starting point . You have to put an allen key down inside the head of the micrometer and screw the seating stem up or down
Fortune Cookie, if you would have watched your series on reloading dies you would have known that the Redding Dies are for solid or jacketed bullets and that the RCBS Cowboy dies are for the lead and coated bullets.
Thanks for all you do, that we know ahead of time before buying reloading equipment, so we do not get stuck with stuff that will not work for our situation.
Personally being I do Solid Copper or Jacketed Lead bullets only, along with my OCD, I have gone with the Redding Competition (all steel/non carbine) Handgun Setting Die for my 45 Colt rounds. And I have no case bulge going on what so ever.
And if I ever start to load lead or coated lead bullets I would get a set of the RCBS Cowboy Dies for that purpose if only they made them in all steel/non carbide. Yeh, I do not like case bulges at all! Probably would have to use a Redding all steel sizing die and then only use the expander and roll crimp die of the RCBS Cowboy die set to get the job done right.
My favorite Redding die set is the dual carbide set for the 357. Sadly they don't make one for the 41 Mag.
My first Redding die was a neck sizer for 7.5 Swiss. At the time Lee didn't offer their collet die in that cartridge. After that I switched all my neck sizing to the Redding dies. I did have a problem with the one for 223. The die was cut too short. If you didn't back it off it would push the shoulder back shorter than SAAMI minimum.
Well I ran into the same issue with Redding premium dies with micrometer bullet seating die for 45ACP. I got lead shaving on PCd bullets sized to .452 - which was not an issue with my vintage 60s carbide Lyman die set or the Lee die set. I emailed them and told them I bought the Redding die set because I like to cast bullets from Saeco molds, and just assumed the company making the dies that also makes some of the best bullet molds, that it would only make sense they would have the best dies for their bullet molds. They told me to send fired cases and a half dozen of bullets. A week later they told me they can machine the seating die opening to match my bullets....so if you got Redding dies and are getting shaving, email them and send them a couple of all your favorite bullets you load for and for the cost of shipping you'll have factory custom dies for the exact bullets you cast and size
Thanks Steve, that was quite an education.
I have the same issue with a Redding .40S&W die set using 180g lead bullets; no matter how much bell I put on the case, the seating die body closes it up before the bullet is seated, resulting in a shaved bullet. I get around it by swopping out the expander stem and replacing it with the seating stem which luckily is the same thread diameter. The expander die body has a much wider opening and so doesn’t close up the bell as the bullet seats. This works for me and the loaded rounds are very accurate at 25 metres. I guess the dies are engineered for jacketed bullets only. Not good considering cheaper die sets achieve the same results without the fuss.
This was helpful as a cast bullet reloader
They should have at least offered different seating stems, or preferably include different seating stems like some other manufacturers do..
Regarding lubing of cases for carbide dies; you will be happy with the result if you do that. Especially since you wet tumble lube or ultra soinic wet clean. When you drain the rinse water from your cases put the drained wet cases in a bowl and for every 100 or so cases work a pinto bean sized piece of Lee Case Lube onto them as if you are Midas running his fingers through his gold coins. Work in in untill all are covered and no lube residue is seen. Let dry as you always do. The sizing die will run butter smooth with little effort.
So you handle EVERY piece of brass?
@@ironbomb6753 I handle the brass in batches of same caliber and brand (mostly Starline). I typically run in batches of 100 if using ultrasonic cleaner as it is smaller, but can do many hundred in my Thumblers Tumbler. I rinse in a sink basin and work the lube through the whole batch after draining, but still wet. I dry in a 4 tier food dehydrator..
Yep, I actually use a little lube on my carbide sizers also. Well most of the time, I get lazy sometimes and just go for it!
And yes it does make those cases flow through with much less effort, it’s also easier on your carbide insert and will make them last even longer.
@Fortunecookie45LC - I really enjoy your videos. You are very good at giving good information and procedures and I also very much appreciate your candor when you like or dislike a particular thing. As always, I look forward to all your new videos.
Thanks for that video. Sorry I haven't been commenting on your videos. I barely have time to watch any videos. Busy time in my life. I'm just earning a lot of money for the future and our GTFO out of Illinois. We are looking at Chattanooga Tennessee. My sponsor for my channel is there and I think they are going to hire me to sell firearms and reloading supplies for them when they get the retail store open. They also want me to do videos at the store so that will be nice. I love the high end die sets but the good old Lee dies will always get the job done. I'm looking for a good micromiter seeing die for my 5.56 and my 7.62x51 die sets. Of course me die sets are the Lee kits but I like to upgrade them. I have the m neck expanding dies for all my calibers that I reload. I love those expanding dies. I have never had any issues with lead bullets not starting right in the cases. Thank you for the advice on the M expanding dies. Now the big thing for me is the seating dies. Don't have any of the micromiter seeing dies at this point. I used to have several of them for my precision rifle sets. I'm starting to want to get them for at least 2 calibers for now. I really like that press but I'm running out of space on my bench. I'm up to 3 tables now. I'm going to have all this reloading and gunsmithing equipment with no one to pass it down to. So I'm starting to slow down on buying new equipment. Looking back I was doing alright with my basic Lee kit and I didn't have thousands of dollars tied up in me reloading equipment. It makes me sad that I'm the end of the line. Ny nephew isn't interested in reloading. He loves to shoot but he thinks that the ammunition just grows on trees. That kid has no drive or a job. I had been working for 6 years by the time I was his age. It all started with delivering newspapers. I guess kids have a magic hole where they get money from. Well you have a great day. Happy Safe Shooting.
Enjoyed the video. I am wondering which press you are using.
Forster co ax press
Great reviews
I'm no expert but when I saw the straight case and the powder coated bullets I had to roll my eyes. In my experience, for pistol ammo, Lee and basic Hornady dies are all you need -- and maybe Dillon if you're going factory-mode. In my world, Redding is for rifle dies where their high-end models produce consistency and concentricity.
This is an excellent video.
The first time reloader can use Lee dies and get perfect rounds, every time. If you, FC, couldn’t make it work, no one can!
also if jou use a little lube almost nothing(or dry lube ) .it will make even with carbide dies the work and wear and tear of the progressive press much more pleasant
Would more belling be the answer ?
I am always a little suspiciuous with that press that holds the die only at de lockring ,i like the full thread hold, and dead end of the press
if seating leadbullets lubed or powder coated ,i use the lee universal case mouth expander ,then a dead end seater one caliber higher (die against the shellholder).and last but not least a lee factory or collet crimper , it looks a lot extra work but you get fully undamaged bullets(coating) in the case
micro meter screws are not worth the money ,becaus you have to remove the die anytime again its not repeatable ,and adjust and measure at the begin is necessary anyway ,can be done with a normal seatingstem
@peteralexben By not "locking" the dies in the press, the shellplate and floating die work together to perfectly align the case inside the die body. Better concentricity results, Forster does this by design.
Me, again. I am sure some good cast boolit loaders use Redding dies. I think your choice of the semi-wad cutter is the unexpected probem. Their 45ACP die probably woould have got it did, except the crimp would have been a taper instead of a roll. It is not that the J-word bullet was special, it just had the Redding appropriate shape.
prs
Would using a VLD cutter inside the case mouth prevent this shaving. Or possibly chamfering the outside of the case mouth just a bit more, or both. As I could see a very shiny ring on the outside mouth of the case after coming out of the die and you doing a close up of it. Also note that it was an uneven pattern so mabey just mabey a heavy film of dried greese or oil dried like a shellac. Just guessing at a troubleshooting solution.
I have one set of Redding because its what was available at the time for a particular cartridge. I was not impressed.
I'm pretty much a Lee Die fan... best bang for the buck in my experience.
Try screwing the seating stem into the mouth flaring die body and seat the bullet only, then crimp only with the crimp die body
That could make a difference, however I've not had issues like these when doing the sea and crimp at the same time with Lee dies. That said, I prefer to seat and crimp in separate operations.
A very harsh but fair review FC. Do you intend to contact manufacturer regarding the "shaving"?
bullets have 'fat spots' maybe from the powder coat ?? chamfer your case mouths??
I'm having a LOT of fun with the new 358-200 mould, I'm about to break 2000 fps -no pressure signs yet- then back off till I get 2"groups @ 100 yards, it'll do as a 125+ yard mulie rifle... don't ya think ?? It still has over 1000 ft.lbs. energy at that range
so apprently videos like these are not allowed on youtube aynmore? clarification?
Customer service doesn’t seem to be part of Redding’s DNA. Horrible instructions and awful website. I got a set of used .243 dies. Seater die makes it impossible to change the plug. Hornady gives you two plugs and the ability to buy one to fit your bullet the best.
Forster dies are expensive, but the instructions are fantastic.
Regarding the Redding instructions; it is like pouring pee out of a boot, the instructions are printed on the heel. ;-)
I don't know (because I was not there) but I suspect that the "shaving" of the bullet would not happen if you flared the case mouth just a little bit more. You call it "blunderbuss." I know that you might not want to "work" the brass overmuch, but I have 45 Colt brass that has been loaded more than 30 times and the "bell" flare, if kept to a minimum, doesn't seem to hurt it.
I believe Redding's Founder / owner wrote a reloading book. The ABC's of Reloading is the title. You are expected to buy it...
I sorta assumed Redding Handgun dies were FMJ or maybe plated bullet dies. If you want to shoot precision 1000 yard MOA with your handgun you need precision bullets. Cast Lead bullets are only good for 50 yard Bullseye Shooting... 😂😆😂😆
I read once that 98% of where a bullet goes is controlled by the shooter. When I get to where I put 98 shots thru the same hole with two flyers because of my dies I will fix my problem. Until then I am happy with cast boolits and Lee dies bullseye shooting trying to get them all in the Bullseye.
I cannot close without posting every remark ever said about the Lee FCD sizing lead bullets. Nobody except you dared to show that Redding Dies do exactly what Lee FCD is crucified for doing. Odd how, everybody complains about a $45 Lee (4) die set but not a $200 Redding (3) die set and $20 shell holder. 😂😆😂😆
Well put bud, 👍
Note to all: don’t pull your bullets if you happen to shave off a bit of lead or powder coat for Christ sakes
Cant get the seater right!? SMH! Thats an expensive mistake.
oh c'mon, the instructions have printed clearly on the top of the page "For rifle and handgun . . ." They are common to all Redding dies. You should be glad they aren't specific to the cartridge, otherwise you could get the wrong instructions in a packaging mishap. Theyre die makers, not packagers, surely the consumer can figure iut which instructions apply? I lube large rifle cases whether the die is carbide or not, and you should too!
Fortunecookie45lc. You are awesome!!! I respect your knowledge! And I take your advice
Not like the Lee instructions that come with the die sets.