SECOND TEST Reveals More ISSUES with the BELT DRIVE SYSTEM in my TRAXXAS XMAXX
Vložit
- čas přidán 28. 08. 2022
- In this video I test out the Ebay Belt and Pulley Drive System I recently installed in my Traxxas X-Maxx for the Second Time which unfortunately Reveals More issues that must be addressed
Traxxas Xmaxx Belt / Pulley Drive 25/30 -
www.ebay.com/itm/334505414261...
Traxxas Xmaxx Belt / Pulley Drive 20/30 -
www.ebay.com/itm/334487962022...
Traxxas Xmaxx Aluminum Motor Mount -
www.ebay.com/itm/284528863897...
Amazon Affiliate Links -
Hobbywing 5687 (1100kv) Brushless Motor -
amzn.to/3zuLpVr - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Nice work Nolan, way to keep plugging away at it. The tension you set on the belt near the end of the video is money, spot on. when you get all the fans replaced and your satisfied with the setup, get you one of the M2C motor mounts for it, like i was saying before, it makes it so much easier to adjust the belt tension and to swap gear/pulleys, the motor adjustment bolts are on the side of the mount instead of behind the pully. Really like mine, Makes it easy. Great video
Thanks man! I really appreciate the help! 👍😉
Its funny how the majority of our rc cars run perfectly well stock, yet we still modify the crap out of them and sometimes create unnecessary problems like this one. Not judging, im guilty of it too lol
Yep 🤣 this is my thought whenever I see guys put HUGE 8s tires on smaller trucks, just asking for problems! But at least ya look cool doing it 😅😂
Yeah that’s true…..the Xmaxx gears stock are garbage though lol 😂
we are rc addicts. we are always looking for the bigger "high". just like drugs only much, much more fun... and it will make you just as broke!!!
@@stevenbrooks7776 very well said lol 😂
Nolan, I am certain that the noise you're hearing is the lugs on the belt being forced out of the splines on the pulley, due to the loose condition of the belt as it turns under power, the belt tends to "follow" the pulley due to the slack. That will eventually scrub the lugs off the belt.
Is there a way that you can shim the motor mount upwards and thereby, tighten the belt drive?
I'm glad that you're revisiting this belt drive system and maybe trying the other gear options they offer is worth the cost if you want to keep working with it! That may also solve the loose belt problem.
Looks as though you found the sweet spot for your belt tension! Keep in mind however that those aluminum pulleys will pull a lot of heat out of the motor through the shaft, so your heat management will be a big issue regarding belt heat to. You've done very well figuring this system out Nolan!
Yeah hopefully it’ll hold up…..thanks for all the help
My guess is ya need a max 5 like other guys have said. Thanks for the Entertainment. You will get it right! Good Luck Sir
Yeah you’re probably right…..hopefully I’ll get it figured out
Nice job dude!
Thank you!
Put a sharpie Line on the belt and pulley, like a timing mark on a timing chain and cam, and see if they are still aligned after running it. That will at least tell you if the belt is indeed slipping. That being said, I think a pulley system is just impractical for an xmaxx for a bunch of reasons.
Thanks for the tip! Maybe I’ll have to try that out
I also have a belteddrive build, it's from WFO.. they recommend 15 to 18/30 is best for 1100kv motor.. higher spur gearing will surely make it hot faster.
Nice! Thanks for letting me know
So pretty on my experience from the max6 is if your running that might as well go back to the stock gearing of an xmaxx
Putting a max5 fixed all my issues and im running a 56118kv hw motor- trucks a beast
Nice man! It’s a good Esc
So for the same reason inhave my max6 esc blinking green light and shutting down is because of my gearing. I was running 30 spur and 25 pinion and it was the WFO set up. But it was too late when I realized all that issue i burned my newly max6 esc not even 2 weeks old. And no i end up with mamba xlx2 with a 35 spur and 20 pinion from vivaton. All this with the same motor you have. Now its running perfect.
Thanks for letting me know your experience 👍😉
Mine has been installed for about 3 years now with no issues. Still the original belt also. Castle 2028 system installed.
That’s surprising….I’ve had a bunch of tension issues with mine
The 1100kv is MADE for the max6. They sell it together.
It’s also a 1/6 scale motor and LIGHT 1/5 scale up to 25lbs.
You have the wrong motor mount. Get an m2c and you’ll have no issues with mesh/belt tension.
You need better fans, on esc and motor. Get rid of that castle fan i used to have that same one and It don’t flow well.. Go GCRC.
Also the gearing is technically mod 1.5 so it’s a 25t/30t equivalent.
I haven’t had ANY issues with mine but, I researched everything before jumping in. I’ll be posting a video here soon about mine.
Keep on bashing brother!
Appreciate the info man….I ended up ditching the belt for the Vitavon 1.5 mod gears awhile ago though….I think I’ll stick with that, it’s been working well
Cool fix with the belt and nice run
Thanks bro!
@@RCKnockout 😁👍
It's the belt skipping, I know because I already went through 3 belts and it makes the same noise, it's just that your esc shuts down before you can fully strip the belt. ..
That would make sense…..I’ve tightened the belt up now though
Over geared for that ESC and the sound it probably the output gear grinding on the center diff cause the tention on the belt it bent the spur shaft or its flexing under power
I bet it’s the belt skipping on the spur pulley. I think that the pulley on the motor shaft is pulling the slack from one side and allowing for more slack on the other causing the belt to skip on the spur pulley.
Yeah I tightened the belt numerous times since this video….the tension ended up pulling the threads out of the bulkhead for the spur gear assembly cover….after that I took this setup out….it was too much of a pain to work on…and super unreliable
I'm running a 20/25 belt drive with a max5 and 5867 and no issues!
Thanks for letting me know! 👍😉
Noise = belt slipping slightly. Will get worse over time as it stretches from use. Either get a motor mount that will let you set the correct tension or ditch the belt drive and get mod 1.5 gears.
Thermal cutoff? Your current ESC setup is only viable in sub 85F weather. Your Max 6 is buried in the chassis with a hot motor right next to it, and has a stock fan on it. You're running this Xmaxx in hot summer temps..."working as expected" I'd say. That little stock fan has no chance! Get a stronger fan and/or a plate to mount it on top so it gets more air. I'd say get a high output fan and see where that gets you. You'll need that fan one way or the other. It's only a matter of time before the stock ESC fan breaks too. Get one you'll not have to worry about that works better. It will save you from replacing a burnt up Max 6 in the end.... and doing this all over again. Good fan = cheaper than replacing the ESC over and over.
25/35 1.5 gears on a HW 1100kv is the sweet spot for the Xmaxx imo. Don't even need motor fans (Even in the summer heat) for this setup. Mine runs sub 170f motor temps even when pushing it hard. Fewer fans = fewer points of failure. Does a basher really need to be geared up high enough to need motor fans? Depends on the motor I guess. This HW 1100 does not! (Nor does the 800kv when setup right)
If you end up going with those mod 1.5 gears go ahead and use GREEN Loctite on the set screws!!! Unless you're changing the gearing weekly (how many people re-gear a basher outside of fixing damage?) everything else is just creating issues for yourself. Soak new gears in brake cleaner to remove the machine oil from the factory. Test gearing (with a temp gun) to make sure it's not going to burn the motor/esc up. Set the mesh correctly AND LOCK THAT SHIT DOWN! If you really enjoy being out bashing and having gear slip issues, by all means, keep using the lesser Loctite types. If you'd rather "set it and forget it".... go green!
Test new gearing with a legit temp gun! Why guess? These guns are cheap and eliminate the guess work. Once you KNOW the gearing is right and wont set the electronics on fire ya don't have to use it much. Using thermal cutoff to identify being over geared is like driving into a brick wall to test your airbag. Find the actual temp ranges of your electronics, use a heat gun to verify how hot everything is running while testing, adjust gearing and cooling to remain within these temps = You're not buying new electronics to fix the stupid.
Why put the stock motor back in? You'll only be back to the lousy gearing problems that led you to get the HW motor in the first place. The HW 1100kv is far superior to the stock motor on a number of levels. You just have to put a good drive solution on said motor. Putting a half borked pulley system on it + choking the ESC out in the summer heat isn't a reason to put the stock system back in IMO. You have a good motor and ESC. Use what actually works well on/with them. Crazy idea, I know.
Yes, adding weight to this platform can create more breakage issues. No doubt. But if you mod it with your brain, and understand where this trucks weaknesses are you can mod most of the issues out. The game is to add as little extra weight as possible while still upping the performance. The steering linkage, center drive shaft, over flexing of the chassis, hubs breaking, arm pins popping out, crappy stock ESC, bad tires/hexes, and gears stripping/falling off are the main issues with this truck. Stick to solving those issues while avoiding adding a ton of weight and you can have a modded Xmaxx that is actually way more durable than stock. That said nothing is "unbreakable".
/endrant
Add a plate under motor mount 1/4 in ,more play
Ok thanks man!
Cool video, You need a max 5 for that 1100KV motor or put a high speed fan on that max 6 when i get my xmaxx i will run it stock then upgrade to a max 5 with 1100KV. But first i plan to get a 5ive t 2.0 or maybe get the xmaxx early i don't know.
Thanks bro!
@@RCKnockout No problem, i like to help if i can.
@@cjchannel12RC appreciate it!
Bro my had a sound like that since I installed 1100kv and change bulkhead and vitavon diff ring gear,so far good.that in and out off the diff make where the screws hold the diff off not holding the diff.hope that help
Are you talking about the screws that go into the diff cup?
@@RCKnockout the once that hold the diff cover
@@hrivera9357 oh gotcha…..no my diff cover is on tight…..I check those screws pretty regularly
@@RCKnockout just want to help because that problem was driving me crazy
@@hrivera9357 no problem bro…..I appreciate the help
The noise is from the set screw. And yes, you're overheating because you're over gearing it. You need an 18/30 not 25/30. That or go with a Max5 ESC. You have enough tension.
Thanks for the tip! I’m not aware of an 18/30 available….just a 20/30
@@RCKnockout eBay has them. Search for "5M Timing Belt Pulley 10T-100T Synchronous Wheel for 15mm Width Powerdrive Belts" and get either a 15 or an 18. It's either bad luck or just belt drive issues but I started having chattering issues too. Upon inspection I found my belt had loosened. Added some washers to the shim kit and got it all fixed up. Came to find out the more belt tension helped your chattering too.
@@krakentuned oh ok…it’s a different brand…..yeah the added belt tension appears to have eliminated the chattering noise
I agree the max5 is a great option. The xlx2 are very powerful but you never know if or when one might turn into a Roman candle on you.
flip over the motor mount slider on the left so it matches the one on the right
It’s not that simple….that doesn’t work
@@RCKnockout then you can tighten the belt more
I have same belt drive works perfect
What kind of connectors are you using? You might want to upgrade away from the traxxas connectors to qs8's or other higher power connectors. It will help power flow better and help your esc from heating up as fast. The belt drive systems put a little extra load on the system. Another thing I noticed Is your running 60C batteries. Try running a higher discharge battery to help with the hear issues. Also i noticed that your electrical wires are really long. Make them shorter. The more efficient you can make the electrical current flow it will help in some aspects of heat.
The other thing is to get the OTA wireless programer from hobbywing. You can review your data logs with it. Just my .02
Thanks for the tips! Yeah I’m just running the Traxxas plugs currently
Connectors are not the issue, trust me i just had this same problem with my max6 esc. (Blinking green light and shutting down) but i didn’t listen to my my gutt feeling and then after few more runs my max6 esc burned down. Its because also im running the wfo gears 30 spur 25 pinion. After that i slap a mamba xlx2 and and got a 35 spur and 20 pinion this is all with a 1100kv motor from hobby-wing and now my xmaxx runs like a freakin new beast or a rc truck
@@oscarmike131 it wasn’t the connector? Why do you think it started on fire?
@@RCKnockout I had the same issue. I'm not saying it will fix the problem for sure but you have a fairly large motor on that rig. It draws a lot of power. The traxxas connectors cannot handle the power needs. The other thing that's causing unnecessary power strain on the ESC is how long the power wires are. Between the connectors and length of cables, it's causing your esc to have to drink through a long and very thin straw. I have had to deal with these same issues myself. And to the person that mentioned the castle XLX2, they are ticking time bombs. Ask me how I know! I'm not bashing castle here, quite the opposite. They have made a seriously powerful esc and they can be very volatile if the wind blows wrong.
The fan on your ESC is the main problem though. Get that fixed and then get your rig wired up for efficiency. To test use the hobbywing Wireless module to view your log data. If you have other hobbywing esc's the Wireless module will pay off. Good luck sir!
@@reconrc1787 ok thanks for all the help! 👍😉
So i’ve watch this whole video i think you are better off to changing that esc before it burns down on you. Switch to max 5 or mamba xlx2 and keep that same setup of your belt drive
Belt is 2 tight u actually dont want the belt to tight u want some slack in it thats what the sound is i think as long screws dont come loose blet tension wont be a problem also tight belts cause extreme heat
Ok thank you!
@@RCKnockout hey no problem try it out and see if it helps i learned this by losing up my blets its like when you put the pinion n spur to close together it runs bad n hot hope it helps would love to see the Xmax running smooth for u
It looks like it’s been a year. R u pretty happy with the belt drive or no?
No it’s broken every time I’ve used it….I switched to 1.5 mod Vitavon gears….I’ve had no issues with them
@@RCKnockout damn. Thanks for the heads up.
@@Facts-R-Real you’re welcome 👍😉
@@RCKnockoutI forgot to ask, when u said it broke everytime what did u mean?
@@Facts-R-Real the pulley would spin on the shaft because it doesn’t have a good flat spot to screw the grub screw down…another issue, it would strip my transmission input gear due to the tension of the belt pulling up on the spur gear shaft
What are the advantages of belt drive? Just a cool thing to have or? Bc it seems like a major pain in the ass 😅 but hey that’s a big part of the fun with RCs 🤪
8:55 I hate that feeling 🤣🤣🤣 “hmm is this right?”
Lol…..the stock Xmaxx gears are garbage….I’ve stripped probably a dozen of them at this point…..also I’ve stripped hardened steel ones too….that’s the whole reason for the switch
@@RCKnockout ahh gotcha, In that case hopefully with an upgraded esc/motor fan setup it can stay cool enough. Shouldn’t have to deal with stripping ever again if you can make it work 🤟🏽
@@V8chump I know that’s the biggest allure…..No more stripped pinions or spurs…..just gotta get it dialed in
Yup that gearing is not suitable for max6 for being for 1/6 scale esc. Like i said you can run that max6 BUT switch back to stock gearing sizes OR still use the belt drive but go for max5 or mamba xlx2.
Ok thanks for the tip!
@@RCKnockout your welcome bro, right now im loving my set up. Its mamba xlx2, mod 1.5 gear (spur 35 and pinion 20) with a hobby wing 1100kv motor
@@oscarmike131 yeah 1.5 mod is the next step if I can’t get the belt drive sorted out
@@RCKnockout i mean you can still run the belt drive, i dont think thats the issue. You just gotta get a max5 at least or xlx2, you need a better esc for the belt drive and motor set up you got. I just got done running my xmaxx and it is like 90 degrees here in fallon nevada and the truck ran like a champ didnt even break a sweat. I ran it for 30 mins in a skate park.
@@oscarmike131 nice! Yeah I might need a more powerful esc or a smaller motor
Hello my friend,
What you say about the flat Part on the shaft is right. On my xrt, whos much similar to the xmaxx in some cases, i Hit the lipo protection Mode when the Green light on the Esc Was blinking. That means, the power of the lipo batteries was collapsed. That means, the maximum discharge Ampere was exeeded. Means, you have to get better lipos with more maximum C rate. That 60c lipos youre using, is too less for the system and you need better Batteries like true 100c or 120c or better. There are some on the Web. That Was the same Problem like mine, you should try it out. Im sorry for my Englisch, im from germany. Hope we will fix everything, bye, m8
@@marc1981er yeah I really need to upgrade to some nicer batteries…probably around 100c discharge rate for this system
@@RCKnockoutYeah, right. You could Look for cnhl (China Hobbyline) theyre massiv Up to 120c. The one i got, 3s Lipo HV with Bit more Volt (more Power) with 120C, 6.000mah for Just 33€ (!!) each one and i got 2 of them for 66€ without even shipping cost. Just 3 days shipping and they got Warehouse in USA too, im Europe, Germany, where we all are on fire. Look for them, the price is Just rediculous...but they have Batteries with 9.000mah, 10.000mah and even 6s plant with 20.000nah...theyre more expensive for Sure. Still Untouchable price Performance.
@@RCKnockoutCZcams deleted my post, i hate when its doing it. The best batteries are cnhl (china hobbyline) they have Warehouses all over the world and the cheap price will surprising you, i promise..
You think I would be able to handle a Xmaxx I have been into rc cars for about a year and I have two
Xmaxx is an Awesome Rc!
@@RCKnockout do you think I would be able to handle it or Is it to big?
@@carson1011 I think you’d get used to it pretty quick
@@RCKnockout oh ok thanks for the advice
@@carson1011 you’re welcome
When you still Hit the throttle to maximum, you will loose your batteries and the lipo even can burn. The Transmission with the belt drive is too big for the lipo. Its not the Esc!! I go with 25/33 mod 1,5 gears and i had the same issues. I asked some Experienced people and they told me, the gear ist too massive for the lipo. And the belt drive is even bigger than mine. Gear down or get more Quality batteries with more c rate for discharge!! The Sound on your car i think the belt is jumping cause too less tension but not sure. The system has issues and i can not understand, pnwmadness is telling, use the drive on the Stock shaft with no flat Part by using Red loctite, that is nonsense. Btw, use faster servo with more torque 😂😂😊
Ah ok, there was too much tension, ok...First it seem to jump and like need more tension, ok. On the xrt it ismuch more complicated to install the belt drive, cause of less space. But i try it soon again and i have to use a higher motormount than the vitavon mount. But the thing about the lipo i think its true and it is not the cause of the Esc temperare it think. I bought cnhl batzeries with 120c and never got any Problem again. You used thermometer at the Esc? The Esc wont get to overheated that much in just few seconds. I think, its the lipo issue. Lipo protection Mode, Green light flashes. I use max 5 g2 hv, that Baby never able to overheat on even an xmax or xrt. Im on 8s and max5 g2 is up to 12s!! Gear down or Upgrade batterie
Edit: The gear like the belt drive is pretty much. What motor ure using in kV? 1100kv is much for that gearing and if you use 30/30 belt drive, would be way too much. I have 1100kv and 25/30 belt, that is pretty big for 1100kv, but possible! But 30/30 theres better 800kv, other is madness lol
Chris Olson is the guy to contact pwm
Not a fan of belt drives .. I waisted a lot of money and time .. belts stretch and there just a pain in the ass .. just go wit 1.0 gears made out of a good steel 👍👍👍 great info tho on ur vid ..
Yeah so far belt drive has been a pain…..I’ve stripped at least a dozen mod 1 stock gears….also I’ve stripped a few hardened steel ones as well….I think the only gears that could possibly hold up would be 1.5 mod
Your esc is to small for the motor Your running. It's going to continue to thermal shut down because it's not meant to run that big of a motor. You either need a bigger esc or a smaller motor
Ok thanks!
I run the max 6 and 1100 kv combo fine in my Xmaxx. More likely to be be gearing than the combo 👍
@@stuartmorgan4871 oh ok…..what gearing do you run?
@@RCKnockout 47 34 dude 👍💪👍
@@stuartmorgan4871 wow that’s surprising you haven’t had any heat issues
The belt being too tight is a bad thing, it puts lots of pressure on the motor bearings and/or bushing and other bearings and bushing, you need to find a happy medium not to tight not too loose!!
Yeah it’s very difficult to adjust the belt tightness…I think the belt was stretching so I had to constantly adjust it….I ditched the belt awhile ago actually…..it was just too much of a pain
Pully
Sounds like a turbocharged
Kinda lol 😂
It's over geared the 25 tooth on the motor is way to much
I might need to change it up
Belt will stretch
I suppose it will either stretch or break lol 😂
Show carro 👀 🛻🔥 💨 😃🥰👍🏻✌🏼👊🤛🏼
The belt drive is cool but it sucks that it isn't reliable 😕
Agreed!
Motor cogging because it's sensorless ...too big pinion pully .
You think so?
your belt has stretched and its slipping now lol goback to gears there more reliant in all situations
Yeah I switched to the Vitavon 1.5 mod gears
Good choice thats the only brand i use ehh a lil expensive on highend aluminium but its all werth it to me im a hobbyist
@@D.hobbyist yeah so far its held up well
Belt is too loose.
Why do you need a belt drive system? This is why I love nitro. None of this overkill applies. To hot, richen the needle. Dude these oversized RCs are just vacuum cleaners. Get a 1/8 scale fire breathing nitro. More exciting than this elephant.
Coming from someone who just came back from running a 4-Tec 3.3, let people enjoy their things and do what they want. I have both nitro and electrics
Lol. I used to run all nitro cars. Simply put.....constant headaches and gremlins... Electric. No comparison..if set up properly and maintenanced, like anything I suppose. Electric has it's faults to though👍
Dude you need a motor mount to adjust belt
So i’ve watch this whole video i think you are better off to changing that esc before it burns down on you. Switch to max 5 or mamba xlx2 and keep that same setup of your belt drive