Wheel Bearing Noise~~Don't Make This Mistake~~QUICK TUTORIAL
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- Wheel Bearing Noise~~Don't Make This Mistake~~QUICK TUTORIAL, In this video ill so you how to diagnose noise coming front your front suspension, just because it sounds like a wheel bearing doesn't mean that's what it is.
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#badwheelbearing #frontendnoise #autorepairtips
Good idea, replace everything so you cannot tell what was wrong in the first place.
😅😅😅 , lord I laugh so hard at your comment 🤣
😂😂 I was thinking the same thing. Always thought it was useless to replace the rotors. Only reason why you will replace them it's because you don't like seeing rust on them.
Actually doesn’t sound like a bad idea
@@calvinhoward2277 and need real ones that are cross drilled and slotted. It gives you 28 EXTRA HP! Score.
He has to pay for that garage somehow. ‘Murica! Thank the good lord for Yelp and google reviews so we can weed out these shady mechanics. You replace ONE part that’s not working, not everything to run up a $17k bill. Hood shame. Also the wheel is supposed to stop like that. Duh.
Love how you can tell he also replaced the wheel HUB's
Zero rust, new and shiny.
Someone had trouble diagnosing this one and replaced everything that turns.
Or he went ahead and replaced everything with the "Think of the children!" excuse at huge cost to the customer.
I think it is the former rather than the latter, as he forgot to explain why this was or wasn't a wheel bearing noise in the video.
That seems to be the after thought by making it the video title itself.
Wouldn't be hard to bleed test and actuation test the caliper piston and see if the brakes actually needed to be rebuilt.
Then test drive to make sure nothing is actually damaged from the locking up.
Yeh this video is pretty suspect. Why didn't he just pull the pads out and show it spinning freely with no noise if it wasn't bearing, which he obviously replaced as well?. Poor customer must of paid $1500+ for this replace absolutely everything in pairs job
Haha right? He complains about people not knowing what the heck they’re doing, but he didn’t diagnose anything at all. Just threw parts at it.
He didn’t need to imo, the cost of labour checking everything will outweigh the cost of doing the whole job. Anyway you should be able to do jobs like that yourself.
That’s why I work on my own vehicles and always double and triple check my work because I don’t simply trust I did it right.
I have had bad experience with taking my vehicles to mechanics.
I can not find a trustworthy mechanic. So many times I've had repairs done two or more times to get it right.
@@chrisbondra2090 or the clowns /Mechanics hit somethin and do not own up to it...like sensors not plugged...or worse a breaker bar to the brake line and flatten it ..ouch
Amen 👍🏾
"Professional" only means they do it for money. It does not imply any level of skill or trustworthiness.
@@josephastier7421 Amen to that. Its like doing electrical or plumbing in your house, i CAN do it just as good if not better than a professional but "code" requires a licensed "professional" ....
The best way I have found to detect a bad wheel bearing is quickly check the temperature of the hub after driving, bad bearings are going to heat up and will be considerably hotter than the normal(good) bearings on the car or truck. A visual inspection (plus lack of noise) should be sufficient to understand it's not a braking issue.
Great idea, thanks for sharing! 👍🏼
Good thinking!! Gonna try it.
Solid, solid advice. Currently replacing a wheel bearing, noticed that symptom months ago (also, the entire rotor looked more rusted than the other because of the insane heat cycles after driving), bearing was about 95% seized. Sure enough the inside of the hub was blue from the heat
Outstanding suggestion!!!!
I've got one of those laser thermometers we use in the kitchen for $15-20. Think I'll take the 06 Murano 167K miles out tomorrow morning for a 10 min drive then see which of the front bearings comes back hotter.
That is awesome. I never really think to get temps off of stuff anymore. Super easy idea.
Mechanics recommendation is always to change the faulty part and and everything in its proximity
or to buy one of his used cars from his lot.
Yes their recommendation is to change everything because they have no idea what the f.. is wrong and then they can charge you a whole bunch of money in labor .
One time I took my car 5o the mechanic because I needed to replace the front wheel hub " both tires " he was going to charge me $ 1000.00 for the whole job 🤬
You can’t be a mechanic or else you wouldn’t need to watch this video lol
Yup. Negligent. Failed to change out the transmission, engine, entire wiring harness, headlights, etc. Vehicle had a noise. Shoulda just scrapped it, bought a new one. Its the only way to be sure.
@@AyeThereGoMalco No, but I know the difference between New and rusted out old parts.
Just don't appreciate seeing these garages screw people.
I know this doesn’t have to do with the problem specifically in this video, but for someone else out there that this may help. I just put three brand new alternators from autozone on my wife’s car before I got a good one. And every time I took it back to autozones it tested fine on their machine. From my understanding the machine doesn’t draw power long enough for it to have shown the issue, which is why it never caught it. Apparently it’s a common issue with autozone. So for anyone else out there, never assume your brand new parts will work out the box.
is your belt tight ? i got fooled with my old Uplander. opps. 😐
My cousin went through the same thing on his truck. He bought 3 alternators from autozone and all 3 were junk. He doesn't buy from autozone anymore. I went through the same thing with starters from autozone. Junk right out of the box.
Typical overseas parts with no quality control, nothing lasts anymore
I’ve heard very similar stories about alternators 6 other times.
Happened to us too, AutoZone alternators. Now I believe my husband. Sorry honey. You were right.
I'm a retired OEM Automotive Engineer with 42 years of experience (BSME, MSME). On my car, I had the caliper stick on my front left disc brake like in this video. On both sides, I put on brand new OEM rotors and pads which were from Bosch. I put brand new OEM calipers on with new banjo bolts and copper gaskets. I inspected the original brake lines carefully and they were fine, I then bled the complete system and put in all new fluid. After that my car with 80K miles is like new. I NEVER use remanufactured or off brand parts! I have had nothing but headaches with these. These parts and service are inexpensive and a good insurance policy for safety. I like that you didn't take shortcuts and were concerned with your customer's safety. It was a good video and explanation - thank you!
" Now it turns just fine." While using a pry bar to turn the hub. Lol
Right?! I don't know about this guy...
Ya he over tighten the crap out of the new hub bearing. Guaranteed he didn't torque anything just zap it with impact.
Sold customer bunch un needed repairs and parts.
Over a bad bearing.
One of my friends had a similar issue / noise in the rear of his Chrysler. His dad worked on it once before giving the car to his son, my buddy who again did the brakes but had the one rear wheel wear the brake pads prematurely. The issue was the flex line which looked OK on the outside. He replaced it and resolved the issue. We cut the old line in half and it was collapsing internally, acting like a check valve and keeping the brake engaged after your foot left the pedal.
Cool way to check for a collapsed line....
Raise vehicle, either both front, or both rear, or all 4...
Apply brake, hold for 30 seconds, engine off.
Get out and try to spin each airborne wheel. ... the one that takes a lot of effort to spin has a collapsed line, if not a sticky caliper.
@@williamvaughn2938 Good advice thanks. It's a rare event, both Tim and myself have worked on cars for 40 years and this was the one and only time we encountered a collapsed line.
@Kevin C Yup, my first one, after the thousands I've worked on, was quite a shocker too! So, I developed a way to never be so shell shocked again, and even check new customers, before and after, brake repairs.
@@kevinc1851 had this happen on my 95 Acura legend. Fixed driver side brake line and within 300 miles the passenger side did the exact same thing. They looked good on the outside but wouldn't let a single drop of fluid through them.
That same thing happened to me over and over on a Toyota van. Bad supply chain issues? Overheating brake fluid? (Due to seized caliper pistons) Which came first?
Two bad calipers…that’s a long shot, but it can happen. I’d pick another brand, most calipers are remanufactured, so there’s a good chance the rebuilder doesn’t know what he’s doing…he’s certainly not testing anything before he packages them up. Great video!! Great advice!!
So it turns out I was the second shop in a month to return them, they were put back in inventory by mistake. I probably should’ve played the lottery that day LOL.
@@AutoRepairTips757 powerball may top 600 million. Go play
I try to avoid tires and parts made in CHINA
@@romcallis pretty much no longer possible.
@@AutoRepairTips757 they were already installed on another vehicle, attempted bleed, cleaned and returned and put back on the shelf? The instant I opened the box and saw fluid, brake dust or grease, I'd be ordering another pair.
I love how you shared the sound and walk us through it.
thanks
I love you 😐
What about a horrible wobble in a 2013 grand caravan?
@@jrwizztighten the wheel nuts 😂
Calipers were definitely knackered and you might as well fit new rotors anyway in case one was warped, you can’t put a price on safety, good job 👍
I haven't even finished watching the video, but, I wanted to say thank you for lowering the volume during the use of the impact gun.
Shops would recommend replacing the calipers first. But as a DIYer, I would grease up all the caliper pins or sliders first. Most often in my experience with family and friends vehicle the latter is just the culprit.
My auto teacher only had to replace one caliper during his 13 years at bmw, this isn't including other shops he worked at. I've only replaced a couple that actually needed calipers. And it's always cause of mistreated calipers.
95% of calipers I saw sold were basically scams, even from shops I worked at.
Can you grease without dissembling the brakes?
@@Primer9 You would need to remove the calipers in able for you to access the caliper sliding pins. In the common cars that I saw there was no need to remove the caliper bracket.
@@davidstreling3690 That's one way that you can do it too or be more efficient and remove the two pins at the same time, clean the the bolts at the same time, the grease both pins at the same time. Minimizing fumbling for wrench, cleaning, greasing and attaching one at a time. Either one is going to work.
I just fixed my friends brakes about 10 minutes ago. Had to relube the guide pins, make sure it was shimmed right and now the brakes are no longer stuck
At the time when the original brake job was done they might have refused to replace the rotors and hardware the first mechanic probably recommended. That happens to me sometimes where a customer does not have the funds to repair there vehicle properly until noise or vibration causes them to realize there mistake. A lot depends on the customer and in your case the customer learned a lesson. Thank you. Great video.
I just had a customer come in with a starter that had oil leaking on it and it shorted the starter. All he could afford at this time was a starter. If happens a lot
Nonsense, yes funds is an issue with some.
If he was any decent mechanic he'd have skimmed the discs saving them a few hundred, I'd always replace the pads as for the calliper he ripped them off. At least bandits and highway robbers used to wear a mask when they robbed you
Man , I was hearing this squealing squeaking from the front end and thinking it was the brakes , I took it in for repair.
But it wasn't my brakes , it was the guide bearing on my front CV axle of my Honda pilot....👍👍👍
Thanks to Quality Brakes in Cleburne Tx for figuring it out...!
My cars been making the same noise. So in your case did they end up just replacing the whole cv axle ?
@@buddahkz9980
Yes , they replaced the CV axle and bearing because it is one piece or it comes together...
It cost me $200 which was less than what the brake job was going to cost me...😁
Avoid this mechanic lol 😂
Oh my god!
I was sure it was the bearing until i watched your video. It’s the same exact sound! So I have a caliper issue, which is cheaper and easier in my opinion. Thank you!
Been working in my cars for over 27yrs and I’ve never ever heard that u shud change ur brake lines while doing a brake job. I’m Not claiming to know everything, but that sounds a bit ridiculous. New rotors with the pads…absolutely agree. They’re too cheap to not replace when ur doing the job, but new brake lines? Rarely a need to change the line. Sounds like padding the bill to me.
this was not a diagnose and repair video, but more on the lines of what to look for.when i diagnosed this vehicle the calipers did not move freely, so i went through the brake system and check it over to make sure i didn't miss anything. my family has been in automotive for 86 years at the same location, ive been there 44 years. and over the years i have learned to make sure you check everything. when i looked at the brake fluid it was BLACK and 99.99% of the the time thats from the rubber brake lines coming apart on the inside. so if you put new calipers on your just masking the PROBLEM, because the contaminated fluid will ruin the new calipers and the wont let them open and close correctly. and we have been in one location that long because we treat people with honesty. not by padding the bill.
There can be situations where the hoses get so old the inner lining of the hose can start to break down and a flap of rubber can block it off.. doesn't happen very often and IDK if this is the case here
Old rubber brake lines will swell and let the brake fluid go into the caliper, but not come back out. Old brake lines are bad juju. Better safe than sorry. They only cost a couple bucks.
Replacing brakelines is hella common
that’s quite an embellishment sir. “Hella common”? Come on.
I’ll be 45 next week…owned 11 cars (in the Chicagoland - Midwest salt and rust area my entire life) and had to have a brake line changed ONCE on a 2001 Mercedes ML320 (which I loved that car). It may not be rare, but it sure as hell isn’t “hella common”.
I’m betting it didn’t really need 2 new sets of calipers, rotors and brake lines, in fact I’m sure that was overkill.
Better safe than sorry
Yeah i dont have moneynto just replace things for the heck of it.
@@jrwizz did you see those tires.? That’s how I eye up a whale right before I bend them other..
But all jokes aside, I’m pretty sure he ask permission before hand. & like the other dude said, better safe then sorry.
This is why mechanics get such a bad rap for gouging and scamming customers. For all we know all he needed was to clean and restore the caliper pins, boots, bolts and repacked them with silicone paste. Did not need new rotors and pads again either.
You shouldn't need a long screwdriver to turn wheel. It should spin free plus the drag if it's 4wd
This is 3 years ago and people still complaining. That means this guy the did the job to good 😄😄
@@eimantasminkstimas7056 the funny thing was this wasn’t even how to video I had already done all the diagnostics. I was just telling people if you’re going to fix something make sure you know what you’re doing. A lot of people took this video completely wrong.
@@AutoRepairTips757 Always does and always will 😉
I can appreciate the fact that some people may opt for aftermarket versus OEM parts. Times are tough for most Americans. The cost of pretty much everything has sky rocketed. That said, how much value do you place on your/family life or others out on the road. Some things on a car you may get away with aftermarket parts. However, when it comes to safety, NEVER a wise choice to go with aftermarket/cheap parts. This decision may not only cost you more in the long run due to poor quality/durability but most importantly it can cost someone their life. Think it through before you make that choice folks.
Well said
Bro this exactly what happened to me the other day smh 🤦🏾♂️ these dudes did a whole different job
My experience with two new “bad” calipers is they’ve been installed on the wrong side. Most vehicles can have a caliper installed on either side but the bleeder MUST be mounted at the top. You’ll never get the air out of the system trying to bleed a caliper from underneath though I’ve seen many techs try.
Maybe with vacuum or vacuum /pressure combo bleeding you could possibly, but that would be idiotic to install them improperly that way regardless.
@@connor3288 you'd still never get that air bubble out with a pressure or vacuum bleeder unless you turn the car upside down. Air will always rise. That's why bleeders are always up top. If put on backwards then the bleeder screw would just be a drain plug.
And he didn't say what the issue is. "Just replace it all on both sides". Just replace the engine too
@@Melicoy He probably had the reasons clear in his head, just wasn’t eloquent with the camera rolling. 😅
Let’s say he saw enough evidence to know it is a seizing caliper - so that old caliper is bad.
And yes, calipers are replaced in left/right pairs.
Rotor - the previous brake job was a pad slap. Rotors weren’t surfaced nor changed. Caliper sticking mean pad overhearing. So pads need replaced this time again - and again in left/right pairs.
Rotors: since previous time wasn’t done properly, so he’s replacing them both. Again, left right pair.
Brake hose -> this is the ONLY component where I have my reservations. Granted, he tried to record that footage using another hand held GoPro. He just didn’t edit-in that part during post-production. So fine, I can take his words for it, that the hoses are old, brittle, etc.
That said, you’re totally right: the audience who are not skilled in evaluating these things, are exactly the target audience wishing to learn something from the video. So a more eloquent observation->diagnosis would have being super helpful.
]]p p
Inspect the caliper glide pins for easy movement before "everything" is replaced.
Bit he couldn't bump up his prices for ramp time charges and labour if he done the easy work rather than charge them for every possible thing he could dream up.
The what about the kids sh*t shows the type of mechanic he is
Absolutely! Brake lines collapse when they get old!
How old until a brake line 'collapses'? 10 years, 20 years? I've witnessed some very old vehicles perform just fine without blowing hundreds.. But i guess if you're willing to part with money so easily then you deserve to part with it.🤷
Finding someone who knows what they are doing is easily said than done.
Even though replacing a bunch of parts can be pricey especially if someone is on a fixed income. However, being safe is what matters. No one wants to be driving and the dang on car won't stop. Yikes!! Great video!!! 💖💖
a very well matured straight to the point video. Thank you Sir.
You’re the pro.. but seriously dude, replace rotor, pads, calipers, and brake lines 😂 seems far out
rotors are done in pairs, so are calipers. and brake lines were hard and cracked. ive seen people try to do just one side and well it just dont work. plus he had someone already try to fix it and you saw what happened he had to spend money twice.
@@AutoRepairTips757 If they were designed to be replaced in pairs it seems they would be sold in pairs. Like the pads are sold in sets.
@@timslawnmaintenance Shop needs to make money LoL
More like you are just like the majority of "professional shops", soaking customers for every penny you can.
@@timslawnmaintenance wheel bearings aren’t sold in pairs yet are designed to replaced in pairs , same with shocks , and many other components.
I just had 2 reputable auto shops try to rip me off😐 long story short steering is fixed but 2nd shop burned up my wheel bearings 🤷♂️ i ordered Timken and will replace them myself 👍 BEWARE OF CROOKS!!!!!
I believe you hosed who ever own that truck. Who replace all that for a simple job? Wow
Agreed!!
Ditto
Why risk it? You saw one brake caliper sticking. At highway speeds the last thing you want is brake failure. Specially with a bunch of morons texting and driving.
Could have been just the brake caliper slliders needed cleaning up and regreased, most times this causes binding of the brakes
Yup and a typical thing for backyard (i saw it done on youtube) "mechanics" to skip. I've had to deal with this more times that I can remember after pad slaps followed by the above issue which was solved by cleaning and re-greasing the sliders.
@Derek and major: I was laughing so much out of happiness, when I did that to my GNC blaser, after I replace the brake pads and the noise keep going... **Didn't find out where the noise was coming from, I had a bit of red grease in my tool box, put the bolts of the sliders back in, when I noticed they were too dry, just thought: Baah, Fuq it, Bit of this shit, At list this shit may work better...** Start going on the street,
WA - madafaking - LLA...
🤣 Laughing began for about 20 mins.
Mechanics just tell to replace parts for high commxx
Lol.. went immediately for the brake lines lol
Are u fkn serious um wake TF up if rotor isn't fkn warped there will be no fk noise jfc n ya sure it's sticking I mean what else caused the warp in the rotor fkn morons
The following is for all the "experts" on here ragging on this guy. First, he absolutely explained why it wasn't a wheel bearing. He checked each tire for side to side and up and down play. Which is how you check for a bad wheel bearing. Second, he explained that the brake lines were corroded, therefore most likely not moving brake fluid like they should causing uneven wear to the pads and rotor. Third, he explained that on vehicles, it's best to replace things in pairs, which is absolutely correct even though it sucks. Piecing together break systems costs in the long run. Wheel bearings and break systems are complete necessities on a vehicle, and failure from either can have some seriously bad results. So he's not lying when he says it's serious. I will agree that there are a lot of mechanics out there that are hacks who overcharge. The ones that are good, however, deserve to make a good living for their skill, knowledge, experience, and hard work. Most peoples lives depend heavily on their vehicles so yall should really think twice before slandering someone. My .02 take it or leave it.
Thanks for the comment. I really appreciate it. It’s funny how so many people got upset over this video. Again thank you.
Yep and if the brake hoses are needing to be replaced, might as well change the calipers, rotors and pads.
The bad side destroyed the rotor and well you have to then replace pads to avoid uneven wear snd less braking power, cheap to replace those anyways.
Unless the line is leaking, or brake piston seized (both of which can be checked, piston can be rebuilt), it's just the pins.
Both sides don't need to be done at the same time. Run up the bill, parts canon, on full display.
This guy is what true mechanics call a part thrower he just throw a new part at it you didn't even tell you what the hell the real problem was
Rotors and pads had to be replaced no matter what. Calipers were probably original and worn out, and the brake hoses being original too should also be replaced.
This is something that should be done because you don't want to put on new hardware and something else goes wrong because basically the hoses and calipers are junk when they get old.
Also if you replace calipers, check to see how old those hoses are, if you're not sure just replace them. I had a shop replace everything because the hardlines rusted out and they didn't replace the rubber lines.
So now i gotta replace everything again because aftermarket calipers bleeder screws seize up forcing you to buy new calipers. For now i have extra pads i toss on until i scrape the money to replace everything and ill have to find out what i need to do to get the bleeders to work all the time with the new calipers.
Thanks for the video as I just started having a similar sounding issue on my '05 yukon, but havent had a chance to look at it yet.
All the feel is in the pedal to , it feels like rock hard the piston in callipers is reversed and so there's mil or two for a piston to lock up , before wear on pads cause U don't need to complete a calliper failing until the noise or feel in pedal is done reversed , remember the pounds on these from tools can give it but then they mite shred so reverse the strip on threads I did two cars and one more than the other has issues before , tnx your video makes sense
Had a caliper bind up because of a clogged brake line. It wouldn't allow the pressure to release.
over the years it seems like a catch 22. I work on my vehicles for most All repairs... When ya go to a shop and TELL them whats wrong the mechanic replaced just that and sends you on your merry way... take it in and ask whats wrong with it...the answer is always..wellll. ya need this, that and of course that and ...and... A rare mechanic tells ya whats wrong and offers realistic solutions...
When I made this video it was not a how to video, I have a lot of those on my channel. This video was more of what other things that can cause a noise. I already diagnosed it I just don’t show it. One of the main problems was the brake lines the rubber part came apart on the inside and they wouldn’t let the brake calipers work correctly causing them to lock up the rotor in a meeting grinding sound
Sounds like a real mechanic wants to change everything at the same time. That's crazy!
A real mechanic finds the problem, then replaces the necessary parts, he doesn't just dump a bunch of parts and never figured out what was the source of the problem.
@@ricgomez1 nowadays seems like all mechanics just want to replace everything l
@@jrendoso you should find another mechanic
@@ricgomez1 you should be the mechanic
i was having cluking coming out of my front end and i checked every thing out all my bushings ball joints shit like that were fine what i found is that the sub frame connecting bolt head snapped off. i started searching challenger web sights and found alot of people having this issue. behind the tire theres a peice of tape like substance glued over a body access hole that tape falls off and moisture gets in, travels down the bolt and rots the bolt as well as sub frame from inside. its not just challengers also chargers magnums on lady even said her van had this problem. if your sub frame is rotting the thru bolt has two sets of threads on them the bolt is like 8 inches long and near the head of bolt are threads that are supposed to thread to sub frame. now with head snapped off i was working on ways to get that bolt out cause dodge will tell you you need a new subframe (engine cradle) cause threads are stripped. or they wont tell you and change bolt that might last a while but without those bottom threads,the bolt is helpless. in this video i can see the bolt on the side hes working on but could be the other side. on my car its the passenger side thats bad but when im driving it sounds like the drivers side. so im working on three different ways of fixing this problem without changing sub frame dodge will charge u thousands.a new cradle five fifty to seven hundred dollars. n then u better hope u got the right one. the first thing i will do is try to drill a hole in the bolt ane use a e-z out type bolt remover also lubercate the top of bolt thru the window behind wheel. if that dont work i will see if theres a reverse tap and bolt that i can tap in and since its reverse as i tighten tapped bolt it should loosen frame bolt. next i will cut the window open to get to nut which has a locking washer on it (not a lock washer) i had to stick my camera in the hand hole n take photos to see in there. now if the threads on the bottom are stripped i will try to weld the washer that comes with the bolt on to the bolt then weld the washer to the body after in stalling it. i might just skip all that and weld the sub frame to the frame. but that bolt will still be in there dangling around. i dont think it will make much noise if the frame is not bouncing around. if anybody is having this problem contact the national highway traffic safety administration 1-888-327-4236 they are in charge of recalls. most times you have to change the engine cradle due to accidents and they got bent. most likely this is what caused your accident.
Great write up. Thank you for sharing it amazes me how much automotive issues are hidden. An yes you do need to beware. All we have is each other's shared experience because the manufacturing industry is a joke.
I searched and searched for good info on my wheel lug nuts. There was conflicting information on size of socket to use first for the actual spindle nut then the lug nuts because it seemed mechanics had been careless using a bigger socket because lug nut became distorted. There was info talking about 2 different sizes for front and back which led me to beleive it should have went into haynes auto repair book. Cone to find out what I thought was a stripped bolt lug nut was a manufacturing idiotic thing for looks. The top part of lug nut is just a cap the mid lip if for hub cap to stay on keeping you with that lug nut but underneath that cap of lug nut they put an aluminum sheeth which after time becomes distorted slides out of place indicating a larger socket size which rounds of the 6 pt sides making proper socket size appear to small.
So lug nuts ho back n forth while still tight feeling all the whi l e loose.
Thank you Craigg at oreileys who took the time to explain the mystery of the different info people tell each other instead of dodge being real about it. That's awesome. WE can share but put them on blast at same time
Were you able to fix the problem?
Just do what needs doing, discs that are still thick enough and not warped leave on. I tend to swap fronts every couple of sets of pads though. Only bin calipers if they have an issue. Old brake hoses replacment makes sense.
I’m a mechanic myself and when you talk about replacing everything as a unit, that’s not necessary! Unless there are some major and I mean major issues. Brake lines only need to be replaced if they are severely damaged and torn up. If they are arrested like you mentioned then yes, I would make a recommendation to have those changed. When it comes to the calipers, a thorough inspection of the calipers is needed. You should have to change your brakes 3 or maybe 4 times before your calipers need to be replaced. Otherwise, if you’re replacing everything at once, you are charging the customer more than what they should actually be paying and that would make me skeptical on coming to see you as a mechanic.
Why the problem? Could be a bad ABS box. When those things go bad, they do some weird stuff. Like making a single wheel lock up or "stick" the brake on like a bad/seized caliper.
One of my wheels was doing that, like seizing or trying to, turned out to be the flex brake hose by the wheel had deteriorated and made a sort of check valve inside, w a flap closing not letting the fluid back out, so that the piston could release properly. Was a battle figuring that out. Hose looked fine but wasn't.
Same issue with a clutch flexible line on my old Land Rover! Same frustration too!!
You dug deeper and found the real cause, 50 bucks. He didn’t really find the problem, just solved by replacing everything both sides, 1000 bucks.
My trans am did that
Imagine changing rotors and calipers every time you need to change pads lmao this is not solid financial advice
If you want to spend the extra money thats fine , but so ofter the slide grooves for the pads are too tight and you just need to slightly machine the ears on the pads with a grinder and it frees them up. The problem is that they tighten on the rotors with use and then won’t release is all. Does not hurt to try that first and save hundreds. Don’t be guilted into the extra expense. Be safe , but do your thing and don’t over grind. It’s a pad manufacture problem.
This happens all the time with caliper boots.
The tolerances are so tight that any dirt and rust will not allow the pad to actuate and lead to pad noise.
You are actually far better off taking a file to the boot channels where you place the clips.
Clean those channels up and you should have no issues.
Also, that noise was the wheel bearing not the pads on the caliper.
I don't know why he didn't explain this, but you can clearly see that he also replaced the wheel bearings.
Zero rust on those wheel hubs in the after shot.
@@joeldoxtator9804 exactly what I was gonna say
HEAR HEAR!!! Make sure your mechanic knows what they're doing!!
Same. Just changed the pads on my Grand Marquis, and now I have a vibration and noise up front. The vibration is up past 50mph, and the noise is "crunching" when I come to a complete stop. One side was metal on metal, so I had to quickly fix them, but I'll look at my calipers instead of throwing a bearing at it.
If the pads had worn down to the metal, you definitely need to replace the discs (rotors) as well, otherwise you are just destroying a new set of pads, and you'll never have properly functioning brakes. The simple rule should be, inspect condition and check operation of all the components, and take whatever action is necessary before reassembly.
I really doubt it was both calipers. Easy to to throw the parts cannon at something when you are making money off the parts and the labor. No need to replace the calipers when doing brakes and the rotors it just depends. I have never had to replace a caliper but have had to replace a slide pin where the boot failed and it was seized. I do know calipers can get stuck but they are pretty reliable.
That’s because these are parts being made are from china. And they’re junk trash. I just replaced my control arm with aftermarket one and it’s bad already a year later. This isn’t the first time I’ve had aftermarket parts fail on me over and over back to back. Same thing happend on my moms Bmw. Aftermarket control arms went bad a few months later again. Same thing with plastic expansion tanks , fuel pumps, alternators etc.
I got a 02' Blazer ZR2 & had bearing noise. 3 shops told me it was a wheel bearing.
I changed wheel bearing Hubs on front & Rear.
Turns out, it's the Pinion bearing. Everything is tight, no play in the yoke, no leaks but it screams like a wheel bearing! It's my Outer Bearing closest to the Yoke.
A good way to check that is with a thermal imager. They’re pretty inexpensive on Amazon and drive it and then see where the hotspots are. That will tell you if it’s a wheel bearing or not.
I always replace the slide pins and associated hardware when I do brakes. Only adds about 20 bucks to the parts bill. Learned the hard way when I had one size so tightly, I had to replace the caliper bracket.
But he just told you to replace that every time as well.
I would hate to take my vehicle to this guy. You'll be spending what you don't have for what you don't need.
Nah, that is so obviously not a hub bearing problem. The bad hub bearing noise is more of a whirring or howling that happens at around 30-50mph. You cannot hear it from outside the car, but inside you will both hear and feel it. Outside, at 45mph the normal tire/engine/general car sounds will mask the bad bearing noise. Then you confirm it by testing for play in the wheel while jacked, like in this video. Unless the bearing is super messed up, then there'll be metal on metal grinding at any speed. But total failure is not required to need a new hub bearing. You can also hear the sound by spinning it while the car is jacked, because the other noises won't mask it.
The people who make this mistake have never heard what a bad hub bearing sounds like. Once you've heard it, you won't forget it. I didn't know what the sound was at the beginning of this video, but I could tell it was not hub bearing.
Thank you
I agree with yoi except for you can hear from the outside of the car. Many conditions when I was outside and traffic Roll by and I can hear their wheel bearings
Thank you for the information, you just broke it down of what I'm experiencing with my vehicle at the moment. Will be fixing it myself very soon 😌
My wheel bearings are making loud noises while going 30-45 mph. Nissan Sentra on right side only. It does a humming noise. Very feint and when I drive by a wall it gets louder because of the echo. Going to change it this weekend
@@Tslee45 did that fix it?
Buying a new caliber for just that is insane
When you have brake lines that are cracked and hard and a caliper that is sticking so bad that it heated up the brake pads to a point they need to be replaced , I think that’s pretty much a no-brainer. When you work on customers cars we can’t rig things up and do things halfway that can cause a potential problems down the road that puts us liable. I’ve been doing this over 42 years I’m not just a person who changes parts I diagnose the problem and Repair what needs to be fixed.
@@AutoRepairTips757 I had a car that the whole caliper ended up popping off and completely locking the wheel up on me.
@@AutoRepairTips757 a new caliper costs an arm and leg, there are rebuild kits that come with new rubber boots and even pistons too. they are a lot cheaper, and it will bring a caliper back to mew condition
@@AutoRepairTips757 how did you know the brand new calipers were bad?
@@AutoRepairTips757 i happen to changed the calipers too, bleed them and i still got a spongy pedal, any reason why is this happening?
“It’s old and rusted and very hard.” My urologist says the same thing.
😂
Thanks so much for this video. Wish I could find a mechanic like you! Straight to the point and fix it w/o messing up something else!
Thanks
Hope you have deep pockets. 2 bad calipers from auto parts store?
Omg 😂 he just replaced everything. Anybody could do that! Where was the noise coming from? It definitely wasn't a brake line 😂 Geesh 🤦🏿♀️
Or hardware via shims or pins! Also a lot of new technicians don't clean the saddle when replacing pads! I've even heard them say "job security man!" Yea how incompetent these younger techs/mechanics are becoming is kinda scary! I have also heard it from my manager's to do that for the same ignorant excuse.
Replace calipers, rotors and lines whenever you replace pads?! Not my experience. Depending on type of driving, e.g. city vs. highway, Assuming the job is done correctly, you should be able to replace pads 2-3 times before replacing rotors. Calipers should last 200k miles. I wouldn't change them unless a specific issue is diagnosed. Lines the same. If you're in an area with lots of road salt and they;re heavily rusted, sure, they should be replaced proactively, but every time you replace pads? No way.
Not sure why in the video i said replace calp and rotors every time you replace pads. but i did say the lines were rusty and the rubber was hard. one thing i didn't mention was the fluid was black and that means the lies are starting to come apart on the inside and that will cause a calp to lock up. this video was about not every noise you hear is a wheel bearing, thanks for your comment
I am watching from Bangladesh so nice video
Thanks and welcome
You say to make sure who ever works on your car knows what they're doing. But if the car owner doesn't know any better themselves how can they tell who is good and who is bad until after the work is done? Asking friends for recommendation can help but sometimes you need someone right away and the people suggested are booked up.
Would have at least turned the rotors with the new pads.
Everything else was overkill.
There is absolutely no reason to turn the rotors. If you haven't been running metal on metal it is a waste of time and money.
First wrong thing I noticed: RH front wheel has been 'counterweighted' with multiple wheel weights at different positions. Sooo many fitters are trained by unprofessional fools!
Ya no this is what we call a hack… just throw a bunch of parts at it and hopefully it fixes it.. what was wrong exactly… “idk” 🤦🏼♂️
Yup! And the problem probably was the bearing, not the brakes. I've never heard brakes make that noise but I have heard a Chevy pickup that sounded just like that when the bearing failed. Either way he replaced the hub/bearing assembly so either it was the actual problem or he just wanted to milk the guy for more wasted money. Being that he didn't mention having replaced it he apparently didn't want us to know. He said the brake lines were rusted, they're rubber. And I'd love to know what he meant by "the calipers wouldn't bleed", judging by everything else I saw and heard it was probably an installer malfunction.
LoL get used to it. That's 99% of auto repairs
Hahaha until someone’s has the balls to actually fix the cars the cars they buy and get a warrant of fitness
Love this dudes accent thanks for the info makes me feel better considering I can now check what’s going on with my front end
And i swear I still heard a squeak when he turned the wheel with that pry bar 🤣
I'm wondering if fouled fluid in the system caused that next set of calipers to seize.
Always make sure that you’re dealing with someone that knows what they’re doing. If you lose your house, and you and your wife and kids have to live in a cardboard box for the rest of your life because you gave all your money to a mechanic, it’s worth it!
If you think everytime a customer comes in to do a simple brake pad job that you’re going to change everything that’s ridiculous. If there’s an issue, sure you would address it, but to say change everything all at once everytime that’s just a waste of time and money.
Oh btw, I do this for a living and work on my own vehicles. Never had an issue. Good vid though!
Didn't sound like a bearing at all
They should make a rule/law so that mechanics can’t put a margin on parts. If he just replaces the whole brake he can have the car done in an hour, so charging you for 1 hour labour but also whatever he’s charging on top of the cost price of the parts. If he wasn’t allowed to add to the cost of the part, and why should he when he didn’t do anything for that money, then he would take the time to properly diagnose the problem and only replace the parts that actually need replacing. So currently he is incentivised to get through as many cars as he can in a day while replacing as many parts as he can.
Thank you. Your bill is probably not going to be conducive for low income families. The previous mechanic probably changed just the brake pad for just side or one wheel, making the brake fluid in the brake liner press harder on this wheel, as it has a new brake pad, or like you said, the part he installed was sub-optimal quality. In today's economy, everyone is trying to save as such as safely possible on auto repairs.
This brake was not going to fail. As the bleeding was done correctly before you drove this car, that's why you reached into your garage safely 💕🎁👀☕. 💯🤭😆
I have experienced noise on the driver's side of my van after having my front breaks worked on . Need to go back to the garage or use a different one .
My man said when you get the breaks done you have to replace the engine just to make sure everything is OK. 🤣🤣🤣
lol
feel like this is me exactly.... oh well lesson learned.... thanks for the video
Can I ask, the rust on the car hub is it that bad ? and can you just remove it and will it be fine ?
That's completely normal. Not much you can do for that
Exactly what in hearing on my 05 pilot
All that heat you should definitely replace your wheel bearing.. You can't put a price on safety. think about the children!!😱
Sure a mechanic would recomend changing the whole braking system. Why not change the whole car then since they might already pay around 10% of the vehicles value on brake work
In a situ like this, ask the customer how long they want to keep the car for. If they wanna run it for the next 10 years. Go ahead and encourage them to replace all the stuff you listed.
He got a good pay day didn't he...
Sounds exactly like mine
The reason the calipers would not bleed; the bleeders were facing down because the right caliper was installed on the left and versa
Negative
I'll pick a new auto parts store especially if you're working on any vehicle that anybody goes in we're all blessed 🕊️🕊️🕊️
Pretty sure the squeeky mouse noise is a wheel bearing. You could hear it after you changed everything out and the rotor turned that little bit it did, it squeeked.😮
Turned out it was a mouse all along 😊
I've gotten bad calipers bad Master cylinders and bad starters from Advanced Auto. Is that who you purchased your calipers through?
Advance auto parts
I see why he replaced the calipers pads rotors and lines and he flush the system. Looking at some of the comments I’m not even gonna fall into this because I understand it because I do it every single day and with the comments that I’m seeing these people don’t do it every day they’re just looking for a quick fix to get down the road and a lot of them. Don’t know what they’re talking about, a lot of them are parts changers some of them aren’t some of them know what they’re talking about sound of them don’t and I should say a lot of them don’t know what they’re talking about this man protecting himself. He runs a business because the job has been screwed up he gets into it. He’s got a find more stuff wrong with it, this replace everything be done with it you don’t have to worry about it and you’re not putting somebody’s life at danger because all you ground a pads down your machine the rotor now it’s under caught now after the rotor it gets hot you got a hey vibration in the brakes pulsating if you put a dial indicator on it which a lot of people don’t know what that is you got 10,000 to run out and you torque the Lugnuts
My break fluid keeps squirreling third time this month I’ve had to put #dot3 in. There’s wet spots everywhere. If you live up in the #saltbelt, and your truck is twenty years or older. And your too broke to afford to keep it garage kept. Then you know know if you can’t afford to pay for #diesel #f250 I hear a rumble. Kinda similar to a caliper rubbing the rims. Which eventually turns to having to replace rotors, calipers, studs, lugs and lugnut’s, replacing the rims and ultimately the tires. To a couple of months no noises. To a rumble but not as loud. But cant hear it when I am #speeding to when i brake I pull to the passenger side of the road where I can almost make a turn in my short bed super cab and make a right turn handsfree. 😮 to rear passenger #4x4 have groves but also noticeably groves that go up and down, and also heat groves going around the disk. And the front drivers side have diagonal grinding marks bigger then the width of the pre drilled out rotors. To a none stop squeaky sounds in slower speeds but also while turning. Also real passenger side has the brake pads un-even wear differences between the outer most pad and also the inner pad. I don’t really drive a lot. #mile consumption’s fifteen #thousand range. Only had #two oil changes this year. Had red calipers but had to drop down to basic parts. Long story never worked on a truck before. My friend gets annoyed at me sometimes. But learned a lot since buying it from a dealer for at least five or six under market value. Had to get expanded steel on top of inch thick steel grates. And carpet rugs from local businesses entrances. Soon going to remove the bed after this appointment tomorrow with the professionals 😅it probably cost me what actual market valuation is. But you know what? This is my first diesel engine truck. The #saltbelt #rust #f250 #self taught welding. #eyeprotection wont work. You need like bubble thats air tight. Because you can wear a Arborist mask, safety glasses or goggles, or whatever your going to end up getting rust in your #eyes. One brake line feels like no fluid in it. The other feels like there is some fluid but completely different pressure feel in the rear. Hubs and #axleshaftseals in the front passenger side appears to sitting higher off central to where it should be. And in the rear passenger side but the actual shocks sits normal however the rear drivers side sitting crooked. The front passenger lower tie rod appears bent. All the different coupler seals most of them bad. I am guessing only replacing what I could afford to do personally was a bad decision on my part. At least the dealer did all the stuff that my truck is known to have issues with. To probably needing everywhere else except for the rear differential but the rear #driveshaft is leaking, the front passenger caliper got fresh brake fluid. Ik i spilled some oil on my second time of doing a #diesel by myself. How it’s leaking from some little round flat circle some aluminum cast part that sits close to the #60 but its a slow leak not to the point I am leaving oil spills on the pavement. But if as bad as the suspension is looking. Starting to worry 😮what else will the mechanics fine. I mean my #obs2 thing doesn’t work. Well local car parts store couldn’t read it. I am told that the other way thru the odometer mode doesn’t mean anything. 😠 would it make more sense to go ahead do re-do the level kit and also raise it three points, and the #uppertierod #lowertierod #swaybarlinks #balljoints, the sleeves, #brakeassembly #hubs #bearings #brakelines #rotors #brakes #dustcover #bushings #controlarms #shocks #pitman #idler #knuckles #dampners #torsonbar #radius #powersteeringpully #abs #censors #tuneup #alignment #headlights #manifold #gaskets #newhardwhere #leafsprings #idlertensionpully #lockinghub btw why does #2004 have weird looking permanent hubs vs the one in the front that are get out of your truck and lock them in or out? How much you think it cost do you think they get it done this week? I guess in a few hours we find out….🫤
LOL, sure, when it is other people's money. Then money is no object, replace everything that doesn't look brand new. Thanks for being honest.
...or a single click sound coming from the axle nut itself when coming to a near stop or acceleration from a stop
pretty sure you just pin pointed the problem that’s been driving me insane for the past six months months… thanks🤙🏻
My driver's side front wheel sounds like there's a marble rolling around inside of a hub cap. It only makes the noise when you press on the brakes. What do you think that could be.. It's a 2003 avalanche with a seven inch lift kit
It’s hard to see without looking at it,
Thanks for the video I’ve changed wheel bearing on my 2001 f250 left front still have noise
No problem 👍
I had the play left to right but then my buddy noticed the steering wheel moving. After one of us held the wheel there was no play at all. Could that still be tie rod issues or did the steering just not lock? Maybe also to note just one tire was off the ground.
I have a 2012 Ford Escape every six months I replace brake pads,brake hose,caliper,rotors, and wheel hub on both side but now my passenger side has a grinding and roaring noise when I drive the car down the road
Every six months you have to replace the entire system.?
Thanks Pete good video 👍🏻
Cars should be replaced in pairs.
Yes they should.
No one ever replaces the Calipers and the Lines unless they are ruined, I mean ya Rotors and Pads.
How did this narrow down or save us from a mistake??? Replacing everything is hardly a realistic answer to “there’s a slight noise”….
Seems pretty easy to con people with car repairs.
Funny how it left with a new wheel bearing too and still looked stiff 😄
Somebody didn't watch the video... Didn't say anything about replacement of wheel bearing . but does seem tight with that big ass screw driver .