Mortise Basics: Marking, Chopping, Fitting
Vložit
- čas přidán 23. 02. 2021
- Don't struggle with your mortises. Learn the simple, traditional methods that get results.
More video and exclusive content: / rexkrueger
Videos and links below! (Scroll down)
Peter Follansbee's Channel: / mrfollansbee
Peter's Mortising Technique: • Joint Stool Layout & M...
Paul Seller's Channel: / paulsellerswoodwork
Pauls' Mortise Technique: • How to make a Mortise ...
Joshua Klein's Book: www.mortiseandtenonmag.com/pr...
(In which he discusses mortises).
Crown Mortise Chisel (affiliate): amzn.to/3axkXOm
(This is one of the only affordable mortise chisels currently in stock online. I cannot say how well it will last, although the quality appears to be fair for the price. If you can't find a 5/16 mortise chisel, a 3/8 is just as good. Pick one and forget about it.)
Become a member of this channel!
Get custom badges and emojis you can use during chats: / @rexkrueger
Sign up for Fabrication First, my FREE newsletter: eepurl.com/gRhEVT
Wood Work for Humans Tool List (affiliate):
Cutting
Gyokucho Ryoba Saw: amzn.to/2Z5Wmda
Dewalt Panel Saw: amzn.to/2HJqGmO
Suizan Dozuki Handsaw: amzn.to/3abRyXB
(Winner of the affordable dovetail-saw shootout.)
Spear and Jackson Tenon Saw: amzn.to/2zykhs6
(Needs tune-up to work well.)
Crown Tenon Saw: amzn.to/3l89Dut
(Works out of the box)
Carving Knife: amzn.to/2DkbsnM
Narex True Imperial Chisels: amzn.to/2EX4xls
(My favorite affordable new chisels.)
Blue-Handled Marples Chisels: amzn.to/2tVJARY
(I use these to make the DIY specialty planes, but I also like them for general work.)
Sharpening
Honing Guide: amzn.to/2TaJEZM
Norton Coarse/Fine Oil Stone: amzn.to/36seh2m
Natural Arkansas Fine Oil Stone: amzn.to/3irDQmq
Green buffing compound: amzn.to/2XuUBE2
Marking and Measuring
Stockman Knife: amzn.to/2Pp4bWP
(For marking and the built-in awl).
Speed Square: amzn.to/3gSi6jK
Stanley Marking Knife: amzn.to/2Ewrxo3
(Excellent, inexpensive marking knife.)
Blue Kreg measuring jig: amzn.to/2QTnKYd
Round-head Protractor: amzn.to/37fJ6oz
Drilling
Forstener Bits: amzn.to/3jpBgPl
Spade Bits: amzn.to/2U5kvML
Work-Holding
Orange F Clamps: amzn.to/2u3tp4X
Screw Clamp: amzn.to/3gCa5i8
Get my woodturning book: www.rexkrueger.com/book
Follow me on Instagram: @rexkrueger - Jak na to + styl
Where you work determines how you work. In your previous video about Chinese plane, I mentioned, traditionally, Chinese woorworking is done on a low bench. We step on the piece to saw, and we sit on the piece to chop mortise. It does not make sense to have a separate higher work surface to plane, so we fix the piece on low bench, and bend forward a lot to plane.
Now it's on the topic of chopping mortise, we traditionally do it differently. I am from the northen part of China, so I am only familiar with the northen style. We sit on the work piece on a low bench, roughly picnic bench height, maybe a little higher. Natually, you sit on the side that is farther away from marked mortise. If the portion you sit on is too short, put another piece of wood on top and sit on the second piece. We start with chisel flat side forward, bevel facing us, start around 1/4 to 1/3 from near side of the mortise, tilt chisel handle forward , ride on the flat side during chopping, strike a couple of times, move chisel back and tilt back and ride on bevel side and follow with a chop or two then move forward. The last bit is the same as your way, bevel towards the mortise, flat side perpenticular to the work piece, take several passes, and on the last chop on the marking line you only lever towards the bevel side to protect the clean edge on mortise. During the process, experienced woodworker will strke 1 or 2 times then rock the chisel back and forth a little then strike a couple of times and repeat.
Ref:
czcams.com/video/rMzC5BxAxUo/video.html
That is the traditional way. Now table height workbench is more and more popular, low bench is getting unpopular. I have been practicing hand cut mortise, and I do see the benifits from our traditional technique. When you sit on the piece and with chisel lean forward, the marking lines will give you reference to align chisel so it's not twisted, meaning the 2 sides are parallel with the marking lines. But I have a roubo style workbench. It is difficult to step on something to sit on the work piece on my workbench. I am planning to make a low sitting bench so I can cut mortise on that.
"But I do have a couple of suggestions..."
My son would rarely listen to me when I would try to show him how to do something, however, when I said, let me show you what works for me, he was much more receptive. Great approach.
Putting the work up against the plexiglass really made it much easier to see what's happening and thus understand what's going on.
especially when the wood split in that V cut
Peter Follansbee also has a video like this on his youtube channel you should check out, he learned the plexiglass approach from Roy Underhill, they're both hand tool wizards
Heads up to Mr Wright who taught me all this in 1969 to 1972 at school. I still have the three Marples firmer chisels I saved up and bought on leaving school. Always surprises younger chippies and other woodworkers have never seen anything except bevel edged chisels.
Rex! I really appreciate your approach of tackling some of the basics with an open mind and incorporating other woodworkers and then introducing them to us. I love finding about “new” woodworkers to add to my library of knowledge. Thanks for all you do!
I like Paul Sellers' technique mostly because he does his first pass starting from (near) one end of the mortise and chops all the way to the other in one direction, rather than starting in the middle and switching directions every cut. It seems less fiddly and more efficient, which ever chisel type you use.
The reason I like the Paul Sellers technique is that the body and handle of the chisel remain vertical for most of the chopping-- no need to get the angle juuust right for the bevel to be plumb, and no lateral forces on the work that might make it slide around.
Rex, I've seen a lot, almost all of your videos and this time I was getting a "Paul Sellers" felling in the way you were teaching and just a second after that you mentioned him in the video. You know what, your getting old!! lol But old is gold man! Thanks for all the effort you put in your videos, you are really creating a big, solid amount of knowledge and helping a bunch of people all around the world, you know that! Cheers from Brazil, take care!
I bought 2 mortising chisels. 1/2" and a 5/16" and that pretty much covers all needs for any typical stock. They make the job SO much easier and remove about 90-95% of error. Well worth the investment (which wasn't really all that much, as I recall).
Alright, I did my first mortise and tenon today an a bedframe I'm doing. Id like to credit rex for giving me the courage to take that risk and the knowledge I used to make bit happen.
Perfect timing as I'm about to start doing mortises for a coffee table for my graduated daughter ;) Thx.
How accurate is she graduated to? (Sorry terrible joke.)
I am starting to build an end table and just found your channel - really well done as I was worried about my tenon joints. And great job giving a shout-out to other's techniques and their channels if they have one. I like youtubers who take the high road. Thanks!
Most useful and informative video. You do justice to handtoolery! Thanks for your most informative videos👊👌
Great video, Rex. You cleared up a number of things that have been causing me problems.
That's what I was hoping for!
I love the way you give the credit back to Peter. That's an encouragement 🙂
You’re able to explain these concepts in a simple manner that gives me the confidence that I can perhaps actually tackle it. Much appreciated!
Mortice chisel is a big improvement for the beginner. I bought a 1/4 and 1/2 Mortice chisel and have never regretted it!
Depends on who your teacher is. If you're taught the correct technique from the beginning bench chisels are just as good.
Thanks for that video bud. I just love the way how some CZcamsrs like yourself are always giving praise to less fortunate CZcamsrs and trying to help them. Your a top man 👍😃.
Man, I've tried to convince me of a mortise chisel in the past but couldn't find it worth it. You've just changed my mind, and in an economical way (just one chisel). I'm facing exactly the problem of not registering properly, and my mortises are just ok.
Drilling out the waste has the great advantage of being so much quieter. For people that work in appartements, it removes the loudest part of hand tools woodworking
A completely fair point!
And that's why I always drill out the waste when I do mortises. Can't say I make very nice mortises that way, but that's probably lack of experience.
@@Kuro-ik3qn that's nothing practice can't cure
Predrilling works well, especially for larger mortises because it removes wood and creates clearance. BUT, you need to be very sure your drill bit as dead-on perpendicular to the stock as you can get it. Drifting can also be a real problem if you use power drills. Braces and bits work very well for predrilling mortises, if you want to do this, because they give you a lot of control and reduce the likelihood of drifting. In my experience, anyway.
Bottom line: If you end up with a nice snug, square, and true mortise, then you did it right -- however you did it. ✔
It’s definitely has a lot more use in timber framing, but I still always drill through holes with Jarrah or other native Australian hardwoods due them being a bit rough on the chisels I can afford to buy
There is a couple acres of woodland a half block from my house. It is a city wetland area and does flood occasionally. The neighbor's son did some fort building in this woodland and borrowed an old handsaw from me to cut up stuff for his fort. Interesting concept having a woodland shop.
One of THE BEST basic mortise videos that I have ever seen ... period! I really appreciate the plexiglass as it allows us to see the technique and it's effects simultaneously. Excellent work Rex!
I claim no credit for that idea, but I'm glad it helped!
I also saw Paul Sellers do this.
Clamping your work to a board in your vise is next level Rex. I wish I would have known these type of tricks earlier. I use this one along with a number of hand clamp tricks often. Hand clamps are the most underrated of all clamps.
All credit to Chris Schwarz on that one!
I don't have a huge shop with lots of tools. But, the reason I like watching these type videos is the simplicity. Chisel, mallet, plane, marking gauge......... That's it. And, it encourages me to use mortice and tenon joinery even though I don't have a fancy morticing drill. I use a table saw for most of my work but, knowing how to use the simple tools like this is always a skill I can use.
Whoa, look what happens at 10'19''-10'20''. Good teaching, seriously!
Thanks for recommending Peter Follansbee's channel. He's great.
Paul Sellers has a really good video also.
yes, I learnt with him but always struggle to be parallel , perhaps due to regular bevel edge chisel?
On the subject of the comments under the video.. I took your recommendation and have just got the Ryoba saw. Looking forward to giving it a good go!
Totally agree about drilling the waste. I did that recently on a build with 3" by 3/8" mortises. I was less than thrilled with the process. I found it much more likely for my chisel to wander. I then ended up having to remake one piece and cut the same mortise the old fashioned way, and it was much cleaner.
Very informative. Thank you! Also fan of Peters work and books
Great presentation, easily understood.
OMG great timing! I'm about to make a mortise and tenon outdoor bench. This is great. Thank you so much Rex.
Very interesting and great demonstration. As usual excellent advise and explanation.
I love the way you clearly describe your message, and demonstrate. Thanks
Really love your content Rex! You are a great teacher
Great video Rex
Thank you so much for the link to Peter Follanbee's channel.
Your vídeos are true inspirations! Love the way you make things approachable for us mortals 😂
Great video, you made that V mortice look so efficient & effective. I will have to try that one day soon
Great video!!! Learning from you a lot!!
I clamp a block to the surface of my work along the cut line that allows me to "register" the chisel against providing a straight and square reference when I start my cuts. I also stay away from the ends of the mortise like you did and actually finish the ends by paring with the mortise chisel using hand pressure rather than a mallet.
This video is just what I needed. Been practising with a large piece of equipment with a powerdrill incorperated made by a friend of mine. Will go and practise this technique in stead. Thank you Rex!
Good video. I'm now retired so I can go back to my hand tools which is what I started with many years ago. Slow but satisfying. I built a woodworking business from scratch. To be competitive required significant investment in both equipment and training. We specialized in doing curved work because it was more challenging and also less competitive. The shop ended up mostly CNC & industrial level machines. It required skilled people but they never needed to hand cut a mortice. If you enjoy woodworking, keep it a hobby. It will remain enjoyable. That doesn't mean you have to hand cut everything, nothing wrong with power tools. Be safe!
Another great video. Thank you so much for introducing me to Peter Follansbee's channel. I get all giddy when someone uses a froe. I imagine myself someday splitting guitar tops and backs from log sections. I've got a ways to go.
Rex, thank you for the call out for Peter Follansbee. He is one of our true masters. His appearances on the Woodwright's shop with Roy Underhill are well worth searching out. Snipe hinges were a revelation. His mortise technique is a good one, and seemed fairly easy to master - for me, at any rate!
Really great demonstration, thanks so much!
Thank you. This had few things I haven't seen in other videos. Including the 5/16" chisel as a stand in for both 3/8" and 1/4" mortise chisels and pairing it with a dedicated gauge.
Rex, thank you for this and all your videos. You have been a great inspiration for me. And, as I am just beginning to move from rough cheap-construction quality work, and don't have a shop as such, yet, your channel has been a great help.
Enough sap, back to the pine $30 bench.
Watch Paul Sellers video about chopping mortices. With his technique you can cut a mortice really fast. You might find that you'll be faster without pre drilling your mortices after watching his video and trying his method.
Thanks for great info as usual, hope you dont mind me mentioning ,there is yet another chap who knows tips for morticing : Bill Carter the plane maker from the Shires of England
Bad ass video with clear and concise instructions. Subbed
Love cutting mortises! This is a great video
Seriously have watched a dozen videos today from you. Thank you forwhat you do
Thank YOU for bumping up my numbers!
great information as always! thanks
This was extremely timely, thanks! Just about to start my first project that needs mortises!
Glad I could help!
Thanks a LOT, Rex! Fantastic tips! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Awesome video rex!!! Thanks
My pleasure!
Top work there Rex thanks, personally I prefer to lose as much waste as I can with a brace or drill bit but love your approach, keep em coming, stay safe, thanks from the UK
Rex you rock the party
Teach me more rex. Last two weeks I've been learning what usually would be an overload, but I've been comprehending all I've heard of financial/entrepreneurship in a personal and national manner, all meanwhile building the cheapest wardrobe possible. I don't have a bench, clamps, or drill. I have access to grandpas drill but I'm sticking to my guns with traditional wood working roots, being cheap as dirt. Not borrowing my grandpas power tools is a pride issue😂plus I've already borrowed a saw, finishing nails, and he threw in a estwing tack hammer for good luck. I've got what seems to be a perfectly f***in manageable tool collection but it seems impossible with just chisels+hammer, common 2.5 nails+ finish nails, woodglue, japanese saw, miter saw and box, sandpaper, measuring tools, and a no. 4. Plane. I'm pretty sure I'm just missing a vice and therefore a bench. My setup is a concrete wall with wood posts, one work area is up around my sternum and the other around waist area, the two ideal workbench/table heights and both have 4x4s posts to plane against) I can plane and make mortise and tenon joints fine, but I guess I need the vise to make the other joints accurately such as dovetails. I'm surprised at what able to do with 80$ tho, after a year and a half of watching you and dabbling in wood by wright and Paul sellers. I'm obviously glad to see interactions and collaborations by you guys! Love what you do rex and you have me on track to save 1000$ bucks over two years.
thanks, and thanks for the Peter F referral. He was great on the Woodwright's Shop
Thanks again Rex.
This is where hand tools excel. Now if wood wasn't selling at a million dollars a board foot right now 🤦🏻♂️.
@@bierbarrel true,but that's assuming one has acreage with timber. That's a distant dream for me. 2020 was the year of woodworking hobby for sure, wish I had tried to get going in 2018, all I have right now is a table saw. Most of the other tools are either sold out, or really expensive. I'm waiting for everybody to drop the hobby in a few years and pick up in the used market, which I hope will be flooded with goodies.
Get a few saws and axes and put an ad for cheap af tree removal, take any straight grain lumber you get and saw it either by hand or with a chainsaw! Eventually your only cost for wood is labour!
I have six mature pine trees. Free! Just safely cut them down and haul them away. I am a paralyzed veteran or I'd bring them down myself.
@@bierbarrel said
I literally just traded a guy with a wood mill a truck for lumber... He's trying to get out of the business so he's got bunches of rough cut lumber drying that he wants to get rid of, and I have a derelict suburban that I want gone...
Great video! Paul Sellars has a similar video with plexiglass too.
Here's some unasked advice from a beginner. Feel free to correct me, cunningham's law and all.
For my roubo workbench I made quite a few mortices and a sliding deadman (1.2 meter mortice) in beech, it was great practice. I found that standing at the end of the mortice so you see along the mortice was really helpful getting things square. I used a normal chisel and that worked fine. I started at end of mortice and worked to the other side, always keeping bevel up. This makes a diagonal cut. I started about 5mm from my line and then later, after the mortice was mostly cut, I returned to the start and angled the chisel so that the bevel up becomes bevel down to get a vertical line. Then I rotate the chisel so that I can cut away the last 5mm crisp on the line.
As for your tenons. I only saw the shoulders directly on the line and then use a chisel to prevent long rip sawing. Be careful when using a chisel that you get some issues with grain direction, one side will usually go away from the line, but the other will go towards the line. Using the chisel to pop those pieces of wood out is amazing. It's also really handy because you'll get your wedges if you're making a tenon for a wedged dovetail.
Peter Follansbee's channel has some great content so I'm glad you are encouraging your subs to sub his channel too. He really deserves to be better known. He's a real craftsman.👍😁
Fantastic info! Thank you. 👍
That was helpful to a newbie like me. The clearance is something to be aware of. Thanks!
Thanks for the knowledge, Rex !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I've never been satisfied with my hand cut mortices, so I use a plunge router. This is the first video I've seen that explains how a registered chisel works.
I think I'm going to get one and try it!
Thanks! Nice recaling !
Good explanation, thanks. I started following Paul Sellers but I've done a lot better after buying small set of Narex mortice chisels (which, by the way, are well worth buying despite harsh criticism from Rob Cosman -- whose work I also admire.) True, the Narex don't work right out of the box but it really doesn't take much work to get them working superbly. Regarding going off one's line, I've found that I get a lot more accuracy if I make my first mallet strikes VERY light -- just taps. This gets the chisel engaged in the wood on the line so it's much less likely to twist off the line when you start to thwack. That little tip on its own has done more than anything else to improve my morticing.
Very helpful!
Rex,
I just read your Gage article in Quercus.👍 Liked the design of the tool.Looked at eBay but oh well, and not a great supply down here in San Diego area. Someday.
Great video as always! As a beginner I love those basics and fundamentals tutorials, I recently purchased a mortise chisel and was wondering if I should lap the sides flat as well, it is a Narex Basic 8mm Mortising Chisel…
I’m going to try your method.
That plexiglass mortising was an amazing reference.
I have an odd mortise chisel. It is 1/4" wide, with a blade 8" long that is gently curved it's full length, making the back of the chisel convex, and the front side concave. The front side of the chisel also has a peaked shape (two approximately 60 degree beveled edges meeting at a peak, the full 8". It has a laminated back, it is a socket type with the brand of James Swan.
Good stuff. Thanks!
Ill be checking out peters video 👍
Rob Cosman is always worth studying for hand tool woodworking, including mortice and tenon joints.
I take your word for it, Rex! :^D Great video, thanks!
Another help to start getting things plumb is to add a fence for your chisel to register to. I have seen that in some videos about deep mortise specially, when getting out of line would be a big issue.
It's worth noting that Paul Sellers basically proved the inferiority of a mortise chisel in a direct comparison. Paul is a 50-year master of both tools, and the results and speed are clearly better with a standard chisel. The only reason to not use a standard beveled-edge chisel is if you really just can't get good results after trying and trying and trying, which is Rex's situation and the fate of many. If you can't get your hands to do what you want them to do with consistency, a mortise chisel may be necessary. Otherwise, if you start out with Paul's method, you can keep increasing your skill and theoretically be better and faster than you ever could be when using a mortise chisel.
It's also worth noting that Paul has put out a new video on this subject, demonstrating that a *_mortise guide_* can be just as effective for beginners, or the less graceful among us, as using a mortise chisel for registration, further negating nearly any need for a mortise chisel. His new video is called "3 Chisel Mortise Method | Paul Sellers".
The reason that a standard chisel beats the mortise chisel is simple: it's thinner. It occupies less space in the mortise and allows deeper, more drastic cuts, moving more wood with each strike. The comparison is obvious and unambiguous. The mortise chisel should only be used if you're unable to make straight cuts with a standard chisel, which is not a problem everyone shares.
Thanks!
Well done Rex, any future video about making a mortise chisel? I made one (very cheap ) a few months ago from a 60 hrc piece of steel (available on ebay for a few dollars).
The mortise is the thing stopping me from using this joint. Finding a quick and consistent technique has escaped me for a long time. I’ve watched Paul Sellers make it look easy, but I’m thinking it’s time for a mortising chisel.
I bought you work bench bundle and completed most of the bench still needs flattening and a vice but it was a really fun build
I appreciate you discussing additional methods! I'd love to continue to see that in future videos. Given that mortise and tenon joinery is cross grain, why isn't it severely affected by wood movement?
Because the pieces of wood are narrow; that makes the movement too small to matter. (Good question!)
Once I learnt how to use a mortice chisel I stoped drilling out mortices for the most part. There will always be a situation where you will just have to drill out the waste and times when I use a bevelled chisel to smooth the sides of the mortice. The idea of having a fixed mortice gauge was something that just didn't occur to me.
It might be interesting to scribe the chisle with typical mortis length. Distance from the handle end toward the middle. As with skinny and fat thirds for width you would have one tool for both length and width measurements.
You have mentioned oiling metal planes in a couple videos, Do you having a video explaining this?
Isn’t 5/16 about a third of 1 inch stock? Not 3/4? Because 3*5/16 is 15/16
Edit: Nevermind I’m just dumb and didn’t let you finish talking, whoops
15/16 it is the most you'd usually get when buying "one inch lumber".
I like having an oval handle because it helps keep the chisel edge perpendicular to the mortise sides. You can feel when it's straight, and feel if the edge twists when chopping, like if you hit some weird grain. I also like to sharpen at 35 degrees for a better edge life, easy to do with a dedicated mortise chisel but 35 is kind of steep for a bench chisel.
as a hand tool and weapon enthusiast i like to believe that round is the worst shape for any handle, so i'm with you on that one.
Love the clamp suggestion, makes way too much sense
You should also try Paul Sellers mortise fence. Very helpful for beginners. Also give Paul Sellers poor mans guage a try, just a block of wood and two screws. Can't be any simpler.
Someone bought up all the decent-priced new mortising chisels in the 5/8 (8mm size) :( . And all the decent-priced lumber. Not to mention all the vintage planes. LOL.
I could use a regular 8mm chisel, but I already tried mortising with one before, and it wasn't pretty. Mortising chisel may not be a magic bullet, but I'd still like to try one.
At least I'll be in a state soon to go in-person in search of vintage tools soon.
Rex, you should keep your mortice chisel vertical every time you strike it. You are actually using it the wrong way around. Paul Sellers gives a good demonstration of the correct technique.
He cited where he for the technique he’s using from at the end of the video
I agree. Paul Sellers technique seems to be the fastest. You can really remove a lot of wood quickly with his technique. I can't imagine a faster way to cut a mortice by hand. I was surprised to see that Rex didn't use that technique. Constantly turning the chisel wastes a lot of time. Pauls method doesn't have that problem.
@@stauffap It was always taught like that for a reason: you don't have to keep turning the chisel around. Watch old videos of craftsmen at work and they most certainly don't do it Rex' way.
Haven't really seen it in videos but I like to use a screwdriver to clear everything out of a mortise instead of a smaller chisel. Don't see much reason is risking ruining an edge when it works just as well.
I'm working on training some termites to eat out my mortices for me 🤣
Seriously though mortices are the area that I struggle the most with so big thanks.
Rex. I wonder if you can make a video about how to make a kitchen sink and water proof. Thanks! of course affordable
the bamboo sinks are $500 +
Good timing, I'm planning on doing the mortise and tennon joints for my shaker side table project soon, got a pig sticker ready for it, just waiting for my kebiki marking gauge
I was wondering though Rex, how do I know what kind of hammer to use? I have a thor hammer and a wooden mallet, and recently I barely ever use the mallet due to the precision i feel I get with the thor hammer, I'd love to see a video on hammer choice, I really want to get a Japanese genno hammer but unsure about using metal hammers on woodwork since Paul Sellers mentioned using a thors hammer to reduce damage
Most Western chisels are NOT made for a metal hammer of any kind. Of course the Thor is a good choice.
Rex was in a competition against other fine woodworkers and they judged it on two criteria, workmanship and longest locks, called The Mortise and the Hair. He aced the mortise...