How to change Yamaha Viper Chaincase and Engine Oil
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- Total oil used for engine oil change ended up being slightly less then 4.6litres more closer to 4.2 litres with dipstick threaded in.
How I changed the engine and chain case oil in my 2016 yamaha viper rtx.
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Great video, very detailed! It's crazy that so many people suggest sucking out the chain case oil. If people go that route, they'll never have the opportunity to wipe clean the magnets and it'll eventually lead to a casing failure. Thanks for making a great how-to video.
I finally got around to opening up the chaincase to do a visual inspection and a good cleaning. I was also having a slow leak and wanted to investigate that problem. Long story short, Yamaha came out with a superseded new seal to replace the original. It is definitely a bit thicker and has cured the leaking chaincase. For any future chaincase oil changes you might to invest in it. The part number for the seal is (Part # 8JP-G7558-02) I left a paper towel under the chaincase for 4 weeks after re-assembly and not a drop of oil. Problem solved. Thanks again for your videos.
Vince Gehring thanks for the tip! No leaks on mine yet fortunately
Now I really appreciate the simplicity of my old enticer.
@jouman this viper will go 10xfurther if maintained
It was nice watching someone go thru the same steps as I mostly did. If I could add a few pointers to your well done video, this should also the time to check the tension on your chaincase. Finger tight then back out 1 1/2 turns. A tie wrap made into a big loop helps to pull the exhaust springs back into place. Works great. For future oil changes, it might be worth investing into a copper exhaust gasket as they are reusable many times. Thanks for taking the time to make this.
Vince Gehring Those are indeed all great Tips Vince! I thought of those things afterwards. (It’s hard to hit all points when making films as an amateur) hahaha. But definitely glad you added this in! Thanks for the view and your input! Appreciated! Happy sledding!
Vince Gehring the zip tie idea is a new idea to me but sounds like it would work great too! It sometimes takes much creativity when working on sleds!
Your welcome! please help me help you by subscribing to my channel! You tube has changed things and it is going to hurt me due to lack of subscribers
Attempting my first oil change on my 2018. Gonna use your video as a reference for sure!
I found that you should fill oil to the low mark of safe the zone. If you fill to the full mark you will have
oil sucked into the air box and it will leak out and make a mess. If this happens there is no harm but the oil level will end up at the low mark of the safe zone anyway.
This apply to Sidewinders also, ty. full of metal shavings, looked like glitter and only driven 500km, well guess its stuff breaking inn lol
I can't say if procedure will be identical but should be close. Check with a service manual if you can get your hands on one. Post break in service is most critical, after that there will be less metal particles.. That pretty much applies to anything brand new as well. Did first service at 800 kms, then again around 4,000 kms. Just did another at 6300kms (haven't riden much last couple years) less and less particles in chain case and on the magnets each time...
Sidewinder a beauty sled!!
Thanks Mike I have the Artic Cat and have been looking for a video to detail removing case and changing oil.
Thanks Dean, There is also the siphon method too but for the reasons I showed in my video I believe this to be the better way. maybe syphon way every other change.. If you like the video I have others on this sled and plan on making more in the future. Subscribe and hit the bell to be notified of future uploads if you'd like.
What I don’t understand is the manual and other reference say the engine gets 2.7 litres of oil, I think you said 4.6 litres…did you over fill it?
If your not doing the complete disassembly then it’s probably less. I did put a bit extra in but it’s 4 and a bit if you disconnect everything.
The oil is in the tank the lines and engine. So depends on if remove it all like I did
Ok thanks, it’s quite a job. Nice sled. Thanks for the video. We’re looking at getting a Viper
@@user-ne4pq1wm3t
They are great sleds for engine durability and efficiency. Great torque too! But ya doing a full oil change procedure is a big job! Can do it simpler way but won’t get out all the oil, and see how the chain case looks. I do both at same time
exhaust removal to change oil... im already leaning more toward Nytro ;)
Hey Biker Mike. I love watching your vids on all kinds of equipment from bokes,snowblwers and sleds. Thank you for saving me hrs of frustration.
My question is about my 2014 Sr Viper Rtx.
What is the proper procedure to adjust the chain case tension. 1 book I have says to finger tighten and then back it off 1 1/2 turns and then set lock nut. The other (small book that came wirh the used sled), says to only back it off 1/4 turn after finger tight. These are big differances.
Just wondering what your thoughts are on this issue I have.
There is some conflicting information on that out there so I’m not really sure what to recommend on that. 🤷♂️
1 1/2 turns loose.
Best and clearest Video on this to date, Great job, Hats off to you mike
Thanks Brian!
Wow... that made this sled difficult to work on... big sigh, I live so far from a dealer too ... Hope they are as reliable as they say they are .... Great detailed Video... thanks ! Charlie
Terrific Video ! Hoping I can just trust my local dealer to do this level of service. Any idea how much a job like this would have cost at a certified dealer ??
I had this done at the dealer for the initial service after break in for warranty purposes. It wasn’t cheap I think a couple hours plus the oils etc… they did do a full service though. I could tell because they reinstalled the exhaust gasket with a chunk torn out of it…..😕
I’m just getting ready to do mine again for 3rd oil change. I’d recommend gathering it all before you start. Full oil change kit, exhaust gasket, oil tank o ring Incase it’s damaged and two bottles of synthetic chaincase oil.
@@bikermike Thank you very much Mike. So great to have a connection this way. I just bought two 2016 Vipers ... each with just under 400 miles ! Same owner, and came with a perfect 12 foot clamshell. Perfect, Clean, start easily, always garaged. I am wondering what to do to each sled before I take them on the snow. Also wondering about recalls and/or Flash updates to the software. I did watch your video on staring. Any advice will be greatly appreciated by this 66 year old motorcyclist who just had to get back into sledding !
@@rkestes1955 no problem, I covered a lot of things in my videos just check out the viper playlist. There really isn’t much to do them other then oil changes, check your running gear in tracks, bearings, sliders. Etc… maybe add the 4th wheel kit to them or at least make sure those bearings are all well greased. As well as Making sure driveshaft bearings are in good shape and well greased too. All of which I have videos on. If you don’t have any starting issues don’t get the reflash done.
I was interested in the tightness of the reverse chain mine was pretty loss and how to tell if my main chain was to tight because I had major wear on my chain case cover way more than yours
Thanks Mike for posting this. What is the name of the manual you are using, just doing my 2014 for 1st time.
Why so difficult to find info on this sled? I would be totally lost without this video.
How tricky was the reverse actuator to reinstall. Will be doing mine this weekend.
It’s been awhile since I’ve done it, From what I remember it was a bit tricky. I will be changing my chaincase oil soon too so will be referring to my own video. Lol.
when you put the reverse actuator back in is tgis all you have to do because mine busted when i didn’t do that
It seems like an odd way to do it, but its worked for me numerous times now. Just make sure everything is in correct position internally.
Your 1 creative man
Great video Mike. Thanks
Thanks for that Pete! Just be careful to keep an oil level after!
Ski-doo so much easier to work on but damn i need to get my viper fixed again
Yes there is probably more simplicity to working on an two smoker doo! 🔧 💨
@@bikermike no im talking about the 1200 4 tec i owned the 2010 mxz tnt 1200 4 tec short track 120x15x1.25 but i got it used the 1200 ended up selling it tho after i swapped the track from the stock to a 120x15x1.5 changed tge primary made it a heavy wheelie machine seriously
@@bikermike i got my viper running again turns out it just needed a new battery and swap 1 of the fuses i ended up blowing did the battery wrong to excited once it cranked over i ended up charging my weak battery and put it on backwards put it on the second time then blew the 30 amp fuse swapped it and the engine runs after 2 to 5 years of sitting in the weather i got hope
Did you put any kind of special sealant or just use silicone Automotive
The O ring style seal in the case was still in good shape on mine so I did not use any sealant. I have not noticed any leaking since but I have heard of them leaking so you want to make sure the seal is still good and it may not be a bad idea to add some RTV silicone as precaution.
You’re doing an instructional video on something you’ve never done! Do I have that right???
Stu Korth this is basic maintenance, just use some common sense and anyone can figure it out... like he did and I’m sure buddy has experience on other sleds.
And yet you probably learned something.
Great video! Very thorough, thank you! 🙏
Do you have a video of installing that battery tender cable behind the seat? I want to install one,but don't know how to remove the seat.
Yes, its in the Yamaha Viper playlist.
I figured it out. Was one screw lol
I just got the SR Viper I had an apex before then with 11300 MI and never let me down until the exhaust broke but I never got stranded you think I'm going to have a good luck with the SR Viper 2016 I got on clearance from the dealer 10000k you think I want to be happy with this machine is it reliable
I had an 06 Apex before my Viper as well. I do miss the peak power of the Apex but the viper is no slouch with plenty of strong very usable torque. Had the exhaust issue with my apex as well and ended up putting on the stainless manifolds, Im sure its still going down the trail somewhere... I have not had any breakdowns with my Viper. 5,000kms 3,000miles. The ride and ergonomics are superior. I did have starting issues with mine since day one but now that has finally been cured with their latest ECM flash. I was just thinking I would do a video of all the things I like and dislike about the viper but overall I do like it better then the Apex. There are some things to do to help it last. I've done several videos you may find helpful. Hopefully you don't experience the starting issues it seems it is random thing with some vipers and not others. Either way the fix is out now if you do.
If I just want to drain the chain case and oil
Do I have to disconnect exhaust?
It’s been awhile since ive done it. So to be honest not sure. I’ve only did everything at once with full disassembly to clean chaincase magnets and cover
Was the 4.6 liters of oil the correct amount? I have the same sled and everyone says they hold 3.5 quarts max. Mine has taken over 4 quarts. Thanks in advance for your input.
It ended up being closer to 4.2 litres with oil filter. It all depends how much you disable and loose out of the lines, and if you don't change the filter.
Check oil level with warm engine, shut off and let it sit for a bit, dipstick threaded in.
Wow, that looked Complex, how many hours would it take average person. Thanks, Charlie
You can do it quicker with the use of a siphon pump to get the chain case oil out, but it doesn't get the grit out and off the magnets. If its your first time I'd set aside a full day for it and make sure you have an exhaust gasket and everything else you need. My tips should help make things go quicker 2-5 hours depending on how smooth it all goes.
No, but there are two drain plugs one by foot well and one under motor where the oil filter is.
Great video!
Hey Mike. Started to do same on mine today but thinking I'll just use my oil extractor for the chain case. Seems like a biiiig pita. I only have about 3000 km's on mine. Did you notice much gunk in your chaincase? What do you think? Also how much old oil pissed out of those lines when you removed them?
Dealer did initial at 1000kms then I did second.
A fair bit of gunk and the wear mark in case from the spinning magnet gunk. I will likely do the suction method for the third chain case service this fall soon.
Yes those oil lines will make a mess...
@@bikermike ok thanks man. I think I'm just going to do the drain plug method on the oil tank and use the extractor on the case. Should be fine for this season as I don't put a ton of km's on the sled. Btw. Get some more viper vids up lol.
@@EYECOMEINPEACE Sounds like a good plan, and yes I do need to get back to making some more viper videos!
@@EYECOMEINPEACEhow much oil you get out of chain case ?
Just came across your video and it's great. Can you please tell me what the interval is for engine oil and chain case changes on these vipers?
According to the manual... Initial Engine oil and filter after 500mi or 800 kms, then after that 12,500 mi/20,000kms ! ??? which seems way way too long to me. I use full synthetic and do it once per season. or every 3-4 thousand kms.
I also do chain case at same interval. could likely siphon it out every other and full disassembly the other time for cleaning. Yamaha recommends every season on the chain case oil as well.
Use a siphon pump on the chaincase
That works good too, but it leaves a lot of metalic grime in there especially on those magnets that grind into the case 10:13 . Depending on mileage I will maybe use the easier pump method every other change.
biker mike about how many miles should I change the chaincase oil
Refer to your service manual for intervals. Can always do it sooner if you like! (It worries me a bit how it wears away at the case). I had dealer do the first one after break in at 700kms for warranty purposes then I did my own change at 3,400kms., I think I'll be doing mine once a season which will be 2-4 thousand kilometres.
biker mike my sled has around 1,300 miles so around 2,000 km and I haven't changed the chaincase oil yet so your video should help alot
Nh Outdoors how do you use a siphon pump on the chaincase?
You did ok!!!
So I have to do all this just to change the oil?
Nick perkett engine oil can be done on its own, and you can siphon out the chain-case oil but debris will be left in case on magnets.
If I were to use a pump to get the chaincase oil out where would I stick the tube through?
Hey buddy, I am assuming through the fill location. BTW Thank you for subscribing! you tube has changed requirements for channels like mine so I need all the subs I can get If you know somebody that would also like my channel it would help a ton!
I sub'd ya back btw!
No problem, these videos help alot, how hard was it to get the shift actuator out?
yes thats how i did it, I have not used the siphon method myself yet, but may in the future. it really is a good idea to disassemble and change it that way, but if your uncomfortable doing it that way the siphon method is the next best, and much better than not doing it at all.
not hard at all, reassembly is the tricky part. follow the instruction in the manual and my video. I have had no reverse issues since.
Just suck the oil out with a straw plastic
Instrument tubing
Good tip for more regular chain case oil changes, but definitely needs to come apart for thorough cleaning of the metallic sludge left inside.
That seems like alot of work just to change oil
It it is, there is shorter easier way but it doesn't get all the metalic crud out of the chain case.
Just go buy a engine oil extractor used in boating.. nothing comes apart