Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video part 7 of 7
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- čas přidán 9. 10. 2013
- I think you will get a good idea how to work on OMC ignition from 1950 to 1973. I know I repeat a lot and videos are a little long, so I had to break each segment into 10 min. I am not that good a videoing or editing, sorry!!
Some of these videos display the use of specialty outboard tools
Richards Outboard tools (Franks' Tools has been bought out by Richards Outboards tools)
If you would like to inquire about purchasing very reasonably priced vintage outboard tools for your 1950's, 60's and 70's OMC (Evinrude, Gale, Johnson) outboard, please use the follow email address or link to Richard's site.
classicomctools@gmail.com
or go to RICHARD'S OUTBOARD TOOLS website.
www.richardsoutboardtools.com/
Cheers, hope y'all have fun working on old outboards!!! - Věda a technologie
Awesome videos for these older but gorgeous motors. Thanks a lot for making them!
You are most welcome. Thank you for your compliments.
Just rebuilt the magneto on a 1966 Evinrude with two new coils, with no experience, and it worked! Thank you!
Wonderful explanation of this process. I am looking forward to tackling my 1971 25 HP Evinrude now, thanks to you.
Thank you very much for this comprehensive video. Before, I saw these videos I never understand how the point system work.
I live far away on the Island in Thailand. I do own some number of vintage outboard motor. This is a good video. Especially, for Evinrude and Johnson. Thank you very much.
I watched the entire video series. Great job!
Thank you, great explanation on what to do. Very helpful!!!!
Great video ! Very informative and helpful !
Great videos, very informative, Thank you.
Thanks for the very clear and informative videos they helped a great deal keep up the good work
Russell .....you are so welcome!
Awsome videos I am an old school mechanic and I thought you did a great job.
dennis dehart
I don't know how I missed your very kind compliment, but greatly appreciate it. I did it very quickly to help a guy out, that was trying to get his motor repaired to go fishing, so the quality is not what it could be.
Thanks for the videos man! I have no spark and a booked up week so won't be able to get to it till next weekend but I am so excited to get a spark finally!!
thanks so much, this was so helpfulllll, your video was very informational,
Glad you liked them and glad they could help you.
Thank you sir I will be rechecking my 1959 35hp seahorse tonight.
Scott Winters
Hope things go well. It would be cool if you made a video of the old girl running. Would love to see it. Those are some great motors!
Cheers,
Cajun
jasper60103, glad you enjoyed the videos. Hopefully it helps others!!
Cheers!
Thanks for the great videos! It helped a lot & we got our motor running smooth today. The special tools helped so much as well!
I have 1959 QD 20 10 hp johnson.
Can you tell me the flywheel retainer nut torque.
I'm hesitant to remove the flywheel without knowing the correct torque to reinstall.
You didn't demonstrate how you held the flywheel when torquing it down.
There are no youtube videos showing how its done, all the videos are the same thing .
great set of videos. i learned a lot. i used your videos to get my 53 evinrude 15hp running. the only thing wrong with it at full throttle it pops and stumbles any ideas why? thanks again
Your motor sounds like it is running a little lean on the high speed setting on the carburetor. Try turning the high speed (bottom knob) on the carb counter clockwise by an 1/8 a turn at high throttle on the boat. See if it improves running . Give about 10 to 15 seconds to fully respond. Continue to adjust as described until your motor is running smoothly.
oh that makes since thank you for getting back
I'm going crazy with my 9.5. Have spark on both but the bottom cylinder in weak. Replaced the coils, condensers, cleaned and set points and checked all parts, wires etc. Still not a good spark.
thanks so much big help
James, you are very welcome!!
Great training videos 1-7. I have a 1975 9.9 evinrude that's hard starting. Points/condensers serviced. Rebuilt carb but no help. Good compression. Not enough vacuum to pull gas through? Crankcase seal or leaf valve?
Raymond T. Mirikitani
What are your compression numbers? Does it even attempt to start?
Compression 90-100 psi. Yes after about 50-60 pulls, it starts.
Raymond T. Mirikitani
Did you mean 90psi on top cylinder and 100 psi on the bottom cylinder?
90psi is a marginal for that make and model motor. But sometimes coking (carbon build up) of the rings can limit ring movement and cause lower compression.
Once started, how does the motor run?
100 psi top and 85 bottom. It runs okay once it starts.
Raymond, is this motor one you have just acquired or have you had it for a while?
Have you verified a good blue consistent spark on both cylinders that jump at least 1/4 inch gap on a open air spark tester? That motors series from 1974 to 1976 has a low tension system that can give grief. The videos you viewed are an example of a high tension magneto system and not a low tension system.
Certainly low compression can effect crankcase pressures and affect pulling fuel from the carburetor in the crankcase and fuel deliver to the cylinder head.
Again, the rings may have carboned coking on the rings preventing movement of the rings and decreased compression. I going to give a couple of links to looking at.
There is process of de-carboning the motor and pistons using Seafoam fuel additive. When you mix it with a gallon of fuel mix of oil/gas please also make sure the fuel to oil ratio is correct. Yours is 50:1
Some folks add 3/4 of can of Seafoam to a gallon of gas to decarb their motors to free up the piston rings to improve compression. This method will only work if the low compression is decreased due to excess carbon build up on the piston rings. May want to do at the lake because it creates a lot of smoke. Neighbors may not appreciate.....lol
First: go to www.aomci.org (It has a free forum area called Ask a member) It is free to join the public forum and there many friends and fellow members that are on most of the time. It is easier to help and diagnosis on the forum there than here on the you tube reply area. I work a lot so some of the guys can help out if I am stuck at work.
aomci.org/forum/viewforum.php?f=2
Here is a link to a very good resource for you motor. The author of that website has done a very good job. It is called Leeroys Rambings.
leeroysramblings.com/Outboard%20Motor%20Related/OMC%20outboard%20related%20articles.html
I just rebuilt the whole ignition and carb, in a Johnson 5.5 hp cd-12.It works and starts great,fire in both cylinders.Revs up great in neutral but when i put it in forward the motor only peeks at about 25%.Any ideas would be appreciated.The points are set at .020
Dan, glad your getting along with your motor. There couple things from carburetor settings, running on one cylinder or even an issue with your lower unit's shock absorber.
It would be a heck a lot easier to help you if we were on a forum, where you or I could post pictures of the motor.
I am a member of the AOMCI club. Antique outboard Motor Club Inc. I am not asking join the club, but to go to the free public ask a member section. You join the free public forum so you can post and ask questions.
There I can post diagrams and detail information. Also, if I get caught up at work, there are other members that are also very knowledge that help and lend a hand.
Home page:
www.aomci.org/
Ask a member section:
aomci.org/forum/viewforum.php?f=2
These are going to be the initial settings for the carburetor for starting purposes. Your will later fine tune the settings.Facing the carburetor you will notice (top) slow speed/idle knob and the (bottom) high speed needle and knob- Top needle is your slow idle needle. You will gently turn in (clockwise) until the needle is gently seated..please don't force. Once seated, you will turn out (counter clockwise) the slow idle needle 1 1/2 turns. Leave it there for the time being.- Bottom needle is your high speed needle. You will gently turn in (clockwise) until the needle is gently seated..please don't force. Once seated, you will turn out (counter clockwise) the slow idle needle 3/4 to 1 turn. Leave it there for the time being
Once you have adjusted the idle/slow speed needle and the high speed needles, then snug up/ tighten (packing nuts) with a 7/16 open in wrench enough to feel resistance when you turn the needles, but not too much where it makes it very difficult to turn the needles by hand.
Setting the high and low needle valves properly:NOTE: These settings should be done in a large test barrel or on the boat in the water/lake!! It best to do these adjustment on the boat in the lake or on commercial size test tank. (You can damage your motor running it wide open in a small test barrel.)
You first start with the high speed needle. Once you have properly adjusted the high speed needle, then you adjust the low speed needle.
(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn in (clockwise), waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out (counter clockwise) the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turn in (clockwise), start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn (counter clockwise). Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
Here is a fellow AOMCI member that gives a demonstration of what I am talking about.
czcams.com/video/I37zQpgUwaE/video.html
most of what you just posted for me has been tried and works to an extent,my motor runs excellent and starts well.works well at low speed and high speed ,just (25% power) in forward gear,so i am thinking lower unit issues,my carb has been fully rebuilt and all new ignition parts.Was really hoping this motor would be my lady, for my one of a kind 11ft Mahone Bay Plycraft(believed to be the only one left in existance) appreciate the time your taking to help me.
Dan, please try a drop cylinder test. Get the motor started, warmed up a few minutes in the barrel or on the boat in the water. Take a pair of piers that are insulated and carefully remove the top spark plug. The engine should run a little rough but stay running. If it kills suspect the bottom cylinder is having spark issues. Replace the top plug and remove the bottom plug. The engine should run a little rough but stay running. If it kills suspect the top cylinder is having spark issues.
These engines can seem to run well on one cylinder, but the power is reduced a good bit. Father in law had the same issue and stated he was getting spark on both cylinders, but the motor would fail the cylinder drop test. Changed his condenses because one was shorting some and causing ignition issues on the effected cylinder.
The test rules out running on one cylinder despite testing spark with an open gap tester and best of all is free to test.
The OMC motors of 5.5 to 7.5hp of the early to mid 50's had shock absorbers that were located under the impeller housing and at the end of the drive shaft. There is a compressed spring inside the shock absorber that helps prevent damage to the motor and shafts if the prop hit a hard object. Over the years the spring fails and provides resistance. So, it causes the motor to strain when you throttle it up, like it was restricted. It would be easier to post pictures and an assistance on the AOMCI forum. That topic has been discussed there a good bit over the years.
Thanks cajuncookone i will try the drop cylinder test and let you know what happens,although everything is brand new under the flywheel something could be still faulty.
It's your Carb If it runs good when not under load and then struggles under load it is starving for gas.
still don't see any spark in top cylinder?
There is spark but a little hard to see because the camera is not great and in sunlight. I did end up replacing both condensers and spark was improved. It started after a couple of pulls on the starter. Lord knows how many years that motor stayed sitting.
Do these engines have to be set up with a timing light
Using a feeler gauge and gapping the points at 0.020 inch is acceptable.
That's not a real good way to set the points on these motors Timing them with an ohm meter and a jumper wire is the best way. The gap timing and not gap size is a lot more important, also Rich's tools on line sells a timing fixture and a video that explains this. A blue spark does not mean it is timed.
gabriel falan
Gabriel, the way that timing was demonstrated in this video was to show how set points timing with a feeler gauge. This is how timing was achieved prior to OMC’s usage of the universal magneto. OMC factory trained technicians and mechanics then used the timing fixtures. The feeler gauge method is an acceptable and reliable way to set timing for a points and condenser magneto setup. Many makes of outboards pre-solid state ignition system used the feeler gauge method to set timing. Point gap size is important when you are using the points gap method.
You bring up the use of timing fixtures as a more reliable way to achieve timing and you are correct. But, not everyone has a timing fixture to set timing for there outboard and not all makes of outboards have timing fixtures. Some outboards have inspection ports on their flywheels where you can see, clean and set points with a feeler gauge without having to remove the flywheel. This was very helpful if you were out on the water or on a fishing trip.
I have timing fixtures for my OMC motors and use them if the motor accepts the timing fixtures. It provides nice smoothing idling if the carburetor is set correctly. Richard is an AOMCI member an makes excellent timing fixtures and coil locating rings.
I have video on my channel that shows how to use timing fixtures. As a matter fact it references Richards timing fixtures. Those fixtures were manufactured by Frank’s Outboard Tools prior to Richard buying out Frank’s tools.
There are two reliable ways to achieve proper timing on OMC motors with universal magneto from 1950’s to the 1970’s. The point gap method and the timing fixture method. The point gap method use a gap measurement to set timing along with proper alignment of the high point of the points cam where the points shoes ride along. (By doing this, spark was delivered when the piston was close to reaching TDC.) The timing fixture uses continuity (analog meter or digital meter) and machined timing marks on the magneto plate to setting timing. When the timing fixture is set between the timing marks the points are adjusted to the position that continuity is broken. This sets the spark timing when the piston is almost TDC and combustion takes place when the spark travels through the coils secondary winding to the spark plug and ignites the charge. The timing fixture allows for a more exact timing when the spark is delivered and delivered 180 degrees apart for smooth idling.
So, there is difference in methods, but both are acceptable. Not everyone has a timing fixture and not all OMC motors have fixtures made for them. The purpose of the video was to help out the average motorist get his or her motor ignition in order to go fishing or fun.
If you do not have proper/acceptable timing you will not have a spark or a very robust spark. That is making the assumption that your points are clean, condenser, coils, spark plugs and wires are good.
Cajuncookone you are the man bro watched your series and has helped me a lot!!! Appreciate you taking the time to make a video showing how to do it
it not finish, he did not start
Woody Taylor
Woody, I was just displaying spark. Motor did not have fuel connected to it....lol
to satisfy the brain.