Aaron, seriously thank you for posting these Titan videos. So far I’ve had to do three of the jobs you’ve made videos for. You have saved me a bunch of time and frustration figuring out exactly how to do do them.
Dude, this totally fixed my low (rough) idle problem! I was around 550 rpm while stopped in drive, now am at 750 rpm while stopped in drive. Been fixing everything left and right to fix this problem. And what do you know, a leak in my PS hose was the cause! Amazing. By the way, this took me 5 hours. NOT an easy job taking the clamp off and on, not being able to see on top. Also had to replace the metal portion because it was seized I couldn't get it loose from just the hose portion, so I had to saw off the end where it goes into the rack and pinion and put a ratchet on it to get it off. ROYAL PAIN IN THE ASS.... BUT SOOOOO WORTH IT. Fix my leak AND my low idle!!!! by the way, I have a 2004 Infiniti QX56. Oh yeah and be prepared to GET MESSY. I've done a ton of work on my car, and this was probably the messiest job I've done! What makes this job so hard is that you are working in the tightest spaces and have to use standard wrenches. Also, I had to use my impact wrench to get that big 24mm bolt up top off. It was on SUPER TIGHT. Also make sure you have a 14mm wrench!
Hey Aaron - thanks so much for putting these vids together. I successfully replaced the high pressure hose (seeping) yesterday and flushed the fluid. A few comments for those looking to do this: - I could not even see the lower connection/bracket; had to do it by feel. - The bolts are very small 10mm; be careful and thread by hand first to make sure you do not cross thread them. This will take some time as there is little room to work and no visibility. - The lower part of the line was on TIGHT! It took a lot of force to remove it and the space is super limited. - I got the OEM line which came with the entire rubber/metal hose assembly (except the copper washers) including the pressure sensor (only ~$95 on sale). But, I only replaced the high pressure line as the others seemed fine and didn't want to mess things up. - I filled the reservoir and did the turning the wheel back and forth 10 times and it was still pretty full. Once I started the vehicle it sucked down nearly empty so watch out for that. - I agree removing the wheel well liner is a must. Not only for taking off but to thread the new banjo bolt on - the weight of the hose wants to fight you from getting it threaded strait. Good luck!
Great video !!! I ordered the part, nice that you name the tools needed, always the one tool that you don't have or missing.. its a good idea to inventory your tools before you start the job. some auto part stores will loan you the tools no charge.
Hey Aaron thanks for the video the dealer they want $870 dollars now with you help and good explanation they got o dollars appreciate you god bless you!!!
I really had no idea how to replace this seeping line. The word High Pressure scared me so I’ve just been dealing with the old hose. Thx again you’ve given me another job to do. Thx for saving me thousands of dollars because I can get the hose pretty cheap. I’ve never seen that banjo bolt. So I believe I can handle this too. Great job!
Great video, my 04 leaked for years. Repair shop quoted me 675 to fix it. I took off those spring clamps and put SS hose clamps on both the HP and LP side. I haven't had a problem since. Good to know where else to start looking, I didn't think of the pressure fitting. Cheers
Hey Aaron, I’ve watched a couple of your videos and they have helped me out a lot! Also my front drive shaft has some play in it, I thought it was the U joint but the play is closer the differential. I have a video I could send you or post to my account if you didn’t mind giving me a recommendation. Thank you for your time!
Just did this today. It was not fun. They really don’t give you much room to work with. And why not put the line with the connection in back!!? 😂. Definitely pull the inner fender liner to get to that banjo bolt. As usual for me it was a job that should take an hour but took four. 😫
I just did it today, that bitch was stuck so i had to replace the steel line also. Im pretty sure i stripped the inside of my rack 😢 Definitely not a fun nor easy job.
Thanks alot for this video. I went to midas and told them that I been hearing a nice every time I turn they told me that my power steering was leaking and that they would charge me 1500$ to fix it obviously I said no I thought that was way to much. My question is for a job like this what's a fair price to pay somebody? I'm still driving my truck should I keep putting more fluid in my pump thanks in advance
Aaron Hines, thanks for the vids! They are very helpful. I’m going to be replacing my power steering line and the new one came with the additional hard line piece. Is it necessary to replace the whole thing? Just replacing the rubber hose like you did seems much quicker....
I have a 2008 armada with about 165000 miles on it and I’m experiencing the same problem just wanted to know is the titan and armada the same exact engine ?
Ok I just fixed the bottom hose that’s under the reservoir I didn’t think to look this up before I did it but I didn’t disconnect the sensor do you think that I ruined that sensor? and how do I know if it’s not leaking anymore ? Thank you!
So what do you do if the 14mm doesn’t spin? To remove the like what do you do then? Because I’ve tried to turn it with the 21mm and nothing. And made sure I’m loosing it and not tightening it.
@@joshuaperry7529 what I did was I returned the hose and bought the full assembly, that one was easier to remove with a line wrench. Can also get it at Harbor freight for 7$ I think. There is another video that goes step by step in replacing the whole assembly. I rounded mine so I had to and was much easier like I said.
I'm doing a 94 nissan pathfinder and the one part I'm having trouble with is putting both banjo bolts on with the copper rings and no videos are of the vehicle I need and everyone wants to skip showing putting on the bolts
Is there a reason Nissan recommends their power steering fluid vs just Automatic transmission fluid? Just curious about that. I noticed you just put in what look like automatic transmission fluid in my wife's truck it has a sticker on the core support that says to use Nissan power steering fluid only right next to that sticker is another one that says used Nissan matic s only in the transmission it doesn't say Nissan or equivalent they are specific to the jester fluids how is that just like a scam for money or is there a reason behind it?
Hey Aaron! First off thanks for the vid! Gave me the confidence to do this job myself....but that's where the fun ended tho LOL. This is day 2 under the truck....the pressure fitting at the frame that leads to the steering gear is seized. I'm holding the stationary hex nut on the pressure hose and have a 14 mm line wrench on the threaded fitting and can't turn the SOB! I'm a fairly strong guy so effort is not the issue. To make matters worse I can't get my 14mm line wrench in a position on the steering gear fitting to get any leverage. The CV Axle is blocking access to the backside. I saw a guy put a line wrench on it and use a breaker of some sort (out of camera view) to bust it loose. Any suggestions? MAP gas on the fitting? Dunno if the heat transfer into the steering gear would harm it. Any help is appreciated. Thx
I would put some heat on it like you said. It shouldn’t harm the rack and pinion as long as your quick with it. An acetylene torch would be ideal but a map could work. Good luck!
@@AaronHinesAuto Thanks for the feedback. I was reluctant to try heat. Main issue was no leverage on 14 mm line wrench. Accessing from the front, I solved this by laying a crowbar on the curved part of the frame and under the line wrench and lifted up. It broke it free and i was able to turn the fitting the rest of the way with an open ended 14mm. Whew! Did you replace your pressure sensor when you had it off, or just swap it over to the new one? I have an O-ring for the end of the fitting but not another for the sensor, and ya know they say to never re-use them. I've seen some ridiculous prices for a new sensor. AutoZone wants $121!!
Wow. I have never seen those sensors fail before. Doesn’t mean they can’t though. I would just reuse it and the print for it. Maybe put some fresh oil on the ring before install. I bet that was a great feeling when the line busted loose!
@@AaronHinesAuto Nearly busted my head on the fan in exuberance!! Lol. I'm changing out the sway bar bushings, links, ball joints and bushings in UCAs and LCAs, calipers, rotors and hub assemblies too. My splash shields are nearly rusted through. And I damaged them more using the 8" 1/2" bolt trick to extract the hubs. So I had to place an order for the splash shields bc no one makes aftermarkets that I can find. And while i was already paying the S&H I ordered a new O-ring for the sensor. It was a ridiculous $7 but I'll sleep better with it under the old and still kicking pressure sensor. Keep making the vids. I'll keep watching. And if you're taking suggestions lol...I'd really like to tackle the bearings on the diff half shafts but too much of the work is "off camera" from what I've seen. I wanna see someone hit the half shaft or pull it out w a slide. And I wanna see the oil seal ever so delicately removed. Not really wanting to install new races. Thanks again for showing us we can do some things, not all, but some things to take care of our trucks.
64.99 from oreilly auto parts. www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/import-direct-power-steering-5671/suspension---steering-16778/power-steering-16478/steering-hose-assembly-pressure-line-12559/8511739221af/import-direct-power-steering-hose/13401111/5697636
I have a cousin who works at that auto parts company and he helps me buy the parts, because he is an employee they give him a discount and that line came out for $19 dollars 👌👍😁😁😎😎😎
GOD BLESS YOU!!! I had no idea on where to even start doing this. Thank You!!!!!!
im glad this video helped you out! thank you!
Aaron, seriously thank you for posting these Titan videos. So far I’ve had to do three of the jobs you’ve made videos for. You have saved me a bunch of time and frustration figuring out exactly how to do do them.
I’m so glad to hear that! Nothing better then saving money and getting the job done right!!
Definitely going to give this a shot. Nissan just quoted me $860 to do this replacement.
Holy smokes! Good luck!
That Titan start up sounds so good.
Dude, this totally fixed my low (rough) idle problem! I was around 550 rpm while stopped in drive, now am at 750 rpm while stopped in drive. Been fixing everything left and right to fix this problem. And what do you know, a leak in my PS hose was the cause! Amazing. By the way, this took me 5 hours. NOT an easy job taking the clamp off and on, not being able to see on top. Also had to replace the metal portion because it was seized I couldn't get it loose from just the hose portion, so I had to saw off the end where it goes into the rack and pinion and put a ratchet on it to get it off. ROYAL PAIN IN THE ASS.... BUT SOOOOO WORTH IT. Fix my leak AND my low idle!!!! by the way, I have a 2004 Infiniti QX56. Oh yeah and be prepared to GET MESSY. I've done a ton of work on my car, and this was probably the messiest job I've done! What makes this job so hard is that you are working in the tightest spaces and have to use standard wrenches. Also, I had to use my impact wrench to get that big 24mm bolt up top off. It was on SUPER TIGHT. Also make sure you have a 14mm wrench!
Hey Aaron - thanks so much for putting these vids together. I successfully replaced the high pressure hose (seeping) yesterday and flushed the fluid.
A few comments for those looking to do this:
- I could not even see the lower connection/bracket; had to do it by feel.
- The bolts are very small 10mm; be careful and thread by hand first to make sure you do not cross thread them. This will take some time as there is little room to work and no visibility.
- The lower part of the line was on TIGHT! It took a lot of force to remove it and the space is super limited.
- I got the OEM line which came with the entire rubber/metal hose assembly (except the copper washers) including the pressure sensor (only ~$95 on sale). But, I only replaced the high pressure line as the others seemed fine and didn't want to mess things up.
- I filled the reservoir and did the turning the wheel back and forth 10 times and it was still pretty full. Once I started the vehicle it sucked down nearly empty so watch out for that.
- I agree removing the wheel well liner is a must. Not only for taking off but to thread the new banjo bolt on - the weight of the hose wants to fight you from getting it threaded strait.
Good luck!
9
Great video !!! I ordered the part, nice that you name the tools needed, always the one tool that you don't have or missing.. its a good idea to inventory your tools before you start the job. some auto part stores will loan you the tools no charge.
I love this channel, keep putting vids out Aaron and I’ll keep watching.
Hey Aaron thanks for the video the dealer they want $870 dollars now with you help and good explanation they got o dollars appreciate you god bless you!!!
I really had no idea how to replace this seeping line. The word High Pressure scared me so I’ve just been dealing with the old hose. Thx again you’ve given me another job to do. Thx for saving me thousands of dollars because I can get the hose pretty cheap. I’ve never seen that banjo bolt. So I believe I can handle this too. Great job!
this is happening to my son's truck. thank you for posting the video
Great video. Glad I watched, had a shop quote me $1,000 to change my line.
Thanks for taking the time to upload this video.
About to tackle this project , thanks for the video!
Great video, my 04 leaked for years. Repair shop quoted me 675 to fix it. I took off those spring clamps and put SS hose clamps on both the HP and LP side. I haven't had a problem since. Good to know where else to start looking, I didn't think of the pressure fitting. Cheers
Best instructional video on this removal of the line! Thanks for sharing this info and God Bless you! You Baddddd!
Man!!!!!that was quickly ,I know now how to do it
Hey Aaron, I’ve watched a couple of your videos and they have helped me out a lot! Also my front drive shaft has some play in it, I thought it was the U joint but the play is closer the differential. I have a video I could send you or post to my account if you didn’t mind giving me a recommendation. Thank you for your time!
You’re videos are awesome and very helpful. Thanks man!!
Just did this today. It was not fun. They really don’t give you much room to work with. And why not put the line with the connection in back!!? 😂. Definitely pull the inner fender liner to get to that banjo bolt. As usual for me it was a job that should take an hour but took four. 😫
Yes it’s definitely not a fun job to do. Always seems impossible to route the new line the same way the old one was
I just did it today, that bitch was stuck so i had to replace the steel line also.
Im pretty sure i stripped the inside of my rack 😢
Definitely not a fun nor easy job.
Thanks Doc...! Just what I needed..!
Thank you I'm about to do this I thought it was more complicated dealer wanted 700 for this
You da man. Thanks
Thank you Sir. Excellent video.
thank you! glad it could help
Why is the banjo bolt so hard to unscrew??
Thank you for saving me $400 Dollars!!!!! Do you have any videos on replacing the bank 1 and bank 2 blow by hoses?
You make great videos.😊
Great help. Thank you.
The labor book called for $150 ...somebody's going to be happy.... thanks
Great videos thank you. Very informative
Great video, thank you!
Any videos on low pressure power steering resovoir line
Hey nice job! I was told that the Titan house three hoses that need to be replaced ?
Excellent!
huge thanks for this one, every other video has you disconnecting the entire line. i did it your way in about 40 mins. 🫡
This thing is so common happened on my 04 armada
Thanks for posting. Where is your shop located? Need to drop my Titan off!
Thanks alot for this video. I went to midas and told them that I been hearing a nice every time I turn they told me that my power steering was leaking and that they would charge me 1500$ to fix it obviously I said no I thought that was way to much. My question is for a job like this what's a fair price to pay somebody? I'm still driving my truck should I keep putting more fluid in my pump thanks in advance
If the leak is at a crimp why does the sensor need to be replaced?
Great video!
Clean video and niche work
Is this what's causing the build up on the passenger side of the engine? I have so much buildup from something leaking but I have no drips.
Aaron Hines, thanks for the vids! They are very helpful. I’m going to be replacing my power steering line and the new one came with the additional hard line piece. Is it necessary to replace the whole thing? Just replacing the rubber hose like you did seems much quicker....
Thank you so much! No you don’t need to install the steel line. I normally don’t because they don’t leak
I have a 2008 armada with about 165000 miles on it and I’m experiencing the same problem just wanted to know is the titan and armada the same exact engine ?
Yes
Ok I just fixed the bottom hose that’s under the reservoir I didn’t think to look this up before I did it but I didn’t disconnect the sensor do you think that I ruined that sensor? and how do I know if it’s not leaking anymore ? Thank you!
So what do you do if the 14mm doesn’t spin? To remove the like what do you do then? Because I’ve tried to turn it with the 21mm and nothing. And made sure I’m loosing it and not tightening it.
Did you ever get yours off? I'm in the same situation, been trying to get it off for about 4 hours spaced over 2 days.
@@joshuaperry7529 what I did was I returned the hose and bought the full assembly, that one was easier to remove with a line wrench. Can also get it at Harbor freight for 7$ I think. There is another video that goes step by step in replacing the whole assembly. I rounded mine so I had to and was much easier like I said.
@@joshuaperry7529 got the fully assembly for 42$ comes with 2 crush washers and 2 O rings.
I recently changed the power steering\atf fluid and I still have air in the line. How long does it take to get the air out?
I'm doing a 94 nissan pathfinder and the one part I'm having trouble with is putting both banjo bolts on with the copper rings and no videos are of the vehicle I need and everyone wants to skip showing putting on the bolts
What kind of power steering did you add on there ? Was it dexron iii?
Is there a reason Nissan recommends their power steering fluid vs just Automatic transmission fluid? Just curious about that. I noticed you just put in what look like automatic transmission fluid in my wife's truck it has a sticker on the core support that says to use Nissan power steering fluid only right next to that sticker is another one that says used Nissan matic s only in the transmission it doesn't say Nissan or equivalent they are specific to the jester fluids how is that just like a scam for money or is there a reason behind it?
Jeff Eppenger because they want to charge you an arm and a leg for it.
Good Job!!!
Great job. I'm having a hard time finding the location of the camshaft sensor .if you can point me then the right direction that would be great
Hey Aaron! First off thanks for the vid! Gave me the confidence to do this job myself....but that's where the fun ended tho LOL. This is day 2 under the truck....the pressure fitting at the frame that leads to the steering gear is seized. I'm holding the stationary hex nut on the pressure hose and have a 14 mm line wrench on the threaded fitting and can't turn the SOB! I'm a fairly strong guy so effort is not the issue. To make matters worse I can't get my 14mm line wrench in a position on the steering gear fitting to get any leverage. The CV Axle is blocking access to the backside. I saw a guy put a line wrench on it and use a breaker of some sort (out of camera view) to bust it loose. Any suggestions? MAP gas on the fitting? Dunno if the heat transfer into the steering gear would harm it. Any help is appreciated. Thx
I would put some heat on it like you said. It shouldn’t harm the rack and pinion as long as your quick with it. An acetylene torch would be ideal but a map could work. Good luck!
@@AaronHinesAuto Thanks for the feedback. I was reluctant to try heat. Main issue was no leverage on 14 mm line wrench. Accessing from the front, I solved this by laying a crowbar on the curved part of the frame and under the line wrench and lifted up. It broke it free and i was able to turn the fitting the rest of the way with an open ended 14mm. Whew! Did you replace your pressure sensor when you had it off, or just swap it over to the new one? I have an O-ring for the end of the fitting but not another for the sensor, and ya know they say to never re-use them. I've seen some ridiculous prices for a new sensor. AutoZone wants $121!!
Wow. I have never seen those sensors fail before. Doesn’t mean they can’t though. I would just reuse it and the print for it. Maybe put some fresh oil on the ring before install. I bet that was a great feeling when the line busted loose!
@@AaronHinesAuto Nearly busted my head on the fan in exuberance!! Lol.
I'm changing out the sway bar bushings, links, ball joints and bushings in UCAs and LCAs, calipers, rotors and hub assemblies too. My splash shields are nearly rusted through. And I damaged them more using the 8" 1/2" bolt trick to extract the hubs. So I had to place an order for the splash shields bc no one makes aftermarkets that I can find. And while i was already paying the S&H I ordered a new O-ring for the sensor. It was a ridiculous $7 but I'll sleep better with it under the old and still kicking pressure sensor. Keep making the vids. I'll keep watching. And if you're taking suggestions lol...I'd really like to tackle the bearings on the diff half shafts but too much of the work is "off camera" from what I've seen. I wanna see someone hit the half shaft or pull it out w a slide. And I wanna see the oil seal ever so delicately removed. Not really wanting to install new races. Thanks again for showing us we can do some things, not all, but some things to take care of our trucks.
Whats the pt number? Or name of the pt looking to do this job.
Ive gotta 2013 Armada that's leaking is this gonna be the same procedure fir the 5.6? Liter?
Yep. Same engine.
How much did the new line cost from orielys?
Have you changed the low pressure line under power steering resovoir
no i have not. i have replaced the clamps on that hose though. they tend to leak after time and a simple woorn gear clamp fixed it
U had to remove the right fender?
You don’t have to. Put it makes the job a lot easier. The banjo bolt is a lot more accessible
what is up with most nissan videos no one shows the work
Your using transmission fluid?
Nissan manual calls for dextron 3 automatic transmission fluid. It’s very common to use that on power steering systems
@@AaronHinesAuto but is it fine to use other power steering fluid though?
was the steering wheel hard ? or what was going on ??
A bad leak!
Aaron Hines so was the steering super hard ? mines super hard wondering if that's the problem
Whaat bout the battery
I thought it was bad to have your powersteering reservoir open while running the engine.
No it doesn’t hurt anything.
didnt help the bolt was leaking too
Hello, you have Facebook page
64.99 from oreilly auto parts.
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/import-direct-power-steering-5671/suspension---steering-16778/power-steering-16478/steering-hose-assembly-pressure-line-12559/8511739221af/import-direct-power-steering-hose/13401111/5697636
I have a cousin who works at that auto parts company and he helps me buy the parts, because he is an employee they give him a discount and that line came out for $19 dollars 👌👍😁😁😎😎😎
My friend has a leak is that the main hose to change she has a 2005 armada nissan