Ford EGR Flow Testing (P0401, P0402, P0405)
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- The testing procedures shown in this video can be applied to any Ford, Lincoln or Mercury that uses a vacuum controlled EGR valve combined with a Delta Pressure Feedback EGR sensor (DPFE).
The vehicle being tested is a 2000 Ford Expedition with a 5.4L engine.
Engine Performance Diagnostics chapter 24
Symptoms : (typical)
- Check engine light (P0401 Insufficient EGR flow or P0402 excessive EGR flow)
- possible detonation or pre-ignition "pinging" complaints
Fix: (common problems)
- faulty DPFE sensor
- restricted intake passage for the EGR valve (the exhaust side of the EGR is almost never the issue, only the intake side will plug up with carbon)
- remove EGR and throttle body for typical cleaning of the passages
Testing procedures shown:
- How to identify solenoid circuit design (power or ground side switching)
- How to manually energize the EGR solenoid (EVR) and force the EGR valve to open
- How to determine if the EGR passages are clean
- How to test the DPFE sensor for proper operation
- How to test the computer transistor driver for the EVR solenoid
Tools used:
- Scanner (Solus Pro)
- OTC 3633 Mini Circuit Tester
www.jbtoolsale...
- Deluxe DMM w/Amp Shutters (AES# esi-582)
www.aeswave.com...
Related videos:
Faulty DPFE sensor • Ford EGR flow quick te...
Plugged EGR passage • How to test for EGR fl...
P0405 Case Study • P0405 EGR Sensor A Cir...
Playlists:
(Chapter 24) EGR Flow and System Tests
• (Chapter 24) EGR Flow ...
(Chapter 8) Pressure Sensor Testing, MAP, BARO, DPFE, fuel tank and rail pressure sensors
• (Chapter 8) Pressure S...
(Chapter 3) Transistors, Solenoids, Computer Controlled Output Testing
• (Chapter 3) Transistor...
For more information on this topic, I have written a “field manual” called Engine Performance Diagnostics which is available at www.scannerdanner.com as an eBook or paper book.
Want even more diagnostic training? Whether you are a DIY trying to fix your own car, someone looking to become an auto technician, or a current auto technician that wants to get more into diagnostics, subscribe to ScannerDanner Premium www.scannerdan... There is a 14 day free trial.
On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC.
Great explanation! I have been a G.M. Tech for over 30 years and your video is as good as any I have ever seen. Keep up the great work. These vehicles are very complexed and we need information like yours that is easy to understand.
Thank you!
@@ScannerDanner what's the name of the hose directly above the pcv hose.
@@atrausstyles3024 time frame please
Scanner Danner, i did all this from memory and diagnosed an EGR solenoid as bad, but i just realized i used the test light backwards, or opposite the way you did. I hooked up my alligator clip to the needle and touched ground with my test light. The light worked and i didn't get the engine yo stall or want to die, thus i figured the egr solenoid must be bad. My main question though, is, Is it possible to uee the test light backwards or will it affect anything negatively? I've never thought of it until now. Hope you see this!
@@iwishtobetexan6060i believe that is the same because you are grounding the control circuit anyway and is protect by the light bulb in the test light. The flow of current will be the same
From beginning to end, this video is probably to most comprehensive exposition of your methodology to be found throughout your videos. Thus, whereas there are some areas in other videos less than graphical, this one has from beginning to end captured what your techniques produce. In addition, what makes this particular video stand out, for me, is the structure, the structure that I find so friendly and repeatable.
Key: repeatable, I can go in the field and apply the same methodology.
Great Job
I did all the checks like shown of this great video. I did a screen shot from where the main power source. The fuse was pulled, thinking maybe it was a spare because a radio was installed and might of blown a fuse. This truck came no manual book. So I had no way but to look around for a fuse diagram. The diagram showed as that slot 33 is a spare. Anyways I placed a fuse and not only that it got rid of that code p0403 but it also got rid of p2197, p2195, p0155, p0135, p0446 and p0443. That moment was a great feeling. Thank you
Awesome
Thank the lord I found this video, my damn truck is throwing these codes and was told it was the EGR valve, of course replacing it didn't fix it. Thank you for the info!
Excellent video. You've explained the troubleshooting and especially how to test and verify which type of driver the ECM uses to drive the solenoid valve. Unlike some explanations one sees, it's clear that you actually understand the subject, and are therefore able to explain it properly. Thumbs up!
Thanks man. 16 years teaching at Rosedale Technical College has helped me communicate these subjects for sure.
DPFE sensor shows 1.03V is good. Specs on most Ford/Mercury is 0.8-1.2v signal wire at idle. Outside that replace.
mine reads ~4.0 volts at idle :( think I should replace it? Does that mean it thinks the EGR is open? I have P0402 on a Mustang, occasional rough idle, the reference voltage (bottom pin) is 5 Volts.
Very nice video man I have bachelors in automotive and it’s rare to find people that fully understand the systems and operation you got it great job !
That's a great lesson I've had a lot of problems lately with EGR valves and Japanese cars thanks for the help
Scanner Danner's videos are superb. Nothing but pure knowledge
Connect an ammeter in series to the test light and touch it on battery positive and negative. You will not need to run a resistor in series to the test light as most conventional test lights draw less than 300ma. And 300ma is not enough to damage computer output driver transistors.
@ladillando1 The great thing about this field is there are so many different ways to test components. There is no one right way. Thanks for your input.
Great video guys. Very informative and detailed. Right to the point without unnessecary chatter. Kudos🤘🏼
Thanks man and there was nothing wrong with this one, I was just showing procedures. I'll do some more like this. I was actually planning on it too.
Thank you for the video. My van had a P0401, I tested the EGR with vacuum looking for a stall, just got a good drop on RPM but when you said stumble, I decided to check the passages at the TB and it was badly clogged. So, as you point out, has to be a good drop and not just a RPM drop. Thank you.
I discovered that the vacuum solenoid valve is actually adjustable. I had a P0401 code, a new DPFE aftermarket, which I think may be failing. Uncertain about that. The DPFE just tells you if the EGR is working OK. I wanted to see if the EGR was working, despite the code.
I took the solenoid valve out, took off the cap, and rapped it sharply 20 or 30 times, until dirt quit falling out. There is a tiny air filter under the cap , it should be cleaned periodically. This air filter fits around a steel tube, which can be screwed in or out. That tube is a vent when the solenoid is open. When it's closed vacuum is routed to the EGR.
It's normal for there to a tiny bit of vacuum at the EGR diaphragm, I found that if after cleaning, it gets too far screwed in, it cuts off the vacuum completely. So, engine running at an idle I back it out just until it effected the idle in the slightest.
Testing: I took a long piece of hospital oxygen hose , put a TEE in the vacuum hose to the EGR, brought the hose to my lap with a vacuum gauge, and drove. You can watch the gauge and see exactly when the EGR opens and closes, and fine tune the solenoid valve if needed.
So, ....check engine light has not come back on, but if it does I will know that it is the DPFE., which as pointed out, are a real common failure.
The partial disassembly of that solenoid valve is probably something few people would think of but you would be amazed at the quantity of very fine dirt after 300k.
Excellent. Unlike so many on YT that speak in generalities too much, SD speaks and warns; you will FRY your computer if you do this... Some circuits are 5V and some are 12V, and 12 will fry a 5V circuit and possibly the PCM.
Do an exhaust backpressure test on that. If the cat is plugged up this can cause the excessive EGR flow code on the Fords. I have a video on how to do a back pressure test using the DPFE hoses as the place to connect a pressure gauge.
Great video. This confirms my findings. I don’t have a scanner to monitor voltages. I’m guessing my computer is not grounding my valve solenoid because I still get p0401 insufficient flow. No blockage, EGR good, new sensor and solenoid controller. I’ll check my ground to computer and see if it gets a voltage drop from 13.2v to almost none when accelerating. Again thanks for the eye opener.👍🏻
What ended up being your problem?
Hey Paul, you have Explained very clearly about the EGR System testing using the Test Light and warning, I'm really excited about your Channel coz I'm gaining more knowledge, Skills and Experience
Thank you Danner
You've been binge watching! Awesome
@lucky51762 To each his own i guess. The prob. with the hand vacuum pump is it doesn't test the solenoid or solenoid circuit. Not to mention the solenoid control wire and PCM driver. My attempt was to show a complete diagnosis, not just the EGR and passages. I like the hand vac. pump method too, but people need to realize there is more to test than that when you have an EGR code.
I'd love to see the diagnosis on the 'Module" Style EGR.
When I'm working in any Ford vehicle with EGR flow problem I do is connect a vacuum gauge parallely to the EGR valve using a T, and a voltmeter to EGR valve solenoid. After I running a KOER test. In this fashion I'm checking the EGR valve, and solenod for, mechanic and electric problems. If the problem is the solenoid, I remove its cap and puting my finger on the vent port I'm checking for EGR valve passages clogged. You don't need an additional multimeter, use the Verus for all the tests.
Great video, very detailed, I'm certified master tech with Ford from many yrs and I'm having issue with 2000 4.6 expedition code p0405, only that code ! every pinpoint test lead me nowhere , and I'm frustrated about it. My reading are opposite than yours and i can't understand why! Once I activate the EGREVR 100%OPEN by using FORD IDS my dpfe voltage drop to .13 v throwing p0405 code. Yes the passage are clean no sludge in the engine and during egrevr open test engine dropps rpm ( indicating no obstruction) dpfe tubes great condition. Any help will be sincerely appreciate..
If seen bad dpfe sensors do this. Also if the hoses get reversed on the tube or sensor maybe?
@@ScannerDanner i really appreciate your reply and i subscribe to your channel because your videos are great, about the dpfe sensor i try to replace it already and the position of the hoses is correct. Egr open voltage goes extremely low.. this is driving me nuts! Thx again
Hey Fed, I’m having a pretty much identical issue on my 2002 4.6 F150. Have you been able to get anywhere troubleshooting yours?
One of the best videos I've ever seen.
+Jimmy Pea thanks brother, many more just like it
I have 12 volts on one side and 2.3 on the other side (unplugged).
Everything is new no vacuum leaks.
Getting a code 327 egr circuit below minimum voltage. Runs decent but got check light.
Barely pulling vacuum at the egr Less than 1lb at any throttle position .
91 ford f150 5.8
What is the voltage plugged in and backprobing? Also when measured at the PCM itself
Most likely not as you did this RPM drop test at idle when the EGR is not even in operation. Check your compression in that cylinder.
Another great video. I've also tested DPFEs directly with a small vac to one of the ports. My Thunderbird had tubes that were completely blocked, so obviously this test would be inconclusive about a bad DPFE.
Also.. Should the EGR solenoid hold vacuum at KOEO? KOER? One of my units seems to be venting.
A merry Christmas for you and your family sir, thank you for your enormous contribution to automotive education ...😎
How much would it typically cost to diagnose egr problems?
Great video explaining everything. My man you are on your game. Thanks a lot.
I love my Verus, problem is my boss paid for it. So I don't know if I can give you unbiased information. I will say as far as scanners go that there is no better tool on the market for the aftermarket tech. than the snap-on scanners. (Solus, Solus Pro, Solus Ultra, Verus, Verdict)
BTW I find the Verus to be very user friendly and I absolutely love it!
If you get EGR POS. sensor codes, replace the TPS! If you have vacuum at the EGR at idle,the TPS is causing vacuum at the EGR. The TPS is causing the idle to go up a little causing vacuum at the EGR.
Ummm, no.
DonziGT230 It could be the charcoal canister purge valve on Ford's that have one. A TPS misreading throttle angle might tell the computer that the throttle is open more than it is and cause the computer to send vacuum to the EGR at idle. It might cause the idle to be sped up causing vacuum to the EGR. A bad ISC motor can cause high idle and improper vacuum to the EGR.
you established that it wasnt the egr for the low rough idle ...so what was the problem??? . i have the same car and problem
Do you even need the scanner or can you just listen for the poor idle and determine it using that?
Question? Where did you acquire the wiring diagram?
Fords use a normally open (to the atmosphere) vent solenoid, so KOEO and KOER it will not hold any vacuum.
Thanks for the video lesson!
i replaced dpfe sensor. ill test all three of them tomorrow. i noticed while driving the egrv percentage sometime works and sometime doesnt and dpef voltage only reaches 1.3-1.5. i do have exhaust flow coming out through egr pipe and also have vacuum coming from intake manifold. after watching the video you mention. i think i have a short on dpfe harness. evr works from modis test.
precise. simple, excellent lesson
I hope you can help me. I have a 2000 mustang v6, I've replaced the DPFE and solenoid but while driving the EGR keeps opening at low engine speeds (not at idle). I checked DPFE voltage at idle as well when I manually open the egr with a vacuum pump, it is always reading at 3.4-3.8 volts regardless if the EGR is open or not, yes the engine is up to temp. I know the EGR valve itself works due to the engine stalling when I apply vacuum, it holds vacuum too. I cleaned the egr and egr pipe to the intake. both DPFE hoses are are in good shape. I had an intermittent P0402, this is driving me nuts, car only has 106km thank you in advance
So your new DPFE sensor is always reading 3.4-3.8 volts? This number is WAY to high for a closed valve position. With the key on, give me voltage readings of all three wires of the DPFE sensor with the sensor plugged in and backprobing
@@ScannerDanner thanks for the response. So I replaced the dpfe again since posting my comment, with a different brand. At first it read 1.06 volts from the top pin with the key on, worked great, for a few hours... now it failed, top pin reads 2.16v, middle is 0.00v, bottom is 5.16v key on. Is there a brand that actually works longer than a few hours of use?
@@robwest1178 you need to test your car for a restricted exhaust. A plugged cat will cause excessive exhaust psi to run into the DPFE hoses and it will cook this sensor. I have videos on testing for this using the DPFE sensor hoses.
@@ScannerDanner I checked the exhaust when i replaced the clutch, all good there. After going through two aftermarket sensors which failed within hours, I went to the junkyard and got three original FoMoCo sensors, tested the first one and installed in the junkyard parking lot none-the-less. This pony has been running perfect for about 3 weeks now. Lesson learned, don't bother with any cheapo aftermarket DPFE, only a factory original one will last. Thanks again for helping diagnose.
@@robwest1178 never came back on? I bought a aftermarket DPFE and a entire new EGR valve and it came back I'm about to buy new tubes?
Great video, now I know how to test the EGR system, if only you could show where you connect the dvm and test
light...ground or battery that would be great. After all you always warn us about burning the ECM.
All voltmeter checks would be on a dc scale, 20v setting, red lead to each of the DPFE wires individually and black to battery ground. The test light was also connected to battery ground. It must be an incandescent light to be able to energize the solenoid. You won't hurt that driver with a 200ma nominal amperage, like most lights are today. But check it first czcams.com/video/gEQnKNLlcFQ/video.html
thanks for your great video and very helpful to understand how the sensor circuit works
I need your advise(opinion) about the Snap on Verus that you are using to test
Some guys criticize about this scanner - high price tag but doesn't cover the others do -
would you give me the impartial advise about the scanner/scope ?
thanks a lot
Any problem or inferior things comparing other scanners or scopes
is it ease to use ?
Thanks in advance for any help or insight you may have to my question! Im really quite stuck on this one. also when I take the vac line off the egr and hook a hose up to it and suck on it, the engine wants to stall, so I fig the EGR is working. I then notiiced a small nick in the wire sheathing on one of the wires going to the EGR solenoid, I taped it up but I wonder if that could also be the cause of the problem? Thanks again!
maybe the signal wire from dpfe sensor harness has a short. because i know it has 5v disconnected and connect it reads 1v
Excellent explanation thanks so much, cheers from Guatemala
Disconnect the vacuum hose and at idle, there shouldn't be vacuum. At 1200 RPM'S, there should be vacuum. If not, check the vacuum purge valve. If the engine smooths out when you disconnect the hose at idle, it's NOT the EGR. Hook up a Mityvac to the EGR and pump up 5" of vacuum. It should hold. If it leaks down, it's the EGR valve. With the engine running at 1000 RPM'S, pump up 5" of vacuum. The engine should stumble. If not, the EGR is clogged or the passage is clogged or the EGR isn't opening.
Is 12.75. on the control wire to turn it on and off is . 05 when I rev it up it goes up to point 0 6. Maybe
. 07 does that mean that the computer is not working properly. Or maybe a break in The wire somewhere
Excellent video. I have a 99 Expedition 5.4L with a P0401. I applied vacuum to the EGR valve and the engine stalls. I cleaned the EGR ports thinking they would be clogged and they were not. I tested all the vac lines and replaced a few that were cracked. I replaced the DPFE sensor and the code went away for a short time. Now it's back. I am going to test the solenoid following your vid. How do I test the DPFE sensor voltage without a scanner? Which wire should I connect my meter to? Thanks for the great videos.
I have another video on testing the dpfe with a voltmeter. Just search either dpfe or egr as a keyword
Got a question that I pray u can ancer. Ive got a 2002 ford explorer, 4.6 V8, had a few days of sputtering off the line on harder accell. Then cel poped up, P0402. Excessive EGR flow. Bought a new dpfe sensor, no change. cleaned EGR as much as i could, no change, checked all vac lines, no leaks. Took off whole throtle body and cleaed it, along with checking and leaning all my plugs... no change.I have a smal hole in my mufler that is getting a little louder, any chance that could affect the egr?
your video was extremly helpful...my problem is after i applied the test light to activate the solenoid, my DPFE voltage dropped??? whats up with that? the reference voltage was present with both solenoid and DPFE...I have a 2000 f150 5.4... the truck stalled immediatly so the passages i assume are clear...help a brother out
What was the DPFE voltage at idle and when you energized the solenoid?
what were your symptoms before you did the test? or should I say, why did you do this test?
I've never seen that tube clog up. It has a calibrated orifice in between the two tubes (in the main tube) you didn't drill that out did you? If you did, this is your problem.
I appreciate your awesome vids and verbalizing exact instructions-none of that-"Uh, uh, ummm, ummm" that is so common in other tutorial You Tube vids. You present well and at a great pace. My comment or question, I suppose, is what about all us bottom-rung, shade-tree brokanics out here with out one of them thar fancy doo-hickey scanner danner gizmos? Guys like me don't know zip from a good scanner. Whata we do? Anyhoo, keep up that great work. Looking forward to many more informative vids.
Subscribe to my forum brother. I have DYI guys from all over the world sharing information with each other on what tools they are using and how they compare to the professional stuff.
Thank you!
scannerdanner.com/forum/diagnostic-tools-and-techniques.html
It is free to join
So, why does it run bad when activated if it's a function...bad egr? Or out of normal process computer didn't expect
It is never opened at idle. I forced it to open when it shouldn't be ro test for proper flow
it almost stall the truck. the egr tube(small tube that goes to DPFE sensor were clogged. i cut it open and drilled it out then weld it back. i ordered a new one. if you disconnect the tube from egr and start it up shouldnt you hear exhaust leak at idle? i only hear giving when i give it gas.
I just looked up this code for you. It is an EVR solenoid circuit fault. With the key on you should have 12v on both wires with the solenoid plugged in. Watch this video "2002 Mazda 626 EVAP Purge Solenoid P0443" I know it isn't the same solenoid but it is the identical test you want to do for this code
Had a P0401 code for a long time on a Ranger 2.5L engine, replaced the EGR valve and now have a 0402 code...truck runs great, no issues! Any idea on next step??
Hi not sure if you can help i have a focus duratorq turbo diesel common rail 1.6l 2006/2007
I am getting egr valve stuck open p042e-62
egr control circuit low p0489-62
and also glow plugs control circuit p0380-61
I only get 5 volts from the wire on connector on egr but is that not meant to be 12v.
if I remove the top part of the egr and manually move the valve position sensor with my hand i can see on the diagnostic software forscan thst the egr valve position voltage goes up to 98.8% no idea what volts that is and when I let go it springs back and goes to 0 but still doesn't activate on car and just says low circuit a egr stuck open.
I have cleaned out egr it moves freely I have disconnected glow plug switch but still gets same codes also checked wires to it and connected ok
do you think the cause could be not enough power getting to the components as 5v seems low for a power line
I've even cleaned all earth up also
and sometimes I get u0073 can com bus fault under pcm
if egr is broke could that cause the other faults
all come under pcm codes
Thanks
No problem, let me know how it goes
simple enough, well done
I have the same issue on my 2003 ford expedition. Can you help me out.
What about p0406 04 Expedition 5.4 2v- EGR Circuit "A" High? Same tests? I've literally replaced everything with EGR and still get the code. I reset the PCM and it's drives fine. It drives fine with the code too. No rough idle. Only noticeable symptom is the brakes are shakey. The code is intermittent.
After watching and reading the comments I feel as if I should goto the pick and pull and get a handful of DPFE until one keeps the code away. Any other possible tests I can run or places to look?
Also, the pcv hose that runs from bank 1 to the vacuum solenoid- there's a "canister looking piece that ends up sitting behind the Throotle body/intake. Any idea of what that is/does and if it can fail?
Thanks in advance. Love the videos 🤙
With the key on engine off, give me voltage readings on all 3 wires of the DPFE sensor. Plugged in and backprobing. I can definitely help you if I have those numbers.
one of the tube for the DPFE measures vacuum? maybe im not getting enough vacuum to those small tube? i think i have a good vacuum coming out intake manifold to egr. using my finger to close it while apply vacuum to egr it sucks pretty good. i wouldnt think its clogged after the egr. should i take the intake manifold to clean it up?
The hand pump at the EGR isn't going to detect a bad vacuum line.
Excellent rundown
I have a 5.4L 1999 ford expedition and the check engine light came on , i grabbed a obd2 scanner and the only code that came up was P0401 , the one that came off the suv was a white DPFE sensor 🤔 . I bought a new DPFE sensor and it was a black one from Autozone . I cant for the life of me find a white DPFE sensor lol , who knows what ,where he bought that white DPFE sensor from . Now im waiting on the check engine light to go away 👍🏼
You don't need to worry about the color of the DPFE sensor you bought. You'll be fine
I have a 2000 excursion po 401 po 402 replaced everything and still have the problem
What does the engine do when you open the EGR valve at idle? I showed how to force it open in this video. This is a critical step
Hello I hope you're doing well I'm having a hard time 😅 finding the egr valve on 2002 mazda b3000 now I'd wish I was a mechanic
Google will be your friend. I do not know that information offhand, sorry
With the EGR closed both tubes should have exhaust gas pressure not vacuum.
Hello Paul...Im looking at a MB 2001 S430 wiring diagram for the air suspension valve body, all 6 wires go to the pneumatic suspension control module and I dont see any feed wire fro fuse/power. Is this a powerside circuit as all go to the module? Thanks.
Hey Paul I know you probably have answered this in other videos. But gotta ask that did you connect your test light lead into the positive terminal. Because it's a ground control circuit to energize the circuit?
He clipped the test light's wire to a ground point so that when connecting the test light probe to the control terminal of the solenoid valve, it would pull to ground, thus providing the current path from the "constantly hot" wire (the one on the right) through the solenoid coil, and then through the test light, and finally to ground. This simulates what the ECM's output does in this particular instance. The ECM has what us electronics types would call an "open collector" output which means that it pulls to ground when energizing the load it's driving. This is also sometimes referred to as an "active low" output.
I have never replaced a ford computer for a dpfe sensor code.
DiD you replace the Dpfe sensor. DiD you make sure that you DiDn't reverse the Dpfe sensor hoses? Watch my latest video on dpfe senser testing on a ford focus it Will help you
I got a question my 03 expedition got p0405 code i energized it grounding it like that. the engine revs up it doesnt stall. Could it be clogged. Also it wasnt idling it would stall on its own
Thanks brother! And thanks for getting back to me so fast! U da man!
it would have been nice if the ports were clogged with carbon since the most likely egr fault on that engine is a p0401 for that or a bad DPFE for an example nice video anyhow . your students are lucky when i was in school my instructor had been teaching since carborator and points days and had nothing too offer but books and videos no experiance
Scanner Danner, i did all this from memory and diagnosed an EGR solenoid as bad, but i just realized i used the test light backwards, or opposite the way you did. I hooked up my alligator clip to the needle and touched ground with my test light. The light worked and i didn't get the engine yo stall or want to die, thus i figured the egr solenoid must be bad. My main question though, is, Is it possible to uee the test light backwards or will it affect anything negatively? I've never thought of it until now. Hope you see this!
that test has two factors: 1. the resistance of the solenoid (current flow) 2. the resistance of the test light bulb you are using
You also MUST know if the circuit is being switched to ground or switched to power by the ECM. From memory these older Fords were all ground side switched, so test light to ground and touch on the control wire. If your light did not energize the solenoid, either you were not on the control wire or your test light wasn't able to carry the current flow needed for that solenoid to energize. You said your bulb was lit. Was it just as bright as on the feed wire?
@@ScannerDanner my bulb was lit when touching the control wire (the one that gets ground from PCM to activate the solenoid), but I didn't test it on the feed side with the light, only a multimeter, so I'm not sure if there is a difference in brightness. I ended up removing the piece, getting two wires and using the battery as a sort of way to power and test the solenoid ( I do not have a power probe). My solenoid didn't move so it also made me feel more confident in my diagnosis that my solenoid was bad. however it is a brand new solenoid ( a cheap one from rockauto). I recently replaced it, and check engine light gone temporarily, maybe a hundred miles. So I am wondering if (assuming I'm correct and the solenoid is bad) perhaps there is something else wrong that may have caused my solenoid to fail so soon, or maybe it's just cheap and I should use a different one.
As for the dpfe sensor, when unplugged I have ground and 2 5v wires. Then, when plugged in I tried removing vacuum hoses and grounding with the test light on the solenoid (what we mentioned above) but on my multimeter I saw no change in voltage at the dpfe sensor. The return voltage stayed at about .10 I believe. I was quite overwhelmed but I think I'm gonna have to redo all my tests. However, does the method on your videos require the vehicle to be operating temperature? I literally just learned about closer loop right after doing my tests so I'm thinking I may also have been wrong in everything because I did some with vehicle cold and others with vehicle warm. Sorry this is long, I am very grateful for your previous response. Have a goodnight sir!
I didn't unplug the hoses on the dpfe sensor at the same time as grounding the solenoid. I actually did them separately but neither changed the voltage on the sensor return wire. I was actually watching other videos as well to see if they had any other methods, which is where I saw this. I'm currently working on an 04 expedition 5.4l. I also used a vacuum pulp to pull vacuum on EGR with hose disconnected, and it held, so I think that my EGR is good according to another video. I hardly felt any suction from the hose on top though, and even when grounding the solenoid (which I am sure it was bad) I couldn't feel a difference in the suction. But at the hose connecting into the solenoid, the suction was 20hg easy on idle. I basically found that all my issues lead to the solenoid, but I am currently confused on the dpfe sensor. I actually don't know how it works really. Hope this wasn't all too confusing, I'm pretty confused myself haha. I'm thinking of making an enormous checklist with steps for me to knockout on a weekend off so I have time to think about it.
@@ScannerDanner also I know the basics of EGR and evap, but I've never had any real experience until now so I feel I may be missing somethings or perhaps using the wrong terms.
@@iwishtobetexan6060have you considered a plugged passage? When you manually open the EGR valve it should stall the engine
i'll see what i come up with. the control wire is viloet in color and it goes the the pcm. the other wire is white and red. That wire goes to a fuse.
just a question Paul how can I know what is the current flow of my test light? what if I use a 5 or 6 K homs resistor to low the current on my test light?
I did this exact test on my 98 ranger 2.5L and grounded the control solenoid and the engine ran rough. The DPFE and EGR solenoid(vacuum regulator) have been changed. I think the computer is not working. Is is time for a shop to test it with one of those snap-on scanners. I have that P0401 code
Could I find the wire going to the computer and check the integrity of the wiring from computer to connector?
i have a 2001 E150 4.2. code P0401. i did all this test with my modis, EVR works.(tested it and it idle rough but my DPFE sensor does not change volts) the most it changes is 1.3 maybe seen 1.5 while driving any suggestion. egr tube was clogged the little ones connects to DPFE sensor. clean that. also cleaned the other side going to intake. i came to a conclusion that the computer is no good
Hi Paul with po401 code EGR is possible to have rich or lean or only a misfire will do the rich or lean condition?..
Have you ever seen an EGR tube where the orifice between the two DPFE tubes came loose and out of place? I have tried 3 new Motorcraft DPFE sensors, and voltage remains at 1 volt even though I have verified EGR flow! I have tried checking differential pressure testing and cant see any difference in pressures of the two tubes. My truck is a '98 Expedition. My scan tool is showing up to 90% EGR flow. I have the 5 volt reference voltage at the DPFE and have also traced the signal wire for continuity to the PCM and backprobed it, shows 1 volt whatever I try
if you pull a vacuum on the upper hose, with the key on engine off, the DPFE voltage should rise. Does it?
I have never seen a tube issue, doesn't mean it can't happen, but even if it was there, you should still see some movement of the signal when the EGR opens.
So you've confirmed that the EGR has flow and it just about stalls the engine when you open it right?
@@ScannerDanner Thanks for your reply. I'll try that. I can easily stall the engine using any of the methods described. Grounding the vacuum solenoid stalls the engine, but the test light wouldn't. I tee a compound gauge on both hoses individually and they dont seem to change from less than 1psi.
@@plmbrbob make sure your DPFE hoses are not reversed too.
@@ScannerDanner I replaced the EGR tube and it solved the problem. I have 2 engine monitors not ready; Catalyst and evap. Can I pass emissions or have to still do more drive cycles?
@@plmbrbob I think after 2001 you can only have 1 monitor not ready. Nice job man! I've never seen that before
Hey so if my DPFE goes from 1.05 (V) with the ignition on and sky rockets to 3.89-4.00 (V) while the engine is running does that mean I change the DPFE sensor? The vehicle also completely dies out when I manually energize the solenoid.
So you see this voltage rise before even forcing the EGR valve to open?
@@ScannerDanner yes, with the vehicle in idle it doesn't have a steady ready of 1.05 (V) like yours.
Hey Dan, I did the procedure but without a scanner. It did everything well to my knowledge, brought the ground to the ground side wire and the engine almost stalled. Seems that everything is functioning good. However without the scanner I do not know my voltage on the DPFE and cannot command the computer to actuate the solenoid. Is it fair to say that I cannot complete this procedure to find the fault without the scanner? What scanner do you use or recommend? Great video. Thank you sir.
2003 ford escape, 0403 code: Exhaust gas recirculation circuit malfunction.
+Roman Lastname no you can finish. Take a DMM and measure the dpfe sensor signal manually.
The computer driver for the solenoid never goes bad but you can hook the the EVR solenoid control wire and test drive it and watch for a voltage change. If you're feeling ambitious :-)
+Roman Lastname In the description of this video are links to other videos I've done on these systems, including how to test the DPFE sensor with a digital voltmeter (DMM)
+ScannerDanner Hey Dan, thanks for the info. Im getting confused on which wire I'm supposed to be checking. I have a brown/LtGreen, orange and a brown white. Which is the signal? Thanks again.
+Roman Lastname should be the one with the green tracer (Ford tip, the signal wires on their sensors use a green tracer).
Here is the wiring just in case I'm wrong
1. 5v reference (steady and unchanging near 5 v)
2. Signal wire (around .5 to .8 volt with no EGR flow and over 4 volts with full EGR flow
3. Sensor ground (less than .1 of a volt and steady)
+ScannerDanner thanks, we are reading 0.9v with no egr flow and a fluctuating 2.5-3.8v at flow. Looks like a bad dpfe sensor. Gonna change it and see what happens. Thanks Dan, you the man.
good day idol.... can i ask a question where can i get a trusted wiring diagram.....
Where should I plug my scanner to scan my ford endeavor
The P0401 code shouldn't have anything to do with rich or lean conditions. Well, at least not at idle. I suppose if the EGR is not flowing at cruising speed when it normally is, there could be some fuel trim corrections due to the lack of EGR flow.
Also Are you sure you're getting enough e g r flow. When you energized that solenoid it should just about stall the truck
So how is a car grounded when it's on rubber tires?
The battery is the source and the return, or ground. The body of the car, the frame and block, are all part of the ground circuit, that leads back to the battery
how do you clear the code and what do you if all the parts in the system are new but it still runs like crap
Dear god I understand this more than I understand my gf's logic. 🤔
hahahaha
Hahaha Actually it was well explained, but he explained it so well, we like to jump to the conclusion and drone out everything he’s saying and wanted to get right to it without all the other important information LMAO
I have the same issue with my Ford Expedition. Can you help.
Yep. Do the tests I did first. At least the flow test and then some voltage measurements on the DPFE sensor
I have a 93 Ford bronco 5.8 L. It fires up fine and after running it for 20 minutes. I shut it down. After 20 minutes of sitting when I go to re-fire it up, it is very rough almost like it is going to conk out and then it’s smooth out after a while. It only does this after it has been sitting after being warmed up for 20 minutes. Could this be my EGR valve?
Unlikely the EGR. Winter and summer blend fuels can reek havoc on these older Fords. When did this start?
Can you drive through the rough running condition? In other words does it smooth out under load?
@@ScannerDanner yes after it smooths out its fine. Just starts up rough after being fully warmed up.
@@dirtyeric2 coolant temp sensor put of range, leaking fuel psi regulator, map sensor issue, fuel psi bleed down problem, winter blend fuel being used with warm ambient temps
@@ScannerDanner i replaced the ignition coil, map sensor, engine coolant temp sensor all motorcraft. I haven’t checked fuel pressure regulator yet or remote ICM. Does same thing all year long.
danner my dpfe voltage at idle was .6..according to haynes manual that is within spec. (.2-.7)
And you said it dropped from there with egr open? You need a DPFE sensor.
So if my truck does what this does when you activate the egr one of them things or 2 are bad right? Mine does not wanna idle very well and sometimes throws check engine light with a bad miss windows stop working at the same time and it flashcs 4wd light on start up.. Acts alot worse when cold starting
I wouldn't be looking at the EGR at all. I need to know what code is setting when all of this is happening to guide further. Clear all codes first, then recreate the problem.
I have an 02 escape 3.0 V6. I did everything you did in this video exactly the same but my solenoid won’t engage when grounding with the test light. It will engage when I remove the cover and plug the hole with my finger. Solenoid is new and voltages are the same on the back of connector as the front side which is battery voltage on the right wire and 1.09 on the left wire. Any idea why I can’t engage the solenoid by doing this method?
With the key on, and the solenoid OFF, there should be 12v on both wires with the solenoid plugged in, backprobing. Let's start there.
I found the problem watching another one of your videos. I was using an LED test light. Switched to an ammeter and idol got rough with no change in the DPFE voltage. Heading to the part store to get a new DPFE. Thank you for making these videos! Would be lost without them.
As you found out, LED test lights are pretty useless. 95% of the time I use an incandescent light.
So what was the problem and how you fix it? Thank you
Pretty sure I covered it
Where have you been all my CZcams?
To advanced for a beginner theres got to be a easier way once you learn this stuff its gold but in the meantime it will take months or years to learn i love scanner danner hes the best but just way way to advanced for a beginner
I believe it was you who just said the same thing on my newest video. Was it you?
You should consider signing up for my classes i offer on my website. Sign up for the free trial and then immediately cancel and you won't be charge the $11/month. This way you'll get a full 14 days to watch some classes. I suggest starting in Chapter 3, as it pertains, in part, to this video and the procedures I've done. I bet you will start to feel different. And it does NOT take years and years to learn this stuff my friend.
www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
ARE you here local in High Point North Carolina I need someone to look at mines
No sir, I'm in Pittsburgh Pa