Rolex - Vintage vs Modern. Have they really improved that much over the years?
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- Rolex Datejust vintage Ref 16000 Cal 3035
Rolex Datejust Modern Ref 126334 Cal 3235
Rolex Milgauss Ref 116400 Cal 3131
Rolex Sky-dweller Ref 326135 Cal 9001
Rolex Airking Ref 114200 Cal 3130
Rolex Submariner Ref 1680 Cal 1570
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Live Watchmaking. Look through the eyes of a watchmaker and share the passion of Kalle Slaap from team Chronoglide, Vintage Watch repair specialists near Amsterdam.
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Strange thing is, with the thousands of rolex videos, that there are zero videos about the skydweller and yachtmaster movements
You know what…wow yeah that’s right
Because those aren’t the hype models
Doesn't the Yachtmaster have a fairly common movement.
@@Bob.martens yachtmaster i does, ghe yachtmaster II has a variable countdown. Pretty much useless for most of us but technically a nifty feat
I cannot figure out why Rolex no longer offer OP with 3,6,9 dials.
Anyone remember the days when they allowed you to change the dial on new watches if you decided you no longer liked it after a few months ? Yes Rolex actually used to believe in customer service back in the day...
That is because such OP is the explorer
@@OscarOSullivan Not necessarily: there were regular Oyster Perpetuals with numerals at 3,6,9 just like the Explorer, however with a crown at 12
The inside of the sky dweller is more interesting and better looking than the outside.
I would love to hear your thoughts on modern Tudor movements
Wow. The 3235. Not just that amazing escape wheel, but that's the most elegantly proportioned pallet fork I've ever seen.
Your insight into the mind of the customer/client is absolutely priceless to those who aspire to get into this impossible proffession!
There have been some talks about reliability issues with Rolex 32XX series movements. Some claim it’s because of the extended power reserve (70hrs).
On the other the 31XX series are perceived as rock solid and easy to work on. Proven over decades.
If I’d get a Rolex it had to be an Explorer II Polar dial, reference 16570.
"Care about movement - as a technical puzzle, care about good craftsmanship and good polishing skills - dial and color are not important!" - Kalle, The Watchmaker, 2024.
I will put this on wall of my work area! Thnx Kalle!
Maybe even a tattoo ??
That’s why I think the cal 1570 is a lifetime calibre. Simple, robust, service is easy to find - truly good service is may be challenging. And the 1570 was used in nearly the whole line up in the 70s. There’s a reason for that.
Mine is 60 yrs old and at 1” per day, and never wind it, it’s barely mid life.
Love a free sprung balance. In comparison regulator pins are a horrible bodge adding positional variance, beat error and a failure point. The physics of it make sense.
Excellent discussion. Thank you.
I’ve learned so much from this channel. Thanks!
20:11 that Rolex Sky Dweller it’s my favourite watch! Amazing the bezel function etc amazing watch!
Most of the watch wearers I've talked to about their watch is about the case they don't know much or anything about the movement other than how many jewels. Perhaps they know the difference between whether or not it's self-winding or battery powered. For most people I think it's more jewelry than a tool.
In my opinion that's a shame! It's like a motorcyclist that has no idea how his bike works!
Love how directly and lovely you point out: The movement, not the cosmetic :)
The true fact: 90% of the Rolex Owners are not interested in watch, or in the movement. They simply buy it for the social status only. I have 3 friends wearing Rolexes and they absolutely know nothing. One even asked me when he has to have his Rolex battery changed. :)
Perhaps he has an Oysterquartz?
@@mr.t8369 The chances are so slim :))
Imagine having an incredibly rare Rolex like the Oysterquartz and not knowing about it (and not telling the watchmaker specifically)
Thanks for a great vid Kalle 😁👍 interesting, informative and entertaining.
Thank you for another great video mate. I enjoyed every second. Please keep it coming.
23:36 awesome Sky Dweller agree with those who say it’s mostly complicated movement @Kalle
The last watch that surprised me was Rado Golden Horse ~1970. Wonderful inside.
What movements did you most admire when working on them? Which manufacturer have you seen make the most elegant and sophisticated solutions engineered into the movements? And which ones have the best finish and precision?
All that Rolex achieves with it holding back supply to keep demand high is that it sells less watches than it could. Utter genius right there. Cracks me up. 😂 My one and only favourite is the Explorer 214270 MkII. 😊
I have a1940's bubble back and the automatic mechanism is quite unique. Also have a cal. 1555 day, date that is lovely 18 k case. Both perform fantastic. Great comparison, all of them opened with a run down the line of them would really be great....
Love this topic Kalle. Another topic that interests me is what is involved in changing a movement's beat rate. I have read that modifying the mainspring and perhaps the winding system is involved, but I am sure there is a bit more to it than.that. Perhaps you could explore this topic one day? Thank you for your excellent and informative videos. John Allen, Ottawa 😊
The Explorer 2 is regarded as being a very tough and robust tool watch. It would be really cool if you made a video about that movement and talk about the technical aspects you think make it so durable.
he already did.. Simplest construction possible.. If you want to call it a tool watch be my guest.. A diver is called a tool watch these days as well.. You can dive with it is the tool part covered.. Back to the explorer. It has a fixed bezel (Non-rotating) Instead it has a visible lumenius 24 hour hand that you can set in a cave somewhere where it is dark, and thus calculate passed time in conjunction with the watch main feature telling time.. Any practival usage? You be the judge, to me a simple non complication to add a freesprung hand that has the reversed function of a dive watch and thus in need of an extra hand to basically do the same thing.. You rotate a hand aligned wird a fixed bezel in Explorer, and you rotate a click bezel and compare to the time telling hands in a dive watch..
Same movement, exact same movement with no alteration at all can be installed in an explorer and a submariner..
I have seen complaints about the newest Rolex movement on Rolex forums . Some owners have said that after a year or so the movement starts to run slow and has to be serviced under warranty . Have you heard about this issue ??
My 1984 Rolex Datejust purchased new looks and runs flawlessly . I was going to buy a new Sub for my 70th birthday but after reading about the movement issue on various forms, I bought a Tudor Pelagos instead with Tudors in house movement a terrific watch ! My wife and I both enjoy your channel very informative and interesting! Thank you & Best ! Russ
Hi Russell!
I've heard about the same issues, and this exact thing is holding me back from buying the newest Explorer I for my 30th birthday (my profile pic and name is a prank, so ignore them hahah)
I got the advice from local watchmakers (specifically from a former Rolex affiliated watchmaker) to avoid the newest generation, and if I want a bulletproof movement, then to "go back" to a pristine example of an Explorer with the 3130 movement, or the 31xx series in general for other models
Cheers!
when the knowledge meets the audiency :)
As a collector, I am most interested in the movement and the design. My 40th is fast approaching, which means that I have had my eye on either a 1225, 3035, 5035, or even a 5055. The most recent addition to my collection is an ultra thin Omega quartz calibre 1422.
My next birthday is my 70th! I've got to start planning now! Any Ideas about a Meaningfull watch on a fixed income( movement most important of course)!
Great video insight, in regards to innovation I would love Kalle to do a video on the GS 9SA5 movement. 🙏
Weird to see such beautifully embellishments of the movements yet no exhibition backs of these watches, gladly nowadays most watches have them but not Rolex???
Excellent Kalle! I’m not a Rolex fan but got to know these things. As I heard on CZcams elsewhere, Rolex kept movements the same for about 10 years using the movement in most of their watches, then they make a small change/improvement and keep that going for about 10 years, don’t know how true this is? I’m also a movement guy and polishing generally only for extream cases of scratches. Since Tudor are getting more press/visibility a video like this for Tudor? Also, not that I’m a big Tudor fan either. P.S. I thought you are always drunk sinse you are laughing, truthful and drinking coffee to sober up😅
Great video, and thank you for making it. Did Rolex only being using ball bearings for the rotor in the 32XX series of movements? Would this be why there are sometimes problems with wear on the 31XX and older movements?
*Een uitstekende uitleg van een duidelijk deskundige klokkentechnicus, heel erg bedankt, ik heb ervan genoten. Groeten uit de VS van de zoon van een in Rotterdam geboren Nederlander.* ⏰
Yes one can win a discussion. One cannot win but only have a debate.
Interesting that you said Rolex became more innovative about 20 years ago,because this was around the time Rolex bought out the movement side of the business from the Aegler family,who owned it,because Jean Aegler,their relative, was supplying rolex movements back when rolex was just getting started.
Maybe the Aegler family held back innovation for some reason,but who knows?
Fabulous channel by the way!
There is one thing that strikes me about Rolex, whenever I see one under a microscope, whether on Kalle's channel or one of the other CZcams watchmakers. The internal finishes are not especially ornate. There is no engine turning, and what little engraving there is is strictly utilitarian. BUT, as simple as the finishes are, there is a level of consistency and precision about them, that you can easily mistake them for computer renderings. With other brands, when I see them under a microscope, I can see little burrs here and there, little inconsistencies in the anglage, a few rounded corners, maybe a few parts that simply have a stamped finish, maybe some inconsistency in the graining. With Rolex, every finish appears absolutely perfect and consistent, even under high magnification.
Apart from the watch hands- the hands are finished poorly
8:01 have question about keeping a good movement running spot on , just bought Tudor GMT brand new and I’ve noticed it’s running around 10 seconds per day faster 😳 have some Sellita movements that keep better time than a COSC certified brand new watch bought in las December ! Is this normal ? Should I complain about it to the AD ?
18:32 @Kalle what do you think about the Tudor calibre made by Kenisis free sprung as you watchmakers call is it a good movement or nothing special?
The SD movement looks fantastic. Can you do the same comparison with Omega or Zenith please?Chris
Regards,
A simple watch you say. I agree
All are nice, but different. As long as they all keep good time....their function is the same +- complications. It's just like cars.....some are bigger some smaller and if they are serviced they will take you from A to B.... . Simply put: have an old one (better if inherited) and get a new one.......and enjoy both
I like the more "tool watch" type of Rolex, explorer, Air King etc, but any big shiny blingy is not my thing at all. Especially no diamonds!
11:20 the Rolex Prince almost looks like a regular Seiko 🤣 going to be slammed in my face 🤓
I have recently discovered your channel. It’s great to have watchmaker’s perspective on movements.
I know there are over 500 videos on the channel.
So maybe it’s been covered already.
But I’d love to see a video on shock protection.
Another idea would be to compare a common ebauche like ETA 2824/2892 or its Sellita version with comparable in-house calibers. In terms of performance, but also reliability and serviceability.
In terms of ETA and Sellita it’s interesting to look at different grades from the above perspective.
Cheers!
I would definitely watch you servicing a rolex while drunk. See you at the British Watchmaking thing?
How do you feel about modern Patek movements vs vintage?
I look at it the same way - I love the technicality of the movement and seeing a finished watch is great, but I wouldn't call myself a 'watch guy'. Totally not a collector of much of anything. Also, I'm showing my ignorance here but, you mention often that Rolex is kind of middle of the pack. What watches or brands would you put above Rolex (marketing) and nearer the top of the industry?
Great Videos can you service a powermatic 80 or is it so cheap that you have to swap it. I heard that yoz need special tools to adjust and balance the wheel?
What do you think of Rolex current movements compared to Omega?
Sir, do you service Jaeger-LeCoultre vintage 481 calibre, top grade, cheers.
What are your top five calibers?
The watch I want most is about 38-40mm, easily readable, a countdown bezel (failing that standard count up), at least 100m wr, chronograph, chronometer accurate to +/-1sec a day, day + date but NO cyclops, fully lumed or gas tubes and of course less than 250€.
Not asking much...
Anyway, I agree I am more interested on keeping the inside of the watch in good condition and don't care so much about the outside.
That's almost a Citizen promaster dive.
Learning watch repair got me interested because I get a kick out of fixing something myself that was otherwise destined to the trash heap or a junk drawer.
Carl love your show bro, but the Skydweller is the only Rolex that isn't like any other watch, for that reason i do love it, lets have it rite a seamaster is better than a sub and half the price, Rolex is high quality but you can get a high quality watch for less money and don't have to worry about getting mugged for it when you go out the house. well that's my rant for the day but I do love the skydweller sir.Andy.
Low rex ?
Would you accept watches to be sent to you from England for various repair jobs? x M
Excellent good Sir, thank you. Could you do a stream when you’re drunk??😂😂
Don’t fall in a canal with that on your wrist you will be straight to the bottom!!
I can confirm we are particular.
Hello Kalle
Thanks
WHERE ARE THE DESIGHNERS
mechanics are hard to find.
Kale nice to see nine thousand calibre I’ve got old and new models 630 1946 year and gmt 3186 2013 both have their own characteristics. In the eighties owned a 5513 sold it on in the nineties big mistake they now make big money but I see not the stupidity of the mad pricing it cost one hundred and sixty nine pounds. I converted it from the 1530 calbre to the 1535 chronometer free sprung balance it worked and timekeeping was marginal better have a good year. This was the best working profession I had in my lifetime now retired three years
Hi 👋 Kalle , greetings from Portugal-Algarve like see you’re honest opinion about watch makers me as a watch collector ( not billionaire) but like watch your videos unfortunately can’t get you on Tuesdays live streams
This one most be awesome for watch snobes 😎
Some Rolex’s are very easy to work look almost like ETA 2824-2 🤓 i look to my Tudor’s and love them almost same for half price
What’s your opinion @Kalle ?
So many parallels to Harley Davidson but sadly don’t know if Harley can sustain
Lange & Sõhne my opinion are best ever hand made and not huge price as an AP !
What do you think about the tudur movements?
Isn’t it a nice ETA?
@@coopoylozenge5964 in my New pelagos is a New "inhouse" caliber. It Was eta tudor owns a caliber Company, which made calibers for Tag heuer and Breitling too
MIDDLE ME WE TALK TO. NEVER THE INVENTERS...
Ah I missed it...
Rolex has become a ticking joke. “Keep the supply low” tactics will bite them in the ar*e big time when modern, demanding society will get tired of it and will understand it’s simply not worth the asking price. In case you wondered why rolex doesn’t make transparent case backs then look at this cheap finishing. It’s like selling cars with RR price tag, Kia engines and Fiat suspension 🙃
YES (uneducated guess)
Rolex is the Harley Davidson of the watch world
Omega is the Triumph of the watch world...
I don't like rolex... If i were allowed to have one watch, that would be JLC, absolutely... And even if there is a very generous person gives me rolex, i will exchange it with JLC(s)…
Rolex snobs are the same snobs Worldwide
I think Rolex is a big con, they are a charity. How can that be, no tax to pay? Where does all the money go? I prefer Jaeger-LeCoultre and Stowa. I love the movement's not the outside, I love the engines, my wife doesn't understand as she likes what it looks like and doesn't care what's inside.😢
Thumbs uP
GET A SEIKO
ja het gaat mij om het repareren het gereedschap de geschiedenis en niet zo zeer om serienummers of modellen of dat geneuzel. Ach daar hebben we het ook wel over gehad ik ben geen verzamelaar.. ach een horloge zonder dail en hands dat je alleen het uurwerk ziet tikken is mij ook goed ik weet toch wel dat tijd vliegt ...
I’m on the same page as you dude not to fussed about the brand more interested in the movement. 👍 hope your well my friend 😁
@@adfpv1153 everthing well here, good to hear my friend, i hope you are doing well to !!!
rolex = swiss seiko ,nothing special
rolex are for fools to showof. i have Seiko;s.
So technically they are the same while finishing is different…
2:07 hi @Kalle wish you or me were near 😊! Has I’ve few pieces nothing very expensive but all were gifts from my parents and need few fine polish and some service anyway… Maybe it’s possible me to send you at least 2 of my favourite ones has my first where robbed 🥲 anyway… or maybe I’ll went to Amsterdam and try to meet you 😊! Dank Weil