2015-2017 F150: Front Wheel Bearing/Hub Replacement
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- čas přidán 20. 07. 2024
- I was getting a light howl from the left front wheel at slow speeds. When it began to howl at speed with a bit of right steering wheel pressure, I decided it was time to replace the hub. In this video, I replace the left front wheel bearing/hub assembly on a 2016 Ford F150 4x4. It was a pretty straight-forward processes, other than requiring a vacuum pump to retract the 4x4 actuator ring. I hope you find the video useful.
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CHAPTERS
0:00 Disassembly
0:08 Brake Caliper
0:35 Axle Nut Cover
0:39 Electrical Connections
1:22 Axle Nut
1:26 Rotor Removal
1:35 Hub Removal
2:10 Unboxing
2:16 Vacuum Connection
2:47 Install
3:20 Harness Routing
3:37 Operational Check
4:07 Reassembly
4:28 Axle Nut
4:45 Dust Cover
4:56 Brake Hardward
5:25 Final Clean - Jak na to + styl
Doing this job tomorrow. I LOVE the video. This is exactly what informational mechanic videos should be: a few minutes explaining the steps as they're shown, extra bits of information along the way like gotchas, torque specs, and wrench/socket sizes. I don't need a 30 minute video for a 60 minute job, I need a five minute video showing the important shit.
Liked and subscribed.
I used this video today to replace the hub on my 2015 F150. Thanks for a great video! Including all the torque specs was the icing on the cake.
Did u grease the spindles I’m doing the this weekend
Oh shoot, I missed the torque spec for the Caliper bolts.
It’s already been said in the comments here but this is the best mechanical how to video on CZcams. The format is perfect!!! Thank you.
Wow, a clear and perfectly edited video. I wish more youtube videos were like this. I like how you didn't start the video by shouting at the audience lol.
Fantastic video. Instructions were clear and very informative. I appreciate you listing the torque specs for the bolts. This also gave me a reason to buy a vacuum tester!
Hey really good video. I did find I truck to make it easier to install the new hub, instead of using the vacuum pump I just turned the ignition on and the trucks vacuum pulled it in just right. I tested that theory before installing and it worked out great. So if anyone else doesn’t have a vacuum pump just try using your truck.
Thanks! Great tip
Just what I wanted to know about the vacuum. Thank you for the tip.
Thank you for the tip on this. Worked like a charm while installing new hub to turn ignition on to install it without having to mess with any vacuum 👍
I like watching smart people work and hearing them explain it. I also appreciate the extra production work done to condense the video Excellent time saving video.
Doing this in the winter turned into a four hour job. Three and a half to take apart and a half hour to put together. Silly red clip broke on the wiring connector. Also had to use a floor jack on the wrench to loosen the caliper hanger bolts. Then the disk sized to the hub and I had to take them out in one piece to separate. But... It was a great video for reassembling. Works great and sounds great. Thanks!
Great video! Well done. I really like how you put the torque specs in the video. Very nice touch! Thanks
Perfect video, very concise and to the point, love that you list the socket sizes and torque specs as well.
Great work!
Very helpful thankyou. Everything went very well other than getting the speed sensor clip to open up. A little screwdriver lifted the tab and I was good.
Great Video... Really appreciate the tool size and torque spec labels.
Great video and very well explained! I appreciate the F150 series, given that these trucks are moderately new and stumbling across l videos like these are rare; so thank you for continuing to upload and work on your truck 🤠
Thanks man, I appreciate that.
Great video, and I like the talk over to describe your process.
Great video.. The only thing I did different was left the vacuum hose on and just started the truck and let the 4x4 gear retract when I put the hub back in.
Excellent. First video I've seen the mentions the vacuum. Thanks!!
Great video. Made this job a cakewalk for me. Thanks
Outstanding video. Thanks a million, you made it look so simple
Thank you.... very clear and concise! Well done
Great video. My hub bolts were 18mm, not 21, and I found I didn't need vacuum to install, since my vacuum pump quit holding a vacuum on me. Also, the brake caliper bolts (the 21mm ones) have thread locker on them, as well as the 15mm axle nut.
Just thought I would search CZcams for the problem I was hearing on my 2015 F150 4x4 Crew Cab (with only 70K miles!!) and bam!, you had done the video on your 2016. I still can't believe we are already having to replace wheel hubs on these realitively new trucks! Crazy. Very well put together and edited man, nice work. Thank you for the time and effort to video this. As I was expecting this is very similar to other Ford products. I've done Explorer hubs and they are very much the same.
Subscribed man, take care, Clay
whats the sound your hearing? I have a 15 and started getting a "rub"/"grind" at certain speeds or turns, engaged 4wd etc and it didn't change so i am guessing its hub assy but i haven't heard a video with a diagnosis
@@DustinBenton - The sound I hear is almost always while braking and right as the truck comes to a stop. Those last 10-15 feet. It will almost grind like the brake pads are being ground up by a really rough rotor (and I know my brakes are all good). To me it’s coming from the left front wheel.
@@Texasknowhow Mine sounds the same. No play in the wheel as far as i can tell. just grinding sound as it comes down from speed. I can also feel it in the steering wheel. Left front wheel as well. I can really hear it on a smooth road going about 30-40 MPH
@@Texasknowhow You guys ever figure out the diagnosis? My 2017 is the same, last 15 feet or so that grinding rumble like used brake pads. I have the new assemblies here just havent installed them yet.
Rubber brakes lines hoses between calipers and the hard brake lines would be my guess here. I had similar issues with my 2015 that took a while to figure out. Apparently they can break down inside which slows the release of pressure/fluid hence keeping light pressure on your brakes even when not applied.
Thankyou so much I will be doing this tomorrow or this weekend, I sent the video to my buddy so he can watch it and study it to so we know what we doing
Very very useful! What a great video buddy, thanks s million.
I’m doing this now. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the video. Especially having the torque specs.
Excellent job. Thanks for doing this video.
Great video unfortunately saw this after $1275 bill to fix mine, thanks to you and this awesome video I will do the other side myself when it goes bad, Thanks again!
Just got quoted $571. I politely declined.
Hawt damn. Best how to video of all time. Great job.
Now THAT'S the way to make a video!!!!!!
Well this video was timely. My '16 F150 has developed a low speed growl (left front) with only 34K miles. Yep, just out of warranty period. Thanks for posting! I will be tackling this job soon.
Wayne it might be covered under the 60k powertrain warranty? My '16 is at 56k and I just had the IWE's replaced today.
I wonder if Ford has an issue on this driver's side with these... mine was left front as well.... everyone changing this one out vs. the right side (passenger side).... I still can't believe we are having to do this at all at these low mileages... nuts.
Many thanks for the torque specs!
Thank you for the excellent video.
IF YOU DONT HAVE A VACUUM PUMP THEN START THE TRUCK AND THE RING WILL DISENGAGE
My connector isn't detaching so easily. Any advice?
I used a hand vacuum pump ehh it worked you have to make sure it’s at 24psi
Best video in CZcams , thanks.
Absolutely fantastic video
this is great. I am having grinding noises and not sure if its just the IWE or the Hub or both. Will do some testing this weekend but this video makes it totally doable! thank you!
Grinding noises after replacement? I’m having the same issue
Getting the same grinding noise at slow speeds. You ever find out the problem?
Thank You for the video, saves me over $1000 from the dealership.
Helped me today. Thank you!
Good video, I Was wondering If I can do this myself. No more difficult than a break job.
The video is flawless man👍🏻
Thank you!!! Amazing video!!
Very good video. Thank You.
Great content for folks dude
great video, thank you!
I didn't know you could avoid removing the axle and rear IWE.
Will try this when my parts come.
Looks like a simpler job than I thought.
Holy crap! My repair shop quoted me $2200 to replace my hub. Luckily I was still under warranty.
Exceptional video
My shop wants $1600 to do this. I almost choked holding back my laugh.
I just received the same dealer $1600 quote. So glad I did this search. Outstanding video! Jack you have some skills. Thx for posting this!
Yes. With vacuum the gears disengage. But the video shows the gears engaging
Thank you SOOOOO much for this video. You saved me hundreds of dollars I don't have to support a dealer's profit center.
You have the best video out there on this in my opinion. Subscribed.
Pros: size of socket and torque specs listed, video sped up where applicable (brake parts removal), made something hard seem as easy as it really is
Cons: didn't show how to detach ABS cable from fitting in engine compartment. I spent another half hour googling this with no success and pried them off with a flathead screwdriver.
My tip: don't waste half an hour trying to get the brake rotors off - save yourself some time and leave the rotor rusted onto the wheel hub since you're going to replace them both anyway, right? And replace the wheel hubs for both sides - they probably both need it. My driver's side was groaning something awful and had slightly damaged the CV axle, but the silent passenger side with the warped rotor actually had more leaked grease all over. Vacuum pump probably not needed - just wiggle the CV axle up and down a little while pushing the IWE gear to get check the gear retraction isn't physically impeded, and rotationally wiggle the new wheel hub before bolting it down to make sure that it engages the CV axle. Then once all together activate the 4 High switch while driving and listen for engagement, then switch back to 2WD. At least that's what I did, and it worked.
Another tip of mine - pressure wash carefully the area around the wheel hub the day before. I didn't, had a bunch of caked on dried mud that fell into the CV axle / wheel hub area upon removal, wasting a lot of time "sterilizing" the area of sand and dirt before reassembly.
If the cap is loose with the new hub you can use a ball peen hammer ( the round end ) to enlarge it to fit snug like it should be . Thanks for the video !…….
Fyi: vacuum not really needed. Put on - turn and it aligns. Bolt on..
Good call
I just did this last night on my 4x4 without touching the vacuum lines and everything seems fine..... 🤞
Thank you
Thanks bro
Nice!!! TY.
Just an FYI, the Ford tech from the FordTechMakuloco channel said the discoloration on the shaft of the CV axle is normal and not an indicator of a failing hub assembly. He said that even brand new ones have that bluing discoloration. I would have thought the same thing you did tho.
Thanks for sharing that, good to know.
Thanks for that well explained video! Do the Caliper slide pins get relubed too when you put em back in? Thanks again! Cheers from Motown/Dearborn!
This would be a great idea, and convenient opportunity to lube the pins!
What happens if you missed doing the vacuum part or turning truck on? The new hub went on without any issues. It now makes a ding noise though everytime it rotates. Any idea what it could be?
I have this issue on my 2013 f150. Passenger side IWE does not disengage. Vacuum signal seems to be ok. Although I have no way to accurately test it, However testing it with the tip of my finger it feels pretty much the same as drivers side, which disengages ok, I thought of a faulty IWE, Replaced it and still is not disengaging. Any suggestion of what could be going wrong. Its like I am driving on 3 wheel drive all the time, Could this be due to a misplaced wheel bearing?
My is making noise really bad in the driver side tire and it feels like it there’s something mowing inside mechanic it says is the axle but honestly I don’t think is the axle because like I said it feels like something mowing inside of the Bering I don’t think axle is going to make that much noise do you think it could be the hub Bering or the axle I will appreciate yo help and thank you for the video
Very good video really enjoyed it. I noticed in the video you use the Motorcraft HUB-393 but in the link you have the MotorbyMotor p/n. Have you used both and like one over the other?
I like to use OEM parts for CZcams videos because people throw fits if they see me use aftermarket :-) However, I wouldn't hesitate to use the hub in the link as it's half the price as the motorcraft one. Another consideration is the motorcraft one only had 90k on it before it needed replaced. RockAuto.com sells motorcraft and several other brands, great place to buy parts online. Thanks for watching
My OEM had 110K. I like RockAuto as well. Thank you.
would this also fix a c0030 fault code ?
My truck is a 2x4, so I assume everything is the same minus the need for a vacuum pump?
Did you have a little play after putting all new on
Do you need an alignment after doing this?
Very informative. Is an alignment required after this install?
Thanks for watching, good question. No alignment necessary. No suspension components altered in this process.
MasterJacks, great. Thanks for the reply.
Great Vid. Just replaced my drivers side hub assembly with help from this video. The growl sound at low speeds is gone but I still have a heavy oscillating ("wub wub") sound when turning to the left. Any idea what that could be?
cstam105 have same promblem on my f150...
Did you find out what was causing the wub noise
@@sulduran1 Did you ever find out what this was? I have the same problem
Same problem here!! Any ideas? I'm thinking the vacuum hub. Thats the next easiest thing. Any info is appreciated!!
Hey guys - apologies for the (very) late reply. The problem was the other front hub assembly they both needed replaced
This video is a bit old so not sure if you still monitor the comments, but thought I'd try. I've got a 2014 F150 and have had a grind/howl issue on both sides - currently a problem on left side especially at low speed when turning right and only in 2WD. This is the first video I've seen the hub/bearing replacement (great vid BTW!), but have seen several looking at the IWE side of the equation. Pretty sure my issue is with the IWE/4WD actuator and vacuum equipment, but would there be a way to rule out the hub/bearing? Would hate to replace the IWE, only to find out after that it was the hub that needed replacing.
My bet is on wheel bearings, probably both sides (with one worse than the other). The bearings carry the vehicle load. Turning, changing speed, shifting in/out of 4WD all vary the load and can effect the noise. Best of luck, I'd be curious what you find out. Thanks for watching.
Great video. When you put the new bearing in, do you need to add any light grease to the inside before bolting down? I didn't see it in the video. I know these are sealed bearings as well. Just curious about extra grease on those gears.
As far as I know, no additional grease on the gears. What was there was from the previous bearing's failure.
@@MasterJacks Thanks. The FSM doesn't mention adding any grease either but there are some videos on youtube showing them adding a light coating of grease before installation. I wasn't sure if mechanics already know that you should add grease or if the FSM would explicitly say to add grease.
@@ifoam I think if it was critical, Ford would definitely include it. However, adding a little grease might do the 4x4 engagement ring some good. Don't know that it's a big deal, but can't hurt. I appreciate the comment and conversation!
@@MasterJacks Hey! I replaced my bearing yesterday. My truck didn't fall apart today so I think I did well. Thanks for the video it gave me the confidence I needed. The hardest part for me was unclipping the ABS harness. I could not figure it out.
Another issue I had was that the 4x4 actuator didn't retract all the way back into the hub. I needed to straighten the axle by hand for it to retract all the way in. Otherwise, it retracted at the top but not at the bottom.
@@ifoam glad it turned out good!
GREAT VIDEO! I followed your instructions perfectly except....when I attached my vacuum pump the 4x4x ring only retracted a little bit and it was cockeyed, one side going in and the other not. When I grab hold of the main bolt the whole unit jiggles and I can push the actuator ring in but not all the way...there is a lot of play when I grab hold of the main bolt, in fact, I can push it backwards and pull it forwards and the whole internal unit moves back and forth...is that normal? is that inside unit with the 4x4 actuator ring supposed to be tightly fitted in there?
I'm having a hard time visualizing what's going on, but I think you're referring to the axle shaft when you say bolt. The axle shaft assembly will have movement without the hub and nut attached. The actuator ring doesn't necessarily have to fully retract to seat the hub. I'd install the hub then use the vacuum pump to see if it appropriately locks/unlocks the axle from the hub for 4x4 operation. Hope that helps, best of luck!
@@MasterJacks Thank you. After watching other videos I'm a little concerned that I need to replace the vacuum hub also, the inner part that contains the actuator ring. I went ahead and ordered one - $125, figured after purchasing the hub assembly it can't hurt to go ahead and replace that unit also.
I have a 2012 F150 and noticed my front driver side rotor/hub gets very hot compared to the other wheels. I replaced caliper, brake pads, and rubber hose. I thought that was going to fix the overheating but no luck. The rotor is also new and doesn’t wobble steering wheel when I brake. The brakes are working well. I’m just confused on why it’s still getting hotter than other wheels.
I did notice there was a slight click on the hub when spin the wheel while on stands. Do you think that might need to be replaced? Or is making the rotor overheat?
Thanks,
You wheel bearing has failed. Get a manual for your vehicle and follow it. Get qality parts, NAPA comes to mind.
Great video, just one question
What is the torque on the cv axle nut?
30 ft lbs
Hey I know this an older video but hopefully you see this, I just watched your video and did a new hub on my 2015 f150, I did everything in your video and it went good, when I went to test drive it it was humming at low speeds so I flipped it in 4wd and back out and it went away until I got tell about 60mph, then I started humming again but not as bad, I am wondering what I would of did wrong
Sounds like you may not have enough vacuum to overcome the springs in the iwe. Buy a cheap vacuum gauge and check it. There is also a check valve on this system that fails that causes the vacuum to drop when vacuum on the engine drops which causes your hubs to come out of 2wd. Hope this helps.
great video!!! will this work on a 2018 4WD?
Yes, it's the same setup and procedure
Is it best to replace both sides together? Or just when they (one) needs it? Thanks guys!!
Not necessarily. If you were somehow saving on parts or labor by doing them together, it would merit doing them both. But because there is no overlap, and the one side doesn't affect the working of the other, I wouldn't bother until a problem presents itself.
Wheel bearing already?
With vacuum the gears retract
Turn the truck on to build Vacuum. No tool needed
Great Video question did you do both hubs?
Just did the one.
Would this be the same steps for 2015 4x4 eco? Need to know I will be doing this tomorrow!!
Yep, it'll be the same.
I am not seeing exactly what 2 points you are measuring to get the 16.9 mm. (minimum 15.5). Are you using the end of the caliper to measure from the end of the axle bolt to the bearing face? Thank you!
@@dk3323 thanks for watching. That's correct. Measure from the cv shaft threaded end to the inner bearing race (the first flat surface at the base of the shaft). If it's less than 15.5, you want to wiggle and rotate the cv shaft to clear any binding of the splines.
If you don’t have a hand vac pump, any problem using remote start and letting the engine vac retract the hub?
No, that works great.
Did your abs and traction control lights come on? Mine did about a week ago on my 2018 with 85k miles. And now I’m getting wheel bearing noise.
Mine didn't, but the speed sensor is built into the hub, so it's not surprising if you are. I'd pull the codes and see if it your getting a speed sensor code from the same place you're hearing the noise.
The traction control lights might be from your throttle body, my 2015 did the same thing.
what grease would you use for the hub replacement if you were to use it?
The only grease called for in the replacement of the hub or IWE (integrated wheel end) is light lubrication to the splines of the engagement ring. Any automotive general purpose grease will do.
Where are you located
Also do you add any grease to the wheel bearing beside what came on it?
Nope, it's a sealed bearing so no added grease.
Just turn your key on for the air vacuum
Remove the whole bracket you don’t need to take the caliper apart makes no sense unless you are doing brakes too. Otherwise great video thanks
The sad thing is this truck needed bearings (like mine does) so soon...
No grease required? I would of thought you would fill that hub with grease while you had access?
The hub itself is a sealed bearing. The procedure doesn't call for any grease. It wouldn't hurt anything to add a little grease for the 4x4 actuator ring, but it won't do anything for the bearing.
Question. If your front driver side wheel bearing replaced and you still have some noise. What should you look for?
I would look for irregular tire wear. Rotate the tire to another spot on the vehicle and see if the sound moves. If the noise doesn't move, could be an inner wheel end (IWE), or a front differential bearing. This guy went through a few things before he found his problem:
www.f150forum.com/f118/2016-5-0-front-end-iwe-grinding-noise-solved-446802/
@@MasterJacks ok thanks. But my truck has new tires. The are off road but they didn’t make that much noise until the first wheel bearing went bad. Then it was quite again until a month later and then the drivers side wheel bearing went out. If I new it was this easy I would have Don it myself lol
What extra steps would need to be taken to remove the CV axle
You'd need to disconnect the lower ball joint from the spindle and the tie rod end. That should allow you to pull out on the spindle to free up the outer end, then use a pry bar to pop the other end of the axle out of the differential. It's not too bad. You may not find a video of your exact year, but the process is pretty universal. Thanks for watching, sorry for the slow response.
Wait, so that little bit of blue on the axle shaft tells you the bearing is bad? Is there any other signs? Mine has said blueing.
From other comments, I guess bluing is sometimes seen on brand new shafts. The most common sign is bearing noise that changes with speed and/or turning force.
@@MasterJacks Gotcha. Mine shows no other signs of going bad, runs smooth, no slop etc. I’ll assume it ok for now.
Is this only on the drivers front side or is this also done on the other side?
There's a hub on both sides, and the procedure is the same. You don't have to do them both, just the one that's bad.
No grease on the new hub bearings??
It's a sealed bearing and the actuator ring calls for no grease. Thanks for watching.
Lock tight on the Caliper mount bolts?
I personally wouldn't. They are hard enough to get off with the water and road grime exposure.
Oh. That is retracted. It engages the hub side for 4wd
Was there no grease before installing bearing?
Good question, it's a sealed bearing. So no grease.
If you don’t have a vacume pump can you just start the truck use it’s vacuums
Yes
?? When I look up the Front bearing hub part the last letter changes from a-b-c-d-e-f-g-h ...not really important?
I would think so, probably just a superseding part number across years and suppliers. If you buy on Amazon you can confirm the fit with their vehicle selection tool.
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