Same thing we where doing in 1992 at the Buick Dealer as our maximum reading was 0.020Vdc. It is electrolytic compounds in coolant regardless of color that conduct electricity and if strong enough can store it. Providing two clean grounds with Star-Washers to dig into the metal, applied dielectric grease to the fasteners drops voltage to 0.003Vdc on a Fluke 87-V. As coolant is moved thru the block by the circulation pump, it induces voltage into what ever color of coolant you have. The same as rotors on a helicopter slicing thru the air picks up a static voltage that must be discharged if towing/lifting an object. Otherwise it will feel like a bad plug wire. In the late 60’s, GM placed ground clips between the heater core and ground that most threw away. Since ground is created at the end housing of an alternator thru 3 negative diodes, it to can cause a system wide voltage drop and easily be found with engine on, lights, blower fan on high. Add clean ground from the block to the alt case to correct. A/C voltage leakage is another issue never checked, as this indicates a diode failing in forward bias. Same again, engine running, lights, blower fan on, test on A/C scale of Digital multi meter from alt B+ to battery ground at 2k RPM. If reading exceeds 0.060Vac, diode is failing. A/C & DC exist within the electrical system. If checked at battery, reduce acceptable Vac by 2/3rds. The battery acts as a capacitor smoothing out the A/C ripples, so best to always test at the alt B+ terminal for best reading. Too high A/C ripples interrupt serial data signals as well. If too high, various systems work/don’t work and more than 2 or more “U” codes are stored in history, then check the alternator as described. The “REF” is ground in schematic and are dedicated grounds from MAF, MAP or TPS as these must run thru up to 4 sections of controller of engine running thru computer/ECM/PCM at 2k RPM to battery via G100 & G101 from harness indicates voltage drop is excessive if over 0.400Vdc, which is industry standard. Once again, battery ground to block, intake to cab/chassis/frame or subframe is required w/star washers, dielectric grease and clean of rust to allow engine, body, chassis controls to work. I genuinely hope this information is provided to the crop the tool box owners who do not know how carbs work, 2-stoke engines & their fuel pumps function as they were born into EFI. True mass produced EFI vehicles hit the market in 1976, Cadillac Seville & Datsun 280Z. I worked at the Datsun dealer. Do not confuse EFI with CIS or mechanical systems by Hilborne and Mercedes. True EFI as we know it started in 1984 as the Buick Grand National with 1 injector firing in order of firing. The distributor was only a cam position sensor, that had to be synchronized with the correct cylinder then retarded to proper setting. DK, ASE master tech since 78
That’s a great idea! Thank you very much. I have never thought to use my power probe to check for electrolysis. I’ve always used a DVOM. From now on I won’t bother. The power probe is my go-to electrical diagnostic tool. Probably one of the the most fantastic tools in my cabinet.and I use it several times a week on customer cars and trucks. Just makes things so much simpler.
As a sailor with my little outboard attached, we were always concerned with stray voltage at the dock. We never left our propeller or engines in the water when or boats were nested in our slip least we have our outboards engines slowly dissolve. But I had never even considered the same happens internally with the engine in your automobile. Eye opening! Conversely when I served on the sea with my job for many years on a 470’ vessels, it’s hull was purposely charged with a tiny bit of voltage to combat corrosion in a saltwater environment. This and sacrificial zinc calmed frightened molecules of metal from leaving. Great video young man!
I have a 1990 taurus sho when I step on the throttle and released all of a sudden all the gadgets in the dash are going crazy I'm thinking it might be cause in the engine harness so my question is to you is m'i on the right track?
It is time to replace your antifreeze because it has broken down. I would suggest a professional coolant flush with a flush machine from a shop. Or, if DIY, completely drain the coolant system, including the heater core, then refill with new coolant, run engine until you reach normal operating temp. Then completely drain again and refill with new coolant. Yes, it is two times because simply draining once does not get it out of the block, the second will do that.
Like he said, Electrolysis and it’s cause and cure are a complete separate topic. It can be very frustrating to find the cause at times. I would recommend that you do an Internet search on the topic, you will learn quite a lot.
Terrible camera work. I don't see any difference between #1 and #2, they are both showing voltage, where is the stray voltage showing up in #2, but not in #1? Just stick a screwdriver in the tank.
ErictheCarGuy was right about Realfixesrealfast PRODIGY Realfixesrealfast Thanks for sharing it with us very helpful video information. Take care and have a great day. SUBSTANTIAL Realfixesrealfast From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Glad to see you are doing better. You truly are the Godfather of Diagnostics. Cheers.
Same thing we where doing in 1992 at the Buick Dealer as our maximum reading was 0.020Vdc. It is electrolytic compounds in coolant regardless of color that conduct electricity and if strong enough can store it. Providing two clean grounds with Star-Washers to dig into the metal, applied dielectric grease to the fasteners drops voltage to 0.003Vdc on a Fluke 87-V. As coolant is moved thru the block by the circulation pump, it induces voltage into what ever color of coolant you have. The same as rotors on a helicopter slicing thru the air picks up a static voltage that must be discharged if towing/lifting an object. Otherwise it will feel like a bad plug wire.
In the late 60’s, GM placed ground clips between the heater core and ground that most threw away.
Since ground is created at the end housing of an alternator thru 3 negative diodes, it to can cause a system wide voltage drop and easily be found with engine on, lights, blower fan on high. Add clean ground from the block to the alt case to correct.
A/C voltage leakage is another issue never checked, as this indicates a diode failing in forward bias. Same again, engine running, lights, blower fan on, test on A/C scale of Digital multi meter from alt B+ to battery ground at 2k RPM. If reading exceeds 0.060Vac, diode is failing. A/C & DC exist within the electrical system. If checked at battery, reduce acceptable Vac by 2/3rds. The battery acts as a capacitor smoothing out the A/C ripples, so best to always test at the alt B+ terminal for best reading. Too high A/C ripples interrupt serial data signals as well. If too high, various systems work/don’t work and more than 2 or more “U” codes are stored in history, then check the alternator as described.
The “REF” is ground in schematic and are dedicated grounds from MAF, MAP or TPS as these must run thru up to 4 sections of controller of engine running thru computer/ECM/PCM at 2k RPM to battery via G100 & G101 from harness indicates voltage drop is excessive if over 0.400Vdc, which is industry standard. Once again, battery ground to block, intake to cab/chassis/frame or subframe is required w/star washers, dielectric grease and clean of rust to allow engine, body, chassis controls to work. I genuinely hope this information is provided to the crop the tool box owners who do not know how carbs work, 2-stoke engines & their fuel pumps function as they were born into EFI. True mass produced EFI vehicles hit the market in 1976, Cadillac Seville & Datsun 280Z. I worked at the Datsun dealer. Do not confuse EFI with CIS or mechanical systems by Hilborne and Mercedes. True EFI as we know it started in 1984 as the Buick Grand National with 1 injector firing in order of firing. The distributor was only a cam position sensor, that had to be synchronized with the correct cylinder then retarded to proper setting.
DK, ASE master tech since 78
Well ok! That was a bit informational Tourette’s, but actually a lot of good stuff there. Interesting about the alt. Will try.
That’s a great idea! Thank you very much. I have never thought to use my power probe to check for electrolysis. I’ve always used a DVOM. From now on I won’t bother. The power probe is my go-to electrical diagnostic tool. Probably one of the the most fantastic tools in my cabinet.and I use it several times a week on customer cars and trucks. Just makes things so much simpler.
It always pays off to open your mind to new techniques.
As a sailor with my little outboard attached, we were always concerned with stray voltage at the dock. We never left our propeller or engines in the water when or boats were nested in our slip least we have our outboards engines slowly dissolve. But I had never even considered the same happens internally with the engine in your automobile. Eye opening! Conversely when I served on the sea with my job for many years on a 470’ vessels, it’s hull was purposely charged with a tiny bit of voltage to combat corrosion in a saltwater environment. This and sacrificial zinc calmed frightened molecules of metal from leaving. Great video young man!
I appreciate how you relate your knowledge to your experience. Thanks foe your comments
Hoooohaaaah !! You Rock ! Much appreciated !! Please keep ‘em coming and I will pass it on to help others too . 👊🏼
Great video Dwayne....I have learned so much from you over the years
It’s great to see how you have bounced back.
Keep em coming Dwayne! ✊🏾 Making us smarter one video at a time! Thank you!!
AWESOME INFORMATION AS ALWAYS THANKS FOR SHARING.
Dude! Great video. I never knew that antifreeze could hold a charge. The more you know!
I need to buy a power probe. Been seeing all my favorite youtubers using them. They seem very handy for diag
Great as always thanks for shearing your information
Wow thanks for teaching us this. I just learned something completely new. Much appreciated.
great tip,thank you Duane.
Many thanks for this out of the box lesson.
POWER PROBE IS THE BEST😎‼️
Good information 👍 👌 👏
Great tip! Thanks.
Excellent info been doing that for years definitely will create driveability problems. Keep up the good work 👏
Glad to see you, Duane! And it's been an education as always. 👌
Great stuff sir. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Awesome information. Thanks for the video.
Excellent teaching point.
thank you, I learned something new
Why not touch the probe to the core itself? Most cores are electrically isolated
Who else got here expecting to see Power Probe used as a prybar? ;-)
Good reminder about electrolysis though, thanks for that :)
Minimooooooooooooooo excellent maestro wow 🤩 thanks 🙏 I learned something with you today thanks
Hell yeah. Love this! You ask yerself, why didn't I think of that?
Very useful, great video thanks!
thanks so much
I have a 1990 taurus sho when I step on the throttle and released all of a sudden all the gadgets in the dash are going crazy I'm thinking it might be cause in the engine harness so my question is to you is m'i on the right track?
Interesting
Thank you!
What if your PowerProbe reading -00.2 green light on ????
Love that!
Hello what I do if The reading is above 0.300
It is time to replace your antifreeze because it has broken down. I would suggest a professional coolant flush with a flush machine from a shop. Or, if DIY, completely drain the coolant system, including the heater core, then refill with new coolant, run engine until you reach normal operating temp. Then completely drain again and refill with new coolant. Yes, it is two times because simply draining once does not get it out of the block, the second will do that.
what's the solution for electrolysis
I think it's to replace the coolant.
Like he said, Electrolysis and it’s cause and cure are a complete separate topic. It can be very frustrating to find the cause at times. I would recommend that you do an Internet search on the topic, you will learn quite a lot.
you a swell guy
Gunna try it
Terrible camera work. I don't see any difference between #1 and #2, they are both showing voltage, where is the stray voltage showing up in #2, but not in #1? Just stick a screwdriver in the tank.
Hello, where can i contact you about the product sponsorship?
ErictheCarGuy was right about Realfixesrealfast
PRODIGY Realfixesrealfast
Thanks for sharing it with us very helpful video information. Take care and have a great day.
SUBSTANTIAL Realfixesrealfast
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧