How to plasterboard a garden room ceiling on your own
Vložit
- čas přidán 2. 01. 2022
- Firstly, Happy new Year.
We are back to work and as its a bank holiday we are a couple of team members down. I watched a video last night of a ceiling getting boarded and thought you might be interested in the option of doing it solo.
Ive knocked up a couple of 'T' props and this with a little bit of puffing and panting has allowed me to board the room ceiling on my own.
We are using 12.5mm plasterboards and 38mm plasterboard screws.
The light holes are drilled with a 70mm hole saw and that's about it!
If your going to give this a go, watch your head if the prop slips or rope in a friend🙂
If you don't already subscribe, please do as we are giving away a free drill if we hit 70K.
Thanks as always - Jak na to + styl
Happy New Year everyone. The live event was great. Well done :-)
Thank you, we are going to try do one a month on a weekend so hopefully your not working
Great work Liam. Always a joy to watch you work.
Coming along nicely 👍👍👍
i've got one of those DADE (dust and debris eliminator) things for drilling holes in plasterboards
brilliant bits of kit and saves all the clean up if you are standing underneath 😁
Brilliant great to watch happy new year to you all
This is the way I’ve always plasterboarded in the past.
Really needed this one, thanks!
I don’t think anyone would pretend this is a better way than having someone else to help you but if you’re working alone it’s good to see what your options are! Likewise you can buy special tools for everything but it all adds up and if you’re only using it once it might not be the best use of your money. Keep up the good work 👍
I’m new to your channel, and I’m loving it….. got to be one of the best on here. Thank you and your staff for great content
Happy new year to you William and to the team. Props to you all🙈
Happy New year 🎉 plenty more live videos great team 👏
Thanks Liam and the team! Useful as always! hopefully not to far from plaster boarding mine now! Looks like you might have a witch issue at the end there though!
I remember doing this on my yts scheme at Lincoln college circa 1990 lol.... Proper skill
its been a long time mate, tbh, its a small room so not to bad. Backs just holding out. couldn't imagine doing it with nails and a hammer😳
@@thegardenroomguru blood hell that's right... No wonder I gave up plastering and switched to carpentry...I thought I was gonna loaded like Harry Enfields plasterer loadsa money 🤣🤣
Probably would be now mate, scary rates 😢
Thank you
When you put the level on the board, instead of marking it run the knife down it. Saves you drawing the line and then going down again with the knife.
Another great video liam .Great job on the ceiling. Which brings me to my next point.......lol......
I sat on the settee over Xmas one day and I happened to look up at the ceiling that i boarded earlier. I thought to myself... " it may not be the best ceiling out there, but it's up there., "
Sorry my attempt at a joke. Best wishes.
Props are best made from batten, they are light weight and the bend in the batten helps spring them into place. You can buy props which are cheap and worth having.
I don't need them mate, generally others on site to hold whilst screwed
@@thegardenroomguru Fair enough, I usually work alone. I also use them for dot dabbing reveal headers and they make great temporary shelves for tools.
The T prop's get easier the More you use them, Welcome Back to the Grind, won't be long before U lose the Christmas Ponch , Happy New Year
🤣
Hi Liam, I have build garden room( cold roof)
Today I have noticed there is a mold just above vented soffit, you know maybe what can cause mold on plywood all around vented soffit, it’s absolutely fine inside the room
Another great one Liam, as an aside I plaster boarded a kitchen ceiling on my own just before Christmas
25 kg 12.5 mm plasterboard 60 mm bugle headed screws going over old lath&plaster nearly killed myself as I’ve only got one leg and am in my sixties !! Only just recovered and now have arms like popeyes !!
Real men don't ask for help
@@martinsteel9375
That’s why I didn’t !!!
That's taking ot to the extreme on one leg well done
@@martinsteel9375 cheers martin
Thanks Liam and team, really helpful advice, especially as I will be working alone when I do my plasterboard ceiling. One question please, I also use mainly Makita tools and was looking at buying a power driver for the build...but there are loads of sizes and options. Which size do you tend to use please for garden office builds? Thanks Peter
Use a small one for the ceiling plasterboard - i just use a 10.7V (12V) dewalt drill nice and light but still plenty of speed+torque
Any advise of neck pain/injuries prevention while working in the field please?
Hi mate, just wondering what company you use for your rubber roofing system? Thanks
When drilling the holes for the lights, did you also penetrate the vapor barrier? Isn't that a problem and if so, how to fix that?
Thank you for all the information detailed in your videos.
I have a question about the roof slope. On a 2.5m front to back span, how high should the front wall be compared to the rear?
Depends on your local building regulations. Normally I believe it's 1cm per metre if you're using a rubber roof.
I use 25mm per metre, so front wall 62.5mm higher than back
Dont you have the large T squares over there for cutting dry wall?
As for the kicker, for holding the drywall in place, or even heavy kitchen wall cabinets, they work, but still require lifting the drywall before using the kicker.
With a very low ceiling such as the one in the video it is a bit easier, but none the less the drywall lifts are a much better thing to use.
They can even be used for hanging the sheets on the walls.
Hi guys loving the channel keep up all the good work!!! I wanted to ask (i get the cold roof and hybrid etc..) why do you not completely fill the roof with insulation? Why leave a small gap? Is that for air flow... the gap that is the ambient temperature of the room...
Many Thanks
I'm curious about this too... i get the vapour barrier concept but i'm not a fan of stagnant air - there is no flow cos its closed at the ends and by the noggins. I guess difficult to get all the air out due to tolerance of timber and PIR but ideally you'd want to minimise the volume of trapped air as this is the root cause of the issue when this warm air has a temperature reduction (so minimse the volume of moisture/condensation). Maybe cost of thick PIR to meet the timber size is not justified by small amount of condensation.
@@mgastra yeah I get where your coming from mate... what I've got is the loft insulation rolls, so wanted to use that and thought how would I create a gap? So if no gap is needed I can just fill the roof with it!! 🙃
Another great video Liam, just wanted to thank you for sharing your knowledge, I'm 2/3 the way through my own build with no previous experience, couldn't have done it without your excellent videos. Just wondered what type / size tek screws you use to fix the batten to the bottom of Kingspan panels? Thanks again 👍
Plasterboard screws mate, if your on about the roofing battens to the insulated kingspan roofing panels? They get a good grip
@@thegardenroomguru thanks, yes I was referring to fixing the batten into the Kingspan, just wondered if there's a particular size of tek screw you use?
Not tech screws mate, just plaster board screws, we used 50mm if I remember correctly, just drive them straight in. There’s a video of me doing chin ups off them somewhere. I’m 12.5 stone so they are sufficient
@@thegardenroomguru awesome thanks mate 👍
When marking the layout of the plasterboard, you did use a permanent marker? Will that not be a problem when painting? The permanent marker can bleed through the paint? But you are going to plaster the plasterboard, so this time it won't be an issue.
Nice. Can you lay the boards horizontally if you've got an old fked up lath and plaster Stud wall where all the studs are wonky and bent!? They also have cross braces too. The boards won't fall on the studs when laid vertically? Or should I attach them vertically and cut to size (stud)?
Thanks
We are currently doing a refurb and will be over boarding old lath and new plaster ceilings, I’m dropping a video later tonight and talking about it, there’ll be a video next week showing it 👌
Are you still doing the build packs ? Thanks
yes mate. www.oakwoodgardenrooms.com/new-products/63a55zuc75kc8kqiool0s4bkxrb76i
I live in Tolworth Surrey and would like to build 6mtr x 4mtr garden shed/workshop, however not sure if I need any permissions. Maybe someone here knows about it. Many thanks in advance
Do you screw either side of a joint? Or screw in the middle to hold both boards?
It looked like you were putting the screws in the joint between the boards on a few of them.
Seperate screw in each side. Single screw would not hold cos head not big enough to span gap + 2boarss, any small movement would allow plasterboard to tear and drop
@@mgastra thanks Mark
Hi Iiam, think your rooms are amazing, I'm not a joiner, I'm building a 4.8m x 3.5. The only thing is for the time being my other half wants to use it for a dog grooming parlour, which means getting plumed in as well as electrics. My question is, will your roof work with condensation or do I need a warm roof, it will be single occupancy but single occupancy will be a single dog 😂 and unfortunately not a pool table... could you possibly cover this, cheers bud
Might want to consider an extractor fan when washing/showering to get most of it out while its air-bourne.
@@mgastra thanks bud, will look into that.
What kind of plasterboard ? Tapered or straight edge pls ?
Tapered for dry linning, but tbh i use tapered with paper joint tape and still skim. No chance of that ever cracking compared to mesh
Do the edges of the plasterboard need to be supported, between the joists/rafters where the plasterboard butts together?
No mate
@@thegardenroomguru Great, thank you, that saves me a lot of time and money. All the forums say they need supporting all the way round!
@@thegardenroomguru Great work by the way. It's not easy while others stand and take the piss like that!
@michaelbirchall2247 no mate, it’s not true, this is how it’s done ,
Instead of marking the line on the board then cutting, why not just run the knife down the straight edge? Just saves times and 1 less thing to do.
Just use a 6x3 hold them up One hand
why use plastic on the ceiling wouldn't it cause condensation?
It called a dead man
Dead men as we called them 😂
The greed is unreal you guys working every single day 😂 only so long you can be at home though
Greed👀🤣your joking, I’m there because I have jobs that need completing, and the rest are there because they have had enough of being sat on their arses 👌, only so much drinking and eating you can do
Do you not work mondays kid?
Working every single day isn’t greed it’s called hard work lol work hard, play hard
Invest in a screw gun
too many bad reviews on Makita mate and im not going down another route 😔
@@thegardenroomguru using a Festool one, but when l had a load of floors to do bout the Simpson Quik-drive attachment. (At the time they didn't do an adapter for Festool) do machined down a Makita one. Anyway the Simpson system is so much better because the screws are held in the belt so much more securely. And you get an extension do you can screw floors standing up. 🎯😉
Vapor barrier is not the right one should be green... plus when the plaster board goes on you burst your Vapor barrier with the screws... silly
It ain't rocket science, let's see you plaster it then
I’m not sure your getting the point james
If you've done this sort of thing before then it may not be rocket science to you. For me, I've never done platerboarding but will be doing it alone this year... so the video provides valuable tips for me.