As a Dryliner My only problem is Damp on Site I WALK OFF SITE IF THE BOARDS ARE WET/DAMP I Don't use Single Screws. I use Screw Strips= Less Hand work. Although 90% is Double Ply for Soundproofing. Nice to see a Regular person attempting Studded Walls👍 EDIT Only 1 thing.....Rough edge too the Floor. Rough edge is now hidden by Skirting rail👍
As a plasterer... the sharper the blade, the more itll go off course, also u dnt need to cut a 3rd of way? Judt score the paper and itll give u a cleaner cut aswell
Fantastic set of tips! Impeccable timing as I'm just about to start a stud wall and drywalling project. I'll be buying those drywall bits momentarily. A tips video on taping and jointing wouldn't go a miss 😜
I bought a brand new drywall lifter a few years ago off Ebay for about £100. I used it to lift a dozen boards and then I sold it again on Ebay. I thought that even if I only got half of what I bought it for then it would still be cheaper than hiring one. The winning bid was just over £125 ! I thought it was crazy, someone bidding for a second hand item for more than they could buy a brand new one. BUT.... it got even crazier. The guy who bought it lived in the same town where i had got it from in the first place, and then driven his Range rover from Essex to Staffordshire and back, a round trip of over 250 miles!!!!
Great video Tim. My tip is to put your plaster board stack on some trestles so you don’t have to work on your hands and knees. And get a big 1.2m square
When I was doing a lot of plaster boarding during a home renovation I picked up an inexpensive aluminium L angle. Perfect for using as a cutting guide and is 2.5m in length. Use it all the time now as get much more accurate cuts / lines.
I always do the ceiling first. That way the plasterboard on the walls holds the edges of the ceiling boards in place. If you don't they can sag, especially the 9mm stuff, and that looks unsightly and more prone to cracks along the corner.
Tim. When gluing plaster board and using less fixings. You should consider using temporary fixing blocks in areas you ultimately do not want screws. Plaster board is flexible and can bow when you fix around the edges, that causes hollow spots in the centre. Temporary fixings stop that happening. Use off cuts of plasterboard in squares as large washers to spread the load and screw through those to you wall. Once the glues is dry remove the temporary fixings (yes there are small holes to patch but it's better than a loose and holow wall. I hope that helps D
I go round with a square and quickly mark the centre of the studs on the floor. That way if your putting up anything on the walls like cupboards etc it’s quick to find the studs. Also you can place the laser line on it when the plasterboard covers over the stud.
One thing I liked to do when fitting boards horizontally on top of eachother was to lay a temporary 2mm spacer between the boards so that the join wasn't under the strain of the top board.
I looked at gypsum when I had a garden with clay rich soil that didn't drain too easily. It may not be drainage you're concerned with - sand as well will help if you've got leftovers - I grew marjoram and tarragon at the top of a slope a while back and sand and gypsum were about right for the requirements.
The 5 acre hill field is very compacted and we shot a video testing the soil recently about the low levels of calcium there so a combo of gypsum and mechanical opening of the ground was recommended.
Calcium sure, but sulphate is what it's used for as a fertiliser. Quite the colourful history fought over gypsum, an interesting read if you want! Thanks for the tips all the same 👍🏼
Tip number 11. Make sure you score along the right side of the spirit level. I'm sure I haven't had my last time of putting a nice score line following the indentation of the bubble 😡
Totally agree on the plasterboard lift, I struggled my way through all the ceilings in my house with just me and my old man up a tower. I never got on with those drywall bits personally, the ones I had still seamed to go too deep and obscured your view so you couldn't stop short, just went with the old fashioned PH2's in the end. I actually quite like using an impact on a lower power, much lighter working overhead.
Yeah a lift is a must, especially on 3m+ ceilings like our old house. Perhaps some bits deeper than others, I know you can buy adjustable depth collars too which might help. 👍
Make yourself a Plasterboard box/coffin for cutting on, cut a sheet in half 600mm length ways, then score 600mm in, snap and fold, screw a piece of timber on all 4 corners, then screw together to make a box.. place your boards on so your not working on the floor cutting.. also boardmates.. your can get them on ebay for £7 are really handy for boarding ceilings by yourself.. Dewalt collated screwgun is a great bit of kit for the price, just as good as a hilti for less than half the cost👍
Just after I finished the last of the plaster work in my current house, I was at Bunnings (hardware store here) and saw a collated screw gun on the run-out items table. I said to wifey, "that would have been handy doing the ceiling". Next thing you know I'm walking out of the store before she could change her mind when she said you should get it.... no backsie's, I'm outta here 🤣
I don't know if it's just the screwfix screws I get but I always get metal splinters from plasterboard screws. pretty much the only job I wear gloves for just to avoid them.
I do like these more 'basic' videos. Perhaps more for the DIYer - Screwfix do a good 1.2m T square (Magusson) for cutting plasterboard, it is riveted sp you need to check for square when you buy but mine was square and at the time I was surprised how cheap it was, a decent straight edge for plywood etc too as can be hooked like a speedsquare.
Carpet fitter friend of mine always had a wet stone/sharpening stone in his pocket to save on blades. It'll surprise you long they can last with just a quick lick over
Once converted a large bedroom into a bathroom dividing the room into a large shower room with an equally large walk in airing cupboard and bathroom. After erecting stud walls to produce the required rooms which gave us perfectly flat walls on which to tile the client decided he would insulate the wall between airing cupboard and shower and pumped expanding foam into the gaps between studs. By the time we arrived the following day to commence tiling the foam had expanded in lumps which bowed the plasterboard and caused so much damage the boards had to be removed, foam cleaned out and wall re-boarded. Not a good idea for expanding foam.
Yeah, definitely don't use expanding foam, it will pop the screws within minutes/hours. If using an adhesive I would only use a gun grade PU or polymer adhesive of some sort.
Rent a decent ( hilti) collated screw gun if doing a lot of plasterboard on to studwork / ceilings. Edit: you beat me to it, you didn't mention why you are not using it though? Edit edit: No need for a plasterboard lift as long as you can reach the ceiling from small steps. Working on your own, make up a pair of T's with a 1200ish long T and the leg slightly longer than your floor to ceiling height. Lean one up against the wall with a slight gap to ceiling, and the other within arm's reach. Lift the board, tuck one end above the first T, hold sheet up with one hand then grab second t and wedge the board. Easter to do than to explain. If working in a large room away from the wall, you just wedge the first T against the ceiling with it wedges leaning towards where the next sheet will go, leaving a small gap to tuck the end of the sheet in to, likewise have the other T within arm's reach. I have plasterboard the ceilings of a 3 bed house like this on my own and it's super easy and quicker than a plaster board lift. Edit edit edit: You can grind up plasterboard yourself to use as a soil improver, just don't put too much and produce poisonous gas. Pritty sure I read that a wood chipper works fine but ymmv
Hi Tim, i am filling in an archway between our lounge and dining room. how much space do you recommend to leave for a skimming coat of plaster? 2-3mm - so if i build the stud wall with 15mm space for plasterboard (12.5mm) and skimming?
@@TheRestorationCouple Ah ok, that makes sense. I think there is a chance your views might be confused as to the final location of the new dwelling and how you will perform the move of the two halfs. The build so far has been immaculate from a construction point of view.
15:17 Roger @ Skillbuilder did a video once saying how plasterboard gives off hydrogen sulphide if it goes to landfill, just wondered if you'd looked into this in any detail?
@@TheRestorationCouple I guess in your location it won't be an issue, apparently it's quite toxic and reason why you can't put it in a skip, glad to see the progress you're making.
Sure... plasterboard tip: Have someone else do it! It's a pain and not worth what you save in time vs money unless you work a minimum wage job, in which case: get good and become a plasterer to double your income. A professional plasterer can do the work in half the time and leave a better result than you can. Your time is valuable and you only get it once, so use it wisely.
Worth mentioning that we are using panelling on the ceilings otherwise. we would have boarded that first. 👍
As a Dryliner
My only problem is Damp on Site
I WALK OFF SITE IF THE BOARDS ARE WET/DAMP
I Don't use Single Screws. I use Screw Strips= Less Hand work.
Although 90% is Double Ply for Soundproofing.
Nice to see a Regular person attempting Studded Walls👍
EDIT
Only 1 thing.....Rough edge too the Floor.
Rough edge is now hidden by Skirting rail👍
As a plasterer... the sharper the blade, the more itll go off course, also u dnt need to cut a 3rd of way? Judt score the paper and itll give u a cleaner cut aswell
Agree, blunt blades are fine, if it stats to drag just lower the angle of the knife.
Also i find that a light score underneath after snapping the board allows the cut section to break off cleaner leaving a flatter raw edge.
@@welshherow2603it’s when it starts taking the paper with it it needs a change. I hate a fresh blade
Fantastic set of tips! Impeccable timing as I'm just about to start a stud wall and drywalling project. I'll be buying those drywall bits momentarily. A tips video on taping and jointing wouldn't go a miss 😜
I bought a brand new drywall lifter a few years ago off Ebay for about £100. I used it to lift a dozen boards and then I sold it again on Ebay. I thought that even if I only got half of what I bought it for then it would still be cheaper than hiring one. The winning bid was just over £125 ! I thought it was crazy, someone bidding for a second hand item for more than they could buy a brand new one. BUT.... it got even crazier. The guy who bought it lived in the same town where i had got it from in the first place, and then driven his Range rover from Essex to Staffordshire and back, a round trip of over 250 miles!!!!
Getting yourself a fluffy dog to help with the dust. That cracked me up 🤣🤣🤣👍👍
Was screaming DWANGS there! Glad you had it hahahahaha!
Great video Tim. My tip is to put your plaster board stack on some trestles so you don’t have to work on your hands and knees. And get a big 1.2m square
he already knows this. He said he PREFERS putting on the ground... it's actually quicker to cut it this way.
but yes, it is more back work.
When I was doing a lot of plaster boarding during a home renovation I picked up an inexpensive aluminium L angle. Perfect for using as a cutting guide and is 2.5m in length. Use it all the time now as get much more accurate cuts / lines.
I always do the ceiling first. That way the plasterboard on the walls holds the edges of the ceiling boards in place. If you don't they can sag, especially the 9mm stuff, and that looks unsightly and more prone to cracks along the corner.
Yep, ceilings first. Just not in this case as there is no PB going on ceilings.
Tim. When gluing plaster board and using less fixings. You should consider using temporary fixing blocks in areas you ultimately do not want screws. Plaster board is flexible and can bow when you fix around the edges, that causes hollow spots in the centre. Temporary fixings stop that happening. Use off cuts of plasterboard in squares as large washers to spread the load and screw through those to you wall. Once the glues is dry remove the temporary fixings (yes there are small holes to patch but it's better than a loose and holow wall. I hope that helps D
Thanks for this I am about to tackle this job, going down the drylining route too
I go round with a square and quickly mark the centre of the studs on the floor. That way if your putting up anything on the walls like cupboards etc it’s quick to find the studs. Also you can place the laser line on it when the plasterboard covers over the stud.
Good tip. Magnet every time for finding studs. 👍
Timing could not be better! Just about to start my own, cheers 👍👍
Perfect!
One thing I liked to do when fitting boards horizontally on top of eachother was to lay a temporary 2mm spacer between the boards so that the join wasn't under the strain of the top board.
Yep, all wallboard manufacturers recommend a small gap 2/3mm between boards. Rarely see it done though, bit of a faff
raising the plasterboards (or any boards) off of the floors is more than anything to avoid the stepsound transferring into the walls.
I going out to buy myself a fluffy dog before I begin my next project. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for all the tips - Really appreciated. Maggie wants to join in fitting plaster boards 🙂
I looked at gypsum when I had a garden with clay rich soil that didn't drain too easily. It may not be drainage you're concerned with - sand as well will help if you've got leftovers - I grew marjoram and tarragon at the top of a slope a while back and sand and gypsum were about right for the requirements.
The 5 acre hill field is very compacted and we shot a video testing the soil recently about the low levels of calcium there so a combo of gypsum and mechanical opening of the ground was recommended.
Brilliant Timbo, we’ll done. And we’ll done Maggie too for be in big support dog.
Calcium sure, but sulphate is what it's used for as a fertiliser. Quite the colourful history fought over gypsum, an interesting read if you want! Thanks for the tips all the same 👍🏼
Tip number 11. Make sure you score along the right side of the spirit level. I'm sure I haven't had my last time of putting a nice score line following the indentation of the bubble 😡
Totally agree on the plasterboard lift, I struggled my way through all the ceilings in my house with just me and my old man up a tower. I never got on with those drywall bits personally, the ones I had still seamed to go too deep and obscured your view so you couldn't stop short, just went with the old fashioned PH2's in the end. I actually quite like using an impact on a lower power, much lighter working overhead.
Yeah a lift is a must, especially on 3m+ ceilings like our old house. Perhaps some bits deeper than others, I know you can buy adjustable depth collars too which might help. 👍
@@TheRestorationCouple The pain when the plasterer said I could have borrowed his lift for free when he came to skim was real 😅
Make yourself a Plasterboard box/coffin for cutting on, cut a sheet in half 600mm length ways, then score 600mm in, snap and fold, screw a piece of timber on all 4 corners, then screw together to make a box.. place your boards on so your not working on the floor cutting.. also boardmates.. your can get them on ebay for £7 are really handy for boarding ceilings by yourself.. Dewalt collated screwgun is a great bit of kit for the price, just as good as a hilti for less than half the cost👍
When you're taping the joints put the tape in water as you use it. It adheres better, you don't want it too dry
oh
Just after I finished the last of the plaster work in my current house, I was at Bunnings (hardware store here) and saw a collated screw gun on the run-out items table. I said to wifey, "that would have been handy doing the ceiling". Next thing you know I'm walking out of the store before she could change her mind when she said you should get it.... no backsie's, I'm outta here 🤣
When you're boarding the ceiling use a scaffold, couple of stools and a Planck is quick and easy
I don't know if it's just the screwfix screws I get but I always get metal splinters from plasterboard screws. pretty much the only job I wear gloves for just to avoid them.
Me too
Great point, those black bits stay in your skin for ages!
Like your video
I do like these more 'basic' videos. Perhaps more for the DIYer - Screwfix do a good 1.2m T square (Magusson) for cutting plasterboard, it is riveted sp you need to check for square when you buy but mine was square and at the time I was surprised how cheap it was, a decent straight edge for plywood etc too as can be hooked like a speedsquare.
Thanks - very helpful
Great video
Awesome progres
Carpet fitter friend of mine always had a wet stone/sharpening stone in his pocket to save on blades. It'll surprise you long they can last with just a quick lick over
Our. carpet fitter used to do exactly the same and must have saved ££'s each year,
@@TheRestorationCouple I wa about to offer that tip!!
Love your work 👍
No insulation in the internals? You will be able to have comversations between rooms pretty well in this place
Yes all insulated. Just not this room screen by the door. 👍
Plaster board screw have sharp slithers that will go in to your fingers and break off use glove to prevent this
johny sins as a dryliner
You do not put board on the bottom of stud first.First board goes uptight to ceiling. This gives you
Once converted a large bedroom into a bathroom dividing the room into a large shower room with an equally large walk in airing cupboard and bathroom. After erecting stud walls to produce the required rooms which gave us perfectly flat walls on which to tile the client decided he would insulate the wall between airing cupboard and shower and pumped expanding foam into the gaps between studs. By the time we arrived the following day to commence tiling the foam had expanded in lumps which bowed the plasterboard and caused so much damage the boards had to be removed, foam cleaned out and wall re-boarded. Not a good idea for expanding foam.
Yeah, definitely don't use expanding foam, it will pop the screws within minutes/hours. If using an adhesive I would only use a gun grade PU or polymer adhesive of some sort.
Very helpful 👌 Thanks
Rent a decent ( hilti) collated screw gun if doing a lot of plasterboard on to studwork / ceilings.
Edit: you beat me to it, you didn't mention why you are not using it though?
Edit edit:
No need for a plasterboard lift as long as you can reach the ceiling from small steps. Working on your own, make up a pair of T's with a 1200ish long T and the leg slightly longer than your floor to ceiling height. Lean one up against the wall with a slight gap to ceiling, and the other within arm's reach. Lift the board, tuck one end above the first T, hold sheet up with one hand then grab second t and wedge the board. Easter to do than to explain.
If working in a large room away from the wall, you just wedge the first T against the ceiling with it wedges leaning towards where the next sheet will go, leaving a small gap to tuck the end of the sheet in to, likewise have the other T within arm's reach. I have plasterboard the ceilings of a 3 bed house like this on my own and it's super easy and quicker than a plaster board lift.
Edit edit edit:
You can grind up plasterboard yourself to use as a soil improver, just don't put too much and produce poisonous gas.
Pritty sure I read that a wood chipper works fine but ymmv
Knauf screws Tn25 camed with PH bit in box. But not like this drywall bit. Lifespan +-1000screws from 1 bit🤷♂️
Great video with loads of helpful tips! what glue do you use on the plasterboard?
Acrylic stud adhesive...
Hi Tim, i am filling in an archway between our lounge and dining room. how much space do you recommend to leave for a skimming coat of plaster? 2-3mm - so if i build the stud wall with 15mm space for plasterboard (12.5mm) and skimming?
Another great video - quick question, no soundproof/ insulation inside the stud?
Just between all the bedrooms and bathrooms, that was just a room divider by the entrance. 👍
@@TheRestorationCouple Ah ok, that makes sense. I think there is a chance your views might be confused as to the final location of the new dwelling and how you will perform the move of the two halfs. The build so far has been immaculate from a construction point of view.
15:17 Roger @ Skillbuilder did a video once saying how plasterboard gives off hydrogen sulphide if it goes to landfill, just wondered if you'd looked into this in any detail?
Not looked in to it myself but it makes sense to recycle as it has so many uses. 👍
@@TheRestorationCouple I guess in your location it won't be an issue, apparently it's quite toxic and reason why you can't put it in a skip, glad to see the progress you're making.
´Super 😻😻😻😻😻😻 💯💯💯👍👍👍👍👍👍
Internal partitions should achieve and Rw of 40 dB minimum. And generally hit 30min fire rating. This partition wont hit either of those targets.
It’s a caravan
Not skimming to keep the weight down hahahhahahaha.mite aswell just have them Japanese style paper walls 🙄
Sure... plasterboard tip: Have someone else do it! It's a pain and not worth what you save in time vs money unless you work a minimum wage job, in which case: get good and become a plasterer to double your income. A professional plasterer can do the work in half the time and leave a better result than you can. Your time is valuable and you only get it once, so use it wisely.
I think you missed this channel's tag line. 😂
Don't attach boards to noggins!!!
Why?
@@charlieshwan5574 differential expansion and contraction of the studs and noggins may lead to cracking of joins and popping of fixing heads
This is painful to watch , so many mistakes , leave it to the professionals lad
Too much talking and not enough wofking!
Pro tip: use pallet jacks dont lay them on the floor