Why You Should NEVER FLUSH YOUR TRANSMISSION FLUID!!
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- čas přidán 29. 05. 2024
- Why You Should NEVER FLUSH YOUR TRANSMISSION FLUID!!
In this video I decide to go against the grain here and flush the transmission fluid in my 1995 GMC Suburban.The truck is 24 years old and has roughly 78,000 original miles on it. I've had no issues with the transmission so far but want to keep up with the maintenance and keep this thing running and shifting good. So, out with the old and in with the new! I guess time will tell if this is indeed a bad thing to do on a tranny this old.
Wix Transmission Filter: amzn.to/2WRMIrf
HINT: I bought the Valvoline MAXLife Synthetic ATF at Walmart for just $17 per gallon!! Cheapest by far anywhere!!!
**This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!**
FTC Disclaimer: I am an Amazon affiliate. As such, I earn a percentage of sales made through Amazon Affiliate links found in the description of my videos and on my website and other places. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Next video: Why you should NEVER REFUEL YOUR CAR OR NEVER CHANGE YOUR OIL.
Can't want to see those, especially why to never change oil!🤣
I once worked with a man who never changed his oil, being he had to add a quart per week (every 240 or so highway miles. Instead, he change the filter according to highway usage, which I believe was 5,000 miles on that car. Kind of hard not to blame him, if having to add every week to a 20+ year old car, why crawl underneath? While one could argue to 'get the sludge', that's what the filter is for. He does a proper oil change once per year, and installed one of those B&M kits for fast tranny fluid changes every 10,000 miles. A welder installed some type of washer before the kit.
As for filter changes, he doesn't bother because (1) it's always red & uses RedLine ATF & (2), the 10,000 miles is more frequent than the OEM calls for. Around 60-to 90% of owners, depending on who is collecting the numbers, doesn't bother to do an ATF change unless a shop recommends doing so.
I'll forward him this video to show him the importance of changing AT filter & cleaning the pan well. Don't want that magnet to stop doing it's job!🤣
You want.a.ornamet in your.driveway for Halloween
He did a fluid drain, not a mechanical flush. read up on the difference.
Ok but low-key don't flush your transmission
“if its not broken, dont fix it”
GOOD TIP : I've been playing with transmissions for years. Best trick I know is that removing the dirty old transmission fluid on a full flush is bad, BUT..... REDLINE RACING ATF. Listen closely. High synthetic atf's are very slippery, hence, you flush or even change an old dirty trans may make it start slipping. NOW.. Normal Atf's have to be slippery at any level, for the clutch packs to smoothly grip in the shifts. Say you put in Amsoil signature series ATF. That is very slippery. It will make a transmission with weird shift points start shifting correctly and smoother. BUT this is not good for an OLD worn out transmission that has a slip problem. If You remove the dirty trans fluid, and you lose that dirt to help grip in the clutch packs. (which are like brake pads on brake disk in a way, but many of them stacked, that grab when pressed together within the fluid) So taking out that gripping old dirty fluid and putting in something slippery, will just make it slip more or not grab at all..SO., what I learned is that you can put in this Redline Racing Atf and it's FULL SYNTHETIC, it will grip like the old dirty fluid. .... No Friction modifiers, No slippery stuff. IT GRIPS. Racers use it because they want a slap in grab shift, no delays. Yes shifts will be sharp, but sometimes that's great. You can tweak your shifting too if you have room to play, say you still have some material on your clutch packs. You could use oem atf fluid, or oem atf fluid if its a later car, that is synthetic or part synthetic. Add more redline.. shift better, add more oem or full synthetic, You can play with this. It is a thing to people willing to experiment.
I have taken worn out 200k mile transmissions and done almost full flushes, and added the Redline Racing Atf, and had the clutch pack start gripping and start working again. It doesn't work all the time, but if it just started slipping and you start on it right away, you have good chances. AAmco wont offer any of this help, they will sell you an expensive repair. Just like a dentist won't bond your tooth, they will sell you a crown because it makes them more money and is easier, and not return customers with broken bonding.
Think of this. Everyone says "don't remove the old dirty fluid" and many times they're right. BUT. WHO SAYS YOU HAVE TO THROW OUT THE OLD FLUID ?!? SAVE IT ! .. So, if you flush it, and put in great ATF, like a few quarts of Amsoil Signature series ATF (best of the best) which is 100 percent synthetic, which almost all others are just additives (friction modified) to various atf fluids. Then use the rest of the 5-7 quarts with the appropriate Redline Racing atf, there is a thinker fluid for american cars etc, and a lightweight fluid for Hondas for example. If it works, It's going to work a lot longer. If it doesnt, put the old stuff back. And put it back in a home "flush" method, where you put tubes to the buckets, and start the engine, put in 4 quarts, then again 4 quarts, etc... till its all back. You could also do a "change" if it just started slipping, drop the pan, change filter, add in the 3-4-6 quarts of redline racing atf, and see if it starts gripping again, or works like new, who knows.
So if this new fluid change doesn't fix your problem, you can always put the old stuff back in.
No one uses this mindset, I hope I reach 1 person and help them. Tricks of the ATF fluid change.
Can get you many more miles out of your transmission. Research compatibility of every fluid you try. There is a correct ATF for toyota in the Amsoil brand. Redline ATF , make sure it's recommended for your vehicle and if a Honda i'd say the lightweight ATf Redline. High end ATf's will exceed many manufacturers brands, and a single Amsoil Atf will work in very many cars and makes. Must do research.
And there's your Dinner !
I've been doing this for 30 years. Step 1: Loosen the top cooler line going into the trans and connect the hose to drain. I usually pump until bubbles but then I wait a few minutes you will get at least another quart or more then do it again unless you like making a mess. Step 2: Remove pan replace filter, FILTER SEAL, and gasket. Those seals are made to stick to the filter first time they get hot and they will no longer seal reliably being re-used. Step 3: Pour in FIVE quarts of fluid and pump it out again until the fluid runs nice and red. Top it off. No need to do more, or less.
After nearly 10 years in the auto service industry I honestly believe regular trans flushes is one of the best services you can do for your pocketbook long term.
“Regularly” is the key word.
I absolutely agree, especially in manual transmission preventing wear and tear of the gears
Bet ya wouldn't say that if ya were in Australia with how they charge for tranny fluid here then the price of the service kits basically anything here as far that stuff goes its a rip off through our auto shops now cause they don't want the average joe to do this stuff themselves to the point they stopped putting dipstick tubes on autos here 20 yrs ago so only tranny joints can do the work
I couldn't agree more. I have a number of equipment that all use oilnincluding my vehicles and short intervals extend the life indefinitely.
@@davidmackieson4609 the dip stick has been removed because the use of Sealed transmissions have been taking over the market, a sealed trasnmission usually doesnt require check and fill, this is why there is no dipstick, a plug on the side of the tranny upper level will be the access port and where you check for level, once the plug is removed a small ammount should want to leak out. The Reason you stated is simply false, it isnt to rip you off, it is because the equipment is serviced differently,.
I did this to my 5.7L Ram at about 95,000 miles. Initially it shifted a little strange but I'm guessing the computer figured itself out and now it shifts firmer and smoother than before. Definitely something that SHOULD be done.
How about now? Is the transmission still shifting good?
@@AlexR-on3ct Everything is going great. Smooth and consistent shifts.
@@M--76The problem is people do this when the transmission is already a lost cause because they waited to late and then they blame the flush
Exactly changing the fluid when it's a lost cause is the problem. The clutch wear is still in the fluid so when they change it it removes clutch material so it slips
No its not the flush, its the fluid used. Most of vavolines and castrols fluids are not at oem viscosities. Oem only!!!
You are screaming even louder than Scotty
haha... I did lower the volume on my computer
Yeah, the dude is a bit hyper.
@@kaffetrakter4174 "stay away from , they're not built like a Toyota or Lexus. Have I mentioned BUY A TOYOTA OR LEXUS?!"
But he's got the dialog of Chris Fix.......IS this what Chris Fix and Scotty combined sound like?
@@shimes424 😂😂😂 and it is Scott speaking 😂
THANK YOU for speaking up so I can hear you. I was so pleased that I had to reduce the volume a small amount on my Laptop - cause UN-like lots of videos, I actually hear what you were saying. As a former transmission mechanic I can say most of this is correct.
As an apprentice mechanic in the uk, I was always taught the the best maintenance I could give a car was an oil change, that's all oils, engines, gearboxes, axles and PAS.
It's good to see you taking the time to show how simple the job is and the oil, before and after.
Good work, keep it up.
simple but hard work lol
I had this video on mute and it was still too loud.
Doug Zbikowski :)))
It was just right for me , Cuz i don't hear so well anymore! At least he wasn't throwing and flailing his armes and hands around like Scotty
178 PUSSY ASS LIBTARD BITCHS!!!!......TRUMP 2020 UP YOUR ASS'S!!!!LOL
I'd prefer this volume level anyday over those muffled, practically silent movie style videos I routinely come across while on YT.
😂😝🤣
ALL YOU GUYS OUTSIDE OF THE RUST BELT ARE SPOILED lol
thing is so clean. Never find a truck that clean in NY
I stay in Florida. My sister bought a Nissan that just came from Rhode island. I have never seen so much rust under a vehicle I know working on the suspension is gonna be a complete nightmare 😭
Or in pa. Salt kills
pffffft NY try the upper Midwest. Our undersides rot like no ones business with all the salt the roads get. lol
Meanwhile I had a Canadian friend flexing some 20 year old daily driver that was in really good shape. They salt their too, he said the secret was the car got undercoated every year since new. I'm skeptical, but willing to try given its just $100 a year at my local Krown
@@cpufreak101 guess it depends on who coats it. If you haven't done it then its probably not worth it on even a 2 year car. If its a bad coat job it will trap moisture and salt and eat it from the under the undercoat. *EDIT* (I forgot krown is a fluid film vs some of the oil goop like undercoating *) The best advice I've come to know from winter driving is get your car washed often in the winter. 2 times a week if you can, especially after a major salting of the roads.
Love the video/tutorial. With your confidence and outlook, it's encouraging after having heard for years all the warnings, doom and gloom of changing trans fluid. A bonafide transmission shop refused my request for the service you just performed. They said they wouldn't guarantee it would operate well enough afterwards to get me one block down the street. I have an '06 Lincoln Mark LT with Semi-original transmission fluid - What I started doing periodically is siphoning out (thru the fill tube) and replacing 3 - 4 quarts at a time - gradually introducing fresh fluid into the system. I figure after several cycles I'll eventually have diluted and replaced all the old fluid, without a sudden "shock" to the system caused by all fresh at once. Of course this doesn't address the cruddy filter and pan.
The filter media still has to be addressed and most cases dropping the pan and replacing the gasket which most models required depending on the manufacturer, changing filter is always recommended along with the fuel filter change and as well as cleaning off the magnet on the pan
I'm watching this while sitting on the toilet. I'm about to flush it real quick here.
Me too
Me currently
Same
jajajaja
Im droppin a dump and it made me poop harder
I did this exact same method. 1995 GMC SIERRA K1500 5.7 4L60 TRANSMISSION 190,000 miles. 5,600 miles later, ABSOLUTELY Amazing. The transmission has Zero...nada...zilch problems; it shifts like a dream....perfectly smooth. No slipping issue at all. The difference was like night and day.
Updates?
@@101trayday 31,000 miles and the transmission operates perfectly.
@@timallen3166 thanks for replying brother
Was it having any trouble before you did the work, or was it purely preventive?
@@nevillenewman2785 The transmission felt sluggish...the shift points were not predictable.The complete flush and filter completely fix the issues. I did this to my 2016 Chevy Spark also. (Preventive). Make sure to use high quality, correct transmission fluid and parts (AC DELCO not cheap Chinese garbage). Side note: If you have done the flush described in the video and are having shudder issues, try Lubegard 19610 Instant Shudder Fix. If you are feeling "jerk" down or up shifts, try Lubegard 60902 Transmission Fluid Protectant.
When we used to change the fluid this way, we would run the trans through Rev, Neutral, Drive, Low, several times to flush all the passage ways in the valve body and clutches as well.
No reason to ever flush it. A waste of time that shortens its life. People brag they flush them and the trans lasts 200K..well if you didn't flush it would have lasted 500K
@@robertwadas that's a terrible recommendation, I've been a heavy duty mechanic for over 20 years, specialising in hydraulics. Fluids are a lot better than they used to be, but they certainly aren't 500k good, or even 200. lifetime fluids are lifetime of the warranty basically, they should be changed at 100k , if not earlier. Just because they look clean, doesn't mean they are still optimal.
Everyone has a story about their transmission lasting forever without being touched, but it doesn't mean it's good practice. You'll find more failures from not looking after them than people doing preventative maintenance on them.
@@Brettj77 The mechanic is saying same thing. I have never changed it on any car and some hit 500K. Best bet is to put luberplate. I have been an ASE Mastertech since 1986 and worked directly with hydraulic oil companires and taken apart heavy equiptment that actually uses a heavier detergent. If you plan on keeping your car over 300K, maybe the oild today may be better, I trust as it will help keep warranties good. I am not familiar with todays auto trans, I dont keep most cars anywhere past 300K. I guess I def. could be wrong, as we run Cummins trucks with only changing outside oyl filter on leases of 500 K. I guess being a mechanic, I just dont bother as I can pull out a trand, get a kit, rebuild and install as much as a non mechanic would pay double my cost to do that. A mechanics car is noticible cause its usually the loudest as we let mufflers have to fall off before fixing exhaust. I mean my 1982 vette, auto trans is perfect and I would be scared to change trans fluid ! you know it has gunked up material on clutches. When I add, I find lubriplate is good for end and trans.I dont work on the newer cars. Im glad , trans fluid smells !
ASE mechanic .... Nuff said. Lol.
@@robertwadas you’re shyt’en me right
Those 6 ton jacks stands at 4:25 have been recalled by Harbor Freight because of a manufacturing defect that makes it collapse under load.
apparently the jacks were fine. There was a guy who just wanted to use his head as a jack
i had a friends die from the jack stand failure
@@scribtoon7146 nah the jacks are crap. I have a couple. When you lift up on the handle, it should lift up the anvil before dropping it. The 6-ton's from HF dont lift the anvil up, which means it could slip if the handle is bumped or not down all the way. Plus the teeth on the anvil are not long enough, so there's a lot of wiggle room. I only use them in the lowest position now after experimenting with them.
@@frostbite1991 where can I get some good quality jack stands?
@@vegeta9411 go yo Harbor Freight. Get the 6 ton jack stands. Just make sure the anvil goes up when you pull the handle up.. and use only 2 teeth if you're not feeling safe 🤷♂️
This guy has endless energy (heart) to keep all that extra energy from start to finish. 🤙
...for no purpose or use whatsoever.
I will add this. Despite people poking at you I found it very interesting how you did it. Thank you. Good Job!
Listening to this I feel the urge to buy some flex seal 😂
he needs some flex condoms. no wood there.
What if Billy Mays and Phil Swift had a child somehow?
All fluids used in our vehicles have a factory-recommended change cycle. Following these recommendations is key to a long service life from the vehicles. Our shop is located 35 miles from a major city. Folks who live out here but work in the city put on around 70,000 miles each year. With proper maintenance, getting over 300,000 miles and more from a vehicle is quite common.
"All fluids used in our vehicles have a factory-recommended change cycle. Following these recommendations is key to a long service life from the vehicles"....BMW, Subaru, Mercedes and others have for many years had so-called "lifetime" trans fluid. There is no change cycle. Auto manufacturers are in business to make money, not sell cars. Change ATF every 60K miles or less if severe duty. Simple.
Another technique that is more time consuming due to making this a 3 step multi day procedure by having 2 assistants help you. one to start and stop the engine, one to monitor the old fluid coming out and you to pour in the new fluid as the old is going out. for the sake of simplicity, let's say your tranny holds 12 qts. including the torque converter. Set up the hoses as you did, then have 2 empty gallon clear plastic jugs like milk or distilled water on hand. Then as you signal the "starter" to get the motor running, have your funnel in place and a gallon of new fluid while your "catcher" is ready to monitor the old fluid. As best you can pour the fluid in the funnel simultaneously while the old is collecting in the empty jug. Have the catcher yell STOP to the starter as the milk jug gets close to the top. IF you haven't finished emptying the new fluid into the tranny, finish that. Then switch out collection jugs and get another new gallon ready for round 2. Repeat this process with the 2nd gallon and shut the motor off and reconnect the lines and check the fluid level. Two gallons in and two gallons out shouldn't need much topping off. Then drive the vehicle a couple hundred miles and then set up the flush trio once again.
Run the same operation doing 2 1 gallon flush procedures, hook things back up again and drive another couple hundred miles. The third time only do 1 gallon of flushing and shut the motor down . Now pull the tranny pan and filter do the cleaning and brake cleaner stuff and new gasket and bolt torquing. Top off the fluid according to manufacturer's instructions and you have just done a $400 tranny flush for about $150 worth of fluid and filter.
The reason you do this in steps is to avoid "douching" the old tranny fluid all at once with all new fluid because all new fluid could easily shake loose dirt in the system and all of a sudden you have a filter that's overwhelmed by the gunk and tranny fluid passages that clog and the tranny doesn't shift right. By doing it in steps, you avoid the mass of dirt and gunk as the gallons you pour in will mix with the old and gradually clean things out at a pace that the old filter can handle. By the third step, you're ready to replace the filter and put the new one in. Now you have effectively flushed out the torque converter by driving it several hundred miles on increasingly cleaner tranny fluid so when you finally drain the pan and top off the level your new filter will be filtering nearly 95% new fluid .
Yes, this is pretty anal retentive, but if you don't know how old your tranny fluid is, this is the safe way to do it. It could very well save you a $3-4,000 transmission repair/replacement.
Jimmy, I like your style!! Keep up the good work man.
for a 24 year old truck it looks almost new! Inside and out from what we could see!! Keep up the good work!!
You did a perfect job from my experience with these. Ive been doing this stuff for awhile and i can tell you that you should ALWAYS keep your fluid clean (sidenote: although the fluid in your truck was due it really wasnt all that bad for the miles and age, the prior owner was easy on it or cared for it i can tell) the times i have heard or seen a trans fail after a fluid change the transmission was already so close to death from not being maintained it was soon to die anyhow. Anyway you did it right with a good choice in fluid and didnt spill enough to bitch about, great job.
Very well done, it’s nice to see mechanics making an effort.
Hello, dude, I like your videos. As a non native English speaker, I don't need to turn on the closed captions. Your voice is so clear, showing your sincerity and eagerness to share useful and helpful knowledge with people in need of it. Keep up good work.
Thanks for a Great vid. Excellent suggestion to use an accurate torque wrench.
Now I want to see you team up with Scotty for a "I'm not screaming, you're screaming" vid
After seeing the title, I thought, "hmm, lets see why this guy thinks I should never do this", so I watched it.
Guess which bit o' knowledge I'm still missing. -_-
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. Wtf man
😂😂😂😂😂😂 me too!!
Same lol
I’ve been mechanic for years and saw this so had to watch and I’m just as lost lmao.. I guess we all clearly missed his point.
NvrUseYur RealName I think the title is him being facetious. But I have heard some mechanics say that it should not be changed. But the auto manufactures recommend changing it every 50 to 75, 000 miles. I do it to my cars and get over 200,000 miles out of the transmissions. I have always owned GM products except for my first car that was a 57 Ford Fairlane. Sold it when I got a good deal on a 66 Impala SS. Every thing since then has been a GM product.
Jimmy, I am happy I stumbled upon this video! I don't have a Chevy truck, but I did learn a bit more about taking care of the transmission. Live Long and Prosper, Jimmy! :)
Super helpful for my upcoming diff fluid changes. After three of your videos, I am now subscribed. Great lighting, no annoying background music and sound reasoning. Thanks sir!
There is a big difference between a low pressure flush as per done in this case. And a full high pressure flush that could further damage your clutches using a flushing machine. So yes and thankyou for your xtra educational vid.
"Why You Should NEVER FLUSH YOUR TRANSMISSION FLUID!!" (proceeds to flush out tranmission)
What he did ia not even a flush. It was fluid replacement only but he he called it a "flush". He's a confused guy.
I was thinking the very same thing after watching...well it did get me to watch so there ya go.
I wouldn’t flush it at a shop I think they use pressure and you will end up with more leaks than you had I’d change it but not flush I guess he don’t know the difference
I ABSOLUTELY AGREE, for example when he shows the metal in the old filter, I considered that the filter WAS doing its job. I have seen many screw-ups by kids working at quick oil change shops doing real damage at this. I currently am driving a 21 year old Buick LeSabre with over 100,000 mils and the HORRIBLE :-) original fluid in it and it shifts and works perfectly. This transmission fluid change is like the air filter scam, or the NITROGEN tire inflation stuff. I know you cant hear me but I am SCREAMING just like he did, but I am saying "IF IT ISNT BROKE, dont touch that transmission".
It's called 'click-bait'....
I would say, don't screw the vinyl hose into the radiator cooler. Buy a fitting, it might be brass or it might be plastic, screw it in and fit a hose over the fitting. I say this because a fragment of vinyl could end up in the valve body.
Yes I would have done what you did, I like the way you pumped that old transmission fluid out, I always used a pump machine, but your way of thinking is legit!
WOW - your GM looks so clean underneath. This is a well maintained vehicle - very impressed.
My dad started me removing transmissions when I was 7 or 8 I was just a kid. but I had a great teacher. Thanks, Dad taught me safety first.ie chocking wheels setting brakes.seting up jacks even and jack stands.seting up transmission jack to support removal. Removing Cross member and drive shaft with universal replacement. I miss going to an old car junkyard and searing for classics. I'm 52 and can pretty much fix anything. Great video bro. A little loud.
Thank you SO MUCH for this video! I was planning to do this to my 1997 4l60e too but was not sure exactly how to do it. Now I do! Yes, I will do this for the same reasons you did. Yes it makes me nervous but oh well! Full steam ahead.
I owned an rx300 and regular trans fluid changes were a must to avoid toasted fluid destroying the trans prematurely. Older trans could go years with so much as the fluid changing colour. If you don't have the ability to do flushes just do two changes very close together and put a trans cleaner in the first change. Ive done that a few times in different cars
I'm in agreement with most of what you said except - "Put a trans cleaner in the first change"... My advise is NEVER put in a transmission additive especially one meant for cleaning! Dumping any sort of solvent into the ATF is asking for trouble and I'd never do it to any car of mine. And don't forget ATF is a powerful solvent all by itself. So there is nothing a solvent is going to do inside the trans that the ATF isn't already doing thus no need for it, and you might make things actually WORSE by an additive.
The video was enjoyable and covered the basics. Anyone that's annoyed by this guy's voice or lack of mechanical knowledge should tune out and skip the negative comments. Keep up the good work!!!
uh mechanical knowledge is the purpose of the video and getting it right is the difference between good and a 2000+ dll Trans getting trashed. this isnt everyone gets a trophy be nice...
Amen. Why can’t people say what they want without trashing what someone else is doing. If you’re watching this you should be doing other research as well for the project at hand, but hiding in your house and name calling or bashing what others are offering as their experience is cowardice in the least and honestly like my departed father use to say, if you’re going to talk about me, talk to me but if you’re going to talk to me like some of these people, protect your neck.
On the cooler fitting. In my best Yoda voice: "Crescent wrench leads to vice grips. Vice grips leads to the dark side of gnarly, rounded off fitting."
A Jedi uses his flare nut wrench light saber. Use the force.
If it sticks, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway.
Navy maintenance manual, per Chief Petty Officer Duhhuh
@Jay Smith so by using wd40 you can use the improper tool for the job?
You shouldn't take the pan off like that. You had it right in the beginning, but trying to take it off level never works. So when you get down to the last couple of bolts on one side, or one corner, just start loosening those up. As the pan slowly tilts, it will pour more fluid out of the pan from the opposite corner. keep doing that until you run out of one of the bolts. Now you have one left. Push the pan back up flat, remove the last bolt, _then_ lower the pan flat as you can. You'll have much less fluid to deal with and it's far less likely to spill in your face.
That is the way I drop the transmission pans.
@@billmorris2613 Me too!👍
That’s the way my dad taught me.
Bit 01 I still wonder why they do not put a drain plug in a transmission pan.
@@billmorris2613 I guess because it doesn't get changed out very often. I've seen drain plugs in stock pans, but rarely.
Awesome video, man. Thank you for making it I feel like it wasn’t too long but also you covered all the important stuff. I didn’t feel like you left anything out. Good editing and camerawork too. Subbed 👍
BACK FLUSH is what you might do to cooling system.
BACK FLUSH is what you NEVER want to do on a transmission.
FORWARD FLUSH (i.e., just REPLACE) is okay.
--
Things I do different:
#1 I use a short (nipple size) steel line that I hose clamp a hose to
rather than relying on threading a hose into the radiator
#2 Use a plastic trashcan, not a drain pan, to catch the used fluid
#3 Continuously pour new fluid into trans-fluid inlet while the old is being pumped out
Yes, you might use 3-4 times the fluid capacity of the trans just for one change
Considering how often this fluid change is done, it is worth it.
You do NOT want to see bubbles in the old fluid, you instead want to see clean fluid coming out the hose.
He wasn't back-flushing though. That would require an external pump to pump fluid back into that hose he had hooked up to the radiator. That was a simple flush, although I wouldn't let air get to the pump. Quart or 2 out, quart or 2 in.
@John Doe I think you're right. I think it's best if you just drain the pan and add the same amount of new fluid that you've just drained. Then drive it for a few days. Then do the drain and fill again. This process will introduce the new fluid slowly. Eventually the old fluid will get diluted and be mostly new. I would only do this if you have a transmission drain plug. Removing the pan each time would be a pain in the butt!!! Again, this method is for the slow introduction of the new fluid. *****Those reading this because your already feeling or hearing problems in your transmission will probably not gain any benefit from doing this. It would be less harsh on your trans, but I think your trans is too far gone already. Do this method BEFORE you start to have problems and I bet your trans will last much longer!
@@myemail2005 ..Fractional dilution.
much like a brake bleed...#3 makes sense
Very well done-- I like the idea your audio is clear, and narrative well-organized and smoothly delivered. Your lighting and camera angles are perfect-- no arms or shoulders to block the camera view. While some viewers complained about "shouting", a volume adjustment takes care of that, easily-- I would rather hear every word, than wonder what the narrator said at certain points. Best of all, you make clear where extra care is required. Of course, I subscribed.
They make drain plug kits you can put in the pan. Do this the first time you drop the pan, and next time it will be far easier to drain the fluid. Also, a little trick for engine oil pan and transmission pan gaskets... simply tie them in place with a piece of sewing thread going through the bolt holes and around the edge. Tie them just tight enough to hold in place, but not distort the gasket. You don't have to do every hole. On the trans pan, two on each side and the ends is enough.
Every car I've taken the pan off the magnet is covered. I don't remember if I've dropped the same transmission pan more than once though so maybe just cleaning the magnet off once is good enough.
I installed a drain plug on my ‘11 F150, when I did the first pan service ( I hear it’s not good to change all the fluid you possibly can). Some mechanics say you don’t need to change the filter every time either, so at this point I plan on just draining the pan and replacing that much fluid in about 30k miles.
I installed a drain plug in mine, mostly just to avoid the spill that comes when trying to keep the pan level as I move it slowly to avoid sloshing. There's just no need for that sort of entertainment! 😧
I found a short bolt to use for a drain plug, and a nut to match it. I drilled a hole in the pan near the rear, and welded the nut to the inside of the pan. Use a copper washer on the plug. Now you can drain the pan before removing it. Having the plug in the rear gets the pan nearly empty, since the front end of the truck is usually jacked up while pulling the tranny pan. This method is happily less entertaining when you pull the pan to change the filter and clean the magnet!
Love your videos, clean and clear explained with some small sarcasm ;) 🙏😁
Nice job. I usually warm the trans up ,Get biggest drain pain you can find first loosen all the pan bolts and let excess fluid drain , then hold pan up and take out 3 sides of bolts except for the opposite side that I wish pan to tilt to. Remove pan , remove filter. The filter seal is easier than you think . Just V it inwards with a awl and hammer and use a deep socket to drive in new filter seal. It is a good idea to make sure all valve body bolts seem snug. Clean pan and magnets , install new filter. Over fill the trans a couple quarts from what was drained. Remove cooler line or hose and also run a hose from end of disconnected line or hose into a drain pan .Start and run vehicle and back light the fluid coming out to see when it comes out clean and turn off engine, add to trans what came out and subtract the 2 extra quarts you overfilled to figure what you need to add , then warm transmission and recheck level for what you still need to add, and hopefully no flare on shifting or need to add Lucas Transmission Mucas , LOL
Stay away from the dealer sold flush services that use cleaner solvent or that don't address changing the sump filter .
I must say this. These DAMN CAR COMPANIES SHOULD PUT A DRAIN BOLT IN THE PANS.
Toyota does
They have a kit to drill your pan to install a drain bolt. Love mine. So much easier
@@Khaztr Yuppers! 96 Tacoma - DRAIN PLUG!
@@Khaztr Yup, my xB has one.
Why would Ford make it easier for you to do a fluid change? Now, they put the frickin' dipstick, a 3" one, under the vehicle, when you have to check the transmission fluid level. Rocket science.
Thanks for the flushing plan. I made a flat wooden plate to go on my bottle jack. Put it under the trans pan, take the pan bolts out, and let the jack down. Didn'tspill a drop.
My 2003 s-10 Chevy truck 2.2l I done the flush exactly following the same steps on your video only have a 84000 original miles ....it shifts like a dream ....thanks Jimmy for your great advice..GOD blessed you
Lots of misinformation in the comments. First, this isn't a flush. This is a fluid change. He didn't cause damage. Second, on the matter of a transmission going out after a fluid change - Hogwash. Years as a tech for GM. It's a lot of nonsense propped up by shadetree mechanics unaware of what they're doing or what actually caused the failure. Flush is indeed bad. Never, ever do it. Not at a dealer and not at any other shop no matter how hard they try to sell it. But the reason you hear SO many people say "I changed my fluid/filter and 3 days later my transmission went out" is because 99% of those people changed fluid and filter because they noticed an issue with slippage or other tranny trouble and it was their first course of action trying to prevent failure or fix the problem. Most of them add BS like Lucas friction modifiers with the fluid and filter and mess things up even worse. By the time you're experiencing symptoms like that it is indeed much too late to change fluid and the detergents in the new fluid will definitely break down the friction in the clutches (at that point most of the friction is from grit and metal shavings embedded in the clutches) and sometimes cause the clutches themselves to fall apart as they were partially held together and kept in service by all the muck. The detergents in fresh fluid will clear that out and for lack of a better term, dry the clutches out and they just disintegrate. Once you're at that stage changing fluid and filter will absolutely cause it to fail almost immediately and always within a few thousand miles where it may have otherwise gone on quite a while longer but was still ultimately on it's way out.
If you're not experiencing tranny issues, even if your fluid is dark and nasty (unless severely burnt) - you're fine to change your fluid and filter. Never flush, but this wasn't a flush. This was a fluid change. A flush REQUIRES a pressurized flush machine such as a BG machine and a flushing chemical (like BG).
@@NorthernCorruptionMonitor907 the fluid exchange machine at the dealer I worked at would hold 16 quarts. Simple old school T-tech machine.
GREAT information. I'll get my replace money together before I change the fluid. I'm noticing a 2-3 "flare" when shifting at low speed. If the throttle is held down a good amount, the flare doesn't happen. 2007 Escalade.
Adam, that is by far the best description of exactly what happens. If it wasn’t maintained for 100,00 miles, it’s going to fail and trying to get by at that point will hasten the demise of an abused trans. In short, it’s not the cleaning that kills it, it’s the past neglect.
Adam Placker You hit the nail on the head! If i hear someone say “Transmission Flush” that tells me they are idiots or crooks! Those JiffyLube type outfits pull that bullshit all the time on people that know nothing about vehicles.
Adam Placker, you may be partially right, but you're 100% wrong. "Lots of misinformation in the comments. First, this isn't a flush. This is a fluid change." First off, the misinformation was in the video title "Why You Should NEVER FLUSH YOUR TRANSMISSION FLUID!!" Even if this was a "fluid change" and not a "flush", then after we follow the title and watch a 12 minute video, the video should answer any questions it purports to address and make any distinctions in such terminology that need to be made--and without all the crazy yelling. I reported this to CZcams as MISLEADING because it is, and I heartily encourage others to do the same. We don't need punk titles, we don't need Rick-Rolling, we don't need Billy May Hayes reincarnated, and we don't need misguided people defending them for using punk titles.
Best video this far love changing my transmission fluid tomorrow.
Thank you for showing how to flush/change the transmission fluid. This is something that most drivers ignore.
The fluid is brown mud because of clutch wear. You've got worn steels turning on burnt clutches held in by a bunch of hard old seals. You've just changed the viscosity of the transmission fluid, making it even more slippery. Now its just like new! What could possibly go wrong? If you didn't change it at the service intervals, leave it alone and start saving up for a rebuilt unit.
I've been a mechanic for 45 years and I say if you are going to do the flush at home this process is probably the best that I have seen (probably a better way than having the dealership do it), as far as putting the bolts in the same hole that they came out of......a little over the top but whatever turns your wobulator...........Good video
I had assumed he had done that in case there were different length bolts on the pan but the ( Should be all the same size/length) then again some vehicles can be odd.
Yes, he's very thorough.... and loud... I'm sure he's never heard the expression "speak up, son!"😱
You have never had to take bolt out cause it's too long
And the extra set of jack stands was over kill too.
@Nathan Hanson or if you don't have enough experience to know what you're talking about like you. The larger jackstand has way more than enough capacity to safely hold the vehicle up. The extra jack stand just gets in the way. If you are frightened to work under a vehicle, pick a different pastime.
The myth about flushing your transmission came about in the old days before Lock-Up Converters. During that time transmission temperatures would get pretty high and bake the internal seals. When that happens that old, thick, chocolate color fluid would build up a layer of varnish in the pistons, drums and servos. It would act as a seal holding fluid pressure. The clean and highly detergent new fluid would wash out that varnish and cause a pressure loss in the hydraulic circuit. When that happens you transmission will begin to slip or fail to engage at all. However, with the new cooler running transmissions flushing is a great way of keeping it working great. I've even had slipping transmission begin to work better after a flush and continue to do so for many years later. The MotorVac Transmission flush works great, very easy to use, eliminates the mess associated with transmission service and after service pan leaks.
But it wasn't a myth because it actually DID mess up lots of people's transmissions!! how is that a myth? Why would anyone trust these flush machines now? that's ridiculous
@@Fremen02 That was not a myth prior to lock up converters. Because torque converters created a lot of heat which broke down fluid and harden the internal seals. However, it would build up a thick varnish that internal helped the internal seals. When flushed it would remove that varnish causing the seals to loose pressure. Varnish did not reduce pressure but did reduce volume. Resulting on slower clutch engagement causing more wear on the fiber clutches and creating hot spots on the steels. That's just the short explanation. Anyhow, I've done hundreds of demonstrations across the U.S. and have solved many transmission issues with a MotorVac flush unit. I also have 30 years experience as a transmission builder, shop owner and another 10 years instructing others. It still is amazing that the current myth or lie still continues.
Very informative. Now I know what to expect when I flush my own transmission on my spare car. Been researching a lot of videos. This one was definitely helpful.
Excellent explanation and video. I've seen some other similar videos that begin with sticking a vinyl hose down the trans dip stick tube and pumping out the oil from the pan so that it's much easier to handle and less likely to spill when you drop it.
You can even put the hose into the pan after slightly lowering it from the tranny. Drain it some more this way.
But wait, there's more!!
That's funny
I like the full tilt volume! And cool idea to use the baggies to make the point. Torque check good idea! Some parts are alum, so, magnet not work, so, changing filter is must. :-)
Maintain it, so yes I would. You sound like a radio announcer. Great job! I still would use line wrenches on the trans line fitting.
People commenting on the volume will be delighted to know there are a plethora of volume control options built in to every device imaginable. You're supposed to use those at your own discretion to raise or lower the volume of the content you're watching.
Do an update 2 to 3 years later and let us know if the trans is still running im curious
78k I would do it after a smell test. If it smelled burnt, then it's a crapshoot. I would like to mention you are fortunate to have the shift cable bracket bolted with the pan bolts instead of those torx bolts above in the case. Also the exhaust wasn't in the way and dang man, living in northern New England it would be a treat to work on an old thing like that.
It definitely depends on the mileage and upkeep of the vehicle as well as make and model if you have an older American made vehicle with 200k on It and it’s never had a transmission flush, do not flush It. It will cause major slipping and may become completely undriveable without a transmission rebuild. If you have a vehicle like this that’s older but only has around 80k miles you should be totally fine servicing the transmission changing the filter out and changing the fluid, remember most manufacturers recommend you get a trans flush every 60k-75k miles so he’s literally not that late for a transmission flush. The reason mechanics will tell you not to do a trans flush is because you have an old vehicle with a huge amount of mileage on It that has a bunch of dirty fluid that is actually helping the transmission still run, you change out that fluid though with a worn transmission and all that gunk is gone and clean fluid makes It slip. It’s that simple. If that doesn’t apply to you, you should definitely get your transmission serviced when your vehicle manufacturers tell you to. The problem is a lot of mechanics run into people with transmissions on their last leg trying to just get a transmission flush thinking it’s gonna help but it’ll just make things worse. So to save you the money and the mechanic the time and stress they let you know that you need to get a transmission rebuild or a whole new transmission.
Will be doing this on my 2002 Suburban! Thanks Jimmy!
Did this on old Caddys, Mercedes Diesels, etc. The Mercs gave a drain plug in both the drain pan AND the torque converter. Designed by the gods (made to be serviced)
I had a Lincoln mark 7 lsc, last year made and the torque converter had a drain plug,,, should be standard on all automatic transmissions.
Chevy Turboglides had them too, the only thing about a turboglide that was good.
@@Augie1979 Should be a law.
Yes they do! My f250 has a drain plug on transmission and torque converter. I just changed my again and was able to get about 14 quarts out of a 17 quart system. No pumping just simply drain and I drained the trans cooler and used a air hose to blow the lines. I even use some friction modifier for the rear differential in the transmission fluid( it won't hurt it, only helps) and the results are amazing can't fill the transmission shift.
My merc tranny leaks constantly from all of the seals and the pan, so I just top it up. Never needs a change!
I'm kinda hard of hearing (partly disabled vet) and the sound level was/is perfect.
Hilarious
Ex artillery?
Excellent Job Brother !
Thank you for sharing this Excellent Information.
"YOU LITERALLY HAVE TO APPLY TONS OF PRESSURE TO THREAD IT IN!!!" (proceeds to hand-tighten it with his fingers)
mechanics hands and fingers are far stronger than the average guy.
And seasoned mechanic will use extension and socket to get them hand right. Running them down with fingers is pointless. Idiot use powered device that don’t know what there doing.
Super job
that's the way I would do it if somebody could help me but nobody would take the time to do it like you do .
you are the best bro. keep them clean and keep on running great job brother Serperior
Keith Kuhn
I would love to help ya ...i absolutaly mean that working on cars n trucks is the next best thing to sex ..drugs .. Rock n roll ...
I just did a drain and fill (probably the first ever) with my 26 year old 62k Mazda protege. I didn't go synthetic because the transmissions of that time used thicker fluids (dex iii/Merc) Shifting is much smoother now and there is less vibration, no problems.
Did a great job, Jimmy!
Thank you a lot for this video, I learned never to try this myself, buying jack stands, laying in
"NEVER Flush your transmission!"
FLUSHES the transmission?!?!?!
P M this is not considered a flush. It uses the internal transmission pump. Flushing generally means hooking up an external machine that has its own pump and pushes for lack of a better word new fluid throughout the transmission. Quite different end results.
@@condor5635 Still doesn't get around to vehemently explaining "why you shouldn't".
Pynaegan because using an external machine with its own pump (and unknown pressures etc) is thought to be more likely to dislodge particles etc. that could then clog up ports etc. The internal pump would not do this
The way I see it, He did a complete change and even changed the filter. If he were to just flush it, the pan never would have come undone and the filter would still be in place. You remember the magnet with the shavings? There could be more!
Do as I say! Do not do as I do.
Perfect Video for what I need to do! Thanks!
i found the infomercial outstanding on how to pay my electric bill. lmao
Love the "Cardboard Template" for the pan bolts.
Flush Everything!!!
Completely pointless since all bolts are the same
😂
@@jessjohn6157
Good to know thanks
The way he put the pan on was perfect. That is where most people mess up and have issues later.
Keeping the bolts in the same hole is stupid unless some of the bolts are of different lengths no need to keep them separated that's just over kill !!!
I love the way you talk and explain so clear, thank you for this video
A Finned aluminum oil pan With the drain plug is less than $75 delivered to your front door. making drain very sensible from here
Plus the Aluminum reservoir cooling affect you benefit from.
I just installed one few hours ago.
Tomorrow will do the run-purge scenario like you demonstrated here.
7:17 Just a suggestion, I use popsicle sticks to take the old gasket off. The razor blade, might etch the rim of the pan.
Or a plastic panel removal tool :p
Smart idea!!
I just changed out the transmission fluid on a 2003 Buick Century with 69,000 miles on the 4T65e model.
I changed out the pan to an aftermarket aluminum model with cooling fins.
The fluid was very dark amd there was a large amount of debris. The magnet was full of metal shavings.
I replaced the filter and bolted up the new pan. Filled the transmission with 8 quarts. Then I pulled the line out of the radiator and started the engine, pumping another four quarts out of the torque converter. I filled the transmission with another 4 quarts. I used a total of 12 quarts of AC Delco fully synthetic Dexron VI fluid which is backwards compatible with Dexron III.
I ran into one complication. I twisted the head off of one of the bolts while torquing it down. I had to replace the single bolt. That was a job. I had to drill into the bolt and lightly hammered a star driver into it. It twisted out relatively easily. The new bolt went right in.
The replacement pan has a drain plug which will make the next fluid change so much easier.
I am in full agreement that one should change out the transmission fluid regularly.
Especially seeing the amount of debris on the magnet and the appearance of the old fluid. While I did not take the time to open up the old filter, it probably looked much like the filter in this 4L60e transmission.
Anyhow, nice video.
Here's my story. Same transmission in a '97 Blazer. 205k miles when I bought it used (obviously). The transmission worked normal. I started by disconnecting the top radiator transmission line & flushed out a gallon at a time. I've never seen such brown, used transmission oil. I mean it was brown. No burnt smell though. After I had flushed the transmission entirely with Supertech ATF, I dropped the pan & replaced the filter & pan gasket. At 230k I flushed again though no filter change. Around 245k I flushed only one gallon of ATF. At 250k the transmission still works fine, though it leaks pretty good (oil pump o-ring) due to being old.
It's actually not bad for 24 years of old fluid. A lot of it just clutch and band material that won't damage the transmission. Anything bigger will be filtered. However, viscosity of old fluid might be too thin to allow all the bands and clutches engage properly.
Great video! The title got my attention and the video quality kept me watching. Nice DIY method to change the fluid.
All. Best Jimmy,
Such a great done job.
For me , not even professional mechanic shops will explained better. 👍👍👍
I recently purchased a 2006 Ford Escape with 260,000 km, it has a lifetime filter and the dextron v to be changed every 35,000ish km, I’m debating it was changed a couple of times, I did a head to toe fluid change and noticed a huge improvement instantly
great video. glad to see someone else taking care of tnere vehicle.
You should like a commerical! "Sham WOW!!" LOL but great video. New sub!
As a ASE tech yes ! Oil breaks down must be changed when needed !
Awesome bro,thank you for the video👍
Great job! Very thorough with exceptional step by step instructions. Love the cardboard template.
24 years later this vehicle is in such a great shape
yeah... after this video im convinced I dont need to change the fluid LOL.. Ill not spend 24 years with my car
That truck must have never spent a single day in a rust belt state.
When my Ford 6R60 transmission started acting odd, taking a second or two to drop into gear and not shifting as well as before, I decided to flush it, replace the filter and flush it again. The other option was to replace it, which costs more and is a real pain with a 4x4. So far no more problems.
Recently did this on a 2005 Cadillac escalade. Escalade had a slight shutter. After completely changing all the fluid out and a bottle of Lucas thing drives like a Cadillac again..... Appreciate the info and the support in the comments keep up the good work!
Best 11:56 min invested in a video, gr8 video, very professional. All the way entertaining and didactic
You sound like a mix between ChrisFix Scotty Kilmer.
I don't know how I feel about this, but you are incredibly informative.
I was waiting for him to say "Out with the old......IN WITH THE NEW"
@@badm0t0rf1ng3r
Lol yes!
Very good tutorial for a perfect DIY job!!! A very honest tutorial for everyone!
As others have already said, great video. Everything is clearly visible and discussed and your delivery is as articulate as one could want.
In all seriousness though, the title says "why you should never flush...." I am not a mechanic and I have had two vehicles mechanically flushed by the dealer in recent years with no bad results as of yet...knock on wood. I'm getting too many mixed signals between CZcams, dealer mechanics, and independent mechanics on what is right. Like I said, I have two that have been flushed and many before that that never saw a trans fluid change. To this day, transmission problems are the one thing that I have been fortunate to have not dealt with. So is there a real right answer to flush or no flush? As I'm trying to be a more responsible auto owner, I'd kind of like to know what's actually the right thing to do in this case.
I don't think your question can be answered until we know how many miles you normally put on your vehicles before selling/trading them. If you typically put around 100K or less, and you're not an off-roader, or drag racer, and don't tow a trailer, then you can leave the trans oil changes to the subsequent owner(s). Otherwise, check your owner's manual for the recommended mileage.
@@recentlychanged In the past, I usually dumped a vehicle by 120,000 or so. I'd like to start holding on to vehicles for as long as they'll give me. I've gotten way more responsible with regular maintenance and hope that I can start seeing some vehicles reach 250,000 or 300,000 miles and be payment free for a while.
Also, I don't bother with the domestic brands.
Best way to do a fluid change... I probably would have been filling while its draining tho, but thats just me... well done!