G'day Joey. Nice informative video. Just a question , I was surprised that the broken spoke (threaded end) looked like it protruded about 3 mm. out of the internal nipple. Would this mean that the spokes used in this build were marginally long. Also noticed the container of boiled linseed , do you use this in your wheel builds. I've heard about linseed oil however I have no practical experience with it's use What's your opinion of its holding properties. Keep the videos coming , take care 👍👍
Thanks and good questions Paul! Yes, the 3mm protruding out is a bit excessive, but I'd consider 1-2mm acceptable, or at least better a little long than a little short. Something else I didn't mention in the video, the spoke broke 8mm or so below the nipple. This is generally caused by either previous damage to the spoke or something going into the wheel (which was the case fo this broken spoke). Most typical broken spokes are due to age or fatigue, poor quality spokes or too short in length will break at one of the far ends (j-bend or nipple). I use linseed oil on all my wheel builds except when using a locking nipple like the DT Prolock type. It's kind of an old school wheel builder thing, and lots of folks don't really like it, but I feel like it does a good job. I like the linseed oil to be on the threaded section of the spoke and the flange of the nipple. It works great as a lubricating oil for the tensioning and truing process, then acts as a mild Loctite once it dries. It does take longer to harden that Loctite and isn't quite as powerful, but it holds well yet doesn't make truing a wheel later on difficult like a typical thread locker.
I've never owned a belt drive bike, and honestly I haven't ever really considered it. To me, the cons outweigh the pros. Belt drives require a frame that can be disconnected or some other way to get the belt on because the belt can't be disconnected. They only work on internally geared or single speed hubs as well. Thanks for the question!
Great work! The Park Tool wheel holder looks very convenient.
Thanks! Yeah, the wheel holder is a nice tool. Works great for this kind of repair. I also like the 45 degree mount for doing tubeless tire work.
Really useful video Joey, many thanks
You're welcome! Thanks for taking the time to leave a very nice comment, I really appreciate it!
Very useful, do you lower all the wheel tension before removing the individual spoke?
I do if I'm replacing a spoke or multiple spokes that are damaged and still intact, but in the case of this wheel, I didn't have a choice.
G'day Joey. Nice informative video. Just a question , I was surprised that the broken spoke (threaded end) looked like it protruded about 3 mm. out of the internal nipple. Would this mean that the spokes used in this build were marginally long. Also noticed the container of boiled linseed , do you use this in your wheel builds. I've heard about linseed oil however I have no practical experience with it's use What's your opinion of its holding properties. Keep the videos coming , take care 👍👍
Thanks and good questions Paul! Yes, the 3mm protruding out is a bit excessive, but I'd consider 1-2mm acceptable, or at least better a little long than a little short. Something else I didn't mention in the video, the spoke broke 8mm or so below the nipple. This is generally caused by either previous damage to the spoke or something going into the wheel (which was the case fo this broken spoke). Most typical broken spokes are due to age or fatigue, poor quality spokes or too short in length will break at one of the far ends (j-bend or nipple).
I use linseed oil on all my wheel builds except when using a locking nipple like the DT Prolock type. It's kind of an old school wheel builder thing, and lots of folks don't really like it, but I feel like it does a good job. I like the linseed oil to be on the threaded section of the spoke and the flange of the nipple. It works great as a lubricating oil for the tensioning and truing process, then acts as a mild Loctite once it dries. It does take longer to harden that Loctite and isn't quite as powerful, but it holds well yet doesn't make truing a wheel later on difficult like a typical thread locker.
Good tips. What do you think about the gates belt drive set ups? Sounds expensive to me. But easier to maintain.
I've never owned a belt drive bike, and honestly I haven't ever really considered it. To me, the cons outweigh the pros. Belt drives require a frame that can be disconnected or some other way to get the belt on because the belt can't be disconnected. They only work on internally geared or single speed hubs as well. Thanks for the question!
@@JoeyMesa there is the pinion drive like co motion makes.. But the price is north of $4k for the bike.