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Hey thanks for the eye opening info, good content- subbed.

Once you settled on the ABS-GF did you maintain the same (slower) print speed or were you able to transition back to the "normal" speed?

How's warping on that material? Encloser required? Heated enclosure required?

do yourself a favor, stop using esun abs+, its just trash. And s wsste of filament, money and time.

Was that esun ABS+ used for the old part? I have found that no matter how slowly I print that the layer adhesion is terrible, even though it doesn't shrink as much as normal ABS. I find Sunlu to be pretty good for a relatively cheap ABS, eSun in my experience prints nicely aesthetically but is extremely weak along the layers. Edit: I knew it was eSun just by looking at the matte surface. I just finished what is probably the last spool I will use. It took forever because I couldn't use it for parts that needed good layer adhesion and I had bought 3 spools.

ABS need to be printed with 100% infill to bond right. and you need to let the enclosure heat up as much as possible

19:46 This is what proved it to me. Font spacing with the slash.

Can't really understand why the ASA didn't work. It was recommended by someone in the comments section and they're always right.

nice video. the end result looks really good. most people would probably have settled for the other results - but it's wonderful to create something close to perfection. if you are looking for an alternative filament. i often use a matte PETG from “extrudr” i was looking for the same look and feel for similar applications.

Dude.. forget the vbit. Grab a .062 or .078 or .093 flute carbide ball mill. Max the RPM, go only .003-.005, and just fly. I slow down when feeding straight down and sometimes run a spring pass, but rarely does an engraving take more than a couple minutes. I'm running 10k on the spindle (max), with my down feed at F4. (4ipm) down to Z-.004 and then go up to F20. (20ipm) for lateral moves in aluminum with coolant. Once you see a burr start, swap the tool out. Run a spring pass or play with the RPM if you see chatter. Hell I was doing a paragraph for a decorative diving piece in brass that only took four minutes or so. I know you're limited on rigidity, but crank that RPM! Well done on whole electronic lead screw project. Truly .. bravo. I can't wait to try one myself. Thank you for all your efforts! Don't take this comment too critically.

I've just started using Fusion 360, never used any CAD before. Your designs are awesome. 👍 I've got it for my Qidi 3D printer you reviewed a little while ago. Already knocked out a small bracket for a rear bike camera. A question what flexible filament did you use for the airline end-caps?

And thats why you ALWAYS use filament manufacture recommended setting for functional parts. Speed is great for dust collectors but if there is any need for layer adhesion then speed is your enemy. For me its sad to see that people who claim that they know about the subject show complete ignorance about the material science. Its like you learn first 10 letters from alphabet and then tell everybody that you are greatest writer alive.

I had the same problem with my x-max. The 4 bolts on that hold he hot end to the extruder always come loose unless you locktight them. Just take the two bolts off that hold the hotend and extruder assembly, take it off and the 4 bolts are easily excessible. It caused alot of problems for me because it causes the layers to shift. Anyway, I hope this helps.

11:33 I had a similar issue with my BambuLab A1 Mini on the first layer. Those markings from changes in extrusion rate persisted on the same places through different filaments with the same print file. *After re-enabling flow calibration the markings were gone*. I had it turned off since it didn't seem to make any difference - but it does after all. The strung "cords" across holes might be a different issue, but you can maybe mend the symptoms by enabling "avoid crossing walls" in the quality settings (under advanced) of Bambu Studio.

Great tips and explained them well. I will be trying all of the above I think to get my ASA filament to stay put on my P1S printer

10:34 Those symptoms are something I was experiencing when the little extruder arm that presses the filament against the teeth was bending/warping and/or breaking. Especially common on the plastic extruders of Ender printers, but my situation was my custom built printer. You might want to check the condition of your extrusion system. Especially if it's inside the heat chamber since having that arm bend from the stresses and heat is what caused similar issues for me.

Does anyone know a DIY process to get a “BLACK NICKEL PLATING SOLUTION”? 📍Caswell’s sells a kit for $250’ish that’s on Amazon, but I don’t need enough to do a set of car bumpers, just a small 400ml’s . I’ve seen the results & process from a video on CZcams & the finish is INCREDIBLE!!! Anyone familiar with a “Black Nickel plating Bath”??? Thanks… Lee

Tip about printing with ABS: keep the part warm at 50 degrees Celsius during printing. I have a crappy printer and I have made a cartonboard enclosure to keep the inside warm. Also pump up the bed heating to 80 degrees. The bed heat will keep it all hot. Close all holes with tape. I am printing ABS successfully since a couple of years. No distortion, no warp.

Nice video. The laser etching is impressive. When you put in the heat set inserts, you can quickly press a piece of flat metal on the molten plastic to improve the connection and mating surface.

You sound different, when not whispering directly into our ears… PETG always gets brittle and shatters on me over time. I love ASA and may never print with anything else ever again… You have to use a heated chamber at 60c. You can’t cheat with it. You can’t print fast. I also use flat glass with garnier hairspray. But it’s worth it because it prints perfect and comes right off the bed after it cools off effortlessly. If you want to print fast and no heated enclosure, or be sloppy, ASA is not for you.

Got to love it. A guy who has ZERO experience with surface grinders is designing a CNC system on a manual surface grinder. Any one else see an issue here ? Perhaps he should run the manual surface grinder for a couple of years before attempting this. I have the same grinder in my shop and use it all the time. I don't have any issues with using the grinder and using the DRO to determine heights etc.

matias wandel will find a way to make this out of plywood

Is that just a blue sharpie? I'm having a hard time marking my parts...

Were the final ABS-GF prints made on Bamboo or Quidi-tech?

I forgot to remove the chuck key one time. Luckily it flew out away from me .... right towards a window. Luckily there were some blinds over the window which slowed down the key enough that it did not break the glass. Too much luck in that story.

Home Assistant has a HACS integration for Bambu Lab that makes this extra slick. I use a similar automation that turns on the light, announces over my smart speaker that a print has started and turns on the filter fan. With this integration HA also knows what filament is loaded so I'm working on an automation that will only turn on the filter fans if ABS is the currently loaded filament. More work and more steps involved with this method, so it's not as clean and simple as your solution. But if you enjoy tinkering with smart automations and such it's a great option.

Great video. During the past few months I have hopped aboard with new Qidi Tech XSmart3 and the new Q1 Pro. I am very impressed with their filament quality. I have nonstop success with Qidi Rapido Pla, tough ABS, and their PETG. I just grabbed a roll to try their Nylon CF to try out at $99 a roll and have interest in their glass fiber filament. Looking forward to testing the nylon CF out. Will let you know results. I am looking at starting my own channel in the near future. I enjoy watching your channel much.

Great video. During the past few months I have hopped aboard with new Qidi Tech XSmart3 and the new Q1 Pro. I am very impressed with their filament quality. I have nonstop success with Qidi Rapido Pla, tough ABS, and their PETG. I just grabbed a roll to try their Nylon CF to try out at $99 a roll and have interest in their glass fiber filament. Looking forward to testing the nylon CF out. Will let you know results. I am looking at starting my own channel in the near future. I enjoy watching your channel much. I am hoping to offer a mix of 3d printer and CNC content once I get up and running. Qidi Tech has been incredibly responsive to all questions. I have become a strong supporter of Qidi Tech these past few months, hoping they release a multispool add on for the Q1 Pro.

He's such a wonderful cat. He's a favorite of ours, a well-mannered, handsome, and amusing fellow. We check in for Messi most mornings. Have a great D-day, the four of you: Sasha, Masha, cat boy Messi, and miss Gerda.

is it some PA12-CF Nylon really ?

What about Petg-cf? I presume that would have the same quality outcome... or similar?

Never had good luck with esun….

For pure ABS-PA blend try Calibram BT. The most interesting material to try is "medical" TPU like Isoplast 2540 - shrinkage 0,1%, 87D, HDT 100.

I’m no 3d printer expert nor have i done much if debatably any of it. But i feel like orienting the part so that that layers are diagonal would prevent this type of delaminating. I’m posting this 6 minutes into the video btw.

Nice Job.. When you had this part sitting flat on the table, it looks like the top vertical lip is horizontal. How are you printing a horizontal section without any supports?

Look into the 42AIM30 or 57AIM30 digital servo. Seems to be better quality. Notably more stalled rotor torque, too. Needs the be reprogrammed before first use, factory is 32768 steps/rev

Several of the links are not working in your referral section.

I have recently started using Overture Super PLA+ with good results. It is more like ABS than PLA aside from the normal PLA issues with heat.

Super upload, it answered all my questions about this unit.

Use clear PETG, but with more layers - maybe also with a wider surface on the inside (more extreme dovetail) - to get rid of those hotspots, but also with less of that white/black contrast when not illuminated.

Heated chamber was the key to success for the abs. With the right settings though. I’m running a Voron and never have issues like this when I heat soak the printer and let it cool down slowly

Those distorsion will probably occur even whit injection molding. I've never had luck with ASB on 3D printers for pieces larger than a few centemiter

Hey James! Are you using shrinkage compensation? It is supported in Super Slicer and Orca Slicer. A Value of 99.4% for ABS would give you dimensionally accurate parts. A brim or even brim ears woul help with lifted corners. As you already mentioned, going slower would help reducing internal stresses. The "new" Esun ABS+ is known to have bad layer adhesion. They changed it's composition a year or so ago, it's properties declined drasticly :/ Try to avoid it. Greetings from Germany Alex

James, get some better laser glasses. They should be amber. Those green glasses do not protect as far as i'm aware.

This seems the company actually cares. Any reason to look at the X-max 3 vs this X-Plus 3? Seems like a lot extra cash for not a lot extra.

Thank you so much for this video. I grabbed some ABS-GF for an upcoming Milo CNC build. Initial tests show awesome results.

I use a P1S with all the filaments youve mentioned and have none of the issues. But Im also super anal about humidity control. Dont know if you do that, but I would suggest aiming for 18% for best results.

Wht is the max volumetric flow rate for qidi i-fast ?

I think the biggest take away from all this is heated chamber. I dont even think about printing anything until my chamber is at least 50 C

Adding circular "anchors" on the corner helps with the lift. Also keeping the bed heated after the print. and slowly cooling it down lessens the curling of the material. Together with adding a minimum layer time. So it doesnt print/cool too fast. I have virtually no warping. The high output of the parts cooler that some people have especially on the side is ussuayl the cause of the fast shrinkage. Its imo all about temp management, and slow cooling.