Creality Ender 3 V3 SE - Configuration and Review-Awesome Printer-Great Price
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2023
- I go through the set up process for this printer and the main features. Then I show some of the test prints.
This printer is the best beginner printer in it's segment. The auto bed leveling, direct drive, dual z rods, LCD display and more make this a printer that is hard to beat for someone new to 3D printing or a professional/hobbyist looking for a machine to print PLA and PETG.
Perfect First Layer Podcast - perfectfirstlayer.com
Also on Apple Podcasts, Spotify and other podcast apps.
Purchase the Ender 3 V3 SE printer:
amzn.to/3QWnBCI - Jak na to + styl
I just got one of these for my first printer (excluding a Solidoodle I bought 10 years ago and promptly got rid of)
This has been a dream to learn with! So easy to set up, and I got near perfect prints first time as a complete noob. Love it.
Thanks for the vid!
Great to hear!
THANK YOU!!! I"ve been struggling with this printer, my first, for over a week with terrible results. Just seeing you print the XYZ cube was a big help, and now I have duplicated that and have a better feel for the settings to use. Great video. Thanks again!
Great to hear!
This is the only good review of this printer on CZcams. Thanks!
Wow, thanks!
Wonderful video! I decided to research these as my small IIIP printer I got from a 3D printing class died on me last year. This video shows me everything I wanted to know and has me comfortable with my decision. Thank you!!
Thanks! It's a great printer for the $$$
Brought 1 today, absolutely incredible for the price. I was blown away
Great machine for the $$$!
Still holding up good?
Very informative for me, a new user. I found the video well done and very helpful. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Looks like Crowley hit it out of the park with this one. $200 for all the quality of life upgrades is great for the industry
I didn't know Alastair Crowley was into 3D printing LOL
fyi, its creality
@@Aimless1337 listen harder. those extra syllables are optional
@@Aimless1337FYI, It's humour!
HaHa. Spell check is awesome! Thanks for watching and the comment!
Thanks for this video! Great prep for the arrival of my V3 SE, currently sitting in a local FedEx warehouse while a cold wet Labor Day slowly drags on.
Have fun with it when you get it!
Great review, this printer looks very interesting, good evolution
Truly impressive for the price!
@@GuysShopit really is. I was going to add a Sprite pro, CR touch and v2 screen to a used Pro I picked up for $60. (W/ a 4.2.2 board). For the price of those mods I got this whole damn machine with a speed that still beats my others. I’m hoping it’s low price point might force the price down on accessories like the sprite
Thank you for showing us how to assembly you really helped
Glad it helped!
Nice review Guy. I just ordered one of these to replace my Ender 3 Pro. It's only a small upgrade but it'll remove the headache of keeping the bed leveled and removing some of the errors and failed prints I've had.
Hope you enjoy it!
I unboxed mine yesterday. After struggling with under-adhesion on my Voxelab Aquila X2 for the past few weeks I bought an X3 - which was a big disappointment and went back to Amazon. After which I got this Ender 3 v3 SE - it is a wonderful machine. It delivers all the ease of use and auto configuration one could wish for! Although I mut find a way to load filament without making a dog-turd mess on my build plate - It wouldn't happen if the 'extrude' menu option held the head higher.
great job,,,,, now i will open this one !!!,and get started!!
Have fun!
Got mine today, first printer. Loving it. Loving the price even more, with a sale got it for about $170.
Wow! That's a great price. Glad you like it!
I got one last saturday and its a real nice make.
It's a really good, easy to use printer!
Bought one, thanx !
Hope you enjoy it!
Thank you very much for the review and greetings from Russia.
Thanks for watching!
It looks like I'm gonna enjoy my upgrade from my temperamental Ender 3 V1
Best review I've seen on this printer, nicely done!! Thanks. Big question for me is whether to wait for the KE?
Thanks! If you want to have klipper, then it might be worth it. This machine works very well just the way it is.
@@GuysShop Not so much for Klipper but filament options. I'll be printing parts that'll be used in a marine environment, so UV and heat are important. I assume the SE would be limiting in this regard and the cost to upgrade it for higher temps might run the cost close to the KE.
Thanks for the detailed video! I'm going to pick one of these up to try out, there are a lot of things I'm excited about on this version, but I really hope Creality doesn't get too proprietary with it's parts. One of the great things about them using the aluminum extrusion framing was the ability to use it as a framework to build on. It kind of defined the 3 series as the go to for tinkerers. This generations feels like they are moving away from that and I think it was a mistake. They are trying to make their most popular printer more friendly for the masses but I think they forgot who's been buying them. If it works and you don't have to tinker with it they will probably be successful but if it still needs the Ender 3 touch of being down to figure it out this thing looks frustrating to work on. I'd love to see a follow up video after you've had time to stress test it and see what you think.
I agree with the statement that changing the extrusions feels like they are "moving away" from the modder crowd. One thing I do know is that modders will always find a way to mod something if they feel the need to.
@@GuysShop Can't argue with you there.
what settings were used for the deadpool
Hi, I also have this printer and it worked fine until a few days when it stopped printing. I had cleaned the nozzle several times, I even changed it with the new one but the problem remains. Do you have any ideas to solve it? Thanks .
Thanks for that great review! I just order one thanks to you! I just have one question, I like printing on borosilicate glass, have you try this type of bed with the autolevel? Or do you know if it can work with it? Thanks a lot!
No, I have not tried the glass bed with this. I'm sure it would work just fine. Thanks for watching!
New Ender 3 V3 SE owner here. Overall having a great experience with this printer. The only issue I have been encountering is with auto-leveling. Sometimes the bed will be 3mm below the nozzle while printing and then sometimes too close to the bed. Doing another level will correct this, but I assume it’s a firmware issue that may be addressed in the future. Thanks for your video on this new 3D printer!
I have not had this same issue with mine. Have you contacted tech support to what might be causing the problem?
@@GuysShop I have not, but will send them a message! I’m curious to see what they say.
@@Potter6061 did you get a reply? I was having this issue too but the auto level did not resolve it so I had to adjust manually to set the z to -2.90 when the nozzle was too far from the bed
@@stephencarothers404 I have not, I’m hoping it can happen again so I can record it and send it in if they ask for proof. I have noticed my z-offset is different each time I do auto leveling and -2.14 is my ideal offset.
@@stephencarothers404 you have to use a gcode command to use the mesh bed leveling settings.
Thanks for the review, having trouble deciding between this and the Neptune 4
klipper is the divider for me
Neptune 4, is what I chose as it has ethernet, can be setup for wireless with usb dongle, and runs klipper out of the box. but has wheels to fine tune bed level...that I dont like but over all the Neptune 4 is a better printer for more advanced users.. though Id get one of these too if I didnt already have 2 others
Have not used the Neptune 4. However I do know that the Neptune is pretty loud and this one is not. I also like the bed leveling on this more. And you can't beat the price.
It should have a profile for the Sonuc Pad soon enough. Then Klipper can be be available.
@@GuysShop louder = better cooling u could always set fans to like 40% and/or turn off the back fans , and still get good cooling, that said ... 150$ for a sonic pad doesn't sound right
Great review, this printer looks awesome.
Thanks! I am very impressed with it.
Man, this thing is loaded. It basically killed the entire aftermarket modding scene for the Ender 3. I got my Ender 3 Pro for $100 a year and a half ago when on sale, and the cost of mods to get it close to the level of the V3 SE would be at least $100, bringing the total cost to $200 like this one. Even after the mods, it would still be missing some of the non upgradeable features like the double rods on the bed and better Z axis design. I know I got a year and a half of use out of my Ender 3 Pro, but it still feels like this is such a huge step up and I missed out.
Creality really upped their game on this budget printer.
I really need some help. I bought my second Creality printer. This time I purchased the Creality Ender 3 VE SE. RIght out of the box the language has been set to Chinese and I am stuck on the Main menu with no choice it seems or going back to the language screen. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Can you print multiple things at once and what is the program name
Great video. Considering this for cheap backup for other printers. Does Creality have an all metal hot end they recommend for this??
I'm not sure what Creality night recommend. However it is a standard sprite hot end and changing the heat break to all metal should be an easy swap out. I haven't taken mine out so I'm not sure if it's threaded or smooth....
Hello Guy! Thanks for the video. Since you've also tested the Artillery Sidewinder X2, (besides the printable size) what are the differences of the two models, and which one do you prefer? I can't decide which one to choose. I would print with PETG, Nylon or similar filaments, with higher durability. Could you please advise? Thank you!
The Ender 3 V3 SE hands down betweeen the two.
Ordered mine before I even look up any reviews cause it seem as good as the higher end ones we have at work but more in my budget
have fun with it!
I just got mine yesterday. I completed two successful prints but now when I go to print something it is far from the bed (about 1cm). I retried the auto-z calibration a few times and it worked fine with great numbers. It is only when I go to print something it doesnt come close enough to the bed
Update: I manually adjusted the z to -2.90 and it worked great. Maybe the frame was moved somewhat during transportation to another room.
@@stephencarothers404 Glad it worked out for you!
I'm a beginner and I'm getting this printer as my first printer in a couple days. My question is, where do you get there test prints like the x y z cube and the others that you showed in this video?
They should be a standard print in the slicer you use. If not, check out printables.com
Nice video! I have an issue (perhaps user error).
So I unpackaged my Ender-3 V3 SE last night. It ran through the cat print test file with no problem. I was so excited so I went to the Thangs website to get something going. I found something, downloaded it as an STL, put it into the Creality slicer (v3.8), and then took the .gcode file and transferred it onto the SD card that came with the printer.
The problem I can't seem to overcome is when I insert that SD card with the .gcode file on it into the printer, nothing shows up in my printable files. Anyone have answers as to why this isn't working?
I've tried Creality slicer v3.8, v3.7, and also Cura. I've exhausted every fix that I know of.
Let me know, thanks!!
Hi! My wife got me an Ender 3 V3 SE for my birthday, I am quite excited! Assembly was really easy and straightforward. The first print I did turned out great! I did notice that when I move the X axis by hand, it feels 'lumpy' when the guide rollers pass over the spots they were in when it was shipped. Flat spots on them maybe, that will hopefully go away? There is nothing in the manual pertaining to proper adjustment of the rollers, so I may have to just figure it out on my own. I've downloaded the Creality Slicer and have run it on Linux Mint, but when I connect the printer to my (older) HP laptop, it doesn't seem to detect the printer, and I only see an option in the Creality Slicer for a 'LAN' connection. Do you know if it's possible to send files to the V3 SE via the USB port, as the V3 SE specs only state SD card for transfers. Is a USB 3.0 port required? Is there a more 'communication friendly' software, like maybe CURA? I am full of questions, but this printer is so new, there are very few answers to be found! I appreciate any insight you may be able to provide!
I have used Octoprint on the model and it worked fine. It is not running the Creality/Klipper software, si it won't connect to a PC through usb
Hey, just curious how has the roller been for you?
Thank you for the great review. Do you think we can move the power supply location to another? (For enclosure etc..)
Yes you can!
So I just recently purchased a ender 3 pro on amazon
And now I'm seeing this ender 3 version 3 SE everywhere, seems like a much better printer than the one I purchased and is the same price I paid, I am within the return window, I am assuming I should make the swap ? Unless there's something I am missing?
Much easier printer to use than the other ender 3 models. I would return it if you still can and get this one.
Regarding a sticky plate - I'm sure everyone already knows something about this but the absolute perfect solution for me has been to lightly apply a bit of Elmer's purple glue stick to the plate and then spread it around with a piece of tissue paper soaked in IPA. More glue stick is added only occasionally, but re-wiping the plate with IPA is done every print - to reestablish an invisible glue layer. Since employing this I've never had a print peel off prematurely, and never had one that wouldn't release readily.
That's a great tip! Thanks!
Instructions unclear, printer smells like stale beer now, just seems like a waste
@@toranamunter No doubt
Quick question about the auto bed leveling; what do I do when the auto bed leveling process is “completed” but some of the values in the 4x4 grid are blue (relatively level) instead of green (level)? Should I manually “edit” these values, or leave them be? I haven’t yet run into any yellow or red values yet, but in the case that I do in the future, what should I do?
I had been researching about which Ender 3d printer to get for 6+ months, and I finally pulled the trigger a week ago and bought the Ender-3 V3 SE. Definitely in the noob phases, although I am really motivated to make 3d printing a major hobby of mine.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated!
Let auto level do it's job and just use the grid they give. If those values result in bad first layers, then it's a problem. But if it works, all is good!
Local store was just selling them on a 4 day sale for $162. Can't beat it for the value. Software in it doesn't seem stable yet though. Had it twice tell me nothing can occur while it waits for the printer and it never came back to the screen. The screen doesn't respond during tasks like leveling or heating up so you cannot cancel a mistaken request. It'd be nice to know what it's up to temperature wise during extrusion tasks instead of just having a color blink on the screen. The software needs a bit of work yet.
That was a pretty good price.
Mine seems wonky too. I lower the fan speed and it shoots up to over 200, happened like 7-8 times before I just gave up and let it finish the print.
Can you tell the STL slicer software that you used and the parameters that you used like temperature, infill %, any overlap infill %. Can you add also thee STRL file at least both cubes?
I used the Creality Print sofware that cam with the printer and sliced at it's default settings. worked great!
@@GuysShop did you do any smaller detailed prints? I have been printing benchys with mine and they are good but not great, some visible struggles with overhangs and some weird uneven sections in the hull
@@jasonbaylor9865 I did not do any prints at the "fine" setting. If there is some issues with the layers, maybe try the initialization/calibration test again might help.
Just wished mine worked it won’t move up or down (it used too until I fixed it from not moving left or right) and will infinitely try and home and not move
Have you contacted their support?
I’m just not getting the same results. 😞 I auto level and my z-offset is NEVER CORRECT. It calibrates too low and then I have to tinker with it until I get a smooth layer. I’m very frustrated.
Hmm. I know this sounds like a load of you know what, but have you tried updating the firmware? If that doesn't work, I would contact tech support at Creality. It sounds like the firmware is not laoding the z offset correctly after adjustment.
Would one be able purchase a PEI sheet from amazon and swap it out, or will those screws in the back prevent that? I notice the build plate it comes with has notches for those screws. I am wondering if your stuck to only using that build plate it comes with. Thank you for the video.
God I hope so
Yes, there should be one for it on Amazon. It uses the same build plate as a lot of the Creality printers.
Simple Amazon search answers that question
what if on the auto leveling monitor is not all green, how to adjust it
If you need to get that granular with the bed level, you can always change the screws out on the bed with some lock nuts underneath the same way it's done on the Prusa. However it is really not necessary as the bed shouldn't move that much from it's intial auto level, and it will compensate from that operation. Thanks for watching!
I just got one of these to replace an ender3 pro. It is soooo much easier to setup and get going than that one was. Literally 20min to a perfect print. The main issue I have now is work flow. I had Octoprint on the old one, with good Cura profiles for slicing. The V3 is too new to support either yet. Moving files back and forth on an SD card seems a big step backwards to me.
I had Octoprint woring on this machine..... Have you tried to connect Octoprint?
I just plugged mine in and it worked- I had the neo
@@markmack4996 definitly plug and play....
Have you made a video of tweaks or modifications to acceleration and speed? Do you know of anyone has added a led light bar? Cheers
Did you print at 180 mm/s on the Deadpool bust?
Absolutely!
im thinking of getting this for my first printer would you say it is the bets beginner one?
Absolutely! Easy to use, prints well, and the cost is very low.
@@GuysShop ok thanks. By the way the review was very helpful
i have a problem with mine. the auto leveling is showing green apart from the 3 in the top left corner and 1 in the bottle right corner showing blue. and the nozel when printing is way too high. the filament is not sticking as its touching the bed too late??
If the auto level isn't woring correctly, I may consider adjusting the screws on the bed to maybe get it more in line. If not, Cre4ality support would be the next course of action.
what would be considered one step up from this??
According to their pricing anyway, maybe the Ender 3 s1? Not quite sure at this point because this printer offers so much value.
I got this machine. First 10 prints amazing perfect. Both pla and petg. Bed all green on level, the z probe offset is slightly to much on my machine.
Now i have 3 failed prints in petg. The bed is no longer all green it has 1 blue and you cannot print multiple prints on the entire bed because they dont stick in certain places.
With no wheels im confused as what to do because the gantry and frame are perfectly level.
Any ideas?
Re-run the auto z and bed level would be the first thing.
@@GuysShop yes thanks ive done that multiple times with no help, also the z offset is different everytime by 0.01/3
Im gonna run and print a bed level test and upload it on my channel
@@peaceorpieces8343did you figure out your issue ? I'm having similar issues
@@TurnTheRage i updated the software, tightened the 4 screws holding the bed to the carriage and the problem went away, i just get 1 reading high but thats fine
Would this be accurate enough to set in bearings to a printed part and make hollow tubes to insert into the bearing
what slicer is 100% compatible
I have not tried it for that purpose, however I would feel pretty confident that it would. I am using Creality Print for slicing that cam with the printer and it works great.
hola, no pñude imprimir PETG, aparte se salta laimresionene el eje y no se por que y no se adhiere el PEtg ni a 30ss/seg
I used the profile for the ender 3 and iwhile its a bit slower, it does work.
Hi man.... is there a way to monitor the height as it print
I think the main display status shows that. I gave the primnter away a while ago to a freind that wanted one, so I can't check.
@GuysShop no it does not... 100% sure. It only display the z offset
After i print something, can i just turn the printer off without waiting for it to cool down?
PLS respond
Hi, has anybody installed a filament run out sensor to this printer?
Im sure someone has. I have not.
I just got mine but when I install the slicer it came with its all in Chinese, I've tried downloading it from their website buts in Chinese too.
I'm pretty sure there is an option to select a language.
What is this stepper next to the motherboard?
Are you asking about the Y motor?
What filament did you use please?
I used creality pla that they sent with the printer. I have also used overture pla and petg with great results
Do you not have to calibrate e steps on this?
I did not. The extruder was working fine, so no need.
anyone set up SuperSlicer or Cura with the SE. There are no profiles setup for the printer in either and I don't want to config all this
I have not seen any yet for SS or Orca
Did you have to calculate the e-steps?
Nope. It just worked.
Hi I am new to 3d printing. And now I am having a difficult decision between Ender 3 v3 se and Ender 3 v2 neo ,can anyone give me some advice?
Definitly the Ender 3 V3 SE. So much easier to use.....
Thanks for replying me
Worked great for 2 weeks... Now every time i attempt a print unless its very small, it wont stick. Ots definitely not level no matter how many times ive tried to auto level... No knobs is sweet until the auto level feature doesnt work at all which is the reason i bought it ..... Now im screwed
Clean the bed with soap and water, and try setting the z offset again.
@@GuysShop I have tried that a few times... Tried glue... I feel like I've tried everything... I even tried buying a spring kit and converting it but ofc the se has a piece on the front that blocks the knobs on the springs
can it print flexible filamentor abs?
It will. I have not tried either however, and ABS would require an enclosure to print properly.
enclosure has to do with fumes? or affects the prints as well?
@@GuysShop
How to rebalance the printing table when it has been tilted?
No need to as the ABL will take care of it.
@@GuysShopno it won't al doesn't work on this
It's not 100 percent compatible with Octoprint? What's not compatible?
Try loading MriscoC firmware on it and let me know how well it does.
I might buy this one.
It is giving an error saying that it is not 1200% compatible. Haven't really gone through everything. Mainly just use it to transfer files and start prints.
@@GuysShop any more info this error? I have setup OctoPrint and so far its seems to be working without issue. Only "error" I get is about the host action commands being disabled in the firmware. Got a 9 hour print going and its cooking with gas. Only my 3rd day with it and Im a beginner. This printer is very very good for the price.
@@andresquintero9855 It is a great printer for the price! The only thing I have noticed is the error messege and also the display doesn't show printing info.
@GuysShop ah yes i did notice the printer doesnt show the progress. I wasnt sure it was supposed to but OctoPrint did do a good job of showing the entire progress. Cant wait for more support for the printer. Its great forst piece for anyone! I successfully printed a 13 hour print on my 3rd of owning it, was supposed to be 9 but the supports added more time
Link to o to print?
I see you have a k1 as well.. Imo this is better than k1
Two completely different printers. Can’t even compare the two
How long does shipping take? I ordered mines 5 days ago and it still says awaiting shipment, I feel like I should’ve ordered off Amazon instead.
Ya. Amazon got mine to me in 2 days. I felt that was worth paying a little bit more some any later and it would just sit until the weekend.
Not sure how long it will take. Definitly worth the wait though!
Or giving them a call to find out why there's the delay!???
I've had issues with Amazon, sometimes, where products are "in stock" and the estimated date of delivery is reasonable, to find that a week goes by and not even shipped.
I have found that if I actually call in and ask for a supervisor, the items magically get shipped that same day.
Perhaps they just need a nudge. ??
@@BlondieSL I didn’t order off Amazon. I ordered off Creality’s official website and their customer services is horrible.
Bought mine august 21st and it should be arriving this Saturday Sept 2.
Does anyone know where to get one?? Can’t find any on Amazon rn and not sure which creality website is real.. lol
creality.com
@@GuysShop Are we positive this is the actual site?
@@thomasanderson5145 Absolutely
I have a question about the printed object not being 100% accurate in measurements.
For those of us who need EXACT numbers, how easy is this print to tweak to adjust X, Y, Z printing "sizes" so that say, a 20x20x20 cube comes out 20x20x20 and not slightly more or less?
I currently have a @#$#@% Wanhau D9 MK2 400 and it's a real P.I.T.A. (not bread) to tweak. But it's doable.
This thing is huge, NOISY and can be "glitchy". I mostly get great prints out of it... NOWWW... but I had to do a lot of mods to it in order to achieve that.
This Ender 3 V3 SE is looking good.
HOWEVER, I've read that there's one important feature that it does not have and perhaps you can confirm this? That is, no filament run out sensor to stop the print. Is that true?
If so, with all the extra connections on the main board, is there a spot to add a filament run out sensor AND would the current firmware detect and use that?
*UPDATE Ok, I see what they've done here. On their website, it appears that the filament runout sensor is an option that can be "added" to the order.*
Sadly, on that site (I assume it's their legit site) they have this listed under "accessories". However, you can't click on any of the "accessories". I don't trust sites like that.
You'll never make a 20x20x20 cube consistently with any machine. Maybe if you specifically fine tune a very good quality machine (that is also properly assembled) to just do those cubes using the same filament and fine tuned g code you could get, I guess, some 20x20x20 cubes more often. About filament sensor, that thing is overhyped af, I don't have one and never needed one. Can be useful for a print farm I guess.
While the printer is not tuned, I am still happy with the performance for the price. I'm sure that if I spent hours dialing it in for a specific roll of filament, I could get it near perfect. Unfortunately thats not my thing :)
@@Drumaier if your tolerance requirements are tighter than tenths of a millimeter, 3D printing is not for you. I can print 20mm calibration cubes all day that might vary between 19.94 and 20.06 on any particular axis. It's good enough for my needs, and I imagine is fine for most applications, but FDM just doesn't lend itself to strict tolerances.
Just got mine. It is not so silent as author saying. Y axe terrible, cooling fan is also very loud.
My friend got the same experience.
I don’t recall calling it silent. It makes noise, however just not as much as some other printers. Either way, it’s a great printer for the price!
@@GuysShopagree- this is excellent printer for beginners for it's current price. There is literally nothing better on the market
Insane it's very quiet. Just like video says
Why does everyone reviewing this machine show how to start the "Extrude" feature and have everyone watch the printer homing, heating and then extruding... but not point out that there is no other way of stopping the printer from doing that like forever besider turning it off?!
Same Problem, everyone skips over the extruding then printer sits there , only turning off and manual moving has worked for me, zero instructions
@@brannonmeek9233 in the meantime, I found out that the printer indeed stops extruding... after a while. When doing manually so, I'd never extrude that much filament just to make sure the nozzle is primed (enough), so I _thought_ the printer would never stop on its one. But it does. Also, the nozzle is like 10mm above the bed while using the extrusion feature. With that much filament coming out of the nozzle and that low distance to the bed, the stuff sometimes even messes up the nozzle... I believe this feature should receive some update. ;-)
First! not really, more like 72nd. When are you going to get a Delta, Guy? I bet Nathan, er, I mean JJ has one he'd let you borrow.
Don’t know why I would need one. They are so darn big and I would rather have like the K1 max instead for the larger build volume
@@GuysShop because they are fun to watch. And that's basically what we do with 3D printers, is watch. :-)
They just don't have replacement parts, I've been trying to get an replacement extruder cable since the day I [finally] got it back in october. [it was built busted, and shipped that way] and all I have gotten is the creality royal run around, without even a reach around, they porked me but good. DON'T EVER DO BUSINESS WITH CREALITY, YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.
Dual Independent Z axis would be the best upgrade IMO, the gantry could then be auto levelled before a bed probe and print by using G34 in the start code, I upgraded one of my Ender 3 printers to this configuration as it was proving impossible to keep the gantry level without overtightening the excentric nut on the right hand side to stop it dropping.
The belted z solution looks good on paper but in practice it's another story, I have seen plenty of examples of people upgrading to the dual independent Z axis who previously had the belted Z solution, in many cases the belt either streched or expanded over time and lost grip on the undriven Z leadscrew which threw them out of sync.converting this printer though is going to be difficult as the power supply would have to be moved to allow the mounting of a second Z motor if it is even possible!
Looking at that CR Touch it seems to not be square 2:18
This will probably be the Ender 3 S2
If you mean both Z screws have their own motor, I do wonder how good that really is as compare to a belt. Unless it's because a belt can stretch and cause a shift???
I have a Wanhao D9 MK2 400 and it has dual motors for Z. It works well,
BUT sometimes, for some reason, perhaps one motor skips a notch or two, it shifts one side up a tiny bit.
Therefore, before printing for the day, I move the gantry up to the alignment marks to make sure both sides are equal. Each side has its own adjusting knob.
But I often thought if going belt would be better. I don't know for sure.
@@BlondieSLTheir own motor and driver, this gived the ability for the gantry to be levvelled by using the ABL probe via G34, this is much better than using a belt
@@AndrewAHayesAh.... perhaps that's why I wasn't sold on this.
With this Wanhao (NEVER BUY ONE) it doesn't level the gantry itself.
The user (me) has to manually adjust it.
It's too bad that an probes weren't added to auto level the gantry as well.
This D9 MK2 400 does have auto bed leveling, which is good. The bed can be manually adjusted to, if necessary.
I'm now considering buying an Ender 3 V3 SE. The prints do look good. Better than this Wanhao, that's for sure.
Blah blah blah. Its a $200 printer. Get over it.
Enders are the best for learning prints. Then when youre serious you get the K1 series.
This printer for the price, features and ease of use is a great beginners printer.
They work great……for a little while then they lose the ability to auto calculate the Z offset. I have had 5 of them that do the exact same thing, unluckily the last one lasted more than a month so I could not send it back my v3 is now a useless paperweight. I could manually set the offset….but why should I they advertise it as automatic. This is a very common fault. Avoid and don’t buy one.
Had the Same Problem once in day 2 of using it but I got it ready to Print again pretty fast.
They maybe should of made this at the start
I said the exact same thing. All the rubbish they made earlier cost us a lot of wasted money.
Yeah, the technology has come a long way since the first Ender 3 hit the market.
Ahh, yay, yet another tinker toy from Creality…