"Don't compress the spring" that's what I needed to know! 5-7 tutorials on hydro shovel lifters and this is the first time someone has specified weather the spring should be compressed before the thread count begins.
I don't understand, it has to be the spring compressed, some kind of preload!? Doesn't mean you're going to open a valve previous, that's sound kind of wrong, help me Mike.
Mike, really appreciate your concise teaching here. Quad seal you refer to is a cork seal with four sides? Also my bike is a stock 1981 FLH 80 with SS carb. I ordered new hydraulic lifters for it. My buddy and I suspect It has one lifter out of adjustment from wear and tear. Slightly noisy. He rides a stock 1983 Low Rider 80. He says his service manual covers mine too. He suggested I check my lifter adjustment till new hydraulic lifters arrive. My previous 1983 Ironhead, was a cinch in adjusting the solid lifters. Do you have access to the specs for my stock 81 FLH 80? The 4 turns I understand yet may be different acccording to the year model engine size? I was wondering if it is 4 turns too should I do 2 turns first to wait for push rod to turn freely vs 4 turns (24 flats)? Really appreciated your help with seat post adjustment and your well detailed easy to understand teaching.
As always, another "idiot proof" step by step, soup to nuts well produced vid! No ambiguity, no presumption of viewer knowledge, yet no talking to us like imbeciles either. Not only "how to", but also the all important "why do" which most vids lack. Mike and friends, you done nailed another one! The thread pitch caution alone demonstrates the superiority of your effort. I would quite honestly recommend your series to anybody considering turning wrenches on a hog, irregardless of their skill level or experience
Pacific Mike I just watched your video on adjusting the lifters on a hydraulics on my shovelhead I want to thank you for being the speed that you take care of your business is very important because you get the message across to people and I just want to say thank you getting ready to put my shovel motor back together and that was very helpful thank you
Thanks Mike , for all your videos/knowledge , pretty decent mechanic myself & you have helped me perfect a lot of my skills when i wasn't exactly sure , 1964 bottom, 1966 top , 1967 transmission, 1957 ridged frame , partial list of my ride, Thanks Again & MERRY CHRISTMAS !
Merry Christmas and thank you for watching our videos. Great oldtime combination of well picked components. Strong lower end, strongest of the stock rigid frames (prettiest too) and the flow characteristics of an early Shovel.
Mike, you sure do help us all with these very well thought out videos. Thank you so much! The way you explain the procedures and possible hazards of building these bikes and motors, is almost soothing as well as putting comfort in the average guys "do it himself"
Jeez, wish their was an interweb and you had a channel 30 years ago. The short cuts and real world info you have displayed, would have been so good. But at the least you have made my current shovelhead build so much clearer 👌
I'm taking the top end off of my shovelhead for machining. Your videos have been essential to me. I couldn't get the push rods off until I watched this. Thank you!!
Mike, I want to ride my shovel across country and come out to your place and work on it with you. Couldn’t be happier I found your videos. Your like the Bob Ross of motorcycles.
Mike: I watch every video that you produce and have learned a lot. As a machinist and mechanic I could talk for about an hour on the subject of hydraulic lifters. I sat down and studied my Panhead pushrods in depth and came up with a "horse shoe" lifter gauge that slips on top of the lifter with a step that mimics 3 and 4 turns. No counting flats. Something else I did was I noticed how the front exhaust extends the adjuster really far so I took a shovel head pushrod which is longer and swapped the upper ball end for a Panhead one. -'lil stan
My computer is really acting up today. The valvetrain geometry for Harley Panheads, Shovelheads and Evos is just plain bad. There are so many solutions, each one created by someone doing some great thinking. That front exhaust pushrod is extended so much further and has quite an angle at the contact point. Major stress. Several of the "hot rodder" guys out there have made setups that took the pushrods much deeper into the lifters, thereby lessening that angle. Velva Touch does that. There was a solid lifter setup with long pushrods that went clear to the bottom of the lifter body. Harley made a similar tool to yours (I think they made it about 1981, not sure). Keep going. you may cure all of the inherent ailments in time.
Thank you Mr. Mike I'm putting my 1982 80" shovelhead engine top end back together today just got my heads rebuilt and brand new OEM jugs and pistons back yesterday your videos are the best I have ever watched. LnR
Great video Mike. I really appreciate the info. Cleaning up my 84 FLH and got to the point in reassembly of needing to adjust the lifter. I bought a Climers manual and didn't quit understand their method so I watched your video. Your trick of bleeding the oil out of the lifter was what I needed. Thanks again. Mike.
Thanks MIKE ! Great explanation of Hydraulic Roller Lifters for ShovelHead ENGINES & The various ways a ROOKIE could get him/her SELF into trouble Thanks again for the CALM & detailed INSTRUCTIONS COOP ..........................................
Hey Mike I was wondering if I could get your email address to send a pic of a bolt on my hubbys motorcycle handle bar we spent 5 hours and tried every tool in his shop to get this bolt off and nothing I wanted to see if you knew what kind of bolt it is? Im not sure how to post the pic on CZcams thanks
I'm in the process of starting to go through a '76 FLH. These videos are helpful for the little old timer tricks the manual doesn't cover. Any tips for rebuilding the E77-earlier front ends? Maybe a video in the future?
We do these things as they come up. When it comes up, we'll be glad to do it. However, if the bushings in the lower legs are worn out, it takes special equipment to install them and ream them to size.
@@pacificmike9501 today I just had a recurrence of the front exhaust lifter tapping. It went away after ten minutes and ran nice and quiet. I've examined the lifters and they look very good, no scoring, low miles apparently. Do I need to have a tighter adjustment on that front exhaust lifter? Would it be a "bad"lifter? What do you think of the conversion sets to newer hydraulic lifters?
The front exhaust lifter is the most stressed. It gets it's oil last and the pushrod is at the sharpest angle. Perhaps the oil passage needs to be blown clear of debris. Be sure the tappet screen is clean. Maybe the lifter has to be cleaned. Newer hydraulic lifters are better than the originals, but the problem should be found first.
Need to add this: Removing the cam cover and lifter blocks will allow you to blow out the passages with compressed air from the hole in the crankcase up through the lifter block passages. When reinstalling the original lifters, be sure the holes in the lifters face inward, toward themselves.
That was a really good video. First time I ever seen a video of someone doing it and it was very well explained with great camara work. Awesome being able to rewind so it all sinks in. I would like to add to anyone that if they get a new cam, they need to change those rollers or they need to get new lifters with new rollers on them and have the lifter block fitted to them down at the machine shop. My experience is the old lifters on a new cam will eat them selves up in not too long and possibly send metal through the engine. Also, if you use the teflon oring's on the rocker box's and pushrod tubes, they will never leak again. I think they are getting harder to find though.
Boy, I am sure glad you mentioned the threads 1/4-24 and 1/4-20 on the block bolts. I have never seen fine threads in aluminum alloy and may have missed it. Thanks!
American stuff is usually 1/4-20 in aluminum. 1/4-28 is fine thread, usually what the British used in cast iron. Then, we have Harley's 1/4-24, used up until about 1972. Anrique Fords used it once in a while too.
Very interesting, and scrolling through your thumbnails I see you on there where you were spoken up arim. In 1979 I worked in the bicycle store and that's where I learned have lace-up Wheels
Hey Mike, I finished the 72 FX. I appreciate all of your help and you were right the wiring wasn’t as much of a project as I had thought it would be. I have photos if you’d like to see. It turns out we have a mutual friend - he told me to mention the Pony Express. Thanks again for the great videos and support! Mike C.
Very cool. Thank you. Sure, send pictures. And, your friend? He forgot, that was "PUNY" Express. Tell him "Hello." And, I still have her. Who is this guy?
Hi mike , my bigdog oil pressure is fine . About 14 psi at idle and 35 to 38 at 2000 . So the only thing left is to do the lifters. There is oil being returned to the tank so the oil pump is fine.
Cool. You know, the way the plunger in the "tower" on the oil pump works, it sends oil to the top end until the oil pressure reaches a certain level, then it splits due to the position of that plunger and the oil pressure drops because it is following two paths, one to the top end and one to the bottom end. I hope your engine doesn't have some sort of blockage, starving the top end.
I realise that this is an older video and I actually found it looking for how to remove and install the camshaft anyway thank you very much for your help it looks simple enough but still I am a mechanic not a bike mechanic and I had no idea how to do the tappets on a Shovel and my engine is S&S but I couldn't find a mechanic that would do a valve adjustment and I guess it is a bit time consuming and a mistake could cause some serious damage so thank you for your time and patience Cheers.
Very cool. When putting a different, high performance cam into an Evo, adjustable pushrods must be used. The stock pushros, for an Evo are non-adjustable.
Pacific Mike, I just today stumbled across your channel and after watching this video immediately subscribed. I was a heavy line mechanic for 1 of the major car manufacturers for over 20 years and owned a speed shop specializing in vehicles for the SCCA and custom built street cars (sleepers). I recently purchased a 73 Shovelhead that was torn down in the fall of 73 to be stroked and upgraded with all S&S conversion parts to a 96 cu/in engine however this entire project set in the basement until approximately 2008 because of life's circumstances and basically not knowing what he'd gotten himself into with no mechanical knowledge. The bike and all of the original and upgrade parts were bought by his brother in law and shipped from Illinois to Texas. Personally I wish that everything would've still been in pieces for me to assemble so that I would have known what cam, compression pistons, been able to CC the heads etc. but for everything that came with the bike plus some of the additional parts ie... Wagner front and rear disc brakes, electric start, 2000 & beyond electronic ignition and under 3500 original miles the price was right. The bike was put together by an old timer with a shop that works on nothing newer than the late 80's whose been around for years in the same spot with a warehouse of older bikes and hard to find parts lying around. My plan is to take the engine off and go back through it myself just to know what's inside of it to know where I can go from here with it. My question is do you have a series of videos on these older Shovelhead motors? I have 1 of the original Harley Davidson parts and repair manuals for schematics and wiring diagrams. I'm not trying to make it original but to me like any of us that ride usually want them anyway. It would just be nice to be able to watch more of your videos on these engines and the tricks you've learned along the way.
There's loads of Shovelhead stuff here. Go to CZcams. Type in Pacific Mike. There is a home page. Type in what you're looking for when you're on CZcams and loads will come up. Thank You.
This and Engels coach building are my current "relax and forget Covid-19" channels. It is tough in south Africa with the draconian lockdown rules, eg we may walk along the beach front sidewalk, but get arrested if we walk on the sand... Nice smile at the end there, Mike!
This is with a stock camshaft. I did it this way but had a 450' lift camshaft,. 2 burned exhaust valves. Al things sorted right now. I had the cylinder + heads have a full service at super cycles in the Netherlands. So now gonna adjust the lifters 3 full turns (24tpi) Instead of 4 full turns. A learning proces.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks again! The cyl.heads are from 1979. The guy from the shop has checked it all. So I have to trust to it. Thanks for your learning video's.✌️👍
Hey Mike... It seams that the Clymer manual explains it different.. My bike is a 71 FLH with hydrolic lifters.. It basically says to tighten them down till it just seats then back out 1 3/4 turns.. of course when lifter is on heal of cam.. Just got it running and need to change the push rod o rings because they are leaking a lot.. Thanks.... Great vids....
@@pacificmike9501 well the thing is i am not sure i trust the clymer book... I really was wondering if the way they explain it and the way you demonstrated it are basically the same to achieve the desired end... just from different directions.. Sometimes the book seems vague and leaves me a little confused... And my bike is a 71 not a 79 like yours.. I really appreciate your videos and respect your knowledge.. Thanks
@@pacificmike9501 your a good man your replying to something you did a couple of years ago I learing so much from your vids thanks Keep your knees in the Breeze
What is so nice about your videos is you actually use tools no electric screwdrivers electric ratchet’s and all that bullshit old school all the way excellent job
I've shown installing lifters. I've shown adjusting solids. Go to our homepage. Just type in pacific mike. Click on the knucklehead motor and it will come up. Then, click on the word "videos" and about 340 of them will come up with pictures and descriptions.
Hey Mike, great stuff, I like the way you work and explain the things. Well my question referring the adjustment of the push rods on my 76 FLH Shovel: What is exactly the correct position of the engine and the valves to do these 24 moves? I appreciate your tips. Ride on Dude! Sam from Switzerland 😃👍🏽
Remove the spark plugs. Rotate the engine with the front lifters exposed. When the front intake valve lifter goes down, it is closing. When it's all the way down, adjust the pushrod. Wait for the lifter to bleed out its oil. Check to see that the front exhaust lifter is at its very bottom. Now adjust that pushrod and make sure it bleeds down before rotating to do the rear valves.
Different videos of this. You make 4 turns down on push rods and other push the pusk rod completely down to bottom and 1 1/2 turn up? Both are the same? Thank you for all the videos you have made. Regards from wideglide 83 model in Norway 🎉
Their are different year service manuals and one guy approached trhe operation one way, and another guy approached it another way. All of the Shovelheads came with the same solid lifters. So, you are correct, different way to get to the same measurement.
Early Evos used cast iron lifter blocks. Shovelheads use cast iron lifter blocks. Later stuff had aluminum lifter blocks. Most aftermarket lifter blocks are aluminum. Some are cast iron. Is yours stock? Are you using the original lifter blocks? What does your service manual, or supplier's instructions, say?
C'mon now. My favorite old hardware store has brand new wooden clothes pins. The guy at the counter said, "Getting those for your potato chips, Mike?" I said, "No. They're for my Harley."
I have a 1973 it’s 1-4-24 tpi and i believe that they changed when you see the flat bottom lifter bolts if they have a angle they are 1/4/24 flat 1/4/20 first year for end oilers to
Not sure. Those 12 point lifter block bolts can be had in both thread pitches. And, stuff get mixed and matched and changed. It's important to look at each 1/4 " bolt on Harleys from the mid-70's back. Remember, this wasn't just lifter blocks. It was cam covers and primaries, and distributors and tranny lids, probably stuff I don't even remember. So, I look at all of them when I pull them. And I keep repair inserts around for everything I use. And, I believe you're correct about end oiler pinion shafts. But, again, dealing with alot of changes, I just wait and be surprised, but be aware it has to all work together. And the learning goes on forever.
Pacific Mike I have been turning wrenches for 50 years and I agree with you that you can always learn something I remember the shovel and I think you should have a keen eye with the parts or motor you have to work on. I know when the end oilers came out and I have Never seen a 12 point flat bottom lifter screw that came with 1/4-24 threads. And if it’s got a 60 degree included angel it’s a 1/4-24 thread I have learned a few things that you are very good about explaining what you are doing. Just another way around the tree and I have to say I love the mouse trap video but when you said a 73 shovel has 1/4-20 thread I don’t think you are wrong I know you are wrong. I have a great 73 I have owned it since 91 it was a very low mileage and with good reason. The clutch didn’t work and upon inspection I found the person who didn’t need a job at the factory had screwed the clutch hub on cocked and they had to hold it like that. And I know that when a bike that year and for the life of shovel heads were a lot of problems. I have never had anyone but me work on my Motorcycle’s and I started with a 1947 Indian chief Roadmaster a blue one.
Okay, I'm sure you're correct. I don't carry everything in my head when it's written in books. However, if you look in aftermarket catalogues and find replacement lifter blocks, you will find 12 pt screws with both 24 and 20 tpi. This is so the lifter blocks can be interchanged. The sort of thing I always look for as a matter of habit. Not worth arguing over. But, when working on other people's bikes, you really don't know what you'll find until you're there. I've been subjected to alot of mix and match stuff, and had to figure it out. I remember long nights with every year service manual that could possibly apply just to figure out an oil pump on aftermarket cases with mix and matched parts. I've turned wrenches all my life and, like I said, the learning goes on forever and I still learn from other guys. I'm sure I could learn stuff from you. I learned alot from my '52 80 inch Chief. I learned a lot back in '69, when I built my '58 Sportster. Hopefully, it goes on forever. Today, I'll work on my '77 Shovel, I bought new in '78. Keep enjoying your Shovel. They are grand.
Remove the sparplugs and rotate the engine by hand. Watch the lifters rise and fall. Exhaust up and down, then intakle up and down (in just that order). When the intake goes down, the exhaust is already down. Now both pushrods and lifters are down with both valves being closed. Rock the engine a little back and forth before adjusting each one to be sure, individually that the lifters are bottomed.
Mike Great video can you provide a link to the video that shows how to find bottom of the stroke for each jug. I'm not using a mew motor I'm adjusting push rods after putting the heads back onto my 84 shovel and I'm just rotating the motor by turning the rear wheel.
When adjusting valves, you want the lifters at the bottom of their stroke and the piston at the top of its compression stroke. With the spark plugs and pushrods out, rotate the engine until you see the lifters drop. First the exhaust, then the intake. When the intake is as low as it's going to get, the piston is up. You can move that rear wheel a little now, with your finger on a lifter to make sure it's down all the way. You're only working on one cylinder at a time, and after adjusting the pushrods in that cylinder, NEVER ROTATE THE MOTOR UNTIL BOTH OF THOSE HYDRAULIC LIFTERS HAVE BLED DOWN. After the lifters have bled down, and the pushrods can easily be rotated with your fingers, the motor can be rotated to install and adjust the pushrods in the next cylinder.
@@pacificmike9501 Would I not first adjust the pushrod for the intake of one cylinder then with the motor in the same position do the exhaust in the second cylinder then rotate the motor with the wheel and then do the next two exhaust and intakes, I believe I know how to watch the lifter to dind TDC but could you provide a link to your video on how to do this. I'm using a S&S video now but much prefer yours
Mike, just to revisit the push rod adjustment. On dry adjustment, there seems to be another method. Some people's method is different. "Adjust the push rod until the push rod collapses completely than adjust it upwards 1 1/2 turns". I surmise that which ever method you use. you arrive at the correct adjustment. Not sure if one method is better or just a matter of choice and experience? This is probably a dumb question, but measuring the lifter at it's compressed and relaxed position and knowing TPI of the push rod, 1 1/2 turn out or 4 turns in, the overall dimension should be the same??? Excuse my reasoning, early in the morning and too much coffee. Thks
The manufacturer of the lifters and pushrods makes their recommendations based on the distance required to get the lifter at the proper length for their design. So, the TPI is a very important factor. How far do they want their lifter collapsed? Okay, based on the TPI, we would then know how many revolutions of pushrod adjuster would be required.
So I’m reading my manual and it says 11/2 turns up from lifter completely collapsed if dry or 4 down if full of oil. I tried both on rear exhaust dry, after four turns down or 24 flats it puts me at 3 full turns to fully collapse the lifter this a Haynes manual telling me this. So I don’t the lifter is in the same place
I am having an oil leak on my front lifter block. This is a 1967 FLH. I removed and replaced with a factory gasket and I still have oil leaking once I get it good and hot. Everything looks good. Do you have any ideas where I could solve this issue. Thanks. I enjoy all your videos.
First, be sure it's the lifter block. Other things have been known to happen there. Clean and dry the crankcase around the lifter block. The place to check is the crankcase under the cylinder. The vertical surface is what I'm wondering. If that's not leaking, it just isn't bad. Make sure the lifter block is not cracked. Make sure the oil is going through the lifter bock and not getting stopped somewhere. Now, if everything else is fine, get a nice thick paper lifter block gasket, spray it with coppercoat, and bolt it down. If it still leaks, this will take further investigation.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you for the prompt reply. I will take apart again and will do thorough inspection of base of cylinder/case. That factory gasket was paper thin. I will make a point of seeing how flat the two surfaces are. Thanks for the help. Very appreciated. Chuck.
This may be a dumb question but, when adjusting the pushrod in a lifter full of oil if you wait say 20 30 minutes and you still can’t turn the pushrod can you then adjust it to where it will turn and then move on since it has bled out or should you loosen it up turn the motor over and start again? Thanks for the videos they are very informative and enjoyable to watch. I’m a novice and I’m trying to keep an old shovel on the road the best I can.
It will eventually bleed down. Be patient. If it never happens, I'd say that lifter is "seized" for some reason, and find out why. Removal and inspection, possibly even disassembly. But, don't turn the motor over until the lifter allows the pushrod to turn. And, "good question."
Frills don't do it for me. If the original part is beautiful, I use the original part. If not, I come up with something I feel is better. I believe that a motorcycle is most beautiful at about 70mph. But, Thank You.
Most of the suppliers carry at least two or three brands. I find all of them to be adequate. After trying them, you'll find your own personal preferences. Thank you for the kind compliment.
I'm sorry, due to terms and conditions, I can't push brands. Cometic, James, and several others are all good. Try them and you'll pick your own favorites.
Hi Mike, just found your channel and love it...subscribed immediately! Your calm and calculated speech makes it a pure joy to listen to and watch. I'm in my 60's, never owned a Harley, but fell in love with the very first Sturgis 1340 Shovel to arrive in Oz (yes, I'm an Aussie), after I had the privilege of taking it out for a little spin (wooden brakes and all)! I now live in Armenia (Eastern Europe) and would love to get my hands on a late 70's/early 80's, naked style FLH. I'm not into speed, but appreciate quality built, solid, reliable machines. Do you build bikes for customers? If so, would you recommend an FLH frame, with a 74" or 80" or an aftermarket engine such as S&S? All the best to you and keep up the good work. Regards, Mitch
I keep finding comments from back a ways. My apologies. I'm retired. I do stuff for myself and occasionally, a friend in need. All those questions have to be answered, "Your build, your choices." Thanx again.
Yes, in a "Hydraulic" lifter. After making this adjustment, you need to wait for the lifter to "bleed down." It is full of oil, and after adjusting the pushrod, the valve is being held open until the oil in the lifter drains or "bleeds" out. Now the engine can be rotated to adjust the next valve. Don't forget this step or damage can occur.
Are the bolts holding your heads together 12pt socket?. I got a pair of heads with the same bolts & hadn’t seen them often/wondered why they are used. Thanks for the video..I like your methodical preparation & explanations...you could’ve been a Doctor!! Dr. Flat? Dr. Knuckle Dr.Pan? Dr. Shovel? 😂 Dr. Big Twin? You choose....either way you’re Dr. Mike (P-HD)-Pacific Harley Davidson...0R....(MD) Mechanical Dr.👍
Thank You. The twelve point head bolts are actually a kit made for installing fat cylinders (bigger bore). They're made with those twelve point heads because they leave more room for a wrench. They're much nicer to install and remove.
Mr Mike your videos are all excellent thanks a lot for the info. I just have a question about the process of installing the lifters. When we install new lifters do we need to fill them internally with oil or do we install them dry as is? Thank you!
They usually come with oil in them. When you install them, always allow them to bleed down before rotating the engine. When I'm all done, and the plugs are still out, I spin the engine over to fill the lifters with oil before starting it. Do this carefully. Don't heat that starter up. When the lifters are quiet, then put the plugs in and start it.
Thank you. I think Harley built a pretty motor. This one is just detailed; painted cylinders and lifter blocks, polished rocker boxes and cam cover, polished exposed side of oil pump, and new chrome hardware that is accurate reproduction of the original.
when installing the lifter block, you use the 'tools' that appear to just be bolts. How is their use beneficial vs just starting to bolt the block in place since there isn't any adjustment on the lifter block, it's just 4 holes.
Not a bad idea. However, there are different lifters and pushrods from several different manufacturers with different spacing. Fabricating a double ended wrench for your own setup would be cool.
Thanks. We all approach things in a way that pleases us as individuals. That's what makes a motorcycle "custom." I built my Shovel for me. It's not a drag bike. It's a longwinded roadbike.
Thanks for the videos. Great job - you’re an excellent teacher. They have been very useful, especially if you watch them before you start the repair! A good story - I was able to track down and purchase my first Harley (actual Bike) a 1972 Super Glide FX that I’m restoring to original. Your videos have been extremely y helpful with that and with working on my 1980 Sturgis. I am in the middle of restoring the FX and although a 72 FX with no turn signals and a kick start only, is probably one of the easiest bikes to wire, it is the step I am dreading the most. Have you made, or given any thought on doing, any videos on wiring? Keep up the great work!
I think about it. Most people dread it. Because I had to do it so often, I learned to love it. The easiest way to do your '72, if you want it all stock, is to buy a "reproduction" harness and install it with your manual open. I'm currently finishing up my old road bike, which is a '77 FLH, I bought brand new. I've installed everything I ever wanted on it for my comfort and convenience when travelling. Electronic tach, electronic speedo, turn signals, etc. etc. This bike is going to have a sidecar, so it needs everything. When doing an old chopper, five or six wires and you're good to go. If you decide to do a custom job on your '72, the only suggestion I would make is to "color-code" it. I've done it on custom bikes for years. Just do each system in the colors the factory used in the seventies. So much easier to trouble shoot or get into down the road. For example, tailight green, brake light red, oil sender yellow, headlight blue, left turn signal violet, right turn signal brown,,,,,,
Pacific Mike I do have a replacement harness and I’ll probably do just fine once I do dig into it. I’ll definitely have that diagram layed out. 😎. Thanks Mike!
@@pacificmike9501 Mike I love watching your videos thanks for helping us keep the classics going keep up all the great work you guys are doing !!! I would love to know your thoughts on a subject and that’s lubrication I’m a retired fleet maintenance supervisor so I know the subject well …particularly on the evolution and earlier engines ,oil cooler or no or cooler ,and I am a huge fan of synthetic oil .I run it in everything I own ,and I am very impressed would love to see a video and hear all of your thoughts on the subject
Was the engine free of oil in the case? If it has oil in the case then tightening the pushrod will force oil into the hydraulic lifter and it will be tight before 24 flats are reached even when the lifter has been bled and set gently into its place it will get oil in it... The service manuals all say tighten until lifter bottoms out but when is that exactly? They do not say. And you did not specify or I missed whether the engine is dry or oil filled. I had my 84 shovel set so the line on the crank was just appearing in the timing hole and 24 flats would not allow me to turn the pushrod at all and took 10 opposite turns before I could spin the rod with my fingertips. I am going to pull a lifter out again and see if it is loaded with oil... all videos and manuals I have ever seen never ever clarify this and the HD manual is sadly lacking info for about every subject and I highly recommend not shelling out 100 bucks for it. (electrical problems are difficult enough too especially now that volt/ohm meters have no words but symbols and instruction booklets are written by 8 year old chinese girls!I know what 200K means but next step after is 20m, wtf??? M for million? And you need more m for testing caps and higher m's are only high dollar units.
Okay. I'll try to clear it up. Make sure the lifter is at it's lowest point. We've covered that a lot. Now, extend the pushrod until there is no up and down shake. You can feel it engage in the lifter. Now extend the pushrod 24 flats. Yes, it is stiff. Leave it alone and it will bleed down. I don't care how long this takes. When you can rotate the pushrod with your fingers, it has bled enough. Now go to the next one, but, not before that first one has bled down. I hope this helps you.
Pacific Mike is one of the best mechanical tutors I've ever seen on CZcams.
Thank You.
He explains things so well. If harley davidson made a video of how to, Mike should be the star
I agree totally he has a nice calm voice explaining all that he does
"Don't compress the spring" that's what I needed to know! 5-7 tutorials on hydro shovel lifters and this is the first time someone has specified weather the spring should be compressed before the thread count begins.
Sounds like you're figuring it out. Cool.
I don't understand, it has to be the spring compressed, some kind of preload!?
Doesn't mean you're going to open a valve previous, that's sound kind of wrong, help me Mike.
Mike, really appreciate your concise teaching here. Quad seal you refer to is a cork seal with four sides? Also my bike is a stock 1981 FLH 80 with SS carb. I ordered new hydraulic lifters for it. My buddy and I suspect It has one lifter out of adjustment from wear and tear. Slightly noisy. He rides a stock 1983 Low Rider 80. He says his service manual covers mine too. He suggested I check my lifter adjustment till new hydraulic lifters arrive. My previous 1983 Ironhead, was a cinch in adjusting the solid lifters. Do you have access to the specs for my stock 81 FLH 80? The 4 turns I understand yet may be different acccording to the year model engine size? I was wondering if it is 4 turns too should I do 2 turns first to wait for push rod to turn freely vs 4 turns (24 flats)? Really appreciated your help with seat post adjustment and your well detailed easy to understand teaching.
As always, another "idiot proof" step by step, soup to nuts well produced vid! No ambiguity, no presumption of viewer knowledge, yet no talking to us like imbeciles either. Not only "how to", but also the all important "why do" which most vids lack. Mike and friends, you done nailed another one! The thread pitch caution alone demonstrates the superiority of your effort. I would quite honestly recommend your series to anybody considering turning wrenches on a hog, irregardless of their skill level or experience
Quite a compliment. We try. Thank you.
Pacific Mike I just watched your video on adjusting the lifters on a hydraulics on my shovelhead I want to thank you for being the speed that you take care of your business is very important because you get the message across to people and I just want to say thank you getting ready to put my shovel motor back together and that was very helpful thank you
Thank You. Enjoy that Shovel. What a prize.
Thanks Mike , for all your videos/knowledge , pretty decent mechanic myself & you have helped me perfect a lot of my skills when i wasn't exactly sure , 1964 bottom, 1966 top , 1967 transmission, 1957 ridged frame , partial list of my ride, Thanks Again & MERRY CHRISTMAS !
Merry Christmas and thank you for watching our videos. Great oldtime combination of well picked components. Strong lower end, strongest of the stock rigid frames (prettiest too) and the flow characteristics of an early Shovel.
Thank you for this demonstration on adjusting the lifters and the push rods I was lost on the count but now I have it. Thank you God bless.
Glad it helped! And, the best to you and yours.
I have been watching all sorts of repair/ adjustment videos.
Yours are the best I have watched.
Wow, thanks!
Mike, you sure do help us all with these very well thought out videos. Thank you so much! The way you explain the procedures and possible hazards of building these bikes and motors, is almost soothing as well as putting comfort in the average guys "do it himself"
Thank You
Jeez, wish their was an interweb and you had a channel 30 years ago. The short cuts and real world info you have displayed, would have been so good. But at the least you have made my current shovelhead build so much clearer 👌
That's great. Glad it helps.
I'm taking the top end off of my shovelhead for machining. Your videos have been essential to me. I couldn't get the push rods off until I watched this. Thank you!!
Glad to help
Thank you so much for your knowledge and videos you have helped me so much over the past few months
Glad to help
They should call you Professor Mike, I don't even own a Harley and I really enjoy your videos.
Thank you.
Great vid, Mike. Much appreciated. I'll be going through my 81 Sturgis soon. Good refresher.
Cool. Thank you.
I like doin things right the first time and as perfect as I can. Pride in your work.
I like doing my best and taking responsibility for the outcome.
Mike, I want to ride my shovel across country and come out to your place and work on it with you. Couldn’t be happier I found your videos. Your like the Bob Ross of motorcycles.
Thank You
Mike:
I watch every video that you produce and have learned a lot.
As a machinist and mechanic I could talk for about an hour on the subject of hydraulic lifters. I sat down and studied my Panhead pushrods in depth and came up with a "horse shoe" lifter gauge that slips on top of the lifter with a step that mimics 3 and 4 turns. No counting flats.
Something else I did was I noticed how the front exhaust extends the adjuster really far so I took a shovel head pushrod which is longer and swapped the upper ball end for a Panhead one.
-'lil stan
My computer is really acting up today. The valvetrain geometry for Harley Panheads, Shovelheads and Evos is just plain bad. There are so many solutions, each one created by someone doing some great thinking. That front exhaust pushrod is extended so much further and has quite an angle at the contact point. Major stress. Several of the "hot rodder" guys out there have made setups that took the pushrods much deeper into the lifters, thereby lessening that angle. Velva Touch does that. There was a solid lifter setup with long pushrods that went clear to the bottom of the lifter body. Harley made a similar tool to yours (I think they made it about 1981, not sure). Keep going. you may cure all of the inherent ailments in time.
Thank you Mr. Mike I'm putting my 1982 80" shovelhead engine top end back together today just got my heads rebuilt and brand new OEM jugs and pistons back yesterday your videos are the best I have ever watched. LnR
That's great! Thank You.
We are a few to follow your tutorials on Lyon (France / Europe). Everything is perfectly clear as usual.
Thank you Mike for your videos
Thank You.
i truly appreciate your posts my friend, ride free and safe
Glad you like it. Thank you.
Great video Mike. I really appreciate the info. Cleaning up my 84 FLH and got to the point in reassembly of needing to adjust the lifter. I bought a Climers manual and didn't quit understand their method so I watched your video. Your trick of bleeding the oil out of the lifter was what I needed. Thanks again. Mike.
You're quite welcome. Glad it helped.
Fantastic work, Mike…..I learned a whole lotta stuff
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks MIKE !
Great explanation of Hydraulic Roller Lifters for ShovelHead ENGINES
&
The various ways a ROOKIE could get him/her SELF into trouble
Thanks again for the CALM & detailed INSTRUCTIONS
COOP
..........................................
Thank You.
Hey Mike I was wondering if I could get your email address to send a pic of a bolt on my hubbys motorcycle handle bar we spent 5 hours and tried every tool in his shop to get this bolt off and nothing I wanted to see if you knew what kind of bolt it is? Im not sure how to post the pic on CZcams thanks
Just got to this stage so had a cup of Tea and watched how to do it. Now to put it into practice. Thanks Mike
Take it slow and enjoy it. Thank You.
I'm in the process of starting to go through a '76 FLH. These videos are helpful for the little old timer tricks the manual doesn't cover.
Any tips for rebuilding the E77-earlier front ends? Maybe a video in the future?
We do these things as they come up. When it comes up, we'll be glad to do it. However, if the bushings in the lower legs are worn out, it takes special equipment to install them and ream them to size.
Of all the videos I watched, this one helped me to solve my lifter problem. Thanks
Cool. I'm glad and, thank you.
@@pacificmike9501 today I just had a recurrence of the front exhaust lifter tapping. It went away after ten minutes and ran nice and quiet. I've examined the lifters and they look very good, no scoring, low miles apparently. Do I need to have a tighter adjustment on that front exhaust lifter? Would it be a "bad"lifter? What do you think of the conversion sets to newer hydraulic lifters?
The front exhaust lifter is the most stressed. It gets it's oil last and the pushrod is at the sharpest angle. Perhaps the oil passage needs to be blown clear of debris. Be sure the tappet screen is clean. Maybe the lifter has to be cleaned. Newer hydraulic lifters are better than the originals, but the problem should be found first.
Need to add this: Removing the cam cover and lifter blocks will allow you to blow out the passages with compressed air from the hole in the crankcase up through the lifter block passages. When reinstalling the original lifters, be sure the holes in the lifters face inward, toward themselves.
That was a really good video. First time I ever seen a video of someone doing it and it was very well explained with great camara work. Awesome being able to rewind so it all sinks in. I would like to add to anyone that if they get a new cam, they need to change those rollers or they need to get new lifters with new rollers on them and have the lifter block fitted to them down at the machine shop. My experience is the old lifters on a new cam will eat them selves up in not too long and possibly send metal through the engine. Also, if you use the teflon oring's on the rocker box's and pushrod tubes, they will never leak again. I think they are getting harder to find though.
They are available from Drag Specialties.
Great work Mike, thorough step by step with proper alignment tools and technical explaining.👌🏻
Glad you enjoyed it. Thank You
Boy, I am sure glad you mentioned the threads 1/4-24 and 1/4-20 on the block bolts. I have never seen fine threads in aluminum alloy and may have missed it. Thanks!
American stuff is usually 1/4-20 in aluminum. 1/4-28 is fine thread, usually what the British used in cast iron. Then, we have Harley's 1/4-24, used up until about 1972. Anrique Fords used it once in a while too.
Hello Mike, with videos I learn and understand my 68 Harley more and more - video by video! Thank you, even it is in english.
Thank you, and try Google Translate.
Very interesting, and scrolling through your thumbnails I see you on there where you were spoken up arim. In 1979 I worked in the bicycle store and that's where I learned have lace-up Wheels
Yah, it's fun stuff.
Hey Mike, I finished the 72 FX. I appreciate all of your help and you were right the wiring wasn’t as much of a project as I had thought it would be. I have photos if you’d like to see. It turns out we have a mutual friend - he told me to mention the Pony Express. Thanks again for the great videos and support! Mike C.
Very cool. Thank you. Sure, send pictures. And, your friend? He forgot, that was "PUNY" Express. Tell him "Hello." And, I still have her. Who is this guy?
Pacific Mike I’m not sure how to send pictures here... do you have an email address? Robert Crego
My bad on the spelling. I was talking to him on the phone and I must have misunderstood. Very cool that you still have her.
Yah. She's a "family pet."
I've received pictures in comments before. But I'm not real computer savvy. I'll find out today how they do it.
Hi mike , my bigdog oil pressure is fine . About 14 psi at idle and 35 to 38 at 2000 . So the only thing left is to do the lifters. There is oil being returned to the tank so the oil pump is fine.
Cool. You know, the way the plunger in the "tower" on the oil pump works, it sends oil to the top end until the oil pressure reaches a certain level, then it splits due to the position of that plunger and the oil pressure drops because it is following two paths, one to the top end and one to the bottom end. I hope your engine doesn't have some sort of blockage, starving the top end.
I use a block of wood I made to fit between two wrenches and tape them together to hold the two top nuts so I have three hands to adjust the lifter.
Cool.
I realise that this is an older video and I actually found it looking for how to remove and install the camshaft anyway thank you very much for your help it looks simple enough but still I am a mechanic not a bike mechanic and I had no idea how to do the tappets on a Shovel and my engine is S&S but I couldn't find a mechanic that would do a valve adjustment and I guess it is a bit time consuming and a mistake could cause some serious damage so thank you for your time and patience Cheers.
Glad it helped
Second time I watched this mike, your methods are great, your voice melodic, appreciate it!
Thank you. Glad you like it.
Ok instead of using that tool I use a clothes pin to hold the tube up but this guy is good and very knowledgeable 👍
Whatever works for you is cool. I only show how I do things. That doesn't make it the best. It's just what I do.
Great video Mike!
Doing pushrods on my 84FLHX White one bought it new at dealership in central Texas in 87 with 1 mile on her. Still riding her.
Very cool. When putting a different, high performance cam into an Evo, adjustable pushrods must be used. The stock pushros, for an Evo are non-adjustable.
gracias por la claridad de tus explicaciones, no dejan lugar a dudas
Thank you. Glad you like it.
Pacific Mike, I just today stumbled across your channel and after watching this video immediately subscribed. I was a heavy line mechanic for 1 of the major car manufacturers for over 20 years and owned a speed shop specializing in vehicles for the SCCA and custom built street cars (sleepers). I recently purchased a 73 Shovelhead that was torn down in the fall of 73 to be stroked and upgraded with all S&S conversion parts to a 96 cu/in engine however this entire project set in the basement until approximately 2008 because of life's circumstances and basically not knowing what he'd gotten himself into with no mechanical knowledge. The bike and all of the original and upgrade parts were bought by his brother in law and shipped from Illinois to Texas. Personally I wish that everything would've still been in pieces for me to assemble so that I would have known what cam, compression pistons, been able to CC the heads etc. but for everything that came with the bike plus some of the additional parts ie... Wagner front and rear disc brakes, electric start, 2000 & beyond electronic ignition and under 3500 original miles the price was right. The bike was put together by an old timer with a shop that works on nothing newer than the late 80's whose been around for years in the same spot with a warehouse of older bikes and hard to find parts lying around. My plan is to take the engine off and go back through it myself just to know what's inside of it to know where I can go from here with it. My question is do you have a series of videos on these older Shovelhead motors? I have 1 of the original Harley Davidson parts and repair manuals for schematics and wiring diagrams. I'm not trying to make it original but to me like any of us that ride usually want them anyway. It would just be nice to be able to watch more of your videos on these engines and the tricks you've learned along the way.
There's loads of Shovelhead stuff here. Go to CZcams. Type in Pacific Mike. There is a home page. Type in what you're looking for when you're on CZcams and loads will come up. Thank You.
By all means, buy a Year and Model appropriate Harley Davidson Service Manual. Try Tedd Cycle in New York for genuine manuals.
Awesome, wish Mike was my old Shop Teacher.
Thank You.
This and Engels coach building are my current "relax and forget Covid-19" channels. It is tough in south Africa with the draconian lockdown rules, eg we may walk along the beach front sidewalk, but get arrested if we walk on the sand... Nice smile at the end there, Mike!
Thank You, and I hope things get a lot better very soon.
Your video really helped me for my shovel head thank you very much sir.
Glad it helped
Necessity is the mother of invention.
Yep.
Great info Mike.
I like your pushrod tube holder! Them ole clothes pins always seem to get in the way!
Thanks Mike!
Beautiful engine!
Thank you.
Hi MIKE,
Thanks for ALL the Tips & Hints
COOP
...................................
You bet! Thanx for watching.
Mike I have to say outstanding video thank you. nothing but the best bro from you. bless you man
Thank you.
This is with a stock camshaft. I did it this way but had a 450' lift camshaft,. 2 burned exhaust valves. Al things sorted right now. I had the cylinder + heads have a full service at super cycles in the Netherlands. So now gonna adjust the lifters 3 full turns (24tpi) Instead of 4 full turns. A learning proces.
Sounds like you ought to check the spring height on your valves. Also sounds like you might be using 1981 heads. Check with cam mfgr. on this one.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks again! The cyl.heads are from 1979. The guy from the shop has checked it all. So I have to trust to it. Thanks for your learning video's.✌️👍
Hello Mike! Awesome video subscribed and clicked on the bell for future awesome videos. 🙂
Thank You. Welcome aboard.
Very informative, looking forward to the next brother
Thank you. Glad to be of service.
Miss you Mike ,it's Cody from Kenny's shop . Glad to see your doing good !
Thanks Cody! Hope you're doing well too.
Hey Mike...
It seams that the Clymer manual explains it different..
My bike is a 71 FLH with hydrolic lifters..
It basically says to tighten them down till it just seats then back out 1 3/4 turns.. of course when lifter is on heal of cam..
Just got it running and need to change the push rod o rings because they are leaking a lot..
Thanks....
Great vids....
Okay. Thank You.
@@pacificmike9501 well the thing is i am not sure i trust the clymer book...
I really was wondering if the way they explain it and the way you demonstrated it are basically the same to achieve the desired end... just from different directions..
Sometimes the book seems vague and leaves me a little confused...
And my bike is a 71 not a 79 like yours..
I really appreciate your videos and respect your knowledge..
Thanks
many thanks Mike for this vidéo , wich is véry helpfull for me today ! Happy new year!!!
Happy new year! Glad it helped you.
Doing a brilliant job as always easy to take in and understand thanks
Glad you enjoy it.
@@pacificmike9501 your a good man your replying to something you did a couple of years ago I learing so much from your vids thanks
Keep your knees in the Breeze
Very good video and explanation
Glad you liked it
Very helpful..been along time since I have had one. Back at it again
Welcome back.
Thanks, after reinstalling the back cilinderhead I will adjust the valves as shown 👍
Sounds good!
Very cool that you’re doing this and thank you for that do you have a video on rocker box assembly and shimming rockers?
Look at our CZcams Home Page. Go to the word that says "Playlists." Click on the one for Shovelhead Engine work. It's in there.
This bloke is the real deal. Fantastic.
Thank You.
outstanding video. thank you!
Thank you. Glad you're enjoying it.
Another very informative video Mike,,thanks and keep them coming
Glad you like it. Thank you.
What is so nice about your videos is you actually use tools no electric screwdrivers electric ratchet’s and all that bullshit old school all the way excellent job
Thank You.
Thanks Mike for a superior explanation.
Thank You. I'm glad if it was helpful.
Mike could you please do a tutorial on replacing hydraulic lifters with solid lifters on my 1980 FXB Sturgis? Thanks
I've shown installing lifters. I've shown adjusting solids. Go to our homepage. Just type in pacific mike. Click on the knucklehead motor and it will come up. Then, click on the word "videos" and about 340 of them will come up with pictures and descriptions.
Hey Mike, great stuff, I like the way you work and explain the things.
Well my question referring the adjustment of the push rods on my 76 FLH Shovel:
What is exactly the correct position of the engine and the valves to do these 24 moves?
I appreciate your tips.
Ride on Dude!
Sam from Switzerland 😃👍🏽
Remove the spark plugs. Rotate the engine with the front lifters exposed. When the front intake valve lifter goes down, it is closing. When it's all the way down, adjust the pushrod. Wait for the lifter to bleed out its oil. Check to see that the front exhaust lifter is at its very bottom. Now adjust that pushrod and make sure it bleeds down before rotating to do the rear valves.
Different videos of this. You make 4 turns down on push rods and other push the pusk rod completely down to bottom and 1 1/2 turn up? Both are the same? Thank you for all the videos you have made. Regards from wideglide 83 model in Norway 🎉
Their are different year service manuals and one guy approached trhe operation one way, and another guy approached it another way. All of the Shovelheads came with the same solid lifters. So, you are correct, different way to get to the same measurement.
Thanks for another useful video.
Glad you like it. Thank you.
Another great Vid in this series. Not sure if I’ve missed one or not haha. I’ll just keep going through them. Can never know too much 😎👍
Cheers
Glad you like them!
Torque Lifter guide bolts
9-12 ft-lbs (12-16 Nm... this is for my 1997 FXLR... should be the same bolts Mr.Mike...
Early Evos used cast iron lifter blocks. Shovelheads use cast iron lifter blocks. Later stuff had aluminum lifter blocks. Most aftermarket lifter blocks are aluminum. Some are cast iron. Is yours stock? Are you using the original lifter blocks? What does your service manual, or supplier's instructions, say?
Mike, have you ever considered a compilation of your tutorials in single web page form? Lots of good material.
Thank You. Lots of stuff bounces around in my head. Not sure what to do.
Used clothes pins for the pushrod tubes.
C'mon now. My favorite old hardware store has brand new wooden clothes pins. The guy at the counter said, "Getting those for your potato chips, Mike?" I said, "No. They're for my Harley."
Great video Mike... you have taught this old fart a lot of good stuff.... thank you
We all learn from each other. Thank You.
Ok. I’ll let you know what happens after I do the lifters thank you
Cool.
I have a 1973 it’s 1-4-24 tpi and i believe that they changed when you see the flat bottom lifter bolts if they have a angle they are 1/4/24 flat 1/4/20 first year for end oilers to
Not sure. Those 12 point lifter block bolts can be had in both thread pitches. And, stuff get mixed and matched and changed. It's important to look at each 1/4 " bolt on Harleys from the mid-70's back. Remember, this wasn't just lifter blocks. It was cam covers and primaries, and distributors and tranny lids, probably stuff I don't even remember. So, I look at all of them when I pull them. And I keep repair inserts around for everything I use. And, I believe you're correct about end oiler pinion shafts. But, again, dealing with alot of changes, I just wait and be surprised, but be aware it has to all work together. And the learning goes on forever.
Pacific Mike I have been turning wrenches for 50 years and I agree with you that you can always learn something I remember the shovel and I think you should have a keen eye with the parts or motor you have to work on. I know when the end oilers came out and I have Never seen a 12 point flat bottom lifter screw that came with 1/4-24 threads. And if it’s got a 60 degree included angel it’s a 1/4-24 thread I have learned a few things that you are very good about explaining what you are doing. Just another way around the tree and I have to say I love the mouse trap video but when you said a 73 shovel has 1/4-20 thread I don’t think you are wrong I know you are wrong. I have a great 73 I have owned it since 91 it was a very low mileage and with good reason. The clutch didn’t work and upon inspection I found the person who didn’t need a job at the factory had screwed the clutch hub on cocked and they had to hold it like that. And I know that when a bike that year and for the life of shovel heads were a lot of problems. I have never had anyone but me work on my Motorcycle’s and I started with a 1947 Indian chief Roadmaster a blue one.
Okay, I'm sure you're correct. I don't carry everything in my head when it's written in books. However, if you look in aftermarket catalogues and find replacement lifter blocks, you will find 12 pt screws with both 24 and 20 tpi. This is so the lifter blocks can be interchanged. The sort of thing I always look for as a matter of habit. Not worth arguing over. But, when working on other people's bikes, you really don't know what you'll find until you're there. I've been subjected to alot of mix and match stuff, and had to figure it out. I remember long nights with every year service manual that could possibly apply just to figure out an oil pump on aftermarket cases with mix and matched parts. I've turned wrenches all my life and, like I said, the learning goes on forever and I still learn from other guys. I'm sure I could learn stuff from you. I learned alot from my '52 80 inch Chief. I learned a lot back in '69, when I built my '58 Sportster. Hopefully, it goes on forever. Today, I'll work on my '77 Shovel, I bought new in '78. Keep enjoying your Shovel. They are grand.
I just have to adjust the rear head. How do you set up the motor so you can adjust both rods at the same time....thanks for your time
Remove the sparplugs and rotate the engine by hand. Watch the lifters rise and fall. Exhaust up and down, then intakle up and down (in just that order). When the intake goes down, the exhaust is already down. Now both pushrods and lifters are down with both valves being closed. Rock the engine a little back and forth before adjusting each one to be sure, individually that the lifters are bottomed.
Mike Great video can you provide a link to the video that shows how to find bottom of the stroke for each jug. I'm not using a mew motor I'm adjusting push rods after putting the heads back onto my 84 shovel and I'm just rotating the motor by turning the rear wheel.
When adjusting valves, you want the lifters at the bottom of their stroke and the piston at the top of its compression stroke. With the spark plugs and pushrods out, rotate the engine until you see the lifters drop. First the exhaust, then the intake. When the intake is as low as it's going to get, the piston is up. You can move that rear wheel a little now, with your finger on a lifter to make sure it's down all the way. You're only working on one cylinder at a time, and after adjusting the pushrods in that cylinder, NEVER ROTATE THE MOTOR UNTIL BOTH OF THOSE HYDRAULIC LIFTERS HAVE BLED DOWN. After the lifters have bled down, and the pushrods can easily be rotated with your fingers, the motor can be rotated to install and adjust the pushrods in the next cylinder.
@@pacificmike9501 Would I not first adjust the pushrod for the intake of one cylinder then with the motor in the same position do the exhaust in the second cylinder then rotate the motor with the wheel and then do the next two exhaust and intakes, I believe I know how to watch the lifter to dind TDC but could you provide a link to your video on how to do this. I'm using a S&S video now but much prefer yours
Great video mike. Keep them coming.
Thank you. We try.
Mike, just to revisit the push rod adjustment. On dry adjustment, there seems to be another method. Some people's method is different. "Adjust the push rod until the push rod collapses completely than adjust it upwards 1 1/2 turns". I surmise that which ever method you use. you arrive at the correct adjustment. Not sure if one method is better or just a matter of choice and experience? This is probably a dumb question, but measuring the lifter at it's compressed and relaxed position and knowing TPI of the push rod, 1 1/2 turn out or 4 turns in, the overall dimension should be the same??? Excuse my reasoning, early in the morning and too much coffee. Thks
The manufacturer of the lifters and pushrods makes their recommendations based on the distance required to get the lifter at the proper length for their design. So, the TPI is a very important factor. How far do they want their lifter collapsed? Okay, based on the TPI, we would then know how many revolutions of pushrod adjuster would be required.
Now getting my first cup of coffee this morning.
So I’m reading my manual and it says 11/2 turns up from lifter completely collapsed if dry or 4 down if full of oil. I tried both on rear exhaust dry, after four turns down or 24 flats it puts me at 3 full turns to fully collapse the lifter this a Haynes manual telling me this. So I don’t the lifter is in the same place
I guess I’m going to go with the video
I am having an oil leak on my front lifter block. This is a 1967 FLH. I removed and replaced with a factory gasket and I still have oil leaking once I get it good and hot. Everything looks good. Do you have any ideas where I could solve this issue. Thanks. I enjoy all your videos.
First, be sure it's the lifter block. Other things have been known to happen there. Clean and dry the crankcase around the lifter block. The place to check is the crankcase under the cylinder. The vertical surface is what I'm wondering. If that's not leaking, it just isn't bad. Make sure the lifter block is not cracked. Make sure the oil is going through the lifter bock and not getting stopped somewhere. Now, if everything else is fine, get a nice thick paper lifter block gasket, spray it with coppercoat, and bolt it down. If it still leaks, this will take further investigation.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you for the prompt reply. I will take apart again and will do thorough inspection of base of cylinder/case. That factory gasket was paper thin. I will make a point of seeing how flat the two surfaces are. Thanks for the help. Very appreciated. Chuck.
This may be a dumb question but, when adjusting the pushrod in a lifter full of oil if you wait say 20 30 minutes and you still can’t turn the pushrod can you then adjust it to where it will turn and then move on since it has bled out or should you loosen it up turn the motor over and start again? Thanks for the videos they are very informative and enjoyable to watch. I’m a novice and I’m trying to keep an old shovel on the road the best I can.
It will eventually bleed down. Be patient. If it never happens, I'd say that lifter is "seized" for some reason, and find out why. Removal and inspection, possibly even disassembly. But, don't turn the motor over until the lifter allows the pushrod to turn. And, "good question."
Good video as always. When I adjust, I darken the whole flat with a magic marker, just count the the complete turns.
Or count the flats. Just don't get interupted.
Very helpful Mike. Thanks.
Cool. Thank you.
Isso é mecânico raiz sem frescurage show
Frills don't do it for me. If the original part is beautiful, I use the original part. If not, I come up with something I feel is better. I believe that a motorcycle is most beautiful at about 70mph. But, Thank You.
Great teacher--thank you!
Thank you. What a nice compliment.
Tappet guide bolts torque is 65 to 105 in-lbs
Yep.
Could you give me some good choices for shovelhead gaskets please? Outstanding video Mike! You are a great teacher. Thank you!
Most of the suppliers carry at least two or three brands. I find all of them to be adequate. After trying them, you'll find your own personal preferences. Thank you for the kind compliment.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike. Would you tell me what brand you prefer?
I'm sorry, due to terms and conditions, I can't push brands. Cometic, James, and several others are all good. Try them and you'll pick your own favorites.
Hi Mike, just found your channel and love it...subscribed immediately! Your calm and calculated speech makes it a pure joy to listen to and watch. I'm in my 60's, never owned a Harley, but fell in love with the very first Sturgis 1340 Shovel to arrive in Oz (yes, I'm an Aussie), after I had the privilege of taking it out for a little spin (wooden brakes and all)! I now live in Armenia (Eastern Europe) and would love to get my hands on a late 70's/early 80's, naked style FLH. I'm not into speed, but appreciate quality built, solid, reliable machines. Do you build bikes for customers? If so, would you recommend an FLH frame, with a 74" or 80" or an aftermarket engine such as S&S? All the best to you and keep up the good work. Regards, Mitch
I keep finding comments from back a ways. My apologies. I'm retired. I do stuff for myself and occasionally, a friend in need. All those questions have to be answered, "Your build, your choices." Thanx again.
So you basically set the play of the pushrod to zero and "preload" the lifter spring with 4 turns?
Yes, in a "Hydraulic" lifter. After making this adjustment, you need to wait for the lifter to "bleed down." It is full of oil, and after adjusting the pushrod, the valve is being held open until the oil in the lifter drains or "bleeds" out. Now the engine can be rotated to adjust the next valve. Don't forget this step or damage can occur.
Pacific Mike Thank you very much, Mike!
Very informative. Thank you. Joe🤠
Glad it was helpful!
Are the bolts holding your heads together 12pt socket?. I got a pair of heads with the same bolts & hadn’t seen them often/wondered why they are used.
Thanks for the video..I like your methodical preparation & explanations...you could’ve been a Doctor!! Dr. Flat? Dr. Knuckle Dr.Pan? Dr. Shovel? 😂 Dr. Big Twin? You choose....either way
you’re Dr. Mike (P-HD)-Pacific Harley Davidson...0R....(MD) Mechanical Dr.👍
Thank You. The twelve point head bolts are actually a kit made for installing fat cylinders (bigger bore). They're made with those twelve point heads because they leave more room for a wrench. They're much nicer to install and remove.
home run Mike! tks.
Thank you.
Mr Mike your videos are all excellent thanks a lot for the info. I just have a question about the process of installing the lifters. When we install new lifters do we need to fill them internally with oil or do we install them dry as is? Thank you!
They usually come with oil in them. When you install them, always allow them to bleed down before rotating the engine. When I'm all done, and the plugs are still out, I spin the engine over to fill the lifters with oil before starting it. Do this carefully. Don't heat that starter up. When the lifters are quiet, then put the plugs in and start it.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you so much Mike! You're a great mechanic and human. Thank you.
EXCELLENT JOB..THANK YOU ...MIKE..
Thank You.
Awesome video thank you mike and yes that is a pretty engine
Thank you. I think Harley built a pretty motor. This one is just detailed; painted cylinders and lifter blocks, polished rocker boxes and cam cover, polished exposed side of oil pump, and new chrome hardware that is accurate reproduction of the original.
when installing the lifter block, you use the 'tools' that appear to just be bolts. How is their use beneficial vs just starting to bolt the block in place since there isn't any adjustment on the lifter block, it's just 4 holes.
They are special bolts that have a large taper on top. The holes in the lifte blocks are slightly large. The tools center the lifter block.
Should fab up a double wrench to solve the lack of third hand problem to tighten the lock nut.
Not a bad idea. However, there are different lifters and pushrods from several different manufacturers with different spacing. Fabricating a double ended wrench for your own setup would be cool.
I respect your opinion, hyd lifters will not stand high revin quick response shovels with high lift cams and so shorty carb I like yo show 😎
Thanks. We all approach things in a way that pleases us as individuals. That's what makes a motorcycle "custom." I built my Shovel for me. It's not a drag bike. It's a longwinded roadbike.
thanks Mike
You are quite welcome.
Thanks for the videos. Great job - you’re an excellent teacher. They have been very useful, especially if you watch them before you start the repair! A good story - I was able to track down and purchase my first Harley (actual Bike) a 1972 Super Glide FX that I’m restoring to original. Your videos have been extremely y helpful with that and with working on my 1980 Sturgis. I am in the middle of restoring the FX and although a 72 FX with no turn signals and a kick start only, is probably one of the easiest bikes to wire, it is the step I am dreading the most. Have you made, or given any thought on doing, any videos on wiring? Keep up the great work!
I think about it. Most people dread it. Because I had to do it so often, I learned to love it. The easiest way to do your '72, if you want it all stock, is to buy a "reproduction" harness and install it with your manual open. I'm currently finishing up my old road bike, which is a '77 FLH, I bought brand new. I've installed everything I ever wanted on it for my comfort and convenience when travelling. Electronic tach, electronic speedo, turn signals, etc. etc. This bike is going to have a sidecar, so it needs everything. When doing an old chopper, five or six wires and you're good to go. If you decide to do a custom job on your '72, the only suggestion I would make is to "color-code" it. I've done it on custom bikes for years. Just do each system in the colors the factory used in the seventies. So much easier to trouble shoot or get into down the road. For example, tailight green, brake light red, oil sender yellow, headlight blue, left turn signal violet, right turn signal brown,,,,,,
Pacific Mike I do have a replacement harness and I’ll probably do just fine once I do dig into it. I’ll definitely have that diagram layed out. 😎. Thanks Mike!
You bet. It will be great.
Good info Mike love it !!!!
Glad you enjoyed it
@@pacificmike9501 Mike I love watching your videos thanks for helping us keep the classics going keep up all the great work you guys are doing !!! I would love to know your thoughts on a subject and that’s lubrication I’m a retired fleet maintenance supervisor so I know the subject well …particularly on the evolution and earlier engines ,oil cooler or no or cooler ,and I am a huge fan of synthetic oil .I run it in everything I own ,and I am very impressed would love to see a video and hear all of your thoughts on the subject
I would have to be a chemical engineer, which I am not. And, I never "plug" brands. I do appreciate, however, your thoughts.
Was the engine free of oil in the case? If it has oil in the case then tightening the pushrod will force oil into the hydraulic lifter and it will be tight before 24 flats are reached even when the lifter has been bled and set gently into its place it will get oil in it... The service manuals all say tighten until lifter bottoms out but when is that exactly? They do not say. And you did not specify or I missed whether the engine is dry or oil filled. I had my 84 shovel set so the line on the crank was just appearing in the timing hole and 24 flats would not allow me to turn the pushrod at all and took 10 opposite turns before I could spin the rod with my fingertips. I am going to pull a lifter out again and see if it is loaded with oil...
all videos and manuals I have ever seen never ever clarify this and the HD manual is sadly lacking info for about every subject and I highly recommend not shelling out 100 bucks for it.
(electrical problems are difficult enough too especially now that volt/ohm meters have no words but symbols and instruction booklets are written by 8 year old chinese girls!I know what 200K means but next step after is 20m, wtf??? M for million? And you need more m for testing caps and higher m's are only high dollar units.
Okay. I'll try to clear it up. Make sure the lifter is at it's lowest point. We've covered that a lot. Now, extend the pushrod until there is no up and down shake. You can feel it engage in the lifter. Now extend the pushrod 24 flats. Yes, it is stiff. Leave it alone and it will bleed down. I don't care how long this takes. When you can rotate the pushrod with your fingers, it has bled enough. Now go to the next one, but, not before that first one has bled down. I hope this helps you.
@@pacificmike9501 yes it does though it took a while for me to reply!