Milling Curves With a Rotary Table - Hemingway Sensitive Knurling Tool Build - Part 3
Vložit
- čas přidán 25. 06. 2024
- Support Clough42 on Patreon! / clough42
Today we're continuing work on the Hemingway Sensitive Knurler kit. I've had my eye on this knurling tool ever since I first got my lathe, and now I'm finally building it. This is one of the classic British toolmaking kits, and building from someone else's design will be a new experience for me. Today is all about the rotary table. We'll be setting up and cutting all of the curved edges on all of the flat bar parts for the knurling tool.
Full Hemingway Sensitive Knurling Tool build playlist: • Hemingway Sensitive Kn...
This is the kit I purchased: www.hemingwaykits.com/HK1115
Tools used in this video:
*This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated
Vertex 10" Rotary Table (Amazon*): amzn.to/3WULRox
Bondhus Metric Hex Key Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/3eqZzwb
Bondhus SAE Hex Key Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/3h9bJLZ
Astro Pneumatic Air Blower Nozzle (Amazon*): amzn.to/3oB5uE9
Shars .0005" dial test indicator (Amazon*): amzn.to/3lo3Stq
Edge Technology Clamp Indicator Holder (Amazon*): amzn.to/3MImlhf
Milwaukee M18 Wet/Dry Vacuum (Amazon*): amzn.to/3oIcSwB
Knipex Pliers Wrench 3-Piece Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/2ruzS8m
Nicholson Swiss Made Needle File Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/3qGOw6q
Raw Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...
00:00 Intro
00:37 Filing the pin retainers
04:03 Setting up the rotary table
05:47 Rounding the side plates
08:33 Rounding the tails of the arms
10:24 Hollowing out the inside radius of the arms
12:56 Cutting the outside radius of the arms
14:48 Rounding the tips of the arms
16:33 Rounding the corners of the side plates
18:27 Trying to destroy the distance piece
21:07 Conclusion
The opening shot had me thinking "oh boy some rotary table action!" then I literally got called out! 😂But seriously your mention means so much. Thank you!
Edit: After watching I especially like your different approach to locating the parts on the RT.The in place fixture with the clamp nose and parallel was very clever. I'll need to remember that one
Thanks! Everything I know I picked up from somewhere and I'm happy to have the opportunity to share it.
@@Clough42 That's how we all learn! Thanks again
@@InheritanceMachining Ummm...7:56...did James call you an amateur...? 😳
This is a good way to start 2023 😅👌🏻
Thanks You that helps a lot. Tim
Thanks James. I am just about to start on my Hemmingway knurler. I was waiting for this episode! I modelled the entire assembly in Inventor so I can work in metric dimensions. Still imperial sized parts though. Sigh!
You're inching your way to the Imperial side!
Shame the drawings are only in Bananas, it should be in both Metric and bananas.
Enjoyed discussion/demonstration
Looking good. Soon you will be knurling with that tool and all of us viewers will drool over it. I like that word, the roundening reminds me of some of the liberties AVE takes with words. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Nice playlist!!! Thanks a lot for sharing.
Thanks for sharing.
Re: 2:20
I love my Knipex parallel jaw pliers. Among other things I use them to press in tiny roll pins. Such as something you might find all over an obscure thing designed by Eugene Stoner, particularly in the gas block and bolt catch... 😜
NICE WORK,HAPPY new year
No dull beavers were harmed in the making of this video! 🦫🦫🦫🦫
Great use of fixtures. I know lots of people will benefit from you work. This project is coming out awewome.
Couple of drops of WD-40 on the aluminium prevents aluminium sticking on most coatings I've been using. There is little to no smoking as well, I would highly recommend trying it. Great video!
I do the same with aluminum. WD-40 also works fairly well cutting Inconel
These are brilliant.. I made and have used the knurling tool for years and it has never failed to do the job.
Apart from the sensitive drilling machine, this is probably my most used Hemingway tool.
i really enjoy your vids and im a fellow nerd. anybody that gives you grief is an a hole.
Good stuff
Happy New Year James. You're channel has come a long way. Nice work!
TiCN is the coating you want for steel and aluminum at the same time. There is no aluminum in the coating, so it does not gall up, but the carbon adds some extra hardness that keeps it good in steels.
I have Zirconium Nitride coated variable-flute end mills for aluminum, and they work great. When I was shopping for end mills, I wasn't contemplating trying to cut aluminum and steel at the same time. :)
Dear James,
All the best wishes for 2023.
I like seeing that you are approaching 100k mark. I hope you hit it by the end of this month 👍
I realy like your attention to deatail and presentation style. Thank you for doing it for us 👍
Happy New Year James 👍
-fun with the rotary table !!!
I would love to see you do a tutorial on how to use Fusion 360. Your explanations in some of your video of Fusion 360 are very concise and I think you would be a great instructor.
Hear, hear!
;)
He's done some F360 tutorials in the past, most often they're disguised as 3D Printing or electronic leadscrew tutorials 😉
But yes he's done several videos specifically on Fusion 360 over the past several years. Hope this helps, and yes they're quite good videos.
As usual, with great care.
Thanks
Looking good James, that's going to be an awesome tool !
Happy New Year !
There is a reason why things were produced by combining a lot of very simple parts. You really start to appreciate even 3 axis CNC milling when you make such a complicated device manually.
For setting up my rotab I have a plug that's closely fitted to the center counterbore (or the top of the Morse taper socket), and that's turned down to a fit collet at the top. I start with that in the spindle, move things until it's close to the rotab center, then press it into the rotab with the quill feed lever, allowing that action to move the rotab the last few thou. Only then do I clamp the rotab down and zero the DRO. No need to indicate it in. Which is exactly how you locate the parts.
The arms are complex enough that they would be good candidates for your CNC. But I'd wager that more of us have rotabs that CNCs, so the instructional value of your method is appreciated. BTW If you make a fixture plate for the rotab so that you're freed from the limits of six T-slots, you'll really like it. BTW2 What do you have against beavers? (Maybe I'm just sensitive because I'm a native of the beaver state.) Oh, and Happy New Year to all.
Blondiehacks showed the same principle. Much easier than the fancy indicator set-up used here.
Slots for a screwdriver work very well to tighten up a filing jig like that one.
Really nice work! I have this kit and have more or less finished redrawing the drawings! I have to watch this a couple of times to understand your set ups. Thanks!
Those Brandons are pretty smart guys!
Regards your noise: remember that the end mill flutes are trying to lift the part while cutting. While it's steel, you're still getting some flex. The thicker piece obviously flexes less, so less noise and a better cut.
Thanks and Happy Newyear.
Nice work. And a happy new year! Thank you for all the great videos.
Happy New Year to you and your family . Greetings from germany.
Nice details in the way you work
Happy 2023, James! :)
Happy New Year and thanks for all the great videos in 2022! ⭐🙂👍
Have a happy and safe new year James 🎉
Very nice work with some interesting set ups on the rotary table. Thanks for the video. Happy New Year.
great vid. I'm making a similar part on the rotary table tomorrow, and I see a lot of tricks that will help me, Thanks!
happy new year james!
loving the content, as always. im kinda starting a game of sorts in which i try to guess what your next big project is based on the tools you are getting and making. so far the surface grinder and the knurling tool dont make a whole lot of sense together. but i know you are up to something... the game is afoot :P
blessings for you and your family.
Hi nice job. Ever try the radius cutting function on the DRO? It works good but I think the rotary table finish looks better.
I love a good roundening.
good way to start the new year here in Aus James 😁
Happy New Year to all.
Great man..happy new year sir...
Shouting 'you still only have one clamp' didn't help.
Happy new year James !
we used to use bar soap to prevent the aluminum from sticking.. they also sell a professional soap version but cant remember the trade name
Very nice. I've been thinking about trying this project. It will mean I will need a rotary table (I currently use a dividing head for that type of work, but a rotary table would be better).
Hi Clough. I made this some time ago on a 8 part video. I did it a little differently to how you have done it. It worked out pretty perfect. Also did the Z axis drive using a Bridgeport kit & modded to fit a British Tom Senior milling machine. Great video you have done. Some may wish to see the alternative way of doing it.
Happy new year to you & your subscribers. P.S Just doing a series on making a Hemingway kits large bore steady rest. If you would give my channel a shout out it would help me grow at least a little
Regards.
Steve.
Thanks for sharing ( Maybe don't use aluminum for a spacer ) Have a Happy New Year - I pray it's better then the last couple of years... Stay safe and well ....
Only ooooooooooooonnnnnnnnnnnnneeeeeeeee!
Nice job I reckon the finish is down to the materials if the kit comes from the UK it will be free cutting mild steel for sure plus nice sharp cutters help to keep up the good work I've got mine to do next lol lol ...
Wow, not a single screw-up (that we saw), with all those setups. That coffee machine must have worked overtime 🙂
Actually, no. And I didn't do what I normally do and turn a crank the wrong direction and take a big bite out of something. However, next week, you'll see me scrap one of the other parts and have to start over. :)
Hi James, it's strange, @InheritanceMachining is building the exact same knurler atm. It's astonishing, both your way of working are so similar, even some statements are alike...
But nice work, as always!
Interesting. I saw he posted the first part of his build, but I haven't watched it yet. I think he said he was going to wait to watch mine until he was done so we could compare notes. It'll be interesting.
@@Clough42 Very interesting! it's nice to see some different brains doing the same tasks completely different but on the other hand some solutions are almost identical.
But, as history has taught us so often: same problems lead to same solutions...
James, try using WD-40 or similar lube spray to prevent the aluminium from welding to the endmill
He is right, WD40 would have worked.
Did you not show slotting the arms for the knurls? I scanned through the entire and didn’t find it. Wanted to know if you used an endmill or a slitting saw.
Hi James, in one of your episodes you introduced a deburring tool/micromotor. I've been looking through your videos for 2022 and have not been able to locate that video. Could you kindly let me know the make and model as I am very interested in purchasing such a tool. Keep up the good work, I look forward to very Saturday/Sunday for the next entertaining and informative episode. Thanks
❤
At 6.55 minuites in you say the table is set at X 0 and offset in Y , but that cannot be correct, X would have to be offset to the radius of curve at least to start with.
There is no need to offset X because the table rotates.
Nice work James! Why did you cut so deep into the sacrificial aluminium plate? Scratching the surface could work also I think? Or was it a dull end of the cutter to do it this way? Thank you! Best, Job
This end mill has a corner radius.
James - I just realised that your shop and Brandon's are very similar. His is inherited "older tech" whereas yours is all new and you're the first owner. How about a colab comparing capabilities? Your modern lathe with ELS compared to his vintage lathe, your PM mill vs his Bridgebort. You have 3D printing as a tool, he has...stuff in boxes we haven't seen. Just a thought.
Yours is in an attached garage, his is in a separate barn, another difference.
I have stuff in boxes nobody has seen. :)
EVERYBODY over the age of 18 has stuff in boxes that nobody (even them) has ever seen.
@@kensherwin4544 - I have a box from my father's father, which has a label "Don't open until you're on Social Security." I have a few years yet before I qualify :)
Well Done!!! May I ask what size rotary table do you have . I need one and am looking at a few but cant decide on a size I have a PM833TV and yours and mine are similar in size I do believe.
Thanks
There should be a link in the video description. It's a 10" Vertex. I think it's about the biggest table I'd want to have on a 9x35 mill, and at around 100lbs, I think it's about the max that most people would want to pick up and move around by hand.
TiCN will work good on aluminum & mild steel. not so much for cast iron or hard alloys.
James, ever consider tumbling parts to take off rough edges?
I've thought about it. A vibratory tumbler is one more tool in a small shop, and so far it hasn't come to the top of my list.
I'm not sure why your not using the CNC router??? It does run right??
What do you mean by you stopped at .001? Do you mean you stopped at 89 degrees?
Excellent use of the rotary table, but it's not a true tribute to Brandon without some chamfers. 😁
I guess it looks pretty, but that does seem like a pretty gratuitous number of curves and different radii.i know smooth curves reduce stress concentrations but I'm sure the kit could have been designed easier. Though maybe that's missing the point, I guess part of the fun is testing yourself to see if you can make all those curves 😁
The inside curves on the arms are there to clear large diameter parts. I think the rest are to make it aesthetically pleasing and nicer to handle.
what is silver steel? is it cold rolled? keep up the good work.
Silver steel is the UK name for drill rod.
thanks
What does James do for a living?
Definitely do not machine aluminum with that coating. It’s specifically meant for harder, tougher steels. Just get a couple of zirconium dioxide carbide bits for aluminum. You’d be surprised how well they wok. But again, don’t use them for steel. If you want the best compromise just buy everything with titanium dioxide coatings. Really, for this kind of shop work, exotic coatings aren’t advantageous. They come into effect at very high cutting speeds and heavier cuts. Not something a Bridgeport or clone is suited for.
I’ll say though, that you do pretty well with this.
I don't actually know why bastard files are named such, only that they are the flat ones and it's commonly best to use them forward only. That's all, folks - as far as I know, anyway! :)
It’s a heraldry term to do with crest of arms.
Can you not prevent the problem with aluminum nitrite by useing wd40 spray to use as a colent/lube witch I have seen worked great on my carbide saw blade I used to cut alum soft.
Yes. It's not ideal for cutting steel, but it would work. The A9 I pulled out later on works well, too, and it smells better.
yay ..... A9 is ? oil... or ? help :)
Nip...X. Lol
Lol, just watched blomdihacks today and she said move a file opposite the arc to make a round part. Then you did the same thing today. Must be very common knowledge. Was new to me.
I think of it as 'climb filing', because the chip forming action is so similar. The file has less tendancy to dig in at some random point and make a flat spot.
Thank you for the time and effort to make these videos. I like you setups on the rotary table. If you want to see what I think are the best tips on the rotary, check out @joepie221. Not hard to tell that he has made a lot of parts on a rotary table.