I Bought 4 BROKEN Monitors - Let's Try to Fix Them!
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- čas přidán 17. 02. 2022
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I Bought 4 BROKEN Monitors - Let's Try to Fix Them! I bought four broken computer monitors to see if I could figure out how to fix them. I don't really have much experience fixing monitors so these repairs will take a lot of trial and error and experimenting to figure out what's wrong and how to fix it... if it's even fixable or worth fixing.
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It is the best and keep up that good work I find it so relaxing
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Love Filmora, use it to edit my vids for my LEGO channel, easy to use, I recommend! Keep the vids coming, loving the new stuff!
@@BasementBrickBuilder agreed
I would never call a ‘no fix’ video as boring, as it’s always experience
Glad to hear it!
@@Tronicsfix I second this. I watch for the techniques not just the satisfaction of the fixes. This video was amazing, I never thought to look at the data sheets and operate while the patient was alive. I'll be careful I know what I'm doing. E: I'm working on a broken SNES not a high voltage circuit.
Spoiler warning.....
@@MisterMakerNL lol not really a spoiler warning as he did fix some ;)
14:20 The 53 volts is generated by the chip you replaced by switching the MOSFET on the output pin 7 on and off really fast (switching from 0 to 5v to 0 to 5v etc..). It is a boost controller chip for sure. If it will power some of the LED channels but not all of them at once then I would check the current sense resistor that is connected to pin 6 (CS) and labeled as Rcs in the datasheet schematic. Rcs should be a pretty low value as shown in the datasheet so it might be difficult to measure being 0.15 ohms. If that resistor burns up or increases in value it might show those exact symptoms. Other things to check are the more obvious things like the capacitors on the output side (22uF in the datasheet) and the resistors in the feedback circuit. If the caps start shorting at higher frequencies from losing too much electrolyte then the current sense might see too much current and start to lower the output voltages. Most suspect would be the caps and the current sensing resistor Rcs, though...
OK, got it. I had no idea that switching the MOSFET back and fourth would do that. Now, I can move forward with some testing. Thanks for the comment. I might have to make another video about this one if I can figure it out.
@@Tronicsfix No problem. Love your videos. Would love to see if you can get that one working. ;)
@@Tronicsfix My prime suspect would be the capacitors on the output of the boost converter. If they lost too much capacity, the boost converter won't work correctly.
If the Monitor is a few years old, I would always replace them, even if they look good.
But make sure to use correct replacements, since this converters may have trouble, if the parameters don't match.
@@Tronicsfix Mosfet is connected to a coil which is mandatory for voltage boosting. You can use diode tester to find out the output caps of the booster circuit which is connected to the coil or you can directly focus on the big capacitors next to the back light's connectors :D
Hi !
Mybe its the backlight it self were faulty !
Who puts a plastic shipping label pouch strait onto a monitor like that? Some people's children.....
Lol, agreed!
Great video and repair as always! For that last TV with the backlight issue, my first suspicion is usually a bad led(s). The short wouldn't be bad enough to take down the LED strips on the one side but when combined with the load from the other side, there is too much current draw and the driver circuitry shuts down. You could use an LED backlight tester to see the current draw (for ease) and/or you can expose the backlight and potentially see which LEDs have an issue. If it's not obvious at first, you can film in slo-mo on your phone when you turn on the backlight and then replay it for come clues.
Brilliant! Thanks for the comment. I'll have to try this out. Could you tell where the high voltage was being created on that board?
I honestly think you might be on to something on that, it likely is just a bad led, that makes sense as to why they work separately but not in tandem.
@@Tronicsfix maybe the mosfet+coil that are togheter can setepup the voltage, if you see one of the chip outputs goes to the mosfet
@@Tronicsfix Don't you have the other monitor that you just fixed? If you plugged the LEDs of that monitor to this last one and the board worked, you would prove that the panel has a bad LED or LEDs inside
Exactly
I must say, while your other console repair videos are fun too, I tend to like these just a little bit better because while you generally know the common issues with the consoles and where to look, when working on this stuff that you aren't really as familiar with, we get to see more of the general diagnostic process which I find really cool.
2:34 It really looked like a cold solder joint on that first chip you put in. That same pin that burned up on the bad original chip didn't seem to get solder to flow on to get a good connection on the new chip.
@@ethand4784 - To no end. Big difference between know and no.
Yup this.
Yeah I said the same thing. When replacing with hot air I always add more Flux and a bit a fresh solder on the pins with my iron after placing the new chip. Definitely increases reliability.
Poor connection (high resistance) + current flow = heat.
I thought exactly this when I saw the chip removal and hoped he had a good shot of him checking the pin. I bet if he would have touched that pin it would have moved.
That monitor failed due to a manufacturing defect... absolutely.
This guy is amazing. He saves actually decent monitors from landfill which doesnt seem like much but it is actually amazing
Even if the board is dead, the screen can be salvaged and be connected to a different screen driver - about 25 bucks to a driver. I made several new screens this way.
On these cheaper monitors, it’s really not worth it to buy a new screen, but my friend bought a high end 1440p 180hz monitor with screen damage for next to nothing, and replaced the screen. All in all, the unit works perfectly for a fraction of what it would’ve cost new. Your mileage may vary though
These repair videos are so satisfying, as well as the fact you're saving capable devices from landfill.
I'm so glad you're finally fixing monitors. You seem to really read our ideas when you ask us. 👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
For the 1st one - I think you missed the part where some cleaning up is made with solder wick and then put on some fresh solder. I do the same mistake every once in a while - thus the cold solder joint. For the 3rd one - 99% sure , one of the LEDs is dead , so you don't even have to replace the whole strip. Just find a matching LED and put that on the existing strip -> cheap ,but time consuming fix. Take your time with led panel disassembly.
Hey @TronicsFix great video yet again, I love watching would-be landfill getting turned into working items again! I was curious, do you plan on fixing up Steam Decks once they start getting used and inevitably broken? Would love to see that!
I had an issue with the same chip as monitor 2 , but in my case , the bad chip also caused significant burned traces in the PCB.. Although I was able to manually wire all pins , but the board was so broken that ultimately I decided to replace the PCB itself with a new one ( You can get them for 30 bucks ) , and it even added an HDMI output to my monitor.. Still using that monitor to this day , works great..
Edit : The Monitor was LG 20 Inch 900p
P.S. I never figured out what caused the chip (and the area of the board surrounding it ) to be burnt that bad in the first place.. It's like a more intense version of monitor 2..
To the last monitor... I think that this power board is OK. The problem could be the backlight itself. Disassembly the panel and check the LED strings. This is constant current source. If one or more LEDs is shorted the backlight can works normally, but there can also be a voltage measurement and protection on too low voltage. If there is an open circuit the backlight can't working. This problem is easily fixable by change all LED strips with new one.
This is the kind of work I've been doing at the farming electronics company I'm working at and it's so much fun being able to find and diagnose any problems with datasheets!
Farming electronics?! That sounds awesome! I grew up on a farm. That's where I developed my love/need for fixing. Mind if I ask what company and what exactly you repair?
@@Tronicsfix I would call it "farming" as the electronics are more for farming things but I fix industrial telemetry units (ITUs) and long range remotes (still in-training). The company is called Harvest Electronics and is based in New Zealand.
Great repairs Steve, love your channel
great stuff mate, always enjoying your videos, keep them coming!
Thank you for this video Steve!! I always wanted to see you try your hand at fixing some computer monitors. I went through a phase of fixing LCD screens. I put up an add on Kijiji for free pickup of broken computer screens and it worked quite well. I couldn't fix all of them though. Some were just beyond me at the time. I'd love to see ya get some 2K or 4K computer screens to fix. That'd be interesting to see as well, since those are rather expensive units
I love watching these videos they are so interesting especially since I'm really into technology your work is amazing and keep on doing what your doing. Love the content
As always, it's a pleasure to watch your repairs and thanks for all of your output, even when there are some unfixable things. That's life - or the way it is. Back in the early 2000's I fixed a monitor by replacing the capacitors of the mainboard. It still works today for my parent's PC they occasionally use for office purpose (they usually do stuff on their Apple MacBook). Since than I never had a broken monitor again. On the contrary, I sold an 2010 BenQ V2400 Eco monitor on eBay some days ago that still worked fine. Just switched to more screen estate (32" for the win) from LG. Your video is at least a good example for not buying a monitor from HP. Never trusted this weird printer manufacturer 😅
Nice to see you tring new stuff, keep it going ;)
The backlight LED circuit is the boost converter which is on the right side of the board where the inductor, diode and bulk caps are. It will generate the voltage you need to satisfy the forward voltage requirements for the LED strings in the LCD. If you find the datasheet for it you can browse the reference schematic and use it for clues on how to debug the circuit.
you get better and better, nice job
This is great video. I've been interesting on monitor. Keep up with trying different things
Love the enthusiasm! great video as always.
I started fixing TVs but got tired of carrying them :) now i am more into consoles, great video, thanks Steve.
I’ve been loving these videos a lot
Love your videos man.
You remind me of my brother in law who passed away last year.
He was a genius electronics guy like you, and you guys kinda look the same so its like hanging out with him when I watch your vids.
Cheers!
So sorry for your loss
Another great video. I have used broken displays as practice for soldering especially hdmi ports! Have you thought about trying to fix graphics cards?
3:15 well that was very optimistic :D
Its cool to see something different from your usual repairs
Just for future reference, it might be worth using olive oil. It's good at removing adhesives and not corrosive to the screen. Can clean it off with soap and water after.
Nice one Steve! I forgot, have you ever done external hard drive repair videos? I'll admit I have seen all your videos yet. :) I'm sure there are plenty of folks out there hoping to save old photos
I have not because I don't have a clean room setup. I might try SSD repairs at some point though
Take the flashlight up against the screen to see if there is any picture.
BTW, the LEDs could be dead (judging by them flash when the monitor switches on and the voltage slovly dropping). The chip turns on detects no load/overvoltage on the output and shuts down.
The high voltage is likely produced in theese big inductors on the top of the PCB.
Yes, there is a picture that flashes for a second then goes black.
@@Tronicsfix The LEDs likely failed.
But hey, if you can't find the replacament, you can always bodge a LED strip in the back of the screen, just make sure to use high CRI LEDs (talking from expirience).
@@filenotfound__3871 i came here to say this. Likely the led:s. You can test those with a battery and jump the broken ones to test.
@@Tronicsfix Swap the ports that the LED strips are plugged in to. Sounds stupid, but it used to work on fluorescent bulb LCDs. If 1 bulb started going bad, it kills power to both. They would have the same response when uplugging 1 or the other, but remaining would fully light up (even if it was the bad bulb). For some reason, just swapping the port they were plugged in to would fool the board into lighting them. I always just assumed it was a sensitivity issue on the board, and one "side" was just a little more sensitive. I got quite a few more years out of some of those LCD monitors with that trick.
So excited about this, really interested in seeing these taken apart.
This was a fun one. I want to fix more of these now!
@@Tronicsfix A friend of mine just had a small ant die between the glass and the screen of his 65 inch TV, it drove him nuts looking at it, we thought about trying to take it apart ourselves but after watching a few videos and reading about screens we figured it wasn't worth it, it was an older TV and he wanted a new one anyway, but it sucks something so trivial killed a tv
@@Tronicsfix please do so intresting to watch
@@stephens9772 That would have been difficult for sure
On the last monitor, just as a pretest, i would have disconnected the backlight LEDs and then put a flashlight up close to the front of the screen just to see if the picture LEDs were working properly. If both sets of LEDs were bad, then i would say it's a no fix ;)
It shows a picture on the screen for bout a second before shutting down
Nice work Steve!
He even took the bother to get the data sheets for the small components. You deserve all the best.
Even tho I’m too scared to take a part electronics like this, I really enjoy the vids and even the no fix videos. As they’re still very interesting.
Great video as always . Thank you for sharing ☺️☺️☺️
Thanks for watching!
It depends on what you call repair. Finding a working driver board is often quite easy specially and guaranteed if you are willing to make modifications to the screen. I like to modify screens and most of the times I actually replace the working board with third-party to get more functionality like remote control and/or adding TV functionality.
check that 8 pin component by the ribbon to the panel. Generally buck/boost chips are going to have a coil/inductor and cap to do their work, and there was a large coil next to that chip. And yeah, looks like the boost converter is working, but is shutting down with both backlights hooked up and you're just seeing the decay on that pin.
You rock bro...
....im getting in to fixing 1phones because of your great video's and good advice...and after that moving to game consoles...
God bless you and your family🙋
For the unfixable monitor, maybe a very dumb suggestion but here I go anyway:
Could it be that the problem is not with the monitor but rather with the power supply. If the one you are using somehow got mixed up and simply does not provide enough current, that could explain the issue. Possibly even if it's faulty.
25 inches is such a weird size. Great video as always, I never find it boring.
I think one of the backlight LEDs is faulty. By disconnecting the backlight part with the faulty LED, that part works. With the faulty LED strip connected, a current limiter kicks in and shuts down as a protection mechanism.
Replacing a backlight LED strip is hard, the LCD panel needs to come apart.
Yep, used to have this exact issue with old fluorescent bulb backlit LCDs. 1 bulb would start going bad, and the board would kill power to all bulbs. You could unplug either bulb and the other would fully light. Most of the time, just swapping which port the bulbs were plugged into would "fix" the problem and you could get a few more years out of the monitor.
Great vid as always
Congratulations on 1M subs Steve! 🎂
Thanks!
For the last monitor you might want to buy a replacement board and then check its voltages to see the differences. So, next time you might have a clearer idea on what to look for to fix it.
i love it when fixes work !! :D
I'd really like to see you try and fix more monitors
blast from the past new series for you tryr to repair old tvs old concles old ect...
What can't he fix? This guy is literally the tech fixer on god level
Im expecting a tesla sometime soon 😅
Still watching through this vid, so not sure if a similar problem comes up later, but have an anecdote:
Many years ago I got a secondhand LCD monitor from my dad (he'd replaced it 'cause it was having intermittent issues). It worked fine for me for a while, then started showing those same issues again, with increasing frequency. Eventually it stopped working entirely...or so it seemed.
The _apparent_ problem was that it would randomly just...turn off. Power cycling it would sometimes get it to work again, but sometimes wouldn't. Eventually this trick stopped working at all.
However, at some point I took a close look at the screen under bright light right after it had seemingly turned off, and noticed that it was still showing the image, it just wasn't producing any light. Aha! The mainboard and image processors were still working, it was just the backlight that wasn't (this was back when fluorescent backlights were more common than LEDs). I did some searching around, saw several posts of people having similar problems, and found _one_ post from someone with the exact same model of monitor and the exact same problem...and the solution. On the sub-board that controls the backlight (including its power delivery), there was a row of 4 or 5 identical capacitors; at least one of them had gone bad. Replace the whole set with a new set, and bingo, working perfectly once again. 🙂
the 50+V is generated by the action of the boost controller (the last IC you replaced) that switches the mosfet on the output pin, since only one channel is operating at any time I would assume there is something wrong with the power components in the upper part of the typical application circuit (maybe the inductor) or the shunt resistor (Rcs) that make the IC enter in current limit
I couldn't find the 50V on that chip though. That's what was confusing to me.
@@e.tsanov OK, got it. That is interesting. Thanks for the explanation. I'll have to do some more testing on this now that I know how it works.
@@Tronicsfix buck/boost circuits come in many different forms, for low power applications you can find ICs that integrate the whole converter, for more power demanding ones you should use a controller and external switches, like in this case. You should give a look to switching converters :) the output capacitor(s) is a good candidate for replacement too
One day it will say "I bought two broken rockets from Space X, let's see if I can fix them ! " 😂 Great video as usual.
On your final monitor what generates the 53v will be around a large inductor. There is one on the board to the right of the circuit you replaced. Personally I'd be checking the MOSFET is good as the circuit is collapsing after a full design load is put on it, but half load it works.
Have been a subscriber for a long tong time, but now I see that rally anyone can fix anything. In short you had the drawing of a boost converter in front of your eyes:).
Hint, try to power led led segments from a cc supply. It seems to be a low voltage detection over the LED chain, as the voltage was decreasing. So maybe it has some shorted LED's and they detect it.
This is cool. You fixed monitors before. But fixing more of them you can learn more about monitors. Nice ✌️
Fast forward over the ads, and this is a great video.
"I found some chips on AliExpress" ..."I hate it when I get chips that don't work" :rolls eyes:
Well done on 1M subs
The addition to getting the datasheets is great, as it helps the audience understand HOW you know certain things.
I don't know where you live, but it would be great if you worked with Mehdi from ElectroBOOM. Maybe do a funny face-off where you compete in fixing something with a timer?
Watching this is so satisfying. 👌
I think the last display might have a blown capacitor or something so it can't handle the load. If you don't manage to fix it in some other way, try the sketchy thing and add a voltage converter to get about 53 volts and bypass the internal one.
awesome video. Would love to know where to get these tiny chips and caps.
Removing the adhesive film from the LCD could be done with a heat gun on a low setting. Not hot enough to damage the LCD but warm enough to soften the adhesive that it will peel off slowly without the need for applying alcohol. You can peel stubborn labels from boxes in this way as well.
Some LCDs will have AR coatings on them which can be removed by alcohol/IPA. The surface is treated before applying the AR coating and if contaminated, it doesn't take much to rub it off. If the surface isn't damaged, it will remain intact but if you scratch it and the pre-treatment wasn't done properly, you can wipe it off with cleaner and sometimes without.
Depending on who made the AR coating cleaning agents vary between IPA, keytone, etc.
Heatgun on a low setting is typically now you avoid scratches or swirl marks left by IPA + kimwipes.
Others already explained that chip to you. I would have suggested searching for the inductor (see schematic, the 22uH inductor connected to Vin) and the mosfet.
The chip has a lot of built in protections which may be triggered if one or several leds are shorted (causing one strip to have a lower voltage than the other, or have the leds consume more current). You really have to inspect the led strips, or do a preliminary test with some known good led strips connected to those headers to rule out the circuit being bad.
This was cool. I hope you tackle Bluetooth headphones next, it would be interesting to see you fix broken powerbeats pro & airpods
I like these videos with different electronics to fix. 👍👍👍
Glad you like them!
Excellent video, my friend. Shame about that first unfixable one though, they really should have mentioned the broken screen in the description of the sale....
They were all listed as salvage so I expected more of them to have broken screens.
@@Tronicsfix oh, well then you lucked out. I didn't catch the part where you mentioned them being listed as salvage or parts only. But hey, at least that first monitor can serve as a donor for another similar one in the future if everything works but the cracked screen.
Helps diagnose for me. The one with the packing label could have been a display model with that the spot they put the price inside.
Would be awesome to see some tv repair videos
@TronicsFix I repaired an HP 27F and 32F. Similar to what you ran into partial dead LED light strip on the 27" and I was able to pilfer the LED's off the prior working / cracked screen to get it working. The 32" I repaired the board, replaced a few caps that were distended.
I'm thinking probably faulty LED's. Might have to make a follow up video on this one.
For board 4 try changing mosfet/transistor BJ1 and the two caps BCE4 and BCE3. Well I really hope you try that first and see where it gets you. Nice repairs 👍
Thanks for the tips!
This guy has to be the ultimate uncle. He can fix anything! I wonder if he can also fix broken relationships...
I'm pretty sure the chip that's meant to be outputting 5v that's doing 1.9 that goes to that little chip with 3 pins on one side and a single pad on the other side is a voltage regulator, worth replacing that if you can
good job mate.
The logic board on these displays are hilarious i remember when they took up the entire case..
Nowadays i've seen them being just 1 chip, which is sorta lame when you had to remove a ton of glue.
Oh the first display also had an unsoldered capacitor on the top left!
I guarantee you the first replacement chip was just ok. Maybe if you took your time to clean all the old solder and put a new one it would work just fine
Follow the trances from the connecte to find where the booster converter is that is supplying the 53V
Hello, I think it's a faulty LED strip causing the voltage drop to avoid the short circuit and to save the chip it self.
Also check the capacitors.
I think the 53 volt which is created is by the inductor which is placed on right side of pcb! am Talking ABT the black square one!
10:10 hi steve, could be bad led(s) in backlight, try to replace the backligt led strips, it is enough that the 1 or 2 LEDs are defective and the whole backlight may stop working
Yes! Bad led increase the power consumption, the power source detect this situation and drop voltaje.
like the others said below I would check the mosfets or caps on that 50V "power supply". It seems like a lot of the time NorthridgeFix Alex replaces bad mosfets on the GPUs and the power rails come back to life at the correct voltages.
I've been told a common failure is the caps. You could try replacing all the caps and see if it changes. I've actually seen a video where he did that and it worked.
Ever tried iodine-benzine mixture for removing adhesive? They are mostly used in hospitals for removing bandage adhesives, but works immensely on all types of adhesives, haven't tested on anything electronic, but it does dry up quickly. The mixture can be prepared at specific pharmacies, but man, it simply deletes adhesive really quick (plastic, metal even wood).
2:47 the solder job on the burned pad (the one where the burned leg was) does not look too good, i would most def add fresh solder there and reflown in (you can see on the vid the solder did not really mend the way it suppose to)... but that's just the nitpicker in me talking...
I'm always amazed how people managed to damaged items they owned. Still have my NES from my 8th birthday !
It astonishes me that sometimes all these things need is a single chip to be replaced. Remarkable.
Almost looks like the Riset resistor has drifted and the controller isn't supplying enough current to drive all the LEDs (there's a table in the datasheet). And it could also be the N-MOSFET that is bad and unable to handle the load. To be honest, I usually look at the circuits present in the datasheet and try to find one that is present in the one that I'm trying to troubleshoot. Companies rarely reinvent the wheel, as we say in my part of the world. Good luck!
Next stop: repairing LCD TVs. Good job Steve!
If you need a TV, let me know! I got one that could use a repair!
Did you try comparing the resistance to ground on both backlight 50 V pins with and without the backlight plugged in? If its roughly the same without the backlight plugged in (my guess >1MOhm) then the issue is likely in the backlight itself.
First off, I know absolutely nothing but I'm wanting to learn. I was just wondering in regards to the 53V... On the board, you were testing 18+ volts and I noticed 3 ribbons ( 10:18 ). 18 x 3 is 54
Is it possible that by disconnecting a ribbon it opens the circuit. I know I'm probably sounding like an idiot but just a stab in the dark. If you figure out the issue, please keep us posted as I'd love to learn. Thanks for all your amazing videos and helping me learn what I never knew interested me.
Great video lad keep up with the good work
Thanks, will do!
good job bro
When fixing broken TVs, I've found it not turning on to be a good sign. Because it means the person tossed it due to a power issue, which tends to be easy/cheap to fix. If it does turn on, you'll probably be greeted to a spider webbed screen. lol!
Always replace the electrolytic capacitors on the power supply. They are chosen for a short life that will kill the monitor after enough time.
In my experience if u get power, sound but no picture use a torch to chk the screen for picture as even 1 led being burnd can cause no backlight on a monitor or tv