When a Transmission Fluid Change or Flush Can Damage Your Transmission
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- čas přidán 26. 10. 2018
- Should You Flush your automatic transmission? Should you replace the transmission fluid on an old car with high miles? Will changing your transmission fluid cause damage? How to do an automatic transmission fluid flush. Answers to all these questions and more in this video. Enjoy
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I went to a transmission shop to do the flush. My car has 100k miles and I have no idea if the previous owner maintained the transmission or not. After the service, my transmission is more responsive and smoother. I don't know if I've got lucky, but the flush improved the gear shifting and smoothness of the ride.
maybe all your clutch pack debris was caught in the filter and wasn t caught in oil gallerys
Great! From here forward, maintain the fluid by replacing part of the transmission fluid at each motor oil change. Get a hand operated transfer pump for $10 and extra hose to extract fluid through the dipstick snorkel. Do the same for the steering fluid.
@@leesmith9041 There are pans with a drain plug for under $30. Just open the plug, drain into a measured container, replace.
You probably said flush and they did a drain and fill and charged you for the drain and fill. A flush can ruin a transmission so they usually dont want to do that. A flush means they use pressure to clean it out, and that pressure drives dirt DEEP into the transmission. A drain/fill avoids all that.
yeah same, flushed out a 180k mile mazda transmission and it feels like new. Flushes are important on nissan trannys too as they tend to play up
transmision fluid in a dodge lasts the life of the trantransmission. just change the fluid when you install the new transmisions every 80 thousand miles.
That is absolutely correct @Nathan Smithson.... Transmission fluid in a transmission that is never maintained will last exactly until the transmission blows up.
2nd gen autos only. The rest have been great
😂😂😂
Idk I have an 08 with 340,000 km and my transmission is in great condition. The drivetrain falls apart though.
I've never had a problem with the newer Dodge transmissions only my 89 and it had three hundred thousand on it when it went . I've had everything from 1983 Dodge up to 2015 but now that KIA took it over I might be looking at a Ford.
Where did you find a dodge with 60,000 miles!!
And where did you find a dodge with a working transmission!!? 😂
My 06 Diesel 2500 has 215000 hard towing miles, my previous 01 2500 had just over 100000 when I traded for the 06, my wife’s Durango had 120000 when she traded for a Jeep, all of the had the original transmission, other than routine filter changes they all worked flawlessly. Take care of your car, your car will take car of you.
I had a friend who traded in a 01 Dodge Ram 14 years old and only 60k. It was just like the one in the video.
my uncle has a '98 Ram with an estimated (odometer is sadly dead) 300K miles on the conservative end (he;s driven the thing up and down the east coast many times) he put an auxiliary trans cooler on it when it was nearly new, and it's still going to this day, though it's finally starting to develop issues
My 95 ram had 400k when I sold it for a grand.
That was 9 years ago and it is now on Craigslist for 2k?
It won't die!
Theres a 97 ram 1500 with 211k parked in my driveway.
Well, I guess I rolled a dice a couple years ago in replacing transmission fluid in my 1990 4L60 transmission with 206,000 miles. Old fluid had somewhat burnt smell. So far, still working. Already added 13,000 miles and still going.
My daughters Saturn had 210k, it was burnt, brown, gritty and oil analysis showed huge amounts of wear metal and clutch material floating around. It also shifted hard. The flush fixed the problem and no problems, and it shifts much better. This was sealed transmission with no filter to change, that is unless you wanted to pull and crack the case.
We changed transmission fluid and filter on a 1993 Lexus ES 300 that had 197,000 mlles and the transmission was never serviced before. We also disconnected the transmission fluid return lines and shot compressed air to clean out the cooler passages in the lower radiator. We drained and filled the transmission 2 more times between 40 mile drive cycles and the transmission performed perfectly.
I was hoping my 96 toyota corolla transmission fluid will be alright since its on 198k. I don't have history on the transmission service.
Hey I’m currently in a similar situation. I recently bought a 2006 Buick Lucerne with 109,000 miles on it and replaced the radiator. During this process I had to disconnect the transmission cooling lines which drained at least a quart of the trans fluid which was dark brownish and took it for a test drive after I realized the transmission would slip going into every gear. I currently am not sure what to do. Do you think it’s to late for me to change the fluid and refill the same way you did ?
@@ArsenalTTV a drain and fill won't hurt anything. You'll only be replacing about a third of the fluid. If it feels better just do multiple drain and fills until the fluid looks mostly new.
It's a TOYOTA. 😅
Same in our Camry at 142K. Doing great at 160K. Their theory is hogwash.
As someone who has spent many years in the transmission repair business, most people don’t think of servicing the transmission until it starts to shift different or starts to show problems. If the trans already has issues, of course changing the fluid won’t help. That would be like putting a Band-Aid on a gunshot wound. I change the fluid and filter on my Dodge cars and trucks every 50K, adjust the bands where needed, and all of them have gone at LEAST 100k before I traded or upgraded. My current 06 Ram diesel has over 200K of hard towing, still going strong.
Excellent advise, brother. Most people dont think in the "pre-emptive" perspective. They live in the "after-math" of problems.
Flush or drain and fill
I bought a 2016 Buick LaCrosse with 84k I got 92k rn I crashed it back in April I’m get it back this month so it hasn’t been driven for couple months got any suggestions on what I can do to get it back to new when I get it feel like something gon be up with the fluids for sitting for so long
@@titoortiz5924 a couple months of no use isn’t a big deal. There are people around here that have winter homes in Florida, their cars sit all winter with zero problems.
Relax and enjoy having your car back.
@@mattrodgers4878 bet appreciate it I’m somone who drives their car hard I’m talkin maxing out the speed to 150😂 u got anyways of taking care of the car I always make sure to get a oil change every 3500/4k miles any other way to keep my car in good condition?
Another little tip. If you have a vehicle where the transmission pan, does not have a drain plug, sometimes you can buy a replacement pan that does have a drain plug or find one in the wrecking yard that has a drain plug. Or you can drill a hole and install an aftermarket drain plug. Once you have dropped the pan and installed a new filter, likely you will never need to do so again. You will only need to drain and fill every 30,000 miles or so. A drain plug will make that very easy.
I just use one of those hand pumps from the auto parts store to pull some out and put new in every once in a while. Havent lost a transmission yet. Truck has over 200k miles on it ✌🏼
The worst vehicle I've ever owned regarding the difficulty in changing the ATF was a 2008 VW Rabbit. The drain/fill plug was in the bottom of the sump pan and there was no way of measuring it with a dipstick. It was a complex procedure requiring many steps. The Aisin 09G transmission worked flawlessly but changing the fluid was a PITA.
The easiest I've owned is the Gen 1 Ford Escape with the CD4E transmission which had a drain plug and dipstick.
@@TSyoyo where do you pump it out from ?
I don't get it. -- Why not simply disconnect the trans-cooler Return Line and cycle ALL FRESH, and bypass the 40% inefficient method?
It works the same for both dip-stick and sealed, is easier, and 100% accomplished until the next interval.
@@bobbyjolee4362 I did that once. It's inconvenient and usually unnecessary. It was easy on the vehicle I did it on. It may be difficult on some contemporary vehicles.
I sold used transmissions for 36 years. This guy knows what he is talking about when and when not to change transmission fluid.
Hell yeah. This video seems pretty spot on! Too bad so many dummies still don't get it. There should be no questions after the great explanation gave.
So basically you can only flush your transmission fluid when it doesn't really need it.
😅
Yes lol. You can do a change it but never a flush. The only good flush I've learn to help is brake and steering fluid.
Same as oil
Wow I'm so confused my car is 2009 almost 180,000 miles and the fluid is black and smells bad, should I have it flushed ? Sounds like I could get a problem either way?!
@@a2isha your way too late. The clutch packs are worn out and the old fluid has the material from it thats been holding it together. Don't change it
one of my favorite channels! you do a bomb-ass job of explaining all the things i heard as a kid growing up in a shop, but never questioned! thanks brotha!
My mechanic once talked me into replacing my transmission fluid at around 80k miles on my Grand Prix (I think the factory recommends doing it every 100k miles). At the end of the service, the mechanic pulls me into the shop and says "I just removed THAT from your car" pointing to a bucket with what looked like black engine oil in it. It wasn't, it was entirely burnt transmission fluid. Change your transmission fluid regularly!
MOST YT tutorials present a ~40% "Pan-Flush" but THIS @RatchesandWrenches" is the guy to listen to with his 100% Full-Flush method. -- What a breath of fresh air in a world of bad advice.
-- After explaining this SUPERIOR METHOD to one ill-consider YT channel host, he wanted to ARGUE that "Evaporation" disproves this 100% methodology. Not everyone is as smart as they might hope. --
THIS is an EXCELLENT Channel with EXCELLENT ADVICE!
As a transmission rebuilder. Sorry Number one is wrong but not entirely. A simple filter swap can fix your transmission. I have had many cars that appear to be slipping be completely fixed because the filter was clogged, restricted or fallen and sitting in the pan.
Don't EVER add conditioners to an auto transmission to try and fix anything unless you are trying to get another month out of it. You will guarantee a complete rebuild and compromise longevity of a rebuild. You can do the same thing with a couple of drops of brake fluid. Makes all the seals soft and pliable but soft and easily disintegrate. Any of that fluid remaining in a port of a rebuild and you just compromised the new transmission. If your transfer case shares fluid you now have a transfer case that will soon leak or stop functioning.
The average transmission tales 5-8L of fluid. Dropping the pan replaces at least 4-7 L. Most converters only hold 2L or less. You really need to talk to a transmission rebuilder.
So what your saying is????? I can do a change???? U confused me
Mr. Skeptical no he is not answering weather or not you can change it yourself. He is pointing out some misinformation in the video from his point of experience as a transmission rebuilder. As a mechanic myself I understand what he said and I disagree with some of what was mentioned in the video.
@@zadeanrobinson1608 Correct. TY. I've had shops bring me a transmission for rebuild that have had cracked and broken filters clogged filters for any number of reasons. I clean it drain it and check it all out. change the filter and put the pan back on and now they are stuck. Do they cheat the customer and charge to reinstall it? Or eat the cost of a RE and RE? I've had rebuild shops call me because they just rebuilt a transmission and they get the car towed to my shop to find out what went wrong. To find the filter was defective. RE and re the pan solved the problem. A service tells you a lot about the condition of your transmission. If you don't know the history or feel something's not right. A service is the cheapest option that leads to informed decisions. He's correct a lot of shops don't use the flushing machines properly allowing contamination to spread from one car to another. Do not do tranny flushes. Take the pan off. It's the only way to get accurate information. Not changing the filter till the plastic hardens and crumbles in the pan is not a bright thing to do. Flushes by a shop that knows what they are doing and clean the machine between services should be reserved for the people that keep cars in tip top condition with footnotes.
Solder Joe well said. Would like to talk further with you. Your very experienced.
@@zadeanrobinson1608 I learned over 18 years from a guy that spent 30 years in the factories of all the major car dealers then opened his own shop. Best part of the job was test driving so many amazing cars. You got to ruff them up and spin the tires because you know the owner or his cousin is going to. So it's not like a car dealer where you have to gingerly drive everything.
The first transmission fluid and filter change I did was on a car that had jet black burnt and stinking fluid that was slipping... The trans didn't get much better and failed within a couple of months. Some folks might argue that the new fluid killed the trans, whereas I might argue that the new fluid kept it going for a couple of months....
Most of the arguments about new fluid killing a transmission are due to the trans being toast in the first place and the fluid change is a hail Mary to rescue it. For the most part, if the fluid is burnt it's been overheated. Changing the fluid won't fix the overheating problem nor will it fix a trans with worn out clutches. The question to ask someone is why they decided to do a fluid change in the first place. Most will admit it was because their trans was in trouble already... The fluid change didn't kill their trans, it just didn't rescue it.
That said, most cars are best off with a filter and partial fluid change as long as the trans fluid still smells and looks good. The clean filter never hurts and clean fluid won't hurt a good trans. Basically by adding about half of the fluid you are removing some of the free floating debris and crud in the sump and upgrading the additive package in the fluid, which isn't usually a bad thing.
A transmission going from slipping to being dead in a few months definitely seems like the fluid change wrecked it faster than if you had simply tolerated the slippage. You probably would have got a few (annoying) years out of it with no change. A fluid change can indeed reduce the lifespan of a transmission if it is already very dirty in there and the new fluid, which acts as a solvent, loosens up some debris that was stuck somewhere, and cause it to float around and clog something in the valve body, like a human having a stroke. Never replace the fluid in a transmission that's already slipping, it will never improve the situation, and it will only give a risk of blowing it up entirely.
But if you replace the fluid in good time, before it gets to that point, you'll never have that problem in the first place.
@@theredscourge The reason we tend to think that a slipping transmission would have kept working if we didn't change the fluid is because it's the path untaken. As in, if I did nothing, things would be better than what happened. There's no way to prove it.
To be fair though, I've seen transmissions go bad and they very rarely last for years once they stop shifting properly. In fact, my wife's car stopped going into third gear occasionally. Two weeks later there was no third or fourth gear at all. The car only has half a million miles on it and is on it's 4th valve body now and is running fine. Fluid is still oddly clear... and yes it was red when we changed it. I think we've changed it about 3 times over the 15 years we've owned it.
Similarly, I've seen cars with burnt clutches and burnt oil fail pretty quickly if nothing is done.
That said, I drive an old Cop car, the fluid was red, but the filter was full of clutch material and the magnet was covered in metal dust. A fluid change greatly improved the shifting. The car was primarily used as a chase car so lots of sprints wore the clutches and metals. The car has a trans cooler so the fluid didn't get burned.
Nothing is going to replace the worn off clutch material and I'm always going to feel the shifts, but with fresh fluid and a clean filter and no more chasing bad guys, the trans is likely to last a very long time as it is not slipping yet, just shifting a little hard.
I honestly don't see any advantage to burned fluid in the trans. It isn't lubricating and isn't doing it job. I also don't see a benefit to a clogged filter. On the other hand, I don't recommend trans flushes as I believe you are right and they can flush dirt into the valve body.
I suppose.... maybe... there's a compromise where you might change the filter and the fluid little by little...
I've also had one case with a posi rear, where carbon caused the clutches not to lock up at all... flushing it with carbon tetra chloride and xylene fixed it right up. I'm not sure that's ever the problem with a trans, and I wouldn't recommend doing it with a trans.
In my experience, most people don't do anything with their transmissions until they are literally pushing the car in and then they want a fluid flush and filter to fix it. And no, it never works... it's just too late. If they did the filter and fluid change when the fluid just started turning darker, I believe it would have helped a lot.
Lastly, lots of times in modern cars, when a trans doesn't shift, you need a valve body or other less expensive repair... Always have a really good professional check out the trans and stay away from transmission swap shops and guys that change oil for a living.
@@theredscourge Hey so what you're saying is that, if i do an oil change for a closed system, and while draining i find out the oil is really bad, it's basically better to put the old oil back in again and abort?
@@kennya51 only in the case of transmission fluid do you need to be careful about intervals. You may be able to drain a small sample and see if it's still okay to change it, but it is almost always best to go by the OEM specified intervals or the below guidance if none provided. For any other fluid, an early change won't ever hurt anything. You don't want to change transmission fluid if it has gone over 80k mi or 120k km since last change, because it will start to slip and hesitate when shifting, which is a particularly big problem in the newer 8 speeds as you shift often. You also never want to do a fluid flush, as the debris can get forced into the valve body and wreck your shifting entirely. Drain and fill only, and only on a set interval of somewhere between 50k and 80k mi or 5 years, whichever comes first.
I have no issues or problems with mine just burnt smell and and discolor
i had my fluid completely flushed in my 97 audi a8 5 speed zf auto by a shop. he said the fluid in it was old but there was no evidence of damage to the transmission. that was over a year ago now that is was completely flushed and i haven’t had an issue since, shifts gears beautifully.
Probably the best, "To change or not to change", transmission fluid video on YT. The 1ROAD vids are giving false hope to DIY's bent on thinking they must flush...Plus, that guy is working on his only two vehicles and not saying what happens next month. At least you have an array of real life customer's vehicles. My personal experience mirrors your advice: I drained, (NOT flushed), the A/T fluid on a 2008 Kia Rio with 140,000 miles and semi dark fluid, no smell. Did two quarts one week. Drove. Then two more quarts week later. In another two weeks of normal driving, trans went out almost instantly. I towed to my trusted mechanic of 9 years. First thing he asks me...."Did you change any of your trans fluid recently?". Don't take a chance folks! Tranmissions are EXPENSIVE!!!
When i bought my 2003 Escape, it clunked in and out of Torque lock. I did three drain and fills, now 3 years later still shifts excellent.
I restored the headlights on my 2004 Yukon after watching your videos. Thanks!!
oh, the burrrrrn
Very funny!!
I’m glad you get your camera focused properly. I’ve seen some videos that have nice cameras but the faces are slightly off focus and focused more on the background. Great video with awesome tips!
A good subject and well covered. I heard on a automotive repair radio show that "no manufacture ever recommends a transmission flush". I've taken that approach ever since. However I like your tip on a DIY home flush.
That was my understanding when I went to automotive school, it's just not worth the headache and wallet pains in the end. I went to a Hyundai dealership last year and just had a transmission service change (not flush) after about 80-90k miles on a sealed transmission.
@@blackonblack...9244 What is a "transmission service change"? Is that not a fluid change at the least?
@@dalewalker4614 its a drain and refill instead of a pressure system flush.
The transmission pan on the ram probably holds at least 4 quarts. Total fluid capacity is about 10 - 11 quarts. When only a portion of the fluid is replaced , the additives in the new fluid will replenish the old fluid when it mixes with it, as long as the old fluid wasn't worn out.
Im a big believer in pulling the pan, clean the magnets ect, change filter and then exchange all fluid from the trans. As long as it didnt have issues to start w.
All good advice, so long as you immediately perform the Full-flush method to discharge the ~60% of old fluid still degrading your system.
OR,-- you could Full-flush your trans more frequently BEFORE any grit has a chance to accumulate in the trans filter. -- That would be my choice. --
Love your channel. Less drama than Scotty and it's clear you know what you're talking about. Well done.
Can't stand Scotty, blocked his channel.
@@bipedalbob no joke.!!!!
2006 Chevy Silverado 271k miles today, OEM Transmission, I installed a pan with a drain plug, and so far so good. I will not even mention the fact the baby is due for a full service including solenoids as recommended. BTW it hauls a Boat 200-plus miles sometimes.
I never bother with flush, I just do the filter change and new fluid to the correct level. By changing some of the fluid it maintains it looking and working good.
I mostly agree, I will change fluid twice; about a month apart. So I get half the oil changed the first time, then another half of a half, leaving me with 75% new fluid the second time
Each time I change motor oil, I replace some of the transmission fluid and some of the steering fluid.
Each time I change motor oil, I replace some of the transmission fluid and some of the steering fluid.
Thank you for the thorough explanation. Other mechanics on CZcams just say it's a bad idea to change the fluid on high mileage vehicles with unknown service history, but they don't give a good explanation as to why it can cause harm.
It washes off the sand particles off the gears causes it to shift very rough I say flush half of it out
It really depends on what car you have but if your fluid is old at least do 1 drain and fill and get some clean fluid in the transmission.
EXCELLENT Video, well explained, thanks for keeping it clean, love your work bro!
Finally someone who knows what they’re talking about. Thank you!
Hell yes he’s right I’ve had two cars transmission go out after the shop flushed it
Great video! The method I used on a car with a neglected transmission was to do a partial change, and then do the next after about 15 miles, then every hundred miles. After about 3 partial changes the fluid started coming out more clean than dirty. I.e you can't do a single flush, it's just the first wash cycle!
yeah, that's what I was thinking of doing with my Ford Transit 250 with 83k on the clock (no transmission issues but never been flushed)
@@krissh4610 the first short change smelt so bad, don't leave it in for long !
Hey Graham , by partial change do you mean that you just did a regular tranny fluid change at those intervals instead of total overhaul of the fluid (since a tranny fluid change is only replacing 1/3 of the fluid) ?
@@chrishall1692 I think he's just saying drain & refill, whatever fraction/percentage that ends up being
You rock. This is the best of all and most informative of all youtube posts on this. Very helpful, informative and much appreciated. Finally someone giving the reasons why. Remarkable video. The best.
Good info. Usually on a transmission video people screw up facts royally. Your video was completely true and good information, thanks.
Can't trust shops. Had brakes and coolant flush done. Brakes locking up Bec air in system. Come to find out they only started the threads but didn't tight. Found one coolant hose band not tight either. If you care about it, you do it or confirm it. Kids/underpaid employees/night before was party night. Great video as always
Best explanation I've seen on this matter and I've also learned atf makes a great hand softener too. Thank you
Thank you so much for this video! It really helped me understand a lot and hopefully avoid a bigger problem than I already have.
2011 Chevy Express 190k
Bought it and fluid was dark. performed flush 8k ago . Working fine .
Have fixed lots of shifting problems with fresh fluid .
Probably not slipping problem.
Great information. You have a new sub. You and Scottie Kilmer are the goats!
There's another variable with transmissions. I have an 2010 Acura MDX and it shuttered when it shifted down a gear between 40 and 35 kM/hr. I did numerous drain and fills but in the end what needed to be done was a software update and now it shifts perfect. Not saying this will work for everyone but it's something to consider with these newer transmissions.
Thank you for actually explaining this along with all the nuance. 💪
Ernest sipes - I couldn’t find your reply to my question so I’m writing here to say Thankyou for your advice.
I followed your advice
Warm up - dump what’s in the sump - refill what was removed
Did this 3 times total.
After the first time there was a massive improvement.
This was on a holden vf ssv commodore which is what you guys refer to as a Chevy ss.
The gearbox especially when cold was clunky to go into drive and sometimes changed harsh after 60,000 city km. I used penrite synthetic auto trans fluid. Silky smooth now
I always do a pan drop and filter about 20,000 miles or once a year to maintain clean transmission oil no need for a flush.
I was taught this way too. Every 50k drop the pan and change filter. Replenish exactly what is removed, which winds up being somewhere around half of the trans capacity. Changing it all is not necessary, and the margin for error is high.
Is not my intention to contradict the video...But...I did a fluid change in a old Accord that was slipping in cold weather. That transmission by the horrible color of the fluid didnt have a fluid change in a very very long time. And the new fluid seems to have fixed the slippage problem. I guess the old fluid got too thick with age and dirt it seems, causing it to flow too slowly at the cold start in the morning. Luck? Probably yes. I had nothing to lose. Its been a year now (some 8000 miles) since the change...and is still going good...No slippage since then. I had no idea what to expect after the fluid change, but It worked.
Honda has some of the most unique automatic transmissions on the market. They are very very good transmissions, but they have many more tiny fluid channels and smaller ones than other manufacturers which means the fluid channels could get clogged easily. In their service manuals, it actually says to change the auto transmission fluid you have to change it 3x and drive the car a couple miles in between each change to successfully change. You probably had a fluid channel start to get clogged which failed to actuate or apply pressure somewhere.
Yes.it works with my 2013 chevy traverse.it starts slipping but thanks God,it helps with Lucas oi!👍👍👍
Thank you so much for this! I've been looking for these answers 👌👌🙂
Then you came to the wrong place.
Nice pic Li'l
Top enemy of an automatic transmission is heat and teenagers. If you live in a temperate climate and change the fluid after every summer, you probably don't need a flush. If you live in Phoenix Arizona and drive in 130 degree weather, you probably should replace the oil completely as advised in the video. Mileage will make this a variable, so replace the fluid at mileage intervals if you drive consistently.
If you have a teenager, you should replace the entire transmission. It got neutral-dropped. Expect large chunks of metal in the pan.
😅
Yep. I would never buy a car from a kid now awadays. .
Best explanation of the different scenarios I've heard yet. Thanks....
Thanks so much really I got alot of mechanical and electrical of automobile information from your channel.
You are a Very Good Professional ! Thank you.
I was always afraid to change transmission fluid but recently we had two used Kias. One started shifting poorly I was told by people who had experience with Kia cars to pump out and replace as much as could be pumped out without taking it apart. The shifting went back to just like a new car. We did the same thing to the other Kia with the same results. I don't know what's different about a Kia but I think it would make things worse with a Chevy or a Ford.
Did you pump out through the fill tube?
Most of people in the comment still don't get it... its simple, ITS RECOMMENDED by the manufacture that you change the transmission fluid at a certain mileage or time, if you let it pass and you never changed it and now you have a vehicle with high mileage it becomes a gamble and you should take you car to an transmission expert so he can evaluate if changing the fluid is going to ruin you transmission or if its going to prolong its life.
If you have a vehicle with a very high mileage and never had transmission fluid change just forget about it, at this point becomes why fix something that is not yet broken...
So you are saying that once a car has high mileage (whatever number that represents) that the transmission shop (that makes it's living by rebuilding transmissions) is more knowledgeable than the manufacturer that spent millions of dollars in R&D designing, testing and spec'ing out the transmission for your vehicle??? Sounds like an opportunity for exploitation to me....
Changing the ATF is NOT going to ruin your transmission, but it MAY expose the damage that already exists.... That, you can bank on.
Good job on making this video. It's apparent that you are well educated. Nice job !!!
Thank you for the video! Very educational.
A local transmission repair shop near me said they only change fluid but not flush because the torque converter it where the fine bits are that can damage your transmission and a flush will send that junk around your transmission.
I think trans fluid draining/filling is good just keep up with it. I have a 2000 Ford ranger that DOT used as a fleet vehicle and did regular servicing like changing fluids often I would presume. My trans fluid looked fine and clean the day i got it, same fluid in now (got it over a year ago) and it still looks the same! No trans problems once so ever ;) have even built it up with more to come. Black trans fluid is always what i see when a trans gets to its grave. No thanks for me
Good instructions for the different scenarios
This is a good bit of information, TY.
Great topic! Ive heard both arguments my whole life, i always opted for the easiest one , dont do it unless it breaks
It’s all hogwash.
I use the drain & refill then drain & refill again method like 3/4 times method. My 1995 Ford Contour ATX has 174,000 miles on it and still working fine.
Thanks for your video. Lots of good advice.
In my case Lucas oil has been helping me for over 5 years around 70k miles I've changed the transmission fluid with Lucas 3 times since it started slipping
My tecnique is to remove the oil and oil pan and see how much sediment is inside. If not too bad I will see if the filter is clogged. If it is I will take a chance and change filter/fluid. If that does not fix it I will remove and rebuild it. My vehicles are old so they have converter drain plugs. The transmission snake oil is only for someone trying to stick someone else with a lemon.
1998 Mercedes E320 4-door base sedan, W210 chassis, 5-Speed AT (722.6), 280,000 miles. It has never had major work done to engine or transmission...I bought it with 100,000 miles back in 2009.
1) I was hit hard on the driver side wheel on highway, car went into limp mode. Ever since then, sometimes car went into limp mode, or would not shift properly, or RPMs would jump higher, prevent acceleration, and car wouldn't shift properly.
2) Transmission oil was low, light came on for oil being too hot, only had 2 quarts out of 7 required. This car comes with no transmission oil dipstick, accidentally overfilled oil, it started running out of the overfill slot below the car, and a few times caused severe smoke while driving on the highway.
3) Eventually enough leaked out and burned to where the oil fell within the level, after it was checked at a garage with a dipstick.
4) Went for another drive on the highway, shifting problems continued, and eventually the RPMs dropped, car would no longer drive.
5) I pulled into rest area, turned off the car, waited a few minutes, started car, and began to take off, but the car still wouldn't shift out of 1st gear, so I drove the car slowly to a place where I could park until I decide what to do.
6) After some YT videos, I tried to reset the transmission, disconnected the negative cable for about 1 hr., then I tried taking off but the car still wouldn't shift out of 1st gear, nothing worked. No check engine came on for these transmission problems.
7) After some research, I'm going to replace the down kick switch first, if this doesn't work, I'm going to buy a conductor plate kit with conductor plate, filter, electrical switch, and oil pan gasket. Should I also replace the solenoids?
8) Do you think I will solve my problem with the latter fix, or do you think something else could be the problem? Your opinion would be appreciated, thanks.
Maybe your check engine light is burned out. There should be a code no matter what.
I just did at fluid flush at Toyota dealership and let me tell you-it shifts and responds much better and as expected they said the fluid that came out was very dark. Feels like driving on the pillows. People who tell you never to at do flush…🤦🏼😬think about it…why would corporate dealerships offered risky service of possible liability? So in my case, my land cruiser had over 133k miles on it and even though I could have done flush myself-some services better left to a dealership and not to DIY or “mom and pap shops” that now usually quote you $15-25 below what dealership quotes and good luck chasing those shops if anything goes wrong. Also for at fluid change ($275) they use 4qts when for the flush ($450s) they use 12qts of fluid.
I flushed both of my 95 Corollas. One started shifting odd, the other wasn't. Both turned out ok. Both had over 150,000.
I went to a transmission shop to do the flush. My car has 100k miles and I have no idea if the previous owner maintained the transmission or not. After the service, my transmission is more responsive and smoother. I don't know if I've got lucky, but the flush improved the gear shifting and smoothness of the ride.
You had to know the state of the fluid to see if it was ok or not to replace it
I recommend adding a 1x1/2x1/4 neodymium magnet into the pan. It will attract the metal”paste” much better than the little weak factory magnet. That metal paste can damage the electronic solenoids that are also swimming in contaminated transmission fluid
Love all your videos
Thank you
Great information! Thank you
It used to be all maintenance manuals said that when you flush out the transmission and replace the filter ,...... you also adjust the bands?
I always do it early. If the manufacturers recommendation is 30K I do it at 25K and then 60K, 100K etc. if you tow do it more often. If your vehicle has one of those radiator trans coolers add another one
that’s air cooled after it. it’s a shame that this is not done more transmissions could be saved.
after scotty who i like is you.keep it up
Be aware that Toyota WS Transmission fluid tends to turn almost black in relatively short usage. It does not mean the fluid is bad! All ATF has a dye added(red) because the fluid is clear after its blended. For example TES-295 TranSynd turns yellow/orange in use, but is known to last a LONG time. Appearance is not always indicative of condition. A UOA (used oil analysis) is the best way to evaluate fluid health unless it’s got metal and is obviously burnt smelling.
In other words if your transmission has problems new fluid won't fix it. Pro Tip, It might not have the problems in the first place if you changed the fluid when you were supposed to.
I had my 2006 Scion with over 140k on it flushed and filter changed in 2017 and it still runs like a top today.
Was your scion a manual?
Woopie
Those some bitches are tough as nails dude.
Great information I have no idea that the shops used equipment that could contaminate my transmission
One additive that worked shockingly well to resolve the issue with my Ford 5R55 transmission slamming into reverse was the Hot Shots Secret TSE. It took a little time to work, but the issue gradually got better and better, and no longer does this. There are no fix all additives, but the right ones can work for some issues.
mine does that when its hot.....
Like your vids. Just wanted to let you know that it’s okay to wash the whole truck instead of just under the hood. Keep up the good work
I change my transmission all the time no problem.
What if the fluid is black? 😖
@John Smithy if its black doesnt that mean the parts ARE corroding and without the junk in there is a good chance they will slip?
I hate it when my transmission gets dirty and I have to replace it so the fluid doesn't get damaged and slip
@@a2isha yes sir !
Nice
I find this interesting because I was having issues with my transmission solenoids going out and the transmission slipping. The fluid was old & dark and probably well past the point where it should have been changed from the prior owner so I just drained the old fluid out, changed the transmission filter & pan seal, & changed the solenoids and although it has a bit of issue trying to get into second gear before it warms up but gets warm fast & starts working fine after that. I've had to drain more of the old fluid and add new fluid because the torque converter has a ton of fluid in it so just been draining and adding until I get the old stuff out and had to drop the pan and clean the filter a few times because of old crap jamming it up but it's still going for now. I'm gonna have to have it rebuilt eventually but trying to get as much life out of it as I can and so far it hasn't costed me much to keep it running.
Very good advice !!!
It's been a year now that i changed my car's transmission fuel 5 times it smelled pretty bad and it was dark drives like a champ mow is a 2006 Chavy aveo.
For all my E and F series Ford Trucks I drop the pan, clean the magnet and replace the filter and pull the plug on he torque converter every 20,000 miles. They hold approx. 4 gallons total. My seem excessive but my service trucks last 300,000 to 500,000 miles. Just my opinion...
You have a good method. A lot of vehicles don't have a plug on the torque converter, though.
@@hanskinslo326 Yes, plugs are usually on older vehicles , 60s & some 70s. Most trans w/ lock up torque converters have no plug.
With Older honda you do it every other oil change.
john still have an 04 and never flushed it and has 270k miles. So guess either or, doesn't matter 😂
Really depends how much stress you put on the transmission. I had a truck that would tow as close to 90mph as I could get. I replaced the trans and rear diff fluid between 15,000 and 25,000mi just like you're saying. But that was a stick shift. Really just depends. The same truck did not need the front diff fluid for >60,000mi. And the transfer case fluid lasted about 50,000mi. I'd definitely say you're numbers are accurate from the quality of fluid I've seen come out around those intervals in trucks used for service.
Got a towncar with a trans that shifted rough at 160k miles. Did a trans flush. Shifts like a dream.
Thank you for the good advice👍
Same for engine oil changes😎
1:25 😭😅😂 tell me that's a finger
LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THAT reminds me of this one time with my ex...it was a Saturday night back in 2006 and we .... ..... .....
Hahah
@@bob-pr8ye ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
It's he's dipstick 😄
@@bob-pr8ye lmaoooo 😄
been changing the fluid in my 84 Bronco for decades. C6 auto. drop the pan, replace the filter, drain the convertor, put back together and fill. Over 200k miles without a problem. I have adjusted the bands twice.
84 Bronco 👍 Nice
I have a Ford van with 250k miles..it sat for 2.5 years,drove it from FL to NYC..slipping like mad..I drained all the fluid,including trans cooler and TC.let everything bleed out, overnight,assembled it,running like new
Great vids bro
My 2003 Toyota Sequoia has 269,000 miles. I've had the transmission flushed by the dealer at 30,000 mile intervals. It's due for its 9th flush soon. No issues whatsoever.
I change my transmission fluid on my 2012 Honda Civic 1.8 L and the mileage was 92000k( never Been change) I bought the Fluid from dealer it was ATF-DW1 and did the drain and fill n I never had a problem now my car has 143000k on it .
Me too
Change it again!
Doctor Compactor the mileage on my civic now 190k still shifting smooth and this is my Third Automatic transmission fluid change( my first change was 92k miles ) I only use Honda atf-dw1 from dealer
Keep changing it and it will last forever!
The front tires on the GMC look splendid....
The camera was out of focus, look again.
Very informative.
There are some contradictions here. You say never put in additives; then, you say add Lucas Stop Slip Transmission Fluid. I agree that you never put in additives and that includes Lucas. If you transmission is slipping, first verify the fluid level. If the fluid level is OK, then a fluid and filter change may be in order. As for the comment to never let a shop perform a fluid flush, I agree that using a "flush machine" can (in some cases) cause problems; however, some shops use fluid exchange methods that eliminate the possibility of cross contamination.
Regular transmission services that are performed according to the manufacturers procedure and specifications will extend the life of the transmission. The problem is that many people do not perform regular service. They only have services performed after a problem has already developed with their transmission.
The easiest solution is to buy a manual car
Not really, since then you have to deal with clutch issues that can be a bigger annoyance than just changing the trans fluid.
@@iPervy I don't understand what you're saying because both manual and automatic transmission have a clutch...
@@iPervy ive driven more auto vehicles with a slipping trans than ive ever driven manuals with a slipping clutch. Manual is more reliable if you can properly drive it. Plus if you blow a clutch you just switch the clutch instead of having to pull a whole trans apart like an auto.
People can barely operate automatic trans properly, def dont want massive amounts of people stalling out at every damn stop light and sign.
When you drive every day three hours in start/stop/start/stop traffic manual is not an option.
I have a 2014 Sonic and the transmission started slipping at 60k miles. Not knowing any better I got a flush to try and fix it, and it actually worked. It stopped slipping immediately and the car has 100k now with no issues.
I have a 1993 GMC Jimmy, 123,300 miles. I never changed tranny fluid, and occasionally checked the level. The fluid today, Nov 17, 2021, is a brownish red. I will check the overhaul manual before I drop the pan. No drain plug.
The underside of my Jimmy: Oil and brake line leaks, and frame is Rust City. I started removing most of the frame rust, and removing the brake and fuel lines on Aug 12. I cleaned up the fuel lines, which are in good shape, and coated them with Rust Bullet. I replaced the brake lines with the new kind that bend without kinking. Front differential leaks. I still need to install the fuel tank. I've been on this project for over 3 months.
One thing about oil leaks: frame won't rust.
About rust: I found some great stuff. "Rust Bullet". It's around $70.00 a quart. But it doesn't get brittle and flake off like rubberized undercoat. I'm trying my concoction of roofing tar and linseed oil to paint on the frame and in places where I couldn't coat with Rust Bullet. This may attract dirt. But it won't rust.
I want my heap to last for another 28 years.
A question? My wife drives a 2016 Dodge Grand Caravan. It has a 3.6L VVT Flex-Fuel engine mated to a 62TE transmission. I know that Chrysler/Fiat have many problems. Notably with the transmission & electrical. My question is we've owned the van since new with 12 miles on it. The owners manual states a transmission fluid & filter change at 65,000 miles. We currently have 54,286 miles. I've read conflicting opinions on flushing and just changing it. What is your take on this vehicle? I would do this maintenance myself. The local Chrysler/ Dodge dealer wants $329.00 to do the service. When I can do it myself for about $100. Is it difficult since there is no di stick for the transmission. Great engineering in my opinion. Thank you for your advise.
If there is no dipstick, then the trans will have a fill hole on the side used to fill & check fluid level (similar to that of a manual transmission). It should also have a transmission drain plug. Remove the plug, drop the pan, change the transmission filter, replace the old gasket, button it all back up & fill to the level of fill hole with the correct ATF. Buy your wife something nice with the $229 you saved. Your Caravan and your marriage will both last longer as a result.
Using the ol' Scotty Kilmer Lucas oil trick ;)
Thanks for this video
Always something to learn
When you change ATF and filter remember to retorque the bolts in the valve body. See 1Road Suburban ATF and filter change.