FRONT SHOCK installation trick - Ford Heavy Duty Work Van - Ford E 150 E250 E350
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- čas přidán 21. 03. 2016
- The front shocks on the heavy duty Ford vans can be difficult to replace. The upper shock mounts are hard to access especially on the drivers side. This video will show you the necessary simple tools to get the job done. If the lower front shock mount snaps while removing the 18 mm nut don't panic. Check out my repair video on how to fix it, link is in the description below.
Broken lower shock mount repair: • Ford Van/Truck -Broken...
Link to 15mm ratcheting wrench to make this job easier: amzn.to/2K61hSa
To see more Ozzstar repair videos visit: czcams.com/users/ozzstarvideos
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Thanks for watching, commenting and subscribing! Take it easy - Ozz - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Link to 15mm ratcheting wrench to make this job easier: amzn.to/2K61hSa
Check out other cool tools Ozzstar likes to use in the Amazon store: www.amazon.com/shop/ozzstar
Please don't forget to Comment, Subscribe and Like, it really helps the channel out. Thanks! -Glen
Excellent job!!😀My oil pan is leaking on 2003 van do you have any video or any kind of help how to replace it by myself.?Thanks
Check it out and fry 2 eggs
just to help others reading this, when I worked at a ford dealership back in the 90's, we would remove the bottom first then put a wrench on the top nut via the method you stated then either twist the shock or use the wrench on the shock to remove the nut by spinning the entire shock. Because of that shocks location, the top threads generally aren't too corroded so once it breaks lose, it will spin pretty easily. The top wrench will lock against something holding it in place. I've also seen people use the access hole method too.
Ooooh I like that method spinning the shock. I’ll try that.
Thank you! I just did the rear shocks and had to cut one off. I found that a regular hacksaw blade (for a hand hacksaw that nobody uses anymore) actually fits directly into a Sawzall. You don't need to spend money on a special Sawzall blade. I saved myself a trip to the hardware store by just sticking a brand new hacksaw blade into my Sawzall, then sawing slowly using WD-40 and it cut all the way through the rear shock shaft, just below the seized rusted top nut. I did loosen the nut to expose more of the shock shaft before cutting it. Use WD-40 or water or something to keep the blade cool, a cool blade will never dull.
Just did this!!! One shock scored and snapped for me, the second one I spun the shock. I used a harbor freight vice-grip style oil filter wrench to do the spinning.
Here's what I did. I took it to the shop near me and they did all the work, and I sat home watching CZcams.
Haha now you know how it's done. Sometimes it's much easier to write the check. 😉
I did mine today, passenger side was no problem, drivers side is tougher. You need to pull back the floor covering enough to see where a cable goes through the floor. The cable runs through a rubber boot behind the brake pedal. Pull on the boot and it should pop out. The top of the shock is right there. Use a flex head ratchet wrench to get on the nut , you need a helper to hold the wrench while you turn the top portion of the shock to remove the nut. Install in reverse. I did this without removing the wheel. Hope this helps .
Nobody has a helper unfortunately. Unless you love being around people. I grew up in the shop, because I hate being around people. I am always confused when people suggest using a "helper" to do something haha. I have to figure everything out myself. I guess I'll have to cut mine off.
my helper is ME , and sometimes he has questionable work ethics
I have a 2000 7.3 Excursion and this is the only video that comes close to showing you how to tackle that freakin hard to access top nut. Thanks for taking the time to show us how!
Thanks for your comment Bonita. I try to make car related videos that are helpful and worthwhile to film.
On driver side pull up carpet and between brake and gas on the floor there is an access hole with a cable going through it. Remove plug without disturbing cable and the top nut on shock is easily accessible. At least that's how it is on my 2001 e250.
Wade Guidry anyone know what the cable is actually to?
Wade Guidry, I tried your good idea on my E 250 and it worked great,THANK YOU!
And all this time I thought I was the only one that knew that trick. I use that access hole to put the new shock on. To get the old shock out I just use a sawzall all with a short blade and cut it off from underneath falls right out. Takes about 3 minutes.
@@everybodylovesscout shift cable for the transmission
@@cfh4201969 I miss mine, an old man failed to yield right in front of me and it got totalled last year. Those old vans are great.
Thanks ford for making life interesting.
😄
Once again you came to the rescue. That driver side front shock is a bugger. I thought I'd need a special tool to get it but when you mentioned about going in from under the truck inside frame it made all the difference. You're awesome! Thanks for the help.
Thanks John, I appreciate your comment.
Today, I followed this steps in my Powerstroke E-350 van! It's really pain in the ass do this work, but after that, you can celebrate with a nice and cold beer! Now, I need to replace the shock mount . Thanks for the tips!
Not something you want to do everyday. Enjoy that cold beer!
Great video thanks. I figured I would have to cut the old shocks out. Watching you talk about the job gives me a little more confidence to do it myself. I blew a shock this week and figured I'd tackle it myself this weekend. I'm too busy to lose the van to the mechanic for even one day. Too bad the van won't fit in my garage and it's 33 degrees out!
Nothing makes a job harder than stiff frozen fingers. Good luck with the shock replacement and hope it works out well for ya. Take it Easy - Ozz
Thanks for the details. Now I feel more motivated to tackle the shocks on my E-350 school van ; )
Helps to know what you may be getting into....auto repair stress is no fun! Take care
Thank you for taking the time and explain how this particular replacement is done. I can't thank you enough.
You're welcome Jose.
I second that. Thank you!
I gotta do the shocks on my E-250 and now got some good tips. Thanks.
Oby-1 thanks for your comment.
Just wanna say, thank you! I wish you and yours all the best. Your videos have saved me a ton of time and money. Be well buddy
You're welcome Pauly, glad the videos have helped you out. -Glen
Thanks for the tips. Getting ready to do the same on my van. 2004.
Just did this yesterday on my 2006 E350 and found that a 15mm flex-head ratchet wrench was much easier to use that the standard ratcheting wrench shown. I had no rust issues so I dont envy you there! I installed some Bilsteins which have a 3/4 (19mm) nut and also used a flex-head wrench for installation.
It's nice to have lots of tools. Thanks for watching and commenting
Kills me that it's so hard to replace parts that they *know* are going to wear out. Heater cores are my other favorite. Good work dude.
thanks. Limited working room situations like this I expect on German cars but a big ass American Ford cargo van?? Not sure what the engineering were thinking. The passenger side has 'normal' shock repair access. Take care man
If there is a bad heater core, you basically just scrap the whole car. Only American Buicks, Cadillacs, Pontiacs, Dodge's and Fords, get a bad heater core. You may as well just collect the $200 in scrap metal value for those cars.
I don't plan on changing shocks on one of these but I like hearing/seeing the info. Thanks!
+The Disgruntled Mechanic thanks for watching. Hopefully the vid will make life easier for someone if they have to do this PIA job! Take care
Wow Glen! That top nut looks like a PIA to get to even when you're reaching over the top of the frame. Good tip on getting access to it as you've described. Have a good one!
It is a PIA for sure!
Man you're one bad dude! Your channel is amazingly useful...I watch...I fixed...I saved...I am happy!
Passing tip jar. Haha Thanks!
Dude you are god sent, Saved me so much trouble. Thumbs Up For the Vid
Thanks Dan!
Thanks man...Very helpfull...Got my work cut out, but you made things easier... Much Appreciated...
It's not too bad of a job. Take your time Tom and good luck.
How the heck do they expect to have parts changed on these things! Man, some of those builds are a real tribute to ingenuity! How to piss off the guy that will eventually change the shocks....
You're the man Ozz!
yeah man they don't make it easy, that's for certain. Pay the big bucks to get it fixed after the warranty is over....that's how it goes these day! Take care dude - Glen
Nice informative video but as Ozzstar says showing the upper nut on either side front shock is very, very difficult. I use Bilstein shocks with one huge reason being that huge 3/4" lower wrench flat. Along with anti-seize on the stem threads makes next time replacement a bit less difficult.
Rear shocks on an E-Series are much easier especially with the spare tire removed. Upper stems easily accessible for a SawZall above the cross member.
Thanks for sharing Ozzstar!
Well said jwa718. Thanks for your comment.
I've had Fords in the family since I was born and they have always been easy to work on. I bought new shocks thinking it would be a breeze and boy was that a mistake. Did they do this on purpose?? I could NOT figure out how to get up there. Thanks for taking the time to do this video.
Of course this was done on purpose John! lol Glad the vid helped you out. Thanks for the comment
This was great info and video. Thanks! My van, an E350 Super Duty Club Wagon was exactly the same. I did some things a little differently, which might help other viewers:
1. I cut the zip tie on the boot of the old shocks (doesn't matter which zip) so that I could use a wrench on the top nut as a holding wrench while I turned the more accessible nut on the body of the shock. Cutting the zip lets the boot spin freely while you're wrenching.
2. I had trouble loosening the top nut at first because I didn't realize it was double-nutted.
3. I had the truck on jack stands under the axles, but had to raise the body to put the shocks in (I bought KYB MonoMax shocks which can't be compressed to install them). putting a TALL jack under the front frame raised the body enough to get the shock inserted in the top mount to make clearance to get the bottom on its mount.
3a. Note that I lowered the body jack before putting the top nuts on to reduce the risk of getting my hand trapped if the jack slipped.
4. On the new shocks, be sure to not tighten both zip ties until the shock is tightened down, because you want the boot to turn as you're using the body nut to tighten the top nuts--ask me how this genius figured this out :(
Sounds like you had your hands full. Thanks for watching
Thanks for making the vid! I wasn't sure if I wanted to attempt this project but your video assured me I could probably handle it. I'm on a real tight budget and you saved me from paying a shop.
thanks for posting!!! this was of great help... i snapped both stems. this made it easy :)
Glad the video helped you out Anthony
This Video Is Awesome. Thanks For Sharing It.
You got it Jim!
Thanks for the vid, looks as fun as I expected
You're welcome, it's not to bad until that lower shock mount snaps.
Now that is some tight quarters. Thanks for sharing this tip!
Thanks for your support Rusty
Thank you for this video helped tremendously.
That's great Tony!
Nice job. Thanks for the tip 👍
Glad the video helped you out.
Thanks exactly what I needed to do this tomorrow!!
Good luck Danalito
Nice Bro.....You just saved me a full days work.....THANKYOU.....wow...good deal.
You're welcome
Thank you. I was stuck, but your detail about the 15mm wrench was a God send. Huge help
Again thanks
You are welcome Shannon
Thanks for the wrench mm tips.
Thank you Man!! Good tutorial.👌
Glad the video helped you out Rosa, thanks for your comment
nice job. i think i am ready to tackle my e350 soon. the sawzall is a good tip. thanks for uploading!
If the lower shock bolt snaps check out the other video I have on repairing it. Thanks for stopping by!
@@ozzstars_cars thanks i will
I did not have the 15 ratcheting wrench but after I took the bottom loose I just turned the upper body of the shock and unscrewed the top nut while holding it with a box wrench. Put the new one on the same way.
I just replaced both front shocks and didn't have to cut anything. The trick is on the drivers side is to use a standard sized 15mm combo wrench with the open end towards the rear and the angled box end on the nut. This allows the wrench to be angled downward in the tight space but also in a position to grab it with 1 hand. Then I used a 3/4" open end wrench to turn the top of the shock. Once the nut is higher on the threaded portion of the shock I removed the 15mm box end wrench and repositioned it 180 deg with the angle upward and that allows the wrench to be grabbed by a hand while still turning the shock with the 3/4". Its a PITA slowly turning it but using a saw to cut it is also a PITA if the part you are cutting rotates as you cut it. Once the nut was off I was able to compress the shock using the coil spring and 2 long screw drivers to pry the threaded portion clear of the hole. One other trick, I compressed the new shock to the point the top was below the hole in the top frame using long tie wraps to keep it compressed. Get the shock in position on the lower bolt stud, install the nut on the stud to hold it loosely, position the top threaded portion of the shock to go into the hole then cut the tie wraps and allow the shock to go into the hole. That beat the hell out of trying to compress the shock while under the van. Before I saw this video I was thinking how the hell to get the old off and the new in, this video helped a lot and gave me clues on how to do it the way I did it
Thank you so much😊❤
Great video. Thank you.
You're welcome Trevor
I replaced both front shocks on my 2005 Ford E150 within ten minutes. The top nut was 14 mm, the top of shock was 16 mm, and the botttom nut was 18 mm. The top mounting nut was easy to get to using pass through sockets. Again, replaced both within ten minutes.
I guess your van hasn't been on the rust belt. That bottom nut snaps off and the 10 minute timer will be ringing.
@@ozzstars_cars Thankfully there is not rust or rust through on the ol van. She got 180,224 miles and still running like a champ. Just replaced ball joints, tire rod ends, drag and center link as well as steering gear box.
Awesome man... Big Help
Thank you very much for making this video. I have to do shocks on my van and i thought i needed a magician to change my front shocks hahahaha
lol
Hey man you can also use 2 19 mm open end wrenches and a spark plug socket to fit under sub frame to get the 15 mm bolt of the top of shock. Thank you for your video it helped.
Sounds like a challenge to do it that way.
Gotta do what a poor mans gotta do to make it work. Atleast you dont have to get on your back.
Anyways cool stuff thanks for the video👍
I found it easier to put a 15 mil on the top and turn the nut underneath- I did this on one side. The other side i just cut through the bushing and all without loosening any of it. This is the best bet, less than 2 min and it was off. (Except my lower mount snapped off haha.)
I didnt have to reach through the frame on either side though, there was enough clearance on the left side to slide a ratcheting wrench in and on to the nut. This van has been a hassle to work on, 4 days in rebuilding the front end and replacing all suspension. Thanks for the video :)
Thanks for taking the time to comment Bubba
Yep...I was wondering how to do that,your video helped
Awesome
Cool preciate the info.
Thanks for the great presentation, but why can't you turn the nut at the bottom, turning the shaft to tighten the top nut into place?
Thanks for the video
Thank you for video
You got it Ben!
Okay--MINOR issue, all meant in massive respect----I've done this a few times now myself. Mentioning the recip saw but not showing how you used it confuses me---why? That particular POV shoot would make this the absolute best video EVER!
Indeed thanks for sharing!
Why? Because my camera guy (me) thought he pushed the record button and didnt! I almost had to fire myself. lol Use of a receprocating saw requires pulling an electrical switch and placing the blade on the object (metal or wood) you want to cut. Its that easy. I am sure the operators manual can tell you how to use the tool. Good luck and thanks for watching
+Ozzstar Me too on not hitting the record button correctly. My question isn't as much about using the saw because I have plenty of experience with those---I was more curious to see how someone actually does this. I've tried it but without success, opting to turn the upper nut until its off or breaks. FWIW most E-Series shocks I've changed did not have the lower wrench flats and were not monotube---a HUGE PITA! Thanks again
Nice! Thx for sharing
Great info off to the shop I go
Do you know Torque specs for top nut and bottom bolt for the shock?
Wow....simply thanks man!!!!!
You're welcome Joe
The 18 on the shaft can be turned if the 15 on the top can be held. The 18 does not have clearance for a longer stroke, but an extra-long wrench can be used to apply more force.
C'mon. Easiest way is to use a reciprocating saw preferably an air saw because they're really small and just cut a shaft of the shock right where the rubber bushing is. Takes about 3 minutes the shock falls right out.
To install the shock, put the washer and bushing on the shock, push it up through the hole, push the bottom part of the shock onto the mounting stud. Put the nut on the stud and you can secure it now or after.
Pull out the rug under the brake pedal and pop out the grommet where the transmission shift cable goes through and you'll see the top of the shock. Put the bushing washer and nut on the top of the shock. Use a flex head gear wrench through the hole onto the nut. The hole in the floor will hold the gear wrench in place. Go underneath and tighten the shock from there. Done.
It helps a lot.thanks
You welcome, thanks for checking out the video.
For the drivers side a lot of these vans have a hole behind the brake pedal under the carpet to get at the drivers side upper nut
That's what i was going to say!
My gf's 2007 e350 does have a hole but it's pretty friggin' small. Too small for some ratchets to grab/click at least once. The backside got me 5 or 6 clicks of the ratcheting mechanism in the wrench so it was quicker.
Now you're talkin
Thanks! I was looking at mine going what the F&%^. Saved me some time.
Thank you!!!
Your welcome.
Getting ready to do this, so thanks for the heads up.
I wonder if a guy could put a wrench on the top to hold and turn the 19mm on the bottom.
An extra hand makes most jobs easier. 😉
And a 6 pack
Thanks!
You're welcome Geeky and thank you!
*thanks it was helpful but I don’t think I could do that myself*
just saw or grind the crap out of it works for me installing is the gravy part
Thanks
👍
Thanks bud!
You bet!
I put new shocks all around in my 91 Ford e150 econoline van, but put cheap ones in. Now years later I would like to replace the front ones with really good quality shocks. What brand do you recommend?
KYB, Bilstein, Monroe
There is an access hole from the inside firewall driver's side....
Nope. Not 2008.
Thats a real hard spot for sure. For sure they must drop the body on at the factory , ha there's no way that's going down the line for someone to install a shock. 👍
+STEVE that shock certainly is already there when the 'marriage' happens between the chassis and body. Who's got time for that nonsense on the line lol Take care man and thanks for commenting
On 2007 ford E150 cargo van how do i adjust my camber on front tires
Watch my video on ball joint replacement and you will see the camber adjustment sleeves at the 15 minute mark. czcams.com/video/j8dflcUSybk/video.htmlsi=L__5U0whAc8m94U2
Taking the shock off was time consuming but fairly easy, I wish someone would show how to install the new one. This is my project today.
So how did it go?
@@ozzstars_cars Started with the passenger side to get the wrench size confirmed and procedure down, then the drivers side. I superglued the nut to the top washer and was able to finger turn the washer enough to get the treads started. I was able to get a 3/4 wrench on the nut then I tighten by turning the shaft bolt. About six hours labor for both including set up and clean up. Thanks for your help.
@@bobgil3464 you're welcome. The van must ride like a Cadillac now. haha
@@ozzstars_cars its a Class C RV on a E450 chassie. I also put Sumo Springs on the front and really feel a better ride.
It’s easier if you just hold the top and twist the bottom use a wench an put it at an angle .
thanks
You are welcome Andre
15 mm going on. Who cares going off 😅😅(it is bigger) I cut it!
Under and reach around works on this too 😂😂😂. Good vid. All true people. What he said works. A+
How tight should the top bolt be on the bushings?
When the rubber bushing squeezes out just a far as the washer.
Can you recommend some good shocks for the front of my f 350. I have replaced everything on the front end and I still get a shimmy at around 60 mph. Can you give any advise?
Shimmy? check runout for a bent wheel. How old are the tires and have they been balanced within the last 15K miles? Rotate front to back, see if the shimmy goes away. Heavy duty shocks, Gabriels or Monroes, the expensive ones. Good luck
Heavy duty aftermarket front track bar. Its the only way to stop the death wobble you can put a whole new front end and tires in there and it wont help.
Boss has an f450 dually thats had 10 alignments and Ford cant figure it out. He wont listen
Putting a load in the bed or on the hitch will make it go away also if you got something heavy to drag around all the time. Its basically a tow truck out of the box its designed to work not play
Hey there. There's a much easier way to do the driver's side. Not sure if anybody else already posted this tip, but I'll do it just in case not.
Turns out that there is a hole in the driver's side floorboard behind the brake pedal that's meant to expose the nut on the top of the shock. Just remove the floor mat, pull out the rubber plug, and you'll be able to see the nut and put a socket on it. I know this is the case for certain years of the E350. Can't speak to other models.
You can check out this video for a better explanation:
czcams.com/video/yKZS8PTda-8/video.html
Reach up and over from the underside, way faster and easier.
What a massive pain!!!
I think there is a access port on the floor board just pull the flooring back
Some do, some don't. This particular E150 did not.
Sometimes it makes one wonder y shocks and stuff are so hard to get to .
+wtbm123 let's blame it on poor engineering! Thanks for watching
Did you do the rear replacement?
Not this time
The passenger side is a piece of cake ,it's the drivers side that a pain in the neck
I just found another video that showed a plug-in the floor on the driver side that may be of assistance.
There are E250 and E350's that have that
Look to see if there’s a hole in the driver floorboard, under the carpet between the pedals fellas.
thank for the tips got an e350 to do and not looking forward to this task.
You are welcome Paul. The video will help make the job much easier. It's really not too bad when you have solid direction. Good luck
+Ozzstar Im in the same boat. Got this job to do in the morning should be fun
It's only the drivers side thats a little bit tough. The passenger side is easy. Good luck with the fix
Its a fun one for sure, shouldn't be too tough now ;-)
Ozzstar There is an access hole directly under the brake pedal. Super simple.
Time it would've taken to loosen the driver side to get a sawzall blade under the bushing would've been too long, just save the time and cut through the bushing too, on passenger side it's easier to do though.
I agree. 💯👍
Erm, isn't there a cutout on the floor inside the cab to get at that shock?
Certain models and it's still tricky
@@ozzstars_cars it is tricky. I still sawzall them out lol
Tk sr
I'm confused. So, these vans don't use struts? They use shock absorbers? I was wondering why Rockauto has one strut for the front and a bunch of shocks for the front. I'm not worried about the back, but I thought struts were for the front????
Not on an E body
@@ozzstars_cars so I can buy the Bilstein B6 shocks I want for the front with confidence that I don’t need struts?
@@CenobiteBeldar Bilstein on a cargo van? Save your money
Couldn't you just cut through the bushing without loosening the nut? Even if you let the blade ride against the shock mount, the bolt is going to cut before you do damage to the shock mount
Why chance cutting the shock mount if you don't have to? Takes 10 seconds to loosen the nut and gain some clearance
This video was shocking.
it sure is man! You got that right! lol
Can you cut the shock off without removing the top nut partially? Also, how the hell did you get your saw there? Would a small die grinding disc be any easier? Also, I'm extremely annoyed and hate Ford even more.
I made some room to get the saw blade in by backing off the nut. Cuts like butter with a sharp metal cutting blade.
they need a Hole in the in the floor under the carpet
what a great idea! a hole under the carpet
Weren’t you the bad guy in that movie gladiator ?
It's just an act, in real life I'm super cool.
That you are ! And very helpful and informative too I might add :) , thanks so much for this video . Just got a new sub
Charlie Greene thanks, I appreciate that. -Glen
Time to pay a shop.
Sometimes it's easier to write the check.
I just spent 3 hours on front shock, I have never in my life seen something so difficult to do on a replaceable item. Every dumbass that designs these needs to be able to work on it
let's do some front shocks on a c4
+bluchopper1 i hear you. Been asked that many times, think I may have to film that one of these days. Thanks for commenting
+Ozzstar yes I loved the video u did on the back ones and the sway bar bushings really helped me out
We just did a gas tank change on my c4 wow what a job I haven't seen anyone do a video on that! Love ur channel keep up the good work
Go inside van take chicken coup off the top of shock is right there.
And make an egg sandwhich.