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Why You Should Upgrade Your 2JZ Timing Belt Tensioner Bracket - Real Street
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- čas přidán 12. 01. 2021
- Today, We go over our Real Street 2JZ, 2JZGTE, and 2JZGE Bushed Billet Aluminum Timing Belt Tensioner Bracket. We show you how it compares to a OEM tensioner bracket and aftermarket billet steel tensioner bracket. This product is easy to install, We show you how to do that as well.
To learn more, visit the link below.
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Whoever disliked this video just can't afford one. Anyone who knows Jay, know that he kows his stuff & he also has a business to run. All he's doing is giving good advice that is worthwhile, whilst pushing a part that could save some of you a lot of money in the long run.
Having owned a MKIV Supra with a 2JZGTE for over two decades now I can confirm there will be jealous haters everywhere you go. Be careful.
Thanks for the support. It happens.
This is 2 years late but (estimating price) $200 vs inevitable overhaul from a failure. I know what I'm choosing.
I dig the edit of the parts being removed lol. I will be getting this real soon 👍🤘
Awesome, thanks Chris
Jay , as soon as I win this huge Lotto. I'm having you build me 20 2jz engines. 🤑🤑🤑🤑🏁🏁💯 Seriously guys this guy is awesome, and if you remember Jay I bought a set of USDM cams from you for my Jdm engine a few years ago because I wanted a little more power. Wow look how far we've come. 💯🏁🏁🏁🏁
Awesome! lets do it! haha. Good to hear from you
I bought my Billet Timing Tensioner back in 2018 from Real Street Performance; still going strong on my 2JZGTE swapped Mk3 Supra. 👊😎
Awesome! thanks for the support
@@realstreetperformance For sure!
Great video. Channel needs to grow.
Thanks Thomas, a share would go a long way towards helping get the word out!
Adding this to my cart on the site now! Thanks J, I love the attention to detail!
Thanks for the support Eric, im glad we were able to help
Already upgraded mine when I was doing the timing belt! Good to get the knowledge out there!
Yup I know that's how you're gonna build my engine 😎👌🏽
Thanks for the info, really glad you guys are in florida
our pleasure. Thanks for the support
Thanks for the info, i was always wondering what was the issues with the tensioners.
Jay thank you for making this video like you read my damn mind. I was on the site just yesterday and was looking at the write up and it made some sense but makes way more sense with this video! Kudos keep them coming.! Also didn’t know about small increments on resetting the grenade pin
Thanks for sharing, im glad this video was able to help
Good Video, It's really good to see you guys making some of this style of content again. Love it Love it. Great* Video 😉
Thanks Bjorn, working on more content weekly now
I got a paper clip and a rubber band so I should be good on low boost
LOL
Why didn't you upload this 24hrs ago BEFORE I ordered my cams and springs off you guys?! 😂👍
@MafiaboysWorld I was thinking the same thing bro. I just spent 5600 on rebuilding my 2JZ and about go back to buy this and some more stuff I need that 1000hp
@@evo8stunna Bro, I passed into 5 figures on my 1JZ a little while ago. Billet Main Caps, CP Pistons with .250" pins, Spool Rods, ARP studs, ATI damper, TWO GT2860RS turbos, 840cc injectors, the whole bottle of jam. 😎👍
Sorry guys, we just added some media staff to get content out faster. We will turn up the boost on our media production for you lol
Billet tensioners have been around for years, you should check out some old threads on supraforums. A wealth of information on parts and builds, Mark Conte the managing partner of Real Street is also a member and has provided a ton of feedback over the years.
Very educational. Thanks!
Love these kinda videos
Thanks for letting us know. We will keep it up
Wish i knew about loctite on that pivot bolt. I just did my t belt today
Why use anti-seize on that bolt instead of maybe a moly lube or something else that will last long enough for the service interval of that belt. Anti-seize has pieces of silica in it doesn't it? I was always told not to use anti-seize as a lubricant on moving parts because it will act as almost a lapping compound. Over time it might open up the ID of that tensioner. Don't know if that might cause a problem.
You're right, your comment is way underrated
Great part. Have you thought about designing a mechanical device which attaches to a shifter that could be use to avoid money shifting on race day?
Actually yes, We have 2 different designs in development at the moment.
Great advise like always!
Thank you Jose
That happened in the stealth I picked up in Oregon
I’ve built an engine listening to Pink Floyd and it now wouldn’t surprise me if you guys have 😉
Got mine through Longboost performance the Ross performance billet alloy one. It’s black ;)
The Ross one looks nice. We prefer to use a bushing in ours.
2:45 when you say, if you don’t put sealant did you mean the loctite? I’m getting ready to do my timing belt/water pump job and I knew that Toyota called for sealant on this shoulder bolt but I didn’t know where to put said sealant so I thought it was just loctite they were after.. (?)
Ross Racing does a similar part for the people in Australia.
Theirs looks nice, we prefer to use a bushing in ours
@@realstreetperformance yeah I agree, if only I knew you guys did this part, I would have got them shipped over
Not happy with the Ross part. My engine builder told me It needs to be honed. Instead I bought a new phr one with the pressed insert (Just like this one). Probably better in the long run.
I mean there is a groove to hold a small ammount of grease so that there is never corrosion or rust on that bolt
I have a stripped hole where the person over torqued the bolt in the hole
What's the advantage of this tensioner over OEM? I can see you explain why it's better than aftermarket tensioners, but not the factory one. Thanks
Bro, he mentioned that it's a stronger construction and less prone to breakage and the brass bush prevents stuck pins
@@krispykruzer he's comparing it to billet steel aftermarket tensioners. Not genuine Toyota tensioners
The OEM one breaks in half, so an aftermarket one is necessary.
hey whats up, What about Oil Accumulators for DIY engine builds?
Do i have to put the piston on tdc and take off the belt. Or i can take it off as it sits and just slip it back on after installation?
@ 2:46 by sealant you mean like toyota fipg or threadlocker type sealant?
Thread locker on the bolt shown. Hope this helps, thanks!
I imagine this will work on a 1jz as well
There are slight differences in the shape of the 1JZ and 2JZ brackets.
The pulleys are the same though.
If you are looking for a billet 1JZ tensioner, Driftmotion and Ross Performance both make one
@@brianwhedon8442
interesting but i think for what my goals are it probably isnt needed. im only looking to make 450-500. maybe 600 down the line when i upgrade the fuel pump and front mount.
I've been told these are needed if you run a kevlar timing belt. And that makes sense since those put more stress on the tensioner brackets than rubber belts do. If you use OEM Toyota belts the stock brackets are supposedly ok until like 800hp.
Don't take this as fact, please research and ask your local engine builder to figure out what part you need for your build
I heard the smaller aftermarket camshafts like the HKS 262 kept the engine a non interference is that true?
Do I need that little black plastic piece on the tensioner? Totally lost mine.
Почти ничего не понял,но лайк поставлю и подпишусь))))
I need help, I have a gs300 (2jzge) with 160k miles and I did the change of the timing belt myself with the cam and canshaft seals and now that I have it without the cover I see that the belt on the side that does not have the Tensioner when I accelerate it and the rpm is lowering it shakes like half an inch, I changed the tensioner and nothing, the vvti gear looked off center like for a millimeter I removed it and I put it back and nothing, I don't know what it could be or if it is normal, if someone knows please help, by the way the vvti continued ofcenter if it is not normal the same, someone tell me 🙏 very good channel, you learn a lot
Hello Abraham, the side of the belt that's not tensioned (Intake side of the engine) will have movement in the belt. I assure you it's like this on engines without gears and to some degree a chain. You can think of this movement as the belt exhausting harmonics that have been driven into the system. If you want to see a really ugly visual watch a high powered motorcycle chain in slow motion during a launch. IF this movement wasn't present on the belt the energy you see making your belt flap would be available to damage something. The people that add idlers to remove this "slop" in the belt are often rewarded with broken cam gears or sheared dowels. As long as you followed the service manual instructions you will be fine. Thanks
@@jaymeagher1510 hello Jay, Thank you for responding so quickly👍, I was walking with my car trying not to pass 2000rpm and as fast as I saw your comment I started to drive normally reaching 5000rpm and so far everything is fine, thanks👍
Do you have to put it in TDC or can just swap it as it sits?
Hey Jay just to confirm Non-int, its all 2j's except the na vvti that are non-int correct? But once they have a gte headgasket, it allows the extra clearance yeah? Convoluted info on the forums.
All GE are int. GTE and GTE VVT-i are non-int.
Knowledge.
Thanks for commenting
How long is the "relatively short amount of time" before that steel one without a bronze insert corroded? I have just bought a steel one in the UK, and I am now worried it won't last long.
Great video as always :) cheers
take out the bolt and clean it regularly
@@carlosbarrera6348 well, this is what I mean...how regularly, are we talking like 2 months, or 5 years before corrosion starts. If anything I would rather send the one I have back and buy a real st. one.
@@BassInterrogation use anti sieze, youll be good for many yrs
Will this also work with 2jzgte vvti
Stay safe🙏🙏🔥
Oooooooo I want this. How much shipped to Australia?
The tensioner is $249.99 USD at the moment. If you go to our site and add to cart and select australia it will give you a shipping quote. I just tried zip code 2000 as an example and the least expensive option is DHL for $30.78 USD
380 shipped to Perth wa
How do lock washers still exist
I read somewhere the 2JZ is a non interference engine?
Thats exactly what he said in the video .... pay attention
@@ACommenterOnCZcams I rarely get to the end of the video. I was merely asking for clarification as, the VVTI is an interference engine so STFU.
Can you explain why steel tensioner with brass bush isnt a good idea??
As long as you’re not mating steel to steel I think that having the brass bushing is a great idea, it’s functionality is the same, but the aftermarket piece from real street is just built stronger.
IT WILL ADD 700HP. 😂😂😂😂
Is it JUST FOR THE GTE or do you make em for the GE model as well (IS300 2JZ MODELS)?