Antifouling, new rubbing strips and boat show
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- čas přidán 25. 05. 2019
- In this video I antifoul the hull of the steel trawler then Arn and I install the new timber rubbing strips on the sponsons. After that I duck up to the Sanctuary Cove boat show in Queensland to take a quick look around.
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I have been trying to figure out what it is about your videos that is so appealing...and have concluded that it's the way that you speak to us, like we are there with you. You have figured out how to put the "real"into reality TV. 30 years ago I lived on an 8 meter Prowler Command Bridge, on the other side of the planet in Toronto, Canada for 8 years, but not until your videos, 30 years later, have I started to miss it, and want to live it all over again. Cheers to you for what you are giving the thousands like me that literally can't wait for your next upload.
Thanks mate. Glad you've been enjoying the vids. I guess I talk to the camera like you guys are there because it makes me feel less lonely when I'm out there working by myself. We both win. :)
Out of all currently running CZcams boat building shows, Dangar Marine is #1 because it makes nautical noobs like me feel like I could realistically accomplish this size of a project.
You wanna see something that will blow your mind on boat building channels? Check this out:
czcams.com/channels/PTQ5iWOL1F0KLY09JmovfQ.html
idk why i enjoy this series so much, i am far from into boats. I think the in depth restoration is just really satisfying
Agree. I'm hooked too. A lot has to do with his thought process and options to get the job done the best way possible which makes it very satisfying. Job well done Captain.
honestly one of the best youtube channels, straight to the point, awesome info, and just a generally affable guy spending his time with us. as soon as i figure out a way to buy this guy a coffee, tea beer, whatever i will support this channel, i would posit that viewers of this channel may enjoy the "tips from a shipwright" channel, also stew may benefit from some of his steaming videos where he uses bags instead of pvc tubes to slowly pull in the wood with clamps, ratchet straps etc.. I never comment but his last video about the rover and the tasteful way in which he acknowledged the way we helped him, made this one of the most real youtube channels, cheers from the pacific northwest! and consider visiting up here on your route 66 tour!
Thanks Rick, I do enjoy the Tips from a Shipwright videos. :)
The timber rubbing strips looks amazing, the bottom half of the boat is looking like a boat again.
Can't wait to see the rudder and prop in again!
So satisfying watching you pull the tape off, glad you left the footage in rather than just tell us
It's my favourite bit! :)
The boat with wheels was just nuts.....😁
Thanks for the video. 👍
I wish I had found this rebuild series 2 years from now so I could just binge watch the entire thing at once. This business of waiting for new episodes weekly/bi-weekly drives me crazy. Good Stuff!!!
so wait 2 years and binge watch hen.
Talking of bing worthy boat building etc have a look for Acorn to Arrabella www.acorntoarabella.com/project
so true!
fortnightly
@@jossmaxwell00 thats my least favorite...
Looking great! The wood looks like mahogany. I had to smile when you said to keep the wood natural. I believe we think alike. Good or bad..... who cares. Have a beer on me!
Thanks mate. I'm happy for it to go a bit grey, I just don't like the look of the old painted ones.
Can't wait to see this thing running on the water !!
Who else is annoyed at the people that give Stu a thumbs down? Stu I have learned so much from you. Keep up the great videos with sound information. You are the best.!.
No normal person would take anyone that voted down one of Stu's videos seriously?
Some people are just to ignorant to worry about.
Yet the people who vote down do more good for the channel than the VAST majority (84,000/88,000 total views) of people who do not vote at all. Up or down are the EXACT same positive result for the channel. All that matters on those is the interaction, unless ofc you get all downs. But really, have you ever seen that happen? So the real question is, did you vote at all? and if no then why not?
Retired wooden boat builder here, with your rubbing strip use the old one for the hole locations (as said before here) START at the pointy end, use the old ones for the compound cut at the bow, then it a lot easier to bend them, with "steam" as you work your way aft, the last 1/2 you are only bending in one plane, not 3, as you will be doing at the bow. Easier to start at the bow using the long aft end as a lever to bend around the forward end of the sheer line where it has the most curvature and twist. Then the aft end is a breeze. especially as you don't have full length timber an you have to make a joint, where you might well have to either add another nut welded to the hull, or make a joggled scarf over the last available fastener to be able to bring both timbers together. Just my $0.02 of help for you. Great series any way mate cant wait until she is in the water and Ur happy with her.
Hey mate. I was planning to take them off to oil them anyway so I'll start at the bow when reinstalling and see how it goes. Was planning to use the originals as a template but it was quite awkward due to their permanent curve now.
@@DangarMarine The way to do that is with strips of 1/8 ply (or any other thin crap wood lying around) that are the same width as the inside of the old strakes, about 1.5 meters long, the staple these to the old strakes, overlap & staple these together, then drill through the templates and wallah you have your hole positions. some times one has to go to left field to come back on track, keep up the good work.
Thanks mate. That's a great idea. Next time! :)
Loving these videos. Always waiting for the next one. I just love your style and attitude towards the way you do things. If I lived down under I would have loved to visit and lend a hand for a couple of weeks.
Thanks mate. Glad you've been enjoying the vids. :)
Thanks for the “fix” Stu. Good to see you getting a break from the project. I think you could sell DangarMarine stamped phone “device” stands made from pieces of your old rubbing strips and snow globes of the rust and garnet mixture for Christmas. Think about it, could be HUGE! 😉
Love your product ideas. :)
Painting tip for a crisp line where two colors meet: Paint with color #1, going past the meeting point. Tape. Paint along edge of tape with the same color, #1. Then paint with color #2. That coat of color #1 after taping will seal the edge of the tape so color #2 can't bleed under it. In your case, paint the blue further down, tape, another coat of blue on the bottom edge of the tape, then the black anti-foul.
Looking good, Stu. When I install fresh rub rails I start at the bow. The most bending occurs as the beam widens and having the long end unattached gives greater leverage to make the bend. Having had boats since 1962 I've done my share of rewiring. A marine electrician friend of mine taught me to always run a complete circuit for each electrical item to and from the circuitbreaker panel. The only common ground should be at that panel. Common grounds tend to fail when located willy-nilly all over the boat. Salt air is a corosion maker so coat your conections with "Monkey Spit", slang for "Gayco", an aircraft and marine contact sealer that looks like an oily bit of grey silicone, or "Monkey Spit". You will use more wire with this system, but electronic failures will be rare and last many years. A white bootstripe above the antifouling will look nice and break up all that dark area. How's the engine comming along? See you on the next one.
Starting at the bow makes so much sense, when I reinstall them after oiling I will do that. Appreciate the tips on the grounds. Engine is going okay. Went to drop off all the parts to the engineers yesterday. The camshaft needs replacing through due to corrosion so I will have to find one.
Using the jack to bend that board was a nice trick. Well played. The wood rail looks nice against those colors. Whole boat looks great!
Thanks Seth! :)
Hi Stu,
You can get a cylindrical burr/rotary rasp for wood at hardware store to enlarge your rubbing strip holes or washer holes without making them look like a mess, then you can even get what we call a fender washer which has an larger O.D. to fill up the hole, if need be you can grind the outer edge to fit you egg shaped hole. Might have to use two together, here they are a bit thinner than std. washers here in the States.
Keep your wood wet while trying to bend it soak some rags/old towels and wrap in some plastic to keep it from drying out, it will form better. It will take at least 24 hours of steaming to get the wood saturated and heated enough to bend.
After getting it formed you might want to put a thin layer of, sikaflex, pasted onto the back of your rubbing strip so moisture will not sit behind it and the bored holes, you'll have to take it back off again. Water will still come up into from the sea side of the hull, just be caulking the top, depends on how long you want it to last. That looks like what rotted your previous rubbing strip. It is sort of like bedding in a toe rail on a sailboat to make it water resistant to the mounting area imperfections.
Grinding a larger washer could be a good way to go to get the offset hole. I'm heading off to the hardware store today and I'll see what I can find. I have the Sikaflex ready for the final install.
usual comments danger dude she is at the stage where you are starting to see results and it must be very rewarding now after all that time grinding and welding and filling the stuff that is heart breaking, I am completely hooked and that from a man who lives in the furthest point from the sea in England keep it up mate, im rooting for ya
Thanks Ian! :)
We call them rub rails in the states you silly Aussie. (I am kidding you! I really love ya and your channel. You are a life saver!)!
We just don't know how to speak properly here. ;)
Wow just realised I have watch your whole series on the trawler in a matter of a week. I am far from a boatie but I do enjoy a good resto
Thanks Warren!
Hey mate also I’m not sure how good it would be in marine environments but a product called por15 might work well in your engine bay. It’s great for rust prevention. It’s is a bit on the expensive side but is very tough
Good effort , she's coming up great. Cove show looks a lot better that Our Melbourne one .
Knowing you Stu I reckon getting that anti foul finally applied would have called for a several beer celebration with Arn 🍺😎 Looking great mate. Home stretch now 👍
Thanks Mark!
This is exactly what happened to me. I am in Dubai (working from home) and binging the hell out of this. I love it.
I will be visiting home for the first time in 2 1/2 years this December and will be sure to get back on the water as much as possible. Ill keep an eye out for your masterpiece when im on the water.
im up to episode 25. Makes me want to do something like this.
Great work from a locked out Aussie
Awesome Boat!
Try using a long ratchet strap around the hull to gradually pull the timber into place. Even if you join a couple together with some rope. Easier and cheaper than getting more allthread and stuffing around with removing it later.
At 8:09 looked like the SPEED DRILL was going to introduce itself to the CROWN JEWELS.
Without the CJ's...you can't have a Royal Vessel!
Careful there, Stu.
Yeah fingers are one thing but not a man's favorite friend, his "trouser dog", be careful dingo!
Looks great stu 👍, black, great choice 👍
Ive been waiting for my dangar marine vid fix 👍👍
Ha yes I think you should get the Helicopter for your commute to work or the offshore powerboat for a quicker commute! Always a great video!!!
Hard to carry a Detroit diesel in though.
Awwww.... little roo there..... sooo cool!
The things you see when you haven't got a gun.
To bend the rubbing strips just boil a large pot of water and soak some towels, then wrap the hot towels on the strip for a few minutes......this will allow the wood fibers to expand and you can bend the strip.
Good job 👍 pro
Im enjoy always wen I watch your learners video
U r my teacher 👨🏫
Thank u😘
You're welcome mate. :)
Not sure if you picked a name for the boat yet but I'd like to make a suggestion. " Just Do It " To me, that is the theme for this restoration. You get out there and no matter what...you just do it. Welding? Done! Stripping interior? Done! Designing an electrical system? Done. Doesn't matter. You don't make excuses and put it off until tomorrow....you just do it. Even when you run into a wall and can't get a planned project done..you do something else in it's place just to keep the restoration moving along. Awesome job.
Thanks mate. I'll put one of these stickers on it. :) dangarmarine.com.au/products/bubble-free-stickers
I've been patiently laying in wait, for the "electronics" upload.
@dangarstu you should have some of your cherished viewers enter a lottery, to come and help you. Would make excellent content!
She looks fantastic mate
Well done 👍🏻
Thanks mate. :)
A possible solution would have been to make up some bolts with a tip grinded at one end. Insert them in the threaded holes on the hull an press the wood against them, making a mark on the timber..
Yes, did consider something along those lines but it seemed like more work in the end.
I do a fair bit of 12v electrics on my 4x4 and camper, one thing i say is do a decent solar set up. Bit of room on your cab roof for a panel! It will make batteries last for ever!
Maybe use the old rubbing strip for hole locations.
Are you crazy? That would make the video too short!
If the old boards are warped then you ruin the new ones . Remember for the most part , water and wood and wood vs docks aren't friends . Good thought though !
Templates make life easy. Forstner bits make the holes perfect. Looks great either way. I like the contrast between materials. I hate boat shows because they make me feel poor. Bunch of stuff I can't afford.
@@jacknimble1 Don't we know it . Boat here is next on the retired list . LOL probably buy crap again as all 15 others in my life turned out ! LOL
Yes, the old board were so twisted and bent using them as a template was impossible.
When transferring threaded holes use spotting screws, they look like a setscrew with a sixty degree turned point with a offset angled slot for a screw driver. Screw them in until the point is protruding enough to produce a witness mark after transfer. The transfer process requires a hammer or mallet. In your case it may take several goes of transferring and drilling to complete the full length of timber. This method is used in a lot of different trades. I hope this helps. Cheers
Some people watch these videos and will never want to be anywhere near a boat, others will watch these videos and want to buy an old steel boat!
Your boat is starting to look like a boat now with the painting, anti fouling and rubbing strips. The boat show dream segment was very good.
Your neighbours will love the new chopper Dangar aviation - the start of an empire :)
Looking good now 👍
When I do that kind of wood work, use a drill bit that is no bigger than about 1/2 of your centre point. That way it gives you a place to start both holes & when you have the beam all counter sunk , you go through each hole with the proper size drill bit for the bolt.
Really nice update. Thanks.
Only comment was to start the wood at the front where the bend is greatest. Then worm it back to a straight section for the joint. You may have to go back and remove the rear pieces and start at the front. Steaming will help but the wood will only bend so much. Good luck.
That’s a great tip and makes a lot of sense. Could easily take it off, oil it and then reinstall starting at the bow.
It would also be useful to Sikaflex all along the mating surface of the timber (not just along the top edge) to keep water out completely. That's what we used to do when we replaced them at Northshore Yachts many moons ago and will greatly reduce the likelihood of corrosion setting in behind the timber in years to come.
Best series on CZcams - just got my Dangar Marine T-shirt yesterday. Impressed with the fast shipping.
Thanks mate! :)
I like that idea of camper boat for towing
It was pretty cool. Useful on the water and the road.
Stu, that is looking Sweet. Lovely finish on the underside of the boat.
You're doing a fine job.
Thanks for sharing.
The boat looks fantastic You doing one helluva job! Can't wait to see it hit the water.
The way you were holding the camera made that dog's legs at the end look huge.
Hey I'm a sparky, my advice, people who tell you it's wrong probably don't know enough to know it's better than their idea. I've seen your electrical work, not what I would do, but definitely good enough to have as many pro's as con's to how I would do it, and I would end up doing it different every time anyway.
Stu... Speed bore front side, drill a smaller hole thru (about half of the finished bolt diameter), then speed bore the back side... (with no bit wobble) and finally drill thru to the final bolt diameter. (Also, I hope "we" "greased" the threads on those 3/8 rub strip bolts...)
I was just about to reply when I saw your comment. My thoughts exactly!
best process. pilot holes will keep your work neat.
You can also take a scrap piece and bore through it all the way and clamp it where you want the hole to be. The paddle bit won't walk since it'll be constrained on the sides and won't require drilling twice.
I know nothing about boats but I have enjoyed all your videos since the first one.
Two main reasons why ppl go broke me reakons, building a house and fixing bloody boats! Ive only just finished my jetboat last week, now onto number 2! Figlass viscount. Mr altex will love me
Good luck with number 2!
Great video as always. Re your electrics. When I was in diesel mechanic trade school and all the years in the industry just make sure you have good grounds. Grounds Grounds Grounds! On boats you don’t want to use a frame/hull grounds to power your electrical equipment due to electrolysis. But you do want to make sure to run good grounds from your engine/generator/battery/solar systems to the frame/hull.
Run a dedicated ground wire back to the ground system for each piece of equipment.
If you find room in the budget I would incorporate a small diesel generator. Just for emergency purposes. You can get a more powerful bilge pump that way just in case and also just not be limited. You may never run it but....
Sounds like excellent advice. :)
I like that you're leaving the natural wood.
Enjoying the Trawler project, Stu. How about a couple of ratchet straps joined together around the bow section to pull your rubbing strips in? As you said... just wind the strap a bit each day until you get the timber pulled into shape?
The egg beater tool to clean out the shaft housing is cool, I don’t have particular need of one, but want one anyway!
It's a cylinder hone.
Definitely need to trade that green machine in on that race boat 🤙🤙
What I like to do, when I have to make new parts, and I have the old ones, is I use the old parts as a template for cutting and drilling the new ones. Works perfect every time. Boats looking great man.
Another great video,thanks
Welcome back mate !
loving the series you're doing a great job
Thanks mate. :)
I really enjoy your updates, Can't wait to see the Engine Go in
Me either!
Another great video, trouble is we wish our lives away craving the next one, Really great job and coming along nicely, What an inspiration, keep up the good work! 👍
Thanks Glenn. Should get more time to film this week without the boat show visit taking up time.
I love watching this channel. I don't even own a boat lol.
Same here.
U.A.T. That's the Beauty of You Tube.
Hope to one day. Not sure whether to go for a trawler or yacht. Maybe over the years I'll have a crack at both. Can't hurt to look though plus learning heaps and enjoying the great work that Stu does...
You can get a cylinder de glazing tool that uses emery cloth or silicone carbide "sand paper". These are very cheap and are far more effective, especially when you dont need the accuracy that your stone honing tool offers.
She's shaping up....looking good.
Had to spring Iroko rub rails on a 35 foot steel boat. Ended up using a Spanish windlass to haul the last few feet into place through the previous bolt hole and then replaced that with a bolt.
This boat needs a big "Dangar Marine" decal on both sides of it right above the rub rail. Like 5 or 6 feet long.
I have a Rocna now days. It is amazing. Best anchor I have ever used.
I've never heard anyone who has one be disappointed with it.
Good video as always Stu. When you start the electrics, remember it's easier to run a spare extra wire when you initially start rather than having to add one part way thru. If a circuit calls for 14 ga, go 12ga, heat shrink with epoxy is your friend :-) .........Mike
Since you asked for some electrical tips...
I have some years of experience working on mobile and fixed communications systems. I'm far from an expert but here are a few things that I've picked up. (Pfew! Just finished and noticed how long this got! Apologies to anyone not interested in this stuff. :-/ Hope it is useful to some folks.)
• Tinned copper cable
• Adhesive lined heat shrink
• Dielectric grease your connections
• Consult a DC voltage drop table to find your wire sizes. West Marine has one but it is in Americain Wire Gauge (AWG). Not too difficult to convert though. Remember it is the round trip distance. 10% loss is usually acceptable. 3% is better for important stuff.
• Use grommets, split loom, tie points, etc to mechanically protect the wire and prevent chafe.
• Label everything. Draw a schematic and laminate it for extra points. Heat shrink labels are the ultimate.
• Self-amalgamating tape (Eg. 3M Scotch 23 or 70) fuses to create a watertight seal. Not like the cheap vinyl electrical tape. I recommend this for connections you aren't going to crimp and heat shrink when you're in areas exposed to the weather. For example, when we do antenna connections, we goop them up with the dielectric grease, then wrap them with self-amalgamating tape, then we often go over that with the vinyl stuff (3M 33+) for UV protection.
• Use good crimping tools. The ones built into the cheap wire strippers are garbage. With good ones, you shouldn't even see any air gaps in the finished crimped connection. It'll look darned near fused. Soldered connections are even worse than bad crimps. You can pick up a passable set of crimps and dies for the cost of a few beers.
• One common ground point. Pick a spot and run all your earth/ground cables here. Don't use the hull. Right by the batteries is a good spot. Make a ground bus bar. This equalizes the electrical potential to ground. Unequal potential creates everything from corrosion by inducing a current to a shock hazard if there's enough juice. If you ignore everything else in this list, I'd say this is the most important.
• Try not to stack more than 2 ring terminals on a single post/bolt. Resistances add up in there. Ideally one post/bolt per wire. If you need more, it is time for a distribution panel or bus bar. A whole mess of wires coming off the battery posts is shoddy stuff. You can get away with a cheap automotive fuse block for the positive side and a metal bar with bolt holes drilled in it for the negatives, then run a single cable from each to the batteries for example. BlueSea makes some snazzy stuff if you want something classier than an ATO fuse block, but both work fine.
• Even if you ignore the last one and do the spaghetti off the battery posts, every wire needs a fuse as close to the source as possible. It doesn't matter if the load has its own fuse. You need to protect the wire from overheating and starting a fire. Fire at sea is a nightmare I wouldn't wish on anyone. OK, I lied a couple back. THIS is the most important part.
• Don't bother with dual house batteries, DC-to-DC chargers, or any of that. If I were in your shoes, I'd say hit up the salvage yard for an alternator that can handle my house loads, fabricate up a bracket and pullies. You'd have two separate electrical systems, sharing only a ground. The small alternator that came on the engine charges a starter battery and the only load wired to that battery is the starter. Your second alternator powers and charges your house electrical system. This is the most idiot-proof setup to never have a flat starter battery because you left a light on. If you leave enough slack in the cables, you can swap the wiring around in the event of an alternator failure without much fuss either.
• Forget one of those 1-both-2-off switches. Carry a set of jumper cables. You can jump start off your house battery if need be. Human error happens and Murphey's law says it'll be left in the both (parallel) position and drain both banks anyway. You're unlikely to forget the jumper cables in place. You can also jump start off another boat. Try that with one of those switches.
• The house system needs to be balanced around the alternator first. Add up your loads and how many amps they'll draw. If your alternator can't handle that, simply adding more battery isn't really a solution. I see so many people kill batteries so they figure they need a bigger battery bank, then that one dies too. The problem was an undersized charging system. Battery size is for when the alternator isn't spinning.
• If the budget allows, external regulators for your alternator are much more reliable than the built-in ones. Balmar makes some nice ones. If you have the dual alternators we talked about above, this is probably an extravagance but it would be worth considering for any of your viewers thinking about blue water cruising far offshore.
I could get into some design rules of thumb for battery banks, but that'd be chapters. I've already rambled way too much for a CZcams comment. :) Instead, I'll point out some good references that have chapters on this:
"Boatowner's Illustrated Electrical Handbook" by Charlie Wing
"Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual" by Nigel Calder (Sometimes called the cruiser's bible.)
Seth Williamson Hey Seth that’s what’s good about this channel - so much good info being thrown around. Interesting stuff.
Hey Seth, thanks for all the good tips. With regards to the common ground point, I agree completely. I've been talking with a tech from Raymarine about exactly that and the plan is to then bond the grounds to the hull with a single cable, but only once the install is finished and tested that there are no other paths to ground. I already have a DC-DC charger that I will be using in my setup so I won't currently be going with the second alternator. The charger will also be fed by about 900W of solar panels.
Very useful Seth. Thanks for taking the time for such an informative reply. I learnt a few things which was nice and also surprised me a little :)
More good progress, Stu!
Agree with a previous comment about it being easier to start at the bow of the boat. That gives you the most leverage to flex the timberwhere the curve is the greatest. Also, it's easier to splice the 2nd piece where it's relatively straight toward the back end of the boat.
But you are doing just fine without my 2 cents. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Tony, yes, it seems obvious now someone mentioned it. :) Hope to catch in September when heading to Chesapeake Bay!
Hey, might I suggest white as the color for the whole engine compartment, if you ever have to see in there to work, white will reflect well so you can see to work using the reflected light.
Yes, I will be keeping it light for sure.
Miles from where you started, all that work is starting to come together!
If you buy the black inflatable, along with that black chopper, they'll not only look great together, they'd be perfect for night ops.
I love your thinking. :)
Your boat is looking really great. can't wait till the next vid. Those anchors Roccna are the best.
Stu, you can get plastic bag like material (tube) on a roll. Excellent for steam bending as you can still steam while bending timber into place. Make sure steam can escape somewhere as you can make a dangerous condition otherwise. G,day from Tassie. Cheers Glenn.
Thanks Glenn!
It is definitly going uphill now with the rebuilt :D
BTW if you do a rewiring of the electricity, dont forget to put an extra socket or two for the (beer) fridge....... Somehow I always run out of sockets for my appliances.
Yes, you can never have enough spare capacity.
Holy crap, boats are evolving!
Keep up the good work.
Really enjoying watching.
Cheers
Hi, not a new viewer here but my first comment.
Been a while since I started to follow you but every week things do take a fun turn, so carry on.
Don't take it as the Steel Machine being boring haha, my next boat will be metal and steel is gonna be considered.
Had the boat bacteria since birth and always on the water any way I can, any chance I get!
The trawler (Steel Machine, yes you can use it.) is coming together and will be the pride of your fleet so carry on.
Cheers from Iceland, let me know if you ever are in the neighbourhood!
Thanks Danni. I'd love to visit Iceland one day. It sounds like an amazing country. Great geography and architecture, progressive politics and an amazing national football team too! :)
Good stuff! I would have used the old rubbing strip for the hole locations and also to clamp it to start to shape it. But I’m also sitting on my ass watching you work on your boat. 👍
I liked the idea about of clamping a thing piece of timber to the old ones and making a template that could be laid flat on the new timber.
So for the holes I would drill what we call the spade bit (and you call speed bore) from the outside to the required depth, then drill a small (say 3mm) hole from the same side right through. The spade bit spur will then locate nicely in the 3mm hole from the back side and centre the spade bit without wobbling. Drill to the depth you need, then follow up with the bolt clearance drill from the outside. Spade bits with nothing to locate the centre spur can make a hell of a mess!
Looking good
Nice work!
Looks like a right proper job you're doing with your boat, keep up the good work ! Best wishes !
Getting there....nice.
Coming along nicely Stu, thank you, Jeff in LA USA
Man I’ve been so busy... just now getting caught up on your vids .. love your works
Thanks again. Always learning.
You nailed it again mate - love your sense of humour!
Binge watching now and it is Awesome! I wish you all the best Stu!
Great job Stu. I look forward to watching your videos each week. It's nice to see someone else doing a refit! :-D It's been so long since I did a refit that I'm inspired to do another! Enjoy the boat show.
I had to post my post in here ;) here again:
A new invention of Rik Breur is the Marine Antifouling fibre wrap.
Thx for the trawler vids, I really enjoyed it!
Furiously cranking up the jack. "Can't hear any cracking noises". Way to go Stu. I really look forward to watching this. The boat is slowly getting there.
Probably too late now but in future, try drilling those holes with a small bit all the way through first, then drill out the sides with the spade bit, and then center drill with the correct sized hole for the shank. Much easier to avoid going out of alignment.