Its the start of corn harvest on my family's farm. We fire up the Gleaner K, put the corn head on and get out in the field. Later in the day, we run into an unexpected problem...
i spent many hours in a 3 row cob harvester for a seed production harvester. Watching this brings back many memories and some of the tricks I used when things weren't going as well as it could!!
You are the only CZcams that I've seen that actually stops the machine and gets out to check on the machine set up, then reads the owners maintenance book to compare the schedule and how to adjust the machine to get the best out of it. Your machine might not be the latest super dooper 25 row picker but at least most of the crop ain't going out the backdoor. you do seem to get the carts on the wrong side and have to spend time turning to unload. Nice vids from Kent, England, the UK
LOL:) Neighbor of my BIL bought a new CIH rotary and the salesman told him it was "field ready" when they delivered it... SO he went straight into the bean field and started cutting. Well, he didn't figure it out til later, BUT evidently "field ready" doesn't include actually closing and latching the top cover on the elevator where it's tossing the beans over onto the yield monitor plate before they drop into the bubble-up auger and get sent into the grain tank... Of course EVERYBODY knew it after the next rain, because he had the prettiest green strips of soybean sprouts painted like foot-wide lines all the way across the field, tracing every turn, etc. They were so thick, like a carpet, so he probably lost 5-10 bushels to the acre... it was crazy! He was glad when the freeze killed them and they turned brown and weren't so noticeable. Course, if he'd been climbing down and checking how his machine was running, particularly in the first five minutes after starting, all those beans would have ended up on the truck. BUT no, too nice a cab with that pressurized air filtration system and Bose stereo sound, and that comfy recliner driver's seat... plus probably GPS to drive it so basically it's get in, turn it on, and let it go, and just ride along. Difference between an OPERATOR and a steering wheel holder... I don't need $25,000 worth of electronics to steer for me and set the machine... NH just came out with a new combine that integrates the yield sensor, ground speed sensor, shaft sensors, grain loss sensors on the chaffer and sieve, tailings sensor, etc and then sends all that data to a computer, the computer calculates how loaded up the machine is (if it's running at full capacity) and the grain loss out the back and the yield, and somehow measures how clean or dirty the grain is, moisture, etc. and then integrates all that data and then uses stepper motors to automatically control the ground speed of the combine, header height, auto steer, as well as the rotor speeds, concave clearances, fan speed, and chaffer/sieve adjustments, so that it can automatically change the settings across the field as conditions change... if you get onto a high knob and the yield falls off, and there's little trash, the computer will automatically speed up the ground drive, lower the header for shorter stalks, increase the air for more weed seed and duff to be blown out from grass or weeds, and close down the chaffer and sieve to help clean the grain better. When you go downhill into good ground that got plenty runoff and it's heavy corn, the combine slows down ground speed to prevent slugging or lugging the machine, opens the concave and speeds up the rotor a bit to increase capacity, opens up the chaffer and sieve to let more grain through faster, etc. All without you touching a button. Course it probably adds $30,000 to the price of the machine... and it doesn't do ONE THING that a GOOD OPERATOR can't do... BUT it does allow you to hire a numb-nut and turn them loose and do a decent job...
That would have been awesome to run these when the paint was still fresh and the interior like new. You’re right, they are still a good machine today! Thanks for watching!
Hi Johnny I hope things are well with you my friend. Thank you for your help by sharing your knowledge with us. I hope you had a great Thanksgiving. 🍗🙂☕🙂
Luckily, never had any fires, have fought several combine, cotton picker and tractor fires as well as field fires in my 38 years as a Firefighter, but also spent may hours riding a K Gleaner in the 80's on my Grandpa's farm picking beans and corn, brings back a lot of good memories of time spent with him, thanks! And yep, in Alabama we pick everything! LOL!
Thank you for your service Tim! That sounds like a heck of a career. And that must have been cool riding along with your Grandpa! That’s why I’m doing it. I love farming, new and old, and the stories that go with it. I love that you guys pick everything down south. I hadn’t heard that yet, haha.
This is a good video. Good descriptions of the combine's setup, without excessive talking. It was great actually hearing and seeing the combine run from the cab, even learning about acceptable grain loss. Great job, and keep up the good work!
Field fires that get out of control can give you a gimpse of what hell would be like. Nice work you guys did preventing it from building up and spreading, luck was on your side that day.
Lol, yeah it’s pretty small. That’s part of the reason I like it so much. The crazy thing is Massey made one even smaller. The model 35 if I remember right. My dad’s first self propelled combine was one. It came with an 8 foot grain head. My K came with a 10 or 13 foot head and a 4 row 20”, 3 row 30” and 35”, and 2 row 40” back in the day. I’m pretty sure they offered other sizes later on, but I’m just going off of sales literature that I picked up at a tractor show. I always thought it’d be neat to get a 4 row 20”, but have never seen a recent picture of one.
that combine is huge compared to the corn picker we had, LOL it was a one row Wood Bro's, my father also used a pull type combine with it's own engine, had a maybe 4 foot head grain head, the engine was the same as a model ''A'' Ford, I believe,
Yeah it is. Looks like you’ve been running one too. I’m going to have to check out your videos on it. My dad and I love watching farmers on here. Hopefully you can get those last two loads in soon.
Wow! That sounds like a productive day. I bet that was a great setup. My dad and I just saw a K2 in person today. We were really surprised by the difference in size between the K and K2. Thanks for watching!
New sub here really enjoyed watching your Gleaner k shelling that corn. My first cousin is running a cleaner K here on our very small family farm he's had to do a lot of work on his to get it back in working condition.
Thanks! My dad and I like watching your videos. And yeah, it takes a lot of work getting them back out into the fields, but once their back in working condition, they’re pretty good machines. I hope his treats him well.
One time I was working doing something with the old '68 Ford 5200 row crop diesel and I had pulled up to the leg tank and dieseled her up. I was just about finished just standing there and suddenly smoke started POURING out from under the hood. Next thing I know the slight oil leak from the valve cover gasket down the engine block caught on fire. I shut the diesel off right quick and put the hose up and turned the leg tank valve off, and looked around for the hose. Didn't see the hose handy but there was a shovel there, so I grabbed it and just started digging and throwing dirt on the side of the block. Snuffed the fire out pretty quick. Got to looking and somehow or other something shorted and it burned up the stupid new generator, which was only a year or two old. Fried the wiring harness across the front of the engine back to the regulator box behind the battery. Well, I pulled the wiring harness off and cut it apart at the kitchen table, cut out the burned spots and soldered in new wire, taped up any burned insulation spots on the other wires, made sure everything was good, and then re-wrapped it with electrical tape, so it was good as new. What ticked me off was, I had JUST bought a new tachometer for that tractor, which was about $350, so I could get the speed right to spray more accurately. AND of course the tachometer, instead of having a gear that ran off the cam where the distributor was on the gas versions of those tractors, no, this one had a little worm gear and spur gear running on the back of the generator shaft, screwed to the back of it. The generator wasn't but a couple years old. I always hated those old generator systems because they didn't put out that much power, they were prone to burning up and wearing out commutators, and if it wasn't the generator itself, it was the stupid regulator which was a separate box. SO I decided I wasn't replacing all that crap. BUT I still needed to run my generator to work the tachometer. SO what I decided to do was install a Chevy alternator, like I'd done on other tractors before. First I gutted the burned-up generator, took it apart, ground through all the field wiring, and ripped it all out since it was all fried and burned. Then I repacked the bearings and bushings, removed the brushes, and took the fan off the front pulley, making it a "dummy" that was just there to spin the tachometer cable. Then I got a Chevy alternator and mounted it just below the generator. The regular 70's Chevy alternators have a two-wire flat plug on the side and a single large power output lug on the back. They're super-simple to wire up... there's a brown wire and a red wire on the 2-prong plug which connects to the internal regulator. The brown wire is an "exciter" wire from the key switch, "hot in run" and the red wire is the "field" wire which energizes the regulator and the rotor when the thing starts up. The brown wire kinda senses the voltage in the system, and the regulator controls the magnetic field of the rotor to vary the output of the alternator when its running. The lug on the back is the output of the alternator, which runs through a heavy-duty wire back to the battery cable terminal on the starter. All you have to do is run a wire to the run switch (key switch) which feeds the alternator through the 2 prong regulator plug, then connect a short wire from the field terminal looped back to the red wire on the 2-prong plug for the field power supply, and then run a heavy-duty wire (that can handle at least 70 amps or so) around from the alternator output lug to the battery cable lug nut on the alternator with a big ring terminal. For safety I installed two fuses of 80 amps capacity-- when the tractor is running, the alternator is producing power and sending it through the HD wire to the starter battery cable, and if it shorts out between the alternator and starter it will full-field the alternator (maximum output) and really heat that wire red hot and could start a fire-- so I put one fuse at the end right by the ring terminal on the alternator. When the tractor is off, since that HD wire is attached to the battery cable at the starter lug terminal, if it were to short out, it could backfeed 100% battery power through the wire and heat it red hot and start a fire, so I installed a second 80 amp fuse between the wire and the starter cable end lug ring terminal, so if it were to short in EITHER condition running or parked, it will blow the fuse on either end and prevent a fire. I also installed an ammeter in the circuit so I could check the output easily and make sure the alternator was putting out properly. I measured around the pulleys to see what size belt I needed, which wasn't a problem, BUT I did have one small problem-- the belt was going to rub on the side frame rail of the tractor beside the engine... well, actually part of the front bolster but still same difference. I got to looking around and I had a flat back idler pulley off an 83 Mercury we'd bought for parts on another project, and there was a bolt hole in the casting nearby, so I cut a piece of angle iron, torched a hole for a bolt, and then figured out where the pulley needed to be mounted, and then welded the pulley bracket to the angle iron, and bolted it in place... went and bought a belt and presto! Perfecto! The thing worked like a champ... belt came up from the crank pulley over the water pump to the faux generator, down to the alternator, around its pulley over the bolster edge around the idler pulley, and then back down around the crank pulley again. Worked like a champ. We ran it that way for another 5-so years til we traded the tractor off on a 96 Ford 5610S. The dealer dolled the tractor up and did some work to it, new tires and PTO brake and some other minor things. I figured he'd get rid of my electrical system and replace the generator and regulator, but when they repainted it and put it on the lot, NOPE it was just the way I had engineered it. Tach worked, alternator worked, idler pulley worked.
Ya just can’t kill a Uni! Good to hear it was still running when you traded it off. Hopefully, it makes the next user a good machine too. Thanks for watching!
I operate a 715 later serail number. Some years ago i was opening a rye field when a terrible bang was heard on the mechine. The mechine trembled. As i stopped to look flames were rising on both sides of the engine. At that time no cell phone available. I ran afoot about 1/4 mile to phone and fire department. Caused no field fire but the engine blew a rod and cap through the block.
TSC... "Never what you need out here" LOL:) I used to love TSC, bought a LOT of stuff from them over the years when we were row cropping, chains, hoses, sprayer parts, water well stuff, pins, hydraulic stuff, tires, some batteries (usually cheaper at Auto Zone-- used to get those $30 AZ batteries and put them in everything... cheaper than them big dozer batteries that used to be $120 on the Ford 6600 tractors back in the 90's, started just as well unless it was REAL cold). Now TSC is a bad joke. I hate even going into a TSC anymore... most of it is a dog/pony store, and the rest is garden junk and decor stuff... hardly any real "supplies" anymore, parts and stuff. I got sick and tired of having say a 3/4 female elbow bust on the sprayer and going over there to get one, and having to get 2-3 different fittings to screw together to replace it because they didn't have the right size, didn't have the right thread, didn't have the right fitting, so it was just "grab stuff and figure out how to make it connect up to what you had and fit in the space... and of course now they won't hire anybody but kids whole work for nothing, and they don't work hardly, and their managers are pretty much worthless too anymore... we had a good one and she quit the company for a better paying job, and we never had anything but idiots after that. Rural King beats TSC all to pieces... I wish our TSC would be replaced by a Rural King, but unfortuantely we don't have them in south central Texas yet...
Great video. I have a k and used 238 this year, I got a black 330 and everything seems to be optioned like yours but the drive chain seems to be off about 1.5 inches. I see some needing jackshaft to align them, but yours is directly connected. Did you need to change something on yours for alignment? May be able to flip the pulley over to keep the belt aligned and slide the shaft outward
Thank you! Yeah I ran into the same problem. As long as your combine has a new enough serial number, you’ll just need a new double sprocket for drive sprocket to run both your grain and your new corn head. When I get a chance today, I’ll look up the part number for you to give to your local Agco dealer. It has that extra inch and a half offset built into it and bolts right onto the end of the shaft sticking out of the throat.
@@lylebaker7893 ok, I still had the box mine came in. The AGCO part number is 70575291. It is a double sprocket with 13T and 25T. Note, this should be all you need as long as your combine serial number is newer than 8201. Otherwise, it looks like you might need to chase down the newer countershaft which is part number 1162502-7 in the corn head book. Note the double sprocket is part number 0575291-0 in the parts book printed in 1981. So, AGCO must do a little adjusting on the part numbers for house keeping.
Perfect! Thanks for detailed info. Mine is non variable header speed and looks like yours. It is from 1975, S/N above 20,000. Mine is 13 tooth, sounds like it should work.
How efficient is the gas engine? We’ve never had a gas combine before. We’ve had all IH over the years, 8 row machines. 3 915’s, then 3 1480’s, 3 1680’s, 2188’s, 2388’s, then went to 2 8120’s.
Wow! That’s a lot of combines! I bet it was neat to see the change over time. I don’t have any other combine experience to compare it to. But, I did end up measuring the fuel consumption later on, and it looked like it was burning about 5 gal of gas per acre. Now, with my 4 row planter, basically I had to run two passes per planter pass. So, if I chase down a six row, or drop one of my planter units, I’ll be able to run the same amount of passes on the combine per planter pass. Folks on here are telling me, I’ll be able to save 33% of that fuel. Which will be about 1.5 gallon or about $5.10 an acre as of yesterday.
Lol, you aren’t wrong. I had no idea it was in the way til I was editing the video. I am having fun though. I love farming, even with the breakdowns and challenges that come with it. Thanks for watching!
Hi Billy! In ‘22 I farmed 15 acres. 12 corn and 3 beans. In ‘23 I’ll be at 25. 10 corn, 12 beans, and 3 wheat. Those combines sound like some interesting models. I bet it was a leap in comfort from the A2 to the M3. Do you still get out there with any of those?
I just sub to your channel I may have missed it but how much land do you Fram love the old stuff.that you fram with keep up the good work and the videos
Thanks for subscribing. Currently, I am at 15 tillable acres and growing. I love the old equipment too. My dad and I love watching others do the same. We’re the kind of folks that’ll slow down and watch if we see it at work in the fields. Thanks for the encouragement! I hope to keep growing and running our old equipment for many years to come.
I’ll have to look into it over the next year. Currently, the fuel drains back into the tank over night, so I can either crank til it fills the carb and starts, or give her a quick blast of the nose candy. Is there a check valve or anything they make to keep fuel in the carb?
@@johndowe7003 I’ll have to check that out. I’ve never gotten into the carb except for replacing the tiny fuel filter in it. Guess I’ll have to do some reading.
@@richfarmer6143 what engine is in it? is it a ford 300? most carbs have a vent hole on em, your needle and seat are probably trashed and fuel just leaks out of the fuel bowl back into the tank, if you got a carter type 1 barrel you can rig up a little copper line to your vent then just add gasoline everytime ya wanna run it. i hate having to use up expensive ass carb/starter fluid. back then the cans were cheap but now theyre like 8 dollars each can
@@johndowe7003 it has the Chevy 250 inline 6. Replacing the needle and seat make a lot of sense. When I get a chance, I’ll tear into it, as it probably could use a rebuild anyway. When I get around to it, I’ll have to do a video on it. The copper line sounds like a pretty good idea. That’d def save some $ over time. Is your 300 in a pickup? Or is it in a piece of equipment?
Dang! That’s a lot of fires. I bet those farmers are having a tough time, but I bet they’ll get through it. One of my friends said sometimes harvest feels like a war of attrition. Ya just gotta keep going! Thanks for watching.
Specialty 34A007. I’m not a seed salesman or anything, but I thought it did pretty decent with our month and a half of drought at the beginning of the season.
@@chrisjohnson5762 yessir. I buy it from my local elevator, but I think they cover Indiana, Ohio and Michigan if I remember right. Here’s their website below. www.specialtyhybrids.com/en-us.html
👀 I'd love to trap em good money in selling the hides, about 40$ each . I've seen this one guy trap 200 of em in less than a week at this ranch I worked at. Was crazy since he got payed double. First for the pest control and second for the furs.
That and deer damage. We had a heard of about 15 living back there this year. You could go back anytime of day and find some in that corn. Pretty frustrating.
@@richfarmer6143 yeah no idea how that works furs get graded and I know furs from a certain state aren't as valuable as from other states I don't know exactly how it all works but yeah super subjective and interesting
Well, I can assure you we were wanting to get everything done as soon as possible, however we cannot control the uncontrollable. The breakdown happened on a Saturday afternoon, and no AGCO dealer that we know of was open on a Sunday. So, we got it together when we could. Unfortunately, this is only my part time job, so I can only do what I can do outside of my time at my full time job. I don’t think I’m alone here, as there are a lot us small farmers that have a town job to supplement our farm incomes. And that town job is what allows us to keep farming, so we have to put that before our farming.
Sir not to be bossy but if u dont wanna loose your corn head legs. U need to take them off. First of all they are hard to come by these days. And thd corn stalks will pull the cotterpin right out. So i suggest pulling the pin pulling legs put pin in the legs and throwem in the barn till u go unhook the corn head!
i spent many hours in a 3 row cob harvester for a seed production harvester. Watching this brings back many memories and some of the tricks I used when things weren't going as well as it could!!
I bet that was an interesting occupation!
You are the only CZcams that I've seen that actually stops the machine and gets out to check on the machine set up, then reads the owners maintenance book to compare the schedule and how to adjust the machine to get the best out of it. Your machine might not be the latest super dooper 25 row picker but at least most of the crop ain't going out the backdoor. you do seem to get the carts on the wrong side and have to spend time turning to unload. Nice vids from Kent, England, the UK
Thanks John! I appreciate it.
DsssY
LOL:) Neighbor of my BIL bought a new CIH rotary and the salesman told him it was "field ready" when they delivered it... SO he went straight into the bean field and started cutting. Well, he didn't figure it out til later, BUT evidently "field ready" doesn't include actually closing and latching the top cover on the elevator where it's tossing the beans over onto the yield monitor plate before they drop into the bubble-up auger and get sent into the grain tank... Of course EVERYBODY knew it after the next rain, because he had the prettiest green strips of soybean sprouts painted like foot-wide lines all the way across the field, tracing every turn, etc. They were so thick, like a carpet, so he probably lost 5-10 bushels to the acre... it was crazy! He was glad when the freeze killed them and they turned brown and weren't so noticeable.
Course, if he'd been climbing down and checking how his machine was running, particularly in the first five minutes after starting, all those beans would have ended up on the truck. BUT no, too nice a cab with that pressurized air filtration system and Bose stereo sound, and that comfy recliner driver's seat... plus probably GPS to drive it so basically it's get in, turn it on, and let it go, and just ride along. Difference between an OPERATOR and a steering wheel holder...
I don't need $25,000 worth of electronics to steer for me and set the machine... NH just came out with a new combine that integrates the yield sensor, ground speed sensor, shaft sensors, grain loss sensors on the chaffer and sieve, tailings sensor, etc and then sends all that data to a computer, the computer calculates how loaded up the machine is (if it's running at full capacity) and the grain loss out the back and the yield, and somehow measures how clean or dirty the grain is, moisture, etc. and then integrates all that data and then uses stepper motors to automatically control the ground speed of the combine, header height, auto steer, as well as the rotor speeds, concave clearances, fan speed, and chaffer/sieve adjustments, so that it can automatically change the settings across the field as conditions change... if you get onto a high knob and the yield falls off, and there's little trash, the computer will automatically speed up the ground drive, lower the header for shorter stalks, increase the air for more weed seed and duff to be blown out from grass or weeds, and close down the chaffer and sieve to help clean the grain better. When you go downhill into good ground that got plenty runoff and it's heavy corn, the combine slows down ground speed to prevent slugging or lugging the machine, opens the concave and speeds up the rotor a bit to increase capacity, opens up the chaffer and sieve to let more grain through faster, etc. All without you touching a button. Course it probably adds $30,000 to the price of the machine... and it doesn't do ONE THING that a GOOD OPERATOR can't do... BUT it does allow you to hire a numb-nut and turn them loose and do a decent job...
What a blast from the past. I ran a K for a farmer I worked for in 1978. Good combine then and still a good combine for a smaller operator.
That would have been awesome to run these when the paint was still fresh and the interior like new. You’re right, they are still a good machine today! Thanks for watching!
Hi Johnny I hope things are well with you my friend. Thank you for your help by sharing your knowledge with us. I hope you had a great Thanksgiving. 🍗🙂☕🙂
I like your references to and giving thanks to God.
Thanks! If it weren’t for Him, I wouldn’t have the opportunity, the ability or the capability to do what I do.
I just wanted to say thank you for keeping that old iron going.
Luckily, never had any fires, have fought several combine, cotton picker and tractor fires as well as field fires in my 38 years as a Firefighter, but also spent may hours riding a K Gleaner in the 80's on my Grandpa's farm picking beans and corn, brings back a lot of good memories of time spent with him, thanks! And yep, in Alabama we pick everything! LOL!
Thank you for your service Tim! That sounds like a heck of a career. And that must have been cool riding along with your Grandpa! That’s why I’m doing it. I love farming, new and old, and the stories that go with it. I love that you guys pick everything down south. I hadn’t heard that yet, haha.
This is a good video. Good descriptions of the combine's setup, without excessive talking. It was great actually hearing and seeing the combine run from the cab, even learning about acceptable grain loss. Great job, and keep up the good work!
Field fires that get out of control can give you a gimpse of what hell would be like. Nice work you guys did preventing it from building up and spreading, luck was on your side that day.
That is no kidding! All I could think was, “God help us!”
Love seeing the old iron working
Thanks for watching!
Never saw a combine so tiny. Super cool that it still does a great job.
Lol, yeah it’s pretty small. That’s part of the reason I like it so much. The crazy thing is Massey made one even smaller. The model 35 if I remember right. My dad’s first self propelled combine was one. It came with an 8 foot grain head. My K came with a 10 or 13 foot head and a 4 row 20”, 3 row 30” and 35”, and 2 row 40” back in the day. I’m pretty sure they offered other sizes later on, but I’m just going off of sales literature that I picked up at a tractor show. I always thought it’d be neat to get a 4 row 20”, but have never seen a recent picture of one.
that combine is huge compared to the corn picker we had, LOL it was a one row Wood Bro's, my father also used a pull type combine with it's own engine, had a maybe 4 foot head grain head, the engine was the same as a model ''A'' Ford, I believe,
The K is a nice machine. If it didn't snow I would have finnished combining my last two wagons of corn.
Yeah it is. Looks like you’ve been running one too. I’m going to have to check out your videos on it. My dad and I love watching farmers on here. Hopefully you can get those last two loads in soon.
I ran l k2 with a black 330 about 200 ackers a year usually did about 3000 bushel per day. Or 20 to 25 ackers a day.
Wow! That sounds like a productive day. I bet that was a great setup. My dad and I just saw a K2 in person today. We were really surprised by the difference in size between the K and K2. Thanks for watching!
New sub here really enjoyed watching your Gleaner k shelling that corn. My first cousin is running a cleaner K here on our very small family farm he's had to do a lot of work on his to get it back in working condition.
Thanks! My dad and I like watching your videos. And yeah, it takes a lot of work getting them back out into the fields, but once their back in working condition, they’re pretty good machines. I hope his treats him well.
Super akce aj mašina jen tak dál chlapče zlatá 🐘🐑💸🔥🌊😂🔨🐓🐉😛😝😀🐲😋💰🦁😅🐺😆♥️♥️♥️👀👀👀🚜🚜🚜🌲🌲🌲🐻🐻🐻💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪
Thanks for watching!
VERY Nice Gleaner, yall have taken very good care of it. We have two on our Farm, a K and a M2. Both machines will "starve bird to death"
Thank you! Its fun to run. Haha! That sounds like a good pair of machines. Thanks for watching!
Great video. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
I like your guys older equipment
Thank you! We like running it. It’s neat to see everyone out running their vintage equipment in the fall.
One time I was working doing something with the old '68 Ford 5200 row crop diesel and I had pulled up to the leg tank and dieseled her up. I was just about finished just standing there and suddenly smoke started POURING out from under the hood. Next thing I know the slight oil leak from the valve cover gasket down the engine block caught on fire. I shut the diesel off right quick and put the hose up and turned the leg tank valve off, and looked around for the hose. Didn't see the hose handy but there was a shovel there, so I grabbed it and just started digging and throwing dirt on the side of the block. Snuffed the fire out pretty quick. Got to looking and somehow or other something shorted and it burned up the stupid new generator, which was only a year or two old. Fried the wiring harness across the front of the engine back to the regulator box behind the battery. Well, I pulled the wiring harness off and cut it apart at the kitchen table, cut out the burned spots and soldered in new wire, taped up any burned insulation spots on the other wires, made sure everything was good, and then re-wrapped it with electrical tape, so it was good as new. What ticked me off was, I had JUST bought a new tachometer for that tractor, which was about $350, so I could get the speed right to spray more accurately. AND of course the tachometer, instead of having a gear that ran off the cam where the distributor was on the gas versions of those tractors, no, this one had a little worm gear and spur gear running on the back of the generator shaft, screwed to the back of it. The generator wasn't but a couple years old. I always hated those old generator systems because they didn't put out that much power, they were prone to burning up and wearing out commutators, and if it wasn't the generator itself, it was the stupid regulator which was a separate box. SO I decided I wasn't replacing all that crap. BUT I still needed to run my generator to work the tachometer. SO what I decided to do was install a Chevy alternator, like I'd done on other tractors before. First I gutted the burned-up generator, took it apart, ground through all the field wiring, and ripped it all out since it was all fried and burned. Then I repacked the bearings and bushings, removed the brushes, and took the fan off the front pulley, making it a "dummy" that was just there to spin the tachometer cable. Then I got a Chevy alternator and mounted it just below the generator. The regular 70's Chevy alternators have a two-wire flat plug on the side and a single large power output lug on the back. They're super-simple to wire up... there's a brown wire and a red wire on the 2-prong plug which connects to the internal regulator. The brown wire is an "exciter" wire from the key switch, "hot in run" and the red wire is the "field" wire which energizes the regulator and the rotor when the thing starts up. The brown wire kinda senses the voltage in the system, and the regulator controls the magnetic field of the rotor to vary the output of the alternator when its running. The lug on the back is the output of the alternator, which runs through a heavy-duty wire back to the battery cable terminal on the starter. All you have to do is run a wire to the run switch (key switch) which feeds the alternator through the 2 prong regulator plug, then connect a short wire from the field terminal looped back to the red wire on the 2-prong plug for the field power supply, and then run a heavy-duty wire (that can handle at least 70 amps or so) around from the alternator output lug to the battery cable lug nut on the alternator with a big ring terminal. For safety I installed two fuses of 80 amps capacity-- when the tractor is running, the alternator is producing power and sending it through the HD wire to the starter battery cable, and if it shorts out between the alternator and starter it will full-field the alternator (maximum output) and really heat that wire red hot and could start a fire-- so I put one fuse at the end right by the ring terminal on the alternator. When the tractor is off, since that HD wire is attached to the battery cable at the starter lug terminal, if it were to short out, it could backfeed 100% battery power through the wire and heat it red hot and start a fire, so I installed a second 80 amp fuse between the wire and the starter cable end lug ring terminal, so if it were to short in EITHER condition running or parked, it will blow the fuse on either end and prevent a fire. I also installed an ammeter in the circuit so I could check the output easily and make sure the alternator was putting out properly.
I measured around the pulleys to see what size belt I needed, which wasn't a problem, BUT I did have one small problem-- the belt was going to rub on the side frame rail of the tractor beside the engine... well, actually part of the front bolster but still same difference. I got to looking around and I had a flat back idler pulley off an 83 Mercury we'd bought for parts on another project, and there was a bolt hole in the casting nearby, so I cut a piece of angle iron, torched a hole for a bolt, and then figured out where the pulley needed to be mounted, and then welded the pulley bracket to the angle iron, and bolted it in place... went and bought a belt and presto! Perfecto! The thing worked like a champ... belt came up from the crank pulley over the water pump to the faux generator, down to the alternator, around its pulley over the bolster edge around the idler pulley, and then back down around the crank pulley again. Worked like a champ. We ran it that way for another 5-so years til we traded the tractor off on a 96 Ford 5610S. The dealer dolled the tractor up and did some work to it, new tires and PTO brake and some other minor things. I figured he'd get rid of my electrical system and replace the generator and regulator, but when they repainted it and put it on the lot, NOPE it was just the way I had engineered it. Tach worked, alternator worked, idler pulley worked.
I had a new idea 701 combine that burnt 2 times and a couple more small fires. We traded it off , it was still able to combine and running fine.
Ya just can’t kill a Uni! Good to hear it was still running when you traded it off. Hopefully, it makes the next user a good machine too. Thanks for watching!
No i don't have them.I rent my land out,but ,I'm wanting to do some farming again. Good luck my friend.
Thanks Billy. I understand that.
I operate a 715 later serail number. Some years ago i was opening a rye field when a terrible bang was heard on the mechine. The mechine trembled. As i stopped to look flames were rising on both sides of the engine. At that time no cell phone available. I ran afoot about 1/4 mile to phone and fire department. Caused no field fire but the engine blew a rod and cap through the block.
TSC... "Never what you need out here" LOL:) I used to love TSC, bought a LOT of stuff from them over the years when we were row cropping, chains, hoses, sprayer parts, water well stuff, pins, hydraulic stuff, tires, some batteries (usually cheaper at Auto Zone-- used to get those $30 AZ batteries and put them in everything... cheaper than them big dozer batteries that used to be $120 on the Ford 6600 tractors back in the 90's, started just as well unless it was REAL cold). Now TSC is a bad joke. I hate even going into a TSC anymore... most of it is a dog/pony store, and the rest is garden junk and decor stuff... hardly any real "supplies" anymore, parts and stuff. I got sick and tired of having say a 3/4 female elbow bust on the sprayer and going over there to get one, and having to get 2-3 different fittings to screw together to replace it because they didn't have the right size, didn't have the right thread, didn't have the right fitting, so it was just "grab stuff and figure out how to make it connect up to what you had and fit in the space... and of course now they won't hire anybody but kids whole work for nothing, and they don't work hardly, and their managers are pretty much worthless too anymore... we had a good one and she quit the company for a better paying job, and we never had anything but idiots after that.
Rural King beats TSC all to pieces... I wish our TSC would be replaced by a Rural King, but unfortuantely we don't have them in south central Texas yet...
Nice
U plant pioneer corn 😂
Menos mal que el maíz es de alto rendimiento que sino no sale ni para un café.
My dad's big moan was you have the combine all year and the first day you use it it goes wrong !!!
Great video. I have a k and used 238 this year, I got a black 330 and everything seems to be optioned like yours but the drive chain seems to be off about 1.5 inches. I see some needing jackshaft to align them, but yours is directly connected. Did you need to change something on yours for alignment? May be able to flip the pulley over to keep the belt aligned and slide the shaft outward
Thank you! Yeah I ran into the same problem. As long as your combine has a new enough serial number, you’ll just need a new double sprocket for drive sprocket to run both your grain and your new corn head. When I get a chance today, I’ll look up the part number for you to give to your local Agco dealer. It has that extra inch and a half offset built into it and bolts right onto the end of the shaft sticking out of the throat.
@@richfarmer6143 That would be great! Thanks
@@lylebaker7893 ok, I still had the box mine came in. The AGCO part number is 70575291. It is a double sprocket with 13T and 25T. Note, this should be all you need as long as your combine serial number is newer than 8201. Otherwise, it looks like you might need to chase down the newer countershaft which is part number 1162502-7 in the corn head book. Note the double sprocket is part number 0575291-0 in the parts book printed in 1981. So, AGCO must do a little adjusting on the part numbers for house keeping.
Perfect! Thanks for detailed info. Mine is non variable header speed and looks like yours. It is from 1975, S/N above 20,000. Mine is 13 tooth, sounds like it should work.
What state are you guys from? Looks beautiful.
What inch rows of corn is the head set up to run? 30" , 36"?
Its a 3 row 30”. Sorry I missed your comment earlier. Thanks for watching.
How efficient is the gas engine? We’ve never had a gas combine before. We’ve had all IH over the years, 8 row machines. 3 915’s, then 3 1480’s, 3 1680’s, 2188’s, 2388’s, then went to 2 8120’s.
Wow! That’s a lot of combines! I bet it was neat to see the change over time. I don’t have any other combine experience to compare it to. But, I did end up measuring the fuel consumption later on, and it looked like it was burning about 5 gal of gas per acre. Now, with my 4 row planter, basically I had to run two passes per planter pass. So, if I chase down a six row, or drop one of my planter units, I’ll be able to run the same amount of passes on the combine per planter pass. Folks on here are telling me, I’ll be able to save 33% of that fuel. Which will be about 1.5 gallon or about $5.10 an acre as of yesterday.
That hat was a little annoying swaying around there, but I'll bet you are having fun!
Lol, you aren’t wrong. I had no idea it was in the way til I was editing the video. I am having fun though. I love farming, even with the breakdowns and challenges that come with it. Thanks for watching!
Hey friend how many acres do you farm.We had some ACCombines,a11,M3,were good combines.
Hi Billy! In ‘22 I farmed 15 acres. 12 corn and 3 beans. In ‘23 I’ll be at 25. 10 corn, 12 beans, and 3 wheat.
Those combines sound like some interesting models. I bet it was a leap in comfort from the A2 to the M3. Do you still get out there with any of those?
I just sub to your channel I may have missed it but how much land do you Fram love the old stuff.that you fram with keep up the good work and the videos
Thanks for subscribing. Currently, I am at 15 tillable acres and growing. I love the old equipment too. My dad and I love watching others do the same. We’re the kind of folks that’ll slow down and watch if we see it at work in the fields. Thanks for the encouragement! I hope to keep growing and running our old equipment for many years to come.
Are you going to try get more land to farm
@@timmartin6106 yessir. It’s in the works.
You should never have to use starting fluid on a gasoline engine. You definitely have a fuel system issue, or a very week starting/ignition system.
I’ll have to look into it over the next year. Currently, the fuel drains back into the tank over night, so I can either crank til it fills the carb and starts, or give her a quick blast of the nose candy. Is there a check valve or anything they make to keep fuel in the carb?
@@richfarmer6143 add gasoline to the fuel vent on the carb, no need for spray I keep gasoline in a water bottle with a hole in the lid for just that
@@johndowe7003 I’ll have to check that out. I’ve never gotten into the carb except for replacing the tiny fuel filter in it. Guess I’ll have to do some reading.
@@richfarmer6143 what engine is in it? is it a ford 300? most carbs have a vent hole on em, your needle and seat are probably trashed and fuel just leaks out of the fuel bowl back into the tank, if you got a carter type 1 barrel you can rig up a little copper line to your vent then just add gasoline everytime ya wanna run it. i hate having to use up expensive ass carb/starter fluid. back then the cans were cheap but now theyre like 8 dollars each can
@@johndowe7003 it has the Chevy 250 inline 6. Replacing the needle and seat make a lot of sense. When I get a chance, I’ll tear into it, as it probably could use a rebuild anyway. When I get around to it, I’ll have to do a video on it. The copper line sounds like a pretty good idea. That’d def save some $ over time. Is your 300 in a pickup? Or is it in a piece of equipment?
We had an International 1460, the front rotor cylinder bearing went out, that machine burnt. Luckily we had insurance on it.
there is a newer case and 2 john deer and a gleaner that burnt to the ground this year by me.
Dang! That’s a lot of fires. I bet those farmers are having a tough time, but I bet they’ll get through it. One of my friends said sometimes harvest feels like a war of attrition. Ya just gotta keep going! Thanks for watching.
Tighten concave
What brand of corn did you plant?
Specialty 34A007. I’m not a seed salesman or anything, but I thought it did pretty decent with our month and a half of drought at the beginning of the season.
Is that the name Specialty
@@chrisjohnson5762 yessir. I buy it from my local elevator, but I think they cover Indiana, Ohio and Michigan if I remember right. Here’s their website below.
www.specialtyhybrids.com/en-us.html
Gotta due the walk around
always about getting them good thumbnails
Thank you! CZcams just picks it out on most of my videos. I’m not sure how it figures out what’s best. Thanks for watching!
@@richfarmer6143 heck ya brother
Looks like a lot of raccoon damage along the woods.
👀 I'd love to trap em good money in selling the hides, about 40$ each . I've seen this one guy trap 200 of em in less than a week at this ranch I worked at. Was crazy since he got payed double. First for the pest control and second for the furs.
That and deer damage. We had a heard of about 15 living back there this year. You could go back anytime of day and find some in that corn. Pretty frustrating.
@@johndowe7003 that’s a good price. They are like $5 around here. Maybe we live in the land of plenty? 😂
@@richfarmer6143 yeah no idea how that works furs get graded and I know furs from a certain state aren't as valuable as from other states I don't know exactly how it all works but yeah super subjective and interesting
Should turn the motor over before use ether
Does`nt seem there is much urgency to get the repair done and the crop in !
Well, I can assure you we were wanting to get everything done as soon as possible, however we cannot control the uncontrollable. The breakdown happened on a Saturday afternoon, and no AGCO dealer that we know of was open on a Sunday. So, we got it together when we could. Unfortunately, this is only my part time job, so I can only do what I can do outside of my time at my full time job. I don’t think I’m alone here, as there are a lot us small farmers that have a town job to supplement our farm incomes. And that town job is what allows us to keep farming, so we have to put that before our farming.
With older equipment, sometimes slowing down is going faster.
Sir not to be bossy but if u dont wanna loose your corn head legs. U need to take them off. First of all they are hard to come by these days. And thd corn stalks will pull the cotterpin right out. So i suggest pulling the pin pulling legs put pin in the legs and throwem in the barn till u go unhook the corn head!
Or put it upside down in bracket