MTB Geometry most important ones. How to change "real" reach and stack measurements
Vložit
- čas přidán 30. 06. 2024
- Mountain bike geometry. 2 most important measurements and how to change them to fit your body type. MTB reach and stack explained.
MTB geometry can be overwhelming and it can be hard to know which numbers are really important and which one are just kind of important. In this video I give my 2 cents on what's MOST important, reach and stack.These 2 numbers determine the relatively fixed relationship between your feet and hands when out of the saddle and attacking the trail. When right, you're balanced and able to move freely around the bike and quickly adjust to rapidly changing conditions.
Next, I'll explain HOW to accurately measure reach and stack on your bike. Since I'm solo, I'm using a sheet rock square modified to allow me to easily see my numbers. As this measures "frame" numbers, I'll introduce my own measurements; REAL reach and REAL stack! Copyright pending :-)
"Real" reach and stack measurements are from the bottom bracket to the handle bar grips instead of the center of the head tube. I think this is a better, apple to apples measurement to compare real body positions between bikes with different dimensions or different bar/stem set ups.
Knowing this number allows you to customize your current bike to better fit your body by changing spacers, stems or bars to achieve your ideal attack position.
0:00 Start
0:57 2 most important numbers
1:23 Definition of reach and stack
1:40 Why these are so important
2:45 How to measure frame reach and stack
4:20 "Real" reach and stack
5:40 Why measure this?
6:38 How to change your bike to fit you
#mtblife #singletrack #trekbikes
Music courtesy of the Free CZcams Music Library
Instagram: / trailbreaker01
Here's an Amazon Affiliate link. Clicking on it costs you nothing but helps to support the channel!
Drywall square: amzn.to/2XEftd0
If you found this to be of any help, please LIKE!
And If you're like me and refuse to act your age, please SUBSCRIBE!
modern mtb geometry, how to measure mtb geometry, mountain bike, mountain biking, bike fitting, bike geometry, bike size, frame size, bicycle geomety, bike fit, frame geometry, how to, mtb reach explained, mtb reach and stack, mtb stack explained, change mtb geometry, bike geometry explained, mtb stem length, mtb stem spacers, mtb bar width, mtb bar rise, mtb bar width guide, mountain bike geometry, mtb geometry, bar sweep, bar rise, short stem, wide bars, singletrack
So this is the best I've seen on this subject... Thanks!!!
Thanks for that! Glad you liked it👊
There are only videos on how to measure bikes but none on how to mesure youreself ,on how to undestand what is your reach,to understand how to choose a bike by your body.
I watched so many videos on the subject, including Lee McCormack, all mention that R.A.D. should be measured to the middle point of string attached to handlebar; and nobody says that reach should be measured the same way. Many suggest to use formula (reach) = (height in cm) * 2.55 which will be 466 for six foot tall person.
Thank you for this videos, it made many things clear.
Also, I noticed that if I move front about 20 mm higher, for example by replacing 120mm fork onto 150mm, reach changes too: it becomes about 20 mm shorter.
Good stuff. Lee McCormick(Lee likes bikes) has a book "Dialed" that goes into great detail on the subject. He goes into the R.A.D. rider area distance...seems with the longer/ slcker modern bikes most people are riding bikes to big for their optimal leverage, thus most efficient riding. My "real reach" should be 170.18cm(hight) x2.54=432real reach.
The Bike manufacturer suggest a med. at 5'7". That is a fram reach of 458. I should have bought a small. Even though they say a small is for people under 5'5"
Thanks for the info! I agree most are riding too big. Both of my bikes are around 470 mm reach and I'm 6' with a long torso and arms (only a 32" inseam). I really need to try a smaller frame to see if I've been right all these years 😀👊
Yesterday's Large is today's Medium due to modern geometry now
I spent about a month drawing up the specs on graph paper of different bikes when I was shopping for a hardtail. I had test ridden multiple bikes and even though some were very similar in their geometry, they each had a different feel. Even after my purchase, I later changed out the bar and stem to a wider bar and shorter stem. Those two changes made a world of difference in the way that it handled
Nicely done, I appreciate the practical approach. I was just working on my bike today and when that happens I usually end up surfing CZcams for related material and the stack discussion filled the bill tonight. Keep up the practical content.
Spencer Alridge Thanks, Spencer!
Well done...one of the best explanations of measuring “real” reach I’ve seen. Thank you for sharing the knowledge!
George Paz Thanks! I’m glad you found it helpful 👊
Backsweep on very wide handlebar brings you further back to reduce reach increase. Very good video !
I love this explanation dude! Thank you so much for posting this. I get so sick of people automatically suggesting a shorter stem without any scientific data to support it. What you have explains makes perfect sense.
Great presentation on the application of frame measurements and what you can do to dial in the fit.
Great timing Steve. I've been looking into an upgrade lately. That is, if MTB's ever come back in stock this year. I'll be using your advise later today. Thanks for another informative video.
I appreciate that, Gary! It was pretty fun. I've gotten my 27.5 enduro and 29er trail bike to within 5mm "real" reach and stack. Dropped the trail bike's stem 10mm and cut 20mm from the enduro bike's 780mm bars. Now it just comes down to what tire size I want to ride today😀
Nice video bro. keep up the good work!
What a fabulous explanation. I had never thought about the wider bars impacting how cramped the cockpit can feel.
Glad you liked it. I personally think bars have gotten too wide for most of us regular riders. I've cut mine down to 750 mm and I can maneuver better.
@@TrailBreaker Agreed the ultra-wide bar craze is madness. I'm 5'8 and I use a 680mm bar which to me feels perfect. I don't like wide bars.
Excellent information, clearly and simply communicated. Well done, Trail Breaker.
Thank you kindly! I appreciate that👊
3 thumbs up! excellent explaination, best out there so far
Great video! Very simple with a focus on whats really important!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for the tips . I am going to give these suggestions a try.
Dropkick Murphys! Got to love it!!
You know it👊🏻👍🏻
Excellent way to figure this out.
Glad it was helpful!
Yep, still refusing to act my age. I never understood stack and reach until I watched this video. Thank you for such a simple, yet thorough explanation
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching👊
Great video. Thanks
Thank it was very informative 🤙
Glad it was helpful!
very informative 👍🏻
Thanks!
Thank you !
👍 thanks for the info.
You bet! 👊
I am between med and large. I always buy a large and shorten and raise the stem, make the bars shorter and move the seat a bit forward for a good feeling fit.
Hi Steve, I just saw your video on the issues I'm having with a super nice ibis Mtb I received from my wife that she bought for me used. Unfortunately, she has no clue about bike geometry and bought me an XL bike but I ride a large. I can't take it back so now I'm stuck with it. So after watching your techniques I hope I can make this bike make it fit me or I might have to sell it. great video
Thanks! Hopefully it’ll help. Short stem, low stack and a shorter bar (not 800mm) with some rear sweep and not much rise. If it’s got a flip chip for high/low geometry try the low position. That slacks the head tube angle slightly shortening the reach.
Using sweep to reduce reach/RAD works on paper but alters the angle of the wrist sideways which may be a good thing but it could also be a bad. As you say experimentation is needed and has to be accepted as the manufacturers data is a guide at best!
Love the shirt!
I believe the way that you measure the bikes reach and stack is true. More important before you buy the bike is to measure your rider area distance to determine what bike size you need rather than after making the bike fit you
Great vid, I want to do my own bike fit as I can’t afford a pro one. How can I get started, watched a few CZcams vids but just confused
Nice, interesting vid, fits in well with the RAD concept from Leelikesbikes.
If you need to raise your reach number on a bike with a slack head tube angle, it is very effectful to drop all spacers under the stem and get a handlebar with higher rise instead. This will give you the same stack but greatly gain reach. I did it on my Orbea Rallon, swapped the 20mm riserbar with a 40mm and removed the two spacers under the stem - when I measured afterwards this had given me 13mm reach, which is a huge difference. Another good option is to experiment with bar roll, I found that by rolling mine slightly forward I gained a much more comfortable riding position - and in numbers I gained 5mm reach and 4mm stack. Finaly I have a third nice option (this will lower your stack though) if you have a stem with a rise to it, mine has 6 degree it will give you quite alot of reach to turn the stem around so the rise is negative, on my Rallon this little swap gave me 7mm reach but also took 6mm stack, therefor I actually went back to having it the normal way.
Great info! Thanks!
Also a fan of rolling bars a little to suit better reach. Also works components make a 5mm reach adjust headset that works well. It’s not enough to make your medium a large but it does help and in combination with other adjustments can sometimes make the difference.
You said exactly what I am dealing with. Went from a shorter handlebar on my old Giant Rincon XL to a much wider 780 mm flatter bar that came on my new Giant Trance x 3 29. I'm 6'3" 300. Clydesdale rider. Recovered from a stroke and balance isnt as good as it once was so I'm really uncomfortable on the new bike but was still confident on the old. It just wasn't slack at all. My hands get numb from too much weight on the bars now and I'm having control issues with the longer sweep of the bars and longer wheelbase. You explained the problem I am facing but how do I remedy? A stem extension? All the spacers are under the stem already. I feel like I need to raise the bars about 1-2 inches to get the weight in the stack and off the bar. Curious for your opinion. Should I buy a stem extender or riser bars you think? Thanks for doing your videos. Learning alot.
Try a shorter stem (35-40mm if you're currently using longer) and riser bars. Don't be afraid to cut the bars down. My enduro bike came with 780mm bars. I rode it a year and recently cut them down to 760mm due to numbness and the fact the bike is really long. MUCH better! Rotating the bars slightly toward you will also move the grips closer to the seat. Just be sure the angle of the grips isn't messed up by rotating them.
I’m revisiting your video after changing my fork and leaving the steering tube longer to allow for more adjustment. My previous fork was cut to short from factory and couldn’t do much with it. Question for you: how do I measure my reach so that I can adjust the bike to it? Or is the reach achieved/known after adjusting the bikes geo for a balanced neutral position? TIA. 🤟🏼
Joy of bike does a nice job explaining how to measure YOUR size here. Check it out czcams.com/video/rHagRovHSYs/video.html
Love the video but where did you come up with your 470 reach how do we calculate that
Nice video! Question, what do you think about standover. I wonder if I made a mistake not taking that into account when I bought my first really nice mtb. I got a Rocky Mountain Altitude and its an amazing bike but one thing is how the dropper post sits in (seat tube length) and the standover, which doesn't change strangely no matter the size frame. Its about 812 which now I know seems very tall vs like a Pivot or Transition. In general it does feel a little close for comfort if you know what I mean when standing but most say standover does not matter as you are on your pedals. But I can't help thinking maybe some of these other super low standover bikes would have been better.
Yeah, that's tall! I really haven't run into a problem since all my bikes have good clearance, My Kona is at 705mm and the Trek is 737mm so, no, I never really ran into an issue. I guess it's worth considering.
is there a video talk about choose saddle for normal street or trail bike? it is easy for my prostate area to go numb after riding for a while
I just discovered your channel. I like it, pretty cool, i have a question, i'm waiting on my Trance to arrive, should be here any day, I know its old geometry so i was hoping to change that, what i would like to know is what do you guys think of those Headset Bearing Kits to increase the Head tube Slack? I've been checking out a set, it's the Cane Creek Angleset, this particular set i'm eyeing increases the slack 2 degrees, I was thinking of having it installed and increase the Slack from 67 degrees to 65. What do you think?
I think it's a great idea. But, I recommend riding it a few times on the trails you mostly do stock and fully dial the suspension. Get it riding the best you can to get a feel for tight singletrack, fast steep descents and long or technical climbs. 2 degrees is a lot. You'll really notice it on switchbacks and steep climbing. It'll lower your BB too (pedal strikes). When I upped the travel on my fork from 130mm to 150mm it slacked the HT about a degree and is very noticeable but worth the extra cush! Let me know what you think when it's done👊👍
Great explanation of real reach and real stack. But how does that relate to my body so I know what reach and stack suits me?? Thanks
Mine was based on trial and error over time. I found a bike I rode well and could pump, hop and corner easily and measured IT. Now In know what size is best for me. Since this video, Joy of Bike did some videos using RAD (rider area distance) to determine a good fit. It's just a distance from the BB to the grips and determines whether you can develop full power in the "pull" motion. Here's a link czcams.com/video/rHagRovHSYs/video.html
thanks
If you could explain this...you said that increasing the bar length brings you forward and stretches out your position, I agree with that. What I’m trying to wrap my head around is if you increase the length of the bar and run tape to the center of both grips, isn’t increasing the bar length going to position the tape horizontally closer to the bottom bracket, thus decreasing the reach?
If you have a lot of bar sweep then the tape WILL be a little closer to the seat moving it a tad closer to the BB but you’re not holding the tape in the middle you’re holding the grips way out near the ends. I never adjust bar width for reach issues. I cut them for a width that keeps my older shoulders from being too open. I think bars have gotten way too long. 750-760 is perfect for me and I have long arms😁. I use stem length and spacers above and below the stem as well as maybe a flat/riser type bar to really change the feel and geo of my bikes. Hope that makes sense.
If you have a more slack HT then you can get away with more reach. Do to positioning your weight over the front axle to prevent washing out. Not a brand loyal anything but your trek is a pretty looking machine, god bless you.
Thanks so much, Eric! It's funny, I've had this bike for 3 years and even after slackening it with the 150mm over-fork I'm gonna try a shorter stem to move my weight back even further. You gotta experiment all the time and not be afraid to make mistakes. It's the only way to be sure you have the best set-up. And thanks! She is nice to look at 😀
whats the closest mesurement you can get to the reach the bikecompanies use? like with the shortest stem and as low as you can go with it ? maybe with that you can just add it on to the store numbers to see how much you have to work with
What are the options to reduce reach in order of least cost to higher cost?
Great explanation! It was very helpful! How do i find MY ideal reach and stack though? Thank you!
Thanks! Good question! Trial and error. Ride lots of bikes and measure the one you love😀
Ok,so now that I know how to measure true reach and stack, how do I know what is a good geometry for me? I’m 6’0” tall with about a 33.5” inseam and I recently bought a Canyon Neuron mail order and got a large based on their fit calculator. I may have jumped the gun on the purchase before doing my work on geometry. I’m not sure where I should go with changing stems, spacers , seat front and aft, etc... bike feels good but I feel like I may struggle a bit leaning back to lighten the front end, I don’t know if that had to do with more of a traditional seat tube angle of 74.5, where I find many new trail bikes have a steeper seat tube.
Seat tube angle has more to do with how a bike peddles up hill. They've gotten steeper recently mostly to accommodate bigger wheels and longer travel. Since all of your big, critical maneuvering happens out of the saddle, the relationship between your feet and grips determine good fit. I found my size from trial and error but the video from Joy of Bike with Lee McCormack might help you with a shortcut! Check it out. Thanks czcams.com/video/rHagRovHSYs/video.html
I am 69 inches tall with a wingspan of 74 inches and a 29-30 inch inseam. Yes i am like a gorilla at 230 pounds.i just bought a 21 Trek Rail in a large. The bike itself feels big and the cockpit maybe a little long, but comfy. On the medium the bike feels the right size but may a little cramped in the cockpit. I am new to mountain biking and have 20 more days to exchange. What would be your recommendation. I want to get this right on a 9k bike lol any help would be appreciated!
Im 5’ 7 3/4” . I bought a trek roscoe ml because I did sit on a medium and it “felt” small for me. Is it worth adjusting these things, stem. riser bars if bike frame is actually just a little too big? I dont want to dump even more money into something thats always going to be incorrect.
Great video. I'm wanting to get a Scott Spark. 177cm tall with 86cm in seam. Rad is on 81cm. M or L, what do you think?
I’ll need to check Lee’s #s but my guess is M. I’m 3” taller than you with 1” less inseam so when I’m in the hinge position I’m all torso and arms and need the longer reach. Your hips-to-hands length will be the biggest factor in how a bike feels and whether you are cramped or stretched out while riding. If you’re on the fence try less bike first, if you can. You’ll be more maneuverable. Best of luck👊🤙
Great down and dirty vid, love it.
Thanks 👍 I try not to blather too much😀
Sounds like the joy RAD measurement system but lacking the key diagonal measurement
Great shirt! Now I need to watch the video. Lol
You should! Hey, whatever gets your attention 😀 Let me know what you think👊
@@TrailBreaker this was super helpful. I recently upgraded our bikes to the trek marlins but I bought my son's with some room for future growth. This was useful on how to get it more comfortable for him till he grows a couple inches more.
Nice shirt dude
is there any particular reason cheaper bikes or older ones tend to have a lot of spacers and a long stem? It's something I noticed that applies to lower end bikes regardless of intended use
Great 👍 video Steve. I am feeling that I made a bad purchase. I’m 182cm tall with a 32inch (82cm) inseam and bought a Kona Mahuna size large. The reach on this bike is 465mm, I’m having second thoughts if I would be suited with a medium. What are your thoughts? Thanks!
Yeah, Kona's are notoriously long. Try a 35 mm stem and a bar with some sweep. Also, check the bar width. Cutting it a little will pull you back a little.
Thanks for your reply!
the ''rear reach'' you are referring to is called effective reach (from center of BB to centre of bar where it's mounted on the stem)
In Norway Reach is called Ramme Lengde which means Frame Length, actually that makes sense.
cus it's the length of the mainframe basically
Yes. But I wanted to try to take into account bar rise and sweep for a better comparison. Thanks!
@@TrailBreaker yea it makes sense, I am not sure if that is correct measurement for effective reach or the one I mentioned, as ppl seem to use same term for these two. Not sure if there are two seperate names for it
@@TrailBreaker this is an important measurement.
I am a similar height to you and am trying to decide between a m/l or a large. Can I ask you what your wingspan is? Thanks.
I am 72" tall with a wingspan of 74" (I have long arms and torso). L is perfect
Do you know your bike's numbers? What's your favorite bikes reach? let us know!
Is your AC Joint good now? Do you feel any discomfort after many months?
All good! If I wreck and go down on that side I'll feel it for a week or two but that's it😀
I have a short reach bike do i need to put spacers above to make my reach go a little longer?
No. Try a slightly longer stem and maybe wider bars. Both will shift some weight forward.
gave a like just for the t-shirt
I'll take it, lol! Dude, I get stopped almost every day I wear that shirt. DKMs have a rabid following! One of my favorite bands 😀👊
The top tube distance is irrelevant for descending? I'm buying a core 2 capra with a smmaler reach of 427 compared to my bike 430 my rad is good at 425 but the top tube will go from 610 to 563. So the bike is getting longer and bigger but the top tube is getting a lot shorter. is that a problem? important? I want to jump and ride DH
There's a reason DH and enduro bikes have short stems and riser bars and XC bikes have long stems and flat bars. When pointing down hill shorter TT allows you to stay over the BB with some bend/range in the arms. Otherwise you can get pulled over the bars easier
Hi im planning to get Vitus sommet may be you can give advice I'm 170cm and in between size small and size medium the reach of the small are 418 and the medium 443 which size will suit me better thanks in advance
Hi Makaryo. Since you’re in between sizes you COULD ride either. But which one depends on HOW you ride. If you ride mellow singletrack and prefer longer rides, medium might be more comfortable. But if you like rowdy trails, are really active on the bike, or do a lot of drops and jumps you might like the maneuverability or the small. Just look what people your height can do on a BMX bike! Good luck 👊🤙
I have a frame that fits me but it only has less an inch of standover clearance. Is that okay?
Sure, if it fits how you ride. Some bikes just have tall top tubes
Ok so you measure reach and stack but what to do with it if you don't know the optimum numbers for the specific rider in question? I don't think the video comes with an explanation here.
I came due to the first hit in the search, I stayed because of the DKM shirt. :D
Lol! You obviously have excellent taste😊👊
@@TrailBreaker Great riding tunes! Especially on my bike circa their Gang's All Here tour.
I'm looking for a resource to recommend new geo based on my height, wingspan, etc..., can you recommend anything?
You get thumbs up for the Murphy’s TShirt
Hell yeah! 2 days 'til St Patrick's day😀👊🍻
Very good, So please what about buying a bike at 5' 9.5"? I cant decide on S3 or S4, as I am just starting out, at 64yrs old, Thank You
You're probably a solid Medium for most bikes or 18.5" on Treks
I'm 5'9" (173cm) with 32" (82cm) inseam. My Trek Roscoe is a medium but I find my wifes size small Roscoe a better fit and more fun to ride. I'm 63.
Your best bet is to borrow,/test a few bikes if you can.
i’m the same height and a S3 feels big for me. Weighing up if i should have got the S2! but going to make some adjustments to shorten the reach.
Hi. What frame size do you recomand for a 185cm person? My inside leg is 89cm. It would mean a lot if you could help
You seem to pretty solidly a Large. I’m your height but have shorter legs and large is perfect. Medium is too cramped and XL would be a lot of bike to maneuver
@@TrailBreaker huge thanks
Hello, I am 5ft11 and I have a 27/28 inseam. Should I buy a large bike and small crank? Thanks
I think you might be more comfortable with a medium frame for stand over height and adjust bar width and rise/stem length if you need more room up top
How do you find out what’s good reach for you?
Ride different bikes and see what hurts or if you feel crowded. Too short and you will feel really upright and cornering will be tough. Too long and either your back will hurt or your hands will get numb. Also, if the bike feel ok but you tend to loose traction on the front tire in turns, a slightly longer stem?less bar sweep may help all weight to the front. One more thought...loooong bikes can be great downhill but not-so-great on climbs
The hypotenuse of reach and stack (triangle) is RAD. Rider Area Distance.
Not 100% the reach and stack get you to the top of the headtube, below the stem and handlebar. RAD goes to the middle of the grips on the handlebar. So they will be close, but the RAD will always be slightly bigger than the hypotenuse of reach and stack on mtn bikes.
@@byrond123 Yes, frame reach and stack are for general frame sizing. But real reach and stack is what matters. You can change real reach and stack with stem and bars for proper fit.
If you can help me with the solution, Too much weight on hands, but ONLY when sitting down. By the way i use 70mm stem with 680mm handlebar. Thanks
That’s a pretty long stem. Try a shorter stem, maybe 50 mm ish. Also check where your saddle is mounted. You might be able to loosen it and slide it forward just a bit.
@@TrailBreaker thanks will try
Attack position is a misnomer. Research Lee McCormack for "hinge"
Surely seat post angle should be included in this equation?
Was thinking that as well. Moving the seat forward or back, rail height, amount of seat padding and bike shorts.
how does it feel if a bike is too big/small?
e.g reach too long
Too big - you will feel stiff on berms and "attached" to bike, without any joy from high speed and descending. I am 183cm tall and frame reach 450mm with 35mm stem, 15mm spacers underneath and 800mm width bar suits me very well.
Too big will feel sluggish to turn and lean and hard to hop. Too small will feel really fun and poppy. Most people ride bikes too big for them.
Well I learned how to measure. But you did not comment on how to determine the correct reach.
My problem is I don't know what reach I'm looking for given my height.
Ride (borrow) different size bikes and see what size you ride best. Then, measure it and THAT is your benckmark. Some riders prefer a really bike bike and others like a relatively short bike for their height.
Hi Steve. After many sleepless nights and a few years of experiments I can effectively determine the correct reach and stack for you and also which bars, stem and spacers you will need for any given bike based on your own personal measurements. This was bought on by my problems finding a bike that fits me. I have really long arms and legs. Turns out I need an extra large in most brands (even though I'm 5'10). It would be good to make contact. Thanks.
Interesting!
Why is reach important? I'm not sure if I heard you mention that. Thanks.
I think the vertical and horizontal distance from your feet to the grips when you’re in the attack position is the most important because it affects your balance front-to-back and your ability to primarily weight through your feet and keep your hands light. It’s important to not be stretched out or cramped when doing the FUN stuff like drops, jumps and downhill. Wheelbase and head tube angle affect stability but being balanced and able to move within your cockpit keep you safer and ride more comfortably (no sore back or numb hands.)
DROPKICK MURPHYS!!!
👊🏻 So fun!
For 5’5 is 17.2 inches (437mm) would that be a comfortable reach?
That seems about right. Bike manufacturers have spec sheets for sizing based on height. I am either a M or L for most at 6'. However, I have relatively long arms and upper body for my height so I need a L for the reach. Everyone's different so a test ride is best. Even if you can only find another bike you fit well, measure IT, and another bike with that same reach should feel right.
Sounds a lot like the concept RAD from Leelikesbikes
Same basic concept. He measures the straight distance from pedals to grips for reference and I found my “real” reach that I like. I like RAD but I came up with my method almost a year and a half ago well before I saw his video 😊. After I saw his video I checked my bike and it was dead-on sized right for me by RAD! Different strokes, Brother🤙
I came... up with? haha
Yeah, I put this video out before Lee McCormack and JoyofBike videos did their sizing videos. I actually tried their method and came up with the same size bike I have. I also think their method is better if your main discipline is jumping
R.a.d.
Yes, same concept
P
I have to disagree - stack height is not the correct way to measure correct frame sizing. Handlebars are never at the stack height. There are too many variables above your stack height.
I agree 100%! That's why I came up with this method of "real" reach and stack where I use the BB and the grips. I only consider adjusting the stack spacers to get the grips where I want them. I couldn't care less about where the top of the HT is. Stem length, stack height, bar width, rise and sweep matter.
I'll soon be 59. What age are you refusing to act? The reason why I ask is In saw your overcoming your fear of jumps video.
Mike Right now I’m refusing to act 54 😊
@@TrailBreaker over coming your fear of jumping at 54 is crazy. Crazy in a good way
Easy... not really
your bike is ugly. let me have it👀
Boring
Sorry, Dude! I’ll try to spice up numbers better next time😁
strange to come to such a video and say it's boring. why would anyone sign up for a math class for example and should it's boring? you kind of did similar thing here.