How to remove a prop hub on a Continental A-65 Tapered Shaft (Update
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- čas přidán 26. 11. 2017
- I searched everywhere trying to find a video on how to remove the hub on my Continental A-65 and I couldn’t find one ANYWHERE so I thought I would make one for who else needs it. Thanks for watching. Be sure to LIKE & SUBSCRIBE for more airplane videos. Thanks!
- Jak na to + styl
I know this was several years ago but this video was a big help in figuring out how to get out prop hub off, thanks.
Hi,
Thank you, thank you, thank you !
It worked perfectly fine.
A friend and I have acquired a 1954 Jodel 112 last year (last engine work 2003). For me it was a old plane, but we totally forgot the previous owner had just change the prop. With the heat of our summer four of six screws got loose and one broke (fortunately we discovered it on ground post-flight inspection - never go over check lists ...).
So we had to remove the prop hub but with absolutely no idea of how to do it.
Our initial thought was to remove it with a hub puller.
Local "specialists" told us it was known to be (very) difficult and some had to saw it down !!!
So for me it felt like christmas when, without conviction in my internet search, I found your video.
Last WE we needlessly removed the snap rind (at this time we did not know how to do).
It took us this Sunday more than an one hour to place it back.
Exactly as for avflyguy on first try we got a hard blocking point at 1/4 turn.
I turned it off and gave a gentle hammer tap.
On second try there was still a hard point à 1/4 turn but not blocking and with an 1/8 extra turn achievable, second gently hammering.
Third try was the one with a "clack" and the hub was loose : Hurray !
It took us 3 min.
So thank you, thank you thank you again to have taken some of your time to share this video that helped us a lot.
Henri and Jean François with our F-PGKQ Jodel 112 from F-LFOI.
This post is already long but the story is not closed I'll do an other post.
You are more than welcome. Sorry so late getting back. Glad it helped you out. I just saw your comment when I was replying to a new comment. I must have over looked that notification when you first commented.
I can tell you without hesitation, those props are a real bear to get off a tapered shaft. Most of the off-shelf rust-removers won't work no matter how long they set. Found an old timer that said to use equal parts of acetone and automatic transmission fluid, which seems to work better. The 'key' to put between the internal snap ring needs to be thicker - as thick as the snap ring itself. After about 1/4 turn it would move no more. Used a 3 ft long cheater bar and it still would not budge. Made wood wedges to go between crank and case and banged with 5 lb hand sledge - one side, then the other. The nut would turn another 1/8, then repeat. Soaked with special mix overnight and next day with continued banging with wood wedges and prying with cheater it FINALLY broke loose. When it was put back on coated the shaft with never seize which over a month or two squished it way out and covered the front cowling just behind the prop. No telling what we'll run into next time getting that thing off. **Glad you found a way** And....got a bit lucky as well.
Excellent film footage and commentary.
I just have the problem and wondered how to remove the hub.
Thank you for sharing, I will try this WE and tell you how it went.
Glad you found it helpful. If it hasn’t been off in years then it MIGHT be a little tough getting off but if you do just I say in the video it SHOULD pop right off. 😁👍🏼 Please do let me know.
Time for me to ramble. I'm looking at an A65 for a pietenpol aircamper. Engine is tapered shaft instead of flange shaft. Only thing missing on the engine is the prop hub. As with everything A65, parts are hard to come by. Thanks for posting the video. Saving this video for later just in case.
Thanks for watch! Hope this video helps.
thank you!
More than welcome 😁👍🏼
Cole thanks for making this video however for the life of me I cannot get my hub loose and I am afraid of damaging anything. I’ve put a 2 foot breaker bar on it and with 220 lbs of me pulling on it I cannot get it loose. Your video is great but I do have a question. When looking at the center of the hub from the front there appears to be a large cap of some sort with a slotted opening for a flat head screwdriver. Does this “cap” have to unscrew prior to the steps your showing? How much force did you apply to the breaker bar. It’s been on for at least 26 years now, and I want to replace the prop bolts. Thanks!
Hello Brian! You want damage anything. Lol. Chances are someone put Pirmatex on the nut which acts like lock tight. Make sure your prop is on the plane and have your prop at 2&7 o’clock position with your cheater bar at 9&3 and pull and push and you should get it. Some people put way to much on them which makes it harder for us to get them off. 😏🙄 Hope this helps. Let me know. My email is Chadcole65@yahoo.com if you have anymore questions. Have a blessed day!
So to be clear, the lock ring DOES NOT need to come out?
If so, then when you back off the center nut, and it suddenly gets tight again, that means it's pushing against the lock ring?
And by loosening the nut further, you're essentially pulling the hub off of the shaft?
No sir. You do NOT want The lock ring to come out. That all that little home made tool does is to help keep it from popping out.
As far as the hub goes...when you first break it lose you are breaking the NUT lose. Then when it stops at that 1/4 turn mark sort ah say then that when the lock ring has it locked on there and you have to put more butt behind it to pop it lose. If that’s make sense. 😂🤷🏼♂️
@@ColeAviation got it, thanks
Aero-Kroil will ALWAYS break corrosion loose.
I’m confused in the lock ring, why do you have to hold it with that tool you made. What does that lock ring look like?
The little “tool” I made is to keep that lock ring from popping out as you are hitting on the nut.
Question: is it even legal to have a metal prop on those tapered hub? Does this one have prop drive bushings installed ?
Absolutely it’s legal. Lol. This engine was factory other than the prop. Running this Met L Prop it has bushings that insert into the back side of the prop if that’s what your talking about.
@@ColeAviation Should have said metal prop. on a tapered shaft hub. Those removable hubs were originally designed purely for wood props, where the torque was transferred through friction. The bolts merely provide the clamping force to create that friction. Metal props are driven through bushing in the flange that take the torque. Hence my question if it had those bushings installed. Can't find any reference anywhere on using these hubs with metal props.
@@PDZ1122 It is actually called a Met-L-prop. It’s written in the front face of the prop. But this prop has flown on this engine/Cub for way over 40 plus years and never once had a problem. I know many people that run Met-L props with a tapered shaft. People been doing it for years & YEARS.
It you follow me on here you will see what this prop looks like now. Looks nothing like it did. I have completely striped it down to the bear aluminum and polished it up like a mirror. And yeah I know your not supposed to have a polished prop but I do my own annuals and she will be cleaned multiple times a day I’m sure to prevent corrosion. 😂👍🏼
Can somebody explain to me more further what is the tapered shaft??
Hummmm 🤔 Do you know Anything about airplanes or airplane engines?
The crank shaft is tapered on the end with a key way cut out in it so you can bolt the prop onto the engine.
Chad how's your plane coming bro, you get your wings covered or is your plane ready to hit the sky?🇺🇸
Look forward to hearing from you bro God bless take care, KeepLookingUp Jesus maybe coming soon 👆
Your brother from another mother but the same father.
What Kendricks Brothers Christian movie does this come from?