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I miss your videos I like to see older equipment working I have enjoyed the days watching your videos

Looks just like our New Idea No.7 1 row that I finished picking corn with February 24,2024 and never plugged it up once,great video here.👍

No videos for over 9 months?? What's going on??

Just wondered if there might be any more videos ? Hope everything is ok

I just wanted to say thank you for keeping that old iron going.

I operate a 715 later serail number. Some years ago i was opening a rye field when a terrible bang was heard on the mechine. The mechine trembled. As i stopped to look flames were rising on both sides of the engine. At that time no cell phone available. I ran afoot about 1/4 mile to phone and fire department. Caused no field fire but the engine blew a rod and cap through the block.

More profit and better out come old school

Ford truck ?

If you could demonstrate each adjustment that should be checked and go over what each cab control does, it would help those of us with this combine and no education on how to operate it. Thanks!

Menos mal que el maíz es de alto rendimiento que sino no sale ni para un café.

U plant pioneer corn 😂

Tighten concave

A few notes to consider. 1. When the hopper is full and you have allowed the corn in the machine to be processed kick the machine out and idle the machine down. 2. Keep machine idled down before turning on the unloading then when auger is full speed the auger up. The. When grain tank is almost empty idle back down so the auger isn’t flopping around in the tube as it empties. 3. Never idle machine down with the threshing cylinder engaged as it is hard on the it’s drive belts.

You might want to think about running the valves. Sounds like you have a sticky valve or just some adjustment issues. Otherwise, I think you have a good tractor there. 👍🇺🇲🚜💪

We had an International 1460, the front rotor cylinder bearing went out, that machine burnt. Luckily we had insurance on it.

I love watching your videos with the little Gleaner. I used to operate a big JD and CLAAS Lexion as well as older New Holland and Laverda but I do have to ask, Why is you were only taking 2 rows at a time and not 3?

the dumbest farmers harvest the biggest potatoes

This is a good video. Good descriptions of the combine's setup, without excessive talking. It was great actually hearing and seeing the combine run from the cab, even learning about acceptable grain loss. Great job, and keep up the good work!

We had a 2 row and old case tractor we would hook a trailer on the Ford 8n about Sept and cut 2 rows with a corn knife and feed the hogs then when corn was ready to picked dad had a wooden wagon no hoist he would pick a wagon load before work then I would shovel it to corn crib after school share Remer hitting loose nails with the shovel and cockles burs in my socks

My dad's big moan was you have the combine all year and the first day you use it it goes wrong !!!

Dice el refrán que más sabe el loco en su casa que el cuerdo en la ajena, pero esta es la trilla que más rara he visto en mi vida, cuantas vueltas perdidas y con el añadido de combustible gastado tontamente. En mi empresa que trillamos hasta 100 Has. por día y maquina, ¿Que haría este hombre?

Very nice... and you didn't pay a half million bucks for a machine that will cut out and leave you sitting waiting for a tech with a computer to show up and charge you $200 an hour plus field service. Swap in clean filters fix a busted hose and good to go.

Back when we farmed cotton, sometimes I'd run into the wee hours of the morning picking as much cotton as I could ahead of an incoming Gulf storm... we used to get some "tropical systems" back then, little Gulf storms (some not so little) with winds up to about 50 mph or even more, and usually dumped between 3-5 inches or rain or so. Thing was, high winds and open cotton isn't a good thing, and cotton that gets that wet can fall out of the boll onto the ground, or even if it doesn't, the color suffers and thus the quality and you get docked on the price. I remember one time I ran the picker until about 2 am, nice and breezy with the approaching storm, and I watched the lightning from off in the distance for a couple hours til it started getting close, pretty windy and kept right on picking til it started to rain. When it started raining, I picked to the end of the field and then shifted the picker units out of gear, popped her in road gear, and started heading for the house a mile away. Got soaked by the time I got there, but we got everything we could ahead of the storm.

I friggin' DESPISE sealed bearings, and here's why. They don't have anywhere NEAR enough grease in them-- they're MADE to fail, particularly in dusty, dirty, high speed/high stress conditions. I'm from the TX Gulf Coast, down here we "ridge till" or farm on raised beds, mostly 30 inch but a few older smaller guys like us are still on 36-40 inch beds. We use a row disk or "hipper" to pull up the beds in the spring, break up the ground, and dry things out a little from the winter and take out any henbit or sow thistle or whatever springs up before planting, and usually to rebuild beds after knifing in fertilizer or incorporating Trifluralin or other yellow herbicides with a regular tandem disk. Well, we have a real good old Caldwell hipper, basically the same as a Burch hipper, which has two opposed pairs of disk blades on either side of the row throwing the soil up towards each other to rebuild the bed and shape it up. Each pair of blades has a cast iron bearing housing between them, set at a fixed angle, with a pair of flat race ball bearings with square bores set inside them running back to back, with the arbor bolt (disk axle) and a couple of cast iron blade spacers on either side of the bearings to space them out away from the bearings, with a disk bumper on the outside end and blade spacer with lock plate and nut on the inside end, just like a regular disk axle assembly but only using two blades. Only problem was that this thing was made in the mid-70's when "sealed bearings" were a HUGE thing, and the whole industry was switching to them for "maintenance free operation" and crap like that. Yeah, well a sealed bearing under light load in a relatively clean dry spot is one thing, down in the dirt running at an angle slicing 3 inches deep in hard clay is another. Oh, the original bearings made back in the 70's weren't bad-- better quality and they held up, but as they wore out and the years passed and they got replaced, particularly when Chinese bearings started to become a big thing, then they were NO BUENO!!! I mean even a brand new bearing, I'd be lucky to get a season out of them. Part of the reason was, I didn't have a hydraulic press at the time and took the things to the dealership for their guys to press in a pair of bearings for me. One day I took the assembly home, installed the blades and axle through them, and went to the field, and didn't even finish the day til the thing locked up. I took it back the next day and got another pair of bearings, and stood in the shop while he pressed them in... stupid idiot was pressing bearings INTO A BORE HOLE by pressing on the INSIDE RACE... you NEVER press in a bearing that way-- it will dent the balls and destroy the bearing, because the balls have to transfer the press force from the inside race through the balls to the outside race being pushed into the hole. I asked him, "Where's your press tool?" He was like "what?" and I explained-- it's like a piece of pipe with a flat cap on it, just a hair smaller than the outside diameter of the outer race, used to push the bearing into the hole by the OUTER race (You DO push bearings onto a SHAFT by the inner race, never the outer one for the same reason!) He didn't know what I was talking about, so I went to an oilfield supply and got a gas rot line coupler the correct size and thickness and welded a 3/4 inch plate on one end for the press to push on. Took it with me every time and the bearings started lasting a LITTLE longer, but they still went kaput WAY too soon. SO I got the idea, "why not drill a hole in the back of the housing, thread it, and install a grease zerk so you can grease them bearings?" SO I tried it. I had finally bought a press because I had a stupid kid one day working at the dealer who REFUSED to use the press tool and got the bearings started crooked and just kept pressing and pressing til the bearings exploded and ruined the housing, went off like a hand grenade and blew balls and shattered steel race everywhere like glass... SO I made the dealer give me a new set of bearings and a new housing, took the old one and my tool, and went and bought a press at Homier or whatever it was with the trucks before Harbor Freight was a thing. I drilled, tapped, and installed a zerk into each housing as the bearings went out. Of course the sealed bearings are sealed on both sides, but I could take a screwdriver and hammer and pop one side of the seals off the bearing so the grease could get in, and install the two open sides back-to-back in the bore facing each other with the space between them as a grease annulus. The inner races butt together and when the nut is tightened are squeezed tight, sealing the grease between the bearings and the housing. Imagine my surprise when I started popping the seal off one side of these brand new bearings and found how they "grease them for life" at the factory-- They have ONE LITTLE DAB of grease just inside the seal, I mean it's about the size of two green peas, about like what you'd tell a little kid when describing how much toothpaste they should use on their tiny toothbrush... They don't even squirt it between the balls in the actual raceway groove in the bearing races, NO, it's up on the 'step" or shoulder of the race between the balls and the side seals. IOW, the bearing has to get HOT ENOUGH for the grease to run before it will EVER get into the balls and races to actually lube anything. Plus that tiny dab of grease isn't even enough to thoroughly coat everything, so what happens is, when the bearing is put into service and it's new, it's fine because its running smooth and the seals are good, but of course dirt and grit eat at the seals and then moisture wicks its way in and rusts the balls and race because this dab of grease doesn't coat everything. Then the bearing has to crush all this grit and circulate it around while it's running, getting hot and burning off what little grease isn't soaked up by all this rust and crud being pulverized in there soaking it up. Eventually the bearing dries out and grinds itself to oblivion or heats up and disintegrates like your ball bearing did. Once I installed zerks and started greasing the hipper before and after each use, the bearing failures STOPPED. Greasing it before made sure all the bearings had fresh grease between them in the housing ready to run, and greasing them after before setting the implement off the 3 point made sure that fresh grease had filled the bearings and pooched a bit out of the worn seals, forming a moisture barrier to prevent water wicking in during the off season. I've seen guys get those grease needles and grease sealed bearings before they ever install them on the shaft or into the machine. it's a good idea because the factory grease is this clear, slightly yellowish, low grade CRAP that won't hold up, and there's not enough of it to last or keep the bearing lubricated and in good shape, let alone make up for worn or dry seals as the bearing ages and keep moisture and dirt from getting in. That's what I do to sealed bearings on balers and stuff where you really don't have a choice or option to replace it with a greasable flange bearing or whatever... good luck!

Here's a trick I learned at a controlled burn clinic I went to one time... they actually took us out to the field and we did a controlled burn after the classroom part. When we got there, he handed us each an old hoe with an old mudflap off a truck attached to it. What we did was, we controlled the fire with those things. Oh, you don't swing it and swat the fire like they old folks used to with a croker sack; that just fans the flames and makes it worse. NO, you take this thing and you just DRAG IT along over the edge of the fire; the mud flap mashes everything down to the ground and cuts it off from oxygen, and snuffs the fire out... we could walk right along the fire line and keep it from going anywhere near the fence or make the fire stop pretty much wherever we wanted to... I was amazed at how well those things worked! Basically you've seen those things like a hoe but with a straight blade for like chopping stuff?? Well, all they did was take an old garden hoe, straighten out the blade paralle to the handle, and then drill a couple holes and bolt an old mudflap off a HD truck to it... works great!

One time I was working doing something with the old '68 Ford 5200 row crop diesel and I had pulled up to the leg tank and dieseled her up. I was just about finished just standing there and suddenly smoke started POURING out from under the hood. Next thing I know the slight oil leak from the valve cover gasket down the engine block caught on fire. I shut the diesel off right quick and put the hose up and turned the leg tank valve off, and looked around for the hose. Didn't see the hose handy but there was a shovel there, so I grabbed it and just started digging and throwing dirt on the side of the block. Snuffed the fire out pretty quick. Got to looking and somehow or other something shorted and it burned up the stupid new generator, which was only a year or two old. Fried the wiring harness across the front of the engine back to the regulator box behind the battery. Well, I pulled the wiring harness off and cut it apart at the kitchen table, cut out the burned spots and soldered in new wire, taped up any burned insulation spots on the other wires, made sure everything was good, and then re-wrapped it with electrical tape, so it was good as new. What ticked me off was, I had JUST bought a new tachometer for that tractor, which was about $350, so I could get the speed right to spray more accurately. AND of course the tachometer, instead of having a gear that ran off the cam where the distributor was on the gas versions of those tractors, no, this one had a little worm gear and spur gear running on the back of the generator shaft, screwed to the back of it. The generator wasn't but a couple years old. I always hated those old generator systems because they didn't put out that much power, they were prone to burning up and wearing out commutators, and if it wasn't the generator itself, it was the stupid regulator which was a separate box. SO I decided I wasn't replacing all that crap. BUT I still needed to run my generator to work the tachometer. SO what I decided to do was install a Chevy alternator, like I'd done on other tractors before. First I gutted the burned-up generator, took it apart, ground through all the field wiring, and ripped it all out since it was all fried and burned. Then I repacked the bearings and bushings, removed the brushes, and took the fan off the front pulley, making it a "dummy" that was just there to spin the tachometer cable. Then I got a Chevy alternator and mounted it just below the generator. The regular 70's Chevy alternators have a two-wire flat plug on the side and a single large power output lug on the back. They're super-simple to wire up... there's a brown wire and a red wire on the 2-prong plug which connects to the internal regulator. The brown wire is an "exciter" wire from the key switch, "hot in run" and the red wire is the "field" wire which energizes the regulator and the rotor when the thing starts up. The brown wire kinda senses the voltage in the system, and the regulator controls the magnetic field of the rotor to vary the output of the alternator when its running. The lug on the back is the output of the alternator, which runs through a heavy-duty wire back to the battery cable terminal on the starter. All you have to do is run a wire to the run switch (key switch) which feeds the alternator through the 2 prong regulator plug, then connect a short wire from the field terminal looped back to the red wire on the 2-prong plug for the field power supply, and then run a heavy-duty wire (that can handle at least 70 amps or so) around from the alternator output lug to the battery cable lug nut on the alternator with a big ring terminal. For safety I installed two fuses of 80 amps capacity-- when the tractor is running, the alternator is producing power and sending it through the HD wire to the starter battery cable, and if it shorts out between the alternator and starter it will full-field the alternator (maximum output) and really heat that wire red hot and could start a fire-- so I put one fuse at the end right by the ring terminal on the alternator. When the tractor is off, since that HD wire is attached to the battery cable at the starter lug terminal, if it were to short out, it could backfeed 100% battery power through the wire and heat it red hot and start a fire, so I installed a second 80 amp fuse between the wire and the starter cable end lug ring terminal, so if it were to short in EITHER condition running or parked, it will blow the fuse on either end and prevent a fire. I also installed an ammeter in the circuit so I could check the output easily and make sure the alternator was putting out properly. I measured around the pulleys to see what size belt I needed, which wasn't a problem, BUT I did have one small problem-- the belt was going to rub on the side frame rail of the tractor beside the engine... well, actually part of the front bolster but still same difference. I got to looking around and I had a flat back idler pulley off an 83 Mercury we'd bought for parts on another project, and there was a bolt hole in the casting nearby, so I cut a piece of angle iron, torched a hole for a bolt, and then figured out where the pulley needed to be mounted, and then welded the pulley bracket to the angle iron, and bolted it in place... went and bought a belt and presto! Perfecto! The thing worked like a champ... belt came up from the crank pulley over the water pump to the faux generator, down to the alternator, around its pulley over the bolster edge around the idler pulley, and then back down around the crank pulley again. Worked like a champ. We ran it that way for another 5-so years til we traded the tractor off on a 96 Ford 5610S. The dealer dolled the tractor up and did some work to it, new tires and PTO brake and some other minor things. I figured he'd get rid of my electrical system and replace the generator and regulator, but when they repainted it and put it on the lot, NOPE it was just the way I had engineered it. Tach worked, alternator worked, idler pulley worked.

TSC... "Never what you need out here" LOL:) I used to love TSC, bought a LOT of stuff from them over the years when we were row cropping, chains, hoses, sprayer parts, water well stuff, pins, hydraulic stuff, tires, some batteries (usually cheaper at Auto Zone-- used to get those $30 AZ batteries and put them in everything... cheaper than them big dozer batteries that used to be $120 on the Ford 6600 tractors back in the 90's, started just as well unless it was REAL cold). Now TSC is a bad joke. I hate even going into a TSC anymore... most of it is a dog/pony store, and the rest is garden junk and decor stuff... hardly any real "supplies" anymore, parts and stuff. I got sick and tired of having say a 3/4 female elbow bust on the sprayer and going over there to get one, and having to get 2-3 different fittings to screw together to replace it because they didn't have the right size, didn't have the right thread, didn't have the right fitting, so it was just "grab stuff and figure out how to make it connect up to what you had and fit in the space... and of course now they won't hire anybody but kids whole work for nothing, and they don't work hardly, and their managers are pretty much worthless too anymore... we had a good one and she quit the company for a better paying job, and we never had anything but idiots after that. Rural King beats TSC all to pieces... I wish our TSC would be replaced by a Rural King, but unfortuantely we don't have them in south central Texas yet...

Sir not to be bossy but if u dont wanna loose your corn head legs. U need to take them off. First of all they are hard to come by these days. And thd corn stalks will pull the cotterpin right out. So i suggest pulling the pin pulling legs put pin in the legs and throwem in the barn till u go unhook the corn head!

Gotta due the walk around

Nice

Time to do it again. Dad 😂

I would figure you have used the planter by now . Thanks for sharing bud!

What year is your new/old planter.

I like older equipment

Always a lot to do in the spring. We used an old brooder coop converted into a work shop (heated) to do a lot of maintenance in the winter months. Still had a lot of the bigger equipment to do in the spring outside. Have a great season !

VERY Nice Gleaner, yall have taken very good care of it. We have two on our Farm, a K and a M2. Both machines will "starve bird to death"

Were have you been everything ok ready for some videos

As they used to say back home, "Who writes your material?"

Looks like a good work horse of a tractor. I'm parcel to Ford tractors but have always thought the 560 and 460 made really pretty tractors. Love the videos.

That's great, I have a d15 series 2 as well with I assume a factory 3 point and instead of a power director, it has a power reverser. Not sure how rare they were. What does the 15 get used for?

Just about ready for field work soon . Happy Resurrection weekend!

Field ready 👍🏻✌️👋🇺🇸! Thanks for sharing, enjoyed watching!

Happy for you . Have things going your way now

Looks wet there. Hope things dry out.

Can I ask what state your in? I believe Napa carries those push nuts

Nothing beats the old iron

Great video. Keep it coming! International girl!

nice seeing old iron still in use, enjoy your videos keep them coming!!

Cool beans bro

Congrats on 1K I’ve been 🎉watching since the very beginning Waylon