Yeah, nothing can be clearer in an instructional video than trying to show how to install a small black color object on another object that is also black, in front of a black background, and with minimal amount of light.
Why is everything in this video black. Black shirt, black background, black rings. You can’t distinguish a darn thing here. Very dark. At least use the aluminum rings so we can see what’s going on here.
Sako, please refer to your supplied instructions and re-film this video. Add some extra lighting while you're at it. The Optilock system is excellent when installed correctly.
This video says to install the front base one millimeter forward of the ejection port, however, the instruction leaflet with Optilock mounts clearly says to install the front base as far forward as possible on the front dovetail (and to even hammer it forward with a plastic hammer!). The leaflet then adds that if you don't it can put tension on the scope under recoil (how could that be with the recoil stop on the rear base stopping forward movement?). Which is correct ???
I called Sako gunsmith and he said that in some batches of the instruction leaflets there is this mistake. The way to install the front base on this video is correct the one!
@@TheCoutzi This is not correct. The front mount must be slid forward until it is tight. Otherwise there is too much side to side movement. If you don't believe me just try it ... set the mount flush to the rear as shown and wiggle it back and forth. Loose right? Moving it forward eliminates that play. If you keep it there the base screw will tighten against the right side of the dovetail, pulling the mount against it (to the right). Meaning that is where the scope will ultimately point. I tried and tried to follow this and others that say the same and my shooting so far left I didn't have windage enough to zero it. (Zeiss 1" HD-5) Shove it forward ... you'll thank me.
@@TheCoutzi ok … good luck. I’m just telling you how I got my Sako 85 Hunter and my Sako M995 300 Win Mag accurately mounted and zeroed and shooting the latter w 1st round hits at 750 yds. Tried and tried but this is what worked. You do what works for you.
@@MrMoritzbi I have had my Sako 85 many years and it is accurate. The rear mount already has a recoil lug and that ensures that the scope won't move forward. Moving the front mount forward on the dovetail affects scope windage. But like I said, Sako confirmed that there is an incorrect instruction on some of the leaflets and the way showed in this video is the correct one.
I have asked Sako directly for this matter, here is the answer „Unfortunately the mounting instructions with the base has an error. They printed and released millions before the error was found. The error is corrected in the next version of the manual. Correct way is presented in the video. I apologize the confusing instructions.“
Hi, We would not recommend the use of loctite to seal the mounting screws. We have not seen the need to do so. A quick check from time to time, before going out, is enough to verify that screws are in place. So it is up to your preference.
Yes. Despite what SAKO says, it's best to use a bit of loctite on on the mounting screws especially if you're mounting a large heavy scope on a rifle chambered for a heavy recoil round. I have a SAKO 75 Hunter in 300 Win Mag. with a 31 oz. Meopta Optika6 4.5-27X 50MM scope mounted on it. I shoot 210 gr. Nosler Accubond bullets out of the rifle and this is my long-range elk rifle, scope and ammo combo. Despite torqueing the ring screws to the maximum setting established by SAKO I have experienced some of the screws becoming loose after firing several rounds of that ammo. Loctite (blue) 242 works the best. It completely eliminated the loose screw problem, and Locktite 242 can be removed with a bit of acetone and tools without having to apply any heat.
video is way shot with insufficient light to see any real details of the whole assembly process...barely OK...I've seen much better though...lighting for closeup work is essential on this type of video...
Absolutely hate this mounting system. The dovetails allow for too much deviance between the two mounts. They need lapped, I torqued to specs and it would hold my scope during recoil. Tightened them till it held and I over torqued em and ruined scope. Will never buy another Sako. Build a picitinny rail into the action like some of the cheaper guns have.
Have you guys heard of light? I tried watching it with my eyes closed and it was pretty much the same.
Yeah, nothing can be clearer in an instructional video than trying to show how to install a small black color object on another object that is also black, in front of a black background, and with minimal amount of light.
Why is everything in this video black. Black shirt, black background, black rings. You can’t distinguish a darn thing here. Very dark.
At least use the aluminum rings so we can see what’s going on here.
Sako, please refer to your supplied instructions and re-film this video. Add some extra lighting while you're at it. The Optilock system is excellent when installed correctly.
This video says to install the front base one millimeter forward of the ejection port, however, the instruction leaflet with Optilock mounts clearly says to install the front base as far forward as possible on the front dovetail (and to even hammer it forward with a plastic hammer!). The leaflet then adds that if you don't it can put tension on the scope under recoil (how could that be with the recoil stop on the rear base stopping forward movement?). Which is correct ???
I called Sako gunsmith and he said that in some batches of the instruction leaflets there is this mistake. The way to install the front base on this video is correct the one!
@@TheCoutzi This is not correct. The front mount must be slid forward until it is tight. Otherwise there is too much side to side movement. If you don't believe me just try it ... set the mount flush to the rear as shown and wiggle it back and forth. Loose right? Moving it forward eliminates that play. If you keep it there the base screw will tighten against the right side of the dovetail, pulling the mount against it (to the right). Meaning that is where the scope will ultimately point.
I tried and tried to follow this and others that say the same and my shooting so far left I didn't have windage enough to zero it. (Zeiss 1" HD-5) Shove it forward ... you'll thank me.
@@MrMoritzbi Actually you are wrong.
@@TheCoutzi ok … good luck. I’m just telling you how I got my Sako 85 Hunter and my Sako M995 300 Win Mag accurately mounted and zeroed and shooting the latter w 1st round hits at 750 yds. Tried and tried but this is what worked. You do what works for you.
@@MrMoritzbi I have had my Sako 85 many years and it is accurate. The rear mount already has a recoil lug and that ensures that the scope won't move forward. Moving the front mount forward on the dovetail affects scope windage. But like I said, Sako confirmed that there is an incorrect instruction on some of the leaflets and the way showed in this video is the correct one.
Can someone please turn on the lights
I have asked Sako directly for this matter, here is the answer „Unfortunately the mounting instructions with the base has an error. They printed and released millions before the error was found. The error is corrected in the next version of the manual. Correct way is presented in the video. I apologize the confusing instructions.“
Can we use loctite on the ring mounting screw?
Hi,
We would not recommend the use of loctite to seal the mounting screws. We have not seen the need to do so. A quick check from time to time, before going out, is enough to verify that screws are in place. So it is up to your preference.
Use the blue loctite. I forget the number, but definitely not the red permanent one.
Yes. Despite what SAKO says, it's best to use a bit of loctite on on the mounting screws especially if you're mounting a large heavy scope on a rifle chambered for a heavy recoil round. I have a SAKO 75 Hunter in 300 Win Mag. with a 31 oz. Meopta Optika6 4.5-27X 50MM scope mounted on it. I shoot 210 gr. Nosler Accubond bullets out of the rifle and this is my long-range elk rifle, scope and ammo combo. Despite torqueing the ring screws to the maximum setting established by SAKO I have experienced some of the screws becoming loose after firing several rounds of that ammo. Loctite (blue) 242 works the best. It completely eliminated the loose screw problem, and Locktite 242 can be removed with a bit of acetone and tools without having to apply any heat.
This blew!
video is way shot with insufficient light to see any real details of the whole assembly process...barely OK...I've seen much better though...lighting for closeup work is essential on this type of video...
Hi,
Thank you for your feedback. We will try to do better next time. ;)
That's not how to install the front mount.
Correct ... the front mount must be slid forward as far as possible, otherwise there is too much lateral play in the front mount.
@@MrMoritzbi that was always my understanding.
Absolutely hate this mounting system. The dovetails allow for too much deviance between the two mounts. They need lapped, I torqued to specs and it would hold my scope during recoil. Tightened them till it held and I over torqued em and ruined scope. Will never buy another Sako. Build a picitinny rail into the action like some of the cheaper guns have.