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In case you’re curious, Keihin has made many of the best carburetors for motorcycles for decades. They’re really good stuff.

Wow 😱 you’re doing it completely wrong I hope you’ve learned from the comments on here and redone it correctly 🙏🏻😢😢

Also cut the clutch shaft out of our trans back when we replaced the clutch in like 2011. Someone welded the fork to the shaft! Looking forward to seeing more of your transmission rebuild!

Curious if the TR3 and TR4 gearboxes are the same. Did you consider using one of the five speeds?

Looking good!!

I clean mine every oil change. 237000 miles. On it. Plus I took the screen's off so they don't plug up. Or end up blocking it oil flow

A pleasure riding along!! Thank you

Great video and a timesaver, I replaced this valve in less than an hour!

Great video. Short and succinct. Helpful cues about potential trouble spots, like the hard-to-remove plastic prong covers. It was good to know they were just tight, there was nothing holding them on. Good editing, too, to cut out unnecessary sections of struggling with screws or whatever. Helped me get the job done. Much appreciated.

Great information. My engine came in a box so this will help with identification. You didn’t mention that beautiful rocker shaft.

Good progress. If you rebuild an engine you’ll encounter all of the problems you face. Especially an old engine that has been touched by any number of people. Your trials and solutions are instructive. In 1968 I bought my first car, a TR4, and proceeded to change all fluids and filters. Waited my turn for the lift at the post auto center, completed the work, fired it up and promptly dumped what seemed like a gallon of oil on the floor. The sergeant in charge went absolutely ballistic. I had to vacate the lift after cleaning up the floor. Pushed car into an open bay and fixed the misaligned canister filter. Spin on gets my vote.

Hey Chris, Great drive video with Dorothy ... can you shave your in car video set up please, I need to do one with my TR250 Jolene, it's exactly what I'd like to do as well.. Thank you

the extra hole in the carb back is so the piston goes up and down with the vacuum. if you block it the your carbs wont work correctly people do this by fitting the front carb gaskets on the air filter side of the carb seen it done too many times Your engine should be running temp when you compression test!

Hi Chris, After spending 348 days getting my car back on the road after a 12-year lay-up, I got to the local car show, and on the way home, 200 yards from my front door, the MSD HVC-II Coil and the MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition box both failed. It took me 8 more weeks to determine exactly what had failed. I removed the failed components and now have the Mallory Distributor, the Pertronix HEI switch, and a 3-Ohm Pertronix Coil. The ignition now works perfectly again. I won't be fitting any more MSD components, that was a waste of $1,000. They failed only because of age, not vibration, not heat, and not use, (only covered 22k miles). I'm less annoyed at the waste of money than I am losing 2 months of Summer driving! I'm getting older and don't know how many more Summers I have left!

Thanks for the ride Chris. I need to get a camera like yours, then i'll record a trip aroud where i live.

On my way to Westerly the other day I crossed the Gold Star bridge and it reminded me of your exploits/fear of crossing it to go to a car show in a recent video. Nice area to drive after you get off I-95

Take care not to loose your cap!

I love an Ice Cream run. Don't you love the turning radius, makes u-turns easy. You are becoming more confident in her reliability. Oh that sticking choke.....you should just get rid of her....I'll thank her off your hands LOL Thanks Great Video. Thanks for sharing.

Nice country drive. Love the scenery and the last important stop 😊. My wife and I went for a drive in the GT6 the other day. She said she enjoys getting looks and remarks from people.

One way to test the drive line.

Thanks for the drive Chris, Dorothy seems to be in good running order, enjoy.

Nice day for a drive. Seems pretty well sorted Chris.

Instructive video. Really liked the ring compressor. Can you grind the end of the rod to get the weights the same. I thought they put an extra pad of metal there for that purpose.

You're going to have to mount the shifter assembly with the gear shift lever installed to something stationary. Make a mount for the scale so it too is stationary. Then just shift through the gears, with the scale attached to the desired gear. You should be able to test reverse that way... You'll be pulling the hook away from the scale instead of the scale away from the hook.

Very informative thank you Chris.

Nice work

Hi Chris, the distributor offset is shown in the workshop manual page 1.131, have fun rebuilding the engine.

One step closer, Chris! 👍 It was sone time ago, but I am trying to recall how I fitted the alternator in my TR4... AFAIK, no one was making conversion kits at the time. I think I used a single, really long bolt at the bottom, passing through the tab on the alternator, a spacer, the front engine plate, the front arm of the mounting bracket, another sleeve or spacer, the rear tab on the alternator, and the rear arm of the mounting bracket. That way there is only that one long bolt with a nylock nut at the rear to tighten. But, this involved modifications, so isn't "reversible", if that's a concern. I either modified the original spacer at the front into an unthreaded sleeve, or made a sleeve out of something. I also made a long sleeve to fit inside the mounting bracket. I might have used a washer or two at the front to get the belt to align. At the top, I used the original adjusting bracket. I had to heat it up and bend it a bit to get it to align properly with the tab on the alternator. The only problem I can remember encountering was something on the particular alternator I was using (a GM, single wire, dont recall the model)... I think I had to trim a little off the lower, rear mounting tab to narrow the mounting surfaces a little. Thinking about it now, I suppose I could have instead just made a slightly wider bracket. Live and learn! It doesnt shown it all, but there is an old photo in the gallery here: triumphowners.com/to-car/tr4-14/

Hi Chris, It would appear that for some reason your engine has notch cut into the engine front plate, (presumably when the welded bracket was installed?) On my 4A engine the threaded stub on the pedestal passes through a correctly sized hole in both the front plate and the bracket. Without the front plate acting as a spacer, your alternator will be set rearwards equivalent to the thickness of the front plate... can't tell if this would be sufficient to throw your three pullies out of line. If I remember correctly, the hole in my plate had opened out and the plate thinned over the years... I assume because the pedestal had worked loose with consequent rubbing and wear. I think I added some weld to bring the front plate back to original thickness and closed the hole to the correct size. I suppose you could fit a thick washer to make up for the missing metal... personally I would MIG this in place, while ensuring correct alignment with the bracket, but not welding the two together. When I was rebuilding my engine, an experienced TR owner advised me to lock-wire the three hex screws that hold the dynamo bracket to the block. They said that if the screws came out, then there would be a loss of engine oil. I did not evaluate or question the validity of this, as they kindly gave me pre-drilled hex-headed screws, so no problem. In addition I used a sealing type of Loctite to ensure there was no path for oil seepage past the threads. That seems a sensible precaution, even if fitting lock wire is a something that is not really necessary for a typical road-use car.

Thanks Chris... one step at a time

What would be the disadvantage of just running a generator, do they not charge as well? I've never had a car old enough to have a generator.

Hey Chris! So I am going to do a similar conversion on Arya, but I think I might do it without a kit. Considering the issues you had with this kit do you feel that you could have done it better, and cheaper by making your own fit kit?

Hi Chris, what is the # on that WIX oil filter?, Thanks

Great description of the kit install and overcoming the issues. Does the kit identify the alternator so that you can purchase a replacement in the future if necessary, or would you have to go back to the source of the kit for a replacement?

If only the instructions were in English..."The lower front of the rear"? What?

My goodness, not a ringing endorsement for this kit. Puts new meaning to - some assembly required. Thanks for the video. It makes it easier for the next guy. Moss should link it in their instructions.

THANK YOU for posting this!!!

Thanks so much!

That is a good lesson learned. I have been keeping that in the back of my mind on my build that I’ll have to re-torque everything after a while. How did you get those nuts torqued down to the proper spec? I couldn’t get a socket on them, and had to use a box wrench.

That's a lesson learned for all of us don't trust those lock nuts check them regularly,just going to check mine, thanks Chris Kev 🇬🇧👍👍

Hey Chris! My car came with 2 seats but one is missing the seat basket - do you have a spare? i'd be willing to purchase if so.

Glad it was an easy fix. For those here who may have a similar clunking noise. Check the yokes on the ujoint. Sometimes when replecing, you may bend the yokes a bit (or they were previously bent) causing the UJ cross to move side to side inside the bearing caps. It doesnt have to be much . On my car i used a shim b/w the clip and bearing cap, which fixed it..for now untl i ever take the whole thing out

The bolts and nuts look newish. Did someone supply you with course treads instead of fine? Locally I can't find fine thread nyloc nuts, but course threads are plentiful.

Put lock washers on everything, and each spring tighten everything, IT"S ENGLISH

I always thought you had to keep the Timing chain cover bolts loose and then install the crank pulley so that the cover with the pulley seal would center around the pulley and you would not get a oil leak. But I might be wrong. I have to do that with my A-series engines.

All the parts falling off this car are of the finest British quality!