Thank you for your interesting video a really enjoyed watching it. just a few key points for anyone watching (I am a qualified electrician) The fuse is to PROTECT THE CABLE and the fuse rating should be determined by the current carrying capacity of the cable/wire. The positive wire going from the battery to the 230v mains charger is not protected upto the 30A fuse, there should be a fuse at the battery end to protect it based on the size of the wire. Hope you dont mind me making this comment its a great video.
Hi, I'm from Berlin Germany and my english isn't perfect at all. The way you explainded the Elektrik here is so smart and just for me (No Idea in Elektrik) everthing looks so easy. Thank you for showing that here. best reagards from Berlin, Stefan
Thank you for posting this very detailed and informative information. I'm going to upgrade my current basic 12v system with lead acid batteries to lithium and DC to DC charging. Your video will be of great help. One question is why you went for 3, 100ah batteries rather than a single 300ah battery?
Thanks for the comment. at the time cost was a factor and also having 3x 100ah, if a battery fails or something happens I still have 2 whereas one 'big mama' means ive lost the lot so to speak if that makes senses. however, might consider that option now in 2024 as prices have fallen and weight is a factor aswell.
This is an amazing video Watched heaps of bs videos but this video is real And a quick question here about the master fuse, on 4:48 What does it call? What should I search on google to find it and what do you mean by the appropriate fuse size for the battery size?
I'm no expert in all fairness and 100ah is what Renogy sell and based on the 'tear down' video from Will Prowse I decided Renogy was for me and I wanted 300ah to be 'off-grid' for several days at a time with no sun/solar. I guess 2x Lithium 150ah is essentially the same thing and probably comes down more to cost/size/weight etc... thanks for watching and I'm please you are finding the videos useful.
This is a very useful video and thanks for taking time to explain things properly. You showed the formula used to calculate the size of the solar panel in-line fuse of 15A. (Q1) If you had 2 solar panels rather than 3 (e.g. 200W x 2), or even a single 400W panel, will the formula be the same, i.e. will the solar panel in-line fuse be 15A? (Q2) You also have a DP isolator for the solar panels, which I believe is acting as a Circuit Breaker. In that case, what is the size of the DP isolator, i.e. will that be 15A just like the in-line fuse?
check out here for the fuses uk.renogy.com/renogy-mc4-waterproof-in-line-fuse-holder-w-fuse/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwuaiXBhCCARIsAKZLt3mPONFRNInUY2FnF1AHlXKjRGzESvJwO1xkcuUcpRt2QEjzwtmDmZwaAgcREALw_wcB there are only a few options so do the calculation and go with the closest or most appropriate size for your system
my DP isolator is just a double pole switch, it is not a breaker of any type. it is just for circuit isolation if required. I have a megafuse in the Lynx.
Just discovered your channel. You have a great knack of explaining things very clearly. One question about your electrical system. Do you keep your inverter switched on all the time when you are off grid or do only switch it on when necessary? I understand that it switches off automatically when you are on EHU/Shore power.
Hi there and thanks for the great question. we only switch it on when it is required whilst off grid, it has a built in automatic transfer switch so when connected to shore power the sockets are live without having to switch the inverter on. hope that helps
@@wiltshirecustomcamper7203 does the socket that your using for your low power equipment still work when your attached to a 240v hook up, just bought my first camper and it needs some good upgrades, I’m looking forward to getting stuck in and these types of videos fantastic.
Fantastic video, thank you so much. You explained everything and made my installation so much easier. One question, where are you earthing from? Direct from the earth point on the Lynx? From what I have researched that should be enough but wanted to ask you. Wonder if doing it from the battery aswell is worth it??? Thank you so much Tom
Hi just watching your videos as we are staring our campervan conversion. I was just wondering if you had a list of the various bits you used re the electrics. I've tried to write them down as I've gone through the video but thought you might have a quick reference sheet?? Please?? Thank you so much
Hello there Looking at your diagram, it seems that most of the parts are connected with 16mm cables. Can I use a 1.5m TPS or 2.5 TPS cable and just take the live and neutral wires instead of using 16mm cables?
Dont use solid core cable in a van and refer to the wiring regulations of the country you are in for amperage ratings of different wire sizes. 2.5 seems very small to replace a 16mm cable????
Regarding "popping" the inverter by overloading the outputs, could you not fit a suitable rated breaker on the inverter output which would cut should the inverter limits be approached ?
Hi Great video, just wondering how you wired the 240v inverter input from the consumer unit, did you cut off the 3 pin plug and wire directly from the consumer unit? Thanks David
I have a double socket underneath the consumer unit that is wired to one of the breakers. the inverter then plugs in here along with the AC battery charger.
As i used 35mm cable which is rated to 162 amps when 'free floating' i used a 150amp fuse. if you used 50mm cable you could fuse at 175amp. I know 150amp does not quite cover the potential capacity of the inverter but i never use it anywhere near full potential so I am happy with the fusing. after 18months of use it has never blown. hope that helps in some way. search google for BS7671 regs table 4D1A for amp ratings for cables.
Great video, just a quick question regarding your fuse on your battery bank…did you come up with the 300amp fuse due to the fact the 3 batteries are 100amp each? I have got 5 100 Amh Renogy lithium wired in parallel i was wondering what size fuse i should go for? Any ideas regards Mark
At the time that was indeed my thought process about batteries to fuse, i.e. 3x 100ah batts = 300 amp fuse. HOWEVER, a much better way is to consider you total load in amps if everything was on such as all 12v items and inverter running at full capacity and extrapolate a total load in amps. then ensure this is below the capacity of the cable from battery to busbar and then fuse accordingly. so if your total draw is , say 180amps and you have a 50mm cable that would give you a absolute total amperage of 219A according to table 4D1A of the BS7671 regs if out in the open air (google the table), then a 200A fuse would be a good option being just over the total required load but below the point where the cable will have trouble. Incidently I have changed my main fuse to 200A since making the video!! hope that helps.
Great question! if you cook with gas and heat with gas or diesel then yes, most certainly. if you go for a gas free build and cook on induction then I would go a bit more, at least 400ah or more if you have the space/money! my next van build will be gas free and i will go for a bigger battery bank.
@@wiltshirecustomcamper7203 Thanks for that , last question did you use a 40amp DC isolator switch from your solar ? . I have 400 watts of solar but am struggling to find a 40amp DC isolator , any ideas thanks.
Actually, yes we are. I am just completing the kitchen and when the video comes out you will see a small microwave connected to the inverter. I was not going to but then thought that we will not be 'cooking' as such with but just re-heating so it will only be on for small bursts so will be fine on my 300ah batts.
A mixture of eBay, Amazon and other van related retailers. I am planning to do a parts list (non affiliate linked as dont believe in that crap) but it takes time to do....
Just after subscribing to your channel. Fantastic detail and as i am building an l4 peugeot boxer i am really interested in following your videos. I wanted to ask you about the live wire from the van battery to the leisure batteries. Did you run it under the floor along the passenger side?
The DC/DC charger is under the passenger seat and the cables run from that up the pillar and along the top to he back. hope that helps. good luck with your build. If I did it again I would go under the floor as it is a shorter cable run so consider that before completing the floor. The enclosed 'insulated' space will affect your max amps though so check that out as well on cable choice. search google for BS7671 table 4d1a for a good guide.
@@wiltshirecustomcamper7203 Thank you so much for getting back to me so soon. I really appreciate the time and effort that you put into making your videos and i have been taking some great advise from yourself. Great to see your son out helping you as it reminds me of the days that i spent with my father learning from him over 40 years ago. Keep up the good work
Only just picking up on your videos, which are excellent. I do have in mind a very similar range of equipment and wonder why the inverter can't handle the induction hob? Could you explain why it can't? (Picked up on the children message). Would a larger inverter allow more equipment to be used at once?
Ah! yes! I went for a 2000W inverter as it is fine for my needs but a 3000W would give you more power and therefore will run more devices at once. if an induction hob is no more than about 1800W it will run fine. The children part was actually directed towards wifey who would, without consideration, turn on the induction hob, boiler and run a kettle all at once and my expensive inverter goes pop! By forcing certain items like the hob and boiler to only run from 'shore' power it protects the inverter from overload by 'others' in the van. hope that makes sense. I will explain this in more detail in my upcoming van tour...
@@wiltshirecustomcamper7203 Thanks very much. Very helpful. I'm thinking low power microwave, small induction hob and a kettle to run through an inverter. 3kw sounds more suitable for that lot. Wonder if switched sockets might help fellow travellers (wives and children) think before adding to the power load???
@@stevenallen6606 I have seen that before where an induction hob and electric water heater are on a 'toggle' switch so it is either one or the other but cant be both at the same time! might be a good solution and should be fairly simple to wire up? For a 3kw inverter I would recommend from my experiences over the last year to go for a bare min of 300Ah lithium but ideally 400Ah+ depending on your charges options.
Not yet but still planning to do so. fighting the clock and the weather to get it finished at the moment so will re-visit these 'extras' videos in due course. thanks for watching. the cable came from eBay from various suppliers although I found that for the smaller cable for lights etc, a roll of thin flat 2 core cable from my local electrical wholesaler ( the sort of thing found of a table lamp) was much cheaper if you dont mind the brown/blue colours rather than black/red. if you are just stating out, measure what you think you will need...... then double it........then add a bit more for good luck, and then you will be in the right ballpark!
Hi - thanks for the videos. Subscribed. Recently found them and are proving helpful in my decision as to do a self build, or not! I'm wondering about your circuit protection on your inverter feed to your general 230v sockets. All other 230v items pass appear to through the consumer unit but the general sockets from the inverter do not appear to do so. Have I missed something or is the inverter giving you the protection of the consumer unit. Otherwise everything was explained well enough that I could easily understand. Many thanks for that.
The renogy instructions show the end device connected directly to the inverter into the 3 pin socket on the inverter. I have chosen to run cables to the outlets, but essentially the end result is the same, that the device is directly connected to the inverter. I can only assume the inverter is fused/protected internally. thanks for watching.
Would a 50mm2 cable be enough to carry a maximum load of 175A (if everything in my camper was operating at once - excluding dc to dc charger as I wouldn't be running van at same time)? I am getting mixed info online but the supplier (oxford welding supplies) rates the cable to 345A. The run would be very short as this is the connection between battery and bus bars. Thanks a lot.
Table 4d1A in the BS7671 requirements for electrical installations rates 50mm2 single core cable as follows: enclosed in thermally insulated wall or trunking = 99A, in trunking or conduit = 151A, clipped direct to wall = 182A. NOTE: I am not an electrician and have just read that from the book so please do seek pro advice if not sure. 70mm would give you 293A clipped to wall so that might be a winner but do seek pro advice as I say. hope that helps. do a google search for the afore mentioned table and you should find it OK.
@wiltshirecustomcamper7203 thanks a lot. I think I'll just connect my solar charge controller cable directly to battery and not through bus bars so thag I can get away with the 50mm cable
How far is your dc to dc charger from car battery ? I have the same van and I'm looking to install one but 16 mm wire looks small for me. If the leisure is on the back of van 40 amp current would need 25mm at least. What is your thought ?
Well spotted, i bought the 40a DC-Dc as it was virtually the same price as the 20A version at the time. it was always my intention to run at 20A hence the 16mm cable and I use the LC connection on the front of the charger to run it at 20A which has always been plenty enough for me and I have never run out of power. if you were using 40A then regardless of distance, I would always go 25mm for belt and braces although the cable guides say 16mm is fine.
Essentially, yes! it is a glorified busbar with fuses so it saves having 'spiders legs' of wires going everywhere and separate busbars and fuse holders all over the place.
Yes, should be fine. I had fridge, lights, truma running on gas (but still has 12v for controls), microwave off inverter for a few minutes, 3 kettle boils from inverter and various USB devices charing in a 24 hour period and at the end of the first 24hrs I still had 85% SOC.
There are a great many conflicting bits of info regarding this for sure! I got my info from the following website www.electricalcarservices.com/how-to-work-out-the-correct-battery-cable-for-the-job/c-p-0-0-508 I will however double check this to be sure and safe but according to this website 50mm will do a nominal current up to 345A and as my cable lengths are under well under 300mm there is no need to upsize to allow for losses due to cable length. hope that helps on a yes but no but yes type of answer.....
So useful and so thoroughly documented even down to the fuses and cable sizing, can’t thank you enough for this 🙏🏻
Great to hear!
Thank you for your interesting video a really enjoyed watching it. just a few key points for anyone watching (I am a qualified electrician) The fuse is to PROTECT THE CABLE and the fuse rating should be determined by the current carrying capacity of the cable/wire. The positive wire going from the battery to the 230v mains charger is not protected upto the 30A fuse, there should be a fuse at the battery end to protect it based on the size of the wire. Hope you dont mind me making this comment its a great video.
Very well explained and easy to follow…as an electrician myself videos like this make me happy…a definite nod to safety first 👍🏼
Thanks for your kind comment, glad you enjoyed the video.
An excellently designed and explained system, thanks for taking the time to document this for everyone.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi, I'm from Berlin Germany and my english isn't perfect at all. The way you explainded the Elektrik here is so smart and just for me (No Idea in Elektrik) everthing looks so easy.
Thank you for showing that here.
best reagards from Berlin, Stefan
du bist sehr willkommen. Ich bin froh, dass es hilfreich war. If that is wrong, blame google translate :-)
@@wiltshirecustomcamper7203 it was ok...😊
Thanks for an excellent video of your system. You deliver an exceptional clarity that is easy to follow and understand. kind regards.
very kind, thank you.
Brilliant and clear explanation supported by great schematic.
Many thanks!
Many thanks for this great video.
Now it's play time.
Great video, well done 👍🏻 would of been even better if you had of linked the parts and equipment used into the description
Excellent video, clear and concise, thankyou.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for posting this very detailed and informative information. I'm going to upgrade my current basic 12v system with lead acid batteries to lithium and DC to DC charging. Your video will be of great help. One question is why you went for 3, 100ah batteries rather than a single 300ah battery?
Thanks for the comment. at the time cost was a factor and also having 3x 100ah, if a battery fails or something happens I still have 2 whereas one 'big mama' means ive lost the lot so to speak if that makes senses. however, might consider that option now in 2024 as prices have fallen and weight is a factor aswell.
Very nice presentation. Many thanks for sharing.
Many thanks!
Thank you for this video. Really well explained
Glad it was helpful!
This is an amazing video
Watched heaps of bs videos but this video is real
And a quick question here about the master fuse, on 4:48
What does it call?
What should I search on google to find it and what do you mean by the appropriate fuse size for the battery size?
it is an MBRF terminal fuse. try this link. www.12voltplanet.co.uk/blue-sea-systems-5191-mrbf-terminal-fuse-block-30-300a.html
Another awesome and clear video - keep them coming please. What are the dis/advantages with using three 100AH batteries over two 150AH batteries?
I'm no expert in all fairness and 100ah is what Renogy sell and based on the 'tear down' video from Will Prowse I decided Renogy was for me and I wanted 300ah to be 'off-grid' for several days at a time with no sun/solar. I guess 2x Lithium 150ah is essentially the same thing and probably comes down more to cost/size/weight etc... thanks for watching and I'm please you are finding the videos useful.
None whatsoever.
This is a very useful video and thanks for taking time to explain things properly. You showed the formula used to calculate the size of the solar panel in-line fuse of 15A.
(Q1) If you had 2 solar panels rather than 3 (e.g. 200W x 2), or even a single 400W panel, will the formula be the same, i.e. will the solar panel in-line fuse be 15A?
(Q2) You also have a DP isolator for the solar panels, which I believe is acting as a Circuit Breaker. In that case, what is the size of the DP isolator, i.e. will that be 15A just like the in-line fuse?
check out here for the fuses uk.renogy.com/renogy-mc4-waterproof-in-line-fuse-holder-w-fuse/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwuaiXBhCCARIsAKZLt3mPONFRNInUY2FnF1AHlXKjRGzESvJwO1xkcuUcpRt2QEjzwtmDmZwaAgcREALw_wcB there are only a few options so do the calculation and go with the closest or most appropriate size for your system
my DP isolator is just a double pole switch, it is not a breaker of any type. it is just for circuit isolation if required. I have a megafuse in the Lynx.
@@wiltshirecustomcamper7203 Thanks. Really appreciate your feedback.
Just discovered your channel. You have a great knack of explaining things very clearly. One question about your electrical system. Do you keep your inverter switched on all the time when you are off grid or do only switch it on when necessary? I understand that it switches off automatically when you are on EHU/Shore power.
Hi there and thanks for the great question. we only switch it on when it is required whilst off grid, it has a built in automatic transfer switch so when connected to shore power the sockets are live without having to switch the inverter on. hope that helps
@@wiltshirecustomcamper7203 does the socket that your using for your low power equipment still work when your attached to a 240v hook up, just bought my first camper and it needs some good upgrades, I’m looking forward to getting stuck in and these types of videos fantastic.
Hi, thanks for all the info, love the laid back approach. Is there a downlaod for the schematic?
No, sorry but thanks for watching and glad it was useful.
Fantastic video, thank you so much. You explained everything and made my installation so much easier.
One question, where are you earthing from? Direct from the earth point on the Lynx? From what I have researched that should be enough but wanted to ask you. Wonder if doing it from the battery aswell is worth it???
Thank you so much
Tom
I am taking a ground from the Lynx to the body as everything directly or indirectly connects through it. hope that helps.
Hi just watching your videos as we are staring our campervan conversion. I was just wondering if you had a list of the various bits you used re the electrics. I've tried to write them down as I've gone through the video but thought you might have a quick reference sheet?? Please?? Thank you so much
Ah yes, on my 'to do' list. thanks for watching and glad it was helpful.
Hello there
Looking at your diagram, it seems that most of the parts are connected with 16mm cables. Can I use a 1.5m TPS or 2.5 TPS cable and just take the live and neutral wires instead of using 16mm cables?
Dont use solid core cable in a van and refer to the wiring regulations of the country you are in for amperage ratings of different wire sizes. 2.5 seems very small to replace a 16mm cable????
Regarding "popping" the inverter by overloading the outputs, could you not fit a suitable rated breaker on the inverter output which would cut should the inverter limits be approached ?
Hi Great video, just wondering how you wired the 240v inverter input from the consumer unit, did you cut off the 3 pin plug and wire directly from the consumer unit? Thanks David
I have a double socket underneath the consumer unit that is wired to one of the breakers. the inverter then plugs in here along with the AC battery charger.
@wiltshirecustomcamper7203 thanks that's how I have done mine👍🏼
Hi, what size fuse did you put in the Lynx distributer for your renogy inverter ? Great videos, thank you
As i used 35mm cable which is rated to 162 amps when 'free floating' i used a 150amp fuse. if you used 50mm cable you could fuse at 175amp. I know 150amp does not quite cover the potential capacity of the inverter but i never use it anywhere near full potential so I am happy with the fusing. after 18months of use it has never blown. hope that helps in some way. search google for BS7671 regs table 4D1A for amp ratings for cables.
@@wiltshirecustomcamper7203 Thanks very much for the reply 👍🏻
Great video, just a quick question regarding your fuse on your battery bank…did you come up with the 300amp fuse due to the fact the 3 batteries are 100amp each? I have got 5 100 Amh Renogy lithium wired in parallel i was wondering what size fuse i should go for? Any ideas regards Mark
At the time that was indeed my thought process about batteries to fuse, i.e. 3x 100ah batts = 300 amp fuse. HOWEVER, a much better way is to consider you total load in amps if everything was on such as all 12v items and inverter running at full capacity and extrapolate a total load in amps. then ensure this is below the capacity of the cable from battery to busbar and then fuse accordingly. so if your total draw is , say 180amps and you have a 50mm cable that would give you a absolute total amperage of 219A according to table 4D1A of the BS7671 regs if out in the open air (google the table), then a 200A fuse would be a good option being just over the total required load but below the point where the cable will have trouble. Incidently I have changed my main fuse to 200A since making the video!! hope that helps.
Hi, thanks for the information very helpful. 300 amp it is then as my inverter is a 3000w thanks
Hi , great videos , would you say 300 ah of batteries is adequate ,or would you go for more or less now you’ve lived with it for a while , thanks JOHN
Great question! if you cook with gas and heat with gas or diesel then yes, most certainly. if you go for a gas free build and cook on induction then I would go a bit more, at least 400ah or more if you have the space/money! my next van build will be gas free and i will go for a bigger battery bank.
@@wiltshirecustomcamper7203 Thanks for that , last question did you use a 40amp DC isolator switch from your solar ? . I have 400 watts of solar but am struggling to find a 40amp DC isolator , any ideas thanks.
Great video. So you don't plan on using the Microwave off grid even though you have Lithium batteries? I just purchased mine specifically to do that.
Actually, yes we are. I am just completing the kitchen and when the video comes out you will see a small microwave connected to the inverter. I was not going to but then thought that we will not be 'cooking' as such with but just re-heating so it will only be on for small bursts so will be fine on my 300ah batts.
Great video, thanks. Could you tell me where you got your fuses (particularly the battery one) from and switches?
A mixture of eBay, Amazon and other van related retailers. I am planning to do a parts list (non affiliate linked as dont believe in that crap) but it takes time to do....
Thanks again.
Just after subscribing to your channel. Fantastic detail and as i am building an l4 peugeot boxer i am really interested in following your videos. I wanted to ask you about the live wire from the van battery to the leisure batteries. Did you run it under the floor along the passenger side?
The DC/DC charger is under the passenger seat and the cables run from that up the pillar and along the top to he back. hope that helps. good luck with your build. If I did it again I would go under the floor as it is a shorter cable run so consider that before completing the floor. The enclosed 'insulated' space will affect your max amps though so check that out as well on cable choice. search google for BS7671 table 4d1a for a good guide.
@@wiltshirecustomcamper7203 Thank you so much for getting back to me so soon. I really appreciate the time and effort that you put into making your videos and i have been taking some great advise from yourself. Great to see your son out helping you as it reminds me of the days that i spent with my father learning from him over 40 years ago. Keep up the good work
Only just picking up on your videos, which are excellent. I do have in mind a very similar range of equipment and wonder why the inverter can't handle the induction hob? Could you explain why it can't? (Picked up on the children message). Would a larger inverter allow more equipment to be used at once?
Ah! yes! I went for a 2000W inverter as it is fine for my needs but a 3000W would give you more power and therefore will run more devices at once. if an induction hob is no more than about 1800W it will run fine. The children part was actually directed towards wifey who would, without consideration, turn on the induction hob, boiler and run a kettle all at once and my expensive inverter goes pop! By forcing certain items like the hob and boiler to only run from 'shore' power it protects the inverter from overload by 'others' in the van. hope that makes sense. I will explain this in more detail in my upcoming van tour...
@@wiltshirecustomcamper7203 Thanks very much. Very helpful. I'm thinking low power microwave, small induction hob and a kettle to run through an inverter. 3kw sounds more suitable for that lot. Wonder if switched sockets might help fellow travellers (wives and children) think before adding to the power load???
@@stevenallen6606 I have seen that before where an induction hob and electric water heater are on a 'toggle' switch so it is either one or the other but cant be both at the same time! might be a good solution and should be fairly simple to wire up? For a 3kw inverter I would recommend from my experiences over the last year to go for a bare min of 300Ah lithium but ideally 400Ah+ depending on your charges options.
@@wiltshirecustomcamper7203 I'll look in to that. Thanks again
Good video , did u do the distributor video I can’t find it what company did u use for all the cable ? Have you a chart for cable sizing ?
Not yet but still planning to do so. fighting the clock and the weather to get it finished at the moment so will re-visit these 'extras' videos in due course. thanks for watching. the cable came from eBay from various suppliers although I found that for the smaller cable for lights etc, a roll of thin flat 2 core cable from my local electrical wholesaler ( the sort of thing found of a table lamp) was much cheaper if you dont mind the brown/blue colours rather than black/red. if you are just stating out, measure what you think you will need...... then double it........then add a bit more for good luck, and then you will be in the right ballpark!
Hi - thanks for the videos. Subscribed. Recently found them and are proving helpful in my decision as to do a self build, or not!
I'm wondering about your circuit protection on your inverter feed to your general 230v sockets. All other 230v items pass appear to through the consumer unit but the general sockets from the inverter do not appear to do so. Have I missed something or is the inverter giving you the protection of the consumer unit.
Otherwise everything was explained well enough that I could easily understand. Many thanks for that.
The renogy instructions show the end device connected directly to the inverter into the 3 pin socket on the inverter. I have chosen to run cables to the outlets, but essentially the end result is the same, that the device is directly connected to the inverter. I can only assume the inverter is fused/protected internally. thanks for watching.
@@wiltshirecustomcamper7203 Just on that., What cables did you run rom inverter to sockets? Just regular extension cables?
@@stephentrainor4480 2.5mm arctic blue 3 core flex. hope that helps.
Would a 50mm2 cable be enough to carry a maximum load of 175A (if everything in my camper was operating at once - excluding dc to dc charger as I wouldn't be running van at same time)? I am getting mixed info online but the supplier (oxford welding supplies) rates the cable to 345A. The run would be very short as this is the connection between battery and bus bars. Thanks a lot.
Table 4d1A in the BS7671 requirements for electrical installations rates 50mm2 single core cable as follows: enclosed in thermally insulated wall or trunking = 99A, in trunking or conduit = 151A, clipped direct to wall = 182A. NOTE: I am not an electrician and have just read that from the book so please do seek pro advice if not sure. 70mm would give you 293A clipped to wall so that might be a winner but do seek pro advice as I say. hope that helps. do a google search for the afore mentioned table and you should find it OK.
@wiltshirecustomcamper7203 thanks a lot. I think I'll just connect my solar charge controller cable directly to battery and not through bus bars so thag I can get away with the 50mm cable
How far is your dc to dc charger from car battery ? I have the same van and I'm looking to install one but 16 mm wire looks small for me. If the leisure is on the back of van 40 amp current would need 25mm at least. What is your thought ?
Well spotted, i bought the 40a DC-Dc as it was virtually the same price as the 20A version at the time. it was always my intention to run at 20A hence the 16mm cable and I use the LC connection on the front of the charger to run it at 20A which has always been plenty enough for me and I have never run out of power. if you were using 40A then regardless of distance, I would always go 25mm for belt and braces although the cable guides say 16mm is fine.
Is the link distributor just neater than wiring to the battery and having all separate fuses?
Essentially, yes! it is a glorified busbar with fuses so it saves having 'spiders legs' of wires going everywhere and separate busbars and fuse holders all over the place.
Can you run a fridge from the 12v on this system for 3 days off grid
Yes, should be fine. I had fridge, lights, truma running on gas (but still has 12v for controls), microwave off inverter for a few minutes, 3 kettle boils from inverter and various USB devices charing in a 24 hour period and at the end of the first 24hrs I still had 85% SOC.
The 50mm cable from the batteries is protected by a 300a fuse. I thought 95mm was needed for 300a?
There are a great many conflicting bits of info regarding this for sure! I got my info from the following website www.electricalcarservices.com/how-to-work-out-the-correct-battery-cable-for-the-job/c-p-0-0-508 I will however double check this to be sure and safe but according to this website 50mm will do a nominal current up to 345A and as my cable lengths are under well under 300mm there is no need to upsize to allow for losses due to cable length. hope that helps on a yes but no but yes type of answer.....
Thanks ;-)
Hi What did you use to draw the schematic diagram
Thanks for the comment. I just used Photoshop, nothing fancy!
@@wiltshirecustomcamper7203 Thanks for the fast reply great build
👌🏼
Thanks ;-)
uk.renogy.com/12v-40a-dc-to-dc-on-board-battery-charger/
You have the fuze box the wrong way round .!
Thanks for watching. The Earth is still turning this morning so all is good.