This deserves top comment. I absolutely needed the 8mm bolts to get the rotor off the hub. Would not budge at all with the parking brake off. Job is done… thank You!
You're an absolute legend. I thought the threads were welded to the hub for some reason, you just saved me hundreds of dollars on a new hub and labor to press the bearing into It. Thank you so much!!
This works great, and thank you so much for your lesson. I'd just like to add 2 things. If you're working on the ground with one side of the car jacked up be sure to find the bad stud mark it with a sharpie and line it up as close to the car door as possible. Because you wouldn't be able to move it after. AWD after all. Second, is if you don't have his puller, just use a stack of larger washers and a standard nut. So the nut should be an M12x1. 25 and the washers should be the ones that fit an M14 bolt. This will keep the washer from gulling up on the threads and the nut can go deeper than a lug nut because of the open back. I did those things and followed the rest of his instructions and it worked without a hitch. Thanks again!
Thanks for comment! Can this be done without pneumogun? Just with regular wrenches on the ground? Last tires change in shop ended up with one stud bolt screwed up. Ty!
@@cyrilscherman6807 it totally can. The only thing is it may hurt your hand. I used a breaker bar on a few as well, and they pulled in with no issues. I guess you can interlink wrenches or find a pipe to slide over for extra leverage if needed.
@@cyrilscherman6807 oh, and one more thing, be sure not to over tighten the lugs. It maybe best to barrow a torque wrench. It only takes 90 flbs go much over that and the lugs can strip out on the studs.... It's super annoying. I liked back when you can actually tighten a lug hard. But not these.
The stud installer tool (I used the one by Lisle) worked great. Just some light machine oil on the stud and lug nut and a 24” long breaker bar was all it took to pull the new stud into place. No impact wrench needed. And that means I didn’t damage the lug nut that I’d used to pull the new stud into place. Oh, and I didn’t need to bend the heat shield out of place at all on my 2016 Forester XT.
Oh, man, I wish I had just done this myself today. That looks very doable. Instead, I took it to a shop and now the vehicle is out of service. Thanks for showing us this!
Should I weld the Stud? cause in brazil i take to the mechanic, but he did the "eletric weld" while should be the "MIG weld" or i need find one "specefic stud?" and my model is 93 legacy, but the stud got loose when i tryed replace a flat tire
Awesome video. Question: if I'm only replacing one stud, do I really need to disassemble the brake components? It looks like there may be enough room to maneuver as long as I align the broken stud on the right, as shown in the video. Am I missing something?
How did you turn the wheel to align it with the cut out. My 17 Forrester is locked up to the transmission. If i start it and put it in neutral it spins foward and i cant stop it. Like it was in drive
If you are doing it in a lift just grab a big screwdriver and turn the studs If you are doing it on the ground on the shifter there is a little piece that you could take out you are going to need to poke and shift to neutral
I need to do this on my son's Subaru. Question. Would it make sense to change all of the studs since we have it off, or is it ok to just change the broken one?
No, the car does not need to be neutral but the wheels need to be off the ground If you do not have a lift you could put it in neutral rotated where you need it and then put it back in park. But make sure you put something in the wheel so they don’t move front or back. If you doing the front one you could put the emergency brake on if you do the rear you need to put something in the front wheels so it doesn’t move
Why I can't spin the studs after I took off the rotor? So I have to get inside the car and switch gear to N? If I let the car on N, the alarm would keep screaming and battery would run out soon.
@@efixes8010 I made it easier I took my Forester to repair shop and they replaced 5 lug bolts on left front wheel in about 15 minutes. Thanks for the video it helped me decide to let someone else do the repairs.
8MM NOT 12MM BOLTS ....when removing the brake disk from the hub. 8mmx1.25 thread pitch
Thanks, they didn’t look like 12MM to me!
Thanks!!!
Thank you I appreciate you taking the time to throw that up
This deserves top comment. I absolutely needed the 8mm bolts to get the rotor off the hub. Would not budge at all with the parking brake off. Job is done… thank You!
This guy is a good teacher, always gets good shots, Great for visual learners. Best of all saves money...
This came in very helpful today. Tire shop over tightened my lugs and 3 studs broke off. Thanks for this video.
Wow 3!!
Wow 3. I've had my Subaru tire shop do one bolt twice on different vehicles, but two on a single vehicle, ouch.
Whats the torque spec for subaru forester 2019 wheel nuts?
I set them to 90 lbs
Crazy that these shops are just ramming our lug nuts on with air impacts willy nilly. Fuck the next guy I guess
You're an absolute legend. I thought the threads were welded to the hub for some reason, you just saved me hundreds of dollars on a new hub and labor to press the bearing into It. Thank you so much!!
This video saved my ass today, I over tightened a lug n now I broke my stud. Thanks!
Thank you so much!!! Very simple, clear and easy to follow.
Very clear and informative. Thank you!
This works great, and thank you so much for your lesson. I'd just like to add 2 things. If you're working on the ground with one side of the car jacked up be sure to find the bad stud mark it with a sharpie and line it up as close to the car door as possible. Because you wouldn't be able to move it after. AWD after all. Second, is if you don't have his puller, just use a stack of larger washers and a standard nut. So the nut should be an M12x1. 25 and the washers should be the ones that fit an M14 bolt. This will keep the washer from gulling up on the threads and the nut can go deeper than a lug nut because of the open back. I did those things and followed the rest of his instructions and it worked without a hitch. Thanks again!
Thanks for comment!
Can this be done without pneumogun? Just with regular wrenches on the ground? Last tires change in shop ended up with one stud bolt screwed up. Ty!
@@cyrilscherman6807 it totally can. The only thing is it may hurt your hand. I used a breaker bar on a few as well, and they pulled in with no issues. I guess you can interlink wrenches or find a pipe to slide over for extra leverage if needed.
@@SeekerOfLight oh, the car is only 2018, and recently I changed myself lower suspension control arm, so don’t expect problems with it. Thank you Sir!
@@cyrilscherman6807 no problem man, best of luck to you
@@cyrilscherman6807 oh, and one more thing, be sure not to over tighten the lugs. It maybe best to barrow a torque wrench. It only takes 90 flbs go much over that and the lugs can strip out on the studs.... It's super annoying. I liked back when you can actually tighten a lug hard. But not these.
Great video. I like your no nonsense approach.
The stud installer tool (I used the one by Lisle) worked great. Just some light machine oil on the stud and lug nut and a 24” long breaker bar was all it took to pull the new stud into place. No impact wrench needed. And that means I didn’t damage the lug nut that I’d used to pull the new stud into place. Oh, and I didn’t need to bend the heat shield out of place at all on my 2016 Forester XT.
Thanks for the video. I couldn't figure out how to fit in the new Stud. It's too tight. 1 light hammer hit and it was good to go.
Oh, man, I wish I had just done this myself today. That looks very doable. Instead, I took it to a shop and now the vehicle is out of service. Thanks for showing us this!
Thank you... very informative and well explained.... 💯💯
Thank you for this!! Great video!
Nothing gets past this guy
This video saved my day.
Thanks for your video. I am curious, would this be the same process for the front or back wheel?
Should I weld the Stud? cause in brazil i take to the mechanic, but he did the "eletric weld" while should be the "MIG weld" or i need find one "specefic stud?" and my model is 93 legacy, but the stud got loose when i tryed replace a flat tire
Well done, thank you!
what year and model of a Subaru is this? or are they all the same?
Good job👍😉
Very clear.
12mm bolts?
I’m replacing the wheel studs right now but I figured I don’t have the bolts to pop off the brake disc/calipher, what bolts did you use @1:36 ?
I read that they are M8x1.25 bolts, but haven't tried it yet.
u can hit it with a rubber mallet as well but I may be really stuck frfr
Yes it is M8 8mm Bolts!! Just did it today and they fit even though they dont look like they will
good video.
Just saved my ass man thank you
Great video.. so what do I do if while tightening the new wheel studs they spinning..? 😩😩 I’m using hand tools, ratchet and a socket.!
You need to put pressure on the back of the stud
@@efixes8010 a ma try this rite now, it’s my ATV a quad, not a car. If still spins you think is a good idea adding some welding.? 😂
I liked the part when the Stud went through the hole.
Awesome video. Question: if I'm only replacing one stud, do I really need to disassemble the brake components? It looks like there may be enough room to maneuver as long as I align the broken stud on the right, as shown in the video. Am I missing something?
You gonna damage the rotor. Just dismount two bolts in the back and take off your rotor
I never done it that way, so I don’t know if you gonna damage the rotor. but you could try. Just be careful.
How did you turn the wheel to align it with the cut out.
My 17 Forrester is locked up to the transmission. If i start it and put it in neutral it spins foward and i cant stop it. Like it was in drive
Is the car up in a lift or are you doing it on the ground
If you are doing it in a lift just grab a big screwdriver and turn the studs
If you are doing it on the ground on the shifter there is a little piece that you could take out you are going to need to poke and shift to neutral
Remember don’t press the brakes because if you press them the piston on the calipers might come out
What exact screws did you use to pull out the rotors? Where do you get that from? What size are they?
1x36 bolt
I need to do this on my son's Subaru. Question. Would it make sense to change all of the studs since we have it off, or is it ok to just change the broken one?
If only one is broken, just change one
Great video, does this also work for the rear tires????
Yes but make sure you do not apply the parking brake.
@@efixes8010what happens then
You can’t remove the caliper from the rotor
Does the car have to be in neutral? My wheel hub won’t rotate
No, the car does not need to be neutral but the wheels need to be off the ground
If you do not have a lift you could put it in neutral rotated where you need it and then put it back in park. But make sure you put something in the wheel so they don’t move front or back. If you doing the front one you could put the emergency brake on if you do the rear you need to put something in the front wheels so it doesn’t move
Why I can't spin the studs after I took off the rotor? So I have to get inside the car and switch gear to N? If I let the car on N, the alarm would keep screaming and battery would run out soon.
All tires need to be in the air because of the transmission
@@efixes8010 Thank you.
does this affect wheel alignment
It shouldn’t affect the wheel alignment
How did you remove the 2 17mm from the back of the break caliper?
With the 17 swivel socket
Isn't this bad for the wheel bearing?
No
Size of bolts ??
8mmx1.25 thread pitch
I want that little tool to put the stud on
Look it up in Amazon
Lisle 22800 Wheel Stud Installer
Why do you need to remove the rotor ?
To make it easier
@@efixes8010 I made it easier I took my Forester to repair shop and they replaced 5 lug bolts on left front wheel in about 15 minutes.
Thanks for the video it helped me decide to let someone else do the repairs.
2:35 not cool....
You would have never to resolve to that if you hand start your lugs before torquing the lug nuts. Good that know how to change out the stud.
Mf said Home Depot. 😂😂 I think he means auto zone
You haven't been to home Depot. I bought lisel tools there. I got my Value adjustment tools my ball joint remover from Home Depot