Heating Expansion TANK problems SOLVED
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- čas přidán 23. 04. 2020
- Don't ignore the loft, lots of faults to solve, boilers with NO frost protection, poor lagging tank lid is off, ladder no steps etc.etc.
This video may help
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Love your videos George 👍
Hi Alfy, Many thanks for taking the time to leave us a lovely review, take care, george
Dear Alfy, Many thanks for taking time and your review which I love, just making a few on Rads & valves, all the best george staszak
Great informative video! An energy company as part of government scheme installed new heating controls and 3 separate zoned motorised valves on my Potterton Suprima 50 F&E system. Ever since it pumps over when the boiler shuts down, my guess is when one or more valves shut the pump still runs causing the hot water to pump into the F&E tank...
I've installed a wilos picos pump hoping that would cure it with a bit of fine tuning of the pump settings. No luck, will extending the vent pipe by 2 meters cure the issue or is it best to completely seal the system with an expansion vessel etc? thanks
Hi, Neo, as video shows the pump is 5 - 6 meters from the top of the water in E Tank but its the BEND above that also needs the same distance to stop " pumping over" also "pump over run" to cool the exchanger to 59 deg.
I found 2 meter extension often does the trick, as long as from the pump centre to that bend is
5 -6m away, NO pump over, NO sludge.
Don't forget the cold feed in 22mm in a " J " as picture shows to speed up fill & venting.
Your installer missed lesson 1 on F & E tanks.
regards
George Staszak
🥰
@@mrcombiBedford Perfect 👌pump is above my boiler in the kitchen & vent pipe runs upstairs to the airing cupboard and into the attic so approx 10 metres. Will try the vent extension, hopefully will stop the pump overrun flowing into the F&E tank . Thank you George 👍
@@Neo-mw1pp Hi Neo, sorry missed this message, If you have 10m from a pump to bend it cannot pump over, some this is wrong, Nr. 1 common fault is auto by-pass needs adjusting, Nr. 2 pump facing the wrong way or speed too high. At that distance the cold feed can be 15mm. less than 6m distance then 22mm is best. Don't extend the vent pipe I think its pipes below the loft. Is it like the drawing? From the boiler FLOW 22mm equal 'T' then cold feed then auto B Pass then valve(s) or straight to rads. good luck, George Staszak
I'm getting a bit of condensation in the loft, guessing it's from the FE tank, it hasn't got a secure lid, just a flimsy loose bit of insulation wrapped in plastic. Should it have a secure lid with a vent I'm guessing so air can get in ?
Thanks
Hi Matthew, thanks for the question, yes you are dead right, both tanks must be well covered and lagged. Back in the 70's and 80's when ever I had to enter a loft I took a bucket and carrier bags to remove drowned rads, mice and birds because someone did not cover both tanks correctly. This is still the case today, no one checks if all is OK.
It looks to me the little explosion tank is "pumping over" as you saw in the video. You can see your self is so and after the heating goes OFF when the pump stops does it happen then.
Another problem is your loft lacks ventilation, Often neighbours have the same roof see what vents they have. In your loft have a look if the vents are blocked with insulation along the facia
that would cause damp lofts. Call a roof tiler or small builder for free advice. All house and room need air movement, not a draft regards george staszak Mr Combi.
@@mrcombiBedford thanks, I've secured the lid allot better and will improve the ventilation also
@@matthewparker4517 Hi Matthew, I thought so it needed a bit of lagging. Most installers hate going in dark dirty lofts thus as you see tanks and pipes are in a poor state.
A message to all, if you have loft tanks when your boilers is checked every year ask to pop in the loft, don't forget to pay for extra work and have peace of mind. Thanks for the update, regards. george staszak
Hi, can someone explain why it is necessary to have a pipe that comes over the top of the expansion tank? Can water not just expand up through the pipe that comes out of the bottom of the tank? Also does the pipe need to be 22mm - could it be 15mm if it is situated in the loft, a considerable distance from the boiler?
Hi William, thanks for asking, easy, as heating water it expands +4% volume it has to go somewhere.
In the 60's - 1970's most systems had a floor standing boiler in the kitchen, a 22mm pipe went to the loft F & E tank a 15mm cold feed pipe went to the cylinder bottom feed to fill the system - all was well nothing wrong.
As the pump (on the RETURN) started that increased the pressure the system coped OK.
When fitted on the FLOW it would "pump over" making sludge which would settle in the rads and ruin everything.
1970's Rules were changed the cold freed to 22mm and auto by-pass MUST be fitted + inhibitor
Unfortunately most UK installers ignored this thus we have suffered to-date its sill goes on today.
Hope that answers your question.
Take care ☺George Staszak
Hi William, thanks for asking, first the pipe cannot be reduced because the system water needs to hit the EV as soon as poss to stop the pressure increase, a 15mm pipe will INCREASE the system pressure, the 22mm pipe is part of that expansion.
It does not matter which direction the pipe is, normally most are top because easier to solder and fit as in my video, all the best, George Staszak 👌
hi.... I had a new worcester combi (gravity fed) boiler fitted a couple of years ago. when ever I turn the thermo up about 21c..... the boiler gurgles and bangs, then steam gets blasted in to the feed tank above the boiler.
can you confirm I need to extend the 22mm pipe and put a pressure valve on..... or is that just for sealed units? thank you.
Hi Flying hero, Pressure R Valves are only for sealed Combi systems, you problem is sludge or a pump problem. As it's a couple of years old go back to the installer to fix it U/Gtee. Consumer Law stats is should be of reasonable quality and last a reasonable time. Any problems with them call Gas Safe with a complaint, also call the factory for guidance. regards, george staszak
@@mrcombiBedford thank you for your reply George. when the boiler was installed the gas guy did do a flush of the system to get rid of sludge... he did say it was quiet bad.... but he also replaced a couple of rads, but it never sorted it.. the pump I replaced last year. do you think another power flush would help? thank you
@@flyinghero5283 Sounds as if the "flushing" was not done enough or correctly. All the rads should have been removed to clean and then the whole power flushed BEFORE and AFTER the boiler change. You have a very serious poor circulating problem and should NOT use it until 100% safe. Call the factory today. regards george
@@mrcombiBedford thank you again George... I will get on it... happy Christmas mate
Just to clarify. My vent to the pump iscurrently 1.7mts to the pump. Does this mean I will need to increase this by 0.3mtrs or above to make this over 2 mtrs.
Hi Alan, thanks for asking, is it pumping over, if no all is well? As video, pump screw straight up to top of water should be 6m, but 2m may work.
Easy way is cut the 22mm vent pipe ABOVE the tank kick over about 60deg. extend 2m repipe back to tank, this saves changing 15mm to 22mm.
Don't forget uber clip and EXTRA lag the extended pipe.
Don't NEVER solder in the loft always use metal connections never plastic coz they split in the cold.
Happy Xmas, george staszak
@@mrcombiBedford Thanks the immediate answer and additional advise. I shall extend the vent pipe as you stated and I’m sure this will fix things.
Merry Xmas to you.
Alan
@@alanupcraft2758 It works done that lots of times.george