Honda Fit (2007-2013) VTEC (or VVT) Solenoid Replacement
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- čas přidán 9. 09. 2024
- 4/3/18 Update: Replacement fixed the problem! 2 cold mornings, no noise.
My car has experienced cold-start "grinding" noises. In my research, this is the tell-tale sign of a failing VTEC solenoid, or variable valve timing solenoid. Fortunately, the replacement part is relatively inexpensive (~$125) and very easy to replace in the Fit.
URL for good grinding example: • Video
Parts List:
VVT Solenoid (Rock Auto): www.rockauto.c...
Tool List:
10 mm socket
3/8" drive ratchet
3/8" drive extensions (3" and 6")
That's it. An easy replacement that took me about an hour to complete from beginning to end. Most recommend an oil change after replacing the VTEC solenoid (in some cases an oil change fixes the problem if your oil is REALLY old) and I did this as well and that was included in my one hour time.
I don't really do much work to my car, but couldn't spend the $235 they wanted at the auto parts store for this part. I also didn't want to spend the close to $300 for labor that they'd probably want at the dealer with an inflated part price so... I want to say thank you for your video, it was very helpful! My 2007 Honda Fit runs great now. I had to take the air filter out, which was interesting. But for those of you who need some encouragement to just do this yourself, it is totally doable if you have a couple hours to spare. I couldn't figure out how to buy the one from RockAuto, but I found a link to an Amazon part from a different video, made by Dorman for $85. I think we saved easily $500. 250 bucks an hour isn't bad at all! Thanks again for your helpful instructions.
Good deal. That was the whole point of the video. Even in modern cars, there are things you can do yourself and save serious money. My local PepBoys charges $150 an hour(!) to do work. Crazy. Good job and congratulations!
This is why I love CZcams videos. They help me to decide which jobs are above my pay grade. I've saved thousands of dollars over the years on home and auto repairs by doing this.
This job is not that hard and I recommend using the money saved on labor and spending it on Genuine Honda OEM parts. Honda's don't like aftermarket parts which usually last less than a year.
It's also worth the money to buy good tools. In this case, I would use 3/8" drive socket wrenches and sockets to remove the bolts and 1/4" drive ones to install them. Then use a 1/4" drive TORQUE wrench for installing the bolts to the 104 INCH-lbs torque setting required. As he said in the video, do NOT overtighten anything in an aluminum engine.
@@boomerguy9935 Oh man, You are so right about Hondas liking OEM parts. while this VTech solenoid still works just fine, I learned the hard way with an EGR valve. And yes, torque wrenches are the way to go... Absolutely!
In case you’re curious, Keihin has made many of the best carburetors for motorcycles for decades. They’re really good stuff.
Didn't know that. Thanks!
The O-ring gasket with filter will eventually leak and it can be replaced by itself. Just remove the VTEC assembly for access to it. The VTEC assembly will last much longer than the gasket. I would not replace the assembly until it fails. The normal symptoms are a code along with the engine bucking when the car starts to accelerate and then goes into "limp mode", so you can get back home....very slowly.
Thanks!
I'm about to order this for my mom's Fit! I was driving it s couple days ago and right before the V tech kicked in the car started jerking back! And most of the power was lost. Is it dangerous to drive the car like this? I'm trying to find it online that ships from the USA so I don't have to wait a month for it to arrive.
From what I've read, the best way to keep the o-ring/filter in good shape is to change the oil regularly and use premium full synthetic. I've replaced these in my old Accord and Element (same engine) with well over 120K miles on each and both were still in good shape. @@Gone_Rogue300
Hey Chris, my wife has an 08 Fit Sport and it threw a code P2647 when we did a scan for the check engine light. She had no issues (we just topped off the oil after reading it could be low oil and she was a little low on oil), but one day she couldn't rev above 4k rpms. She brought the car home and we switched cars, I took it out for a test drive and the check engine light was off and it had no problem revving above 4k. One week later (today as a matter of fact), I was driving her car home from work (no issues to work) and the check engine light came on again and it wouldn't go above 4k rpm. I went to a parking lot, shut the car off for a few minutes, turned it back on and let it idle for a few more minutes, and while in park, I stepped on the gas and it had no problem going above 4k rpm, it sounded and felt fine. I want to fix this issue so she has a reliable car, but should I replace the solenoid or just get the rocker arm switch sensor? What do you think?
Wow, that's a good one. I'm not a trained mechanic, especially for the newer stuff. That code does deal with the rocker arm solenoid and usually happens in cars with VVT. I don't think failure of the VVT solenoid (i.e., it stops actuating) would limit engine RPM, but the rocker arm solenoid might if the computer uses it to sense engine speed. It may limit speed if it doesn't like what it sees (limp mode). I did some forum research and it seems this is the case. Most of the posts I read said it comes and goes like your is. Some replaced the rocker arm solenoid and that fixed it. P2646 seems to be more related to the VVT solenoid (I never got that code). Here's a video I found (I didn't watch it): czcams.com/video/wWHFApnR2D8/video.html. I'm not making a recommendation either way, though, because I'm really not qualified and don't want to point you in the wrong direction.
@@roundtailrestoration Thanks for replying Chris! I started the engine this morning to let it idle, and the check engine light was on. I idled it for about 3-4 mins, turned it off and on again, check engine light was gone and no issue driving to work. It gets to the mid 40s here at night, so I'm not sure what the problem is, but I bought the whole solenoid and a filter. I'll try the filter first cause it was $2, and if that doesn't fix it, I'll just replace the solenoid. The solenoid comes with the sensor, and is not that much more than the sensor itself, so hopefully it fixes it. I'll update the comment when I replace the parts.
@@arleatham Good luck!
@@arleatham if the vvt fails it can put the car in limp mode which would limit you to 4K rpms I’d start there I just ordered one for my fit off rock auto for 50$
@@arleatham hey, did you get the problem resolved? My wife’s car limp’d out on me.😂
Great video. Thank You so much.
Glad it was helpful!
chris, z car had steel wheels with hub caps from the factory. Lots of dealers put on aluminum wheels(aftermarket) like those. also there is a choke lever located on console,in case you didnt know. Sorry but I worked on these new at a dealer in NJ. Good job explaining your Honda job. I just closed my shop of 28 yrs working on asian and British stuff
Thanks, Steve. I did figure the choke out, but the ran out of gas . Fun drive. Felt peppier than my 78 280Z from high school, but maybe it was the weight difference (and the 30+ year time span).
My 2004 Honda fit has to idle for approximately 15 minutes before it's able to engage in drive.... Especially when it's cold. When you put it in D it starts to blink after a few seconds. Could this be caused by a faulty solenoid valve?
I don't believe so, no. That should be strictly having to do with the motor and should not prevent the transmission working at all, nor should it prevent engaging drive. I'm not sure what your problem could be, I'm sorry. Good luck!
When my Honda fit blink ' D' I added CVT fluid and it was ok. Gearbox fluid running low or old needs to be changed
I just performed this VVT Actuator replacement. This was not the solution to the grinding noise. My Honda Fit still makes the grinding noise. It most likely is the starter.
Sorry to hear that, Bruce. Starters are brutally mechanical and have been around since the inception of the automobile. I say that because I would be surprised if it really was the starter since it's such a mature design, no matter the application. I'm not saying that the VVT was your problem, but I doubt the starter is. But, maybe so...good luck!
Help. Has anyone solved this p2646 issue ? I see also that there is a leak around my engine. I recently did a valve adjustment for my 08 with a new cover gasket. Then 3 days later I’ve got that same code. Could it be possible that dirt got into the engine while I was doing the valve adjustment? 168k miles on my car.
I don't have any experience with that code, personally. Sorry I can't help. Maybe someone here can? Good luck!
My fit has 177K and I never replaced this. I have a scratchy sound in my motor, almost like a bad bearing but I driven the car like that for almost 2 years
If you do replace it, good luck. And if it's been 2 years, it doesn't appear to be too bad. Good luck!
Also, I only ever had the sound during startup, especially on cold mornings. It was never present once the car was running. If you're getting the sound during normal running, you've got different symptoms.
Chris Fisher I had the grinding while starting on cold weather but it was the starter, now if it’s really cold out, it happens again
Check your alternator, put a screwdriver up to it, and your ear on the end of the handle. Just put a new alternator on today and that bearing type noise is gone.
@@JacobTechShit when I took the belt off tho I still had the sound. I traded that car in and got an HRV now
Would the vtec solenoid be in the same location for a 08 Honda Fit stick shift ? My mechanic told me to change this part out bc my car had been choking on me
Hi, Carlos. Yes, it should be in the same spot. Same motor, regardless of transmission. Good luck!
Many thanks you.
Thanks, Carlos. Hope it works out!
Hi chris, had an error code on a honda civic 2014 140bhp 1.8 petrol of 'P2649' which suggests oil control solenoid has high voltage or is faulty. HOWEVER my mechanic did a few tests and we located a misfire to cylinder 3 that moved to cylinder 2 when the fuel injector was swapped to cylinder 2.
That faulty injector was moved to cylinder 1 and now 2 cylinders arent firing meaning '2 injectors' have now gone.
Problem is these injectors are impossible to get hold of and arent cheap, is it possible this P2649 code which relates to the oil control solenoid isent correct and 2 injectors have managed to go one after another? Would p2649 cause injectors to not fire in certain cylinders?
The car is in limp mode.
In my minimal research, no. Code P2649 has to do with a rocker arm actuator and it's relationship to the VVT solenoid, like you mentioned. I think your injector failure is unrelated. Limp mode, however, I think is driven by the code you have. I never got the car into limp mode, but I never spit a code on my failure, either. I think you might have two separate problems.
You say 2007 in the title, but then you say 2009 in the video.
Hi Jimmy. My car is a 2009, but to the best of my knowledge (and the Hayne's manual I have for it), it's the same for the 2007 through 2013 model years, so if you car falls in that range, it should be the same procedure and part.
Excellent
Thanks!
Hi Chris, for a 2009 Honda Fit Sport, do you think I should just replace the VVT solenoid, and/or the Starter Motor?
I thought it was the starter motor at first. Research led to the possibility of the vvt. Since that was a lot cheaper and easier, I did that first. Lucky, but I'd probably do the same again.
@@roundtailrestoration what do you think about the TRQ Variable Valve Timing Solenoid? It's being sold on Amazon for about $49.
I don't know. I got mine from Rock Auto if I remember correctly and it was OEM. But, I've bought other parts from Amazon and haven't had any issues with any of them.
And hell, with Amazon's return policy, you might be able to try it and if it doesn't fix it, return it.
My wife's 2008 fit has started the few sec cold start grind and Ive read it can be the solenoid or the cam gear sprocket pin is failing how can I figure out which one it is after first start of day car runs great no noise at all
Hi, Joshua. No, sorry, I don't have any ideas on how to figure out which it is. My guess is that the cam work would be $$$ while a new VVT solenoid is relatively inexpensive. Maybe take a chance and replace that and you might get lucky?
Thank you!!!............Kudos!!!............Z
You're welcome. Hope it works out for you!
Could this be why my moms honda fit is jerking back snd forth. Im getting a map sensoe code on my scanning tool! When i plug and unplug the map sensor there's no difference on the idle..
I didn't experience any bad running symptoms like you explain. But, I believe a MAP sensor going bad may cause your symptoms, but not necessarily at idle. I think I would trust your code. I can't tell you, tho, the difficulty in replacing the sensor yourself.
@@roundtailrestoration Whar i find off is, when I Disconnect the map sensor, there is no change in the title of the vehicle. When I plug it back in still no change, but I am getting a map What is scanned using my scanning tool. I think I’m going to check the wires in the multimeter as well. For some reason when I accelerate the gas pedal, the Vtec kicks in But the car jerks back-and-forth like it has a restriction.
I’m going to run some more test and see if I can get to the bottom of the problem, if I cannot find it I will send a card to an electrical specialist shop and see if they can figure it out. I just want the car and greet for my mother, I recently had a new engine installed! Not new, but with low miles.
@@roundtailrestoration I have a question, if I run the car even with that cold that is stating the VTEC Solonoid rocker
Arm error Can I caused damage to the car if I drive it around town for the time being until I get this fixed.
@@Gone_Rogue300 I drove the car for a while with the VTEC solenoid messed up and I didn't have any problems that I noticed. With you MAP sensor code, though, I'm not sure (I didn't have any codes). You might be taking a risk. I'm sorry, but I don't know enough to give you a good answer. Maybe look for a video on testing a MAP sensor? Probably one out there in general, if not for the Fit specifically. Sorry, but good luck!!
@@roundtailrestoration I checked the obd again and the solidified code is gone. But the map sensor is still on, on attempted to drive the car today and she shut off when I was about to get into traffic! I put it on park started her up and took off.
I put over 3k into this Fit for my mom, just had a low milage engine installed in n her now I'm gonna have to spend more money on the car to get it right! Cuz it's not in perfect driving shape for my mom! I don't want her getting hurt out there.
I love this little car! It's adorable! Just trying to get it right for my mom! I'll let her use my Lexus IS300 until I get her Fit right for her!
Thank you for your advice! Appreciate you.
Hi Chris awesome video thanks, I have the same noise same car same engine, but the current VTT I have installed (KEIHIN) does not have the second wiring you connected in the video (8:41), it has a screw I think. could be a different type of VTT sensor? thanks mate
The one installed that was original to the motor? Yes, I'd say they're different. What year is your car? Odd that they would be different within the same model production run.
@@roundtailrestoration I believe it is original, I can't find any loose connector, or maybe it was a cheap modification from the last owner. The car is a honda fit 2010. I could be sent you a pic, just for info.
@@machine-1086 That's odd. The ones I'm finding for sale online, like you know, all have two connectors. I'm not sure what to tell you, but I'd probably put the old one back in because I'd be afraid the car may not run properly or give a check engine light if it's not fully communicating with the solenoid.
What is the problem when vtec selenoid need to service or.....?
I'm not sure what happens that caused it to fail, but I don't think you can service it, only replace it.
@Keltic Ride Ah, sorry. It was just the grinding noise. I did some research and this was the most predominant reason, so I went with it. Thank you, Keltic Ride!
I have a stick shift 08 Fit would it be in the same location ? My car has been choking a little I wanted to change to vtec solenoid
Yes, in think it would be in the same place. The engine should be the same so it would be in same spot. It's easy to identify so you should be able to see it clearly in the same spot as mine. Good luck!
Thank you very much for all...I knowing it now.
Can I ask you how many miles you have in the car when solenoid fail? my son car is 55K and so far the transmission solenoid fail but not the VVT
It was more than that, but not much. Maybe 65-70k. In my general research, a lot of the Honda line experienced similar problems (Accords, mostly) and it seemed to be a lower mileage failure (around what you and I experienced).
@@roundtailrestoration thank you Chris
Doesn't the v tec solenoid stay inactive until you reach a certain RPM? People are telling me you shouldn't hear this grind when the engine starts. Im getting a grind and trying to take preventive action
It may not be active, but it still may be energized. I'm not 100% positive, but I understood that when the car was first turned on, the solenoid was powered up and positioned itself, which caused the grinding noise. Anecdotally, it did it before I replaced it and didn't after I did, but I frankly don't really understand how the thing works. Sorry I can't be more specific.
@@roundtailrestoration no worries, thanks for responding!
@@TheLivingPlaneTEVO no problem. Good luck!
Is it the same with a 2004 model?
Hi Tumelo. No, I don't think the engines are the same. Looking at pictures of the component, they are different. But, that's not to say that you might not be able to fix your problem by replacing your VVT solenoid...but you would be taking your chances as far as I'm concerned. Good luck!
How much was the new one?
I think they were about $150 each. Been a while. I got them from Rock Auto. Think I put the link in the description
Yeah, it was about $135, shipped. I just checked my order history. Very easy to replace. I think it took me less than an hour.
I've owned a bunch of Honda's since my first one in 1991. My experience has been that OEM Original Honda parts will last far longer than the aftermarket ones. If you can afford it, spend the money one time on the OEM part and not several times on the aftermarket parts. This applies to all specific engine parts. Other parts such as brakes, oil filters or whatever, will work just fine.