Servicing gate valves, installing battery shelf, disassembling gearbox and heat exchangers
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- čas přidán 30. 06. 2019
- Green Machine hull for sale! www.ebay.com.au/itm/202717490...
In this vid I service the seacock gate valves, install the battery shelf and disassemble the gearbox ready for servicing. I also remove the Detroit Diesel heat exchanger core for cleaning.
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Once again, great video! Good old fashioned hands on repairs. No throwing away and buying new. I think that's why I enjoy this so much. So many people would have just bought new gate valves, rather than servicing the old ones. I am so excited about that Detroit diesel!!! Be careful with that caustic solution! Stay well my friend!
Thanks Milke. It is great to see these valves working again. I don't think they had been closed in over ten years so it doesn't surprise me they were stuck!
My girlfriend caught me watching this vid and said "do you really like that it's so boring".....I proudly said I love this guy!!!!
For us all the girly stuff is more boring that this for her :-)
Stu is definitely not boring.
Mine just watched me watching Sail Life,a guy restoring his sail his boat then follow up with watching this,she thinks Im sad.
You think Stu is boring then come watch my channel (Race Boat Life czcams.com/video/wR7l6XtiQ38/video.html ). I'll show you boring.
what percentage of caustic soda for girl friends do you think?
Stu I really appreciate your subtle sense of humour which often provides at least a smile, the remarks about 'morse code' and 'dissolving body moments' were particularly amusing.
A couple notes from an old guy who once rebuilt gate valves in Uncle Sam's Canoe Club (The U S Navy!). First, the most important part of those valves is the ringlike face of the gate proper, where if meets the flats on the inside of the valve body. Best to hone the faces, gently, on a flat surface covered with fine emery cloth. I think that would be particularly important on a valve that had been soaked in an acidic or caustic solution. Both sides, and check for flatness. Remove as little metal as possible. Second, and I'm sure others have pointed this out, flat packing is actually quite common in large valves. Cut the ends of the packing to scarf, meeting at an angle instead of a butt. You'll have no problem. Oh, and that thing is called a "rising gate" valve. The other variety is a "rising stem" valve, for those who are interested in that kind of detail. Good luck!
Thanks for the tips. I can imagine lapping the gate itself on a flat piece of glass or something, but what do you suggest for the inside surface of the valve body?
Never the wrong tool. It's always the right tools. May be the wrong job, but always the right tool
@Happy McJoyjoy If it aint fixed yet, you need a bigger hammer lolol
Learn something everyday! vinegar dissolves oyster shell..had no idea! another great and educational vid!! thanks Stu!!
You're welcome. :)
Just a tip with the gate valves, don't keep them cranked all the way down or all the way open. Get the feel of when the spindle stops and then back up until it catches the gate (from no weight to just when the gate moves) that is closed or open. Turning them all the way down right or open will eventually break the spindle. If the gate is in position it is working, doesn't need to be tight. Awesome work, love the videos
Nice tip, will do that.
Powdered graphite on packing cord helps and extends the life of the packing material in fact they make packing for these valves and it's cheep. Works better looks better and is more reliable impregnated with graphite. However as a Master Plumber Pipefitter I say good job well done. Jack of all trades, lol. I enjoy your show and you inspire me to fix up my three boats. Resealing an 1989 OMC Cobra lower case installing prop shaft bearing, revised detent to fix hard shift and no reverse. Working on 1975 Mercury 650e Thunderbolt 3cyl a 1968 Johnson Super Seahorse 33hp and a 1971 Mercury model 40 4 hp 1cyl. Coming into ownership of a Mercury Thunderbolt 50. So I thank you for the guidance and inspiration to understand the gear boxes on these machines. I'm an experienced auto and small engine mechanic even done a transmission or two in my day but something about gear cases is intimidating like rear ends. Surprising how simple they are after the initial apprehension. I don't however remember seeing you tackle outdrives much. A great resource for those is Wayne Coll and czcams.com/users/TcElectronicsMarinevideos. Thanks DangarStu.
Thanks mate. Good luck with your projects and thanks for the link to the info on outdrives. We don't really have any boats around here with them but you never know when that link will come in handy one day!
The caustic soda segment is FUNNY!!! From Archimedes to Breaking Bad references is classic! Well played, Dangar Dude!
Thanks mate. :)
cut the ends of the seal at 45 degree angle so they overlap and stagger the joins around the shaft so they don't sit on top of each other
was thinking this same thing. cheers.
Len de Sales spotted you after I posted Len. 🙄
45 or even more shallow. A long overlap can't hurt.
Now you tell him. After he's already done it. (sarcasm) Actually it's one of those - 'why didn't I think of that' moments.
scarf cut the seal 30°
After just looking at a few comments and not seeing the answer, I'm going to throw it out there. Teflon tape, the wider stuff would be best for a valve that size, twist it up in a nice tight cord, then just wrap and pack it around the shaft! All packing is, is Teflon. If you want the warm and fuzziess then use some pipe dope on the top, then tighten up and tweak until it seals! Love the channel, you've taught me so many tricks, thanks so much. Much love from a Northern Michigan Plumber lol!
Thanks mate, teflon tape sounds like a great option. :)
Good choice to have someone assemble the gear box. Always better to have someone do it that does it
all the time. I think your packing turned out good on the valve, I use Teflon rope seal quite often. Be picky on putting
everything back in your boat as the little fixes will pile up and bite you in the butt later on. great video !
Yeah, I really thing gearbox assembly is probably above my pay grade so I'm glad Jason is going to be taking care of it.
Improvise and experimentation. Love it. It's great help to see inside everything. Thanks for making the videos.
Thanks Doug!
Cliff hanger! Can't wait to see the result of the soak :-)
Jay
good to see you using burson tools and products
My girlfriend caught me watching a Tennessee guy milling a log. I watched each plank thru the whole log then another log. We come from Mars. They bless them from Venus.
I use graphite packing rope for large gate valves on steam boilers works very well
same is used in model steam engines.
When I used to service boilers we used to use the graphite rope like old mate above suggested, and we also used to soak the valves in hydrochloric acid for ten minutes then hit them with the wire buff, they come up like new, they were brass though, they look pretty much identical to the ones you have, I could be wrong though. Love the channel mate, keeping it real🤙😁
The white vinegar works great. After a salt away flush, I set up a loop and flushed my sea water coolant system and heat exchanger with white vinegar at 50/50 solution and the clear white vinegar soon became a cloudy blue fluid as the calcium dissolved. left it running for 5 hours, then thoroughly rinsed through with a hose left connected.
Sounds like it did a great job!
the perfect way to ignore work on a Monday morning, Thanks for the vid and 'Good Morning' from London :)
Good morning! Don’t work too hard. ;)
Green machine light fixture 😎
Stu getting it done!!!
Hi Stu. Hopefully you caught it, but you reassembled the valve in the wrong sequence. Should be, gate into the body, then install the bonnet, then thread the stem in then the packing gland....... This way the thrust collar on the valve stem rides between the upper side of the bonnet, and the lower side of the packing gland, which keeps the stem from moving in and out of the valve. The way it is now all the opening thrust will be on the underside of the handle to the top of the packing nut.
Expertise is so ... depressing
hope he see's this
I totally missed this, but you caught it. Hope he does see this because it prob won't leak right away and cause doubt on the issues cause later! Good catch!
Thanks mate. Am going to pull it apart and lap the valve as others have suggested so I'll check the reassembly order when I put it back together after that.
@@DangarMarine Wait mate !! That guy tellin' ya all that has OCD, I know 'cause he's in here with me! The Doc tells us that boats are an affliction ... so ya need weepy, leaky valves to build up stinky, oily, sloshing slime in bilge to develop "healthy hate" for boats as a psychological balance. It would be awful to see you go off the deep end too, buddy ... oh, I mean mate.
I don't own/use boats and am in no way mechanically inclined...., an yet I cant stop watching this channel...
Just for your own information: you can buy those valves and packing @ any "Boiler Supply" outlet
You can buy fancy but expensive teflon 'rope' for the packing, or you can just twist up your own from teflon tape. Worked great for me and no more drips...
I've bodged so much stuff together like that, even paint gun triggers and stuff, it's a good trick.
every time you take a bolt or something off I feel a moment of stress "how will we remember where this goes when its time to put it together!?". Its a HUGE relief when it all goes back together. what an emotional roller coaster ride!
If I remember correctly gland packing was graphite impregnated asbestos string, pretty dense stuff, has to be the right size. Also with the dreaded gate valve you have to make sure to open and close them regularly or the buggers will seize, never leave them wound all the way open,or all the way closed, back them off a bit, why ? ‘cos the buggers will seize !!
We called it exercising the valves during PM's.
You're right about the Asbestos packing.
So good I had to share with the Submarine auxiliary group on Facebook. I have struggled with a few valves.
A bit of research on my own behalf resulted in me discovering this link Stu.
Despite the fact that a notice appeared stating their products are 'not available at my location' presumably meaning Australia.
The site nonetheless provides a wealth of interesting and potentially useful information regarding a relationship between various types of marine batteries and considerations such as alternators/charge rates.
Back early 2000's we pulled a Victorian valve from a Thames Water ( London) site....the lead screw was 6ft long and 6" in Dia....Had new lead screw and nut machined and the valve faces re-machined
Be good for 100 more years...PB2 Bronze.
They don't make things like they used to!
@@DangarMarine I have a valve off a 100 year old ship nearly identical to the one you were working on....
You can see the lay-out marks for the hole pattern
Always worth a thumbs up Stu. I don't think that you have ever made a bad video and I look forward to your next planned one. You're awesome to listen to mate. Thank you.
Thanks mate!
Boat's really coming together
Best ever ad for the sale of a boat. Love it.
Looking forward to seeing the video of your trip next week Stu. Safe travels!
Another awesome video. Thank you for all the hard work!
I really enjoy your videos on restoring the trawler keep up the good work. That is going to be an awesome boat for sure! Thanks for sharing your work with us!
You are the man! thanks for all the knowledge you share keep up the good work
Great job Stu, Very good vid.
Stu you probably considered this already, but I would try removing the rust inside the cooler housing by electrolysis. I use the process mainly for intricate parts or where I cannot get a wire wheel or a good shot with a sandblaster nozzle. I would suspend the a sacrificial graphite anode down into the cavity to intensify the reaction. The only down side is that it takes days to work. Check out the many videos on CZcams.
I found this one to be the best. ;) czcams.com/video/Q12EIRbFKPk/video.html
I had read this somewhere before so though I would pass it on "anti-seize paste or grease is made up of microscopic bits of metal such as aluminium and copper, among other things. Any time you mix dissimilar metals with an electrolyte (the water your sitting in), you run the risk of inducing what is known as galvanic corrosion. In fact, using anti-seize in this application could induce corrosion much more rapidly than using a waterproof grease".
Nice, its coming along. Can't wait for the engine install
Honestly when I open youtube I'm hoping for a "hey dangar stu here" video and am so stoked to find one this early. Can't wait to see this trawler trawl.
Hi Stu saw the ad on eBay love the description
Stu make yourself up a home-made mix consisting of 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50% acetone for some kick ass penetrating oil.
that is good idea
Good luck on the sale Stu.
I like your videos, I rather watch someone doing than soneone talking about doing, but most of all I like you talking while doing, you never talk to much. Thanx, thumbs up!
Making progress Stu, the work on a boat is never finished, you just hope for nice pauses in the work to relax. Jeff in LA USA
Gate valve packing: cotton sash cord + anti-seize paste
To be truthful was a bit worried about the boat's reliability, especially considering the places you may go, but increasingly these videos show how thorough your process is,
what I use for rust cleaning is washing soda/water mix with a battery charger - to piece + to sacrificial electrode(junk steel)
Another great video, Stu!
Thanks for doing the awesomeness!
Ive used rear main bearing seal packing. Used to be used on the crankshafts of 60- 70s engines. Have a nice trip...sounds like it will be!
Hey there Dangar Stu here on a Monday night.
Keep it up bud
Lots of good progress this week. Saw a new dog. :) I enjoyed watching Brupeg's episode on visiting you while waiting for your upload. She's coming along! I think she'll be good as new when you're done.
Busy week. Enjoy your time off.
My thought is that you should change to ball valves where ever possible as gate valves generally wear out and have more problems after time. Ball valves have no packing to wear out and start leaking either. Just my opinion. Thanks for the great vids! Keep up the great work.
Will do one day when I have some more money. The best quote I got was $1100 each for replacements!
Good on ya Joshua the engine bay looks great as does the battery shelf 🍻Cheers for you👍
Those pterodactyl birds are crazy today
With the gate valve shaft seal you can take a roll of teflon tape, cut a 3 foot section off , roll it between your fingers to make a round rope out of it. Wrap it around the shaft making as many sections of teflon that it takes to fill the area, screw the bonnet nut on compressing the teflon into place. When you compress the bonnet nut the teflon will fuse together into one piece. It's better to use the thicker teflon like for use on gaslines than the cheaper thin stuff, but all thicknesses will work well.
We all watch cause we enjoy it and it's educational. :)
Awesome job 👍🏾
Thanks for the video.
Hey, I might buy the Green Machine and put the whole thing up on my wall! Great idea!
Agreed with previous, you can make your own packing. In the case of your using the wide stuff, instead of cutting it square cut it longer and @45* so that it 'overlaps'.
Lookin' good, cheers.
I know I'm a bit late to the races, but to rebuild those valves, reach out to your local steam train association, they have all the knowledge from the old timers and know where to find all the gear to rebuild valves like this, the only way to find a kit is if you know who made the valve, and hope they are still trading. Usually they have been brought out by some larger company and their old name doesnt exist anymore.
Good tip!
Love the Breaking Bad reference :)
That exchange is looking very gnarly...the 4KG in about 60 liters should be a good mixture.
When one have seen a lot from one creator like you, I feel i learn to know you really well. Then one realize its just one way.
Hehe, you seem like a very nice guy =)
Thanks for excellent videos =)
Thanks mate. :)
For the caustic solution......in the paper industry, we use 50% for heavy duty cleaning. Just giving a reference point.
Great video.
Keep up the good videos mate!
When I started building a steel yacht in the seventies, I found it very difficult to find the proper metal valves for it, re electrolisis. I ended up using cast iron Crane diaphragm valves up to 1,5" and a butterfly valve for 2". I painted the interior of the Crane valves with epoxy paint. It worked well. The body of the butterfly valve was also cast iron but lined with rubber. The butterfly was cast stainless steel.
" Actually let's just chuck it all in . " " Hold my beer and watch this ! " LOL Famous words from here in Southern U.S.A. Love your videos Mate . Becoming less afraid to buy another fixer boat .
Caustic soda works better heated. Would love to see the clean and painted engine room. Great vids, man. The 471 GM Diesel is very reliable and built like a tank. I know of a few pumps powered by the 471 that run 24/7 and have been for years.
Yes, I've heard that most engine shops use a hot caustic bath for engine blocks.
Really enjoying your content (intro'd through Brupeg), thought I might add my 2 cents worth cause I know how much you appreciate it 8); cut the shaft packing ends at a 45° angle for peace of mind.....the compression will prevent any direct path through the join. In corrosive environments I think it is always best practice to avoid dislike metals in direct contact (possibly would have used the synthetic marine grease you had down at the boat), but the drillers I worked with would always slap permatix copper anti seize on everything, it seemed to always work .....but they are rough as guts. Cheers
love your attitude
Thanks mate!
Batteries have no OFF switch so their terminals are always live. Try dropping a spanner in the wrong place and you will see welding being done. ALWAYS tape or cover the terminals when not working on them.. It will save the batteries, your spanner or steel bit, eyes and the fire in the boat. If it can put out all the amps to turn the starter motor it can do a lot of damage to you. In use cover them to stop anything dropping on the terminals too. Amacf Scotland
A nice electrolysis setup in that same tub would be a great alternative to clean up that hunk of metal. Love the channel, keep up the good work! Cheers, Dave
I figured the ''green machine'' would go to the recycler yard, and you got 20 dollars for it, and considered it a win, win.
Great how to video.
@Dangar Marine, whenever we had "Sea Valves" out we would always air test them after rebuilding them. You could either buy a flange or make up a flat plate then drill it for a Air Fitting then try putting a couple of pounds of air pressure to it. I wouldn't go much past 2-3 psi when testing.
YES! Finally a new episode :D
always interesting to watch - cheers
Have you ever tried rust removal with molasses and water? 1 part molasses to 9 or 10 parts water. Soak for about a week. Much less caustic and economical for bigger parts and panels.
Great channel!a man using hisgray matter and opposing thumbs, CRAZY,
Midnight post.. I'll watch.. 👌
When you cut new packing in, cut the ends at 45degrees vertical overlap then you don’t need to worry about having a gap at the ends (common practice in the plumbing world)🙂
when you look for the packing it is what they call rope packing you can use graphite impregnated rope packing since it is not a high speed sliding area check in a heating and air conditioning supply shop
Nice work!
I usually use grease to help making the seal waterproof and also make the valves easier to operate
"If Archimedes was right".... great stuff
For cleaning, we use a Decarbonizing fluid designed for cleaning flame traps on diesel engine's leave to soak will clean anything can dilute with water depending how strong you need it
Hi Stu. I was clenching while you were putting so much grunt into that bronze, but it came up a treat.
I dropped of a present for you as I was going past on Monday 1/7 .
Wanted to explain in detail but couldn't find your email address.
Keep the content coming. Love it!
the acid you use i swimming pools works really well murattic acid
Had me worried there Stu a passed due date upload glad all is well 👍👍
good progress
Thanks mate!
In the states we call that rope seal and they are very common.
You should be able to get graphite packing from someone who services jetboats. The packing is used around the pump shaft where it enters the pump bowl.
Caustic soda works so much better when it is heated AKA Hot tank that engine builders use. I used to cut a 200 litre drum in half and fill it up 3/4 full and use 2 x 4 litre paint cans full of caustic soda. I used to have a big heating element inside the drum and used to cook engine blocks and other parts in the solution. it worked great. Don't stick alloy anywhere near it but
Heated definitely does sound like the way to go.
best penetrant ever used... 50/50 transmission fluid and acetone